The Ender 5 S1 is now obsolete, but there are new options! Check the links below for the best prices and options. As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) Creality Amazon Store (Creality Ender 3 V3) ► amzn.to/3xC31jC Creality Amazon Store (HYPER PLA Filament) ► amzn.to/3M8zrXc Looking for the PLUS version of this printer? Ender 3 V3 PLUS (New!) ► shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2569126&u=3650799&m=124834&urllink=&afftrack=
I lined up the Ender 5 S1, the Flashforge Adventurer 4, and the Prusa i3... after a week of heavy research and after watching this video, I decided that the Ender 5 S1 will be the first 3d printer that I own - I actually ordered it while the last few minutes of this video were playing in the background. Thank's for the complete breakdown and honest review.
Same. I ordered the speed package that includes the sonic pad. I also ordered an ender 7, that is $343 right now. I think (hope) that the sonic pad and tri-axis bed support will make that a nice printer
I flashed Klipper on the 5 S1, and was able to get rid of the stringing. I don't know why I (we) had such a hard time with the stringing using the original firmware. Have it very reliably running at 120 with great results. Nice Review!
I just received my new Ender 5 S1. Came across this video after building my printer and loved the way you demonstrated how to get started, especially leveling the bed. I watched several other videos before I reached yours and they weren't nearly as good in the startup and first print demonstration. THANK YOU!!! I ordered my printer directly from Creality along with the Sonic Pad. Haven't installed the pad yet but I'm excited to do that next. I'll check your channel to see if you've covered the Sonic Pad setup. Considering buying the PEI plate from your website.
I've watch a ton of videos about this machine but for me this gave me the information I wanted. You showed plenty of finished prints in good close up and that's what I wanted to see. The prints look good. The Info about the print plate was excellent and I will order that at the same time. I have been tossing up between this and the Bambu Lab X1C but for me in NZ its about $1000.00 less for this and the prints look kinda the same. Good video. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Yes the print quality is excellent and I've heard with a sonic pad (klipper) it gets even better. It may not match the speed of the Bambu Lab X1C but if it is $1000 less and you can live with less speed and still get great quality it sounds like a good deal.
@@EmbraceMaking It was used with a bent / broken hot end frame. $8 & $30 shipping from China. Just got it together and auto bed level works perfectly. 💪
I lowered the retraction speed a little and it did help a little bit. Still getting some whisping here and there depending on the filament. Really strange. Someone said they switched to Klipper and it went away
This was the first thing I did on my new Ender 5 S1 cura profile. The default retraction was 5mm🤣 and so I copied my Ender 3 Pro cura profile that I know works beautifully. Similar retraction distance and speed that you suggested.
I would love a comparison between this and the Ender 7-post modding. I'm really curious about your opinions on the Ender 5S1 cantilever. The only thing I feel like this printer doesn't have is dual z axis, although I don't own one and can't speak to whether it is necessary.
Ender 7 post modding is pretty good but honestly I have yet to find the time to push it with Klipper. I have a Sonic pad now so I'm going to try and run it with both the Ender 5 S1 and the modded Ender 7. I think the Ender 7 will likely produce better results with the high speed printing because of the linear rails / core xy and the higher flowing hotend, plus the highly rigid bed design that I put together. The Ender 5 S1 is an amazing out of the box printer without modding - even the new bed design is way more rigid than any other cantilever design Creality has put together in the past. For printing "regular" speeds it is more than up to the task and no issues with bed sagging. I suspect once I use the Sonic pad it might start to reveal some issues with the cantilever and the overall motion system but hopefully some of that can be tuned out with more advanced compensation like input shaping. We will see!
Hi Charles, there is this one: ua-cam.com/video/j8vrJnOvllQ/v-deo.html and you can also find it here: embracemaking.com/products/creality-smooth-spool-holder and I have a newer one that I showed towards the end of my most recent video: ua-cam.com/video/vo5xYLcvk2w/v-deo.html and you can find that one here too: embracemaking.com/products/super-deluxe-spool-holder Thanks!
@@EmbraceMaking it ended up being fine for the printer but my sonic pad keeps having webhook shutdown requests when I didn’t touch it and now it’s practically useless lol.
Which firmware version are you running? Have you had issues with ABL going AWOL? Mine went from one print being perfect to the next print being off-level and unable to revel. Even manual relevel only works for that print, the next one it's off again, ABL throws everything out, almost like the z-offset is different on the left and right sides of the bed.
