Mike Tee I have like 29 nerf guns only like 5 of em work and only 2 of em work and I can shoot only like 10 feet but they say it can shoot fifty or something like that
They make so many full auto like you only need 1 to hit someone this thing only shoots 12 small darts which are accurate as fuck and shoot far how is nerf not catching onto this already if they made something that can actually shoot a dart then people would be happy with them
That's what I did also. Except a full inch was a bit too much because I wasn't able to have anything for my spring to grab a hold of. So I reduced to down to 7/8 of an inch. So without the brass I was able to increase my FPS in excess of 30+ FPS.
I ended up going back to the stock spring in mine. I found the prime to be more trouble than it was worth. The brass breach is a pleasant surprise though.
Boomstick Mods yeah the stock spring and spacer combo is such an easy prime and that’s what I’m sticking with because it’s also the perfect amount of power. Can’t wait to use it on the field.
From what I’ve seen, the sloppiness of the quality control in the cheap aluminum barrel is exactly what allows it to fire almost every time of ammo. AK-47 design language.
Gunsmith here. No. The AK47's design is made to value mass production and user-friendliness above all else, so you can dump a bunch of 'em into the hands of uneducated farmers and make them revolt. The AK47 is usually in such terrible condition because it's typically used by people who do not know how to use guns, and mass produced by people who don't care about quality control. But the AK itself isn't designed to be so shit that it's good. If that logic were accurate, the M14 would still be used for more than a gimmick.
@A Rock. I believe the spring replacement is 10 times easier then this mod. To replace the spring you simply... 1. Remove the stock. 2. Remove the end cap. 3. Remove the spring. 4. Insert bigger spring. 5. Add end cap back. 6. Add stock back... and you’re done!
@@Videos4uByme I know how to replace the spring. I was just referring to the spring spacer part of this mod- I happen to have a hunk of plastic that perfectly fits on the stock cap, so I cut it down and boom. Didn't even need to 3d print anything.
Just a reminder to those that do this mod, don't expect to get this on the first try. When I did it, 5th shot I had with it, brass fell clean off from the blaster, trial and error note: I am still working on fixing this issue
Great video. I did the mod and I had one issue. After a while, the brass barrel got misaligned I’m guessing due to the really stretchy nature of the electric tape. It became unusable so I recommend cutting the barrel at the end so the brass doesn’t stick out and you can’t knock the brass tubing out of alignment on accident like I did. Let me know if this makes sense if anyone reads this.
You should try this with a sleeper brass barrel, i.e. only brass the "true barrel" of the blaster which is the orange plastic part where the pusher sets the dart. The original aluminum 'barrel' is designed with a wider diameter to reduce friction on the dart as it leaves the "true barrel" while still preventing much air-loss around the dart. The Aeon Pro has identical FPS to the Nexus Pro for this very reason. Providing a tighter seal on the stock plastic barrel or adding just a small ring of brass to the top of it to retain the dart in the true barrel a little longer followed by the wider stock barrel should provide the needed air seal and also reduce friction on the dart passing out of the barrel thereby improving performance even over the full brass method.
Builder BB that’s not a bad idea. I’m sticking with the stock spring and spacer combo right now and I don’t have any binding issues with it so I’m super happy with the 205 average.
Plumbers tape (ptfe) is used for threaded connections to help fill the gaps in between the threads. The PTFE is also known as Teflon, and is not adhesive. That way you can unscrew the fittings. I think using the electrical tape, which is PVC, would be adequate alone when trying to seal the outside from air leaks. But...what do I know.
Thanks for this video! I'm just starting out in this and a day after buying my Nexus Pro, I already painted it and performed the super easy upgrades seen in this video. Blaster shoots incredible and I never thought a foam blaster could shoot like this especially for the money. Two questions: 1-I'm going to use my airsoft chrono and am wondering: Is it common across the board in this hobby to use the 6mm setting in the chrono to measure one's FPS? I'm just looking to stay consistent with what is common in this hobby since I'm new to it. 2-I 3D printed the same spacer and am wondering if you were to try the Turf spring again but this time cut the spacer down maybe 1/2 way then maybe 3/4 of the way if that might improve your ability to prime? I haven't ordered new springs yet to try for myself and that's why I ask.
xXG.L.HXx great questions, and welcome to the hobby!! So as far as the chrono goes, I just used whatever the stock measure that comes on when you boot it so the 6mm setting seems ok to me. Number might be a bit hotter in this model because I’ve test the same setup of stock spring and spacer on a Caldwell and was hitting around 189 to 195 but don’t know what that was set to. Regarding springs, the turf spring by itself without a spacer for me personally is a hard prime as is but is manageable on the field, but it will leave you tired. Great idea about trying cutdown versions though, I haven’t thought to give that a go but I’ll look into. For me though, I’ve found the stock spring with spacer combo to be the perfect amount of power with the best consistent shots.
@@KBFoamStrike Thank you, I appreciate the replies! When I have a chance, I'll weigh the Adventure Force half dart and compare it to the weight of a typical .20g 6MM BB. Usually, airsoft specific chronos have BB weight and size options in it's menu layout so you can compensate for weight/size of the BB you are using. While there is a 8mm BB, the 6mm .20g BB is the standard size used in most fields. It will weigh less than a 6mm .28g BB which is heavier and will hit harder at the expense of range and FPS drop. That also means that chronoing your gun using .28's at your local field then switching to .20's during the games will have you shooting much hotter then the field limit. Fields overcome this issue by requiring you to chrono at the field using .20's regardless of what actual BB weight you intend to use, that way you'll never shoot hot as using a heavier BB will only cause FPS drops. The point is: I think that if we determine the weight of a typical dart, and chrono using the correct setting (at least with an Airsoft chrono) we'll achieve more accurate FPS readings. BTW, what type of springs are "drop in" springs for this blaster? I'm looking to buy a few and experiment
xXG.L.HXx I’ve had the best results using springs designed for the JET Ceda. I’ve tried the 10kg and the 12kg Turf spring and they seem to work in the system. I believe outofdarts may also have some Nexus specific springs available on their store too.
I know that waffles will not work the heads are the same size as the foam and since the 13/32" squishes the foam more than necessary Dart heads are significantly worse this causes binding and the dart heads tent fold over in the barrel causing jams. If you want a set up waffle darts then 9/16" with tightening rings to give it a very mild fit on the darts and maybe even waxing the barrel to help lubricate them as they fly through the barrel.
@@seniorxj2931 you wax the barrels to reduce friction and to make a better seal. Chris uses bicycle chain wax as the first few layers applies some to the tip the dart and then fires it thin pledge down the back of a dart fires it and then uses a dry dart to polish and remove over spray repeats multiple times until a mirror like finish is achieved. Also you need to let the wax dry before you apply another coat for every coat.
