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@LilxPsych hop ups are a little adjustable nub in airsoft and some nerf rifles that gives the ball some backspin. What that does is cause the projectile to "float" better and increases range.
Totally didn’t find a weird way , as it turns out if you get a custom made brass barrel and an extended custom made shell plus a spring that jumps the stock guns FPS from 90 to 150 then you’ve got a pretty solid and accurate gun , on the down side to buy all this you need a lot of money
Hey, I noticed the bottle you were using for the lubricant, and part of the reason it may have been dry is if you're in a moist environment at all. It's a water-based lube and basically any outside moisture is going to strip it off the plunger assembly. Idk if this came across your mind at all, but maybe it'd be worth looking at an alternative instead.
Something i heard on Captain Xaviers channel, the latest will it take a K26 episode, was to prime the mechanism before assembling. I believe meaning to attach the plunger, spring, and the latching mechanism together
Walcom, i have a suggestion for kronos style reassembly. Put the plunger rod into the catchbox before assembly. Trust me, reduces spring tension, makes it easier to reassemble
I still think, for practicality purposes, the 9 coils of K25 work out better. I've tried a Perfect Fit Kronos spring, a Hillman #49 and K25. I definitel liked the K25 the best with a perfect 127 fps average. Very accurate blaster with a lot of range to it!
@@hxd9321 Yes. I felt it was too much. much more prefer Rival blasters to be under 150, preferably between 125-135. t's more practical for priming quickly and staying accurate.
I was in physical pain watching him put this back together. Its kronos internals... prime the spring before it goes back in. Thats like, the appeal of modding any kronos reskin.
I was once putting a Kronos back together with a K26 spring primed. Something hit the catch release while it was in the plunger tube and made a sound louder than a Knockout firing, almost sent the internals everywhere. Priming makes it easier, but man it makes me paranoid.
@@CaptainResident So I was modding a Dart zone sentry which is pretty much a Kronos (terrible plunger seal though) and hit the catch, Shot the plunger head from the back row of the auditorium I was in onto the stage. Nearly hit someone in the head too!.
@@milmaxleo7268 yeah, spring modding Rival blasters is a scary thing sometimes. I was putting a K26 in my Jupiter (I ended up taking it out of the Kronos since the prime was insanely painful after a point) and I had to make sure the trigger mech wouldn't set off the catch, with how it's designed. It ended up working and I was relieved when it didn't end up releasing.
The Takedown actually DOES feed two rounds. If you hold the trigger while pumping it once, then you pump it again, the chamber will load two rounds. And it can be done pretty quickly. Just make sure to pull back all the way thoroughly when pumping it both times. And THAT adds so much more value to this blaster for me. I even upgraded it with a K 25 spring two days ago.
i had taken one of these apart a few weeks back to put the spring from a hyper rush 40 in it, basically had all the same problems putting it back together that you did.
I added a strap to the fore grip to compensate for the heavier prime from the spring upgrade, and made it easy to double feed for shot gun blast, oh and I decided it needed a stock. I'm a big fan and I enjoy your content, keep it up! Respect and love brother.
Thanks again Walcom for being transparent in your videos on the modding process. Thanks also for revealing the journey that modding can be sometimes. It's what makes the little victories in modding look and feel much bigger, and richer.
I opened this up yesterday. I’m glad I’m not the only one who had a hard time with this one. Didn’t think changing a spring would be this difficult! Lol
Keep up the great work I’m going to need to pick up one of these springs. When I modded my takedown I left all the yellow pieces out and it works just fine. I can easily double load it and shoot two rival rounds and it’s not bad. This is definitely one of my favorite blasters now and will be part of one of my loadouts.
The spring not fitting over the plunger rod was obviously a contributing factor to the difficulty of getting the shell back together properly... but the main source of difficulty was the various mechanical locks that you don't actually need, and that bracket screwed into the back of the plunger rod (that's only there to trip locks that you don't need) - it would have been a lot less painful of a reassembly process had you left those locks out and removed that bracket. Not having those in there also makes it far simpler to shotgun load.
Give in to good neighbour peer pressure, mow the lawn. also, to prevent o-ring damage, use a brass o-ring removal tool. It has a dull point which wont pierce the rubber. but dayum. that thing shoots fast
Jesus christ that PSO music brought me back... Just bought this for my niece and I. Decided to mod one of them and found your video. You get a sub just for that music.
i appreciate this video so much. was just about to buy a spring for this but i definitely do not have the patience to put this blaster back together. think ill just get a speed loader and maybe a cosmetic attachment or something. im more than happy with its stock performance anyway.