All metal hotend up to 300 degrees so: TPU, PLA, ABS, PETG, ASA, HIPS, PC and others that fall under the 300 degree nozzle temp. For some of them you'll want to try to enclose the machine to prevent warping... Bed temp can go to 110 degrees so in theory you should be able to do ABS at that temp with a decent enclosure.
Hey! Thanks for the video. Im completely new to 3D printing and got this printer. Im trying to understand and setting up some profiles. What speed do you usually print in? When doing a fine profile and just a standard one(faster)? Print speed? Infill speed? outer wall speed? support speed? travel speed? Also when i print the boat that comes on the memory card the filament is blank on the finished product. When i print with the standard profile in creality slicer (0,2mm layer height) the filament gets matte.. Any idea what that can be to cause this?
I would say average. If you get it running on the sonic pad and crank up the speed it's going to get a little noisier, but if you're running at regular speed it's comparable to a regular Ender 3 S1 or most other modern Creality printers.
My ender 5s1 does not have a z limit switch or wiring fot it. I noted this was missing in creality assembly video as well. Any idea why I would not have that?
the first batch of CE5s1 printers had the 3d printed cooling duct, and z limit switch, the updated version doesn't have the z limit switch anymore and injected molded plastic for the duct now.
Hey this may be a dumb question, but I just got the 3d printer, I heated the nozzle but the filament refuses to feed, I even cut it and did the usual poking around for the right angle, even tried using the thin metal needle and nothing goes down
hello, I downloaded your profile to test it, and seen that you have a retraction of 1 to 30 mm/s, after printing a retraction test, it is not even close to a good print, apart from the fact that you have the upper layers to
Been working great for me... are you experiencing too much stringing? If so, other factors that can affect stringing are printing too close to the bed (nozzle drags around excess plastic) and too high of print temperature for the material, or even water in your filament. Also I don't think you finished your comment. What is the issue with the upper layers?
Hi, thanks for the video! When I turned on my device, the backlight on the touch screen lights up but there is no display for me to interact with. Any advice?
I spent hours on leveling but the middle is everytime higher than the corners 😒 and the autolevel doesnt compare the problem. Every print in the middle is too close to the nozzle. Every print around the middle is a mid-air fail... do you have a tip?
@@EmbraceMaking Im not really sure. After auto leveling the terminal says, settings saved. I start the auto leveling with the printer menu. And when the print starts its pre-print code execute G28 followed by M420 S1 Z10
I have a problem with the leveling. The Z height (bed and nozzle gap) becomes larger as the nozzle moves in Y axis direction (from 0 mm to 220 mm). Have you found this problem?
@@ejeZ327 Here is what I found and how I fixed it. I assumed that the auto bed leveling is the cause of this problem. As you do auto bed leveling both in the machine setting and before the printing start, an error levelling is occurred. You may check the Z axis, It supposed to stop in a single printing layer as you did perfect clearance between bed and nozzle. I fixed it by removing G29 from the start G code in machine setting of Creality slicer. Her, the machine will not do the auto bed leveling before it starts. Next, You have to restore the machine to default. After that, do manual leveling. Finally, print something out, check the Z axis rotation, check the printed part are in good level. PS. Do not use auto leveling at all !!
I have this with sonicpad and have yet to get it to print. This printer constantly says out of print area, and it doesn't matter where it is on the platform. I get no help from Creality. Any suggestion from anyone. I think it is going to make one expensive target for my shotgun!
@EmbraceMaking I finally just wiped out the pad, reloaded it and the printer, and had to mess with the code and got it to print one thing tonight, lol I would still rather have another Sovol, they are perfection.
Interesting, after wiping it did you do anything different at all? How did the print turn out? I actually have never used a Sovol yet, I should try and get my hands on one. I recently did a video about the Artillery Sidewinder and it's actually decent. Some people love the brand and others hate it but mine has been working flawless
@EmbraceMaking I think part of the problem was instead of sending me a new sonicpad which is what I paid for they sent a used and the person before did something that made every printer think it was a ender 3. After wiping it out, it now seems to be printing fine. I have printed several things, and all have come out ok. I love the Sovol, straight out of the box printed beautifully, and have not had a single issue.
