Inexpensive or Cheap? Review Affordable PWM Treadmill Motor Speed Controller Treadmill Power Supply
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- Опубліковано 15 гру 2023
- Lots of viewers have asked me about the inexpensive PWM motor controls available from Amazon and eBay. Not having used one i figured i would give it a shot and see how it works.
Affiliate links to items in this video:
MC60:
10K potentiometer amzn.to/3QAtiES
20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh
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15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
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DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
MC2100:
PWM signal generator for the MC 2100 amzn.to/3z3ivu3
20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh
OR
15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
Toroid Core for AC inductor/choke amzn.to/3QTk5Zs
Variable Transformer:
Variable transformer with 130 max volts amzn.to/40JAlhU
100 amp Bridge rectifier amzn.to/40DjWg6
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
Toroid Core for AC inductor/choke amzn.to/3QTk5Zs
SCR Voltage controller:
SCR voltage controller amzn.to/47vUify
100 amp Bridge rectifier amzn.to/40DjWg6
20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh
OR
15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
Toroid Core for AC inductor/choke amzn.to/3QTk5Zs
10K potentiometer amzn.to/3QAtiES
20K potentiometer amzn.to/3Srib1a
100K potentiometer amzn.to/46anc3O
150K potentiometer amzn.to/3zxc96l
Enclosures and enclosure parts:
8” X 6” X 4” hinged box amzn.to/3jPndaR
8” X 10” X 4” Power supply box amzn.to/3HEHeun
12” x 12” x 4” Large component box amzn.to/3Imerv6
7.9” x 4.7” x 2.95” Large plastic box amzn.to/3nQEylT
6.22” x 3.54” x 2.36” Medium plastic box (the one I put all the parts in) amzn.to/40JB9nn
Cable Gland amzn.to/3VZNrWb
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So what you’re saying about wiring is to work with intention and some logic instead of stupidity.
I appreciate your effort in helping to elevate those that don’t know or try to do better. Great video sir 👍🏻
Sometimes it's "stupidity" but some times they don't know what they don't know. If I can help them learn than I am all for it. Thanks for looking at my video and I am glad you liked it.
Enjoyable as is normally the case.
Whenever I build/assemble anything, wiring or whatever, I assume that sooner or later someone else may have to work on it so I try to make that easy to do by making each step as logical as I can. If something is a bit confusing I try to label it in the case of wiring or other electrical parts.
Lol, at my age someone else may have to trouble shoot sooner rather than later!
Excellent point but for me its even closer to home. "someone else"... I make it as clear as possible so I don't need to reinvent the wheel if I need to go back in and change something or replace a component. 😁 Enough years go by I can't remember exactly how it all went together and if its not properly color coded it takes a lot longer to figure everything out. @@catman4644
No question you are the #1 treadmill speed control information guru! I did notice in your video that the blue wire (aka black) that the connector that is right next to the vice appears to be arcing to the vice itself. Not sure how significant this is. Possible the wiring should have the proper ground in place. Very much appreciate your time & effort you put into your videos.
That is impressive that you noticed that, thankfully it is not aching. When I first read this I could not figure out how there would be arching to the vice because the vice isn't connected to anything so no way to "complete the circuit" I then watched the video and at first though tit was arching but after taking a zoomed in look it is actually some thin plastic hairs from the the insulated boot waving around due to the wind created by the motor. Glad you like the videos!!
FWIW I built my power supply based on your other video and it works great! My motor runs smoothly and quietly across the speed range and it does this under a fairly heavy load lifting/lowering a sawmill. One thing that's been impressive to me is how controllable the motor is at a really low speed when zeroing the saw blade at a specific height. This power supply was mounted to the saw mill frame in a box fitted with a small cooling fan blowing filtered air (due to the huge amounts of saw dust) and has been used regularly for several months now with no change in performance and no problems with heat.
So yeah I for one think you have earned your title, long live the KING!
Glad it is all working well for you and that I could help
Keep up the informative info. I'm beginning to realize what I don't know.
Glad to hear it! The way I see it is life is a a learning experience and the moment we quit learning our time is either at an end or near it. Some times the hardest part in all of this is you don't know what you don't know.
You're videos have a lot of concrete information and easy to follow. Thanks for the update and testing to inform the ignorant. LOL! Now have torn apart two treadmills in order to build a belt driven surface sander. Just need time to make it.
Glad to help
@@dazecars found a couple of large chokes in a google search. What would you recommend as minimum size in Henry's and voltage. ( wiring sizes are difficult to see in pictures?) Thanks
Good question! Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs or calculations for you on the motor choke. What I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes rainging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available online are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in one amp. Treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available online are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks and the other available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are WAY too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Forth if you are finding it through a google search if it is not listed as a "motor choke" it is likely not going to work. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.@@thomastieffenbacherdocsava1549
@@dazecars Much appreciated
👍
thanks for the video
My pleasure
Another great video Daze. Really good job.
What companies sell those TMM drives that you mention near the end of your video?
If you had a better one, how would it compare to your SCR design?
