So. I am the owner and also sent the Fumoto valve. I changed jobs starting Monday from that commute to a much shorter one and plan my next change at 10k. Basic maintenance I do like oil changes and filters but I farm out bigger stuff to a local Pep Boys except the big one of plugs and etc. I plan a BG with them next oil change and they will let me scope it when I do that. Great people there. So there will be before and after on that. The Mobile One changes said 20k but I stuck with earlier change intervals from once I started after the first year of free changes and Mobil One said 15k miles. So plan on more from me sending things! Anyone want me to add in my used 2016 F250 6.7l with light use for weekends towing my boat? It was a fleet truck I got early in the pandemic at 115k or so. I do have an Edge III tuner on it but it is my toy I replaced my rusted out 2002 F250 7.3L with because rust was winning. Wife was in shipping so anything is sent proper per regs. I do IT but love wrenching when I can and maybe later can add my 1993 MR2 engine swap project if they ever fix my bad shoulder neglected due to covid.
Long story short, I was doing 10k oil changes with full synthetic (mixed driving,pennzoil), and switched to 7500 after pulling valve covers after 250k and finding small amounts of sludge in the divots of the heads. 97f150 w/ 285k 4.6l
When you changed your oil, did you remove the filter and drain it or did you not remove the filter. If you did remove the filter did you do anything to the filter to clean it out?
@@jimstand filter was removed and drained by placing it in the oil catch pan upside down during the whole change. What was left is normal in a "drained" filter unless you cut it or put drain holes in it. Otherwise every change gets a brand new filter that is rated to 20k miles.
@@FordBossMe i change oil/filter, every 3 months, regardless of miles,/ ks.. 351c. oil is a cheap mechanic. 351c is on lpg,only 12.1 comp. 302c heads. 14 yrs, still going. fast..bronco 82..
You doing right things, bro. I am change oil/filter 3000 miles, no more. After fifth changing put “flush” oil - cheap Quaker St. or Supertech semi-synt. 5w20 + Supertech Filter and wash engine. Immediately change oil and filter as I install usual.
I take a sample and look at viscosity and build up. My old 221,000 mile Nissan gets oil changed about every 2,000 miles for fresh additives. When my wife brought it into the marriage at 180,000 miles, chain was loud 🔊! Great oil changes, fresh additives, chain has quieted, and doing much better.
The main thing is knowing the driving conditions and the oil you use. It was rated to 20,000 miles and guaranteed for that with a Blackstone labs test confirming before that it was doing good. Mostly because I was doing well over 500 miles a week on the freeways and changing oil every month would be a bit extreme if I did 2k miles a month or even every month and a half. So I bought more expensive oil and a filter that cost twice as much but it was a guaranteed combo to last almost 7 times as long under the conditions I was driving. Considering the cost of gas and my job still being in person (military contractor) it was a significant savings. Now, when I found the shorter back way that included 6 miles of dirt road I cute it to 15k out of caution and still was better than the traffic jam that would have me sitting when things here opened up again. I do plan on a test next change and will scope the engine as much as possible. I may have the dealer take a few pictures with the scope when they do plugs soon. It should be interesting to see the results.
We have a 95 Grand Cherokee with the 4.0. We got it with 40k on it in 2000. At the time my father did service work in the Maryland,DC, Virginia and West Virginia area. He put a ridiculous amount of mileage on it. We were doing 2/3 oil changes a month. When Mobil first debuted the 15k oil, we switched to that their M1-301 filter. Even with that we were changing the oil once a month and the filter every 7,500 and topping off. It has 400k on it now, has been retired from daily service, it doesn’t use 1qt every 5k and other than a valve cover gasket has never been apart. Last time I did a compression test was at 350k and it was still at 150psi across the board.
I personally think the cleanliness of this is due to the long trips per day at highway speed , with the engine getting to temperature and staying there.
Been in auto repair since 69.and I have to say that Wix filters are by far the best I've seen. Highly recommend them. They are a little pricey but it's your car, you make the choice.
