When you remove the transmission is cooler lines take out the clips our used the right tool. If you unscrew them from the case you usually break the "O" ring on inside.
I love this video. I do t need to hear all the bullshit explanations, I just need to see what I’m getting into. I understood everything you did with our talking!! Great job. I’m doing my Rear main seal in a 2006 Chevy Silverado. 4x4. Next month. Thanks.
Nice clean professional work right there. Thank you 🙏 I’m about to do that to my truck and then the one in my garage on the stand. Then shoving it into my ‘75 ScoutII !
когда будет следующее видео?когда будет вытекать масло из неправильно установленного сальника?во первых нужно было отцентровать сальник относительно коленвала,во вторых нужно края сальника заправлять внутрь,в сторону блока,для этого есть та белая пластмассовая вставка,с помощью которой можно проделать эти два действия!
Great video, no aligning tool, that is the way I know, but all those videos telling that if you don't use the seal alignment tool it's going to leak. Thanks for you video
The crankshaft centers the seal, so tighten the cover/seal bolts first. The oil pan bolts are just that - to secure the oil pan. If you tighten them first, you can pull down on the cover and distort the seal fit.
Yooooo u pump me up i to do it on my own I've been to several mechanics that don't want to work on my car I don't know why all I'm asking is for a rear main seal
@@betosgarage I had my buddy with a shop up the road do a 2006 Chevy 6.0 and it has leaked for the 4th time, I guess they are no touch seals... I was busy that's why I had him do it... you want it done right you do it yourself! Thanks for letting me know
Ahw man I would be so frustrated , I’m always Realy careful when doin the this job cus it’s so much work to get to that rear plate. I always re torque all bolts & use red or black Rtv on bottom of plate where it meets the oil pan surface to be extra safe & never had leaks. But you are right , if you want it done right u do it yourself💯👍
Did you press the seal in as far as you could go into the cover? I'm in the process of replacing mine at the moment but I'm a little worried about how easy it was to press the seal into the cover.
Lowering the 4l60e from a truck I used a 3/8 long extension & swivel socket to reach the top bellhousing bolts from under the vehicle . & just spend a couple bucks on a low lift transmission jack from harbor freight . It’ll save you save u a headache
Beto’s garage I just bought that same jack it’s actually really nice and pretty cheap. I initially left those two top bolts for last and then had to put the two side bolts back in and lower the jack. Once I did that those top two bolts were pretty easy to get from a few feet back with a few long extensions. On a GMC Sierra
Nice bro . That’s the same truck I removed the engine from to swap it in my regal when I had the 5.3 . An 03 model . If you have any more questions just let me know bro 👍
@@betosgarage dammm I recently started getting this leak on my 5.3 I swapped it to my Monte Carlo 1987 imma try to clean out the motor really good to see where the leak is coming from thanks though
Two long one are from the oil pan connecting to the bottom of plate . When you’re done Re install them at 9ft lbs , short screws to the plate are 18ft lbs
Is your flexplate and the flange around the rear main seal dry? I have a leak back there and the flex plate and flange is dry and has surface rust. Looks like the pan leaking. Nice video.
Yea that part was dry , yours could be leaking from the contact point where the rear main seal & oil pan make contact . I layed RTV there before install just to be safe
Very cool video man! Nice to see no special tools needed. Just curious, did you have your oil pan down? Not sure what the part with the long bolt and the rotating of the crankshaft was about... I understand why you would want to rotate it, but don't know what that long bolt is or how you're rotating it. Thanks!
Okay just answered my question about the bolt by reading comments. I'm guessing you have the oil pan down and are spinning the engine by reaching in from the bottom?
Oil pan was still on I just removed the two long bolts at the back that connect from the oil pan to the rear cover , you’ll know what I mean when you remove it . & i spun the crank by simply putting a socket & wrench to the crank pulley bolt & slowly spin the crank to make sure the rear main seal sat properly . Hope that helps
Skipped the Biggest headache of the part change....Disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the exhaust, and Dropping the Trans!....Other than that, Great Vid! Lol
Description says "oil plan" for torque :p Thanks for showing rotating the crank... I would have not done that. Everywhere says the bolts are torque to yield, but such low torque makes me think you can reuse the bolts
Me and my friend just did the same thing u did here.....and when we got it all back together, it leaked oil worse than before! We have to tear it down again! I see nothing we did wrong! UPDATE: When we were installing the plate, we installed it with the gasket on the plate. U have to install the gasket on the engine block first or you will damage the gasket!
you are supposed to leave the white piece on. That allows the gasket to go on without damaging the seal. the white piece will pop off after seating the plate
Sorry to hear that , I have heard of this happening to a few people. On the LS engines you must use a centering tool on the rear main seal plate, then use the same tool to install the seal afterwards. You can take a chance and install it without using the tool,but that is a lot of work to do it again , especially in an SUV application. Same thing goes with front engine seal.
Great video, straight to the point, no talking about random crap for ten minutes before actually doing the thing.
Thanks bro !
Finally someone makes a perfect auto repair video . Thank you!