I think I would just use a spring spacer. I like the slightly looser tolerances of the barrel for wider dart compatibility, As I'm not always throwing fresh darts down it. I also don't trust the longevity of electrical tape as a fitting. The glue in electrical tape likes to seep out and lose its adhesiveness overtime. I think Press-fitting a brass insert into the stock aluminum barrel would be the optimal choice, along with using some plumbers tape for a little bit of a better seal at the breach. Also wouldn't really want the extended barrel interfearing with the press fit tip because of the utility that bit has for hilariously allowing this blaster to fire basically anything outside of a #girthdart and Demolisher Missile. But still impressive performance increase for that little of actual work.
Hey man! I promise I won't become a pain in the ass but while I love the range I'm getting (I've only tested to 82ft) but I notice my groupings are a bit erratic. Do you think I can add a scar end to my brass as is or is it best to cut it down a bit due to the whole 'volume' thing?
xXG.L.HXx you can definitely add a scar to the whole foot of brass. I use the ZRO barrel from the JET ceda on mine sometimes and it works quite well. Drops the FPS about 10 or so but you will get a much more straight shot for sure.
Nice video! How long is your spring spacer? I'm looking to make a spacer myself out of PVC pipe to achieve about the same FPS as your spacer, but I'm not sure how how long to make it.
Yes, this mod is intended for short darts. Tighter barrels like this brass don’t work well with long darts, especially waffle tip darts. The included long darts that come with the Nexus can work sometimes because they have a smaller head but they can be hit or miss.
@@Videos4uByme yea I just consider myself lucky I got one. It's about $109 Usd so just over double but not bad for shipping halfway across the world haha
For sure! The prime on this isn't bad at all in it's stock form. Adding that spacer can make it a bit tougher but still shouldn't be too bad. Accuracy on this is also top notch.
hey kb foam strike, I was wondering if elite darts work with this set up? like does the adventure force nexus pro work with elite darts in a 17/32 brass barrel? if so what is the fps numbers? I love half length darts buts its harder to find them after a war LOL and elites are cheaper and once I glue the heads on the darts, they actually arent that terrible at least in my opinion.
I believe they will work but they probably won’t fly or feed as consistent as shorts. I would say just stick with the stock barrel for elites and add a spacer or stronger spring if you want more power with them.
It’s worth a shot. I’ve been running this setup for close to a year now in roughly 50 games and haven’t had any issues sticking with the stock spring and spacer combo hitting 200fps.
Late reply but it effectiveness of barrel length depends on barrel material, barrel dart fit, plunger tube volume, and air seal to name a few factors. If you only had a 1 or 2 inches of effective barrel lengthon the nexus pro it would reduce the performance
will the brass fit inside the aluminum barrel? 2 reasons, one probably more structurally sound than just electrical tape and would help with centering, and two, lop the brass equal to the aluminum or maybe just shy of it and go stealth about it.
koolBOY8323 unfortunately it will not. Trust me, that was my first idea too but it’s not big enough. You could always get more brass and sleeve each until it fits but then you’re talking like $30 or so of brass.
Question. at 0:17 seconds you have that Black plastic on top with a small spring right I opend up my own gun and it doesnt have that part. but it stil shoots fine. Do you know what the black part on top is for ?
I had the exact same question. It is very tight. Mine is almost finished. Once I completed I'll let you know if it works or not. The next brass size up, is 5/8 in brass. Which is the equivalent of 20/32. So 3/32 is bigger. So if this doesn't work, I'm going to try that.
Yes, I used 17/32 brass. There are some better options than tape out there now to fit the barrel in but it can be tough getting it precisely lined up. This was two years ago when I made it so it might be best to go with a Worker kit or something like that if you can't get the proper fit.
I did this. This is insaine. Could you try to do the brass barrel and a chungus spring form draconical on the aeon pro? I want to see if it does anywhere near 200 FPS
Great guide. Although with the brass breech and no spacer every 4th or so pro half dart barley makes its way out of the barrel. what do you think my issue is.
Just ensure the tape hasn’t come loose and the barrel is perfectly centered is all I can think of. Check the air seal as well and make sure it’s air tight by sticking your hand over the barrel and dry firing like I did at the end of this video.
Awesome, 1 question, why I don't see any modder padding the head of the plunger tube? Nexus pro does not have an air restrictor by default and with all this spring force, it would easily break the plunger head. Can someone enlighten me?
Definitely could use a proper adapter, as that consistency is noticeably worse. Higher numbers, sure, but greater variance between those numbers, as you're likely hitting the lip of that barrel internally.
technicalru I haven’t tried it but it might be worth a shot. The problem with the stock barrel is it isn’t a tight fit on the dart so naturally it’s not a true air seal.
I’m having a a completely different experience with this mod .. worker gen 3’s are barely falling out of the barrel at the full 12” length and the dzp stock darts aren’t doing much better. After shortening the barrel to nearly stock length I’m experiencing wild inconsistency, low 190’s on my high shot and 110’s on my low. I hand fit some suspect o-rings on the pusher, re-greased the system and air seal is improved and acceptable, plugging the barrel on a dry fire holds pressure for several seconds. Am I missing something ? I’m incredibly frustrated lol.
I’ve only really used the dart zone/adventure force darts. All the tests I’ve done in this vid are only with those darts and they did great. I just tested some workers myself and had the same issue of some flying out great and then some others just barely popping out. I’m going to guess it’s the darts and maybe has something to do with the different foam.
@@KBFoamStrike Performance is lackluster even while using the oem darts, I suppose I’ll take a trip to Walmart tomorrow morning and grab a reload pack, hopefully I have better luck with that batch.
@@KBFoamStrike I’m very happy to report that after impregnating the 17/32 with Teflon lube I’m seeing stellar results, 201- 208 FPS with the dznp darts. Running to Wally World to buy every reload pack haha.
I've recently moded my Stryker and Nexus but now I'm getting a problem where when I fire them some of the darts get straight cuts on them causing those ones to stop in the barrel. The other darts fire short distances and others fine but I do notice a score imprint on where they would have cut open. Did you have this complication too and if so do you know what could be the issue?
I have had this happen before and it usually has to do with the barrel needing to be deburred. Alignment sometimes can cause this as well but usually it’s the entry of the barrel not being smoothed out that causes this. Using some sandpaper and a razor blade can typically do the trick. Hope this helps 🤙🏻
@@KBFoamStrike I was afraid that the fps upgrade would cause the darts to rupture but I never considered that the tubing needed rounding. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have to test that.
I bought the same exact brass tubing and none of my darts shoot through the entire barrel. I use waffle tops and DartZone pro darts. It's wayyyy too tight of a fit for anything and I'm going to have to return it. The blaster is being delivered tomorrow and I don't know if I should install this barrel seeing as not one dart can fit or slide all the way through the barrel. Do I need a different size?
