I had no idea it was so labor intensive on the newer vehicles! Lots of patience and attention to detail is required. I am planning to replace the rear window on my 2001 Taco and my F150 with tinted sliding glass windows. I am hoping it may be a bit easier but, I had better give myself more time and have available the proper tools. Thanks for the video. P.S. Nice toolbox arrangement, which is most often ignored. Very professional.
Excellent job Alfredo! It helps people like us who work our asses off, and cannot honestly afford to pay someone $750.00 here in my area to do this. I pay this forward by sharing my gifts too bro! Thank you for taking the time and effort into posting this vid cuz it REALLY helped me out carnal! Im a tell all mi familia down there in Corona to choose you #1 glass install ! ~Rooster
thanks for the video. You convinced me that going to the junkyard for a used rear window is going to be nearly impossible because you essentially have to destroy it to take it out
I use those plastic knife too for those kind of job. I don't remember the Tacoma, but the last time I did a Ram, I did it with the wire machine. You just need to unpry those inside metal tabs before you begin.
Use soap liquid detergent mixed with water to make your knife slide thru the rubber and urethane just spray as you go. Since you are right handed you should start from other side and keep your elbow braced against the roof and use wrist pulls strokes.
Hey Alfredo how much do you charge for the solo price of the square glass* ? How much do you charge for the physical job of installing it*? *(The Square glass that actually slides)
I remove and reinstall those when replacing a roof . It's not fun by any means. I remove the trim and of course the headliner is already out. I use no power tools and cut it out from the inside.
So just did a back glass I used pilkington glass. Customer came back the glass has gaps on the sides is not flush Any recommendations for me pleAse. I’m a big fan of yours by the way. Thanks
Your video was very helpful to me in show me what I was in for taking this window out. I'm not a professional, I have taken my window out and I'm ready to reinstall a new one. I was thinking of using 3M™ Windo-Weld™ Ribbon Sealer, what do you think of it?
David Galvan I would highly recommend you finding a local auto glass company that uses Express Dow urethane and buy it from them also 5504G Black primer, very very important because the back window is encapsulated and you’ll need to apply primer to it as well on the body if any scratches were made.
How would I get it off if I wanted to keep it intact just so I can paint the truck is there any way to remove it without destroying it I've got a solid back glass no slider window
We do body shop work and sometimes have to R&I these without them breaking, that and ram back glasses. It is almost impossible to take them out without damaging the encapsulation, if we do damage it we use some urethane and fill in where the cuts are, letting it dry and smoothing it out. We just use a pipe knife on the inside and push out while we cut it. I haven't tried wire tooling it but that may be an option. As a last resort you can fully strip the interior and cold knife it from the inside, like you would on the bottom of a ram back glass. I just picked up one of those Milwaukee multi-tools inspired by you and ordered some equalizer ninja blades for it, do you just use washers to hold it in or do they fit?
Scary... when an entire rear window is to be removed that entire unit is pulled out by the grasping onto the rubber gasket from one end to the other seperating itself from the window framing, there is no need to cut anything this looks more like a butchering job..
Hah! I have to R&I those for body shops. Truly one of the stupidest designs ever conceived, and should make Toyota designers blush with embarrassment. The urethane actually squishes around and bonds to two sides of the encapsulation when installed at the factory. Really not that big of a deal for a replacement when you aren't trying to save the glass and can just saw through everything, hah! You should try that job trying to save the glass and minimizing pinchweld damage at the same time and pull all the interior for s power slider. I can't imagine a home made "Fein Knife" would be involved whatsoever, not to criticise your tool, because its cool- they have been around for years and are very expensive and made in Germany (I like the more affordable Milwaukee route, good way to broaden your tool inventory without costing a fortune). Also in R&I work, you would not be yanking and bending on the glass frame. Its interesting someone would post a replacement video of a manual slider, but it does give a glimpse into the difficulty of one of the most ,and widely regarded worst, R&I jobs out there. Its great that there was a girl interrupting you and asking you how long you were going to be! You just can't make that up- the absolute auto glass technician experience right there, right after you were talking about patience too! I do body shop work and have found the removal of interior necessary for the cleanest outcome. In addition I use very sharp push tools on the sides as well as hand pulled wire and cold knife top and bottom from the inside. with the power slider, removal of the back seat is a must for access to the motor, but the interior removal gives you access to a whole different approach. It is important to remember when doing these that the glue wraps around two sides of the glass and requires being basically cut out twice, otherwise you will be cutting and cutting through the same spots, pulling your hair out, wondering why it isn't loose. these areas take car because you then have to carefully lift the outside flap without cutting it, in order to cut the outside encapsulation from the body, which is at a 90 degree and wrapped around orientation to the actual pichweld - if that makes any sense. Like I said, It is widely regarded as one of the worst R&I pulls out there and the designers at Toyota deserve a swift kick in the balls for putting it into production.
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I had no idea it was so labor intensive on the newer vehicles! Lots of patience and attention to detail is required. I am planning to replace the rear window on my 2001 Taco and my F150 with tinted sliding glass windows. I am hoping it may be a bit easier but, I had better give myself more time and have available the proper tools. Thanks for the video. P.S. Nice toolbox arrangement, which is most often ignored. Very professional.
The best VIDEO EVER. From start to finish a perfect tutorial for the removal. Thank you for your videos a great instructor.
Excellent job Alfredo! It helps people like us who work our asses off, and cannot honestly afford to pay someone $750.00 here in my area to do this. I pay this forward by sharing my gifts too bro!
Thank you for taking the time and effort into posting this vid cuz it REALLY helped me out carnal!
