All of this guys videos are right on the money. I have built transmissions for nearly 35 years was out of the business form.05 to 21 lot had changed. I now build exclusively for Trutech Automotive in Debary Fl. Come on by and visit us if in the area.
Man I’m swapping my 68rfe here shortly but i might fuck around and keep the core and see if I can’t rebuild it myself and get it good again. Doesn’t seem really that bad from a few videos Ive seen. Always good to see how stuff works. Great video 🤙
Thanks. They are not that bad. Just be meticulous with the O/D-U/D drum. There is a lot going on there and it does not take kindly to being assembled wrong. One snap ring in the wrong spot or pressure plate upside down and it will not work.
i'm about to do mine, I have slippage on the 5th gear. Likely burned out clutches so going to do a rebuild myself. Was quoted $8000 from a local transmission shop and a three week wait. This is in Canada. Surely if I'm very attentive to how it comes apart it will be earier to remember how it goes back together will help plus the videos.@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Excellent videos Tom. Finishing up a 5-45RFE and my kit also came with the pump stator gasket. Gasket seems to reduce input shaft endplay - gasket is .013 and when I installed it I had zero end play so I removed it and got about .013 endplay - still less than the .018 minimum so thinking I need to change input selective shim to loosen it up a bit - currently it has a #35 shim in it and shim pack from mopar comes with #30 - #37 - do you know which one would get me where I need to be ? - output shaft end play ended up at .012 so I’m happy with that - Thanks
#35 is .106. So, if you are at zero with it, you need #39 .128. That would put you at .022. End play should be .020-.029. #37 is .117, that would put you at .011. Rear end play is .010-.020 so you are good there. Thanks for watching.
This valve is probably worn out. There are 2 different sizes but the 68 is usually the .453. I use the Sonnax one but if you don't have the tools the Transgo will be your cheaper option. The Overdrive clutches will be burned if you have been driving it for a while like that. transgo.com/product-details/solenoid-switch-valve-kits/
Most of our kits come from WIT or Transtar. Get the Transtec kit. Links are in the description. Dealership also sells a good kit. It will come with most of everything you need.
All depends on the upgrades you have done and how much damage there is. The price of parts have gone up dramatically this last year. I have not been part of the pricing end in a long time so I am not sure, but it used to run in the mid 3's to 4500 for a normal build without performance parts. You could get up in the 8's if you wanted billet shafts and triple billet torque converter and such. There is a lot of performance parts for this transmission.
Great detailed assembly. You highlighted critical steps very well. Thanks.
Thank you, thanks for watching.
Hey what state are u In?
All of this guys videos are right on the money. I have built transmissions for nearly 35 years was out of the business form.05 to 21 lot had changed. I now build exclusively for Trutech Automotive in Debary Fl. Come on by and visit us if in the area.
Will do. Almost went to Florida once when I was in Alabama just to mark another state off of my list. Thanks for watching.
Man I’m swapping my 68rfe here shortly but i might fuck around and keep the core and see if I can’t rebuild it myself and get it good again. Doesn’t seem really that bad from a few videos Ive seen. Always good to see how stuff works. Great video 🤙
Thanks. They are not that bad. Just be meticulous with the O/D-U/D drum. There is a lot going on there and it does not take kindly to being assembled wrong. One snap ring in the wrong spot or pressure plate upside down and it will not work.
i'm about to do mine, I have slippage on the 5th gear. Likely burned out clutches so going to do a rebuild myself. Was quoted $8000 from a local transmission shop and a three week wait. This is in Canada. Surely if I'm very attentive to how it comes apart it will be earier to remember how it goes back together will help plus the videos.@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Thanks for watching.
An amazing video!!! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Suggestion. Try a Chrysler OD shim, instead of the C6 bushing. Works pretty good.
Thanks for the tip! Found that the K1 piston from a Mercedes 722.6 works perfectly.
Excellent video thanks
Thanks for watching.
Excellent videos Tom. Finishing up a 5-45RFE and my kit also came with the pump stator gasket. Gasket seems to reduce input shaft endplay - gasket is .013 and when I installed it I had zero end play so I removed it and got about .013 endplay - still less than the .018 minimum so thinking I need to change input selective shim to loosen it up a bit - currently it has a #35 shim in it and shim pack from mopar comes with #30 - #37 - do you know which one would get me where I need to be ? - output shaft end play ended up at .012 so I’m happy with that - Thanks
#35 is .106. So, if you are at zero with it, you need #39 .128. That would put you at .022. End play should be .020-.029. #37 is .117, that would put you at .011. Rear end play is .010-.020 so you are good there. Thanks for watching.
You evr have issues w/P0871 OD rationality?
This valve is probably worn out. There are 2 different sizes but the 68 is usually the .453. I use the Sonnax one but if you don't have the tools the Transgo will be your cheaper option. The Overdrive clutches will be burned if you have been driving it for a while like that. transgo.com/product-details/solenoid-switch-valve-kits/
I need to repair a 2008 68RFE transmission, what is the location of the workshop?
Sorry, I don't give out my location. Go here to find a shop. Thanks for watching. www.atra.com/ShopFinder
where did you purchase this rebuild kit?
Most of our kits come from WIT or Transtar. Get the Transtec kit. Links are in the description. Dealership also sells a good kit. It will come with most of everything you need.
thank you!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
How much does a rebuild like this cost?
All depends on the upgrades you have done and how much damage there is. The price of parts have gone up dramatically this last year. I have not been part of the pricing end in a long time so I am not sure, but it used to run in the mid 3's to 4500 for a normal build without performance parts. You could get up in the 8's if you wanted billet shafts and triple billet torque converter and such. There is a lot of performance parts for this transmission.
Piston should of been new!!
No
I replace. EVERY moulded piston on o/h. Not doing it is like not replacing the seals on an old school piston.