Wood Finish Identification & Finish Repair (oil, shellac, lacquer, and poly/varnish) | How To
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 лип 2019
- There are different types of wood finishes and most of them don’t work together so if you need to touch up a finish, how do you identify what the finish is?
You can test the finish in a specific sequence. The first type of finish to test is oil. The main types of oil finishes are Boiled Linseed oil, Tung oil, and Danish oil. Any of these are compatible with each other and its easy to identify an oil finish. Put a drop of oil on the finish and let it sit for a few minutes. If it absorbs into the wood, it’s an oil finish. If it doesn’t, you have a shellac, lacquer, or poly/varnish type of finish.
Another hint to identify the finish is the furniture itself. Oil finishes are more common on fine furniture and mid-century modern furniture, so consider the piece you working on. If you see the grain of the wood in the surface of the finish instead of a solid film, it’s likely an oil finish.
If you’ve done the oil test on your piece, and it’s not an oil finish, the next thing to test for is a shellac finish. It’s important you test your finish in this order to determine what it is because some solvents work on multiple finishes.
To test for a shellac finish, you need to use a drop of denatured alcohol. Let it sit for a a few minutes, then try to dab it up with a rag or paper towel. If the surface is sticky and mushy, it’s a shellac finish. Shellac finishes are common on antiques, so that’s a hint when you look at the furniture.
The third test is to see if the finish is a lacquer. Lacquer is a common modern finish because it dries quickly, which means less chance for dust to settle on it and a higher rate of production in manufacturing. It’s not a common DIY finish because it is very toxic and usually applied with spray equipment.
To identify a lacquer finish, you need to place a drop of lacquer thinner on the piece. After about 20 seconds, dab it with a rag or paper towel to see if it’s sticky. If it is, you have a lacquer finish. If it isn’t, you have a polyurethane or varnish finish.
A polyurethane or varnish finish forms a protective plastic film. You need some very strong chemicals to soften the finish, which is why I suggest testing in the order of oil, then shellac, and then lacquer. By process of elimination, if nothing softens the finish, it’s polyurethane or varnish. Polyurethane and varnish will chip where the other finishes typically won’t.
How do you repair these finishes? Repairing an oil finish is simple. Just apply a new coat of oil.
Repairing a shellac finish is also easy, it’s just a matter of cleaning off the surface with warm water and a mild detergent such as dish soap, and then applying a new coat of shellac.
To repair a lacquer finish, I clean the surface with mineral spirits to remove any oil or grease. I show how to repair a lacquer finish in a separate video - • Lacquer Finish Repair ...
To repair a polyurethane or varnish finish, the new coat of finish sits on top, so it needs something to grab on to. Sand the old finish with 400 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface and then apply a new coat. I show how to repair a polyurethane finish as part of a Windsor chair restoration in this video - • Restoration of an Amer...
Fixing Furniture is not only a UA-cam channel but it's also a membership community. Get access to videos before they're published on UA-cam, watch all the videos without ads, get downloadable reference sheets, and participate in Fixing Furniture Live every two weeks. Learn more about membership at www.fixingfurniture.com
OUR NEWSLETTER - Sign up at www.fixingfurniture.com
See the tools we use in our workshop and the tools we recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/homeimpro...
🇨🇦 Canadian link - www.amazon.ca/shop/homeimprov...
This video is hosted by Scott Bennett, Owner of Wooden It Be Nice - Furniture Repair in Brooklin, Ontario, Canada. WoodenItBeNice.ca
#woodfinish #polyurethane #shellac - Навчання та стиль
I have a mid-century walnut table that I wanted to find out the finish as I wanted to re-new rather than start from new. This was super helpful. It was lacquer. A million thanks!
I needed a scientific method/ comprehensive education on this subject, from context of repair rather than refinish. This was a perfect delivery of the content with great jumping off points for the next content
Thank you so much . I have a bunch of old furniture from my great-grandmother and the finish needs some tlc but I had no clue what to use/do. So happy I found your channel.
‘I’ve spent hours and hours looking for how to test a finish. You can’t learn this process in jumbled bits and pieces because the testing needs to be done in a sequence. This video is so incredibly helpful. You are without a doubt my favorite woodworker on UA-cam. Thank you so much for providing free information. You’ve made my life so much easier!
Wish I had found this channel earlier. You have unlocked the mystery of our 135 year old table!
I've understood the concept, but seeing how you actually spotted the material on the finish and WAITED 3 minutes was golden. Thanks!
