I did this on my late 60's Mad River fiberglass canoe last summer. I got a 17 foot 1 X 12 clear Douglass Fir former school gym bleacher seat from my local Re-Store. The woodwork was done last fall, but I'm just now repairing the seats. Hope to have her in the water this summer!!
Watco makes an exterior grade finish that is more durable. I have a Mad River and the Watco just did not last. I ended up going with a Marine gloss finish (a kind of “soft varnish”) that I can reapply without sanding or stripping. My new canoe has aluminum gunnels. I’m just tired of dealing with refinishing the gunnels. I have also owned a wood and canvas canoe and loved the beauty, but now I’m using a solo Kevlar canoe with aluminum gunnels. I’m 73 and wanted the lightest canoe possible. I found a light boat meant I used it more. I no longer do whitewater so the Kevlar is durable enough. You’ve done a great job saving this canoe!
I use all different types of finishes and this time I have chosen Watco Danish Oil. I didn’t want to tint the wood too much and wanted to keep it as naturally light as possible. I will use a clear coat varnish most likely an epifanes clear coat over the already oiled wood. I fully understand the weight concerns with carrying a canoe. I reached my limits a couple times last season. I feel I am still young enough to get into better tripping shape for the next 5-10 years and then I will most likely have a canoe similar to yours for weight purposes. Appreciate you taking the time to comment and watch the video. Happy New Year!
thanks for making these videos MaineTripper! i picked up a mad river guide earlier this year in somewhat rough shape - discolored hull, gunwales and decks are toast, and a few random holes drilled into the sides where a previous owner boogered in a whitewater saddle. i'm sure i'll come back to these videos again and again as i try to fix it up.
The Mad River Guide is a good Choice for solo paddling. I hope you get the opportunity to enjoy the canoe to the fullest. Restoring a canoe is very rewarding and gives the canoe new life. Thanks for watching and certainly happy that you found the videos useful.
Thanks Craig! There is something truly rewarding about saving a canoe from the scrap heap. Happy New Year to you and your wife as well! Be well my friend!
I've never splice gunwales, nice jig for doing that. I have my mill and access to full length trees mostly spruce for such things not much ash up this way in my woods, I would have to look around for it. it sure looks pretty, good stuff. If you get downeast this spring I know some small streams to run if you are interested.
The jig was very useful in this case. Ash lumber is a nice looking specie of wood and is strong as I am sure you know. Downeast is loaded with Spruce. I used spruce for the gunwales on the Chestnut Chum. It is a bit lighter. I never really know what my plans will be but I am certain I will head downeast once again. Still haven’t learned to pole a canoe yet. I need to learn. Thanks for leaving a comment. Happy New Year!
Like minds! I hope to improve my jig with an improved version with proper locking capabilities of the work piece. A few T-Tracks and some quick snap clamps should do the trick. This jig, however got me through the scarfing for this project with no issues. It can be improved though.
I would recommend a #8 silicon bronze screw. The length of the screw is dependent on the thickness of your gunwales. Silicon bronze screws when securing in a hard wood can heat up and break. It doesn’t have to be soap but some form of lubrication is necessary in most cases.
I’m watching your video again. I bought my supplies. I was able to get the same paint.I also got 20 foot lengths of ash,so I’ll rip them down. How did the Watco oil work out?
I ended up using a spar varnish instead. The Watco oil I purchased was the incorrect oil at the time so I went ahead and used on hand Spar Varnish instead.
Why say not to reuse the original screw holes? I’m replacing the trim on a Hornbeck kevlar carbon hull. Can’t see any reason to drill more holes. Perhaps epoxy the original holes to reseal/strengthen them?
It is common practice to make and use new holes. If the holes are not too badly worn then try using a filler like you mentioned and go for it. I have not worked with Kevlar canoe so I was speaking only to a Royalex application. You might be fine with reusing the holes. With a wood and canvas canoe or Royalex canoe it is best to avoid using the same holes. There are a lot of factors also which include will the inwale and outwale be replaced or just the outwale. You need some bite into new wood to ensure absolute integrity.
