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I enjoyed it for the first 30 seconds until I heard false information. Then I commented and went elsewhere as I care less for people who don’t know what there talking about. Thank you
The 24v can actually have the front timing cover changed to a 12v one and u can run either the p pump or ve injection pump making it a 24v that flows better and has a manual injection pump still
Came for the comments. They didn't disappoint. I love when people want to hear their decision is the best decision in the history of decisions instead of being objective.
The 5.9 isn't a "light duty" diesel engine. It's a medium duty that was designed for commercial box trucks etc. It's major overkill for a pickup truck & that's exactly why we all love it 😁
Not only medium duty but agricultural as well. Lot of tractors and combines use the 5.9 and turn 140-160 horse out of it and do it reliably for 10-15,000 hours before any major work.
As someone who works a 5.9 24 valve dodge auto 3500 daily, I can say once you have a built trans and a better than stock lift pump, that truck is indestructible. I work it with a large gooseneck trailer loaded down quite often. The truck is beat up, dash flew apart, seat is ripped, etc. but I won’t hesitate to take it on a thousand mile trip towing. I’ve passed a lot of fords, newer GM and Ram trucks stuck on the side of the interstate. 200k+ on the clock and still going strong. Even if it dies I’ll rebuild it cause it’s way cheaper than a new rig with emissions and complicated computers
I bought two 1st gen Cummins Dodges (1990 D350, 5spd Getrag/ 1993 W350, auto) brand new for the farm that are still daily driving to date. This video pretty much sums up my experience with them. Addressed the KDP long ago, put in manual shut off cables eliminating the shut off solenoid, and put in an old style charging system and they've been the roughest riding but most dependible and reliable trucks I've ever owned.
@@jasongaumont5099 The injection pump has a spring loaded manual shut off lever on it and you can attach a cable to in and pull it inside the truck cab to shut off the engine
In my lengthy career (39 years) I have not had the opportunity to work on many Cummins engines until the last couple of years. The bulk of my diesel work has been Navistar/Ford. The last couple of years our fleet has been phasing out the MaxxForce and started using the 6.7 Cummins and the L9 350 Cummims. Our smaller F550s are still using the Ford 6.7 diesels. So far the Cummins have held up remarkably well with the only problem on the 6.7 is a fuel pressure regulator in the end of the common rail that has failed on a couple units. It looks like a little bolt in the end of the rail that costs about $300. You can either remove the rail to change it, however I found its easier to leave the rail in place and take off the EGR valve for access. How did I discover that was the problem? Here is where Cummins beats the others, Cummins has 24 hour technical support! I work a swing shift so this comes in handy at 11:00pm when I am pulling my hair out. Give Cummins a call with the serial number of the engine and they are more than happy to help. Need an engine wiring diagram or want to know any service bulletins on the engine? Go to Cummins Quickserve website and set up a free account; type in the engine serial number and learn everything about the engine you are working on. Download the app and the info will always be with you.
I'll admit the dodge with the manual transmission is the most reliable, you just have to get past the fact that it's the worst riding truck with build quality that rivals China quality and an electrical system that is beyond sub par.
Take a 1995 3500 dually from all brands and I'd park my ass in a dodge seat first I personally think on gravel road the dodge rides best . That being said they are all horrible but remember these trucks were built for work back in the day not trying to ride like a Cadillac. And I'm not trying to start any brand arguments just my opinion from actually driving all 90's brands up my gravel road to get to my property. .02
I alway experienced in dodges every fucing thing in the truck breaks power windows the radio mirror controls seat controls electronic or manual then the front end then the transmission and any sensor and or model in the truck
@@travisvaughan8838 I don't know where you were buying your used trucks from but I have a 1995 12 v manual , 1996 12 v auto , 1998 24 v auto , and a 06 manual trans dodge and honestly they're all pretty good mechanically and electrically. I definitely take care of them but no matter what kind of brand your talking about you either have a new one with a payment or a used one with a auto parts bill .
12V is the BEST diesel engine for a working truck with a 5 speed. Miners in my area have been using them since new, and the only problem - which is not an engine problem - is the rest of the Dodge truck ! The bodies fall apart way way before the engines. Seen many stuffed into late 70's / early 80's Chevys. With a NP205, Dana 44 front, corporate rear no issues for years and years.
Spot on. I could write a book on the 24v dodge. Purchased my 2000 24v new in 1999 for 32k-33k and have spent over 40k in maintenance and part replacements. It's 6 speed and thank goodness it's not an automatic. Now that it's worn out I've just got the issues worked out of it. Had the compression tested and it has nearly new compression so I'm keeping it till the body falls off
You are full of S$%(* if you spent over 40k on maintenance then why the hell did you not see that it was an obvious lemon at spending 10k and you would have got your money back or a new one under the lemon law? No one spends 40k in maintenance on these trucks unless that includes the price of putting all kinds of high performance mods on it too.
I also have a 2000 Dodge 2500 5.9 Cummins 6speed 4x4. Bought it in '02 for 20k. At the time, I was driving a Volvo day-cab semi with a M11 Cummins in it, 600k miles, running strong. I guess you could say I bought a Cummins, more than a Dodge. And no rust!
I miss my 98 12v. It was easy to turn up, it was super reliable, the KDP fell to the passenger side and put a hole in the front cover, giving me perpetual undercoating and rust prevention, it was fuel efficient, and as long as the batteries were up and it had oil in it it would start every single time. The trans was trash. I wanted to put an Allison AT545 transmission behind it with a PTO on it, but life got in the way with serious health issues. Cheers.
@@Turbo-wj9qc There are a quadrillion of them available dirt cheap, and the worst one is better than the Dodge transmissions. I had good luck with mine.
I have an 89 d250 with the automatic tranny. The truck was owned by Cummins and used at thier plant in charleston sc for landscaping. When the company I worked for bought the site they.sold me the truck for 100 bucks just to get rid of it. I've been driving it daily for over 15yrs and it hasn't missed a beat. Love my beat up old truck❤
As a long time owner of an 02 Cummins dodge, I have to say a couple of things about this system. Mine has had a factory in tank pump since new, and it’s always supplied a consistent 13psi measured right at the vp44 Schraeder valve. Second, while the timing and fuel quantity is electronically controlled, it’s still a mechanical/rotary pump, not electronic as the common rail is. Great engine, 465K and never been apart. The truck isn’t anything to write home about though 😂
I kinda wish they would have designed the 12v and 24v like the 855 and n14 with a pt pump and pushrod driven injectors. I understand the injection pumps across the board but the cummins pt system was my favorite to work on
All diesel pumps are mechanically driven for fuel pressure. The timing and metering is "electronically controlled", unlike the P-pump where it is strictly mechanical.
I have a 97 HD 2500 4X4 manual trans. It has over 355,000 miles on it and still going strong. The best engine that I have ever had. The engines is going to get some upgrades and will help in the towing my toyhauler over the Oregon hills. 😀
Got a 2001 one ton dodge with the 53 block. It's at 280k miles and still going strong. I've had it for about a year and the only problem I've had was the ac compressor clutch seized and sheared the belt. It's a tough truck, but those 47re's are iffy
As long as you don't beat the piss out of them you'll be just fine!! Mines only got 110k but never have engine problems. Every time I've had it break down it's always sensors. Dang electronics!
