You've just educated me bro, I've been in a real quandary, few weeks ago I lost flexidrive and prop out my Boat, Joysway Alpha, I've got replacement parts on order but the wait time is horrendous, I've tried my hardest to get bushes to fit the strut and the flexidrive, nothing matches, so it's looking like the best thing to do is replace the strut that bushes etc are available for and can be bought here in the UK, because honestly I've spent hours and hours searching for the parts, so this video was a godsend for me, Loving the drag boat build, you just do what you think is best, can't wait to see the end result its gonna be amazing Sorry for the long comment but you've really helped me out 🇬🇧
Best video yet B. So many different options to choose from, can be intimidating. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything in detail. Can't wait to see the progress with the Drag boat it looks awesome.
I like the floating bushing too. It has a lot of surface area and it's easy to maintain. One problem with them is the floating nature of the bearing, nothing to contain it from walking up and down the prop shaft. The other problem, and is a problem in general for r/c boats, is the open nature of the prop shaft bearing, creating grease slicks and water pollution. I wanted a sealed solution! So I came up with a small, lip seal tucked onto the very back of the strut, that is contained and gives me the whole season without having to get into it! Or about every 10 runs... That works best with pressed bushings as you showed. A compromise here, real low maintenance of a very greasy, dirty area of the boat, verses the drag created by the solution. It's not a speed run thing you would want on the boat, for sure...
Great video Big B and very informative to to general hobbyist. I think you nailed it on the flat VRs round strut. My opinion there a different between the two. Flat will act like a ride pad surface and give tad more lift. Especially needed when using non lifting props. Like ABC. Some boats just like the transom lift. Good video explaining all the differences. I’ve been taking some time away from social media lately but wanted to pop in and comment on the good video bud. Keep tinkering, testing and tuning.
Thanks, great video. I mounted a strut on a mono and slotted the bracket holes vertically. Same size one hole up and one hole down from original mount holes. I also put a slotted hole in transom vertically and it gave me adjustability up and down.
@@IRONCLADRC that's a interesting one but as you said that extra weight can be a problem unless you can manage it, keeping the CFG in the same place but always a nice touch i would myself if racing keeping it simple but play running what's the harm in learning.
Thank you for your dedication in this hobby man. I watch your videos almost every day to learn. Where lots of other guys rather keep things to themselves you push it out for us man. Big thanks! Hey b, inline rudder or off center?
Big B Super video - what kind of strud goes then into the new 31,5" / 800mm RC Pro Boot FRP Swifter -XL Racing Hydro??? and what rudder and motor and WHY???
YOUR RIGHT THERE IS NO AJUSTMENT ON MY MAD FLOW . BUT I THINK I HAVE WORKED OUT A WAY TO CHANGE THE ANGEL UP AND DOWN ON THE PROP. IF IT WORKS I WILL INFORM YOU. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR DRAG BOAT, SEE YOU IN A FEW DAYS.
Very good info! Questions: Is there a Bushing made that I can run a 3/16" Prop, on a 4mm prop shaft? Any info is appreciated. You have the best info on RC Boats, on the TUBE !! Thanks for your time and effort.
its really easy to make the brass sleeves. just flare the end. add holes for the marine grease and oil but not necessary. i just always tighten the flex collar before every run. the transom strut combos are fairly reasonable 20-40 bucks depending on size. ive never used stingers for obvious limitations reasons , and i NEVER use the teflon plastic inserts they will melt bind up and destroy your boat at high speeds every time
Great video still teaching this newbie me plenty. Have a question on the strut with the bearings you showed in a packet. Does the flanged bearing closet to prop get loctited in or does the drive dog push against it to keep it locked in.? Mine came out when I pulled flex shaft the first time.out of a SR80 Pro and I have no idea if it was loctited or just loose don't want to damage anything 😊 Thanks again
For the long stinger for dual motor boats I can’t figure out how to remove it to grease the boat, I can’t get to that nut an bolt on the top because it’s like blocked by the overhang of the hull
Hi, hope you can help me out. I have an old fireglass Nitro boat that's called the warlord. It's 50 inches long and I want to switch it from Nitro to electric but I don't know what size motor and ESC that I need. Can you please advise?
