I'm wondering if people watching these and your Princess builds , and you for that matter realise what a talented,welder/fabricator, auto engineer you are. I'm a time served mechanical engineer (retired) and in my youth built a Mark 1 Escoort Rally car to RAC Spec. I'm loving ALL your vids, thank you so much, keep up the excellent work.👍
Excellent stuff. The journey we take on a project is usually much more interesting than the final product (whatever that may be) and makes for great content. Ingenuity, problem solving, creativity... Keep up the great work.
Nice progress Adam, your process makes total sense to me - I've just finished making the engine mounts for my AJ30 swap, next is the gearbox mount and then it's time to sort the steering as that's another thing which can't really be moved. Looking forward to the next video, it helps keep me inspired!
Great to see progress on this project, like Binky but turbocharged, except Binky has a turbo and this doesn't... yet. Wasn't a type R but my FN2 handled exceptionally well, all this rigidity you're welding in has to bring the all agro at least 80% of the way there.
Engine mounts rubbers : don't put them near anything hot, and definitely don't put a turbo on top of them, otherwise you'll kill them. Engine mount tie bars : these never live more than 40,000 in a road car before they fatigue and lose stiffness, so don't use old one. Replacements are usually cheap. Lower engine mounts from f56 mini/ bmw 2 series touring are a decent design
Few extra kilos on engine mountings is weight spent in the right place as far as I'm concerned. You can probably put a few lightweighting holes here & there without losing much strength but not the end of the world. The stock Honda engine mount setup is quite involved from memory. One thing I would say is that I have a K20A2 (EP3) in a kitcar which uses a basic engine mounting strategy with metalastic bushes & it's quite a buzzy motor. The Z3 version had balance shafts which would presumably help (although most people seem to remove them) but given the choice I'd use the full Honda setup as at least you'll have a reasonable level of isolation which you can stiffen with aftermarket parts if necessary. Shaping up nicely though.
Nice! Thanks for sharing! I would've placed the "rubber part" om-top of the chassieg, en redisgned the gearbox-mount. The chassis-side mount looks "flimsy" only holded by 2 bolts. 👊🏼
A cracking episode!! Fuzz Townsend once said that one of Car SOS’s restorations would take 1000s of “man” hours…not sure whether I should use “person” hours..I’m curious, more than anything - how many hours have gone into the AllegRo & how many hours do you think it will take? Keep up the fabulous work 👍🏼
I’m not counting. Working hours aren’t always in front of the car either, sometimes it’s spent thinking while out with the dogs or sat on the sofa. Too hard to count 😅
Is there a reason you kept the bottom plate full width on the gearbox mount? From this angle it looks like you could have just had the studs from the box going through just a flange rather than the full width plate. Obviously you would loose some stiffness but you could add webbing at either end of the flange and leave the inboard wall in it still. It would mean you could remove that mount without having to remove the other part as well. Cheers for the insight and details. Really interesting build.
I’d have to remove way more than I’d be comfortable with in order to remove it. Rather just hole saw it. Can’t see it ever being an issue to remove as one assembly😃
How come you mounted the rear pillowball on the lower arms in a horizontal plane rather than vertical? Looking at the design of the lower arm, those joints will only ever move in a vertical plane so surely it would be best the same as the front joint? Anything rotational should be picked up my the ball-joint at the bottom of the hub. Just interested as it’s something I don’t fully understand. Keep up the Cardboard-Aided-Design and tasty fab-work!
Thanks for the response. Makes a lot of sense. Doing a bit more research it looks like the horizontal plane will also help with stresses on the joint under braking applications too as the forces won’t be pulling the ball part of the joint out of the socket gaps! Keep up the good work!
I am a fan of the Allegro having competed years ago against Pat Ryan,s 1300 Howells of Newport rally car .I seem to remember it had an A series engine with four Amel carbs on a crossflow head Fast it was , reliable I am not so sure.However I digress ,you are obviously very clever and think about what you do ,have you ever thought of taking up politics?
