Fantastic video! Going to do all the brakes on my 98 V70 (UK) and this is very helpful. My discs (rotors!) arrived today so looking forward to doing this job :D
Hi, 2000 Volvo v70 XC LE. I am going replace Brake pads & rotor disks, front & some rear, and hoses as well. Please let me know what kind additional parts I have to get (like pins and other things)? Thanks!
Nice video, thanks. I have a 95 850 turbo and right rear brake makes a rubbing sound, especially when in reverse or going around turn. Seems to be binding too. Pull the e-brake a little and noise gets worse (changes). Does that sound like the ebrake is stuck or broken? Car just passed inspection so rear pads and rotor are apparently good. thx.
a change in the sound when applying the ebrake would have me start looking at the ebrake pads as the source of the noise. while your there might want to check the rear bearing as well (due to noise around turns) dragging brakes can also cause that wheel to be excessively hot. BTW some times inspections miss some things.
Yes and no you can just replace pads and go if the brake pedal is firm and not spongy or low. If the pedal is not good you have to bleed them. But it is better to open the bleeder when pushing in the piston so the dirty fluid does not get pushed back to the master cylinder. Dont release the clamp from the piston until the bleeder is closed or you may get air back in. The ideal way is to bleed the whole system when you are done basically you changing the break fluid as well. so its kind of like 3 ways to go Ok, Better, and Best, If the bleeders are frozen might just skip it Especially if its an older car you might not keep for more than a year or too.
Why dont we turn rotors? In our area, cost of turning rotors is only about $10 less than new rotors, my parts store told me they hadnt turned their cutting machine on in months, it was for an old Pick up restoration.
I've done this on an old Volvo V40 and an old Ford Focus but never on a Volvo 850. I have a 1998 Volvo V70 and I need to change the whole rear brake kit. Edit: The brake kit was more expensive that the car itself.
Ty brother! I just subbed. I used this vid to replace the rear pads and rotors on my Mom's 1994 Volvo 850. This video saved me a ton of time and headaches! GOD bless you and Jesus Christ is King!
I never "lubed" the back of the pad. I have used anti squeak spray in the past but have not lately. The plates included with most brake pads appear to do the job just fine.
If you keep the old caliper make sure to clean the holes for the pins, it is easy to crack the "ears" when you hammer in the pin if there are rust and dirt in the holes. Also use copper paste on the sides of the brake pads, not grease. NOT ON THE FRICTION MATERIAL.
This has got to be the worst DIY video that I've seen, for a brake pads & rotor change. I'm not too sure why he's using carpentry tools, when even Harbor Freight has the correct tools for cheap. Also, the set screw IS a 10mm; if you had to use a 09mm socket to remove it, that means that it's really either worn down or rounded off. And last, even a genuine Volvo caliper from a salvage yard, would last longer than an aftermarket brand. Not to mention, both the caliper & a genuine brake rotor, include two 13mm bolts with red Loctite on them. Yes, they want you to replace the bolts when replacing the rotor. And for Christ sake, please do not use grease on bolts intended to be held in with Loctite.
Looking at doing my 850 rear brakes soon. This is a great video! Thank you.
Great video - many thanks.
Fantastic video! Going to do all the brakes on my 98 V70 (UK) and this is very helpful. My discs (rotors!) arrived today so looking forward to doing this job :D
Exact same problem on my parents volvo 850 :) Outer pad was totaled.
Nice video, did you have to bleed the new caliper?
Hi,
2000 Volvo v70 XC LE.
I am going replace Brake pads & rotor disks, front & some rear, and hoses as well.
Please let me know what kind additional parts I have to get (like pins and other things)?
Thanks!
Nice video, thanks. I have a 95 850 turbo and right rear brake makes a rubbing sound, especially when in reverse or going around turn. Seems to be binding too. Pull the e-brake a little and noise gets worse (changes). Does that sound like the ebrake is stuck or broken? Car just passed inspection so rear pads and rotor are apparently good. thx.
a change in the sound when applying the ebrake would have me start looking at the ebrake pads as the source of the noise. while your there might want to check the rear bearing as well (due to noise around turns) dragging brakes can also cause that wheel to be excessively hot. BTW some times inspections miss some things.
Do I need to bleed the breaks after I am done with the replacement?
Yes and no you can just replace pads and go if the brake pedal is firm and not spongy or low. If the pedal is not good you have to bleed them. But it is better to open the bleeder when pushing in the piston so the dirty fluid does not get pushed back to the master cylinder. Dont release the clamp from the piston until the bleeder is closed or you may get air back in. The ideal way is to bleed the whole system when you are done basically you changing the break fluid as well. so its kind of like 3 ways to go Ok, Better, and Best, If the bleeders are frozen might just skip it Especially if its an older car you might not keep for more than a year or too.
Why dont we turn rotors? In our area, cost of turning rotors is only about $10 less than new rotors, my parts store told me they hadnt turned their cutting machine on in months, it was for an old Pick up restoration.
I've done this on an old Volvo V40 and an old Ford Focus but never on a Volvo 850. I have a 1998 Volvo V70 and I need to change the whole rear brake kit.
Edit: The brake kit was more expensive that the car itself.
Ty brother! I just subbed. I used this vid to replace the rear pads and rotors on my Mom's 1994 Volvo 850. This video saved me a ton of time and headaches! GOD bless you and Jesus Christ is King!
you dont have to lube where the backside of the pad contacts the caliper? or is the squeaker plate good enough. good video.
I never "lubed" the back of the pad. I have used anti squeak spray in the past but have not lately. The plates included with most brake pads appear to do the job just fine.
If you keep the old caliper make sure to clean the holes for the pins, it is easy to crack the "ears" when you hammer in the pin if there are rust and dirt in the holes.
Also use copper paste on the sides of the brake pads, not grease. NOT ON THE FRICTION MATERIAL.
This has got to be the worst DIY video that I've seen, for a brake pads & rotor change. I'm not too sure why he's using carpentry tools, when even Harbor Freight has the correct tools for cheap. Also, the set screw IS a 10mm; if you had to use a 09mm socket to remove it, that means that it's really either worn down or rounded off. And last, even a genuine Volvo caliper from a salvage yard, would last longer than an aftermarket brand. Not to mention, both the caliper & a genuine brake rotor, include two 13mm bolts with red Loctite on them. Yes, they want you to replace the bolts when replacing the rotor. And for Christ sake, please do not use grease on bolts intended to be held in with Loctite.