Joseph Torres Late reply but it’s super easy to make a stock from 3/4” schedule 40 or thinwall (won’t be as strong though) PVC pipe by using a decently powerful hairdryer to bend it.
I'll probably go with leather/vinyl over the pump-grip to make it less slickery... and definitely a slightly LESS beefy spring to keep her under or around HVZ specs. But yes... I want one. More than ever.
Very nice, my only recommendation would be for the pump lever, instead of stippling which could weakin it, my advice and actually what I'm going to, is either get like a tactical mossburg pump level cover or just screw on some picitiny rail peices
Couldn't believe our biggest Shotgun fan didn't try two in the chamber on the range - please record more with double and triple rival shot. Thanks for stipling advice and suggest you muzzle load 1 or 2 HiRs between each shot for quicker multi-shot option and possibly remove hop up for aim. Had to remove it for the Jupiter with OOD 135 FPS spring upgrade.
Scared the $#!& out of my girlfriend four minutes in, when I screamed, “HOLY CRAP!! Is that Phantasy Star!?!” I had been recognizing the song, but then it suddenly clicked. Thanks for that trip down memory lane. Good times…
Just watched Captain Xavier's vid on K26 with this and the Rival Jolt and your vid was linked in. The good Captain used some grip tape to solve the issue of the pump action grip being too smooth and it's within limits for HvZ maxing out at 130ish but usually in the mid to high 120fps range.
And the trick to loading two rounds easily is to hold down the trigger, prime let go of trigger and you have chambered a round and are able to prime again
In my games the stock takedown is surprisingly effective actually, and modded ones are even more effective (this is in a field where people use 200 FPS blasters and their are high FPS stryfes) but of course not as effective as other blasters but not unusable.
For a true FPS reading you'll need to change the settings on your chronograph... You've got it set to 6mm 0.2g pellets (standard Airsoft BBs) you'll not be getting anywhere close to an accurate reading sending rival rounds through those settings.
You only need to change that information if you're trying to measure joules. The measurement of speed is unaffected, it just times an object entering the first IR reading and the object exiting the second IR reading.
I wonder if trimming the hop up down a little bit to reduce the backspin slightly would improve accuracy. The huge problem with rival at these higher FPS numbers is the insane amount of spin they get causing the accuracy to just be ruined.
I did an ehdrian thingaverse pump kit on kronos with a 15k worker hades spring. Averages 155fps and ranges about 80 ft without hopup. This reminds me very much of that, but much easier.
quality skateboard grip tape cut to fit the foregrip works just the same and is a lot less permanent and takes a lot less time to get the same basic effect...
My buddy broke one of these within first ten minutes of usage. I took it apart and figured out how to fix, only problem is it kind of has an extra katong sound at the end ish, it seems to be within 5fps of a new one, just the sound is slightly different, and not entirely sure why. Love the gun though, love the way it feels when you cock it.
So I bought the spring. Had to also trim down the fans on the plunger rod to be able to pull back all the way. I can pull the pump back but the gun doesn’t shoot. I can pull the trigger but I don’t know what I’ve done wrong or broke.
maybe next time watch tutorials on how to dismantle blasters first, that was a truly messy hot mess of a dismantling, you are sooo luckly you didnt lose springs, stuff flying everywhere... etc etc... I use this 3D textured spraypaint, it looks cool on blasters grips & gives you extra grip to hold on to like a non skid surface. i use it on my steampunk blasters, lightsaber grips, sonic screwdrivers and it works, from Wilkos in the UK, you might find a US equivalent in target or K mart or S mart or something like that
Holy crap the table is COVERED in gold! JUST A FEW DAYS LEFT TO JOIN THE PACK! $5 GETS YOUR NAME ON THE TABLE IN GOLD IF YOU SUPPORT ME ON PATREON BEFORE THE END OF JANUARY! www.patreon.com/walcoms7
That pop is so satisfying...😁
@LilxPsych hop ups are a little adjustable nub in airsoft and some nerf rifles that gives the ball some backspin. What that does is cause the projectile to "float" better and increases range.
Totally didn’t find a weird way , as it turns out if you get a custom made brass barrel and an extended custom made shell plus a spring that jumps the stock guns FPS from 90 to 150 then you’ve got a pretty solid and accurate gun , on the down side to buy all this you need a lot of money
Is the sight down now?
Hey, I noticed the bottle you were using for the lubricant, and part of the reason it may have been dry is if you're in a moist environment at all. It's a water-based lube and basically any outside moisture is going to strip it off the plunger assembly. Idk if this came across your mind at all, but maybe it'd be worth looking at an alternative instead.
I was thinking the same thing. Silicone based the way to go...
