Here's What It's Like to Charge an EV At a Campsite - Hint: Other Campers Don't Really Like You!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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#Ford #Lightning #Campground #Charging
Yup. Had the same problem. You can’t charge an EV on a TT30 if you’re using a 14-50 adapter. They do make a TT30 adapter that is designed for EVs. It switches one of the wires around to make it work. Like others have said, the charger is looking for 240, but tt30 is 120v.
I tried the same exact thing when I first got my Tesla, the charger is looking for two legs and the TT30 only is providing a single.
The TT-30 to 14-50 adapter likely connects to 120V to both Hot legs of 14-50 and the Neutral and grounds to their respective pins. This allows the RV to get power. But EV EVSE chargers are looking across both Hot legs, which are both connected/shorted. So you need a special EV only (not for RV) adapter that will put the 120V Hot on one leg and the TT-30 neutral on the other 14-50 hot leg. This adapter will work for an EV charger, but could damage an RV. I'm looking to charge my Tesla on a TT-30 RV outlet using the 6-50 Tesla connector. Hopefully the mobile connector will work on 120V/30A from a TT-30 to 6-50 welder adapter. I wiill have to manually set charge current to 24A or less.
@@jb3246 I have the tt-30 as well as the 120v 30 amp twist lock adapters from EVSE. Being that we’re rvers we have that connection at our house as well as many of our family members homes. They both work great and push 120v at 24amps to my model 3. I call it level 1.5 charging. Will fully charge a Tesla 80kwh battery from 0-100 in less than 28 hours.
My experience goes back three years but my wife and I spent 2 months camping with an EV and pop-up trailer going cross-country. We always asked if we could charge our EV in the campground and only had one owner indicate he would meter us and charge accordingly. We found another campground nearby that did not have any issues with our charging. When possible we would supercharge relatively near the campground, especially if we were staying only one night. Staying several nights with reasonable day trips and the energy usage likely averages out to a large RV.
If one pulls into the campsite 50 kWh low a $10 bill goes a long way to making the campsite owner whole.
Ten dollars?
I'll bet you tip fifty cents in restaurants.
@@macmckenzie1242 That comment certainly adds to the discussion
A dollar and no more (unless they forget my ice).
Sorry but if the campsite is not charging extra for 50 amp service, then they don’t deserve anything extra because you are using 40 Amps. A large class A running all 3 of his A/C units will use that amount as well. I can see if you were just using the site as a charging stop, but if I am hauling my camper, the end use of the electricity is none of their business. Are they going to police how many A/C units people are using?
@@cherokee180c0 Consider the class A as a small house. A small house will consume about 25 kWh/day. It seems reasonable that a class A would approach that. If I stay only one night, I am essentially using the campsite as a charging stop if I do not charge prior to arrival. For me, that can be as much as 60 kWh in addition to my modest camping needs. For those nights, I do not mind if the campsite expects additional compensation. When I stay several days, my average energy consumption will be in line with what a class A would consume on the pad.
Due to possibly sketchy power distribution, I limit my charging current to 20 or 25-amperes since I have all night to charge.
other campers can mind their own business
Exactly.
I don’t care if other campers use ac or not.
The Karen’s can mind their own business.
Can I fuel up my ICE tow vehicle there, too?
If you see other people you are not really camping
@@billeldonDunno, can you?
@@billeldon nobody is stopping from towing with an EV and getting a 'Free' charge
The sad part is although the electric pedestals have 50-amp breakers, the average RV site has only about 22-amps available with the older parks because many were built in the 20-30 amp 120-volt era and the transformers were never updated. This was true with the parks we managed in south central Florida. I am a fan of electric cars and we ended up leaving the last job before we could get our F-150 ordered as I added a 50/30/20 amp electric pedestal to the manager house site.
The reason your 30-amp dongle did not work is because the 50-amp base adapter you were starting with expected 240 volts with both hotlines, a neutral, and a ground. The 30-amp dongle drops one of the two hot lines so it won't power it on your Ford Adapter. Ford needs to either produce a 30-amp adapter or allow you to reprogram the 20-amp to a 30-amp twist connect adapter. It's basically like the 120-volt 20-amp on steroids with 10 more added amps. I am glad you did that test as I do not think Ford figured that part out either. -David Knapp
Yeah I went camping with my Tesla Model S and had to restrict my charger to 20A to avoid blowing the 50A breaker.
@@danieljohnkirby9412 I am glad that all campgrounds aren't like that, but the number of underperforming electric pedestals surprises me. I remember a campground in Kansas that had 40-amp breakers instead of 50, the owner was honest and said the power company refused to bring in a larger transformer unless he paid $50,000 in neighborhood feeder upgrades. Obviously, every location will be different. Keep up the faith & someday we'll be in electric flying cars like the Jetsons. I was just born when that series was created, LOL.
Buy ektric. Fird f150
You are extremely informative. Thanks for your knowledgeable input! Loving out Lightning. How about you?
For tt30 to 14-50 to work you need an adapter that puts the hot from tt30 to hot1 on 14-50 and common from tt30 to hot2 on 14-50. The adapter from big box stores put the tt30 hot to both 14-50 hots creating 0V differential. A EV only adapter (or home made) are the only ones that will work because of how the standard adapters for RVs work.
This is the right answer. I've been charging my EV at campgrounds for a while, and you need an EV-specific TT-30 to 14-50 adapter. The regular RV adapters won't work.
Also, wouldn't the car slow down at 80%? Or is that only on DC?
@@afdave7 no slowdowns until like 98-99% on those AC amperages
Ok but you will need a special ev charger to select 24amp max ?
@@mathieupetit6001 the Tesla portable charger is capable of doing 24A @ 120V but most EVSEs limit you to 12A (80% of a 15A circuit) or maybe 16A (80% of 20A). The car itself can also limit the power draw, reportedly my Ioniq 5 will only pull 16A @ 120V even with the Tesla charger (using a J1772 adapter) as tested by one of my fellow owners.
Excellent video, thank you! I own an EV and routinely charge at campgrounds. A couple points to consider. 1. Most campgrounds have circuit breakers at the campsite as well as in a remote location, commonly referred to as the master breakers for multiple campsites. If you draw too many amps while charging your EV, you can trip a master breaker and shut off a group of campsites. Not good! 2. Some EVs can regulate the current amps for level two charging. My EV (Volvo C40) can limit amps from 6 to 48amps. I always limit the draw to 30 or less when overnight camping.
A quick way to get your ev constantly unplugged while attempting to charge
The charger is expecting 240 V because it has a Nema 14-50 adapter connected to it. When you then use a pigtail to connect to your TT-30 to the Nema 14-50 adapter, the charger is only seeing 120 V instead of the expected 240 V. This is why you’re not getting the blue light and charging. If charging had started, the charging box has no way to know that it should limit itself to 30 A, so it would most likely trip the breaker anyway.
Agreed. The TT-30 receptacle is only 120V, not 240V. One big clue to this is the single breaker. Notice how the 240V receptacle has a dual ganged breaker. Single breakers are 120V. The charger doesn’t understand what’s going on with the 120V input. But even if it could work, there’s not much point because at best it is Level 1 charging speed halved.
100%. Anytime you use an adapter that allows a high power device to use a lower power outlet, there is a fire/tripped breaker/melted wire risk (breakers are constantly flipped in campsites so they can get worn out). The safest bet is to only use adapters to go down. For example, sometimes campsites only have 50a breakers, but my camper is 30a. I can safely use an adapter since I will not be overloading the circuit.
Many EVSEs will be happy with an outlet that should be 240vac but is actually 120vac. The Tesla mobile connector is okay with this, for example. Most likely they had the wrong kind of dogbone which left one of the hots open, but I suppose the Ford EVSE might be extra picky.
The dongle puts the same phase of 110 on each leg of the 220, so zero net volts. Some RV appliances can handle this
Normal 220 in the US is two 110 volt lines running out of phase, so one goes up when the other goes down in voltage. Weirdly that is less safe to humans than 220 on one leg like the UK.
