Відео

That’s great, you’re welcome!

Thanks!

A stainless wear ring should last the lifetime of the SeaDoo, rather than replacing a plastic wear ring every couple of years. The downside is it’s not going to be a sacrificial part like plastic is if you typically ride in shallow water or water with debris in it. Waverunners have stainless steel wear rings from the factory, and I never had any issues with the VX I used to own.

@@FixandMaintain thank u for the great info , do u recommend the impeller upgrade while doing the wear ring ?

@1989rrichard I would only recommend upgrading the impeller if the stock impeller clearance between wear ring is above spec. There’s not enough difference to justify the cost IMO.

El filtro de gasolina está ubicado en el tanque de combustible como parte del conjunto de la bomba de combustible. Por lo general, no es un elemento de mantenimiento en ese modelo.

Thanks. How’s the alignment on the front side? Even a slight misalignment at any one of those three points can cause it to not close properly.

@@FixandMaintain the rear striker and front are aligned and centered. Either the latch is the problem or I’m just an idiot. I even replaced the door ajar sensor because it wasn’t making contact and kept getting the “door ajar” popups. I appreciate your content and I followed so closely. Keep up the good work. 👍👊

There is one more adjustment that you can try, but it’s probably not going to fix it. There are three vertical bolts on the rear slide that adjust the front/back alignment of the door. It looks like they adjust the back of the door in/out, but as the door closes, that slide turns inward. If the rear striker is already aligned vertically, that’s the way to adjust it horizontally.

@@FixandMaintain thanks I appreciate it. 👍👊

Update: my father-in-law came over and looked at it and said the striker needs to be adjusted. He pushed it back and tightened and wow it worked. The door now shuts flush. I’m super relieved. Thanks for your video and responding to me. 👍👊✨

There may be an issue that’s causing the door to catch inside the housing. Does the white wheel move back and forth freely by hand with the actuator off?

@FixandMaintain I did not check. You made it look pretty easy. For me, I felt like a contortionist lol. I will check. And thanks again!

@kevinskubleny687 sorry for not accurately conveying the acrobatics required for access, but I assure you, you’re not alone. 😜 If it weren’t for my GoPro and a magnetic mount, I wouldn’t have been able to get the shots like I did.

You’re welcome! I don’t know how long it will take to build up carbon again, but I would assume it should last about as long as the first time. I haven’t had any issues since making this video back in February, but hopefully it will last a decade or more before having to clean it again.

@@FixandMaintain Thanks a lot for your prompt answer. All best wishes !

@@FixandMaintain Thank you so much. I cleaned the switch and also replaced the start and the ignition relays. Problem solved !

Yes! Definitely sounds like actuator issues. There's three actuators behind the glove box, and one (driver's side temp) under the steering wheel, but with how close they are to each other, it's hard to tell which one it is just by the clicking. It's probably "fixing" itself when it finally grabs a tooth on one of the gears and allows it to work one time, but the gear is still stripped and the actuator will need to be replaced.

I believe it does. It looks like most stores haven’t updated their compatibility lists in a while, since it’s an older item. But I did manage to find one site that had it listed as compatible with your specific SeaDoo.

I believe #3 is the center cylinder on the back side of the engine.

Thank you! Glad to be able to help!

You’re welcome!

True. But I always ride in a freshwater lake that’s fairly deep. I can see keeping the plastic wear ring if you typically ride in areas that you might suck up junk into the jet pump, but also other manufacturers like Yamaha have metal wear rings that typically don’t ever have to be replaced unless it’s abused.

That’s great! You’re welcome!

Probably not. Does your model have dual zone climate controls?

@@FixandMaintain yes

Ok, it sounds like you will need to replace one of the temperature blend door actuators. The actuator I replaced in this video just operates the mode door.

I know there’s a lot of different models of these refrigerators, did the new board you bought have the exact model number of your fridge in the description? Does the compressor attempt to start up when it’s plugged in?

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome! Yeah, before I figured out the problem I was hoping my truck wouldn’t leave me stranded somewhere. I was amazed that it was such a simple fix.