2 questions I have. How much weight will be added to tie car with this front end, and how does it attach to the rest of the car structure to be strong?
I’m commenting as someone with no expertise whatsoever on the matter, but a thought occurs to me; with the extremely strong reinforcements fitted to the front of the car to accommodate the new engine and suspension, will the front of the car be so much stronger than the middle and rear that the car might split in half given enough stress and load placed on it? Does the rest of the car need some strengthening so that loads are handled more evenly?
As per 3:05 DO NOT scrap off any jig parts or templates. You may have people lined up in the future who would wanna throw K20s in more Allegros or other similar cars. . 😎👌
Shouldn't the engine mounts be at the same height across the car (Z dimension) so the engine does not rotate at an angle? (Centre of rotation is in one plane) If you have different heights the engine will pull up on one side.
@@FabCoUK Hmm, from the images I see on the web, the chassis rails of the Civic are level in Z and there is a hydro-mount with drop plate to get to the mount on RHS the rail. The gearbox end has a riser plate to lift the mount up from the transmission to the LHS rail. It all looks fairly conventional for a current FWD transverse engine and from that, the rotation point for the power unit will be aligned across the car in Y. A classic example of getting it wrong is the Maestro/Montego. Ok (sort of) with the 1.6l engine but the 2.0l and 2.0l turbo suffered from horrendous torque steer issues because of the engine rotation being mis-aligned. This pulled one drive shaft and pushed the other.
A bit late in the comments, but some sort of roll cage may be wise. Your work looks good, but I’d bet that it’s so strong that the passenger cell will become the crumple zone in a head on collision…
Haha you gotta love car fabricators "over engineerinered with thick plate" but tap M8 IN 3MM box 😂 it's not even a full nut worthy of thread but hay who's checking 🤭. Still looks interesting how it's all coming together.
@@FabCoUK M10 with 3 mm wall, you should drill it out and weld in a bar with the thread in because if you over tighten it it will pull the thread, if its just temporary then fair enough for development.
It would have been a lot more efficient and economical to weld on a late model honda civic front clip ( chassis rail and inner guards) with accompanying suspension and a k series swap kit , , rather than trying to reinvent the wheel and making the whole thing look like a tank . A small car like this doesn't need 4x2 chassis rails, I am not an internet engineer, rather a performance car builder with 53 years mechanic skills
Because it takes 3-4 times as long to do it that way, and you end up with way too much footage to use. You're probably more suited to project binky type videos
Love the process of going from folded cardboard, to tacked metal to something that is actually pretty close to the finished article.
Proper Engineering...love it.
If it looks right, it probably is right and this looks bob-on.
Thanks John!
I'm wondering if people watching these and your Princess builds , and you for that matter realise what a talented,welder/fabricator, auto engineer you are.
I'm a time served mechanical engineer (retired) and in my youth built a Mark 1 Escoort Rally car to RAC Spec.
I'm loving ALL your vids, thank you so much, keep up the excellent work.👍
Thanks!
6:20 now there's a man who is confident with a tap. :D Awesome update! Over-engineering is the best kind of engineering!
Thanks Lewis!
That was a fantastic insight into your engineering thought processes. Cannot wait to see the next episode.
Thanks! 😃
Fascinating to watch. Can’t wait for the next update 👍👍
Thanks Peter!
"...hope it's entertaining to watch..." This is exactly what I want to watch. Brilliant stuff, mate.
Thanks Simon!😌
Excellent work, looking forward to seeing the next episode 👍
Thanks for watching 😄
If Isambard Kingdom Brunel built cars, this is how he would do it 😎😎. Great progress keep it up 👍👍
Doubt it, he’d have used steam and wrought iron!
Steampunk Allegro🤪
@@FabCoUK Now there’s an idea!
What, with triangulation?