Im a tell all mi familia down there in Corona to choose you #1 glass install !
~Rooster
thanks for the video. You convinced me that going to the junkyard for a used rear window is going to be nearly impossible because you essentially have to destroy it to take it out
Its not impossible. Use a wire cut out tool. Or an extractor from the inside.
Grasias por tus bideos yo mismo installé el bidrio de mi tacoma
I use those plastic knife too for those kind of job. I don't remember the Tacoma, but the last time I did a Ram, I did it with the wire machine. You just need to unpry those inside metal tabs before you begin.
Brads Auto Glass in Michigan.....on UA-cam....not only does he sell the glass but he'll show you how to install👍👍
Right you don't need to remove the whole window just the broken panel
Use soap liquid detergent mixed with water to make your knife slide thru the rubber and urethane just spray as you go. Since you are right handed you should start from other side and keep your elbow braced against the roof and use wrist pulls strokes.
If you ever get a backglass on a new silverado with heating can you make a video please?
great job man.
look into a glass blaster. the tool is a bit pricy but will help you on jobs like this.
Here we cannot use the glass blaster on car that run(not in junkyard). It illegal et scrap the paint.
So it is not worth it to do the job?
When you say primer, do you mean paint primer or the area to be applied with urethane?
Hey Alfredo how much do you charge for the solo price of the square glass* ?
How much do you charge for the physical job of installing it*?
*(The Square glass that actually slides)
I remove and reinstall those when replacing a roof . It's not fun by any means. I remove the trim and of course the headliner is already out. I use no power tools and cut it out from the inside.
So just did a back glass I used pilkington glass.
Customer came back the glass has gaps on the sides is not flush
Any recommendations for me pleAse. I’m a big fan of yours by the way. Thanks
I’ve always struggle to do that backglass.
These back glasses are a nightmare I usually wear my extractor out on one of these guaranteed two hours job every time.
dam these things are hard to get off. i wrapped ropes around mine pulled them off and hammer and a flathead too,
Your video was very helpful to me in show me what I was in for taking this window out. I'm not a professional, I have taken my window out and I'm ready to reinstall a new one. I was thinking of using 3M™ Windo-Weld™ Ribbon Sealer, what do you think of it?
David Galvan I would highly recommend you finding a local auto glass company that uses Express Dow urethane and buy it from them also 5504G Black primer, very very important because the back window is encapsulated and you’ll need to apply primer to it as well on the body if any scratches were made.
Complete removal without damaging the glass trim
Invention tool?
Can you tell
Me what tool that is your using to cut the glass out
How would I get it off if I wanted to keep it intact just so I can paint the truck is there any way to remove it without destroying it I've got a solid back glass no slider window
1 piece window should be easier to save. Body shop glass tech should be able to save it.
I need some Blades Bud.(electric Knife) .where can I get some?
Are you the dude that invented the famous (and delicious) fettuccine dish ?!
We do body shop work and sometimes have to R&I these without them breaking, that and ram back glasses. It is almost impossible to take them out without damaging the encapsulation, if we do damage it we use some urethane and fill in where the cuts are, letting it dry and smoothing it out. We just use a pipe knife on the inside and push out while we cut it. I haven't tried wire tooling it but that may be an option. As a last resort you can fully strip the interior and cold knife it from the inside, like you would on the bottom of a ram back glass. I just picked up one of those Milwaukee multi-tools inspired by you and ordered some equalizer ninja blades for it, do you just use washers to hold it in or do they fit?
Scary... when an entire rear window is to be removed that entire unit is pulled out by the grasping onto the rubber gasket from one end to the other seperating itself from the window framing, there is no need to cut anything this looks more like a butchering job..
Use heating induction
Hah! I have to R&I those for body shops. Truly one of the stupidest designs ever conceived, and should make Toyota designers blush with embarrassment. The urethane actually squishes around and bonds to two sides of the encapsulation when installed at the factory. Really not that big of a deal for a replacement when you aren't trying to save the glass and can just saw through everything, hah! You should try that job trying to save the glass and minimizing pinchweld damage at the same time and pull all the interior for s power slider. I can't imagine a home made "Fein Knife" would be involved whatsoever, not to criticise your tool, because its cool- they have been around for years and are very expensive and made in Germany (I like the more affordable Milwaukee route, good way to broaden your tool inventory without costing a fortune). Also in R&I work, you would not be yanking and bending on the glass frame. Its interesting someone would post a replacement video of a manual slider, but it does give a glimpse into the difficulty of one of the most ,and widely regarded worst, R&I jobs out there. Its great that there was a girl interrupting you and asking you how long you were going to be! You just can't make that up- the absolute auto glass technician experience right there, right after you were talking about patience too! I do body shop work and have found the removal of interior necessary for the cleanest outcome. In addition I use very sharp push tools on the sides as well as hand pulled wire and cold knife top and bottom from the inside. with the power slider, removal of the back seat is a must for access to the motor, but the interior removal gives you access to a whole different approach. It is important to remember when doing these that the glue wraps around two sides of the glass and requires being basically cut out twice, otherwise you will be cutting and cutting through the same spots, pulling your hair out, wondering why it isn't loose. these areas take car because you then have to carefully lift the outside flap without cutting it, in order to cut the outside encapsulation from the body, which is at a 90 degree and wrapped around orientation to the actual pichweld - if that makes any sense. Like I said, It is widely regarded as one of the worst R&I pulls out there and the designers at Toyota deserve a swift kick in the balls for putting it into production.
Did that all wrong just needed a right panel replaced
'Rona!
I don't own a pipe knife