Waffle darts will never work. Pro darts will work but only when fired from the blaster. 17/32 brass has a tight fit and is what helps create the proper air seal and gives you the increase of power and performance. Darts are not supposed to slide freely out of the brass so it’s doing the right thing, the darts will only fly out from the power of the air generated by the blaster.
@@KBFoamStrike waffles are the only darts I use, so this mod isnt for me. And plus, doesn't the long tight barrel add a ton of friction and slow down the dart?
@@xxTHExxABYSSxx just leave the stock barrel in because it will fire waffles, about 115 to 125 FPS. This platform is mainly for short darts so if you want to hit those high 200 numbers I’d invest in some short AF pro darts.
So if anyone on here is a cheapo like myself or doesn't have access to a 3D printer the thicker wire coat hangers work great as spacers just make sure to wrap around where you would put a spacer and snip the ends off with wire cutters 😅
oh man, everytime i see someone say "this doesnt fit, so we are gonna do this" i'm saying make one in the lathe, and let out a sigh when they wrap tape around it. I'm a kid that got punished by about 25 more years going by while i spaced out. So I have kids and getting them into nerf, but I have a mechanical engineering degree now and a 16x60 south bend lathe and know how to use it!
I didn’t do anything, just straight out of the package. If you want a looser fit on the dart you can use 9/16” brass but I haven’t done any testing with that.
@@eastlake_kicks it’s supposed to be a tight fit on the dart, that’s normal. The tight fit creates a better air seal for the dart to achieve higher performance when paired with the spacer or a heavier spring. The stock metal barrel it comes with has the dart fit a bit loose and makes the dart fall right out if you tilt the blaster down towards the ground and the 17/32” brass helps correct that issue as well.
Senior XJ hopefully they’re going to start restocking them soon since the Aron pro blaster is coming out next month. I haven’t seen them at any my Walmart’s since the first day they came out. They must not have anticipated such a demand but I’m sure they’ll start popping up sooner than later.
So thats not bad for the fps for a blaster that really cant take much more power. I just brassed a ceda sport, and with its stock 10kg apring and 12"s of brass, inatant 200fps, so then i dropped the AK Blaster Mods spring in and it got up to 259fps, with a very solid average of 243fps with a variance of only 13fps. My psycho ceda hits 305fps with heavily modded internals in a AK Blaster 16kg spring... I can see I am going to have to get one of these and see just what i can get it too...
hi,I jus tried this mod put and my darts aren't shooting out properly,they are getting prob 100fps ish? I wished to get 210 above with my upgraded spring might it be because of the tolerances of brass and it being too tight? thanks
@@KBFoamStrike worker and AFPs both have the same issues,I think it might be vacumn loading since I have a almost perfect seal but would love to hear more opinions.Also have you tried the epoxy putty mod on the priming bar?
@@Juan-nz1gu I’ve not tried epoxy putty but that should be a sturdy solution. Sounds like too much of a seal could be the issue and increasing the spring power should help with that. Another common problem I’ve had doing these is getting that barrel to be perfectly aligned with the orange plastic piece but sounds like it’s a seal/power problem. I’ve also had to burr out the barrel before because the barrel was too tight. Good luck 🤙🏻
@@KBFoamStrike ah ok, thanks.I have a worker 1.8 in here so spring prob isn't the issue,most likely is vacumn loading,again thanks for this great vid really helped me a bunch
I would of put the Teflon tape on the brass to help fit it to the plastic rather than the electrical tape and then used electrical tape to cover the gap as the electrical tape has glue. Also you can stick a Scar over top of the brass for accuracy
@@jpak1130 It should last a bit. PVC is cheap too though. And Out of Darts is making a pretty cool end piece that holds the spring in. He will have one for lower FPS, one for higher, and one adjustable as well.
@@paul022887 yeah i got some small pvc cut it down and it seems to be working great. i dont have to flip the spring guide, and i got enough pipe to make like 100 spacers lol thanks for the advice! wish i had a chrono to test the gains...
Gerank Fok depending on how you tape it there can be a slight gap remaining to have the flash hider barely rest on the muzzle. As long as it’s touching the muzzle you can just tape it down from there.
I just did the brass mod for my son, and he says it is harder to cock now. What could I have done wrong to cause this? I did not do the spacer mod so the spring should behave the same. I thought I installed the spring back correctly but now I'm second guessing. Have taken it apart a few times now not sure what I did. Thanks for the video it's a great mod
Sometimes too much tape on the barrel or around the seal where the brass connects to the plastic can make it hard for the slide to easily glide over the barrel when priming. I had this issue when I was recently installing brass to a Max Stryker and taking out some tape fixed it right up.
@@KBFoamStrike thanks I figured it out. I had that cylindrical piece that goes between the spring and the plunger backwards. It essentially was acting like a spacer
It’s still working great. It has lost some performance with the stock spring, going from hitting a little over 200fps with spacer to now about 190fps, but still a great blaster.
@@KBFoamStrike Nice. I just got into the hobby and saw some mods out there that were pretty pricey. This was definitely easy enough for me and worth the price. Literally just finished putting the barrel and everything back together. Only difference was I didn't have enough space to put the tip insert back on but I'm okay with that. Thanks again dude!
@@KBFoamStrike I hope this isn't too much to ask but do you think you will do a video of this mod for the Max Stryker? I just got one and want to buff the sniper aspects of it.
Alex Marin honestly for me it is an easier prime using the stock spring with spacer combo over the turf spring. That turf spring is kind of too long for this blaster so it kind of bends and gets bound up occasionally. Power wise you can get some harder shots with the turf spring but it’s not as consistent as the stock spring with spacer I’ve found.
oodamnagain 17/32 is a perfect fit for the darts so as long as you use that and make sure everything is centered when adding the e-tape it will fire nicely. Pushing with a hand or a finger the dart will not go through because it’s supposed to have a snug fit and only the power from the air in the blaster will make it come out.
Holy shit I need a simple way to get my nexus pro up to 200 fps, this looks awesome! On an unrelated note, I primed a few times with the turf ceda spring and now my stock won't hold up against a prime now, got a solution?
Gerank Fok hmmm not sure about that, I’ve got to say though after I used the turf spring in the blaster without a spacer that the spring actually started to warp. I’ve heard of people cutting a coil or two off the turf spring and that can help a little with priming but as far stock collapse I don’t have a solution. Perhaps trying to fill the stock with something like pvc could help reinforce it.