The Ender 5 S1 is now obsolete, but there are new options! Check the links below for the best prices and options. As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you)
Creality Amazon Store (Creality Ender 3 V3)
► amzn.to/3xC31jC
Creality Amazon Store (HYPER PLA Filament)
► amzn.to/3M8zrXc
Looking for the PLUS version of this printer?
Ender 3 V3 PLUS (New!)
► shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2569126&u=3650799&m=124834&urllink=&afftrack=
I lined up the Ender 5 S1, the Flashforge Adventurer 4, and the Prusa i3... after a week of heavy research and after watching this video, I decided that the Ender 5 S1 will be the first 3d printer that I own - I actually ordered it while the last few minutes of this video were playing in the background. Thank's for the complete breakdown and honest review.
Glad it was useful for you to make your decision!
Same.
I ordered the speed package that includes the sonic pad.
I also ordered an ender 7, that is $343 right now.
I think (hope) that the sonic pad and tri-axis bed support will make that a nice printer
I flashed Klipper on the 5 S1, and was able to get rid of the stringing. I don't know why I (we) had such a hard time with the stringing using the original firmware. Have it very reliably running at 120 with great results. Nice Review!
Thanks! Glad I wasn't the only one who experienced this. I recently picked up a sonic pad so in excited to try it out on the Ender 5 S1
I just received my new Ender 5 S1. Came across this video after building my printer and loved the way you demonstrated how to get started, especially leveling the bed. I watched several other videos before I reached yours and they weren't nearly as good in the startup and first print demonstration. THANK YOU!!! I ordered my printer directly from Creality along with the Sonic Pad. Haven't installed the pad yet but I'm excited to do that next. I'll check your channel to see if you've covered the Sonic Pad setup. Considering buying the PEI plate from your website.
Thanks again Chris, there will be an upcoming Sonic pad video for sure! Stay tuned!
I've watch a ton of videos about this machine but for me this gave me the information I wanted. You showed plenty of finished prints in good close up and that's what I wanted to see. The prints look good. The Info about the print plate was excellent and I will order that at the same time. I have been tossing up between this and the Bambu Lab X1C but for me in NZ its about $1000.00 less for this and the prints look kinda the same. Good video. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Yes the print quality is excellent and I've heard with a sonic pad (klipper) it gets even better. It may not match the speed of the Bambu Lab X1C but if it is $1000 less and you can live with less speed and still get great quality it sounds like a good deal.
This video was exactly what I needed to get up and running with confidence. Appreciated the step by steps and tips throughout the video
Thanks for the kind words, glad it helped you.
Thank you for the review. The printer is on sale from my local MicroCenter. I an old Ender 3 V2. Looks like it’s time to upgrade!!
Fair play, engaged I feel. Thanks for sharing slicer config. Big help to someone new at this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Two thumbs up! You are incredibly articulate and precise with your comments. Thank you for posting
You're very welcome! Thank you for watching!
Building one this weekend. Thanks 🎉
Have fun and enjoy it!
@@EmbraceMaking It was used with a bent / broken hot end frame. $8 & $30 shipping from China. Just got it together and auto bed level works perfectly. 💪
Thanks! This video helped me get started very quickly!!
Thank you so much for the donation, very much appreciated. I'm so happy you found this useful!
Lowering the retraction speed around 25 or 30mm/s with .8 to 1mm retraction will likely fix the whisping.
I lowered the retraction speed a little and it did help a little bit. Still getting some whisping here and there depending on the filament. Really strange. Someone said they switched to Klipper and it went away
This was the first thing I did on my new Ender 5 S1 cura profile. The default retraction was 5mm🤣 and so I copied my Ender 3 Pro cura profile that I know works beautifully. Similar retraction distance and speed that you suggested.
Thanks for very good rewiew!!!
Glad it was helpful! Hope you can come back and watch more of my content :)
Thank you so much for making this video it’s the best😂. I almost smash mine with a bat and throw it away haha
Ha! Don't do that, I hope my video helped!
Great video! i used this to set up my Ender 5 s1 very helpful. Will there be a sonic pad video on CE5 s1??
Working on it! Check back soon and subscribe so you don't miss it!
I would love a comparison between this and the Ender 7-post modding. I'm really curious about your opinions on the Ender 5S1 cantilever. The only thing I feel like this printer doesn't have is dual z axis, although I don't own one and can't speak to whether it is necessary.