This actuator should control those functions, but if it’s changing randomly, it may be a wiring or control dial issue rather than a bad actuator. I can’t say for sure, since I’ve never ran into that scenario, but I wouldn’t count on a new actuator fixing your issue.

@@FixandMaintain okay thank you. I guess it’s more of a sometimes when I select the front blow button from another setting then it’ll mostly do front and foot and sometimes it goes front and defrost. Like it’s getting stuck it a different selection. I don’t notice any noise as you mention though.

Thanks!

It happens, just gotta roll with the punches…and fix the chips before they turn into long cracks in the windshield!

Thanks!

That’s great! Yeah, definitely not the most convenient access for it. Glad to be able to help!

Thank you!

Haha, yes, that pulley was a pain to get back in. Even more aggravating when it looks like it should go back so easily!

You’re welcome!

Good luck getting the old one out without removing the studs…or you could remove the radiator to get enough clearance, but I’d prefer the former.

Most of mine lasted around 11 years, but one went out a bit earlier than that. There’s so many factors that go into it - is the vehicle parked outside or in a garage, how often are the actuators being used, etc.

Top end was maybe 1-2mph, but takeoff was a substantial improvement

Thanks. I have a few other videos coming up before I’ll do the brake fluid on the Titan. I don’t drive it much, and changed the fluid in it fairly recently, sorry.

Thanks, glad to be able to help! My bike is a bit older than that (2013 with 22k miles). I have a few more projects coming up that I’ll be filming soon - swingarm chain slide replacement and back tire change.

I believe you mean silicate free corrosion inhibitors, as referenced in 1-6 of the shop manual. But yes, I did make sure that was mentioned at 0:15.

You’re welcome!

Sounds like a good plan

Which part?

You’re welcome!

You are welcome!

Not with just the wear ring...but - I only noticed gains after replacing the impeller as well, since the previous owner had run the ski in shallow water and destroyed the outer edge of the stock impeller. All that to say, my situation was a bit different than replacing it if everything was fine to begin with.

Go for it! It’s great to be able to do your own maintenance on your car.

@FixandMaintain 🙏took about 15 minutes start to finish

I think you’re on the right track. A seized caliper piston would be my next place to look.

@@FixandMaintain thanks

You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help!

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome!

If you do put some dielectric grease on the boots, hopefully they will come off a bit easier next time.

Thanks! Yeah, that’s annoying when people try to interject a lot of personal opinion in a how-to video. My back tire is about to need to be replaced, so I’ll probably do a video on it as well. That and replacing the swing arm chain slide.

Thanks! That bull bar was already installed when I bought the truck, so I don’t know where it came from.

Do not apply torque to the hex screw side, only the nut side or else you could strip out the screw. Use a hex socket to hold the screw in place while tightening the nut. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a way to measure torque, since the spokes are in the way preventing a torque wrench.

You’re welcome! Glad to be able to help. There’s certainly a place for local shops, but I prefer to DIY as much as I can.

I personally would stay away from all the 2-stroke PWCs for a few reasons (fuel consumption, maintenance, power), but as long as it’s in good shape, I’m sure it would be fun to drive around out on the water.

There is, but it would require a bit more work than just replacing the broken actuator... You can take off the bad actuator, manually twist the door to the correct position, take apart the actuator, remove the broken gear, turn the output shaft on the actuator to match up with the input shaft for the door, reinstall the broken gear and put the actuator back together, reinstall the actuator and DON’T plug it in. But again, much easier to take out the bad actuator and install a new one all at once.

@@FixandMaintain I greatly appreciate your feedback. Yes, given what you've suggested I'll get a new and get to work. Thank you.

@@FixandMaintain what is the name of the part the actuator screws into? I'm pretty sure mine is broken or at least off track and thinking I should get a new one while I'm up in there

I'm guessing you're referring to "Nissan 27175-7S020 Bracket-Front Heater Unit"? That's the black plastic piece that the actuator attaches to that also keeps the white plastic "Nissan 27163-7S010 Lever-Heater Unit" from falling out of place.

@@FixandMaintain Thank you