Geting some solid mounts together, we do love a good gusset. 😉 great video 2x👍
😀😀
Car is coming along and I love the jumper 🤟
This is some pretty epic stuff. The thought & process as well as your simple no fuss explanation is very interesting.
Cheers
Thanks 😃
Project Binky has been eight years so far, I'm getting old now and I so want to see this project finished Please. Great work. Keep well and stay safe.
Thanks for watching 😃
Corking video cheers. Fabulous engineering; build it strong and it'll have inherant beauty.
Thanks!
Brillo stuff... Great problem solving skills on display
Thanks!😊
Loving this, could watch it all day!
Thanks Dean!
love the CAD work ! " Cardboard Aided Design " cheers. :)
I agree stronger engine mounts the better stop worrying how they look Jonny wants sleeper great work lol 👍👍
Thanks for watching 😃
Excellent stuff. The journey we take on a project is usually much more interesting than the final product (whatever that may be) and makes for great content. Ingenuity, problem solving, creativity... Keep up the great work.
100% agree. I’m about the journey and not the destination 😃
Looking good....
Lookin awesome m8 nice 1👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Brilliant video yet again. Can't wait to see the end result 👌🎥🎥👌
Thanks Tony!
Looking great 👍 your skills are 👌👌👌
Thanks Phil ✌🏻
Well done!
Thanks!
@@FabCoUK wasted talent lol! Well in the bigger scheme of things 😄
Nice to hear a brain ticking at work, very rare thing these days.
Just found this channel Love it .Always done rover cars , Triumph dolomites my main ones
Thanks!😃
Superb stuff. Never cheat a mil!
Thanks 😊
Another top episode,loving your work
Thanks 😊
Good to finally see good progress on this great project. Keep up the good work.
Trying to keep plugging away!🙌🏻
Amazing, look forward to the next instalment..
Thanks!😌
Really enjoying this build Adam already looking forward to the next one !
Thanks for watching 😃
Great work and very interesting to watch.
Thanks!😃
Great stuff, and don't worry, it is very entertaining to watch!
Another great video, your explanations come across really well 😊
Thanks Kevin!
Superb video, very interesting and great doing and chatting balance 😀
Thanks Rohan😎
Very entertaining and informative love your hard work keep it up
Thanks 😬
Nice progress Adam, your process makes total sense to me - I've just finished making the engine mounts for my AJ30 swap, next is the gearbox mount and then it's time to sort the steering as that's another thing which can't really be moved. Looking forward to the next video, it helps keep me inspired!
Thanks David. Stick at it!
Top content again.. looking good 😎👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Peter 🤩
Great to see progress, thanks for sharing!
Top work mate! Keep it up…
Great work, thanks for the vid. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Betty!
Loving the work 😁
Great to see progress on this project, like Binky but turbocharged, except Binky has a turbo and this doesn't... yet. Wasn't a type R but my FN2 handled exceptionally well, all this rigidity you're welding in has to bring the all agro at least 80% of the way there.
80% of the time, every time! Thanks for watching 😃
Engine mounts rubbers : don't put them near anything hot, and definitely don't put a turbo on top of them, otherwise you'll kill them. Engine mount tie bars : these never live more than 40,000 in a road car before they fatigue and lose stiffness, so don't use old one. Replacements are usually cheap. Lower engine mounts from f56 mini/ bmw 2 series touring are a decent design
Most of the wear items will be new, but not worrying about using new parts during dry build stage 😁
Just be careful.with oe mounts, it's likely that the rubber won't live beyond 70C continuous
Few extra kilos on engine mountings is weight spent in the right place as far as I'm concerned. You can probably put a few lightweighting holes here & there without losing much strength but not the end of the world. The stock Honda engine mount setup is quite involved from memory. One thing I would say is that I have a K20A2 (EP3) in a kitcar which uses a basic engine mounting strategy with metalastic bushes & it's quite a buzzy motor. The Z3 version had balance shafts which would presumably help (although most people seem to remove them) but given the choice I'd use the full Honda setup as at least you'll have a reasonable level of isolation which you can stiffen with aftermarket parts if necessary. Shaping up nicely though.