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks. KB electrics makes the PWM at around $400. The PWM has cleaner power and smoother motor operation but that’s a lot of money compared to the SCR.
Hi Daze, i have 4 treadmill motors in use around my shop - The lathe, the mill and two drill stands. All of them have these cheap Amazon or ebay PWM attached to them and are still working (the lathe for 7 years now, mill almost 6 years). These reason is not that they are good products but more that i only use %50-%60 of their capacity. The lathe treadmill motor has 220V dc and 4500rpm which i never used even with the 1:2.7 gearing. At full capacity they might blow up but considering the rpm they put out, i doubt someone will ever use that much from these PWM's. Just my experience!
great info thanks for the input. Is it the exact same PWM or a slightly different one. can you email a link?
You got me on this daze! It's 7 years ago i did this and they were sold as dimmer PWM over here for lightning purposes and i feed them with 220v AC and change the AC to DC afterwards with an bridge rectifier. They are now a part of the machines and i can't tell you when i will be digging them out unless the brake. I don't even know if they are still sold in that form.@@dazecars
OKAY that explains it!! After reading your comment I was beginning to think maybe I didn't give this PWM a fare shake but you are not using a PWM you are using an SCR and then converting to DC. The SCR voltage controller is what I recommend in so many of my videos because it cuts the power on the AC side rather than the DC side. This allows you to have for more amps and for things to run a lot cooler. This PWM is strait DC which is why it is limited by amps and produces so much heat. I can totally see why you thought it was the same thing as the SCR and the PWM look very similar from the outside.@@Mustsed
Sorry for the wrong info, yes it is a cheap SCR dimmer. Have been confused by the Arduino controlled PWM controller i used for the X axis stepper of the mill. Too much time passed to remember correctly, sorry@@dazecars
its all good, I appreciate the commets.@@Mustsed
The input 80VAC is the rms, which becomes 113VDC when rectified plus smoothing capacitors (rms * sqrt of 2), thats above the specs for the pwm controller. you can set the variac to 56.6VAC rms , that will have a peak voltage of 80VDC when rectified plus the built in caps in the pwm controller.
Those are all excellent point however given that the label on my variac is not accurate, it doesn't have a digital voltage readout, and because I new that rectified voltage can change a little bit I set the voltage with my multimeter on the DC side and I set it a little under the 80V spec. I didn't want a power spike or other issue with the PWM. The cap failed immediately when the PWM nob was turned up so my theory of a bad component is still the most plausible explanation. Thanks again for the comment they are excellent points that should be considered when setting voltage in a situation like this.
Great explanation of using the cheaper pwm. I have been bench testing a 2hp Baldor treadmill motor using two 10A DC 48 V psu's tied in series, these units both have 0-50 voltage pots. Either pot can control the motor speed easy. I have also fed 55 volts to a $23 pwm controller to the same motor with good results. All testing was with no loads applied. Motor, psu or pwm never got warm at all after 20 minutes running.
I wonder if the DC feeding your pwm just wasn't clean enough & needed better filtering before the pwm. My end use will be on a bench type drill press & a 2nd pwm on an old metal lathe.
I have about $100 invested in the 2 psu's & 1 PWM buying from Amazon & $120 for the Baldor motor off eBay. Have you experimented with this type of clean dc power?
My power was clean because the variable transformer steps the voltage down but does not hack it up like other supplies. The failed cap was likely a bad component. Be carful running those in series as you are now running more voltage through to PWM than it was designed to handle.
How can I send you content of a project Im work on? Your knowledge on these motors is awesome.
I'm retired and love making things with DC motors.
Contact me through my website
contact me through my website
I completely agree! While testing did you see a need for a choke?
The capacitor failed on the very first fire up so I knew it was not likely a good option early on. Because of that I didn't look at things like brush sparking BUT given how smooth the motor was running I think its a safe bet that the pawer was very clean and a choke was probably not needed. PWM is far superior in the quality of power but occulting that much DC takes heave duty components and that is why a good PWM is so very expensive.
I have one of these PWM controllers, but it is driving a windshield wiper motor on a rotary weld positioner and works fine at 12v dc and only draws a couple of amps. Love the videos and great information. I have learned most of what I know about treadmill motor control from your channel. Thankyou.@@dazecars
I think it would be an outstanding speed controller for smaller motors like the one you are using.
How do I know what size chokes I need and what size circuit breaker for a 130v motor
Simple if it is not labeled as a "motor choke" it is WAY too small. Almost all chokes except those us for motors are small components so if one is truly big enough it will be labeled as such. I would bace you circuit breaker size on the house circuit breaker size for the outlet you are lugging into and make it the same or a little less.
Hello, can you please give me a link to operate the treadmill motor, because I am lost and cannot get the exact idea, with all thanks and appreciation.
This should help ua-cam.com/video/m0cLqKg1byI/v-deo.htmlsi=cIXEHlRjKakgykni
Oh, one more question. What variable transformer would you recommend?
P
Link for all the needed parts in the description