I would think a needle bearing would work, I'd you can find the correct size and if it allows the shaft to be pulled out on a regular basis for maintenance.
hello I am looking for the perfect transmission for genesis 6s for 100km/h and + what would you advise me, thank you your videos are great, I learned a lot from you
I am told you need (period) an offset rudder with a stinger and it needs to be at about same place (period) as the prop. Is that because it's difficult put the rudder in line and the arm needs to be very long? Is there a disadvantage to inline other then length? All boats I have are offset rudder and turn well but i would think that inline is the best because you steer the trust. I had for instance the idea for a new build to use a stinger with a very short rudderarm so you don't see it as much for scale looks, or a steerable strut. Something like that exists (MHZ Powerboats fake outboard with a flexcable, motor is in the hull) but is quite expensive and i don't know if it works well but i like the clean looks off that. There are almost no (really fast) boats with such a type off propulsion so i asume there's a reason for that. The thing is i really don't want to mess up the hull cause it's quite rare. And because off that i think that scale looks, and putting some extra nice quality stuff in it do it only right... Any ideas?
To be quite honest I'd have to actually see the boat and hardware that's going on it to give an honest opinion. I'd hate to STEER you in the wrong direction. "Pun intended "lol
Maybe you could try to Google it. Don't think MHZ(powerboats) is a brand thats common in States nor the hull (type hull hpr010). Maybe there's even something for your likings in the shop. It all quality stuff (in my opinion) for that matter but expensive. Also don't know if (for fake outboard) a 47 prop (max size) is big enough to push it to let's say 60mph. Its not heavy and wide so i would guess it should be good, but setup's infound were all 50+mm. But the blackjack42 for instance doesn't use such a big prop... Lot's of variabels... ;-)
I am interested in the TFL porsuit carbon and they offer it in 2 version with price difference, one with the stinger drive and the other with integrated drive, which one is more durable and better please? Thank you for video and sharing 👍🙏
@@IRONCLADRC thank you very much for your answer sir 👍 i will use it only on sea water, i hope all the aluminum parts will be ok with salt as i didn’t find a brand that has stainless steel to offer 👍🫡
Hey man I have been meaning to ask if you have many problems with de-soldering bullets on hot days. Seems even with my buddies mx41 and my sonicwake being stock electronics they both if held at WOT will eventually pop a motor wire off the bullet. If I run one less cell count I can hold WOT as much as I want. This also happens on my shovelnose. Never had it happen on any of my Grounders Xmaxx, notorious, 12s felony so on, never on my planes or jets, and not on a single 700 heli 12s systems that drain a 5000 12s in 3 minutes. It's odd that boats put down this much load even in stock out of the box form. Any help is appreciated man. On the forums people just get mad and tell me I cant solder or that my setup is wrong lol. but a out of the box mx41 and sonicwake do it. Thanks in advance Sir!!
I've melted solder on many boats, factory or diy solder. I've been increasing the bullet size for more current flow thru the bullets. I've also noticed if the bullets are old or corroded, they tend to get hotter than a nice new fresh bullet.. also check the bullets to for fit.. you want a tight fitting connection Basically try a larger bullet size that may help. I think the stock sonic wake bullet is 5mm so a 6.5 mm bullet should help current flow.
@@IRONCLADRC as usually didnt think of this and u are more helpful then anyone on multiple forums, and u admit it happens. They all look at me like oh mine never do that lol. Thanks again man for keepin it real.
There's a few things you can look at Proping down from pitch to site, if you drop of the plain often the hub of the Prop generates the most load, if you have a prop balincer you can adjust that part. With brushless if the esc is hot and motor cool it's over revving and if both is hot to high a load. But connectors do come in different quality iv manage to get some in a good alloy and thay stay cold hopefully give you something to work with in the right direction.
You've just educated me bro, I've been in a real quandary, few weeks ago I lost flexidrive and prop out my Boat, Joysway Alpha, I've got replacement parts on order but the wait time is horrendous, I've tried my hardest to get bushes to fit the strut and the flexidrive, nothing matches, so it's looking like the best thing to do is replace the strut that bushes etc are available for and can be bought here in the UK, because honestly I've spent hours and hours searching for the parts, so this video was a godsend for me,
Loving the drag boat build, you just do what you think is best, can't wait to see the end result its gonna be amazing
Sorry for the long comment but you've really helped me out 🇬🇧
Best video yet B. So many different options to choose from, can be intimidating. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything in detail. Can't wait to see the progress with the Drag boat it looks awesome.