It probably would work if the second hot is connected to neutral, but then it would likely limit itself to 12A.
We set our charger amps on the Model Y for 12 amps and this is for over night at home. When camping we set our amps at 20 for overnight. This always gets us to 92% charge. Here we run the air-conditioning for sleeping. Still charging overnight is no problem to get the 90 + percent we need to get on the road the next morning. I travel often and sometimes just do a campsite instead of a motel room. Just easier to use the campsite showers and bathrooms than to check in to a motel for six hours .
i love camping and my opinion is, that if you reserve a spot with electricity, then you can use it however you want, if you have a tent that you sleep in and use it to charge your electric vehicle, or it's a bed camper or bed mounted tint, it does not matter, and nobody should be upset about it
I agree, and I foresee campgrounds adding master breakers in order to disable non-used campsite outlet boxes so people can't just pull in and charge their EV without paying for the space and power usage.
Pay for the campsite, and stay a while, maybe EV's might be a good thing, it will slow people down, maybe get them out in the wilderness more and see things they would never see otherwise.
I was just at a campsite in Northern California and they had posted every where saying no EV Vehicle charging. Didn’t ask any questions about it.
Your comment is ambiguous.
Everyone agrees that you should get whatever you paid for. However, power usage is variable, and if you're using more power than everyone else because you have to charge your EV on top of your normal camping power needs, you should pay an additional charge and not expect the extra cost of charging to be absorbed by the campsite owner, or be spread out to people who are using less power.
It'll end up being like baggage fees on an airline, which entitled people hate but is something that works fairly. Those who don't have anything to bring will get a discounted rate. But for those who brought 10 bags and the kitchen sink, they should pay for it out of their own pockets.
@@AkioWasRight Consistently running a AC on a camper will use more juice than charging a car.
@@fpartidafpartida So how does that follow what I said? What if I run my air conditioning AND charge my EV, am I only expected to pay for the AC's power usage but the EV is free of charge?
Follow what I said. You should pay for what you use.
Continue making these videos. These are all helping as I'm trying to decide what my next truck is going to be.
On a road trip last week I spent 3 nights in campgrounds for charging as a paying cabin guest. One campground just let me plug in for free, another charged me $20 on top of my regular reservation (worked out to $0.35/kWh) and another just flat out refused to let me plug in at any price.
The issue with the TT-30 to NEMA 14-50 is designed for RV’s, so it takes the hot wire to the two hot wires on the NEMA 14-50. So the voltage difference between the two hots on the 14-50 is zero volts. But since RV’s only use 120 volts it works fine for RV’s.
You need a special EV TT-30 to NEMA 14-50 adapter that will put the 120 volts across the two hots.
You need to get a specific TT30 to 14-50 adapter for EVs and make sure to limit the max amps to 24amps. One of the hots has to go to a neutral and the standard RV adapter doesn't do this.
This 💯 ^^^ I’m sure the the 30 amp to 50 amp adaptor is for RVs only. Wonder if they ever bought one wired for EVs.
Bingo. The wiring is different in the 30 to 50 RV vs the EV version.
It wasnt the circuit, it was the adapter. The tt30p to 1450r needs to say for eV use only. It's wired differently than a regular tt30
Agreed, I had this issue before as well. The ground pin on the TT-30 is off. The 14-50 ground pin is opposite the neutral. Ie, the opposite of the adapter they purchased. Getting the right adapter flips this pin.
Sorry I forgot that RV parks use a 30 amp 120 volt outlet. But it doesn't really matter cuz they had a 50 to plug into and thier evse should be on at least a 40 amp outlet
@@tbpod1 No, it's not the ground pin. The RV adapter connects the TT-30 hot line to both 14-50 hot lines, providing the EVSE with zero volts instead of 120 volts.
Circuits are not designed to pull full power continuously. You should only draw 80% of the circuit rating when charging for more than a few minutes so you don't overheat the breaker. You'll also find that the receptacles at some campgrounds can be worn out. If you don't have a good solid connection, you'll melt your adapter/plug.
The EVSE is designed with that in mind. With a regular 120V plug it will only charge at 12A (80% of 15A), regardless of whether it's plugged into a 15A or 20A circuit, because it has no way of knowing anything about the circuit. The problem is when you start using adapters on higher amperage circuits. It doesn't look like the EVSE they are using has any way to set the charging current besides knowing which plug is installed. So if they use the 14-50 plug and an adapter to plug it into a 30A dryer circuit, that will overload the circuit because the EVSE thinks it is still allowed to use 32A.
And all EVSEs are designed to draw only 80%. Only issue is when people start to use adapters which is when it's up to the user to manually lower the amperage to 80% of the circuit rating.
if it's a 50amp breaker the actual load on the circuit is probably 32amps although the circuit is rated for 40. They should be fine. If the plug is damaged that's on the campground.
Those 240 boxes at campgrounds use to drive me insane! I would’ve been surprised if it had worked 🤣🤣
That was not a 120volt 20 amp receptacle in the camp site breaker box, it was a 120 volt 15 amp receptacle.
I said the same thing. It's a NEMA 5-15 outlet.
I believe you but how can you tell it's a 15amp circuit? The video is not clear enough for me to make out the writing on the circuit breaker.
@@PeterJames143 The circuit might be 20 amps, but the receptacle is only 15Amps. A 20 amp receptacle has an additional slot perpendicular on one of the legs so it can accept either 15 or 20 amp plugs. Also, the charge adapter 120V dongle is a 15 Amp plug, so it's very unlikely that it would pull 20 amps. And due to the 80% continuous use rule, it's probably only pulling 12 Amps.
Really need an indicator lamp on all those adapter cables to verify you have power.
A 15 amp outlet can be on a 20 Amp circuit. Most of the time it is not the only outlet on the circuit, buy several.
Most people are seriously uneducated on how much power EV's use and how much power actually costs. While the f150 lightning uses a substantial amount compared to most electric vehicles it is very cheap to charge on level 2. However for example, my wife worked at a state park campground in Ohio. They regularly have power outages in summer during normal operations in hot weather and they ask people to run fridges on propane and turn up thermostats. Their electric system is not upgraded to the requirements of modern RV's. Just because a park has say 30 50 amp sites doesn't mean every site can draw 40 amps continuously. Air conditioners cycle on and off as most loads do. An ev is a constant load. Our grid is not adequately prepared for all EVs yet as well as most homes, campgrounds and such.
I would carry/use a voltmeter to check the outlets at the campsite; the voltage can very wildly in an campground. And it would be wise to include a surge protector for the same reason. Have fun !
Pointless, to measure voltage,if it is not under load.... A load would totally throw off your freshly measured values...
@@muppetpaster The volt meter would at least check if voltage current was in the 3 prong 220 outlet.
As a long time RV ‘er as well as an owner of several Teslas, I can tell you that IF RV folks are having any heartburn about parking electric vehicles in camping spots, it is 100% a lack of education in that crowd. Most of them don’t have the ability to purchase an electric vehicle that will appropriately haul their travel trailers, fifth wheels or class A electric guzzling dual air conditioning mansions on wheels. The campsite rental fee that is paid absolutely covers the cost of any electricity and probably uses less than some of those gigantic 50 amp service required monstrosities that people choose to “camp“ in lol
Charging that Lightning from 22% to 100% would have used (131 kWh * 78%) / 90% efficiency = 113.5 kWh. At the 23 cents/kWh it costs in Alaska, that's $26 worth of juice. A 15,000 BTU A/C unit uses 1.5 kWh of electricity per hour. Running two of them non-stop for 24 hours will use 72 kWh.
3:30 Volts times amps does not equal the current. Current is the amps. Volts times amps actual equals the total power which is watts.
Came here to say this.