@@KBFoamStrike the worst part is that I don't know if the stock itself or the buffer tube is the reason the stock collapses on me now. It looks kinda like both took minor damage but the second to shortest stock setting works just fine even though I only really use it on the longest. Not even swapping back to the completely stock setup will give the stock its rigidity back
Try wrapping any thick/duck tape, on to the plunger tube. But first adjust the stock to how you like it. Then you should how some of the plunger tube exposed if you did move the stock back from the shortest position. Then start wrapping the tape on to the exposed tube. BTW I'd used electrical tape so removing the tape wouldn't be as ugly as other tapes when removed. Hope this helps. XD
There is a spring rest cap inside that you could technically flip around and use as a spacer but the risk of it breaking over time due to it being very thin plastic is my only concern.
![[REVIEW] Adventure Force Nexus Pro | ABSOLUTE POWERHOUSE](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q5tQCej_doY/mqdefault.jpg)
![[REVIEW] Adventure Force Nexus Pro | ABSOLUTE POWERHOUSE](/img/tr.png)
My favorite blaster of all time. Just crazy how I can aim at things AND ACTUALLY HIT THEM!!! awesome haha
Mike Tee I have like 29 nerf guns only like 5 of em work and only 2 of em work and I can shoot only like 10 feet but they say it can shoot fifty or something like that
They make so many full auto like you only need 1 to hit someone this thing only shoots 12 small darts which are accurate as fuck and shoot far how is nerf not catching onto this already if they made something that can actually shoot a dart then people would be happy with them
i was gonna like the comment but ya know its at 69 likes so lets leave it that way
The fact that you could not only prime the blaster with the turf spring but that it would catch shows how reliable and tough the plastic parts are!
The fact the stock priming setup was able to handle the turf spring and spacer without breaking is very good to know.
Tip for modders with no 3d printer, I've cut down about an inch of 1/2 cpvc and it fit in and works just like a 3d printed spacer
Chungy Cheese great tip, thanks for sharing!!!
@@KBFoamStrike just updated it, I remeasured it's actually 1 inch of 1/2 cpvc
yep just sand back like 3/8 of an inch and it nests right in the end cap. I made a few extra.
I was able to make one out of very densely wrapped electrical tape, it works pretty well for what I had
That's what I did also. Except a full inch was a bit too much because I wasn't able to have anything for my spring to grab a hold of. So I reduced to down to 7/8 of an inch. So without the brass I was able to increase my FPS in excess of 30+ FPS.
I ended up going back to the stock spring in mine. I found the prime to be more trouble than it was worth. The brass breach is a pleasant surprise though.
Boomstick Mods yeah the stock spring and spacer combo is such an easy prime and that’s what I’m sticking with because it’s also the perfect amount of power. Can’t wait to use it on the field.
@@KBFoamStrike think it's do to the barrel binge smaller and not supporting the priming system from flexing and binding in the shell.
Dont think the breech has been brass just the barrel lol
From what I’ve seen, the sloppiness of the quality control in the cheap aluminum barrel is exactly what allows it to fire almost every time of ammo. AK-47 design language.
Gunsmith here.
No.
The AK47's design is made to value mass production and user-friendliness above all else, so you can dump a bunch of 'em into the hands of uneducated farmers and make them revolt.
The AK47 is usually in such terrible condition because it's typically used by people who do not know how to use guns, and mass produced by people who don't care about quality control.
But the AK itself isn't designed to be so shit that it's good.
If that logic were accurate, the M14 would still be used for more than a gimmick.
FYI. If you don't have a 3D printer, you can take the spring rest cap (around 0:48), and flip it around. That will behave as a built-in spacer
I was looking to replace the spring, but this looks easier and just as effective.
Thanks for the mod guide, really helpful and informational.
A Rock. Awesome, glad you enjoyed!
@A Rock.
I believe the spring replacement is 10 times easier then this mod.
To replace the spring you simply...
1. Remove the stock.
2. Remove the end cap.
3. Remove the spring.
4. Insert bigger spring.
5. Add end cap back.
6. Add stock back...
and you’re done!
@@Videos4uByme I know how to replace the spring. I was just referring to the spring spacer part of this mod- I happen to have a hunk of plastic that perfectly fits on the stock cap, so I cut it down and boom. Didn't even need to 3d print anything.
@A Rock.
Oh ...ok, nice!
Wow, not only did they put in quality materials....they made it so easy to mod. I'm blown away at how easy it is to brass this thing!
Olorin323 it truly is an amazing platform and product!
Just a reminder to those that do this mod, don't expect to get this on the first try. When I did it, 5th shot I had with it, brass fell clean off from the blaster, trial and error
note: I am still working on fixing this issue
Great video. I did the mod and I had one issue. After a while, the brass barrel got misaligned I’m guessing due to the really stretchy nature of the electric tape. It became unusable so I recommend cutting the barrel at the end so the brass doesn’t stick out and you can’t knock the brass tubing out of alignment on accident like I did. Let me know if this makes sense if anyone reads this.
I think if you have a printer might as well print a bushing for the trunnion or use a thicker walled brass tube
When you brass it you can use your stock barrel to cut various spacers. I just superglued it on
Have you thought about using heat-shrink tubing instead of electrical tape?
Thanks for the links. Legit 20 bucks and half an hour. A great mod guide
You’re welcome, happy it helped. Enjoy your new blaster 🤙🏻
You should try this with a sleeper brass barrel, i.e. only brass the "true barrel" of the blaster which is the orange plastic part where the pusher sets the dart. The original aluminum 'barrel' is designed with a wider diameter to reduce friction on the dart as it leaves the "true barrel" while still preventing much air-loss around the dart. The Aeon Pro has identical FPS to the Nexus Pro for this very reason. Providing a tighter seal on the stock plastic barrel or adding just a small ring of brass to the top of it to retain the dart in the true barrel a little longer followed by the wider stock barrel should provide the needed air seal and also reduce friction on the dart passing out of the barrel thereby improving performance even over the full brass method.
You have a 3d printer in a local library??!
Look into a spring guide to fill up space in the buffer tube so the spring compresses straight and doesn't get a bend
Builder BB that’s not a bad idea. I’m sticking with the stock spring and spacer combo right now and I don’t have any binding issues with it so I’m super happy with the 205 average.
Plumbers tape (ptfe) is used for threaded connections to help fill the gaps in between the threads. The PTFE is also known as Teflon, and is not adhesive. That way you can unscrew the fittings. I think using the electrical tape, which is PVC, would be adequate alone when trying to seal the outside from air leaks. But...what do I know.
I seriously doubt it's doing much at all.
Thanks for this video! I'm just starting out in this and a day after buying my Nexus Pro, I already painted it and performed the super easy upgrades seen in this video. Blaster shoots incredible and I never thought a foam blaster could shoot like this especially for the money. Two questions:
1-I'm going to use my airsoft chrono and am wondering: Is it common across the board in this hobby to use the 6mm setting in the chrono to measure one's FPS? I'm just looking to stay consistent with what is common in this hobby since I'm new to it.