@@mainetripper Thanks for the quick reply. I am replacing all the wood and using new ss screws. The original holes are very small and at this point I am inclined to use them again which should maintain the integrity of the surrounding material. Any holes that are frayed from the rail being loose (had a few broken screws) will get fresh epoxy. Trying to duplicate how the builder did things. The wales in my case are three pieces, 1/2” thick 3/4” tall each. 1 outer with a kerf inside for the hull to lay in, a full inner that the outer is attached to, and then a shorter inside piece about 8’ long to provide wale width for the seats thwarts and yoke to attach to. The solid end caps are installed first, just stapled thru the hull to set them in place. The wood is Cherry, about the lightest hardwood available. The boat is 14 feet long and weighs just over 30lbs. Thanks again.
@ nice, I’m replacing all woodworking on a 16’ keewaydin fiberglass canoe I got for free. From your guidance I just scarfed the ash and trimmed inner gunwales
Yes I realized that after the fact and will be putting on a clear coat varnish after the seats, carrying yoke and carrying handles are ready. This will be in the next video.
Mccloskey Man o' war spar varnish works excellent for exterior above waterline wood, I been painting for 25 years and use it on exterior wood as a top coat or a sealer and works wonderful, not one customer has called to say the finish is ruined, I used it also on my 87 kingfisher boat top hull and worked great too. *REPENT FOR THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN IS AT HAND*
Thanks for the recommendation. I can’t say that I have used the Man O’ war product but I have certainly seen it. Perhaps in the future I will consider it or at least give it a shot. I am always open to trying new things and with the vast options available on the market a testimonial like yours is appreciated. Thanks!
I did this on my late 60's Mad River fiberglass canoe last summer. I got a 17 foot 1 X 12 clear Douglass Fir former school gym bleacher seat from my local Re-Store. The woodwork was done last fall, but I'm just now repairing the seats. Hope to have her in the water this summer!!
Nice score on the bleacher seat for the gunwales etc…. Should last you quite some time.
Soon to start a gunnel replacement project on my 16’ prospector MEC canoe….your video now added to my research on it! Thanks a lot!
Best of luck on your project! Thanks for watching and certainly glad to hear the video may help you with your success! All the best!
Nice work!… doing a Reno on a 16’ Nova and got some good ideas from your vid
Thanks
@@DEVILFISH1122 Best of luck with your project! Happy to hear you found the videos helpful!
nice work, thanks for just a good film.
Appreciate the comment! Glad you liked the video!
Watco makes an exterior grade finish that is more durable. I have a Mad River and the Watco just did not last. I ended up going with a Marine gloss finish (a kind of “soft varnish”) that I can reapply without sanding or stripping. My new canoe has aluminum gunnels. I’m just tired of dealing with refinishing the gunnels. I have also owned a wood and canvas canoe and loved the beauty, but now I’m using a solo Kevlar canoe with aluminum gunnels. I’m 73 and wanted the lightest canoe possible. I found a light boat meant I used it more. I no longer do whitewater so the Kevlar is durable enough. You’ve done a great job saving this canoe!
I use all different types of finishes and this time I have chosen Watco Danish Oil. I didn’t want to tint the wood too much and wanted to keep it as naturally light as possible. I will use a clear coat varnish most likely an epifanes clear coat over the already oiled wood. I fully understand the weight concerns with carrying a canoe. I reached my limits a couple times last season. I feel I am still young enough to get into better tripping shape for the next 5-10 years and then I will most likely have a canoe similar to yours for weight purposes. Appreciate you taking the time to comment and watch the video. Happy New Year!
thanks for making these videos MaineTripper! i picked up a mad river guide earlier this year in somewhat rough shape - discolored hull, gunwales and decks are toast, and a few random holes drilled into the sides where a previous owner boogered in a whitewater saddle. i'm sure i'll come back to these videos again and again as i try to fix it up.
The Mad River Guide is a good
Choice for solo paddling. I hope you get the opportunity to enjoy the canoe to the fullest. Restoring a canoe is very rewarding and gives the canoe new life. Thanks for watching and certainly happy that you found the videos useful.
Looking great ! Happy New Year
Thanks Craig! There is something truly rewarding about saving a canoe from the scrap heap. Happy New Year to you and your wife as well! Be well my friend!
Looking good !! Around Bend Oregon out !
I've never splice gunwales, nice jig for doing that. I have my mill and access to full length trees mostly spruce for such things not much ash up this way in my woods, I would have to look around for it. it sure looks pretty, good stuff. If you get downeast this spring I know some small streams to run if you are interested.