I like the floating bushing too. It has a lot of surface area and it's easy to maintain. One problem with them is the floating nature of the bearing, nothing to contain it from walking up and down the prop shaft. The other problem, and is a problem in general for r/c boats, is the open nature of the prop shaft bearing, creating grease slicks and water pollution. I wanted a sealed solution! So I came up with a small, lip seal tucked onto the very back of the strut, that is contained and gives me the whole season without having to get into it! Or about every 10 runs... That works best with pressed bushings as you showed. A compromise here, real low maintenance of a very greasy, dirty area of the boat, verses the drag created by the solution. It's not a speed run thing you would want on the boat, for sure...
Great video Big B and very informative to to general hobbyist. I think you nailed it on the flat VRs round strut. My opinion there a different between the two. Flat will act like a ride pad surface and give tad more lift. Especially needed when using non lifting props. Like ABC. Some boats just like the transom lift. Good video explaining all the differences.
I’ve been taking some time away from social media lately but wanted to pop in and comment on the good video bud. Keep tinkering, testing and tuning.
Educational videos are always helpful to someone. I'll watch them all day long....
Thanks, great video. I mounted a strut on a mono and slotted the bracket holes vertically. Same size one hole up and one hole down from original mount holes. I also put a slotted hole in transom vertically and it gave me adjustability up and down.
Awesome video man. You answered a few questions I had
Great video iv been boating for years always good to see what's being used in the modern rc boating world yes I'm borderline old school.
I've been wanting to try the servo adjustable stinger and or trim tabs. Trim while running the boat only disadvantage would be the extra weight.
@@IRONCLADRC that's a interesting one but as you said that extra weight can be a problem unless you can manage it, keeping the CFG in the same place but always a nice touch i would myself if racing keeping it simple but play running what's the harm in learning.
Thank you for your dedication in this hobby man. I watch your videos almost every day to learn. Where lots of other guys rather keep things to themselves you push it out for us man. Big thanks! Hey b, inline rudder or off center?
No problem brother. I like offset rudders, with my experience there faster than a centered rudder setup
Loved it! Engagement for UA-cams analytics
Thanks
Big B Super video - what kind of strud goes then into the new 31,5" / 800mm RC Pro Boot FRP Swifter -XL Racing Hydro??? and what rudder and motor and WHY???
YOUR RIGHT THERE IS NO AJUSTMENT ON MY MAD FLOW . BUT I THINK I HAVE WORKED OUT A WAY TO CHANGE THE ANGEL UP AND DOWN ON THE PROP. IF IT WORKS I WILL INFORM YOU. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR DRAG BOAT, SEE YOU IN A FEW DAYS.
Great content bro , and the Trains were a cool break!!!
Very good info! Questions: Is there a Bushing made that I can run a 3/16" Prop, on a 4mm prop shaft? Any info is appreciated.
You have the best info on RC Boats, on the TUBE !! Thanks for your time and effort.
its really easy to make the brass sleeves. just flare the end. add holes for the marine grease and oil but not necessary. i just always tighten the flex collar before every run. the transom strut combos are fairly reasonable 20-40 bucks depending on size. ive never used stingers for obvious limitations reasons , and i NEVER use the teflon plastic inserts they will melt bind up and destroy your boat at high speeds every time
Great video still teaching this newbie me plenty.
Have a question on the strut with the bearings you showed in a packet.
Does the flanged bearing closet to prop get loctited in or does the drive dog push against it to keep it locked in.?
Mine came out when I pulled flex shaft the first time.out of a SR80 Pro and I have no idea if it was loctited or just loose don't want to damage anything 😊
Thanks again
I would put a dab of blue loc-tite on the flanged bearing, I put blue on both inner and outer bearing
Big b can u have a prop to low/deep in the water
Thank you so much.
For the long stinger for dual motor boats I can’t figure out how to remove it to grease the boat, I can’t get to that nut an bolt on the top because it’s like blocked by the overhang of the hull
Hi, hope you can help me out. I have an old fireglass Nitro boat that's called the warlord. It's 50 inches long and I want to switch it from Nitro to electric but I don't know what size motor and ESC that I need. Can you please advise?