Great sequence tip, I like it. Also, if you can't mamage to have solvents, but have a UV light in hand, flsh it over surfaces in the dark, and whatever glows orange is more likely shellac.
Great tip! Thank you!
Is there no need to distinguish between polyurethane and varnish finishes when it comes to over-coating the existing finish? Can I scuff sand a polyurethane finish and over-coat it with a varnish, and vice versa? And finally, what about Minwax Polycrylic?
Great video. Paint Thinners = Turpentine used for normal oil paints, varnishes and polyurethane. Lacquer and 'sand and seal' are nitro cellulose and need lacquer thinner for thinning. Denatured alcohol = Methylated spirits (UK and Ireland) is used in shellacs and can be used to make waxes instead of turpentine. Back in the 70's and 80's Methylated spirits had to be regulated because people used to drink it. Oils (Teak, Tung, Linseed and Danish) allow wood to breath somewhat. Mineral oil is the favorite for end grain chopping boards etc. It is food save and hydrates the wood. It is also used in creams, lotions and ointments etc. I now live in The Philippines where I will be soon teaching fine woodworking
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and terminology from the UK. Good luck with your teaching - that sounds fun! Scott
Can acetone be used to test for lacquer?
Found this site this morning by accident repairing a 1870s chair. Boy wish I found it years ago. Fantastic videos buddy, I'll continue my viewing eagerly, thankyou.
Glad you found it helpful John. I hope our other videos are as useful for you. Cheers. Scott
I've watched this video repeatedly. So useful
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
I really in joy these videos. Thanks for for sharing!
Thank you Samuel. I appreciate you taking the time to post a comment and show your support for our work! Scott
So very helpful. Subscribed!
I have an early 1900s rolltop desk im refurbishing and wasn't sure how I was going to refresh it you.
Wow this is EXACTLY what I needed, and so well done. Wish I had found you sooner!
Another great video. You are a great teacher and provide vast knowledge that is second to none. I have 35+ years in painting and decorating, so I hope my word means a lot to anyone who watches your posts. Many thanks.
Wow, thank you! I appreciate that! Scott
Very concise and helpful. Thanks!
Wow, great video! Some of the best I’ve seen are from this channel!
Thanks Richard! Scott
Awesome video, thanks! Really helpful.
Excellent. Just what I was looking for. Thank you.
Thanks very much for the videos, they’ve helped a lot in my restoration of an antique rocker my family passed down.
Very easy on the ears and super informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Scott
What a fantastic video. Offering great information and value
very helpful and detailed explanation. great to note the importance of doing it in the right order. thank you for sharing!
Glad to hear you found this helpful. Thanks for sharing that! Scott
This is a really helpful video, thank you so much. I definitely subscribed.
This is such a fantastic video. I’ve been following your channel for years now and this is one of the videos I keep coming back to.
Thank you! This is really informative and well organized.
Glad you enjoyed it! Scott
Love this video! Thank you so much. This single video just gave me the answers to 3 projects I’ve been needing to finish but hesitant because I’m new to restoring and / or painting furniture. I subscribed and will share. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for subscribing Dawn! Scott
Thank you so much! 😃 This information is invaluable to a newbie furniture refinisher and explained in a way that's easy to understand.
Glad to hear it was helpful Kimberly. Thanks for the supportive comment. Scott
thank you for these videos! very instructive
You're welcome. It's nice to hear you're finding them useful. Scott
Simply excellent explanation that I've seen elsewhere. Both Simple & Excellent! Many thanks.
Wonderful....now I gotta get to making a few repairs I have been putting off because I could not identify for sure what finish was used.
Thanks a MILLION!
Outstanding video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us.
Glad you enjoyed it! Scott
This popped into my recommendations. I wasn't particularly looking for it but had in mind to fix the finish of the foot-board to my bed. It's an Ethan Allen French Country Slay-bed from the 80's. Wear is showing on the top of the foot-board from placing things over it and I use to sit in bed with damp long damp hair and the finish in that spot on the head-board is damaged too. I don't mind some nature wear on furniture, but now it's looking very tired. I have some woodworking knowledge to build, but little on repair. Thanks for the tip, I wasn't sure what finish it was and your other videos showed me how to approach the wear on the finish. Looks more like it's chipped away.
Scotty, love your channel! I'm addicted. Bingeing on your vids. 👍
Glad you like them Pete!