@@ks_1111 a lot of the hype comes from the competition/hot rodding side of things. The stock short block is leagues ahead of power stroke and duramax. Not to mention they’re easy to work on.
In 1989 the 5.9 BT was the highest tech engine available for three quarter and one ton trucks. The biggest problem with early Dodges was the rusting out of the cab....particularly the roof area. Mechanically the 5.9 is nearly indestructible....but they will commit suicide ( KDP syndrome). I've operated 12 v and 24 v and I have had almost no trouble other than the 47RE transmission slipping in 2nd under high load.
I have driven many dodge Cummins trucks fro 94 and up (my previous employer bought them from 94-2006) and I’ve had many lifter and/or injector pumps fail. This brought back those memories. I recently acquired a 1998 2500 with the 12 valve and that’s when I learned about the KDP. I will be having that repair down very soon as the rest of the truck is in great condition with over 300k miles! Excellent video!
With that many miles the odds are that the kdp has already been fixed by a previous owner but better be safe then sorry. I’ve got the same exact truck with 317k and still runs like new
Solid list, here are 2 issues I've dealt with and 1 I had fixed before it was a problem: 89-93 VE pumps tended to leak at one of the seals after several years of low sulphur diesel. Most of them were probably fixed by the mid 2000s. 94-98 P-pump engine not shutting off or turning on because the shut off solenoid fell apart. 94-2003 5 spd manual 5th gear nut backing/falling off.
12:44 I beg to differ. I prefer the DT360. Both the 6BT and DT360 are mechanical, I6, 5.9L engines but the DT360 makes the same power, has better mileage, has an easier start-up, has no KDP, and is more robust.
I bought mine new in the Summer of '98. The only thing that was a constant headache was the lift pumps. I finally bit the bullet and put in a quality pump and never had another problem. I now have 200k on it and it is running like a top.
I have an '02 with 75K miles on it (lots of off-road, heat-cycling etc. living in the mountains). Plastic stuff starting to break due to being old and brittle. I forget what one part was called, made all my oil dump out on the highway. Only other time my truck's let me down, was a cracked fuel-filter housing causing the fuel pump to suck air, luckily not killing it. Total parts cost around $25. Best to replace these before they break. I kicked it in the tires both times, "You're supposed to *do* the towing!" Both happened this year.
He's still at it working from a home shop and has a new YT channel, "Richard & Teresa Educational Transmission Videos." That man knows his transmissions!
you got one thing wrong the 47 and 48 RE transmissions Aren’t the best from factory but they’re the best platform for aftermarket mods and can handle over 3000 hp
All inline 6 cylinder engines have a longer rod ratio. Longer rod ratio frees up power and lasts longer. One more main cap makes the block holding crank in stronger and in the same year about the same torque and horsepower but stronger. But the Cummins 5.9 the most dependable and most durable overall.
Cummins 5.9s are placed in fords (new & upgrades/ f-ummins), chevys, busses, boats, ships tractors ect. There's a reason for that. My 06 had 540,000+ miles on it. Sold it to a friend and he has so far put another 120,000+ miles on it. Fuel filtration and a good in tank pump is all they need. I did have the trans rebuild, but that's because i ran a tuner. Fast, high torque beast!
And they're a 12v. It's because their cheap and easy to do the swap. Fuel, power and you're set. Don't see common rail 5.9L in a bunch either. There's a reason for that too.
Look, the diesel debate will go on ad nauseum. Rightly so, but where the argument ends in favor of Cummins, is when you have to wrench on 'em, it sold me for sure. Even the newer trucks seem doable. Love the 7.3, don't wanna wrench on them. Something about that straight six. I called my '02 the "Army truck".
I am driving my 2006 5.9l . It currently has 585,000 miles and never had any issues with the cummins . I only have had issues with the junk transmission replaced 5 times.
Point is cummisn 12 valve and 24 valve are reliable as f If you want more reliability put a fast fuel system Autos stock are okay but if you want power build a auto or use a manual nv4500 or nv5600 and use a good clutch 👍🏻 cummins wins all day every day
Owned both a '99 with the 12V, and an 05 with the common rail. Since my '99 left me in the desert 100 miles from home despite installing an aftermarket lift pump, I can't say the 12V was the best. Also had to replace the Bosch FI pump and rebuild the transmission. The '05 with the common rail was flawless.
Your videos keep getting better and better man. Keep up the great work. Im a cummins guy threw and threw but this was very informative for folks that may not know these things!
I haven't seen a 1st gen Ram in years, and only see a handful of 2nd gen Ram trucks around which are rotted almost to death. I see GMT-400s around daily, still as work trucks. Most are rusted, but a few decent survivors. I see OBS Fords very frequently, rusted. 7.3 Super Dutys are still used by almost every landscaping company, roofer, and even tow trucks around here. The Cummins is a great great motor, but the trucks they put them in, just dont last (at least in the rust belt here in WI).
Asife from the KDP, the crankshaft position sensor fails at once at around 300k miles. Minor in comariaon. The way to tell it failed is that the RPM needle stays at zero while the engine is running. The alternator stops charging (without warning light), and the auto transmission acts up. Best to replace it preventatively., especially ahead of a road trip. Or at least have a new spare on hand, it's a relatively easy procedure.
I,have a 2005 F350 dually with the 6.0l which so far has a Unicorn I've towed heavy with it and so far with the factory torque to yield head bolts they have held, even after adding a BD Diesel boost fooler so it will keep on boosting past the 26 psi factory limit. Not saying that it hasn't had issues but they have just been glowplugs and various Injectors. I,keep up on my fluids and filter Maintenance, I've installed a Misimoto radiator and upgraded the Intercooled also and coolant filtration and changed the transmission pan to the later model to get the better filtration from the so called Rock catcher filter on the early year models. I,have a friend who had the 6.4 and he did a Cummins swap to a 5.9 and he loves it now.
One thing to note is that it is not only about the psi that the lift pump is supplying, its about volume. In stock trim the weak lift pump is only pushing X amount of volume. Once you upgrade to say an Air Dog and do it right which would be by bypassing the factory filter housing and having half inch lines from the air dog straight to the VP then you not only increase psi by alot but you also increase volume by alot.
The 53 blocks found their way into the industrial and commercial engines, too. I drove a 1999 Freightliner FS-65 school bus with a 24v cummins that cracked exactly the way you described...passenger's side, under the freeze plugs.
I researched these trucks before I bought my 2001. First mod was gauges and a FASS pump. As soon as I got the power itch the trans was built to handle it before it had a chance to fail. I’m adding compounds this summer so I think I’ll be close to the limit of the built trans.
Once adressed with a simple shift kit 47 48re Transmission are known to be one of the strongest Transmission ever built. Still to this day th400 727 4l80 48re are the go trans if your making any type of power. So they can't be that bad of a design in my opinion. BTW I have a 53 block with a vp44 making close to a 4 digit hp number.