I appreciate that!🔥
Thanks for just doing the damn repair and posting it. No songs, dancing and jokes making it an hour long video.
Thanks for taking the time to do this
When you remove the transmission is cooler lines take out the clips our used the right tool. If you unscrew them from the case you usually break the "O" ring on inside.
I love this video. I do t need to hear all the bullshit explanations, I just need to see what I’m getting into. I understood everything you did with our talking!! Great job. I’m doing my Rear main seal in a 2006 Chevy Silverado. 4x4. Next month. Thanks.
Thanks bro !
Definitely the video I’m using for reference currently doing one on a Ls as I type
How did it turn out after watching this genuinely curious cause I’m fixen to have to do the same on a 5.3
This folks is a example of how to have a new seal leak on your daily driver also you don't unscrew the tran's cooler lines
and if the motor is out of the car....
Thanks man! Nice video going to do mine on my tahoe 🙌
The whole time I thought it was a Chevy SUV like any suburban
Haha I swapped it in my regal
It was awesome to see it was a regal...
Nice clean professional work right there. Thank you 🙏
I’m about to do that to my truck and then the one in my garage on the stand. Then shoving it into my ‘75 ScoutII !
Thanks bro & hell yea sounds like a great build!
когда будет следующее видео?когда будет вытекать масло из неправильно установленного сальника?во первых нужно было отцентровать сальник относительно коленвала,во вторых нужно края сальника заправлять внутрь,в сторону блока,для этого есть та белая пластмассовая вставка,с помощью которой можно проделать эти два действия!
Thank you for taking the time to do this!!!
No problem bro 💯🔥
Damn bro...my Silverado needs it done. Going to be weekend project for sure
Nice "how to" video. Good job on the editing.
Thanks bro , been playing around with the editing app. Takes me forever to edit a video tho lol
The seal sits flush ?
Hola beto! I'm planning on replacing rear main seal on my GMC 2005 Sierra 1500 2wd its similar to your QUE NO!!! Please tell me
Simon bro identical. This engine was off a 03 Sierra 1500
So I have to loosen the two long screw del oil pan y thas it right in terms of removing the seal cover right.
Correct
Thanks beto!
Is there any other gaskets/seals I should replace while I’m doing this?
How come you turned the engine over ??? To make sure it won't leak ??
To make sure the center seal in properly in place
Great video, no aligning tool, that is the way I know, but all those videos telling that if you don't use the seal alignment tool it's going to leak. Thanks for you video
yea it never leaked a drop , Thanks for watching bro
Do you have to tighten the “long oil pan bolts” in first or it doesn’t matter?
The crankshaft centers the seal, so tighten the cover/seal bolts first. The oil pan bolts are just that - to secure the oil pan. If you tighten them first, you can pull down on the cover and distort the seal fit.
Awesome video brotha!
BADAZZ93STANG thanks homie I appreciate it
why did you crank engine over
Nice. Thanks for making this video
thanks bro
Nice video, did you tighten the long oil pan bolts first and then the plate bolts. Great video. 👍👍🏁🏁
I found the answer down in comments, thanks.
How many hours was the whole project?
Had never seen seal install from the inside
Awesome vid dude keep em up
Nic helps me wit my project hella detail
Great video. Sitting in my Silverado at O'Reilly wondering how difficult will it be. Got my answer under 5 minutes with all the info. Thank you.
Thanks bro good luck 👍
Alejandro Espinoza how’d it go? 😂
Some videos recommend to have the alighment tools or else it will leak
My boy got skillz!
Thanks homie
Did your seal go in real easy
had to press it in little by little
Is an alignment tool needed if you replace the complete plate with seal already installed?
Yeah me to. That is why I have been doing the one take Videos lately.
Yooooo u pump me up i to do it on my own I've been to several mechanics that don't want to work on my car I don't know why all I'm asking is for a rear main seal
Is he putting RTV on the inside or the bottom of the plate
I put it on both bottom of plate & oil pan where they meet. Overkill but I rather be extra safe , hasn’t leaked since
Good video need to do this on my Silverado
Sergio Ibarra did you do it? I’m contemplating on doing it on mine.
Did it leak after driving it a bit?
Not a drop bro , drove it hard in the summer months too . Did the same job on my junkyard 6.0 & no leaks . 👍
@@betosgarage I had my buddy with a shop up the road do a 2006 Chevy 6.0 and it has leaked for the 4th time, I guess they are no touch seals... I was busy that's why I had him do it... you want it done right you do it yourself!
Thanks for letting me know
Ahw man I would be so frustrated , I’m always Realy careful when doin the this job cus it’s so much work to get to that rear plate. I always re torque all bolts & use red or black Rtv on bottom of plate where it meets the oil pan surface to be extra safe & never had leaks. But you are right , if you want it done right u do it yourself💯👍
Did you press the seal in as far as you could go into the cover? I'm in the process of replacing mine at the moment but I'm a little worried about how easy it was to press the seal into the cover.
Just saw this, I did press it flush . I had to gently tap it in there to sit flush on the cover
did it leak?
Great job!
Thanks !
would it be the same for a 2007 chevy classic 5.3?