Ender 7 post modding is pretty good but honestly I have yet to find the time to push it with Klipper. I have a Sonic pad now so I'm going to try and run it with both the Ender 5 S1 and the modded Ender 7. I think the Ender 7 will likely produce better results with the high speed printing because of the linear rails / core xy and the higher flowing hotend, plus the highly rigid bed design that I put together. The Ender 5 S1 is an amazing out of the box printer without modding - even the new bed design is way more rigid than any other cantilever design Creality has put together in the past. For printing "regular" speeds it is more than up to the task and no issues with bed sagging. I suspect once I use the Sonic pad it might start to reveal some issues with the cantilever and the overall motion system but hopefully some of that can be tuned out with more advanced compensation like input shaping. We will see!
The video references a link to another for your spool holder fix, but didn't see the link.
Hi Charles, there is this one: ua-cam.com/video/j8vrJnOvllQ/v-deo.html and you can also find it here: embracemaking.com/products/creality-smooth-spool-holder and I have a newer one that I showed towards the end of my most recent video: ua-cam.com/video/vo5xYLcvk2w/v-deo.html and you can find that one here too: embracemaking.com/products/super-deluxe-spool-holder Thanks!
Have you done much with TPU? If so, how does it handle it and what kind of speed do you print with it?
Great video, Cool Channel...I love my Ender 5Pro+ ;-p
Thank you! Glad you liked it and you are enjoying your printer :)
Me who build it a few months ago and have done countless prints on it just realise it the screws are different lengths for the print bed💀
I'm sure it will be fine ☺️
@@EmbraceMaking it ended up being fine for the printer but my sonic pad keeps having webhook shutdown requests when I didn’t touch it and now it’s practically useless lol.
Which firmware version are you running? Have you had issues with ABL going AWOL? Mine went from one print being perfect to the next print being off-level and unable to revel. Even manual relevel only works for that print, the next one it's off again, ABL throws everything out, almost like the z-offset is different on the left and right sides of the bed.
What type of materials can be used with it?
All metal hotend up to 300 degrees so: TPU, PLA, ABS, PETG, ASA, HIPS, PC and others that fall under the 300 degree nozzle temp. For some of them you'll want to try to enclose the machine to prevent warping... Bed temp can go to 110 degrees so in theory you should be able to do ABS at that temp with a decent enclosure.
Hey! Thanks for the video. Im completely new to 3D printing and got this printer. Im trying to understand and setting up some profiles.
What speed do you usually print in? When doing a fine profile and just a standard one(faster)?
Print speed?
Infill speed?
outer wall speed?
support speed?
travel speed?
Also when i print the boat that comes on the memory card the filament is blank on the finished product. When i print with the standard profile in creality slicer (0,2mm layer height) the filament gets matte.. Any idea what that can be to cause this?
What is the name of that pencil screwdriver you used in this video and where can I pick one up?
Electric screwdriver found here amzn.to/3JRbbZe
Thanks!
IS THIS UNIT PRETTY LOUD? OR IS IT QUIET?
I would say average. If you get it running on the sonic pad and crank up the speed it's going to get a little noisier, but if you're running at regular speed it's comparable to a regular Ender 3 S1 or most other modern Creality printers.
I have one with the z switch why is that
Mine also has the z switch at the bottom. This was the first model... they since updated to only use the CR touch as the z switch from what I can tell
Where is your filament change video?
Hi Jed, sorry can you be more specific, what do you mean by filament change video? Am I missing a link?
My ender 5s1 does not have a z limit switch or wiring fot it. I noted this was missing in creality assembly video as well. Any idea why I would not have that?
That's very strange, when you home the printer does it go to the bottom first or go up and use the cr touch?
Same here, it goes down about 10mm then up until it hits the CR Touch. It's never gone all the way down
Some reviews suggested the z limit switch was unnecessary and the uso of the cr touch sensor as a limit switch would make more sense.
the first batch of CE5s1 printers had the 3d printed cooling duct, and z limit switch, the updated version doesn't have the z limit switch anymore and injected molded plastic for the duct now.
This vs Sovol SV06 plus. Which one is better?
Thanks in advance!
