Great video! On Facebook groups I've seen a lot of people struggle with bleeding. A trick that I've used on new lines is one of those handheld back massagers hold it against the line and it vibrates those bubbles off the sides breaking the surface tension and they will rise up to the master cylinder.
Brilliant. Love your tutorials. Ive always struggled with front breaks. Now thanks to you I should be able to get them much better. Cheers from New Zealand 😊
I keep a re-usable ziptie on my bars all the time, for handy use on the trail, or easy to grab and clamp the lever on overnight to take care of the Tiny Bubbles!
Thanks for sharing! Your video is the only one that I've seen to where the brake lever is held in for air bleeding. I pneumatic air bled my system w/o touching the hand brake or foot pedal. Is one way better than the other? Also, wouldn't the air bubbles release better over night leaving MC cover off while zipped tied? Thanks again! Great Job!!
I think that is a good idea for just about any Phillips heads. They were first made for faster production over the straight blade screwdriver because the bit would "self center". But they are "ramped" and can be damaged so much easier than the straight wall Allen and Torx. Maybe they should be reserved for china crap by law. :)
The pneumatic bleeder is a life saver. I like the last little tips at the end that just make the brake pull really firm. Tapping the cable seems silly but it really helps.
I challenge you to do the bleed procedure you recommend, but make a custom brake hose with clear line, so we can see the bubbles, or lack of them, in the fluid during the process. Then we can also see how effective your caliper push back and banging on the brake line is.
If you fill a squeeze bottle full of fluid put a hose on the nipple hook it to the bleeder valve on the caliper force the fluid up from the caliper gravity will force all the bubbles to the very top when it's full close the valve put the cylinder cap back on you are finished.
It would be great if you did a detailed brake bleed just using what the "average dude" has around. No pneumatic bleeder, maybe just speed bleeders. Most people don't have those nor want to invest as the they only change out lines once in a blue moon.
I’ve had just as good of luck opening the cap at the top then cracking the bleeder with a hose attached, and let it gravity bleed into a cup. You’re not pumping the lever and getting a bunch of micro bubbles started by agitating the fluid so much.
The vacuum bleeder did not work for my Harley rear brake. That think has a 3" vertical loop by the swing arm pivot that is more than the suspension travel. :)
I didn't see bubbles at the end. Am I blind? And, I can't find that killer vacuum device. darn... And, at the end, do you want to overfill the reservoir? How are you sure there are no air gaps in that little reservoir up at the brake lever?
KTM is the worst....i tried everything and still could not get it to build pressure. Thought it was a problem in reservoir...rebuilt it...nothing...bought a new used one ebay...same thing...bough china knock off an pumped up in 5 cycles...jeez
Thanks for the video. Not to be an a hole but every year of the KX125 was a piece of sh*t. The best cure for a kx125 is to buy an older yz or a new ktm
Really? Is that why they filled up the starting lines in the 80's? They produced the first lower rpm motor, that filled the starting lines across the nation in the 125 class. Yamaha did the same thing later in the 90's.
First thing I do is go get my air (pneumatic) bleeder tool and hook it up to my air compressor at 100 psi and have the brakes bled in under 1 minute (literally)...
Man, your channel is gold, just great info and helping people learn. Thank you!
Great video! On Facebook groups I've seen a lot of people struggle with bleeding.
A trick that I've used on new lines is one of those handheld back massagers hold it against the line and it vibrates those bubbles off the sides breaking the surface tension and they will rise up to the master cylinder.
Thats a great idea!
Brilliant. Love your tutorials. Ive always struggled with front breaks. Now thanks to you I should be able to get them much better. Cheers from New Zealand 😊
I keep a re-usable ziptie on my bars all the time, for handy use on the trail, or easy to grab and clamp the lever on overnight to take care of the Tiny Bubbles!
Great job , thanks you so much for providing quality videos with your knowledge
Thanks for sharing! Your video is the only one that I've seen to where the brake lever is held in for air bleeding. I pneumatic air bled my system w/o touching the hand brake or foot pedal. Is one way better than the other? Also, wouldn't the air bubbles release better over night leaving MC cover off while zipped tied? Thanks again! Great Job!!