2-I 3D printed the same spacer and am wondering if you were to try the Turf spring again but this time cut the spacer down maybe 1/2 way then maybe 3/4 of the way if that might improve your ability to prime? I haven't ordered new springs yet to try for myself and that's why I ask.
xXG.L.HXx great questions, and welcome to the hobby!! So as far as the chrono goes, I just used whatever the stock measure that comes on when you boot it so the 6mm setting seems ok to me. Number might be a bit hotter in this model because I’ve test the same setup of stock spring and spacer on a Caldwell and was hitting around 189 to 195 but don’t know what that was set to. Regarding springs, the turf spring by itself without a spacer for me personally is a hard prime as is but is manageable on the field, but it will leave you tired. Great idea about trying cutdown versions though, I haven’t thought to give that a go but I’ll look into. For me though, I’ve found the stock spring with spacer combo to be the perfect amount of power with the best consistent shots.
@@KBFoamStrike Thank you, I appreciate the replies! When I have a chance, I'll weigh the Adventure Force half dart and compare it to the weight of a typical .20g 6MM BB. Usually, airsoft specific chronos have BB weight and size options in it's menu layout so you can compensate for weight/size of the BB you are using. While there is a 8mm BB, the 6mm .20g BB is the standard size used in most fields. It will weigh less than a 6mm .28g BB which is heavier and will hit harder at the expense of range and FPS drop. That also means that chronoing your gun using .28's at your local field then switching to .20's during the games will have you shooting much hotter then the field limit. Fields overcome this issue by requiring you to chrono at the field using .20's regardless of what actual BB weight you intend to use, that way you'll never shoot hot as using a heavier BB will only cause FPS drops.
The point is: I think that if we determine the weight of a typical dart, and chrono using the correct setting (at least with an Airsoft chrono) we'll achieve more accurate FPS readings.
BTW, what type of springs are "drop in" springs for this blaster? I'm looking to buy a few and experiment
xXG.L.HXx I’ve had the best results using springs designed for the JET Ceda. I’ve tried the 10kg and the 12kg Turf spring and they seem to work in the system. I believe outofdarts may also have some Nexus specific springs available on their store too.
@@KBFoamStrike Thank you!
xXG.L.HXx you’re welcome!!
Thanks for the tutorial! Just ordered my brass!
Ryan Genovese awesome, happy to help!!!
Would be interested in seeing you test the brass with a variety of short darts. ie. Worker & AF waffle.
I know that waffles will not work the heads are the same size as the foam and since the 13/32" squishes the foam more than necessary Dart heads are significantly worse this causes binding and the dart heads tent fold over in the barrel causing jams. If you want a set up waffle darts then 9/16" with tightening rings to give it a very mild fit on the darts and maybe even waxing the barrel to help lubricate them as they fly through the barrel.
@@zeanyt2372, what would you use for wax?
@@seniorxj2931 you wax the barrels to reduce friction and to make a better seal. Chris uses bicycle chain wax as the first few layers applies some to the tip the dart and then fires it thin pledge down the back of a dart fires it and then uses a dry dart to polish and remove over spray repeats multiple times until a mirror like finish is achieved. Also you need to let the wax dry before you apply another coat for every coat.
@@zeanyt2372 so you apply bicycle chain oil to a dart then shoot it to wax it??
@@seniorxj2931 he said wax. I'm going to rewatch the video so I can get you the link. Wait HE DID NOT! I am such a goober so times.
I think I would just use a spring spacer. I like the slightly looser tolerances of the barrel for wider dart compatibility, As I'm not always throwing fresh darts down it. I also don't trust the longevity of electrical tape as a fitting. The glue in electrical tape likes to seep out and lose its adhesiveness overtime. I think Press-fitting a brass insert into the stock aluminum barrel would be the optimal choice, along with using some plumbers tape for a little bit of a better seal at the breach. Also wouldn't really want the extended barrel interfearing with the press fit tip because of the utility that bit has for hilariously allowing this blaster to fire basically anything outside of a #girthdart and Demolisher Missile. But still impressive performance increase for that little of actual work.
Hey man! I promise I won't become a pain in the ass but while I love the range I'm getting (I've only tested to 82ft) but I notice my groupings are a bit erratic. Do you think I can add a scar end to my brass as is or is it best to cut it down a bit due to the whole 'volume' thing?
xXG.L.HXx you can definitely add a scar to the whole foot of brass. I use the ZRO barrel from the JET ceda on mine sometimes and it works quite well. Drops the FPS about 10 or so but you will get a much more straight shot for sure.
@@KBFoamStrike Thank you! Been learning a lot in so little time. My 3D printer has been very busy lately😁
Nice video! How long is your spring spacer? I'm looking to make a spacer myself out of PVC pipe to achieve about the same FPS as your spacer, but I'm not sure how how long to make it.
This is roughly 20mm.
Great mod man!! It also worked in my MAX STRIKER. Keep the good content
Thank you! Awesome, enjoy 🤙🏻
@@KBFoamStrike Mine won’t prime back all the way do I need a different spring or did I do something wrong?
@@Flartmoney96 could be too much tape, or either your spring rest cap is causing a jam.
@@KBFoamStrike Ok thx man Great vid Btw I couldn’t find one that actually went into detail
Nice to see what I’m gonna be up against
Awesome mod, thanks for the info!
I could not get a long dart to fire with the stock spring. Is it supposed to be like that?
Yes, this mod is intended for short darts. Tighter barrels like this brass don’t work well with long darts, especially waffle tip darts. The included long darts that come with the Nexus can work sometimes because they have a smaller head but they can be hit or miss.
@@KBFoamStrike would cutting the barrel down 4 inches change the performance alot?
We don’t need to mode it it’s already to op 👍🏾🔥🤗😁💯
I hope I get this Blaster for my birthday
OR just reverse the spring rest cap...free spring spacer! Only trouble is you have to open up the blaster if you want to reverse.
would you be able to do a mod video on the MAX Stryker? thinking its very similar to this Nexus mod tutorial
Awesome video, definitely regretting not grabbing two to mod one and keep the other stock.
@TeamBringIt8
I did just that and am extremely glad I did!
@@Videos4uByme Nice, I live in Australia so it's abit pricey for 2. I got one for $149
@TeamBringIt8
Oh, that is a bit more than the $50 I paid for just one here in the USA.
Hopefully, you’ll be able to get a 2nd one soon!
@@Videos4uByme yea I just consider myself lucky I got one. It's about $109 Usd so just over double but not bad for shipping halfway across the world haha
@TeamBringIt8
Oh, so $50 Usd for blaster and then another $59 Usd for shipping?