Honestly, this is so well explained and through… I have to share your channel with my friends 🙌
Your videos are very informative and explained very clearly, thank you .
Glad you like them! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Great tutorial ! Thank you for the information.
You're welcome. I'm happy you found this useful. Thanks for posting your comment! Scott
Great video, thanks!
Great video!
Perfect, just what i needed!
That's great to hear. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Fantastic video. Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Scott
Extremely helpful! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
@@FixingFurniture for sure. Trying to figure out how to refinish some original mid century doors in my house without breaking out the sandpaper (thin veneer). How does one tell the difference between a varnish and poly? Does it matter if I just want it gone?
Thank you! This is a remarkably well done, informative, no-nonsense and easy to follow video. I have a friend's danish modern dresser to refinish and this was *exactly* what I needed, as I wasn't sure what the original finish is.
Thank you for your tutorial videos. They are very helpful.
I am looking for guidance regarding two areas on a second-hand dining table I purchased and would like to make some minor repairs on without causing more damage. After watching your video I am pretty sure the table has a polyurethane finish. The 60" round tabletop is solid wood but appears to be topped with particleboard sections covered by veneer to create a slat design (Imagine a round table separated into quarters and slats running on a 45°angle toward the center, creating 90° angles with the quarters next to it).
1: Two of the tips of the slatted sections are missing veneer and appear to have gotten moisture under them because they are raised. They are small areas, but I would like to flatten the raised area without causing greater damage to the table. After flattening them, I am considering using a marker to replace the wood color.
2: There appears to be a very small amount of silver paint (or something) on the tabletop that does not come off with polishing. I would like to remove it without removing the finish of the table.
I should say I have NO experience with wood working or repair and would like to do the project as economically and simply as possible (and did I mention I don't want to cause greater damage?)
Really helpful guide.
Thanks for the tutorial sir
Great video, thank you for posting - Do you have a remedy for a waterbase poly that appears slightly cloudy?
thank you for this video i liked and subbed just because this helped me
Very educational!
Glad it was helpful! Scott
This as always been something I couldn’t get my head round and I’m share there are many others just like me would it be possible to put this in print in just the same way you’ve just described and thanks for all your efforts in making these videos thanks from the Uk
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look at adding that to our website. Scott
Awsome video!
Glad you enjoyed it. Scott
fantastic video.
Thank you. Scott
What finish would you recommend to a woodworker who needed to finish a dining room table they built knowing that eventually it would need to be refinished down the road?
Excellent video
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I'm touching up some musical instruments, also trying to figure out how to restore the finish of a 100 year old German zither in good condition except for its finish. Research indicates it's probably shellac, but I will test it. (I don't feel I need a luthier just yet! ) This was VERY valuable info, presented very clearly. Thanks!
You’re welcome. Good luck with your project. Scott
Super helpful
Glad it helped
I had this small wooden statue from Hokkaido Japan ( I think it's an oil finish) , can I use "baby oil/mineral oil" to test? before I buy a can of Tung Oil. I learned a lot from your videos! Thank You
Very good. Right on
Thank you! Scott
You are the best
Thanks for the complement Jorge. Scott
I'm now ready to refinish a side table that is quadruple ugly. Thank you for the lesson.
we purchased a 100 year old Victorian home and I want to repair the dents and scratches in the wood work of the baseboards and the pocket doors. I'm pretty sure its shellac but I will test as in this video. My question is how do I repair the dents and scratches? Do I use wax? Wood filler? Do I remove the shellac first? Thank you, and great video, very helpful.
If the marks are on painted surfaces, I would use a wood filler. If it's a wood finish, my go-to tool is burn-in wood fillers as you can match the color after the finish is applied. Here's a video that shows burn-in wood fillers. ua-cam.com/video/XIZs7JJXZ5s/v-deo.html
I'm wondering about a wax finish, how would you test for that? I guess repair is then just to reapply and rub in more wax?
Firstly, in the UK, denatured alcohol is known as methylated spirits. Secondly, if it is coated with polyurethane or varnish finish, then surely the oil drop won't be absorbed either because the latter puts in the impermiable barrier on top of the wood. That said, as usual, a very useful video. Thanks for posting it.
Thanks for the UK terminology Gwyn. I'm sure that's helpful for other viewers. Cheers, Scott
Thank you
Heard about you from the Thomas Johnson site. Subscribed !
Thanks for subscribing Deb. Tom is a wonderful craftsman!