Oh there will be lots of holesaw treatment yet 😃
This is part three. "Part five" has just been released... Is there a part four?
Jonnys part 5 just went live, our series is released differently
@@FabCoUK Thanks! I'm making one big Playlist!
Nice! Thanks for sharing! I would've placed the "rubber part" om-top of the chassieg, en redisgned the gearbox-mount. The chassis-side mount looks "flimsy" only holded by 2 bolts. 👊🏼
There’s many ways to skin a cat! There are four bolts, two hidden ‘inside’ that you can’t see 😃
Ok, thanks!
ace video. love your thought process, and i prefer to over engineer than under lol
Thanks Craig!
Good luck with the safety squints.
🤓
Awesome
A cracking episode!! Fuzz Townsend once said that one of Car SOS’s restorations would take 1000s of “man” hours…not sure whether I should use “person” hours..I’m curious, more than anything - how many hours have gone into the AllegRo & how many hours do you think it will take? Keep up the fabulous work 👍🏼
I’m not counting. Working hours aren’t always in front of the car either, sometimes it’s spent thinking while out with the dogs or sat on the sofa. Too hard to count 😅
It makes sense how you spend time to make all these accurate pieces.
did you get an estimate on how much weight will be added to the front ?
I’d say it weights less than what I chopped off still currently
Love the corner gussets, will you put a hole in the corner near the body for any water/dirt build ups.???
I might add something yeah, but I’d be surprised if this car ever sees rain 😅
Is there a reason you kept the bottom plate full width on the gearbox mount? From this angle it looks like you could have just had the studs from the box going through just a flange rather than the full width plate. Obviously you would loose some stiffness but you could add webbing at either end of the flange and leave the inboard wall in it still. It would mean you could remove that mount without having to remove the other part as well.
Cheers for the insight and details. Really interesting build.
I’d have to remove way more than I’d be comfortable with in order to remove it. Rather just hole saw it. Can’t see it ever being an issue to remove as one assembly😃
How come you mounted the rear pillowball on the lower arms in a horizontal plane rather than vertical?
Looking at the design of the lower arm, those joints will only ever move in a vertical plane so surely it would be best the same as the front joint? Anything rotational should be picked up my the ball-joint at the bottom of the hub.
Just interested as it’s something I don’t fully understand. Keep up the Cardboard-Aided-Design and tasty fab-work!
Mounting them horizontally allowed the mounts to act as a gusset between the car body and the box section that mounts the lower arm
Thanks for the response. Makes a lot of sense.
Doing a bit more research it looks like the horizontal plane will also help with stresses on the joint under braking applications too as the forces won’t be pulling the ball part of the joint out of the socket gaps!
Keep up the good work!
Are you not concerned about weld spatter on the windows? I notice the glass is not protected from spatter on the Allegro or the Princess.
Glass is being changed on both cars 😃
I am a fan of the Allegro having competed years ago against Pat Ryan,s 1300 Howells of Newport rally car .I seem to remember it had an A series engine with four Amel carbs on a crossflow head Fast it was , reliable I am not so sure.However I digress ,you are obviously very clever and think about what you do ,have you ever thought of taking up politics?
2 questions I have. How much weight will be added to tie car with this front end, and how does it attach to the rest of the car structure to be strong?
No idea until we actually weigh it, but I can tell you there two inner wings I cut off in ep1 are way heavier than you’d think!
I’m commenting as someone with no expertise whatsoever on the matter, but a thought occurs to me; with the extremely strong reinforcements fitted to the front of the car to accommodate the new engine and suspension, will the front of the car be so much stronger than the middle and rear that the car might split in half given enough stress and load placed on it? Does the rest of the car need some strengthening so that loads are handled more evenly?
Yeah we’ll work backwards at some point, plenty to do yet 😀
Have you seen a factory mount for that engine. Trucks don't even have a engine mounts that robust. Gonna be a heavy build.