I would keep a multi meter with the truck to check any of these connections prior to use. Only takes a few seconds and could save some frustration
Your electric vehicle definitely uses more power than an RV AC, what a ridiculous thing to imply it’s the same thing
There is a special EV adapter for the TT-30. The RV one puts the same phase across the power pins and so the adapter sees 0V. The EV one puts 120V across the pins and it works at least on my Tesla.
It is very clear that we are 15 to 20 years away from a E truck that actually makes sense. This 150 is a costly joke.
This convinced me to stay with IC. These guys are doing there best to put lipstick on a pig.
We camp a lot at state park campgrounds, especially in Oregon. I'm not against EV and we've had one - but my issue is down the road I feel this will cause two issues.
1: site rates will increase due to extra energy consumption.
2: folks will start booking sites just to charge due to their potentially lower cost and may not use the site for their designed use. (We see that already so much in Oregon.. Coastal campgrounds full but physically only 70% using their site because reservations need be made 6 months in advance and of course weather or life events change)
One key piece of info, probably covered below in comments is you should never draw more than 80% of the amperage of a circuit breaker. So in the case of the 120v on the 20 amp you would multiply by 16amps * 120 volts = 1.9 kW (not 2.4kW). In the case of TT30 24 amps off a 30amp breaker * 120 volts = 2.9kW and if you could max out on the 14-50 the max would be 40amps (80% of 50) * 240 v = 9.6 kW. In the case of a dongle like a TT30 you will need to dial the amps down manually to 24amps. Otherwise great video. The argument against EVs in RV parks is the continuous draw of power and the age and condition of the wiring. Some are fine with it some are not.
Also keep in mind that the EVSE unit Ford provided doesn't know that you are at a 20 amp outlet. The specific plug on that dongle is valid for 15 AMP outlets so it probably de-rates down to 12 amps or less. If the dongle had the 20 amp "cross + vertical" blade configuration, it might run at 16 amps. From the video, it sounded like the truck was estimating just over a kilowatt hour per hour delivered after some conversion losses.
@@tomkirchman5808 Correct. The box assumes the typical household draw of 12 amps max. My Bolt actually defaults in the charging area of the infotainment to 8 amps to assume the plug is being shared by other loads, and to reduce stress on older wiring. You can override this to 12 amps, and it'll give you a warning about this very thing.
Food for thought. I live in Phoenix area. Just got solar recently with battery backup. I can see house power usage (roughly 1200sf). House AC set at 78 (lower if i do more physical work), the most used in a day is 55kwh and it is July with 100+ degree days and 90 degree mornings. You are trying to charge 80% which is roughly 105kw. Another consideration is only a few high users versus many high users which can tax the overall system.
Flat rate fees for anything are almost never fair on an individual basis, someone gains, someone loses.
The guy with the small RV/trailer is essentially subsidizing the guy with a slightly larger RV in the same size/priced spot.
The family which doesn't use the pool at the campground is subsidizing the family who do.
People like to cherry pick and moan about the things they feel they are subsidizing, while staying quiet about what they receive that is subsidized by others.
Campgrounds may need to rethink flat rate pricing over time if many people rock up with the likes of an F150 Lightning, or a Rivian or any other large battery vehicle.
At 20c per kWh, putting 100kWh into a battery is going to consume about 120kWh and that's about $24. So they only make $10 a night on a $35 spot.
Maybe EV's have to take a class C spot at $50 per night (I don't know if that's a thing but I'd imagine even today the guy with a small trailer should not be payiung as much as those guys becuase he doesn't have 3 AC units and a massive fridge/freezer and big screen TV etc etc).
Or maybe there is a $10 per night EV surcharge?
In any case, camp ground will adapt, they'll have to.
@@larrysmith6797 You're right, but I would argue that saying no is also adapting. Either way they need to make it clear.
@@larrysmith6797 And what do you think it costs in electricity to run those big RV's for 24 hours with 3 A/C units, a large refrigerator and so on? It's not free. The Ev surcharge should be the difference between running one of those and charging a typical EV which is probably about $10. And a 100kWh battery in an EV is a rare thing, to charge something like a Chevy Bolt would take half as much, and in all cases this is assuming you are charging from 0% to 100% which any EV owner will tell you they probably never have.
There are some Campgrounds here in San Diego that charge $100/night.
$35 a night is super cheap for site with 50amp electric and sewer. Tent sites are normal 35. And large rv sites are double
@@guyod1 Did they say it has sewer? If so, I missed it. But that would be very cheap. Not bad for w+e either.
Those 3 prong outlets in RV parks are not 240v outlets. They are RV specific 120v outlets, not household dryer outlets at 240v.
The one thing about campgrounds is they don't necessarily have the best power and you should have a RV surge protector for either 30 or 50 amp depending on what you are using.
can you imagin being at fee bag camp ground changing ford lighting hell no
I tried to look it up, and supposedly and "average" for RV is 20kWh a day. BUT, it can vary very wildly. A large luxury 5th wheel will use as much as house. They have washers and dryers, tvs, multiple air conditioners or heaters, multiple fans,...and they will draw right around 50 amps or so. I was actually reading that some of them have to be selective in what they use or they will pop breakers. So, I wouldn't worry about charging up.
It’s quite rare for a 50 amp RV to use anywhere near 50 amps, or even 40 amps. And the load isn’t continuous like an EVSE does.
Note a 50 amp RV outlet is actually 70 amps more than a 30 amp RV outlet.
Yes, but consider that in a campground with, say, 100 spots, only a few of those would be taken up by the monster 5ers. Most campers will be 30A and some will only use the 20A plugs. IF you switch those to all EVs charging, that's where the problems arise. Also, what do you do when you have both an EV truck AND a big 5er at the same site?
@@emanuelneiconi it depends on where you are camping. Most of the campgrounds I frequent they are filled with Class A's and 5th Wheels.
As for what do you do when you have a 5th Wheel and an EV, easy, you charge the EV from the 5th Wheel and you meter the power going to the EV from what's left over from the 5er.
@@ericroe Ah yes good point. I had state parks on the brain because of this video. There’s still a lot to be done and thought about when it comes to EVs especially trucks and towing.
Something I haven't seen mentioned here yet: A lot of campgrounds have older or inadequate electrical infrastructure, and if there's too much collective current draw across the campground it can cause brownouts. I think this plays some part in the apprehension of the other campers, and campground staff.
Absolutely right. My class A motorhome (in the summertime) does not pull the continuous load an EV does. Electrical service at many campgrounds is marginal at best.
Charging one of these is like running 4 decent size home AC units. That's a lot of juice. The grid can't handle basic stuff in cali. Imagine 4 times that amount
But EV charger only draws 32 Amps, where the 50 Amp RV would draw slot more. It's about the same as a 30 Amp RV, maybe less as the charge rate is reduced above 80%.
@@Papa-bh6zq why would an rv draw more? If you aren't running an AC. It's rarely gonna draw more than 20 amps new tvs and lights use very little power and cooking is generally gas... and even with a small AC they only draw like 8amps at 240..my 8400 btu only draws 12 at 120 so it be 6 at 240... and a 4000btu be like 3.
@@Papa-bh6zq The difference is that when you charge an EV, you are making a CONSTANT draw on the electrical system of the campground. In an RV (or your house, for that matter), not every appliance is running at full capacity at all times. You don’t run all of your lights constantly, your AC cycles on and of, your refrigerator cycles on and off, etc…. A campground full of EV’s charging would represent a WILDLY different demand scenario than a campground full of RV’s operating in typical fashion.
In campgrounds, you should always use a surge protector. Campground electrical infrastructures are not always as reliable as residential. It’s the campground owners that will not be real happy with you charging your EV. I was in a campground earlier this year where every electrical pedestal had a sign that said there was a $100.00 fine for charging EV’s.
Wow...where was this campground charging fines for EVs. Yikes!
Only the govt can fine 🤩
I guess, if push comes to shove, the $100 fine is still cheaper than needing to call for a tow truck to get home.