This blaster is so worth that money for sure!
Hey KB would you recommend this blaster to a 15-year-old, because I’m 15 And after seeing this video I actually would like to get one of those
For sure! The prime on this isn't bad at all in it's stock form. Adding that spacer can make it a bit tougher but still shouldn't be too bad. Accuracy on this is also top notch.
@@KBFoamStrike good
With a spacer and brass my catch won't catch anymore. It will without the spacer though
hey kb foam strike, I was wondering if elite darts work with this set up? like does the adventure force nexus pro work with elite darts in a 17/32 brass barrel? if so what is the fps numbers?
I love half length darts buts its harder to find them after a war LOL and elites are cheaper and once I glue the heads on the darts, they actually arent that terrible at least in my opinion.
I believe they will work but they probably won’t fly or feed as consistent as shorts. I would say just stick with the stock barrel for elites and add a spacer or stronger spring if you want more power with them.
You kenn ad a skar berrel and leave the stock berrel and put a spacer .on my mod i got 179-184 as avreg
Should I invest in the worker primer kit? The barrel mod is DIY but to reinforce it with a metal primer seems like a good idea
It’s worth a shot. I’ve been running this setup for close to a year now in roughly 50 games and haven’t had any issues sticking with the stock spring and spacer combo hitting 200fps.
I think barrel length is important. After a inch or two there's a lot of drag
Late reply but it effectiveness of barrel length depends on barrel material, barrel dart fit, plunger tube volume, and air seal to name a few factors. If you only had a 1 or 2 inches of effective barrel lengthon the nexus pro it would reduce the performance
What can you shoot with the brass mod?
Does full length darts also work?
I did the same exact thing but now when I shoot half length darts they go 10 feet then drop or the spin around mid air any tips?
Could be the seal isn’t the best or either the brass isn’t properly aligned.
will the brass fit inside the aluminum barrel? 2 reasons, one probably more structurally sound than just electrical tape and would help with centering, and two, lop the brass equal to the aluminum or maybe just shy of it and go stealth about it.
koolBOY8323 unfortunately it will not. Trust me, that was my first idea too but it’s not big enough. You could always get more brass and sleeve each until it fits but then you’re talking like $30 or so of brass.
Question. at 0:17 seconds you have that Black plastic on top with a small spring right
I opend up my own gun and it doesnt have that part. but it stil shoots fine.
Do you know what the black part on top is for ?
You have a 3d printer why did you use electrical tape i stead of printing a shim?
You can deprime the nexus pro by pressing the button on top above the catch
you mean that little button on the top rail?
Yes
@@realholyrosaries thx it works!
U can put the spring rest cap on backwards and it does the same this as a tuning cap
From what I heard you can flip the stock spring piece around turning it into a spacer
Yeah I’ve been seeing that too but the plastic on it seems pretty thin so don’t know how long it’ll last.
Which piece?
MikeTeehan that orange piece behind the spring
@@sergeantsriracha8295 mine doesn't seem to come out
MikeTeehan it’s is the first piece that comes out with the spring when you take the spring out the back
Are you sure that the 17/32 tube fits. I bought the tube and the bullets don’t seem to go through it when I push it in.
I had the exact same question. It is very tight. Mine is almost finished. Once I completed I'll let you know if it works or not. The next brass size up, is 5/8 in brass. Which is the equivalent of 20/32. So 3/32 is bigger. So if this doesn't work, I'm going to try that.
Yes, I used 17/32 brass. There are some better options than tape out there now to fit the barrel in but it can be tough getting it precisely lined up. This was two years ago when I made it so it might be best to go with a Worker kit or something like that if you can't get the proper fit.
I did this. This is insaine. Could you try to do the brass barrel and a chungus spring form draconical on the aeon pro? I want to see if it does anywhere near 200 FPS
Problem with spacers is that they will damage tour internals and the spring quickly
Im going to be using the brass mod and throw in a ceda spring.
Very nice! Get ready to deliver some major tags on the field 🤙🏻
I did this mod and with no spring spacer mine has an average of 195
Great guide. Although with the brass breech and no spacer every 4th or so pro half dart barley makes its way out of the barrel. what do you think my issue is.
Just ensure the tape hasn’t come loose and the barrel is perfectly centered is all I can think of. Check the air seal as well and make sure it’s air tight by sticking your hand over the barrel and dry firing like I did at the end of this video.
@@KBFoamStrike Did the air seal test and its great. Maybe the barrel isnt completely straight, did you smoothen out the ends of the brass?
@@scottmacdonald7667 In the past I have had to do that to make the darts travel smoother on my Kronomag build so definitely worth a try.
@@KBFoamStrike Thanks for the help!
@@scottmacdonald7667 you’re welcome 👍🏻
Awesome, 1 question, why I don't see any modder padding the head of the plunger tube? Nexus pro does not have an air restrictor by default and with all this spring force, it would easily break the plunger head. Can someone enlighten me?
What is the pump-action pull length in mm or inch? I may add a linear actuator for my little son to prime it as I had 1 lay around.
Definitely could use a proper adapter, as that consistency is noticeably worse. Higher numbers, sure, but greater variance between those numbers, as you're likely hitting the lip of that barrel internally.
Is it worth applying plumber's tape over stock barrel to get a better seal? Or it's fine already?
technicalru I haven’t tried it but it might be worth a shot. The problem with the stock barrel is it isn’t a tight fit on the dart so naturally it’s not a true air seal.
Instructions Unclear: Electrical taped my plumber's cracker!
I’m having a a completely different experience with this mod .. worker gen 3’s are barely falling out of the barrel at the full 12” length and the dzp stock darts aren’t doing much better. After shortening the barrel to nearly stock length I’m experiencing wild inconsistency, low 190’s on my high shot and 110’s on my low. I hand fit some suspect o-rings on the pusher, re-greased the system and air seal is improved and acceptable, plugging the barrel on a dry fire holds pressure for several seconds. Am I missing something ? I’m incredibly frustrated lol.
I’ve only really used the dart zone/adventure force darts. All the tests I’ve done in this vid are only with those darts and they did great. I just tested some workers myself and had the same issue of some flying out great and then some others just barely popping out. I’m going to guess it’s the darts and maybe has something to do with the different foam.
@@KBFoamStrike Performance is lackluster even while using the oem darts, I suppose I’ll take a trip to Walmart tomorrow morning and grab a reload pack, hopefully I have better luck with that batch.
@@Doublequarterpoundcake dang that’s a bummer, sorry. Good luck!
@@KBFoamStrike I’m very happy to report that after impregnating the 17/32 with Teflon lube I’m seeing stellar results, 201- 208 FPS with the dznp darts. Running to Wally World to buy every reload pack haha.