The jig was very useful in this case. Ash lumber is a nice looking specie of wood and is strong as I am sure you know. Downeast is loaded with Spruce. I used spruce for the gunwales on the Chestnut Chum. It is a bit lighter. I never really know what my plans will be but I am certain I will head downeast once again. Still haven’t learned to pole a canoe yet. I need to learn. Thanks for leaving a comment. Happy New Year!
I use a very similar jig on the table saw for splicing my gunnels.
Like minds! I hope to improve my jig with an improved version with proper locking capabilities of the work piece. A few T-Tracks and some quick snap clamps should do the trick. This jig, however got me through the scarfing for this project with no issues. It can be improved though.
I like the tip where you suggested dipping the screws in dish soap. Could you recommend a screw for this please? From Ontario
I would recommend a #8 silicon bronze screw. The length of the screw is dependent on the thickness of your gunwales. Silicon bronze screws when securing in a hard wood can heat up and break. It doesn’t have to be soap but some form of lubrication is necessary in most cases.
@@mainetripper That is great information,thank you
I’m watching your video again. I bought my supplies. I was able to get the same paint.I also got 20 foot lengths of ash,so I’ll rip them down. How did the Watco oil work out?
I ended up using a spar varnish instead. The Watco oil I purchased was the incorrect oil at the time so I went ahead and used on hand Spar Varnish instead.
@@mainetripper Ok thanks. Your canoe restorations are very good
Why say not to reuse the original screw holes? I’m replacing the trim on a Hornbeck kevlar carbon hull. Can’t see any reason to drill more holes. Perhaps epoxy the original holes to reseal/strengthen them?
It is common practice to make and use new holes. If the holes are not too badly worn then try using a filler like you mentioned and go for it. I have not worked with Kevlar canoe so I was speaking only to a Royalex application. You might be fine with reusing the holes. With a wood and canvas canoe or Royalex canoe it is best to avoid using the same holes. There are a lot of factors also which include will the inwale and outwale be replaced or just the outwale. You need some bite into new wood to ensure absolute integrity.
@@mainetripper Thanks for the quick reply. I am replacing all the wood and using new ss screws. The original holes are very small and at this point I am inclined to use them again which should maintain the integrity of the surrounding material. Any holes that are frayed from the rail being loose (had a few broken screws) will get fresh epoxy. Trying to duplicate how the builder did things. The wales in my case are three pieces, 1/2” thick 3/4” tall each. 1 outer with a kerf inside for the hull to lay in, a full inner that the outer is attached to, and then a shorter inside piece about 8’ long to provide wale width for the seats thwarts and yoke to attach to. The solid end caps are installed first, just stapled thru the hull to set them in place. The wood is Cherry, about the lightest hardwood available. The boat is 14 feet long and weighs just over 30lbs. Thanks again.
Best of luck. Epoxy can work wonders! Let me know how it turns out. Very curious about the result. Have a great day!
Hey, what type of screw did you use ?
On the Eclipse I used #8 1 1/4” Stainless Screws. On a wood canvas restoration I will use Silicon Bronze screws also #8
@ nice, I’m replacing all woodworking on a 16’ keewaydin fiberglass canoe I got for free. From your guidance I just scarfed the ash and trimmed inner gunwales
You want the TEAK WATCO for your gunnels. What you have there is for Interior.
Yes I realized that after the fact and will be putting on a clear coat varnish after the seats, carrying yoke and carrying handles are ready. This will be in the next video.
Watco exterior version works.
@BradBurden I don’t usually use oil and prefer varnish. However I did make an original mistake buy purchasing the wrong product.
@@mainetripper I'm curious how well varnish adheres to the surface over oil? I've applied varnish over epoxy, but not oil.
I don’t think it will work very well. I don’t recommend it anyway.
Mccloskey Man o' war spar varnish works excellent for exterior above waterline wood, I been painting for 25 years and use it on exterior wood as a top coat or a sealer and works wonderful, not one customer has called to say the finish is ruined, I used it also on my 87 kingfisher boat top hull and worked great too.
*REPENT FOR THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN IS AT HAND*
Thanks for the recommendation. I can’t say that I have used the Man O’ war product but I have certainly seen it. Perhaps in the future I will consider it or at least give it a shot. I am always open to trying new things and with the vast options available on the market a testimonial like yours is appreciated. Thanks!
Very nice. Is the gunwale ash wood pre dried or green?
The rough cut ash lumber has been dried for quite some time.
@@mainetripper thanks