I work as a Park Technician for government campgrounds...and we definitely don't care if people charge their EVs as long as they pay for the site (which we would catch them at worst after a few hours because we constantly check between us and the hosts). IWe are equipped to handle the load. There are master "main" breakers at each "loop" which would trip if everyone was charging EVs at the same time. For example, one campground loop we have can handle up to 72k kw. There are about 20 sites in that loop which means that at any one time every site could draw about 3600 kw if averaged out. The most realistic scenarios I could see we trip the main breaker because of overload (not because of a short) would be if everyone was in that site during the day with their dual air conditioners running at the same time. It's unlikely though as an average A/C is about 1500w. In that particular example loop we have a nema 14-50 connection at each site whereas in other loops "we are equipped" because we only have the 30amp@120v connections along with the master "main" breaker. Not realistic to think every site would be drawing max load, at least not for maybe a decade from now when there are more EVs on the roads. Since most campers don't actually use very much electricity at all, and EVs are proportionally less frequent of a camper, we are not concerned about people charging their EVs
If all of the campground sites happened to be full of EVs at the same time charging the maximum draw the main breakers would just trip and we wouldn't care, we would just reset it and if it kept tripping we would wait until people figured it out. We wouldn't care because if you don't expect there to be a power outage at a campground after you happen upon one that you see has nothing but EVs then we don't want you at our campgrounds anyway. We would be happy to direct you to the nearest EV charging station. The campgrounds are for leisure and enjoyment. So far in the last 9 years of working in this industry I've only seen at most three EVs in the same loop charging, while they tent camped.
@3:30
Tommy, I think you meant voltage x amps (current) = Power (Watts).
Tommy didn't know any better
Runs an EV channel...knows nothing.
interestingly, one campground I visited had TWO 30amp 120v outlet at each pedestal, along with the normal 20amp outlet, and NO 50amp. I was, though, able to use my DUAL 30amp 120v to 50amp 240v 'Y' adapter to create 240v power and charge the truck during the overnight stay - by the way, I also provided power to the camper FROM the truck's ProPower 30amp outlet... nice.
This type of campground outlet option is NOT common, but it certainly made for faster charging with the adapter.
Max charge current should ALWAYS be set at a maximum 80% of the plug's rated capacity.
Yep, 50 Amp plug x 80% = 40 Amps. Charger tops out at 32... not too bad. I haven't actually been able to find any 40 Amp mobile chargers. Manufacturers are probably playing it extra safe when it comes to a device that any dummy can fumble around with.
FYI: The ford charge station pro, (wall mounted/hard wired) unit available for this truck can charge at 80 Amps, and requires a 100 Amp breaker.
(heh, I would need a service panel upgrade!)
@@MCP647 Yeah. I had to upgrade my service panel. My house was a 100 amp service, and between adding two AC units and two 40amp EV charging circuits (we have two EVs), I didn't have enough room on the mains. I've been on the worst case scenario of setting up a property to support EVs twice now. Spendy but worth it.
Notice that the 30 amp (center breaker) is physically a single breaker as compared to the adjacent 20 amp circuit breaker (farthest right) that support the conventional looking wall style plug. It’s quite common for many mid size RVs to only be wired for 120 volts but may need a bit more amperage than a typical 15-20 amp wall plug can provide. So the 30 amp 120 volt circuit is provided for those RV applications. Whereas the 50 amp circuit breaker application is typically needed for larger RVs as positioned (farthest left) in this video. If you look closely it is actually two breakers fitted side by side. This tandem breaker configuration supports the NEMA 50 plug which ultimately is 240 volts as it connects upstream to two separate 120 volt legs of a 240 volt single phase electric panel bus bar. ie 120 volt leg + 120 volt leg = 240 volts.
How large of a generator would you need to charge the truck to 100% and how much fuel would it use?
Not rocket science. The 98kwh f150 has a 2.78gallon equivalent capacity. You're literally getting 230mi of range from 2.78 gallons . That's about $14.70 worth of electricity at 15c a kwh
That is a thought.
But it is highly inneficient.
There are losses every time you convert an energy state.
ICE converts gas into mechanical energy with combustion.
Generator converts gas into electricity by combistion, then transformer to correct voltage, to charger, to storage, then from storage to motor, motor to mechanical force. Losses at every stage.
Would be better just to rent an ICE vehicle for a trip requiring a generator.
you should check out the News people in the southern states . there electric bill has gone up to 75 percent because of the lack of natural gas. know you expect them to spend 80000 grand for a electric truck or car then the extra cost of charging that vehicle really come on wake up people.
Electricity is so cheap vs gas, I started saving $100/month on fuel cost even with a vehicle payment on a Tesla M3. $6 for 400km
Well Florida Power & Light offer $31 unlimited charging flat rate off peak 9 PM to 12PM next day AND they provide the level 2 charger. It costs me a whopping $372 a year to charge my Tesla at my home. Apparently FP&L has no issues with capacity or getting the natural gas needed.
You need a special adapter for electric vehicles to charge on the 30 amp 120, an RV dog bone won't work for that
I don’t know but I have a funny idea that electric rates are gonna skyrocket in the near future lol
I have a feeling gas prices will skyrocket yesterday
@@davonriver25 both are going to skyrocket…..
Why? Because mass adoption of EVs? Because (Renewable) energy has never been cheaper?
It’s the future and they both high…
A solution is to add solar panels to your home. That way you never have to charge up.
Your missing a main point, EV charging draws the max current all the time and RV's draw the current required at that time.
A 50 amp RV doesn't draw that much very often. I have been at older campgrounds the electric system can't even supply 30 amps per site.
I suggest that you take the ferry. As others have mentioned in the comments, most RV hookups are 30 amp 110v, and not a 220v circuit. The 50 amp plug-ins will be pretty scarce in any campground over 15 years old. I think your EV adventure is about five years early. But good luck with it, just the same.
When you used the adapter plug it’s energizing both L1 and L2 with the same 120v leg while the ford power brick is trying to use it at 240v. The voltage from L1 to L1 is going to be 0 (and why it doesn’t turn on).
TLDR: There are two kinds of adapters and you bought the wrong one.
Regarding your adapter that didn’t work: The 3 prong outlet is called a TT-30 and it has one hot wire (120vac), one neutral wire (at ground voltage, but designed to carry current), and one ground wire. The four prong outlet (nema 14-50) has two hot wires (each 120vac from ground and 240vac from each other), a neutral, and a ground. When converting from 3 to 4 wires, one prong on the 14-50 will be left unconnected. The converter may connect neutral to neutral, leaving one of the hots unconnected. This is probably the most common type of converter and will not work for the type of charger you have. A converter intended for use with an EV will not connect the neutral wire on the 14-50 side to anything and will instead connect the neutral from the TT-30 as one of the two hot wires on the 14-50 side. This leaves you with a nema 14-50 outlet that only has 120vac between the two hots, a functional ground, and no neutral. It’s also only capable of handling 30amps, even though it’s a 50amp outlet. This will work for many car chargers, although if they’re picky, they might reject the 120vac when 240vac was expected. They might also reject ground appearing to be at the same voltage as one of the hots. If this does work for you, be sure to lower your charge current to 30amps or less. And as others have pointed out, you should not try to draw more than 80% of the rated current for more than a few minutes, so in this case you would need to adjust the charge current to 24 amps. This means you’d be getting just under 3kw.
Edit: Another comment pointed out that the adapter in the video probably connects the 120v hot to each of the hots on the 14-50, resulting in 0v difference. This makes more sense. Still, same end result.
Some vehicles at least will limit to 12amps on any 120V source.
Yeah I think what they want is the "Parkworld 885378 EV Adapter Cord NEMA TT-30P to 14-50R (ONLY for EV or Tesla use, NOT for RV )", I just bought one but haven't tried it out yet.