There's no doubt 12v 5spd stock is the most reliable cheapest to fix diesel in a American truck. Biggest issue I've had is injector pump leak bcuz of low sulphur fuel.
Everybody forgets about the 7.3 idis… arguably more reliable than a 5.9l.. i know of multiple and have one thats got a turbo kit on it from day one and is still kicking at over 600 thousand miles.. 15 psi through a motor that was factory na with a a compression ratio north of 21:1… not to mention the 24 mpg i get in my dually idi
I would say the weak link is water pumps. They are easy to change but have always failed on me when I am out of town. 4 water pumps in 600 000 KM. At 650 000 KM still on the original 48re automatic transmission. I think the transmission does not last for some is because of operator error or abuse. Just look at how some jar heads drive and you will understand.
I have a ram 3500 2004. And the motor has been rebuilt recently. My mechanic is a 25 year friend. Ownes his own family ran shop. In business since 1960. And I take all my cars and trucks to him. And without fail. Every trip to his shop. There's a Ford truck there with some kind of diesel engine problem. Now I've seen Chey's there and Dodges there. But, for every Chevy or Dodge. There's three Fords. When I was looking for a diesel truck. He told me. Buy a Chevy or Dodge. But, don't bring me another damn Ford to work on. Most all diesel trucks require work at some point. Most are worked hard. Maintenance is tough due to the fact they are worked everyday. And people just don't feel they have time to stop to take of the truck properly. Yeah I get it. No maintenance will cost you more in repairs. I get it. But, the fact remains. Most businesses run that chance.
I always find it funny when people bad-mouth the Chrysler autos up to the last 48re's in '07. Reality is: if built properly, under normal driving conditions, they are probably the most reliable option. Hence an entire aftermarket segment for 48re swaps. In my belief, the biggest contribution to their poor reputation is the "tuner" type owners, or "hot-shot" guys, that just build waaaay to much power in to the engines. And, neglect the needed upgrades to the tranny to hold all that power. Because, there is no tactile performance advantage from the tranny upgrades. So, they don't want to spend the money! It takes serious coin to build a reliable transmission. The Chrysler tranny, 518 all the way through 48re, can be built to hold serious power reliably. I know this because I've done it. But it takes a meticulous build, zero-compromise cooling, and diligent maintenance.
The cummins 5.9L 12v fandom is insane. I was looking for a 5.9L 12v engine to build and swap into my RV. Why? The old dodge 440ci V8 getting 4 MPG trying to fling a small house down the road is simply not something I want to feed. I've done some digging and found that folks who have done the 5.9L 12v swap ar seeing teens in mpg. Thats miles away from the 440ci. Getting back to the 5.9L 12v fandom issue while looking for one. I was searching the internet and found a 280K mile 5.9L 12v with no accessories, no turbo, for $1500. It was the only one I found so far. So I kept reading until towards the end, very last sentence, where the owner says that it threw a rod and has a hole in the block... $1500 for a stripped down engine with a hole blown in the block? You're batshit crazy... I then found a completely disassembled engine with no injection pump, no turbo, no exhaust manifold, and no connecting rods for $2000? Sorry, that's just nuts. I'm likely going with the 7.3L powerstroke v8, it'll fit better, weigh less than the 5.9L 12v and the 7.3 makes more power and has the 4R100 which is a FAR better transmission. Oh and it's affordable.
It does not matter what you are talking about. From grades of soils, to trucks, hell, even our mums. It is better to just say it how it is. So great respectable work you have done here. So I do have 2 questionatos', What year(s) are likely to have a 53 block? And secondly, I replaced my transduce/solenoid a couple of weeks ago. Yet still it would not shift out of 2nd. So......... I figured i F-ed something up. Pulled it all off, everything looked, but transducer did sit the same. So I and ended up reinstalling old transducer, kept new solenoid. And what do you know it elfin worked, was fairy happy (no fairy HAHA-Gump). A week later drove to San Diego from eastern WA, all swell…. Until. ....wah waaaahhhhhhhh. Started doing it again. Yep, I am stuck in second, for another minute. Was thinking to get the GM solenoid doohickey. Well, I will, either way. But does anyone have any thoughts (even if you are reading this post, 3 years from this night)? Those trolling or donating a well deserved slight, Smart ass or derogatory comment. Great, as long as it is funny. Otherwise, why are we reading it. Having a little fun. But, seriously, Thank you so much for anyone giving me your time here. because you could bet doing anything else. So yeah, really. 😊 🙏
I ran vp44 in 12v cummins for 4 years on waste vegetable oil, aircon oil, transformer oil in a 6500kgs truck. Vp pump is solid, the model with no electronics.
I Bought a 2001 dodge 5.9 with the 5 speed, I noticed that it did not ride rough when loaded or hooked to a trailer. I made clamps for both ends of the overload springs with just a 1/2 inch x 2 inch piece of flat bar and pulled it down with a bolt on each end, that really improved the ride. The first thing I did was install a gauge to watch the pressure from the lift pump and a warning light that came on anytime it went below 10psi. The only problem I ever had was a oil pressure censer that cost $53 from emay. After that I installed a oil pressure gauge. I had to change both battery's when it was 10 years and 3 months due to one of them leaking acid.
all i have to say about this for the 'light duty' pickup market: get yourself a roller and a 4-71 detroit with a turbo. stick ....naturally. the 66 f100 with a 4-71 was a good choice for me. build time for me? a bit over 150 hours. NOT including paint. that's another matter. :-)
5.9 liter vs PowerStroke & Duramax. No contest. Had an 89 and a 2000, never had a problem w/ the core engine. The VP-44 was fixed w/ a Glacier Diesel lift pump kit.
excellent video! and to throw a little more shade towards the ep@ , i recommend adding a fuel additive to increase fuel lubricity to diesel engines designed before the introduction of Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel. the Bosch ppumps, ve's and vp44's love good slick slippery diesel imo
Overrated? Sorry man, I've owned a lot of the others, and had to drive the rest in my industry. I own a Cummins because of their reliability, efficiency and ease of maintenance compared to a V8 motor. You're inclined to feel the way you do, but I'll stick with my Cummins, and I don't care what it's in....a native Dodge, a Ford or even a GM, I make similar power, get better MPG's and don't have all the extra crap. Ford's haven't been good since the 7.3 GM's Duramax is great until it breaks, then you find other issues digging in to fix the one. I've pretty well accepted the issues of my Dodge as acceptable considering how much down time I do not have.
Million mile (12V) engine that gets 20MPG (in 1 ton chassis empty with 12v P7100) Where you can get to every part of the engine with ease and has the least expensive parts of any diesel I've ever worked on. For a diesel junkie, this is my favorite diesel pickup truck engine.
2001 140000 miles gone thru 5 vp44 pumps. Replaced the lift pump with an aftermarket. Vp44 is trash. 2003 model just passed 450000 miles no issues. 2003 also has a 48re.