Your presentations are some of the best on UA-cam. Even though we do not agree about oil change intervals. The fact you that you made this video for us your viewers. Shows that you are a true automotive enthusiast. Not just some guy wrenching down at the dealer. Your home owner videos are pretty good too!
Years ago I worked for Wix at the time we made FOMOCO, NAPA, Volvo, Sears, and Wix. All the filters were the same except for the color, logo, and package. I still use Wix and NAPA filter because I know they are good even though they are not locally owned anymore. An oil change is a cheap maintenance item and is the life of an engiine so I stick to changing at 4K to 5K miles.
Quite the generalization and false. Premium NAPA and WIX XP are the same, others are likely run of the mill Wix. Big difference. WIX XP are seriously good filters thus the expense
I’m amazed at how good that filter looks! I think I would be very nervous going this long between oil changes! As the saying goes “oil is cheap and engines are expensive “ I think it needs a little updating “oil is relatively cheap “ still cheaper than a new engine! It’s still good to know that with good oil and a good filter it is possible to go that long between changes but I’m sticking with 5k changes good oil and filter. It’s just peace of mind for me. Thanks!
Yup that's my thinking as well. On some engines and driving conditions, oil may last longer, but I'm just doing mine 5k (4k on my m3 due to driving hard and e85) because at the end of the day, won't have to worry about the oil being broken down or diluted.
I've owned my 2016 Nissan Altima and use 5w30 full synthetic with the Mobil extended performance filter. Change every 5,000 miles. I've used Mobil 1. Walmart tech, Castrol, and Penzoil full synthetic oils. I believe I watched your review and thoughts on the Penzoil. (I think you did a review on the Penzoil full syn.) High regards for that product. Now looking at the Wix XP filter that's the one I'm going with from here on out. Thank you for the good video and great content on your channel!
Man, it is nice of you to do this exam. Very interesting. Thanks. Wonder what that air filter looks like? When I drove the big rigs I could find out who makes what by contacting the trucker hauling the product. When they tell you they are hauling filter x and they picked them up a plant for filter w it told you something. One actually told me half I haul out are one color and the others are orange.
Thanks for the vid - love it. I've got a turbo vehicle, so I'm going to stick with my 6 mo/5k interval with a synthetic product. Even after just 5k the oil is pretty black already.
His driving habits work well with extended drain intervals .He’s racking up mileage quick so his engine hours per mile are low. He’s in Florida and running 36-46 miles at a clip so the oil gets good and hot so no condensation issues. He’s using good oil and a good filter.I’d like to seen an oil analysis of the oil especially the silicon ,tbn and fuel dilution . Keeping his air filter and intake tract maintenance up is the key to long engine life in his situation on 6 miles of dirt road a day.
You're exactly right. As important as clean oil and a good oil filter are, it's equally important, to keep the intake air clean. Don't skimp on the air filter! Avoid the use of 'performance' filters as well. In order to be low restriction, they don't filter as fine dust as a good OEM type filter.
@@vincentrobinette1507 I have over 412k miles on my '97 Toyota 4 Runner. I used a K&N air filter on it after about the first year after I bought it. I had oil analysis done on it at different times. But each time the amount of silicon in it was well within the normal range. Sometimes I would leave the filter in for two years before cleaning it. The longest oil interval change intervals I did was 10k. That was done when I was commuting one way 25 miles each day to work. Right now it uses about 1/4 inch of oil based on the dipstick with a 5k miles interval.
I use this same wix filter on my 99 chevy blazer 4.3....along with 100% synthetic oil (costco /kirkwood ). I am a retired truck driver, and most of the companies I have worked for over the 38 years used with filters on all the trucks and seemed to get maximum mileage and service regardless of engine. I will continue using wix filters until I can't drive anymore.
Very nicely made filter. It would be interesting to see the results if he sent a 15k used oil sample into Blackstone. Those Subaru 2.5l have the filter mounted on the very top of the engine... that's a crazy amount of dirt/sand for filter mounted so high. I would be changing my air filter every time I change the oil!