The fact you know this much about lube concerns me.
Lithium grease ftw and silicon lube
You can get Yamaha trombone slide grease. It works extremely well.
Yeah "nerfing" purposes *nods head quickly in agreement while closing the bed side table*
Lmao
2:04 who else thought of that when he said little bits
I spent like 2 hours stippling my takedown pump, lol. Feels like pumice stone now.
Hope that you are doing well valour. Are you going to try and get to the event in Raleigh on Saturday?
Is that a good or bad thing?
Something i heard on Captain Xaviers channel, the latest will it take a K26 episode, was to prime the mechanism before assembling. I believe meaning to attach the plunger, spring, and the latching mechanism together
Walcom, i have a suggestion for kronos style reassembly. Put the plunger rod into the catchbox before assembly. Trust me, reduces spring tension, makes it easier to reassemble
I still think, for practicality purposes, the 9 coils of K25 work out better. I've tried a Perfect Fit Kronos spring, a Hillman #49 and K25. I definitel liked the K25 the best with a perfect 127 fps average. Very accurate blaster with a lot of range to it!
Have you tried this spring from this video?
@@hxd9321 Yes. I felt it was too much. much more prefer Rival blasters to be under 150, preferably between 125-135. t's more practical for priming quickly and staying accurate.
@@norcalnerfclub3423 Do you think removing the hop up would improve accuracy with this spring? Prime speed for me isn’t much of a concern
@@hxd9321 No. The rounds lose too much range without the hop up. Without a little back spin the air pushes the rounds down.
How hard is a K25 to prime? I have a friend who loves the blaster but they have small hands. (I also got a foam grip for easier priming.)
I was in physical pain watching him put this back together. Its kronos internals... prime the spring before it goes back in. Thats like, the appeal of modding any kronos reskin.
I was once putting a Kronos back together with a K26 spring primed. Something hit the catch release while it was in the plunger tube and made a sound louder than a Knockout firing, almost sent the internals everywhere.
Priming makes it easier, but man it makes me paranoid.
@@CaptainResident So I was modding a Dart zone sentry which is pretty much a Kronos (terrible plunger seal though) and hit the catch, Shot the plunger head from the back row of the auditorium I was in onto the stage. Nearly hit someone in the head too!.
@@milmaxleo7268 yeah, spring modding Rival blasters is a scary thing sometimes. I was putting a K26 in my Jupiter (I ended up taking it out of the Kronos since the prime was insanely painful after a point) and I had to make sure the trigger mech wouldn't set off the catch, with how it's designed. It ended up working and I was relieved when it didn't end up releasing.
@@milmaxleo7268 bro why were you modding a sentry in a auditorium?
@@milmaxleo7268 bro why were you modding a sentry in a auditorium?
From what I understand a lot of blasters use "interference seals" on the plunger tubes, which seem loose, but actually do seal up when under pressure.
Those front screw posts never want to snap back together
*sees Gipsy Stormcloud in gold* Aaaaahhhhh!!! It's there!!! I'm happy!!
Lets put this Nerf Rival Takedown onto a modding bench.
NICE!
Double loading that thing would make it basically the Rival Roughcut! Pump-action, 4x2, angled rear grip.
The Takedown actually DOES feed two rounds. If you hold the trigger while pumping it once, then you pump it again, the chamber will load two rounds. And it can be done pretty quickly. Just make sure to pull back all the way thoroughly when pumping it both times. And THAT adds so much more value to this blaster for me. I even upgraded it with a K 25 spring two days ago.
i had taken one of these apart a few weeks back to put the spring from a hyper rush 40 in it, basically had all the same problems putting it back together that you did.
where i really screwed up originally was accidentally putting the plunger in upside down.
I added a strap to the fore grip to compensate for the heavier prime from the spring upgrade, and made it easy to double feed for shot gun blast, oh and I decided it needed a stock. I'm a big fan and I enjoy your content, keep it up! Respect and love brother.
Thanks again Walcom for being transparent in your videos on the modding process. Thanks also for revealing the journey that modding can be sometimes. It's what makes the little victories in modding look and feel much bigger, and richer.
"Little bits" LOL! Thanks for adding that 👍
"Oh. Oh wow. Oh my." -The mighty Nerf Walrus.
Goes to show you the power and how good it is.