One more thing .... a little bolt that is holding the air heater can loose and then it will go into a piston. The last cylinder is too tight and will scratch cylinder with overheating. But hell of a good one and good for at least halve a million miles.
My 2003 had a 47re. My brother's very late 2003 had the 47re . In 2003 you had to get the high output witch had the 48re . All California trucks in 2003 had the 47re because you could only get a 235 hp .to get the 48re you had to buy out of state and get the high output and weight 6 months before you could register it in California.
2002 3500 4x4. 290k pulling a 5er 43' toyhauler. Fass 150 HD , super B turbo , 4" exhaust , trans has a non stock converter and valve body upgrade its been rock solid this far. Might get a quadzilla and put a full built transmission soon.
I’ve got an 07 5.9 with the g56 manual transmission. Doesn’t leak a drop of oil, and is relatively quiet for a diesel truck. Granted it’s only got 100k on it. The manual commonrail trucks are the way to go.
Please do a review of the 99-2003 Navistar 7.3 and the costs to maintain it compared to a 94-98 12 valve Cummins. I have both and the 7.3 is plagued with problems, ebps, icp, cam position sensor failure, exhaust back pressure tube plugs up with soot, injector seals failing, injector cups cracking, oil cooler failure, leaks, oil or fuel in the coolant, valve cover harness failure, ebp valve sticking, leaking oil. The list goes on and on. My 96 12 valve has been trouble free for the last 15 yrs, it has the NV4500 and gets 25 mpg hwy. It cost me $3000 in 2008. First thing I did to it was fix the KDP and bumped up the timing to 15.5. My Ford has a good automatic trans but it gets about 13 mpg. I am not sure I can afford to keep the Ford.
My 23 year old 3500 nv5600 truck is still going strong. And its in a lot better shape than a lot of other trucks from the same year. Sure, it needed some things along the way, and ive hopped it up a bit. But what 23 year old truck doesnt need some repairs and maintenance along the way?
I was given a 95 dodge with the cummins. First thing I did was take care of kdp KDP issue. Also found and replaced a failed water pump. All the plastic is pretty much disintegrating but damm I like the engine.
Have a 94' 3500 scdrw auto. Dash harness fried with 65k miles on it. Then the headlights got gremlins nothing fixed em and had to run separate wiring and switch for em. P pump went out at 80k miles had to replace with all injectors. The electrical feedback running into 47re causing o/d to kick in and out. Front end needs to be rebuilt often. The kdp. Have a 22' ccsb 2500 Cummins too now hopefully it will hold up better in the long run.
I actually have one! 1978 Dodge D-200 with the 6DR5 in it. They were amazing on fuel mileage but severally underpowered. Cool conversation piece though!
If you guys enjoyed the video, please SMASH THAT LIKE BUTTON. It helps the channel out a huge amount and helps UA-cam put the video in front of more people. Thanks for watching 😬
Clickbait you talking out your ass
I enjoyed it for the first 30 seconds until I heard false information. Then I commented and went elsewhere as I care less for people who don’t know what there talking about. Thank you
The 24v can actually have the front timing cover changed to a 12v one and u can run either the p pump or ve injection pump making it a 24v that flows better and has a manual injection pump still
Came for the comments. They didn't disappoint. I love when people want to hear their decision is the best decision in the history of decisions instead of being objective.
The 5.9 isn't a "light duty" diesel engine. It's a medium duty that was designed for commercial box trucks etc. It's major overkill for a pickup truck & that's exactly why we all love it 😁
same with the original 7.3 powerstroke as well as the Duramax
Tractors as well
It's exactly what you want for pulling horse trailers, big fifth wheel RVs etc. A medium duty pickup
Love my 2nd gen Cummins…
@@TAShannon1The 5.9 was rated for a 68,000 gvwr truck I don't think ford or the GM were
Considering mine made it over 1,266,289 miles before I rebuilt it! Along with that decent fuel milage pulls everything I need parts are easy to get!
The Cummins 5.9 and 6.7's are true medium duty diesels. The internals are much stouter than the Powerstrokes or Duramax's.
Not only medium duty but agricultural as well. Lot of tractors and combines use the 5.9 and turn 140-160 horse out of it and do it reliably for 10-15,000 hours before any major work.
Good news for my 95 12 valve with 250 000 miles and very , very little rust.
@@glennbrooks3449 I’ll take it off your hands for $25…. That all I got to offer
What grade of oil.did you use in it? That's rge highest mileage I've heard of yet!
As someone who works a 5.9 24 valve dodge auto 3500 daily, I can say once you have a built trans and a better than stock lift pump, that truck is indestructible. I work it with a large gooseneck trailer loaded down quite often. The truck is beat up, dash flew apart, seat is ripped, etc. but I won’t hesitate to take it on a thousand mile trip towing. I’ve passed a lot of fords, newer GM and Ram trucks stuck on the side of the interstate. 200k+ on the clock and still going strong. Even if it dies I’ll rebuild it cause it’s way cheaper than a new rig with emissions and complicated computers
I'm serious considering putting a 1990 gen1 5.9 12v on a 5-speed powerplant in my 1967 Chevy C20 With an intercoold compound trouble
Well said, I’ll never trade my 2nd gen Cummins…
I bought two 1st gen Cummins Dodges (1990 D350, 5spd Getrag/ 1993 W350, auto) brand new for the farm that are still daily driving to date. This video pretty much sums up my experience with them. Addressed the KDP long ago, put in manual shut off cables eliminating the shut off solenoid, and put in an old style charging system and they've been the roughest riding but most dependible and reliable trucks I've ever owned.
Best trucl motor option on planet earth. Thats why people that actually work for aliving use them
What’s the shut off cable
@@jasongaumont5099 The injection pump has a spring loaded manual shut off lever on it and you can attach a cable to in and pull it inside the truck cab to shut off the engine
Roughest riding ? I owned a 79 GMC 3/4 ton camper special that was far rougher a ride than my uncle's gen one Cummins.
In my lengthy career (39 years) I have not had the opportunity to work on many Cummins engines until the last couple of years. The bulk of my diesel work has been Navistar/Ford. The last couple of years our fleet has been phasing out the MaxxForce and started using the 6.7 Cummins and the L9 350 Cummims. Our smaller F550s are still using the Ford 6.7 diesels.
So far the Cummins have held up remarkably well with the only problem on the 6.7 is a fuel pressure regulator in the end of the common rail that has failed on a couple units. It looks like a little bolt in the end of the rail that costs about $300. You can either remove the rail to change it, however I found its easier to leave the rail in place and take off the EGR valve for access.
How did I discover that was the problem? Here is where Cummins beats the others, Cummins has 24 hour technical support! I work a swing shift so this comes in handy at 11:00pm when I am pulling my hair out. Give Cummins a call with the serial number of the engine and they are more than happy to help. Need an engine wiring diagram or want to know any service bulletins on the engine? Go to Cummins Quickserve website and set up a free account; type in the engine serial number and learn everything about the engine you are working on. Download the app and the info will always be with you.