I really enjoy your channel and I found this video particularly helpful. I have a question re: finishing oil and oil-based wood filler putty. I'm in the process of refurbishing the tabletop of an extendable round teak dining table. I've sanded it down and plan on finishing it with tung oil. I'm currently at a standstill because I need to repair some gouges on the inner edge of the table where the two semi-circle halves meet. I'm trying to determine a) if I should use water or oil-based wood filler/putty, b) if the tung oil will take better to one or the other, and c) if I should color match the filler before or after I apply the first coat of tung oil. Any insights on how I might move forward?
Water-based wood filler will work with oil finishes, but not the other way around. Depending on the damaged area, it may be easier to fix with hot wax sticks after the finish is applied to match the finish. Wood fillers take finishes differently so if you choose to go that route, I suggest doing a test first with the finish on top to see how it works. I hope that helps. Scott
For the first test, would any oil work (cooking oil)? I am trying to avoid buying a quart of oil for a single drop test and use something around the house if possible.
Nice job
Thank you! Scott
I followed the video and tested for oil and then shellac. The alcohol took the finish off but also some of the color. could it be that it was a colored shellac? btw thanks for all you do.
Yes, you're correct. That's exactly what happened. Powered stains mix well with shellac, so the colour and finish were applied at the same time. I hope that helps. Scott
Finally! Now I have a way of testing the odds and ends I pick up and want to refinish. This is such an easy and common sense video to follow. Thanks so much for posting it!
You're welcome Nathalie. I'm glad you found it helpful. Scott
i applied denatured alcohol - it didn't seem sticky to me but it did lighten quite a bit. I want to make sure if it is shellac. Thank you for your great info.
You may have just cleaned off some dirt. Shellac will get soft and sticky with denatured alcohol. I hope that helps. Scott
Is there also a way to determine if your table is finished with Beeswax? Thank you for your video!
Thank you for your videos! I have several pieces of Ethan Allen furniture from the late 60s or early 70s that need refinishing. I am trying to determine the finish. Tung oil does not absorb. Denatured alcohol does seem to soften and remove the finish - my rag turns brown. Lacquer thinner also softens the finish. Could these pieces be shellac underneath lacquer? Thank you for any information that you can provide.
Very informative. Nice speaking style. I like no music. Only quibble. Ah! Shellac, Lacquer, Polyurethane are all types of varnishes. I am in the school that considers varnish a general category. In addition. when you just say varnish, what do you mean? What sort of varnish.
very good video thanks. i have a modern piece that a drop of perfume totally dissolved the finish. any thoughts?
Awesome. I would love to be involved in furniture design and repair. 🥰
That's great. It's something I'm really passionate about. I hope our videos help you learn the craft. Scott
I have a tabletop that is finished with dewaxed shellac, not french polish but brushed on. Over that it has 3 coats of polyurethane. I am sure of this finish because I applied it myself. The table now has 3 small circular areas where the finish was eaten away by something. I am wondering what is the best way to go about repairing those spots?
THANX!
Thanks for your video. After watching I learned my MCM table has a shellac finish. I got denatured alcohol to remove the finish but wonder the best way to apply it and then clean the remnants. Last, I’m going to refinish with teak oil (the table is very similar to the MCM coffee table from your other video). My teak oil says to mix with teak prep. Is that necessary? I dont have that and am struggling to find. Thanks! Really appreciate your helpful vids!
Hi. To remove the old shellac, you can apply the denatured alcohol and scrub it with steel wool or synthetic steel wool. As for the Teak oil, I'm not familiar with Teak Prep so I can't offer any advice there. Sorry. Scott
very useful, thanks, I'm making a flow chart to summarise this. For repairing the oil finish on the cutting board (04:32) you say you use a mineral oil, is this a food-safe one? I would have thought Tung oil might be better but would appreciate your advice on this. Thanks.
Hemp oil is food safe
When it comes to varnish finishes, can you do a video on how to sand a piece of furniture with lots of grooves and carved details? I have a chair I want to fix and refinish, but I am afraid of sanding off a lot of detail.
I have a mcm tallboy. I've tried everything you showed with no luck. I assume it's a poly or varnish finish. How do I get that off? It's driving me crazy! Thanks
What are the possible varnish finishes? Isn’t varnish a general term for different types of finishes? Do you have a video on how to determine a type of varnish?
Just curious. I have a painted metal piece that I’m trying to determine if it is just paint or if it has a top coat. Is there any way to determine with certainty one way or another?