Tommy, you're not interpreting breakers correctly. A 15 amp breaker will trip at 15 amps. Continuous duty on a circuit is 80% of the breaker's rating. The 32 amp rating of the trucks charger at 240 volts is presuming it will be plugged into a 40 amp breaker. Consequently a L2 charger rated at 40 amps will be presuming being plugged into a 50 amp breaker. You'll find that one rated at 40 amps plugged into a 40 amp rated circuit will in fact trip it. The 80% continuous duty is to eliminate overheating the wiring and causing a fire, while giving you enough room to energize transformers or inductive loads within a circuit.
Ac and electric heat are the two biggest consumers.
But many campgrounds electric systems are terrible. So what you are suggesting is a bad idea
3:12 - You don’t need to drop the door that covers the DC fast charging pins to plug in a J-1772.
3:34 - You can/should only use 80% of a circuit rated amperage. The Ford Mobile Power Cord has a NEMA 5-15 plug, which is a 15 Amp plug, not 20. The receptacle is also 15 amps (20 amps has a T-shaped prong). So 80% of 15 amps is 12 amps X 120V = 1.44 kW. Ford says it will take 95 hours to go from 0% to 100% using the NEMA 5-15 connector, which if you assume the 131kW battery pack would be 1.38 kW.
7:09 - The TT-30 is one leg of 120V. The charger is expecting to see two legs of 120V at 50 amps each since you are using the NEMA 14-50 plug. You will need to find a dongle that goes from the Ford charger to a TT-30 plug (there is one for the Tesla mobile charger). The dongle should also tell the charger to not pull 50 amps from a 30 amp circuit, which would be dangerous if you didn’t drop it manually.
9:45 - Ford specs says 7.36kW. This means that you would need to pull 240V at 30.6 amps. In an RV campground you will be lucky to get 200V, so you need to lower your expectations, and increase your charging time.
8:44 - It would take 18 hours to go from 0% to 100% at 7.36kW assuming the 131kW pack. This is unrealistic as you would never go from 0% to 100%, but it helps to compare to 120V 15Amps.
9:53 - You are limited by electrical code laws and regulations. You can get mobile chargers that draw 40 amps instead of 32, but I would not recommend this as you are far more likely to pop a breaker while you are sleeping, which would not be fun the next morning. RV campgrounds are not made for this amount of power draw, so you are already playing with fire.
10:25 - Note that your neighbor has a proper 20 Amp NEMA 5-20 receptacle. However, the Ford charger only has a NEMA 5-15 plug. The Tesla mobile charger does offer both 5-15 and 5-20 dongles, but the difference is insignificant.
12:16 - If every spot had an EV charging the RV campground power infrastructure would melt.
12:56 - A car pulling 7,360 watts continuously for 12 hours is very different than RV power needs.
15:28 - keep that door closed when not fast charging.
Some of the larger RV will be using almost as much power as you, so I don’t see the issue currently. Long term, perhaps power consumption rates may need to be looked at, or just change the metering structure to better calculate usage, and have separate site charges vs power charges. If they want to complain about EV’s charging there, it may come back to hurt them in the pocket book.
@@larrysmith6797 already seen several channels that have and will on a regular basis
@@larrysmith6797 I do
Many camp sites in Florida charge for electricity. So if you charge your truck, you pay for it. Other campsites include the electric in the site cost - there I can see the argument. But not when pay electric separate. Further, you charge the truck only once during a camping trip. While when you run 3 A/C units on a camper they are running constant - for days. Should the tent camper complain about the guy running A/C unit? You can solve the discussion by charging for electric, pretty easy.
EV charging will drive up cost of sites. No one is going to give away electricity
Level 1 is 12A at 120V = 1.44 kW. Maximum charging is always derated from the breaker rating by 0.8. The standard 120V plug is a 5-15P, rated at 15A. It has to make the assumption that it is a 15A circuit, which when derated by 0.8 gives 12A. So far as I know, all EVs charge at 12A when they detect that they are charging from 120V. When they are charging from 240V, there's a signal on one of the J1772 pins which tells the car the maximum current it can draw. When you use the 14-50P, which is rated at 50A/240V, after 0.8 derating it can draw up to 40A. 40A * 240V = 9.6 kW, although this may be limited to a lower value by the charging cable or the vehicle's on-board charger. The largest Level 2 I've heard of is hardwired to a 100A breaker, which must be derated to 80A. 80A * 240V = 19.2 kW. This is a really big load, considering a typical house these days has 200A service. One other thing about the campground: it may have 3-phase service, which often supplies 208V instead of 240V, so the maximum for 14-50P would be 40A * 208V = 8.32 kW.
The reason your TT30 adapter didn't work is because it connected both hot wires together, so there was 0V difference, instead of the 240V the 14-50 was expecting. Had you used a TT30 to 5-15 adapter, it would have detected Level 1 and charged at 12A / 1.44 kW.
So 14 hours on 240v level charging similar to what most homes can provide to go from 25% to 100%. I can’t remember the range you guys were getting with 100% - 200 miles? So drive 3-4 hours and charge for 14? In 20min you gained 2mi of range. Exciting stuff.
The range of the Ford Lightning with the standard battery is 230 miles. With the extended battery, it's 300 miles between charges.
That's why high speed chargers are considered essential for conventional road trips. These level 2 type chargers are called destination chargers for a reason. This video was made because they took an unconventional adventure to show that it could be done, not that it's your standard trip.
@@zzanatos2001 But towing sees as low as 100, and steep grades heading to campsites would drop range as well.
The challenge is to be able to plug in your electric vehicle and at the same time keep your camper fully charged. We have thought about buying a Rivion, but how can we do both when on a trip? Plus, apparently electric trucks only get about 50% in distance when towing a load such as a camper. At this point I don't think technology has reached a point where it makes practical sense to tow something such an Airstream behind you for an extended trip.
If you want to get an idea of much a typical 50-amp RV with 2 ACs consumes in electricity, you can use our current situation as an example. We have consumed 565.6 KWH in 24 days, which translates into 23.56 KWH per day. Both AC units run at least 12 hours per day, we have the fridge running on electric, 2 TVs and a laptop are going all day long. I hope this info helps for comparison purposes. Regarding campers not liking EVs using campgrounds for charging, is not for using the electricity, it's for using the few available spaces for non-camping purposes.
The EV would use far more than 24 kWh per day, recharging from 20% or less capacity to 80% or more capacity.
It will help me sleep at night knowing somewhere an RVer is grumbling about an EV "taking up a spot".
All those damn RVs in the truck stops. I hope this video drastically increases the popularity of this activity.
That’s not even camping anymore. TVs laptops a/c
That's glamping, not camping, which is what I would be doing in my EV anyway. Plus, EVs looking for a quick charge will be out of the way sooner than an RV. Blame campsites that don't have an hourly fee structure, not the EV owner.
My family is a group of avid campers. If you book a site and camp I don't care how you use the power. What I do not want to see is people booking a site just to charge a vehicle. I believe this takes away from people that want the camping experience. If the campground has open sites then I don't have an issue with people charging for a few hours and leaving as long as they pay some type of fee. I would be frustrated to find out that I couldn't reserve a spot because they were all booked up by people charging up. I think campgrounds will need to evolve and establish charging sites and or require customers actually stay overnight to book a spot in advance.
Using that adapter for 125/30A is because you have NEMA 14-50 plugged in and vehicle is recognizing you don’t have 240V. Each adapter from ford and other manufacturers send info to charger of what energy to draw
FYI. That 120v outlet is actually rated max of 15A. The 20A outlets have a T-shape slot on one side. 👌
At 5:25, the breaker is 20 amps. But yes, the installed outlet should be a heavy duty outlet with the t slot.
Energy Meters at each spot. High Energy Chargers in certain spots. High Energy Parking Spots for Day use areas. Make it easy for camp site owners to get on board and offer a new kinda service while making it fair for everyone!
Some RV parks actually do this already. Typically it's for long term rentals though.