Yes
How long do you have to practice to go that fast =)
Any tricks on lowering the transmission? Are the top bolts hard to access?
Lowering the 4l60e from a truck I used a 3/8 long extension & swivel socket to reach the top bellhousing bolts from under the vehicle . & just spend a couple bucks on a low lift transmission jack from harbor freight . It’ll save you save u a headache
Beto’s garage I just bought that same jack it’s actually really nice and pretty cheap. I initially left those two top bolts for last and then had to put the two side bolts back in and lower the jack. Once I did that those top two bolts were pretty easy to get from a few feet back with a few long extensions. On a GMC Sierra
Nice bro . That’s the same truck I removed the engine from to swap it in my regal when I had the 5.3 . An 03 model . If you have any more questions just let me know bro 👍
I bet it leaks if it isn't centered just right the seal around the crank will leak they make and alignment tool specifically for this
Why is nobody changing the [ oil barbell ) its 20 bucks and you had the cover of anyway
Too much rtv don’t you think?
So ur telling me i gotta remove my transmission
Yea bro you have to slide it back or drop the trans for you to get to it
@@betosgarage dammm I recently started getting this leak on my 5.3 I swapped it to my Monte Carlo 1987 imma try to clean out the motor really good to see where the leak is coming from thanks though
TOW CARS yea bro no problem
Were that big screw came from
Two long one are from the oil pan connecting to the bottom of plate . When you’re done Re install them at 9ft lbs , short screws to the plate are 18ft lbs
What's the torque spec when you're tighten the bolts back on?
Cover 18ft lbs
Oil plan 9ft lbs
What about the flywheel bro
Flywheel with loctite on threads
15 ft lb first pass
37 ft lb second pass
74 ft lb final pass
How much?
I think the 2 long oil pan bolts are 106 in lbs.
Might be 116 inch-pounds
How many actual man hours did this take?
Took me Around 6 hours , including dropping & re installing the trans
Damn. That’s good shit! Thx
Yes sir that's how is done ✔️
thanks bro 🔥
Are you running shorty style headers? If so, which ones if you dont mind?
Yes sir , hedman hedders shortys . Had to bang out the driver side a bit to clear but work great
@@betosgarage Yeah I've been looking for shortys that clear on g bodies. What were they for, camaro? Thanks bro
Yea an f body & no problem bro
You are a Beast, much respect! Where are you located?
Phoenix az bro
Is your flexplate and the flange around the rear main seal dry? I have a leak back there and the flex plate and flange is dry and has surface rust. Looks like the pan leaking. Nice video.
Yea that part was dry , yours could be leaking from the contact point where the rear main seal & oil pan make contact . I layed RTV there before install just to be safe
@@betosgarage Thank you
Is it pretty much the same on 6.2??
Yeah, same as the 6.2.
Hell yeah👍👍
I subscribed😎
Very cool video man! Nice to see no special tools needed. Just curious, did you have your oil pan down? Not sure what the part with the long bolt and the rotating of the crankshaft was about... I understand why you would want to rotate it, but don't know what that long bolt is or how you're rotating it. Thanks!
Okay just answered my question about the bolt by reading comments. I'm guessing you have the oil pan down and are spinning the engine by reaching in from the bottom?
Oil pan was still on I just removed the two long bolts at the back that connect from the oil pan to the rear cover , you’ll know what I mean when you remove it . & i spun the crank by simply putting a socket & wrench to the crank pulley bolt & slowly spin the crank to make sure the rear main seal sat properly . Hope that helps
@@betosgarage thanks, appreciate it!
Good shit man sick work not easy doing that shit I did it on my 5.3 Tahoe I give you props brotha keep doing your thing... 1980 ragal or 79?
Thanks I appreciate it bro , & it’s a 80’ 👍
Amazing
Skipped the Biggest headache of the part change....Disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the exhaust, and Dropping the Trans!....Other than that, Great Vid! Lol
Pretty easy to do bro. I dropped the trans from my 04 avalanche in 2 hours. Rebuilt it, put it back in the next day
How long did it take you to do this?
Took me around 6 hours, including dropping & re installing the trans
Awesome
Good job
Nice video g
You put the seal in backwards. That's what the plastic guide is for
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Description says "oil plan" for torque :p
Thanks for showing rotating the crank... I would have not done that.
Everywhere says the bolts are torque to yield, but such low torque makes me think you can reuse the bolts
Me and my friend just did the same thing u did here.....and when we got it all back together, it leaked oil worse than before! We have to tear it down again! I see nothing we did wrong!
UPDATE:
When we were installing the plate, we installed it with the gasket on the plate. U have to install the gasket on the engine block first or you will damage the gasket!
you are supposed to leave the white piece on. That allows the gasket to go on without damaging the seal. the white piece will pop off after seating the plate
Sorry to hear that , I have heard of this happening to a few people. On the LS engines you must use a centering tool on the rear main seal plate, then use the same tool to install the seal afterwards. You can take a chance and install it without using the tool,but that is a lot of work to do it again , especially in an SUV application. Same thing goes with front engine seal.
Ain’t no way that’s aligned