I always chuck those Phillips screws and replace them with Allen or Torx heads.
I think that is a good idea for just about any Phillips heads. They were first made for faster production over the straight blade screwdriver because the bit would "self center". But they are "ramped" and can be damaged so much easier than the straight wall Allen and Torx.
Maybe they should be reserved for china crap by law. :)
The pneumatic bleeder is a life saver. I like the last little tips at the end that just make the brake pull really firm. Tapping the cable seems silly but it really helps.
I challenge you to do the bleed procedure you recommend, but make a custom brake hose with clear line, so we can see the bubbles, or lack of them, in the fluid during the process. Then we can also see how effective your caliper push back and banging on the brake line is.
Any links for the pneumatic bleeder you recommend?
If you fill a squeeze bottle full of fluid put a hose on the nipple hook it to the bleeder valve on the caliper force the fluid up from the caliper gravity will force all the bubbles to the very top when it's full close the valve put the cylinder cap back on you are finished.
Hi cool video 01 400 mxc front brake locked up no pressure after tried doing this several times please helpp thank you !!
Another great tech video!
It would be great if you did a detailed brake bleed just using what the "average dude" has around. No pneumatic bleeder, maybe just speed bleeders. Most people don't have those nor want to invest as the they only change out lines once in a blue moon.
Great video and super helpful to show all the steps.
Why this way over back bleeding from the start?
I’ve had just as good of luck opening the cap at the top then cracking the bleeder with a hose attached, and let it gravity bleed into a cup. You’re not pumping the lever and getting a bunch of micro bubbles started by agitating the fluid so much.
The vacuum bleeder did not work for my Harley rear brake. That think has a 3" vertical loop by the swing arm pivot that is more than the suspension travel. :)
Everyone NEEDS to get a JIS screwdriver. You’ll never strip a Phillips head again
I swear even with a screw driver they are still so easy to waller out the head of screw
@@jaredgordon2798 you must have a JIS specific screwdriver.
I guess I didn't know a jis driver was a thing I'll have to check ot out
I didn't see bubbles at the end. Am I blind? And, I can't find that killer vacuum device. darn... And, at the end, do you want to overfill the reservoir? How are you sure there are no air gaps in that little reservoir up at the brake lever?
I appreciate your channel.
Wow it's a dirtbikes and they put the line on the bottom of the fork where you go into ruts or rocks?? That's crazy lol
The hell? Ha I ain’t about to have that shit laying around guy 1:03
Another great video
my problem is the brake line goes up out of the master cylinder, and then back down. Gravity works against me.
Lever needs some hawk tuah
Yea, I drink a little brake fluid once in a while.
But I can stop anytime I want!
:)
The timing on this is crazy 😂
A vacuum is merely for extracting the old fluid..
Why's the brake line under the fork wth 🙄
My wife LOVES to help me set sag 😂
KTM is the worst....i tried everything and still could not get it to build pressure. Thought it was a problem in reservoir...rebuilt it...nothing...bought a new used one ebay...same thing...bough china knock off an pumped up in 5 cycles...jeez
you got something else wrong with your bike and just throwing parts at it.
Thanks for the video. Not to be an a hole but every year of the KX125 was a piece of sh*t. The best cure for a kx125 is to buy an older yz or a new ktm
Really? Is that why they filled up the starting lines in the 80's? They produced the first lower rpm motor, that filled the starting lines across the nation in the 125 class.
Yamaha did the same thing later in the 90's.
I don't know about you but I could have been out riding while they're still working on their bike...
Looks luke just as much of a pain in the ass as every other way
Yep, plus you have to invest in an expensive bleeder.
This is line abuse smacking it around lol
dear god get rid of that brake line under the caliper.
First thing I do is go get my air (pneumatic) bleeder tool and hook it up to my air compressor at 100 psi and have the brakes bled in under 1 minute (literally)...