@@SHOKona-wp4vr Good synthetic oil hasn't even reached it's peak performance at 3k, and oil analysis has demonstrated time and again that under 5k is just wasteful.
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Everyone does their own thing. I don't give a 💩about waste. I want to impact the younger generations as much as I can and do my part to leave them NOTHING. Weak a$$ snowflakes.
That oil and filter look pretty clean for a 15k OCI. Looks like this year Subaru does not have a direct injection fuel system. I would have liked to see an oil analysis report on the oil to see how well the oil holds up at this extended interval. Judging by the appearance of the oil and filter, it looks like this combination is doing its job. I wouldn't feel comfortable going that long between oil changes myself. As of late my driving habits are short trip with little highway travel.
I sent Blackstone a sample back about 2020 with the same combo and they said it was looking good and should last a few thousand more. I was not doing the dirt roads then so 50 miles each way and was using Annual Protection that said 20,000 miles but still done at 15,00k. Found the email and posted the oil test done by them with info about that test.
Hi Guys, In Germany we only change our oil once or twice a year. I have seen this for short trip cars and long trip cars. I personally have never lost a car due to engine failure, just rust. I think the additive package might be different? The oil costs much more than the US and is either full synthetic or hydro cracked. I have never seen Dyno oil used in cars. It is a very interesting topic. Thanks for doing this kind of stuff👍
I’ve heard about this. My brother moved to England and they did oil changes once a year as well and he took my US made Toyota with him. It still runs great now with 300k miles. He put about 100k miles while there and I think he mentioned the oil was much more refined. Maybe you’d be able to confirm that?
The best oil is still cheaper than a new engine. I run 5w-40 Castrol EDGE in my 2017 Elantra Sport. I'll be changing at 4k intervals, or twice a year, because it's about 70/30 City/Hwy driving. I changed it last time at like 3500 miles in 6 1/2 months.
@@tx4runner459 Fwiw, intil recently the fuel was more refined in Europe (less sulfur) which translated to less contamination of the oil ... or allows oil with different additive packages that don't get used up the same way as US engine oil.
The filter may look good, but I wonder what the flow rate would be through the medium. I've seen several filter that looked good but were plugged up and wouldn't let anything through. If you ever get a chance look at some used oil under a microscope you would be surprised how much metal is in it. It's tiny pieces but it is there.
Cool idea for a video. I'm glad you recorded it. This is all I use in my vehicles since 2007. I used to use Royal Purple but it got much too expensive. My changes are nowhere close to 15k intervals though 😳
It would be interesting to see a spectroscopic oil analysis of his oil. I have done this with Amsoil Signature Series oil on about five different vehicles. All of them were run between 85,000 and 110,000 miles. I never had any engine problems with any of the vehicles. ( Chevys and Fords) By looking through the fill caps in the valve covers there were no evidence of any sludge or even a coating of tan varnish. I never added any oil in any of them between changes and none were ever more than a half quart low on the dipstick. I sent two filters to another filter examining technician who posts on you tube. His followers criticized my 15,000 mile filter because it contained a minimal amount of black sludge within the fibers of the Amsoil filter. The other filter that I sent had only about 5,000 miles on it and was very clean. It actually could have ran at least another 5,000 miles, but I always replace oil filters when the oil is changed. I enjoy your videos and look forward to your technical expertise.
Some engines are easy on oil, some are very harsh. My Wife's 2.0L Ecoboost is pretty black at 4K. My old Taurus with the Vulcan V6 with over 300k on the clock would look great at 15,000 miles. The body was rusted out so I wanted it to die.