Thank you. Wonder if this would help for a 98
THAT'S BRILL SIR
A GOOD DEAL 👍👌
@@abraxaseyes87 yap sure will
Still have 89 with cummins,fixed dowel pin issue, 3 voltage regulators, ran ground wire to negative terminal 3 water pumps. Still runs.
In your opinion, what's the most amazing diesel you can fit into a Rover Defender?
I'll admit the dodge with the manual transmission is the most reliable, you just have to get past the fact that it's the worst riding truck with build quality that rivals China quality and an electrical system that is beyond sub par.
What electrical system jk
Take a 1995 3500 dually from all brands and I'd park my ass in a dodge seat first I personally think on gravel road the dodge rides best . That being said they are all horrible but remember these trucks were built for work back in the day not trying to ride like a Cadillac. And I'm not trying to start any brand arguments just my opinion from actually driving all 90's brands up my gravel road to get to my property. .02
I alway experienced in dodges every fucing thing in the truck breaks power windows the radio mirror controls seat controls electronic or manual then the front end then the transmission and any sensor and or model in the truck
@@travisvaughan8838 I don't know where you were buying your used trucks from but I have a 1995 12 v manual , 1996 12 v auto , 1998 24 v auto , and a 06 manual trans dodge and honestly they're all pretty good mechanically and electrically. I definitely take care of them but no matter what kind of brand your talking about you either have a new one with a payment or a used one with a auto parts bill .
@@M-FE they have power windows that still work??
12V is the BEST diesel engine for a working truck with a 5 speed. Miners in my area have been using them since new, and the only problem - which is not an engine problem - is the rest of the Dodge truck ! The bodies fall apart way way before the engines. Seen many stuffed into late 70's / early 80's Chevys. With a NP205, Dana 44 front, corporate rear no issues for years and years.
I'm doing that swap myself right now. 12 valve P-pump and NV4500 into a 1983 Chevy K30.
IT'S TRUE HELL FRIEGHT LINER USED TGE 5.9 IN THE FL70 BOX TRUCKS AND THEY GO N GO NGO
HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF MILES
Kdp “killer dowell pin”
Rather have a 7.3
@@mdtransmissionspecialties lol big ass motor with such little power
Tons of these trucks are still on the road, unlike most vehicles of the same year
‘97 12valve…deleted fss, fuel heater element,wastegate feed. Tabbed kdp, adjustable ofv, 4”straight pipe, fuel pressure, exhaust temp, boost and transmission temperature gages. Lockup switch…All mechanical reliability…the BOSS!😮😅
Spot on. I could write a book on the 24v dodge. Purchased my 2000 24v new in 1999 for 32k-33k and have spent over 40k in maintenance and part replacements. It's 6 speed and thank goodness it's not an automatic. Now that it's worn out I've just got the issues worked out of it. Had the compression tested and it has nearly new compression so I'm keeping it till the body falls off
Shouldn't be long. If anybody's even just put salt on their fries, or sweat while in your truck, it's probably rusting away.
You are full of S$%(* if you spent over 40k on maintenance then why the hell did you not see that it was an obvious lemon at spending 10k and you would have got your money back or a new one under the lemon law? No one spends 40k in maintenance on these trucks unless that includes the price of putting all kinds of high performance mods on it too.
I also have a 2000 Dodge 2500 5.9 Cummins 6speed 4x4. Bought it in '02 for 20k. At the time, I was driving a Volvo day-cab semi with a M11 Cummins in it, 600k miles, running strong. I guess you could say I bought a Cummins, more than a Dodge. And no rust!
I miss my 98 12v. It was easy to turn up, it was super reliable, the KDP fell to the passenger side and put a hole in the front cover, giving me perpetual undercoating and rust prevention, it was fuel efficient, and as long as the batteries were up and it had oil in it it would start every single time. The trans was trash. I wanted to put an Allison AT545 transmission behind it with a PTO on it, but life got in the way with serious health issues. Cheers.
Dude, you let a 98 12v go!😳😳😳😭😭😭😭. Those are pulling BIG money now! Sorry that happened to you!
Kdp put a hole in my timing case to this comment made me feel a lil bit better about it haha
You got lucky, at545 are terrible.
@@Turbo-wj9qc There are a quadrillion of them available dirt cheap, and the worst one is better than the Dodge transmissions. I had good luck with mine.
hope ya get better mate
I have an 89 d250 with the automatic tranny. The truck was owned by Cummins and used at thier plant in charleston sc for landscaping. When the company I worked for bought the site they.sold me the truck for 100 bucks just to get rid of it. I've been driving it daily for over 15yrs and it hasn't missed a beat. Love my beat up old truck❤
As a long time owner of an 02 Cummins dodge, I have to say a couple of things about this system. Mine has had a factory in tank pump since new, and it’s always supplied a consistent 13psi measured right at the vp44 Schraeder valve. Second, while the timing and fuel quantity is electronically controlled, it’s still a mechanical/rotary pump, not electronic as the common rail is. Great engine, 465K and never been apart. The truck isn’t anything to write home about though 😂
I kinda wish they would have designed the 12v and 24v like the 855 and n14 with a pt pump and pushrod driven injectors. I understand the injection pumps across the board but the cummins pt system was my favorite to work on
you're lucky, my 99 ate 4 electronic fuel pumps... I sold it and went back to a 12 valve with the P pump.
All diesel pumps are mechanically driven for fuel pressure. The timing and metering is "electronically controlled", unlike the P-pump where it is strictly mechanical.
This is the kind of video that summarize 10 hours of research on internet, thanks again
I have a 97 HD 2500 4X4 manual trans. It has over 355,000 miles on it and still going strong. The best engine that I have ever had. The engines is going to get some upgrades and will help in the towing my toyhauler over the Oregon hills. 😀
I love my 12 valve....so reliable.
I love the 12v and 24v Cummins.
Got a 2001 one ton dodge with the 53 block. It's at 280k miles and still going strong. I've had it for about a year and the only problem I've had was the ac compressor clutch seized and sheared the belt. It's a tough truck, but those 47re's are iffy
Iffy until built properly.
Shoot, I might do an Allison swap.
My 53 block has 430k still going
My 53 has 500k miles
As long as you don't beat the piss out of them you'll be just fine!! Mines only got 110k but never have engine problems. Every time I've had it break down it's always sensors. Dang electronics!
I have both Cummings and powerstrokes in my fleet and the dodges win hands down on maintenance and dependability
5.9 is not overrated I believe its legit the perfect engine for anything that can fit it all the way up to a school bus
No, it is highly overrated. Its a good engine, but far overhyped
@@ks_1111 it's underrated that's why they so cheap still
And second it's is the best engine so Deserves to be showed off
@@bigpapi1184 whatever drugs you're smoking to think they're cheap. Pass me some....
@@ks_1111 lmao well 2500 dollars for a 12 valve is cheap imo especially for what they are capable of
@@ks_1111 a lot of the hype comes from the competition/hot rodding side of things. The stock short block is leagues ahead of power stroke and duramax. Not to mention they’re easy to work on.