Set up a little snack and coffee shop and voila! Makin money! :)
My family and I camp, and I wouldn’t care if an EV is charging or not, as long as:
1. I and the other campers had the power we needed.
2. The EV user is not charged an obscene amount to charge (they only pay for what they use).
3. The campground owner doesn’t get screwed, either.
Where does fair play into it? The campground is a business. They should allow ev charging with a significant upcharge of 30-50 dollars a night to play for the infrastructure improvements required to support them
People have already commented on the TT-30 adapter wiring... To give some more context, this thing you're calling a "charger" isn't actually a charger. It's called an EVSE and is really just a smart switch. The actual charger - the thing that converts the AC to DC and controls the rate at which the energy is delivered to the battery is an integral component of the truck. In the J1772 standard, there are only two wires on which to deliver power to the onboard charger, so a 120V connector will connect the hot to one of them and the neutral to the other. For level 2 charging (ie. 240V), then those two wires will be connected to the two hots. A standard NEMA TT-30 is a 120V connector with a neutral, hot and ground pin. Your NEMA 14-50 is a 240V connector with two hots, a neutral and a ground. A standard TT-30 to NEMA 14-50 adapter will connect the neutral and ground as expected and I'm assuming the hot on the TT-30 to one or both of the hots on the NEMA 14-50. Either way, this is not going to provide any power to your charger since you will either have one of your hots floating or both hots at the same potential (ie. zero volts between them). I have my own TT-30 to NEMA 14 adapter that I built for my EVSE which connects the TT-30 neutral to one of the NEMA-14 hots and so you get the 120V between the two hots on the NEMA 14 and thus get power to your onboard charger.
The other thing I'm wondering is whether you could end up overloading the circuit using this kind of adapter. One of the things that an EVSE does is signal to the vehicle's on-board charger just how much current it's allowed to draw. This is known as the control pilot signal. Your Ford supplied EVSE (that's the black box with the blue light and Ford logo on it) is rated for up to 32A, but when it's connected to a standard 120V 15A receptacle - actually a NEMA 5-15 receptacle - it would need to tell the vehicle to only draw 12A, whereas when connected to the NEMA 14-50 receptacle, it could tell the vehicle that it can draw the full 32A that that EVSE is rated for. I don't see any kind of buttons or other user interface on the EVSE, so I'm assuming that there's actually some hardware like resistors or shunts built into the power cable that tell the EVSE what it's connected to. With that in mind, it's possible that when you're using the NEMA 14-50 power cable on the EVSE, it's going to signal 32A maximum current to the vehicle and will have no idea that you've actually connected it to a TT-30 receptacle rated at only 30A via a separate adapter cable. As a result, you may end up tripping the breaker when you try this even if you do have a properly constructed cable. It's really going to come down to what assumptions Ford made when they designed there EVSE. It's possible that they ay detect the lower voltage and do something different and everything works fine, but I wouldn't be surprised if the control pilot signal is determined on which power cable you've connected to the unit and nothing else. In theory, level 1 (ie. 120V) charging above 16A is outside of the standard but I have tested on my Kona Electric and it will happily charge at 120V 24A if given an appropriate control pilot signal. I expect many other vehicles will do the same. For my EVSE, it has a user interface that allows me to manually set the current limit, so if I ever use that TT-30 adapter cable I made, I can limit the current to 24A to ensure that I don't trip the breaker.
Only issue would be if you were actually camping with a trailer you would have to balance between charging and using ac and such in the camper
No, you wouldn't as the camper could be plugged into the truck. That way all the juice goes into charging, and it provides simple math as well as provides the protection for the campground's electric grid. Yes, the camper will be a draw, but it should be safer. Other electric vehicles would have the problem you are stating. That truck will not.
Ya. I would plug the truck into the 50 amp campsite outlet and then run the camper off the 30 amp outlet in the bed of the truck. It will take longer to charge the truck, but it's an option.
@@ronaldking1054 Actually a terrible idea and a waste of electricity. You'd be converting voltage from the power pedestal into the EV battery, then inverting it back out the trucks outlets. There is a noticeable loss each time you convert/invert electricity.
@@CallsignVega Yes, there would be a loss, but there would be no way to calculate how much amperage you would draw, and as such, any other option leaves electricity on the table, which should be more significant than the loss of the conversion from dc to ac.
@@ronaldking1054 no way that truck can put out 50 amps like the plug does, maybe lites and power tools no way a trailer
Remember...24 hours at 1000 w an hour is only $3.60 worth of electricity at 15c a kwh. So a gallon of gas basically. So if it can do it in 4 days how much would gas cost? $100?
I do wish all EV manufacturers would supply a EVSE like the Lightning. Having a combo Level 1/2 evse will cover any type of AC charging. NEMA 14-50 outlets are very common at RV parks.
I bought the Ford unit for my EQS580. Just wish it could do 9.5amps as I do with my home chargepoint flex.
I think they do. Who does not provide both level 1 and 2?
@@jgreenle1 My Honda Clarity only came with a Level 1 evse that works on 120v. The VW ID.4 is another one.
@@jgreenle1 In fact Mercedes and others supply you with NONE. Mercedes will sell you a level one "emergency" one... For your home they recommend you purchase a Chargepoint home flex.... My guess is "supply" issues are to blame. Ford has done spectacularly well in supplying their EVSE with a dual one. Even Tesla is now selling rather than providing their home chargers.
Volvo C40 & the Xc40 are supplied with changeable level 1 or Level 2 EVSE its great when they are included.
Thanks for making this video, more attention needs to be paid to this EV charging issue (in my opinion). I was an RVer before I was an EVer and now I am both. I got both TT-30 and 14-50 adapters for my Tesla Model 3’s mobile charger because I was exited about the roadtrip possibilities. The idea was that you could pay for a campsite, sleep in the climate controlled Tesla overnight (or attach a tent) while it charges, and eliminate the cost of gas on a road trip. Haven’t done that yet, but it’s a goal, and I love that you plan to take the Lightning to Alaska. I think the problem you experienced with your TT-30 adapter is that the Ford mobile charger did not like it. If it’s not specifically wired for EV charging it won’t work. I agree with the idea that if you pay for a campsite with electric, they shouldn’t have any comments about how you use it. Plenty of multi-AC RVs using just as much power. And as you say it’s really 32 amps all night, it’s not going to break anybody. Maybe your fellow campers complaining need some education. I will be watching if you head to AK!
The middle plug did not work because that is still 120volts but 30amps and the charger was looking for 240 volts when using the other dongle
You can dramatically reduce your charging needs by driving a more energy efficient vehicle. The Hyundai IONIQ 6 has a 140 MPGe compared to 78 MPGe for the Lightning Extended Range.
I would be more concerned of the 3 hours driving (maybe) and the 14 hours of setting while it charges so I can drive another 3 hours. And even that depends on if the campground has 240 volts available. Many or possibly most campground only have 30 amp, 110 volts available, especially in the northwest where the temp doesn't stay in the 90's - 100's like it does in the south. That's going to make for a long, long, long, trip to Alaska.
wait, i assumed that if the campsite has 30 amp that I am guarantied to get 240v? I'm planning a Winnipeg to Vancouver road trip with a 60 kWh Bolt. And out of the 5 sites I contacted so far I got 1 stating that "their grid is not designed for ev charging"
@@Liefpj They sometimes have 120v 30amp plugs. Using plug step downs will not help you though.
Buy a different EVSE that has the correct adapters or can manually change the amps so you don’t blow the breakers.
You guys are making me miss trailer camping. I went through these kinds of calculations way back in 2013 with my 70kwh leaf. It didn't have enough range to make it to the local campsite and back, so I was looking at it for range extension at the campsite. Never did it of course.
I'm betting in the near future campsites will either ban electric charging, or put an extra fee for those who are using their sites for charging. I'm not certain if every campsite can supply enough power to run both the 50 and 30 AMP outlets simultaneously. Many campsites are known for having flakey electrical systems, which is why it's recommended that you get a surge protector/power filter for when you plugin.