I've recently moded my Stryker and Nexus but now I'm getting a problem where when I fire them some of the darts get straight cuts on them causing those ones to stop in the barrel. The other darts fire short distances and others fine but I do notice a score imprint on where they would have cut open. Did you have this complication too and if so do you know what could be the issue?
I have had this happen before and it usually has to do with the barrel needing to be deburred. Alignment sometimes can cause this as well but usually it’s the entry of the barrel not being smoothed out that causes this. Using some sandpaper and a razor blade can typically do the trick. Hope this helps 🤙🏻
@@KBFoamStrike I was afraid that the fps upgrade would cause the darts to rupture but I never considered that the tubing needed rounding. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have to test that.
Dumb question, but what’s the best spacer to get and from where
Hey can you please give a link to the upgrade turf spring? That would be great.
foamfreaks.com/listing/826353253/ceda-turf-blaster-spring here u go homie
I bought the same exact brass tubing and none of my darts shoot through the entire barrel. I use waffle tops and DartZone pro darts. It's wayyyy too tight of a fit for anything and I'm going to have to return it.
The blaster is being delivered tomorrow and I don't know if I should install this barrel seeing as not one dart can fit or slide all the way through the barrel.
Do I need a different size?
Waffle darts will never work. Pro darts will work but only when fired from the blaster. 17/32 brass has a tight fit and is what helps create the proper air seal and gives you the increase of power and performance. Darts are not supposed to slide freely out of the brass so it’s doing the right thing, the darts will only fly out from the power of the air generated by the blaster.
@@KBFoamStrike waffles are the only darts I use, so this mod isnt for me.
And plus, doesn't the long tight barrel add a ton of friction and slow down the dart?
How do you think a barrel of a sliiiighlty wider I.D would work? I can't not use waffles, so I sort of wasted my money with this mod.
@@xxTHExxABYSSxx just leave the stock barrel in because it will fire waffles, about 115 to 125 FPS. This platform is mainly for short darts so if you want to hit those high 200 numbers I’d invest in some short AF pro darts.
@@KBFoamStrike I bought 100 of them. Installing the tube now. Yeah waffles suck in this.
Instead of brass have you tried pvc pipe barrel? Im not sure if u get the same size as brass but something closer may work
Haven’t tried it, sure there is something out there but $4 brass is good enough for me.
So if anyone on here is a cheapo like myself or doesn't have access to a 3D printer the thicker wire coat hangers work great as spacers just make sure to wrap around where you would put a spacer and snip the ends off with wire cutters 😅
oh man, everytime i see someone say "this doesnt fit, so we are gonna do this" i'm saying make one in the lathe, and let out a sigh when they wrap tape around it. I'm a kid that got punished by about 25 more years going by while i spaced out. So I have kids and getting them into nerf, but I have a mechanical engineering degree now and a 16x60 south bend lathe and know how to use it!
Try the Nuromax striker try that one
lets have a moment of silence for that blanket
Did u do anything to the brass so the dart can slide right through?
I didn’t do anything, just straight out of the package. If you want a looser fit on the dart you can use 9/16” brass but I haven’t done any testing with that.
@@KBFoamStrike wow ok well i have the same brass you used but its a super tight fit on the dart it doesnt slide right thru i think 9/16 is to loose
@@eastlake_kicks it’s supposed to be a tight fit on the dart, that’s normal. The tight fit creates a better air seal for the dart to achieve higher performance when paired with the spacer or a heavier spring. The stock metal barrel it comes with has the dart fit a bit loose and makes the dart fall right out if you tilt the blaster down towards the ground and the 17/32” brass helps correct that issue as well.
@@KBFoamStrike ok um thx hope it works
Question, is there anyway to fix the loose prime handle grip that slides back and forward when it's not primed? Thx
Late reply, but the Nexus pro has a natural ~2 inches of prime slack at the beginning of the pull.
I still cant find this blaster on Any of the Walmarts in my area! Can't even find it on there website!
Senior XJ hopefully they’re going to start restocking them soon since the Aron pro blaster is coming out next month. I haven’t seen them at any my Walmart’s since the first day they came out. They must not have anticipated such a demand but I’m sure they’ll start popping up sooner than later.
@@KBFoamStrike I hope so. Just checked today and nadda. The have plenty of ultra nerf blasters though, lmao!
Found one online yesterday. They had a half dozen. Gone now of course, but they do show up.
What hits harder brass and spacer or brass and turf spring without a spacer?
So thats not bad for the fps for a blaster that really cant take much more power.
I just brassed a ceda sport, and with its stock 10kg apring and 12"s of brass, inatant 200fps, so then i dropped the AK Blaster Mods spring in and it got up to 259fps, with a very solid average of 243fps with a variance of only 13fps. My psycho ceda hits 305fps with heavily modded internals in a AK Blaster 16kg spring...
I can see I am going to have to get one of these and see just what i can get it too...
Nice video, very informative tutorial now I only wished they export overseas =( btw new sub here !
hi,I jus tried this mod put and my darts aren't shooting out properly,they are getting prob 100fps ish? I wished to get 210 above with my upgraded spring might it be because of the tolerances of brass and it being too tight? thanks
What darts are you using?
@@KBFoamStrike worker and AFPs both have the same issues,I think it might be vacumn loading since I have a almost perfect seal but would love to hear more opinions.Also have you tried the epoxy putty mod on the priming bar?
@@Juan-nz1gu I’ve not tried epoxy putty but that should be a sturdy solution. Sounds like too much of a seal could be the issue and increasing the spring power should help with that. Another common problem I’ve had doing these is getting that barrel to be perfectly aligned with the orange plastic piece but sounds like it’s a seal/power problem. I’ve also had to burr out the barrel before because the barrel was too tight. Good luck 🤙🏻
@@KBFoamStrike ah ok, thanks.I have a worker 1.8 in here so spring prob isn't the issue,most likely is vacumn loading,again thanks for this great vid really helped me a bunch
Can we use a pvc pipe piece tu upgrade the spring instead of the 3D printed thing I don't have a 3D printer in town ?
Donato Franco absolutely, I’ve heard from multiple people that they’ve used pvc and it works perfectly for them.
wouldnt it be a lil better to cut the barrel at the end? Sorry, am new, genuine question lol
You could definitely do that but it will decrease the power and FPS of the darts firing out.
Uhm my nexus pro lost its spring rest cap that went inside of the blaster, Should i Be worried?
You should be fine, I believe it’s just in there to act as a guide for the spring but this is the first blaster I’ve ever seen use one.
Would a similar mod like this work with the aeon, like the same barrel.
I would of put the Teflon tape on the brass to help fit it to the plastic rather than the electrical tape and then used electrical tape to cover the gap as the electrical tape has glue.
