Kayak Trolling Motor PWM Review
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- One of the problems with installing a kayak trolling motor PWM is it is hard to find one that is reliable. I take a look at a PWM speed controller I bought off Amazon that was designed and setup as a control for a trolling motor. No need to build your own box and hook up all the switches. What is your opinion of this PWM?
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I used the PWM you have in the right top corner in your video. I run a 55LB New Port motor with my PWM in a box I made with a 12V 100Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Rechargeable Battery. It has worked really well. I have not had overheating problems so far. I run this all on a 16' aluminum canoe.
You must have gotten a good one!
I'm glad to see that you actually bought one and opened it up. That company makes 2 models which I have seen for sale for quite a while on Amazon. The PWM used is one of the inexpensive units that is not very reliable. It is the same design as the FPV Power PWM but at a much lower price. I agree and would not recommend either of these two products.
thanks for that additional info!
Our a 20 amp in line fuse between the battery and the unit. Maybe it will save it.
Did you see the updated video? The issue is brush vs brushless motor. All the PWM I see on Amazon are for brush motors - most trolling motors are brushless.
Make sure all the knobs are in the off position when you hook up the battery. A sudden voltage surge will smoke that turd every time. It did mine.
So true!
I agree, that is a fire hazard. However, you are incorrect, a trolling motor does not draw full amperage all the time if using the standard switch. The switch regulates the amount of current (amps) available to the motor through speed coils. On speed one, a 30 lb thrust will only draw a few amps. You probably meant to say that 12 volts are available all the time, and that is correct. As you say, a PWM pulses voltage (and the associated amperage) resulting in battery savings. Having done many comparison tests of switch vs pwm vs esc, using an amp/watt meter, there IS battery savings using a electronic motor speed control, but it is not significant enough for the fire risk of a piece of junk, or the Hobbwing ESC many people are using. I personally use a Minn Kota Traxxis board for speed control, but have a switch box in my front storage area to get me home if needed. Feel free to delete this comment after reading, I believe you just did not say what you meant. I do it all the time.
Thank you for that clarification
Can you add a PWM to a Motor Guide R3
Sorry, I am not familiar with that product
Steve. Your call sounds correct. Did you try tech support?
No, I did not. I just returned the unit. I rarely use my motor.
Could you run a large gauge copper wire against the heat sink then out a gland fitting, then coil it, or wrap around yhe case. Seems this might pull some heat out of the box and still retain waterproof ness.
Sounds like a good idea. I no longer have this unit so I cannot try your suggestion.
Think you hack a fix? Could be a challenge. You da man!
lol! Already returned it to Amazon.
Not having the unit in front of me, my observations are limited to what you showed. But what you showed was significant.
My 1st guess is that you got a returned/refurbished unit. There may have been screws in a new unit to hold the board in place where there are only nuts and holes in the one you got. I agree there is a trade-off with ventilation and waterproofing - can't really have both. However, it can be made water resistant and allow some ventilation. There were definitely a lot of heat sinks. I wouldn't be bothered so much by them not lining up better, as I am by the board not being connected to the base.
Bottom line for me. Their design needs a bit of improvement and their quality control needs serious improvement.
Thanks for the info! Do you have a pwm that you would recommend?
Sadly, I have not found one that will work on a brushless motor that does not cost a fortune. U just posted a video about PWMs burning out. ua-cam.com/users/shortsiJEt_0t-I1s?feature=share
Hi mate with the,,,, PWM SPEED CONTROLLER you showed there is two wires inside the box ,,red and ,,black,,on a plastic plug and a large plastic plug in front the other plug with,,, red and black ,,,can be used for a kill switch from an outboard motor this will work nicely the clip will pull out it will stop Dead ✋️ 😮😮😮😊😊😊😊 I still would run a cooling fan though 😉
Good Point!
Hi mate this is why shearing is extremely good ,,,,That's what it's all about my friend shearing ideas and helpful tips 👍 👌😉
@@Piratepeteoo Yes!
There's one review so far for it on Amazon and they gave it 1 out of 5 stars. They mentioned the one screw holding the board down , the motor wires were mislabeled and something melting. I'd say, ah....NO!
I built my own with Amazon parts
Excellent!
I am still surprised my cheapo pwm from amazon has lasted 3 years .
Amazing!
I too have had flawless performance with my $17 amazon pwm with over 2 years frequent use. It’s a 60A controller but my 18lb thrust watersnake motor only pulls 16A max so it doesn’t really get hot. Your videos greatly influenced my design. Thanks for all your great ideas 💡 👍
@@saxet9049 I bet the low amp draw is key!
@@saxet9049 , mine is the watersnake t24 .
@@saxet9049whats the name of this PWM? Where did u get it? Thx
This model is a burnout soon. On my second one
Thanks for the confirmation
Can you ever recommend one? Or are all of your videos on the shit ones?
Sadly, all are on the failed unit. It worked for a few weeks and failed. That is why I added the warning. The failed unit videos will pop up in search while the warning will not. The quick solution is to upgrade the amp-hours of the trolling motor battery to make power conservation less of an issue.
It is not reliable. Do not use it. I bought and used it one trip, the wiring burnt and melt. Trash.
Thanks for that confirmation!