Great video! Planning to do this soon and have a few questions - any particular reason you chose DOT 3 vs DOT 4? Also, what size brake fluid container did you use? Bottle looks smallish, like the 12 ounce size. If so, was one bottle enough?
The main reason I went with DOT 3 vs 4 is because I had an unopened bottle sitting on my shelf already. There’s not much of a difference between the two. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point, but less susceptible to water absorption. I don’t think either of those are issues with the CRF250L. I’ve never had my brakes come even close to overheating and it’s a sealed system. The bottle I used was 12oz and I still had a little left over after I was done.
The brake peddle is loose, fluid is coming through the bleeder valve,. The pads are half worn but they dont push together at all.. i was going to remove caliper and see if the piston moves next.. looking for more tips.. thankyou. Hope you can direct me
@@FixandMaintainhi. Iv just purchased a 140cc pit bike.. back brake not working! I did as you state afew times but still doesn't work.. any idea whats best to try now? Thanks. Hope you will help!
@craigjohnstone1461 it’s a rear disk brake? Does the brake lever operate smoothly and fluid come out like it’s supposed to when you crack the bleeder valve?
I am having trouble getting pressure back into my breaks. I accidently let some air in and I have pumped fluid through quite a bit. I thought I got all the air bubbles out but the pressure is still little to none. is their anything I would be missing that would be letting air back into the breaks.
Maybe somehow there’s an air bubble trapped in the master cylinder or the caliper. With a hydraulic brake system, you’d have to have a major leak of fluid out (to the point the reservoir would be empty again) before you’d have any more air enter the system. Is it the front or rear brake?
Just completed this on my CRF250L and my son’s CRF230M. Thanks for the tutorial!! Very well made and easy to follow
That’s great, thanks!
Very well to the point and easy to understand now i don’t have to pay some guy almost like 120$ for him to just do that in like 30min
Thanks! And yes, definitely easy enough to tackle in your own garage.
excellent video , my bike is 7 years and 24500 km but this oil was never changed , thanks
That’s actually about the same as mine. It was 8 years and 26000km.
Great video! Planning to do this soon and have a few questions - any particular reason you chose DOT 3 vs DOT 4? Also, what size brake fluid container did you use? Bottle looks smallish, like the 12 ounce size. If so, was one bottle enough?
The main reason I went with DOT 3 vs 4 is because I had an unopened bottle sitting on my shelf already. There’s not much of a difference between the two. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point, but less susceptible to water absorption. I don’t think either of those are issues with the CRF250L. I’ve never had my brakes come even close to overheating and it’s a sealed system.
The bottle I used was 12oz and I still had a little left over after I was done.
The brake peddle is loose, fluid is coming through the bleeder valve,. The pads are half worn but they dont push together at all.. i was going to remove caliper and see if the piston moves next.. looking for more tips.. thankyou. Hope you can direct me
I think you’re on the right track. A seized caliper piston would be my next place to look.
@@FixandMaintain thanks
Isn’t it a good idea to change the pads as well, if you are topping the fluid right up to the top of the sight glass?
If your pads are worn and your fluid was low before starting, that would definitely be a good idea.
@@FixandMaintainhi. Iv just purchased a 140cc pit bike.. back brake not working! I did as you state afew times but still doesn't work.. any idea whats best to try now? Thanks. Hope you will help!
@craigjohnstone1461 it’s a rear disk brake? Does the brake lever operate smoothly and fluid come out like it’s supposed to when you crack the bleeder valve?
I am having trouble getting pressure back into my breaks. I accidently let some air in and I have pumped fluid through quite a bit. I thought I got all the air bubbles out but the pressure is still little to none. is their anything I would be missing that would be letting air back into the breaks.
Maybe somehow there’s an air bubble trapped in the master cylinder or the caliper. With a hydraulic brake system, you’d have to have a major leak of fluid out (to the point the reservoir would be empty again) before you’d have any more air enter the system. Is it the front or rear brake?
@@FixandMaintain it is the rear break.
The only thing I can suggest is to try reverse bleeding the brake line. Here’s an example of how to do that: ua-cam.com/video/dE6_ZeUS0EI/v-deo.html
@@FixandMaintain thanks so much. that helped a lot.
Cleared
Cleared?
@@FixandMaintain cleared?!