Also you can stick a Scar over top of the brass for accuracy
Wait why is the spring catch rest important? Does it just absorb the shock for the plunger head?
Carson Diaz from what I can tell it helps keep the spring in alignment. I guess if you wanted you could take it out but seems good to me in there.
im doing this today. except i dont have a 3d printer so.... minus the spring upgrade. hope my local ace hardware has some brass tubing in stock.
You can find some pvc in the correct size for a spacer as well. Or the spring guide works as well, just flip it around.
@@paul022887 do you think the sspring guide is atrong enough to be used like that flipped in reverse?
@@jpak1130 It should last a bit. PVC is cheap too though. And Out of Darts is making a pretty cool end piece that holds the spring in. He will have one for lower FPS, one for higher, and one adjustable as well.
@@paul022887 yeah i got some small pvc cut it down and it seems to be working great. i dont have to flip the spring guide, and i got enough pipe to make like 100 spacers lol thanks for the advice! wish i had a chrono to test the gains...
1 inch CPVC and sand it down about 3/8 of an inch so it slips in the end cap just like the printed spacer. Oh and yes brass will be next.
How did you get the stock flash hider to stay on the muzzle if the e tape is taking up the space inside the barrel aligner?
Gerank Fok depending on how you tape it there can be a slight gap remaining to have the flash hider barely rest on the muzzle. As long as it’s touching the muzzle you can just tape it down from there.
I just did the brass mod for my son, and he says it is harder to cock now. What could I have done wrong to cause this? I did not do the spacer mod so the spring should behave the same. I thought I installed the spring back correctly but now I'm second guessing. Have taken it apart a few times now not sure what I did. Thanks for the video it's a great mod
Sometimes too much tape on the barrel or around the seal where the brass connects to the plastic can make it hard for the slide to easily glide over the barrel when priming. I had this issue when I was recently installing brass to a Max Stryker and taking out some tape fixed it right up.
@@KBFoamStrike thanks I figured it out. I had that cylindrical piece that goes between the spring and the plunger backwards. It essentially was acting like a spacer
@@brandonkellogg9590 gotcha gotcha, that’ll definitely do it. Glad it was an easy fix 🤙🏻
A year later, how's this holding up? Just got the barrel and my spring will be here in a week.
It’s still working great. It has lost some performance with the stock spring, going from hitting a little over 200fps with spacer to now about 190fps, but still a great blaster.
@@KBFoamStrike Nice. I just got into the hobby and saw some mods out there that were pretty pricey. This was definitely easy enough for me and worth the price. Literally just finished putting the barrel and everything back together. Only difference was I didn't have enough space to put the tip insert back on but I'm okay with that. Thanks again dude!
@@changgnesia8998 you’re welcome!! Enjoy 🤙🏻
@@KBFoamStrike I hope this isn't too much to ask but do you think you will do a video of this mod for the Max Stryker? I just got one and want to buff the sniper aspects of it.
@@KBFoamStrike Also wanted to know if there where any spacer alternatives if a 3d printer wasn't available, thanks.
Would it shoot harder with a shorter brass?
I did this but I’ve realized after a week or so the air will leak again and I have to fix it again and again
Might need to try a stickier tape, perhaps duct tape or just a thicker amount of e-tape.
Can u make a video about modding the Aeon pro? Thx
Legends says the 999 was not a glitch
Hey if you can can you show us how to brass a aeon pro?
I should do it soon
How is the prime on stock spring w/ spacer vs prime with the turf spring (no spacer)?
Alex Marin honestly for me it is an easier prime using the stock spring with spacer combo over the turf spring. That turf spring is kind of too long for this blaster so it kind of bends and gets bound up occasionally. Power wise you can get some harder shots with the turf spring but it’s not as consistent as the stock spring with spacer I’ve found.
@@KBFoamStrike Thanks! Sounds like stock spring and brass is the way to go if you want turf perfomance and consistency/easier prime!
Is there a scar barrel that can easily fit with this?
There’s one by captain slug on thingiverse that fits brass. Any friction fit scar can fit too if you wrap enough tape at the end of the barrel.
Do you think it is possible to brass barrel the aeon pro of any way to boost performance on that platform?
I think so but haven’t tested it myself. I’m looking into doing it soon and possibly doing a video on it.
@@KBFoamStrike looking forward to it!
Will a 1/2 inch brass tube work? Or is that a bit too small?
I believe that will be too small.
@@KBFoamStrike ... Thanks. I'm going to my local store and getting a 17/32 brass barrel.
@@danielalvarez8729 you’re welcome 👍🏻
Any reason you didn't bell the chamber end of the brass?
Nope, you definitely can though with plenty of space.
so you have 2 nexus pros
Easy LEGO tutorials I have one and then the other that I brassed is my buddy Garrett’s.
I bought the brass to do this but it seems too small. I can barely push a dart thru it
oodamnagain 17/32 is a perfect fit for the darts so as long as you use that and make sure everything is centered when adding the e-tape it will fire nicely. Pushing with a hand or a finger the dart will not go through because it’s supposed to have a snug fit and only the power from the air in the blaster will make it come out.
I had the same issue and the tube popped out on the first fire. I done it exactly the same as yours.
Holy shit I need a simple way to get my nexus pro up to 200 fps, this looks awesome!
On an unrelated note, I primed a few times with the turf ceda spring and now my stock won't hold up against a prime now, got a solution?
Gerank Fok hmmm not sure about that, I’ve got to say though after I used the turf spring in the blaster without a spacer that the spring actually started to warp. I’ve heard of people cutting a coil or two off the turf spring and that can help a little with priming but as far stock collapse I don’t have a solution. Perhaps trying to fill the stock with something like pvc could help reinforce it.
@@KBFoamStrike the worst part is that I don't know if the stock itself or the buffer tube is the reason the stock collapses on me now. It looks kinda like both took minor damage but the second to shortest stock setting works just fine even though I only really use it on the longest. Not even swapping back to the completely stock setup will give the stock its rigidity back
Gerank Fok dang, that’s unfortunate. Maybe a new m4 stock for air soft or something could help.
Try wrapping any thick/duck tape, on to the plunger tube. But first adjust the stock to how you like it. Then you should how some of the plunger tube exposed if you did move the stock back from the shortest position. Then start wrapping the tape on to the exposed tube.
BTW I'd used electrical tape so removing the tape wouldn't be as ugly as other tapes when removed. Hope this helps.
XD
am i stupid or is there a sping spacer inside of the buffertube when you first get the nexus pro
There is a spring rest cap inside that you could technically flip around and use as a spacer but the risk of it breaking over time due to it being very thin plastic is my only concern.
@@KBFoamStrike " ah fuck it "
To help with the turf spring with a spacer you can just put in metal internals