In 1989 the 5.9 BT was the highest tech engine available for three quarter and one ton trucks. The biggest problem with early Dodges was the rusting out of the cab....particularly the roof area. Mechanically the 5.9 is nearly indestructible....but they will commit suicide ( KDP syndrome). I've operated 12 v and 24 v and I have had almost no trouble other than the 47RE transmission slipping in 2nd under high load.
And the rockers
I have driven many dodge Cummins trucks fro 94 and up (my previous employer bought them from 94-2006) and I’ve had many lifter and/or injector pumps fail. This brought back those memories. I recently acquired a 1998 2500 with the 12 valve and that’s when I learned about the KDP. I will be having that repair down very soon as the rest of the truck is in great condition with over 300k miles! Excellent video!
With that many miles the odds are that the kdp has already been fixed by a previous owner but better be safe then sorry. I’ve got the same exact truck with 317k and still runs like new
Solid list, here are 2 issues I've dealt with and 1 I had fixed before it was a problem:
89-93 VE pumps tended to leak at one of the seals after several years of low sulphur diesel. Most of them were probably fixed by the mid 2000s.
94-98 P-pump engine not shutting off or turning on because the shut off solenoid fell apart.
94-2003 5 spd manual 5th gear nut backing/falling off.
YEP JUST BOUGHT AN 1999 4X4 WITH THAT SILLY ISSUE BUT I GOT THE THING FOR 3K
SO THAT'S A GOOD DEAL I WOULD THINK
GOTTA FIX 5TH
@@arthurn9237 WHY ARE WE YELLING?
@@seer1388 Hit mute
Ive got a 12 and 24. Love them both. My 24 is entirely mechanical and has a manual transmission.
Dodge and Cummins way to go
12:44 I beg to differ. I prefer the DT360. Both the 6BT and DT360 are mechanical, I6, 5.9L engines but the DT360 makes the same power, has better mileage, has an easier start-up, has no KDP, and is more robust.
I bought mine new in the Summer of '98. The only thing that was a constant headache was the lift pumps. I finally bit the bullet and put in a quality pump and never had another problem. I now have 200k on it and it is running like a top.
I have an '02 with 75K miles on it (lots of off-road, heat-cycling etc. living in the mountains). Plastic stuff starting to break due to being old and brittle. I forget what one part was called, made all my oil dump out on the highway. Only other time my truck's let me down, was a cracked fuel-filter housing causing the fuel pump to suck air, luckily not killing it. Total parts cost around $25. Best to replace these before they break. I kicked it in the tires both times, "You're supposed to *do* the towing!" Both happened this year.
The only bad problem with the vp44 is the lift pump. If you update the lift pump the VP is actually a great pump for towing and daily driving.
10:36!!! Congratulations Richard from Precision Transmission out of Amarillo TX!! You made it on another man's UA-cam video!!! Hell Yeah!!!!
He's still at it working from a home shop and has a new YT channel, "Richard & Teresa Educational Transmission Videos." That man knows his transmissions!
It’s good to see Richard wearing gloves
you got one thing wrong the 47 and 48 RE transmissions Aren’t the best from factory but they’re the best platform for aftermarket mods and can handle over 3000 hp
All inline 6 cylinder engines have a longer rod ratio. Longer rod ratio frees up power and lasts longer. One more main cap makes the block holding crank in stronger and in the same year about the same torque and horsepower but stronger. But the Cummins 5.9 the most dependable and most durable overall.
Cummins 5.9s are placed in fords (new & upgrades/ f-ummins), chevys, busses, boats, ships tractors ect. There's a reason for that. My 06 had 540,000+ miles on it. Sold it to a friend and he has so far put another 120,000+ miles on it. Fuel filtration and a good in tank pump is all they need. I did have the trans rebuild, but that's because i ran a tuner. Fast, high torque beast!
And they're a 12v. It's because their cheap and easy to do the swap. Fuel, power and you're set. Don't see common rail 5.9L in a bunch either. There's a reason for that too.
Look, the diesel debate will go on ad nauseum. Rightly so, but where the argument ends in favor of Cummins, is when you have to wrench on 'em, it sold me for sure. Even the newer trucks seem doable. Love the 7.3, don't wanna wrench on them. Something about that straight six. I called my '02 the "Army truck".
I am driving my 2006 5.9l . It currently has 585,000 miles and never had any issues with the cummins . I only have had issues with the junk transmission replaced 5 times.
Point is cummisn 12 valve and 24 valve are reliable as f
If you want more reliability put a fast fuel system
Autos stock are okay but if you want power build a auto or use a manual nv4500 or nv5600 and use a good clutch 👍🏻 cummins wins all day every day
Loved my 06 mega cab, had compounds on it and it never skipped a beat!!
Had a 24v 6.7 Cummins in a 40-ft motor home with 6-spd Allison transmission. Never had a lick of problems with it. 38,000 miles from new.
Owned both a '99 with the 12V, and an 05 with the common rail. Since my '99 left me in the desert 100 miles from home despite installing an aftermarket lift pump, I can't say the 12V was the best. Also had to replace the Bosch FI pump and rebuild the transmission. The '05 with the common rail was flawless.
1999 had a 24 valve.
@@robertsawa3407 You're right. My bad.
I have an 05 5.9 with a G56 ...it's been great at 360k
That dual mass flywheel was sent from the devil
98.5 went to 24 valve.
Your videos keep getting better and better man. Keep up the great work. Im a cummins guy threw and threw but this was very informative for folks that may not know these things!
Thank you!
Threw and threw
If you observe the number of first and second generation Cummins Powered Dodge trucks still on the road the number speaks for itself.
My 7.3 I think is tougher
So happy for you.
I hardly ever see the 2nd Gen Dodge Rams on the Road, I see more GMT400s on the road even compared to the Fords of that Gen, same with GMT800s.
I haven't seen a 1st gen Ram in years, and only see a handful of 2nd gen Ram trucks around which are rotted almost to death.
I see GMT-400s around daily, still as work trucks. Most are rusted, but a few decent survivors.
I see OBS Fords very frequently, rusted. 7.3 Super Dutys are still used by almost every landscaping company, roofer, and even tow trucks around here.
The Cummins is a great great motor, but the trucks they put them in, just dont last (at least in the rust belt here in WI).
Asife from the KDP, the crankshaft position sensor fails at once at around 300k miles. Minor in comariaon. The way to tell it failed is that the RPM needle stays at zero while the engine is running. The alternator stops charging (without warning light), and the auto transmission acts up. Best to replace it preventatively., especially ahead of a road trip. Or at least have a new spare on hand, it's a relatively easy procedure.
I,have a 2005 F350 dually with the 6.0l which so far has a Unicorn I've towed heavy with it and so far with the factory torque to yield head bolts they have held, even after adding a BD Diesel boost fooler so it will keep on boosting past the 26 psi factory limit. Not saying that it hasn't had issues but they have just been glowplugs and various Injectors. I,keep up on my fluids and filter Maintenance, I've installed a Misimoto radiator and upgraded the Intercooled also and coolant filtration and changed the transmission pan to the later model to get the better filtration from the so called Rock catcher filter on the early year models. I,have a friend who had the 6.4 and he did a Cummins swap to a 5.9 and he loves it now.