So I have a steering wheel with a varnish finish that is chipping from UV exposure through the windshield. Could I just pull off any cracked or chipped pieces, sand down the rest of the wood underneath and neighboring cracked varnish and then put another coat over it all?
Just curious to find out if you have used the 3M buffing pads to achieve the same effect as the steel wool? I have used the 0000 steel wool and 3M pads and have found the 3M pad to be less abrasive. I even used the 3M pad to buff out scratches on a table top.
Hi Terry. I use both steel wool and synthetic steel wool (scotch-bright pads). I haven't done a direct comparison between them but now that you mention it, I do use them for different things. I use the synthetic for scrubbing a surface clean or applying wax to a finish whereas I use traditional steel wool for cleaning off finishes or in between finish coats. I don't know if that answers your question but I hope it's helpful. Scott
Good video but I got some old walnut paneling that the finish come off when you scratch it with finger nail .what would that be paste or wax?
It's hard to say without testing it with chemicals. It sounds odd
I'm trying to find out the likelihood of any of these clear finishes on antique items having lead in them? I usually just think about colored paint or white paint having lead but can chilack or lacquer or any type of glass cover contain lead? Thank you
I have a table I bought at a yard sale. that stains very easily. Everything seems to stick on it. Dishes, cups., Placemats, everything. I am guessing it has lost its finish. Do you suggest I buy all the above items to test for the original finish.
It's likely a failed lacquer finish. It might be shellac too. I suggest testing for shellac with denatured alcohol first, then try lacquer thinner.
Hi, I am restoring a very old settee. May I send you some pictures to see if you can identify the wood? Thanks so much!
In canada we don't have denatured alcohol, are there any subsitutes possible?
Awsome
Thanks! Scott
I actually have a question. I have a wooden table, I'm not sure what the finish is, but a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol I had out for cleaning my laptop spilled overnight and soaked into the table via through a cloth and now it's all wrinkled. Is there a way to fix it without having to sand it and refinish?
What can you test shellac with other than Denatured alcohol, it's not able to be purchased in CA due to Prop 65 I've been told at stores here. I think I have a shellac finish, can I use shellac to test since there's denatured alcohol in it to test?
Sorry, I don't know the answer to that. I've never tried another alcohol such as vodka to see how shellac reacts. Scott
Does the first test need to be tung oil, or will other oils do?
WNAT IF I AM GETTING A POSITIVE TEST FOR BOTH SHELLAC WITH DENATURED ALCHOL AND A POSITIVE TEST FOR LAQUER WITH LAQUER THINNER? BOTH MAKE IT STICKY AND OULL OFF THE STAIN. THANKS
I would like to put two relatively old chairs and a table (with thin veneer on top) into my basement, which is, unfortunately, quite damp as groundwater keeps seeping up the walls. So the humidity level is always higher than it should be. Although there is a dehumidifier, I think I should put a finish on the furniture that will be able to protect it from mildew/mold. What finish would you recommend me to use if I want to make it resistant and keep it look old?
No type of finish is going to keep moisture from being absorbed by the wood. The more humid the conditions, the more the wood will absorb, which will expand the wood. I wouldn't recommend storing furniture the a damp place like that. This likely isn't the answer you were looking for, but I hope you will find it helpful. Scott
@@FixingFurniture I was hoping that there would be some kind of a "super finish" which is really resistant to moisture or at least more resistant than other finishes. Problem is, I don't have the room for these pieces of furniture. The air humidity is under control now.🙂
@@FixingFurniture Thank you for the answer!
I purchased table from the thrift store. It has an inlay and very deep cracks. I suspect it may be an epoxy finish, but how can I check it? The second question , if it is an epoxy, what is the best way to repair the table?
I doubt it's epoxy as it's extremely rare as a finish. It's usually only used when there's something like coins in a finish. I suggest trying these tests to figure out what you've got.
I'm trying to figure out what kind of finish is on my hardwood floors. Are there any other oils that we could use to test for an oil finish? I'd prefer to use something I already have on hand, if possible.
Any finishing oil will work. Hardwood floor finishes are not oil finished tough. They need to have a protective film, so a varnish or polyurethane.
I put some denatured alcohol on a table that I thought was shellac. But instead of turning sticky or gummy, it turned white and opaque. Does this mean I should move on to the lacquer thinner then?
Yes, it's likely an old lacquer finish and the lacquer thinner will confirm that.