The Sovol is one brand I've actually never tried so unfortunately I can't really give you an answer :(
Hey this may be a dumb question, but I just got the 3d printer, I heated the nozzle but the filament refuses to feed, I even cut it and did the usual poking around for the right angle, even tried using the thin metal needle and nothing goes down
While you're trying to manually feed the filament through, you're pushing the tensioning lever on the extruder so the filament can get past it, right?
Can you share the settings? I print with 120mm\s , 0.8mm retraction, 30mmn/s retraction speed, PLA at 205/60, but i always get clog and can't print :/
Check the link at the bottom for the downloadable prusa profile I made: embracemaking.com/blogs/resources/ender-5-s1-prusaslicer-configuration
Prusa 1.6 alpha has official profiles, they're pretty decent.
hello, I downloaded your profile to test it, and seen that you have a retraction of 1 to 30 mm/s, after printing a retraction test, it is not even close to a good print, apart from the fact that you have the upper layers to
Been working great for me... are you experiencing too much stringing? If so, other factors that can affect stringing are printing too close to the bed (nozzle drags around excess plastic) and too high of print temperature for the material, or even water in your filament. Also I don't think you finished your comment. What is the issue with the upper layers?
@@EmbraceMaking you have the upper layers option desactivated (0), i will do a machine calibration test to see the result. Thx bro
Hi, thanks for the video! When I turned on my device, the backlight on the touch screen lights up but there is no display for me to interact with. Any advice?
Have you checked your cables going from the screen to the mainboard? You might have to open up the electronics enclosure
@@EmbraceMaking Hi, thanks for the reply I was able to get things going in the right direction eventually!
I spent hours on leveling but the middle is everytime higher than the corners 😒 and the autolevel doesnt compare the problem. Every print in the middle is too close to the nozzle. Every print around the middle is a mid-air fail... do you have a tip?
Hmm, what slicer are you using? Can you see the autobed levelling working on the first layer?
@@EmbraceMaking Im not really sure. After auto leveling the terminal says, settings saved. I start the auto leveling with the printer menu. And when the print starts its pre-print code execute G28 followed by M420 S1 Z10
Strange... sounds like you have it all setup right.. What firmware version are you on? I'm on 1.0.3
@@EmbraceMaking Im on 1.0.4
Might be worth trying to go back to 1.0.3 to see if it makes a difference?
I have a problem with the leveling. The Z height (bed and nozzle gap) becomes larger as the nozzle moves in Y axis direction (from 0 mm to 220 mm). Have you found this problem?
Hola! Lo pudiste solucionar?
@@ejeZ327 Do you have the same problem ?
Si! Tengo el mismo problema, aún no sé cómo solucionarlo
@@ejeZ327
Here is what I found and how I fixed it.
I assumed that the auto bed leveling is the cause of this problem. As you do auto bed leveling both in the machine setting and before the printing start, an error levelling is occurred. You may check the Z axis, It supposed to stop in a single printing layer as you did perfect clearance between bed and nozzle.
I fixed it by removing G29 from the start G code in machine setting of Creality slicer. Her, the machine will not do the auto bed leveling before it starts. Next, You have to restore the machine to default. After that, do manual leveling. Finally, print something out, check the Z axis rotation, check the printed part are in good level.
PS. Do not use auto leveling at all !!
I have this with sonicpad and have yet to get it to print. This printer constantly says out of print area, and it doesn't matter where it is on the platform. I get no help from Creality. Any suggestion from anyone. I think it is going to make one expensive target for my shotgun!
Before you use it for target practice, hang in there. I have a sonic pad video with the Ender 5 S1 coming!
@EmbraceMaking I finally just wiped out the pad, reloaded it and the printer, and had to mess with the code and got it to print one thing tonight, lol I would still rather have another Sovol, they are perfection.
Interesting, after wiping it did you do anything different at all? How did the print turn out? I actually have never used a Sovol yet, I should try and get my hands on one. I recently did a video about the Artillery Sidewinder and it's actually decent. Some people love the brand and others hate it but mine has been working flawless
@EmbraceMaking I think part of the problem was instead of sending me a new sonicpad which is what I paid for they sent a used and the person before did something that made every printer think it was a ender 3. After wiping it out, it now seems to be printing fine. I have printed several things, and all have come out ok. I love the Sovol, straight out of the box printed beautifully, and have not had a single issue.
Good to know, maybe as part of the procedure I put together for the video I'll mention just to wipe it right from the start!