I have a 2002 with 24valve 5.9. Love the truck and engine.
The 5.9 12v or 24v can be made to haul torque or race and beat any similar yr GM or ford for much less… & beat most today too…
One thing to note is that it is not only about the psi that the lift pump is supplying, its about volume. In stock trim the weak lift pump is only pushing X amount of volume. Once you upgrade to say an Air Dog and do it right which would be by bypassing the factory filter housing and having half inch lines from the air dog straight to the VP then you not only increase psi by alot but you also increase volume by alot.
The 53 blocks found their way into the industrial and commercial engines, too. I drove a 1999 Freightliner FS-65 school bus with a 24v cummins that cracked exactly the way you described...passenger's side, under the freeze plugs.
53*
@Seb318 thank you
I just headstudded,rebuild kit,all billet covers and cranked it up 12v is the beast
cool,story,bro,
5.9 12 valve had the beemer tailgater repellent feature.
I loved the 6BT 300hp application in my sport fishing boat, no issues for more than 16 years
I researched these trucks before I bought my 2001. First mod was gauges and a FASS pump. As soon as I got the power itch the trans was built to handle it before it had a chance to fail. I’m adding compounds this summer so I think I’ll be close to the limit of the built trans.
After this lecture .... I'm all in and will get one ASAP
Once adressed with a simple shift kit 47 48re Transmission are known to be one of the strongest Transmission ever built. Still to this day th400 727 4l80 48re are the go trans if your making any type of power. So they can't be that bad of a design in my opinion. BTW I have a 53 block with a vp44 making close to a 4 digit hp number.
There's no doubt 12v 5spd stock is the most reliable cheapest to fix diesel in a American truck. Biggest issue I've had is injector pump leak bcuz of low sulphur fuel.
Everybody forgets about the 7.3 idis… arguably more reliable than a 5.9l.. i know of multiple and have one thats got a turbo kit on it from day one and is still kicking at over 600 thousand miles.. 15 psi through a motor that was factory na with a a compression ratio north of 21:1… not to mention the 24 mpg i get in my dually idi
I just found this channel and went through a few videos and can tell this is a Pro-GM channel lol
Agreed! I know a Duramax owner who said his 2011 has been in the shop 11 times and it's a 2011 year model.
Im rockin 500k on my ol 12 valve! I cranked up the line pressure on my 47rh and replaced some parts with billet parts and I've been good for years!
You are right on all counts. VP44, lift pump and 47E. Been there, done that.
I would say the weak link is water pumps. They are easy to change but have always failed on me when I am out of town. 4 water pumps in 600 000 KM. At 650 000 KM still on the original 48re automatic transmission. I think the transmission does not last for some is because of operator error or abuse. Just look at how some jar heads drive and you will understand.
I have a ram 3500 2004. And the motor has been rebuilt recently. My mechanic is a 25 year friend. Ownes his own family ran shop. In business since 1960. And I take all my cars and trucks to him. And without fail. Every trip to his shop. There's a Ford truck there with some kind of diesel engine problem. Now I've seen Chey's there and Dodges there. But, for every Chevy or Dodge. There's three Fords. When I was looking for a diesel truck. He told me. Buy a Chevy or Dodge. But, don't bring me another damn Ford to work on. Most all diesel trucks require work at some point. Most are worked hard. Maintenance is tough due to the fact they are worked everyday. And people just don't feel they have time to stop to take of the truck properly. Yeah I get it. No maintenance will cost you more in repairs. I get it. But, the fact remains. Most businesses run that chance.
My poor weak 48RE trans in my 2005 Ram 2500 only lasted 465,000 miles before having to be rebuilt. I'm satisfied. Engine still original at 477,000.
I own a 1997 Dodge 2500 4X4 LB with the 12V Cummins. Still running strong.
I always find it funny when people bad-mouth the Chrysler autos up to the last 48re's in '07. Reality is: if built properly, under normal driving conditions, they are probably the most reliable option. Hence an entire aftermarket segment for 48re swaps. In my belief, the biggest contribution to their poor reputation is the "tuner" type owners, or "hot-shot" guys, that just build waaaay to much power in to the engines. And, neglect the needed upgrades to the tranny to hold all that power. Because, there is no tactile performance advantage from the tranny upgrades. So, they don't want to spend the money! It takes serious coin to build a reliable transmission. The Chrysler tranny, 518 all the way through 48re, can be built to hold serious power reliably. I know this because I've done it. But it takes a meticulous build, zero-compromise cooling, and diligent maintenance.
Yes. You have to build both ends. A guy just can't build one end and not give equal capabilities to the other.👍🏻
The cummins 5.9L 12v fandom is insane. I was looking for a 5.9L 12v engine to build and swap into my RV. Why? The old dodge 440ci V8 getting 4 MPG trying to fling a small house down the road is simply not something I want to feed. I've done some digging and found that folks who have done the 5.9L 12v swap ar seeing teens in mpg. Thats miles away from the 440ci.
Getting back to the 5.9L 12v fandom issue while looking for one. I was searching the internet and found a 280K mile 5.9L 12v with no accessories, no turbo, for $1500. It was the only one I found so far. So I kept reading until towards the end, very last sentence, where the owner says that it threw a rod and has a hole in the block... $1500 for a stripped down engine with a hole blown in the block? You're batshit crazy... I then found a completely disassembled engine with no injection pump, no turbo, no exhaust manifold, and no connecting rods for $2000? Sorry, that's just nuts.
I'm likely going with the 7.3L powerstroke v8, it'll fit better, weigh less than the 5.9L 12v and the 7.3 makes more power and has the 4R100 which is a FAR better transmission. Oh and it's affordable.
It does not matter what you are talking about. From grades of soils, to trucks, hell, even our mums.
It is better to just say it how it is.
So great respectable work you have done here.
So I do have 2 questionatos',
What year(s) are likely to have a 53 block?
And secondly, I replaced my transduce/solenoid a couple of weeks ago. Yet still it would not shift out of 2nd. So......... I figured i F-ed something up. Pulled it all off, everything looked, but transducer did sit the same. So I and ended up reinstalling old transducer, kept new solenoid. And what do you know it elfin worked, was fairy happy (no fairy HAHA-Gump).
A week later drove to San Diego from eastern WA, all swell…. Until.
....wah waaaahhhhhhhh. Started doing it again. Yep, I am stuck in second, for another minute. Was thinking to get the GM solenoid doohickey. Well, I will, either way. But does anyone have any thoughts (even if you are reading this post, 3 years from this night)?
Those trolling or donating a well deserved slight, Smart ass or derogatory comment. Great, as long as it is funny. Otherwise, why are we reading it. Having a little fun.
But, seriously, Thank you so much for anyone giving me your time here. because you could bet doing anything else. So yeah, really.
😊
🙏
that crumbly 90s dash is what i remember
My 2003 5.9 gets a daily beating at 900 hp and its happy as can be lol
I ran vp44 in 12v cummins for 4 years on waste vegetable oil, aircon oil, transformer oil in a 6500kgs truck.