"nerfing purposes"
I'mma just, *yeeeeaaaah*
Had he not mentioned it, IDK who would’ve noticed
@@dr.z4752 tbh yeah, i initially thought it was a hand sanitizer bottle, but I've seen lubricants be stored in stranger containers
I opened this up yesterday. I’m glad I’m not the only one who had a hard time with this one. Didn’t think changing a spring would be this difficult! Lol
Keep up the great work I’m going to need to pick up one of these springs. When I modded my takedown I left all the yellow pieces out and it works just fine. I can easily double load it and shoot two rival rounds and it’s not bad. This is definitely one of my favorite blasters now and will be part of one of my loadouts.
Yellow parts are to the lock that locks the pump handle forward and the lever attached to the shell is part of the safety
just finish this exact mod, its freaking terrifying
Why
I love what you did here, great video show us more of your modding experience
Is it wrong to want to see that spring in a chronomag
The spring not fitting over the plunger rod was obviously a contributing factor to the difficulty of getting the shell back together properly... but the main source of difficulty was the various mechanical locks that you don't actually need, and that bracket screwed into the back of the plunger rod (that's only there to trip locks that you don't need) - it would have been a lot less painful of a reassembly process had you left those locks out and removed that bracket. Not having those in there also makes it far simpler to shotgun load.
Thank you I haven't moded mine yet because of the pump grip naturally being so smooth
Give in to good neighbour peer pressure, mow the lawn. also, to prevent o-ring damage, use a brass o-ring removal tool. It has a dull point which wont pierce the rubber. but dayum. that thing shoots fast
I knew I remembered that opening music from somewhere! Haven't played that game in almost 10 years...
what game
@@channelmachinebroke9638 GunZ: The Duel
Jesus christ that PSO music brought me back... Just bought this for my niece and I. Decided to mod one of them and found your video. You get a sub just for that music.
Him “ 160 is no joke” me who plays airsoft
i started to watch this because i took mine apart and now me and walcom are both trying to put it back together.
i appreciate this video so much. was just about to buy a spring for this but i definitely do not have the patience to put this blaster back together. think ill just get a speed loader and maybe a cosmetic attachment or something. im more than happy with its stock performance anyway.
"Nerfing purposes" eh
Is it silicone based or water-based, because I'm pretty sure it needs to be silicone based so the o ring doesn't wear out?
@@guiseppeperceval4930 haha o ring
Nice profile pic
I would recomend putting a full stock on it. I want to find a lightgun shotgun and butcher the stock.
Joseph Torres Late reply but it’s super easy to make a stock from 3/4” schedule 40 or thinwall (won’t be as strong though) PVC pipe by using a decently powerful hairdryer to bend it.
I'll probably go with leather/vinyl over the pump-grip to make it less slickery... and definitely a slightly LESS beefy spring to keep her under or around HVZ specs.
But yes... I want one. More than ever.
Very nice, my only recommendation would be for the pump lever, instead of stippling which could weakin it, my advice and actually what I'm going to, is either get like a tactical mossburg pump level cover or just screw on some picitiny rail peices
That's a spicy meatball.
The gunz intro brings me to life
This is prolly gonna be the best blaster of 2020, insanley comfortable and its a pump action chronos.
Couldn't believe our biggest Shotgun fan didn't try two in the chamber on the range - please record more with double and triple rival shot. Thanks for stipling advice and suggest you muzzle load 1 or 2 HiRs between each shot for quicker multi-shot option and possibly remove hop up for aim. Had to remove it for the Jupiter with OOD 135 FPS spring upgrade.
Looks like a Kronos on steroids. Interesting. If you cut the shell and place a mag well on the side, that would look fascinating.
I remember taking apart my takedown. That was a terrible experience
Scared the $#!& out of my girlfriend four minutes in, when I screamed, “HOLY CRAP!! Is that Phantasy Star!?!” I had been recognizing the song, but then it suddenly clicked. Thanks for that trip down memory lane. Good times…
Just watched Captain Xavier's vid on K26 with this and the Rival Jolt and your vid was linked in. The good Captain used some grip tape to solve the issue of the pump action grip being too smooth and it's within limits for HvZ maxing out at 130ish but usually in the mid to high 120fps range.
If you prime it first it's easier to put back together
And the trick to loading two rounds easily is to hold down the trigger, prime let go of trigger and you have chambered a round and are able to prime again
This is one of the best blasters I have ever seen subscribe to this guy
it might not be overly effective, but if you have fun with it that's really the whole point so... very nice job, love the vid!
In my games the stock takedown is surprisingly effective actually, and modded ones are even more effective (this is in a field where people use 200 FPS blasters and their are high FPS stryfes) but of course not as effective as other blasters but not unusable.