I bought one for my RV when I had it and travelled across the continent over 6 months and only found one campground in Northern Ontario where the electricity was so bad (undervoltage, 105V) that it cut out. Could have just been lucky. I was still glad to have it, peace of mind.
Level 2 will still take overnight or 8 hours to charge. It may be an option if you are camping out there too. Level 1 just won't work. It will take a week to charge your battery
Why wouldn’t other campers like it? How’s it any different than plugging in their big trailers?
Tribal thinking. EV = bad. So much for personal freedom.
People think EVs “take” too much power and that it is some kind of thievery to charge from a “normal” outlet, even a 50-amp connection meant to power an entire mobile “house”. They think charging an EV goes above and beyond the energy covered by the usual campground fees. Exactly like the apartment dwellers who keep unplugging and even cutting EV charging cables.
One RV A/C unit needs about 10 kwh per day, Even when you run 3 of those - you end up with 30kwh per day. That's what campgrounds calculate into the site cost. When you charge your truck you pull 100kwh per day. + the 30kwh for you trailer. So the campground either need to up the charge for the site or charge for electric cost separate (which is already happening) which would be probably the fair model. Get billed for what you use instead of a blanket site cost.
@@sebastiant5695 If what you were saying were true, then they wouldn't have a 50-amp breaker. The startup costs for the circuit are not that high for camping. They have already priced in the amount of power they think someone will draw, and that truck would be in it just as the presenter stated. You, who are not in the contract, are the only one complaining about the contract that the campground provided to someone else. What is worse is that you did not complain that the campground who gave you the same contract was not overproviding services and as such, the campground would be overcharging you.
Most RVs don’t use anywhere near the full rated amperage most of the time. The voltage at most campgrounds will sag quite a bit if lots of people run their air conditioners, which are only about 1-2kw each. If you plug in your EV and draw 6 to 8 kw, that’s like addling 4-8 more AC units. The park voltage will sag more, and you might even cause a sub panel breaker to pop.
Never… What is this BS about charging for free? I had a friend come by a few weeks ago and he immediately asked where he could plug in? WTH is this all about…. It’s not free, it’s never free?
One major problem with your overnight charging scenario. The 50 amp outlet you use to charge your EV is the same outlet that the RV needs to use for power. There is only one 50 AMP outlet per campsite. Nobody is going to want to give up running their air conditioners on a hot humid night in order to charge the EV.
Tommy, the 120v plug looks like a 15 amp circuit, which will only deliver 80% of 15a, or 12 amps, so you are getting 120v * 12 amp = 1.4 kwh. Most 120v chargers only accept 12 amps, so you don’t constantly trip breakers. Pretty slow charging. As someone already mentioned, you can’t adapt from the 30 amp 120v single phase to the 240v 50amp two phase connection. Nothing wrong with the outlet or the dongle…return the dongle back. Won’t work. The rated 50 amp plug will only furnish you 40 amps on a continuing basis, before the breaker overheat and trips. So the max 32 amps the charger handles is pretty close to the max of 40a continuous.
I have a Jeep 4xe hybrid, 17.5 kw battery, which I pull behind our motorhome. I always charge it with the 120v charger overnight when plugged into a campsite pedestal/. About 14 hours in my case. I also charge from my motorhome, when boondocking. Still at 120v.
One last thing, most pedestals that have. 50a, 30 amp and 15 amp outlets are run through the 50amp circuit as the main breaker, so the max amps you can continuously draw from all three outlets of the pedestal is 100 amps. (50 * 2)..
I'm sure you have covered this but it seems like a good time to remember the charger is in the vehicle. The cords and the device that ford gives you to connect to a power source does nothing to control the power going into the batteries. It's only purpose is to determine the acceptability of the offered power source. i.e. voltage in the correct amplitude and phase angle.
Sounds unnecessarily complicated. Get a damn hybrid.
The L1/L2 EVSE also tells the charger in the vehicle, "I can provide xx amps," and the onboard charger will comply by not drawing more than that.
My RV has the 50 amp connector and an RV is capable of pulling 100 amps. An RV doesn't use 240 volts, it uses 2 legs of 120 volts, 50 amps each. Very few RV's use a 240 connection unless it's for a dryer. This is why A campground shouldn't care if your pulling 30 amps. I pull 30 amps with just 2 AC units running, not counting the toaster, microwave, electric stove cooktop, hairdryer, 4 tv's, convection oven motorhomes use a lot of power. Some RV's have 3 AC units
At 3:25 you’re calculating power not current. Volts multiplied by the current (amperage) equals power (wattage). Not that important unless you’re putting together an electrical system in which case it’s crucial.
As an electrical engineer, that snippet made me cringe
@@WayneBruce26 haha glad I’m not the only one that raised an eyebrow. It’s a great video and didn’t want to nit pick but figure it’s worth pointing out incase an amateur like myself doesn’t get confused and burn their house down.
I don't understand why other campers would be upset by this. The campgrounds can rent them out for the day, 12 hours at a time, charging doesn't draw enough to take down the campsite if the chargers are limited to 35 amps and the campsite has 50 amp circuits available for everyone. Only problem is charging an EV takes hours at that rating, but if you have a camper with AC and using other electric stuff, those don't have a constant load, but that changing load might be more hurtful. And of course as EVs get more advanced if you have a rig like yours with a camper in the bed, so you plan on staying overnight, why not be able to set the truck for a full charge for when you want to depart and it will make sure it is ready about 30-45 minutes early (if it is reasonable) at a lower load for the entire charge, this protecting the campsite and the battery more.
Good luck finding an available campsite if you are traveling over a weekend. Also, most campgrounds are only open from April thru October. Also, If you are using you EV truck to tow a camper you would have to decide which one you are going to power from the campsite power pedestal since there is only one 50amp outlet. You may be able to get away with only renting a site for $35 per night if it's a state or federal campground...that cost is more like $80 per night at a private campground. Pretty sure I'm keeping my gasoline powered 5.7L Hemi.
Been traveling the country in my Rivian and haven't paid a dime in charging 👌
The average person could not afford buying all these gadgets let alone the ev vehicle . Nothing but a pipe dream
Tommy - no need to flip the cover down when charging Level 2, like you did at 3:10 in the video. I know the Ford Pro (80 amp) connector includes the lower two, but that is to enable bi-directional energy flow. When using the portable charger, thats not an issue, so save yourself an extra step and the risk of accidentally breaking the cover when you close the charge door!
LOL I think he did that without realizing it.
For the TT-30, my guess is that the reason it didn't work is because you were going from a 3-prong plug to a 40 prong plug. The Ford mobile connector is most likely looking for a ground. If it is similar to the Tesla UMC, it wants to see the protective earth ground electrically tied to the neutral terminal of the split phase connection. Though I can't safely recommend it, one work around is to externally wire the neutral on the NEMA 14-50 to the Ground on the NEMA 14-50. This will trick the EVSE into thinking you are properly grounded.
How anybody thinks this clown circus is anywhere near ready is beyond me.
I don’t want any part of EV’s yet.
There is also the fact that the EV would be taking a spot that could be used for an RV. it's already difficult as it is to find available sites nowadays.
This is why I'm glad my portable charger is programmable for lower amperages. I know the capabilities of my own outlets at home, but I can set the amperage to pessimistic amounts away from home - 12A for 120V, 24-32A for 240V.
Also, you shouldn't expect to charge to the full 80% at the campsite, but enough to get to the next charger after you leave.
12:20 The price of energy is a broad concern with EV adoption, but the more specific concern for campgrounds is availability. There might be say 100 sites with 50A breakers at each, but a lot of campgrounds don't have utility service to power 100 sites at 80% duty cycle all day long. Most 30A or 50A capable RVs are not drawing anywhere near 80% for hours on end. Fill that campground with EVs and RVs on every site and absolutely you might, as you state, take down the whole place. It is no different than most homes. Go to your breaker box and add up the amp rating of all breakers combined, multiply by .8 and you are most likely going to have a number far in excess of your 200A home service. Also, you kept saying that the campers seemed upset. Are you drawing conclusions or did they say something specific to you? Seems more like you're generalizing about them after being on site for all of what, 60 minutes?