Vp pump is solid, the model with no electronics.
I Bought a 2001 dodge 5.9 with the 5 speed, I noticed that it did not ride rough when loaded or hooked to a trailer.
I made clamps for both ends of the overload springs with just a 1/2 inch x 2 inch piece of flat bar and pulled it
down with a bolt on each end, that really improved the ride. The first thing I did was install a gauge to watch the
pressure from the lift pump and a warning light that came on anytime it went below 10psi.
The only problem I ever had was a oil pressure censer that cost $53 from emay. After that I installed a oil pressure
gauge. I had to change both battery's when it was 10 years and 3 months due to one of them leaking acid.
Overrated? Maybe. But it's still one of my most favorite diesel engines and I'm looking to buy a truck with one. It'll be my first diesel.
Do it.
all i have to say about this for the 'light duty' pickup market:
get yourself a roller and a 4-71 detroit with a turbo. stick ....naturally.
the 66 f100 with a 4-71 was a good choice for me.
build time for me? a bit over 150 hours. NOT including paint. that's another matter. :-)
I thought this was Deboss garage when I read the title .
I've got 5 Cummins trucks and am convinced you can't keep oil in them haha.
5.9 liter vs PowerStroke & Duramax. No contest. Had an 89 and a 2000, never had a problem w/ the core engine. The VP-44 was fixed w/ a Glacier Diesel lift pump kit.
excellent video! and to throw a little more shade towards the ep@ , i recommend adding a fuel additive to increase fuel lubricity to diesel engines designed before the introduction of Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel. the Bosch ppumps, ve's and vp44's love good slick slippery diesel imo
People give Chrysler automatics a bad rep, but with regular maintenance and band adjustments they go just as long as any other automatic
The 5.9 motor is considered a medium duty motor, where as ford and chevy were considered light duty motors
Not the 7.3, it was in school buses and all sorts of medium duty applications...
Overrated?
Sorry man, I've owned a lot of the others, and had to drive the rest in my industry.
I own a Cummins because of their reliability, efficiency and ease of maintenance compared to a V8 motor.
You're inclined to feel the way you do, but I'll stick with my Cummins, and I don't care what it's in....a native Dodge, a Ford or even a GM, I make similar power, get better MPG's and don't have all the extra crap.
Ford's haven't been good since the 7.3
GM's Duramax is great until it breaks, then you find other issues digging in to fix the one.
I've pretty well accepted the issues of my Dodge as acceptable considering how much down time I do not have.
Million mile (12V) engine that gets 20MPG (in 1 ton chassis empty with 12v P7100) Where you can get to every part of the engine with ease and has the least expensive parts of any diesel I've ever worked on. For a diesel junkie, this is my favorite diesel pickup truck engine.
Love the use of no nonsense information, and backing it up with facts ! Great video !
My brothers 5.9 cummins has over 600 thousand kms of hard use, still flashes right up and goes, not sure what your talking about but..
I believe you can get the ram with an acen transmission which is an affiliate of Toyota. They make great transmissions
They are for cab and chassis or the HO 3500 only. Can't get the aisin on the 2500
My 5.9l 24 valve with a south bound dual disc clutch and nv4600 transmission (6 speed) is a monster
Love my 07 5.9, 270k miles and i wouldnt hesitate to take her anywhere.
2001 140000 miles gone thru 5 vp44 pumps. Replaced the lift pump with an aftermarket. Vp44 is trash. 2003 model just passed 450000 miles no issues. 2003 also has a 48re.
ouch!
The common rail lift pump mounted on the filter housing was lousy too.
One more thing .... a little bolt that is holding the air heater can loose and then it will go into a piston. The last cylinder is too tight and will scratch cylinder with overheating. But hell of a good one and good for at least halve a million miles.
That's on the 6.7s not the 5.9L
My 2003 had a 47re. My brother's very late 2003 had the 47re . In 2003 you had to get the high output witch had the 48re . All California trucks in 2003 had the 47re because you could only get a 235 hp .to get the 48re you had to buy out of state and get the high output and weight 6 months before you could register it in California.
2002 3500 4x4. 290k pulling a 5er 43' toyhauler. Fass 150 HD , super B turbo , 4" exhaust , trans has a non stock converter and valve body upgrade its been rock solid this far. Might get a quadzilla and put a full built transmission soon.
This kid probably never changed a spark plug in a lawnmower .
I’ve got an 07 5.9 with the g56 manual transmission. Doesn’t leak a drop of oil, and is relatively quiet for a diesel truck. Granted it’s only got 100k on it. The manual commonrail trucks are the way to go.
I have the same truck 110K.
Please do a review of the 99-2003 Navistar 7.3 and the costs to maintain it compared to a 94-98 12 valve Cummins. I have both and the 7.3 is plagued with problems, ebps, icp, cam position sensor failure, exhaust back pressure tube plugs up with soot, injector seals failing, injector cups cracking, oil cooler failure, leaks, oil or fuel in the coolant, valve cover harness failure, ebp valve sticking, leaking oil. The list goes on and on. My 96 12 valve has been trouble free for the last 15 yrs, it has the NV4500 and gets 25 mpg hwy. It cost me $3000 in 2008. First thing I did to it was fix the KDP and bumped up the timing to 15.5. My Ford has a good automatic trans but it gets about 13 mpg. I am not sure I can afford to keep the Ford.
I have a 99 6 speed! Expensive to maintain but driving it makes me happy 😊
My 23 year old 3500 nv5600 truck is still going strong. And its in a lot better shape than a lot of other trucks from the same year.
Sure, it needed some things along the way, and ive hopped it up a bit. But what 23 year old truck doesnt need some repairs and maintenance along the way?
Can’t forget about the TPS! So many of those replaced lol no cruise control and surging at hwy speeds
I was given a 95 dodge with the cummins. First thing I did was take care of kdp KDP issue. Also found and replaced a failed water pump. All the plastic is pretty much disintegrating but damm I like the engine.
For me my lbz has been so good to me but I love Cummins too might make a crazy project truck with the 12v
Have a 94' 3500 scdrw auto. Dash harness fried with 65k miles on it. Then the headlights got gremlins nothing fixed em and had to run separate wiring and switch for em. P pump went out at 80k miles had to replace with all injectors. The electrical feedback running into 47re causing o/d to kick in and out. Front end needs to be rebuilt often. The kdp. Have a 22' ccsb 2500 Cummins too now hopefully it will hold up better in the long run.
What about the ve pump That came before the P pump
I've never before heard about Mitsubishi diesels in dodge trucks. Impressive! I bet they were fuel efficient
Not very common.
I actually have one! 1978 Dodge D-200 with the 6DR5 in it. They were amazing on fuel mileage but severally underpowered. Cool conversation piece though!
I really enjoyed the video I can't wait for the 4BT Cummins video soon
It's coming soon, I promise! It's been on my to-do list for a while. Hard to balance the videos I need to do vs the videos I want to do.
Would you prefer 3.0 so called EcoDiesel instead?