I want to see our fav shotgun lover to demo two and three HiRs at once for a more satisfying range test 😁
Me taking apart my right joy con to replace the analog stick thinking it’s gonna be the same as the left one XD
For a true FPS reading you'll need to change the settings on your chronograph... You've got it set to 6mm 0.2g pellets (standard Airsoft BBs) you'll not be getting anywhere close to an accurate reading sending rival rounds through those settings.
You only need to change that information if you're trying to measure joules. The measurement of speed is unaffected, it just times an object entering the first IR reading and the object exiting the second IR reading.
Some Lubricants can cause shrinking and issues with ptfe tape, that is why I prefer thick Silicon grease of Li grease.
I wonder if trimming the hop up down a little bit to reduce the backspin slightly would improve accuracy. The huge problem with rival at these higher FPS numbers is the insane amount of spin they get causing the accuracy to just be ruined.
I used rubberized undercoating paint in my pump grip makes it so much easier and looks better than stippling
I've had some luck with modifying rival springer hopups, it just takes a lot of tuning and firing tests.
I added some traction tape about 2.5 inches on both sides of the pump grip and it works great
13:37 OMG....I’m laughing my face off dude
I did an ehdrian thingaverse pump kit on kronos with a 15k worker hades spring. Averages 155fps and ranges about 80 ft without hopup. This reminds me very much of that, but much easier.
I live in fear of modding my takedowns
Man I remember how much this blaster pissed me off until I pre primed the spring then it worked perfectly
Cut grip tape and put it on the slide
quality skateboard grip tape cut to fit the foregrip works just the same and is a lot less permanent and takes a lot less time to get the same basic effect...
Imagine using brass and making this thing shoot half link darts! Wait? Is this even possible???
My man just turned a shotgun into a sniper
TOVITO
Sniper rife*
Did you see how easy captain xavier put it together I think he is a robot he does it way better then me
Than
Bro you've got a lot more patience than me good for you good job too getting it done
Outline the blaster on cardboard and poke the screws in the outline to keep up with'em and in the right place
Any recommendations for springs that someone can pick up locally and not through a sponsor?
skateboard tape for the grip
Is there a way to remove the safety so you can double prime the takedown without pressing the button?
Suprising that you didn't say "take down a takedown"
1:06 ok walcom that was cool for real though no kuuga love today dudes show just turned 20
You can actually prime and then frontload a Takedown, you can use this to make it an actual shotgun.
I would've LMAO if the 1st try at the white sticker on the door the window shattered.
Happy Gilmore!
13:37
Possibly a fourend with a Forward grip might help
I don’t know what’s harder to mod; this or the Artemis.
You can use grip tape?
Would a X-Shot Chaos Orbit Spring fit in it and would give it some boost?
That was thouroghly enjoyable. Now I wanna mod one. Going to Amazon to buy some lol this is your fault XD
My buddy broke one of these within first ten minutes of usage. I took it apart and figured out how to fix, only problem is it kind of has an extra katong sound at the end ish, it seems to be within 5fps of a new one, just the sound is slightly different, and not entirely sure why. Love the gun though, love the way it feels when you cock it.
So I bought the spring. Had to also trim down the fans on the plunger rod to be able to pull back all the way. I can pull the pump back but the gun doesn’t shoot. I can pull the trigger but I don’t know what I’ve done wrong or broke.
Did you ever figure it out? I was thinking about getting this spring
@@hxd9321 yeah I did. Don't remember what the issue was but it does fire perfectly now.
@@a10_owohog14 nice and you got the spring that was in this video
maybe next time watch tutorials on how to dismantle blasters first, that was a truly messy hot mess of a dismantling, you are sooo luckly you didnt lose springs, stuff flying everywhere... etc etc... I use this 3D textured spraypaint, it looks cool on blasters grips & gives you extra grip to hold on to like a non skid surface. i use it on my steampunk blasters, lightsaber grips, sonic screwdrivers and it works, from Wilkos in the UK, you might find a US equivalent in target or K mart or S mart or something like that
Just ordered the spring I've got to do that to mine
How did it turn out? You like it
Do you think it could be modded to take short darts?
Get a Knockout instead
Why don't you use a different spring or a cut that spring down slightly so you would gain back it's accuracy and a slightly easier prime?
I've been WAITING for this vid!!!!
Upgrading the spring pretty much guarantees the gun to not last as long right? It has to take all the hits from shooting
how do I take the pump part off?
So much POWER!
After watching it all I take my former comment back.
what kilogram spring did walcom use
What kg is that spring is it custom k26 or 14kg to 18kg I put Kronos 18kg in mine it’s hitting 160 also
I am just getting into this but was thinking of wrapping the pump in leather
not me trying this and making a monster
Bro used KY on that plunger😂 how did the mod hold up over time?
CAT at 22:27!!