Nice vid. I got a Raimondi Gladiator 130 last year for a big bath with 24 x 48 mitered corners and 32 x 32 diagonals and had about the same results as you demonstrate. What worked for me was to rip tile first then cut miter just under glaze (top). It gives a nice line to follow. These big bridge saws really give you lots of control wrestling those big tile.
Great video! One thing that I have tried with this saw that makes the miters come out better is to cut the tile first to the length that you need and then cut the miter. This prevents the saw from walking on you as you rip through. I usually leave a 16th or less as the “bead” so that it does not chip the glaze. Hope this helps and maybe you can put it on video.
As already said below , what work really well for miter cuts is to do a 1 or 2 mm pre-cut (90°) and the blade will follow nicely the groove in miter mode. I do it in two passes for 20mm tiles. I was so angry at first but then , doing this way , it became a joy to assemble really straight and well cut mitre parts ! (i don't know if we have the same motor , i have a 250VA with 800mm of cut). Another tip is that the continuous rims works better for me (in miter position) , blade is thicker and keep the groove in a better way.
Great video man, keep up the good work ! I am a tile setter myself and I been using IMER tile saws for the past 15 years and let me tell you the old IMER saws used to last longer , on the new ones the motor or the condesor / capacitor goes bad. I recently send to IMER to fix my 2 saws they won’t turn on at all. I hope they get fix soon.
Great video , just bought the rubi TZ-1550 manual cutter for 48in tile. Hope it’s worth the money. Any updates on the rip saw? Thinking I need the wet saw to go with the big manual tile cutter.
What was the thought process on bridge saw us tile cracker? I just invested about the same price in two sigma cracker. With the large high end tile break beautifully. I can only do 48”. Did it for many the wood plank. Not saying a bridge saw is out of my mind. I just fully don’t see the reason to combat big with big. As for the miter I just see different tools that are able to put a board line factory edge miter on job site utilizing a angle grinder at the heart. Dying to be able to justify that tool. Do you run pick up trucks and trailer to transport tools?
I bought a Rubi for 48 inch tiles. It's getting returned. The blade wonders to the left 1/8 in 4 feet. 1/16 in two feet. I was really happy to own that saw and I'm kind of bummed because I have to return it. Thought I had a solution to a lot of my problems and I do not, I just added to my problems. This particular saw your showing probably has the same issue. When these motors hang below the rail there's a tendency for the blade to drift. You can go to a mano saw F1 but it'll set you back three grand and it's heavy. If you have time to reply or suggest any other Bridge saws I like to hear it. Thank you
if you do larger than 24'" tiles at least on 50% of your jobs it makes sense and as it is i charge more for larger tiles. I actualy bought mine second hand for $500 it a raimondi pikus 105 and it is 100% more convenient than my mk 101 in time ill be upgrading to something that can cut 48' tiles just to be prepared.
Awesome video and review! That saw is a beast! What does that machine run?$
Isaac Ostrom Right on, that's not that bad of price for that big of a saw. What would you miter a tile that size for? 36+ inches?
Isaac Ostrom , Gotcha! I'll have to check out that finec profile! Loving your new camera man, looks good from my view! 👊
Nice vid. I got a Raimondi Gladiator 130 last year for a big bath with 24 x 48 mitered corners and 32 x 32 diagonals and had about the same results as you demonstrate. What worked for me was to rip tile first then cut miter just under glaze (top). It gives a nice line to follow.
These big bridge saws really give you lots of control wrestling those big tile.
Great video! One thing that I have tried with this saw that makes the miters come out better is to cut the tile first to the length that you need and then cut the miter. This prevents the saw from walking on you as you rip through. I usually leave a 16th or less as the “bead” so that it does not chip the glaze. Hope this helps and maybe you can put it on video.
As already said below , what work really well for miter cuts is to do a 1 or 2 mm pre-cut (90°) and the blade will follow nicely the groove in miter mode. I do it in two passes for 20mm tiles. I was so angry at first but then , doing this way , it became a joy to assemble really straight and well cut mitre parts ! (i don't know if we have the same motor , i have a 250VA with 800mm of cut). Another tip is that the continuous rims works better for me (in miter position) , blade is thicker and keep the groove in a better way.
Great video man, keep up the good work !
I am a tile setter myself and I been using IMER tile saws for the past 15 years and let me tell you the old IMER saws used to last longer , on the new ones the motor or the condesor / capacitor goes bad. I recently send to IMER to fix my 2 saws they won’t turn on at all. I hope they get fix soon.
Great review, my question is where did you find the tile locking bar I been looking for it everywhere but no luck finding it
Do a straight cut and then 45. I also take the edge off with a 200 so it's easier to follow when you do 45.
Hey do you have a video how to replace the spring? The one on mine snapped
Great video. Im in the market for a bridge saw. Is their specific Blades for miter cuttting?
Any videos on square this saw up?
Great video , just bought the rubi TZ-1550 manual cutter for 48in tile. Hope it’s worth the money. Any updates on the rip saw? Thinking I need the wet saw to go with the big manual tile cutter.
What was the thought process on bridge saw us tile cracker? I just invested about the same price in two sigma cracker. With the large high end tile break beautifully. I can only do 48”. Did it for many the wood plank. Not saying a bridge saw is out of my mind. I just fully don’t see the reason to combat big with big. As for the miter I just see different tools that are able to put a board line factory edge miter on job site utilizing a angle grinder at the heart. Dying to be able to justify that tool. Do you run pick up trucks and trailer to transport tools?
Hey johnny woods tile out of ft worth Texas....cut it about an 1/8 deep straight.. then tilt tobthe mitter
How has the saw held up?
I think to cut out at the 45 it needs to cut little like a 1/8 deep and then cut again
I bought a Rubi for 48 inch tiles. It's getting returned. The blade wonders to the left 1/8 in 4 feet. 1/16 in two feet. I was really happy to own that saw and I'm kind of bummed because I have to return it. Thought I had a solution to a lot of my problems and I do not, I just added to my problems. This particular saw your showing probably has the same issue. When these motors hang below the rail there's a tendency for the blade to drift. You can go to a mano saw F1 but it'll set you back three grand and it's heavy. If you have time to reply or suggest any other Bridge saws I like to hear it. Thank you
Are you using this tile saw? Your impression after a year?
Do you have a link
put a special blade for miter cuts they are mor thick in the center .
what is the verdict? buy it..not to buy it.... from watching your video..waste of $2500..I guess
if you do larger than 24'" tiles at least on 50% of your jobs it makes sense and as it is i charge more for larger tiles. I actualy bought mine second hand for $500 it a raimondi pikus 105 and it is 100% more convenient than my mk 101 in time ill be upgrading to something that can cut 48' tiles just to be prepared.