Not sure if the truck has this option but my car can limit charging. If I were to go to a campground I would be able to fill up at 10 amps overnight. The problem is I can only see these trucks getting bigger and bigger batteries, and higher charging rates. If the local infrastructure is capable, the solution might be installing EV chargers near the incoming power.
@@randomvideosn0where That truck seems to be in a much different situation. 10A would be similar to the first outlet they used in the video. The truck calculated a time on the order of several days to charge the truck. You do bring up a good point though. Not all EVs charging at campgrounds would be as power hungry as the Lightning.
Campgrounds will figure it out. Probably an extra fee of $15-20 per night. 100 kWh would cost them somewhere in this range because businesses pay a higher rate.
For a lot of campgrounds there would probably also be a pretty sizable equipment upgrade investment. Many campgrounds don't have very well maintained electric service (loose plugs, bad breakers, old wires). Most RV loads are intermittent, so low rated wire and low service rating isn't typically an issue. But if you add a bunch of constant loads, lots of stuff will need to be upgraded which would also have to factor into the cost.
That 110v outlet will charge at less than 1 KW. Our local Dragstrip let us charge through a 110 and it couldn’t draw more than 1 KW. Our other local track has Nema 14-50 outlets and we can get 8-9 KW for our Teslas there.
Yep about 1 kW sounds correct. I was thinking that 5 days at 2,4kW was impossible (as that would be almost 300kWh charged). So they needed to charge about 115kW, at 1 kW that would be about 5 days.
Most campgrounds have a limited number of 120v/50 amp sites and they’re going to reserve them for the bigger Class A, Class C and big 5th wheel campers. Most sites are 120v/30 amp. So you’re going to need a camper while your waiting. Since towing range is so poor, your best bet is a pop-top pickup bed camper. Those are fairly light weight. Once campgrounds catch on to EV trucks they may restrict charging just due to the limited total power capacity.
I’m an avid camping enthusiast and I don’t think charging at the campgrounds is an issue. It was hydroelectric power at the last place we camped in Arkansas.
Just because the circuit is rated at 20, 30, or 50 amps it does not mean that's what you will get down the wire. Level one (110/120V) charging is throttled to 12A and level 2 (220/240V) at 32A or 48A depending on your vehicle. Even with a 50A circuit, as I have for my Model 3, I will never see more than 32A. When you get to Level 3 and Fast DC charging then you will see much higher currents limited only by the circuit size and charge acceptance rate of your EV.
In a remote area can you get a charge from a generator? And what is the smallest wattage generator like a Honda 2000 watt or would it have to be bigger ? I like the campground charging idea, something I haven't thought about, I don't see why it would be a problem if you're camping anyway.
you can, but that 2000w honda is only good for about the same as a regular 120v outlet like they showed at the beginning of the video. So, a very long time charging. You could go to a bigger generator, but then you're looking at needing the fuel to keep it fed.
You would want to use a 5000 to 10,000 watt generator.
search other youtube videos for generator level1/2 charging... most don't provide enough power, especially 240v, but bigger issue is pure sine-wave output or not... some EV charger bricks flake out or fail with false sine wave generators. They would be loud/smelly, but of course that applies to RV generators too.
After watching this video........just save yourself time and aggravation and just buy the gas powered F150
I own a class A RV and even in the summer heat it doesn't pull anything like the EV does continously. Unfortunately, campsite electricity is notoriously poor, especially if the campsite is full. Low voltage/current can cause all sorts of problems with your camper.
Yes about 8 years ago I had a small 20 foot unit I would plug into 110 outlet I couldn't use the a/c no big deal but the frigid kept switching to and from propane. I should have manually left it on propane because all the switching back and forth it fried the computer in my RV. Definitely need a volt meter when plugging in any thing but a fan or light bulb. All campground electrical isn't the same.
In the UK camping with my leaf - The camp sites have 240v 16 amp connections. Some sites tell you electric cars blow up their power outlets which is obviously rubbish! However those that let me charge just charge for the pitch that caravans and campers use as even running all the time t charge at 10 or 16 amps they are still ahead on the cost of electricity! There is unfortunately still far too much fear and doubt being spread about EV's! Love the F150 and the rivian but we will never see them here unfortunately.
Your Ford with a camper shell on it is no different from a typical RV running off a 50 amp outlet. If you try to draw more than 55-60 amps, the breaker will trip, so you aren’t drawing any more power at 32 amps than a diesel pusher RV with AC, fridge, 2 air conditioners or heaters with electric resistance strips in the winter. Probably less. It’s none of the other campers business what you are doing at your campsite, nor yours at theirs.
An RV "50 amp" plug actually provides 100 amps. Notice that it's actually 2-50A breakers. So in reality if the charger maxes out at 32A you're really using a lot less than what it's capable of and what someone with a multi-AC unit would draw.
@@andrewsteenbuck8537 I am not an electrician, but I think that is dangerous misinformation. The two 50 amp breakers are on separate legs of the 220 circuit so no, the limit is 50 amps. In fact for continuous applications such as car charging, you must not exceed 80% of the 50 amps, so 40 amps is the limit if you don't want to risk damaging their equipment.
@@andrewsteenbuck8537 Uhh no.
@@andrewsteenbuck8537 Incorrect. If you overload one leg of that circuit, it will trip both. That's why they're ganged together. You're are limited to the 50, and even that is not continuous duty. That rating on the breaker is its TRIP rating, not maximum continuous duty. It's dangerous to assume you have 100 amps as you have no ability to balance your load on that breaker effectively enough.
@@dfgriggs You are correct.
Is there a campground every 200 miles? I don't think so. Wow days to charge on 110 and thank you for making my electric bill higher for my house and the car I am forced to buy in 10 years.
So, I’m not really sure what the question is surrounding paying for charging or using the electrical hookup at a campsite. If your staying at a site with a hookup, you are paying to use the electricity provided, doesn’t matter if you have your huge rv with a fridge, AC, TV and who knows what else running, or charging the huge battery in your truck. They built these sites so that literally every spot can have an RV in it plugged in drawing up to 50 amps. These campgrounds have PLENTY of times where all the sites are full and all of them are plugged in at the same time, it doesn’t matter, it’s literally how the campground is designed. Been that way long before EV’s. Nothings going to happen if you parked a truck at every spot and charged because nothing already happens when RV’s do the exact same thing. So no, you shouldn’t pay more, you should pay what an RV pays for the same access. Which is already part of the fee.
EVs represent a more constant long term load if charging from empty or near empty. RV systems cycle on and off as needed. There is indeed a difference. Right now, one EV in a campground isn't going to make a big difference in the grand scheme of things, but several years from now, the narrative might change. Most campgrounds will just raise their nightly rates across the board to cover any extra costs. - Just like they've done since the pandemic with the high demand for sites thanks to all the new RV owners.
Any load in the truck ? I bet it's empty ! A friend has one and when 2 adults 2 kids and less than 2 tonn’s caravan is on he needs charge every 80/130 miles or 2/3 hours but has 400 miles apparently empty sorry but it's a pickup for doing heavy duty things !!!!!! Your using a big TOY !
My Landover 2.7 can do nearly 600 miles per tank and only takes 10 mins to fill !!!!!!! 14 hours every day lol that will get old by the 3rd charge !!
@@danpaquette4346 Very good explanation. However, lefties don’t care about facts or how things ACTUALLY work - they only care about LOOKING right (as opposed to actually BEING right). Maybe this person is an exception, but most lefties won’t care about the truth of the matter.😊
Yes they should charge a fee so they can increase the infrastructure. They would also be able to limit how many evs were charging. Second your box won't work because it likely uses 2 hots instead of a neutral and a hot. Your 30 Amp uses neutral and a hot but your device is expecting two hots.