There’s still plenty of drill & holesaw action to take place yet, fear not!🤓
Love a speed hole or two!
@@southney7211 drillium!
Bit over engineering, but it will last forever. If it looks right then it’s all good.
Hello mate 👍
Now then!
Just round some corners on those mounts and it will look a lot less tractor like.
Keep your eyes peeled 😃
As per 3:05 DO NOT scrap off any jig parts or templates. You may have people lined up in the future who would wanna throw K20s in more Allegros or other similar cars. . 😎👌
Optimistic!😅
@@FabCoUK you never know. Someone once put a K20 into a Mini and now they are ten a penny. K20 AllegRos could be the future 😁
@@E9JMX maybe.. but certainly not my future. One is enough!😂
Approaching project Binky engineering, just..."a bit"...quicker build.
Also nice to see someone work with proper safety gear. 👌
There’s is on another level..
@@FabCoUK well your build is next level
Saw a fairly mint one of these in axminster Devon, same horrible colour !
Shouldn't the engine mounts be at the same height across the car (Z dimension) so the engine does not rotate at an angle? (Centre of rotation is in one plane) If you have different heights the engine will pull up on one side.
Not according to Honda😅
@@FabCoUK Hmm, from the images I see on the web, the chassis rails of the Civic are level in Z and there is a hydro-mount with drop plate to get to the mount on RHS the rail. The gearbox end has a riser plate to lift the mount up from the transmission to the LHS rail. It all looks fairly conventional for a current FWD transverse engine and from that, the rotation point for the power unit will be aligned across the car in Y. A classic example of getting it wrong is the Maestro/Montego. Ok (sort of) with the 1.6l engine but the 2.0l and 2.0l turbo suffered from horrendous torque steer issues because of the engine rotation being mis-aligned. This pulled one drive shaft and pushed the other.
I want to see some serious triangulation in the next episode, please :-)
Disappointing lack in this episode I know!
you can`t beat a good gusset..
You said gusset.
Commenting for algorithm reasons
A bit late in the comments, but some sort of roll cage may be wise. Your work looks good, but I’d bet that it’s so strong that the passenger cell will become the crumple zone in a head on collision…
There’s plenty still to do 🤩
Erm, did I just see a hole tapped, using a drill?
Consumables!😄
Standard industry practice..
Haha you gotta love car fabricators "over engineerinered with thick plate" but tap M8 IN 3MM box 😂 it's not even a full nut worthy of thread but hay who's checking 🤭. Still looks interesting how it's all coming together.
@@ricardo-iw9sq m10 ;)
@@FabCoUK M10 with 3 mm wall, you should drill it out and weld in a bar with the thread in because if you over tighten it it will pull the thread, if its just temporary then fair enough for development.
Nice process but that will be a quite heavy piece of car….
Function over form....
It would have been a lot more efficient and economical to weld on a late model honda civic front clip ( chassis rail and inner guards) with accompanying suspension and a k series swap kit , , rather than trying to reinvent the wheel and making the whole thing look like a tank . A small car like this doesn't need 4x2 chassis rails, I am not an internet engineer, rather a performance car builder with 53 years mechanic skills
Apart from a Civic is much wider than an Allegro 🙁
‘I’m no expert’. Wait, what?!
Never trust anyone who claims to be an expert 👀
@@FabCoUK, I was taught, ‘an ex, is a has-been and a spurt is a drip under pressure.’
Have you watched Oliver pickards channel? He likes a tin foil engine mount
Can’t say as I have!
Sorry can't watch this any longer. Drilling steel with no safety glasses. Big no no. Unsubscribed.
I had safety squints engaged🤓
Bye👋🏻
why, why would you do all the fab work off camer then use the video time to sit there and talk .. ffs. what an epic waste of time.
Because it takes 3-4 times as long to do it that way, and you end up with way too much footage to use. You're probably more suited to project binky type videos