Very nice video......
what you think about change ball bearings to needle bearings hk0408?
I would think a needle bearing would work, I'd you can find the correct size and if it allows the shaft to be pulled out on a regular basis for maintenance.
hello I am looking for the perfect transmission for genesis 6s for 100km/h and + what would you advise me, thank you your videos are great, I learned a lot from you
I like your show
Thanks it's very helpfull
I am told you need (period) an offset rudder with a stinger and it needs to be at about same place (period) as the prop. Is that because it's difficult put the rudder in line and the arm needs to be very long? Is there a disadvantage to inline other then length? All boats I have are offset rudder and turn well but i would think that inline is the best because you steer the trust. I had for instance the idea for a new build to use a stinger with a very short rudderarm so you don't see it as much for scale looks, or a steerable strut. Something like that exists (MHZ Powerboats fake outboard with a flexcable, motor is in the hull) but is quite expensive and i don't know if it works well but i like the clean looks off that. There are almost no (really fast) boats with such a type off propulsion so i asume there's a reason for that. The thing is i really don't want to mess up the hull cause it's quite rare. And because off that i think that scale looks, and putting some extra nice quality stuff in it do it only right... Any ideas?
To be quite honest I'd have to actually see the boat and hardware that's going on it to give an honest opinion. I'd hate to STEER you in the wrong direction. "Pun intended "lol
Maybe you could try to Google it. Don't think MHZ(powerboats) is a brand thats common in States nor the hull (type hull hpr010). Maybe there's even something for your likings in the shop. It all quality stuff (in my opinion) for that matter but expensive. Also don't know if (for fake outboard) a 47 prop (max size) is big enough to push it to let's say 60mph. Its not heavy and wide so i would guess it should be good, but setup's infound were all 50+mm. But the blackjack42 for instance doesn't use such a big prop... Lot's of variabels... ;-)
I am interested in the TFL porsuit carbon and they offer it in 2 version with price difference, one with the stinger drive and the other with integrated drive, which one is more durable and better please? Thank you for video and sharing 👍🙏
I'd go with the stinger opposed to the integrated system, I've herd issues arise with the integrated stinger setup
@@IRONCLADRC thank you very much for your answer sir 👍 i will use it only on sea water, i hope all the aluminum parts will be ok with salt as i didn’t find a brand that has stainless steel to offer 👍🫡
I want to put the TFL stinger on the SonicWake
Hey man I have been meaning to ask if you have many problems with de-soldering bullets on hot days. Seems even with my buddies mx41 and my sonicwake being stock electronics they both if held at WOT will eventually pop a motor wire off the bullet. If I run one less cell count I can hold WOT as much as I want. This also happens on my shovelnose. Never had it happen on any of my Grounders Xmaxx, notorious, 12s felony so on, never on my planes or jets, and not on a single 700 heli 12s systems that drain a 5000 12s in 3 minutes. It's odd that boats put down this much load even in stock out of the box form. Any help is appreciated man. On the forums people just get mad and tell me I cant solder or that my setup is wrong lol. but a out of the box mx41 and sonicwake do it. Thanks in advance Sir!!
I've melted solder on many boats, factory or diy solder. I've been increasing the bullet size for more current flow thru the bullets. I've also noticed if the bullets are old or corroded, they tend to get hotter than a nice new fresh bullet.. also check the bullets to for fit.. you want a tight fitting connection
Basically try a larger bullet size that may help. I think the stock sonic wake bullet is 5mm so a 6.5 mm bullet should help current flow.
@@IRONCLADRC as usually didnt think of this and u are more helpful then anyone on multiple forums, and u admit it happens. They all look at me like oh mine never do that lol. Thanks again man for keepin it real.
There's a few things you can look at Proping down from pitch to site, if you drop of the plain often the hub of the Prop generates the most load, if you have a prop balincer you can adjust that part. With brushless if the esc is hot and motor cool it's over revving and if both is hot to high a load. But connectors do come in different quality iv manage to get some in a good alloy and thay stay cold hopefully give you something to work with in the right direction.
how many rpm for these transmissions
Guess as many rpm as you want to throw at them. Cheaper stinger/Struts may not take quite as many rpm as a name brand speed master strut
Fastest monos I’ve ever run had struts NOT stingers 😉