I totally agree with you about some engines are harder on oil. But it really goes harder than that. As in the case of your wife's Ecoboost. Turbo engines of any kind, require a different driving technique. Turbo engines need the oil and the turbo to be relatively cool when shut down. Otherwise the oil cokes up and gums everything up. The 3.0L Ecodiesel has had a rash of main bearing failures. Where gummed up oil prevents oil flow to the main bearings. I have an Ecodiesel in a '16 Ram 1500 4wd, with 163k miles that is just fine. I typically drove it 800 miles a week the first 4 years. 95% of those miles were highway. 10k oil changes like the owners msnual says. Gets Penzoil 5w30 Euro L, 5w40 Rotella, or 5w40 Mobil 1 Turbo truck, or a blend of any of the 3. Depending on what I have on hand. I have hardly driven it for the past 2 years. Due to 2 recalls that cautioned against driving it. Those recalls have been fixed. The 2020 Dodge Durango 3.6L does not have a turbo. And the Penzoil Ultimate oil looks very clean at 10k miles when it gets changed. 74k total miles so far.
With the dirt road driving I would almost be more worried about the air filter than the oil filter but I guess it is holding up. I have a 2021 Ford F-350 with the 7.3 gasser that gets about 2500 miles a month on it (I am paying for all of the Exxon kids to go to college, I know). After a couple of 2K initial oil changes, I am changing it every 4 to 6K miles but consistently finding the same oil now is a big problem. Started with Valvoline full synthetic because no Motorcraft in stock in the area, now no Valvoline but the last change was Motorcraft because it was back. Always run Motorcraft filters. Besides the first change the oil always looks almost new despite towing 15 to 20K pounds about 15% of the time. Should I break down and try to order a couple of cases of one oil to stay consistent and which one should I use (they both are about the same price). Not married to either of those oils but they seem to be the easiest to find other than the Costco synthetic. If the farm tractors did not require 15-40 I would just order a drum of the Shell T-6 full synthetic all engine oil, but the truck wants lighter oil. Any thoughts?
My experience...In 2010, I bought a used 2005 Ford E250 van with the original 5.4 liter engine and 345,000 mi. I had no exact record of the previous oil change history. The van was being used for contracted emergency freight pick and delivery from state to state. I used it for the same purpose, which was mainly highway driving. Often, I would get oil changes at Walmart and mainly used Mobil One Extended 15K oil and filter to cut down on the need for oil changes since I might drive 55-65K miles a year. I drove this van for another 5 years for work and kept it after retiring . I finally sold it in late 2018 with 725,000 miles and no major engine repairs. The engine was still running well. Often, I did need to add oil between oil changes...maybe 1-2 quarts as the engine got older. And yes, I did sometimes mix regular Mobil synthetic or other synthetic brands. This oil change schedule worked for me. It might need to be adjusted for more stop and go driving. But the Ford 5.4 liter was one of their best, I think.
Waoo 725k on 5.43v that the proof of oil change is the key for this engine I change my oil every 4k whit mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 but now i switch to pennzoil platinum full synthetic 5w30 because is cheaper for my situation right now the engine is still quite
I have a 2006 Buick lacrosse with 273000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3 to 4000 miles. When you check the oil it's still has a clear golden color. I love your tests.... But hate longer oil change intervals!
2003 Ford E250 van. 4.2 V6. Rolled it off the lot going on 20 years ago. After break in 500 miles changed with regular oil. Then 1500 change regular oil. Went 2500 then switched to mobile 1 changed every 5 to 6 g. At 100 g started getting lifter noise and started adding Lucas heavy duty oil conditioner. Noise went away van has 377000 miles. Hard miles. I'm a tile Contractor and always carrying weight. Original transmission too. I flush every 50000. Do your maintenance and they last
I think the 6.2L cooler "leak" I have is on the filter side and due to oil changes. There is also some dirt coating on the cooler lines. It currently has a Fram tough guard. I honestly can't say it is immaculate inside under the filler cap, but not horrible. I think the PO went by the computer OCI. It says 40% left now. I am going to put some seafoam before the next change. Next to fix is the tailgate latch. It came with an expensive roll cover, no fun opening it locked. I used an electrician snake.
That is a good looking combination - very good oil, well-maintained engine and an excellent filter. The oil doesn't appear to have degraded beyond its useful life.
I don't mean to poke, but there is no way you can tell how degraded oil is by watching a video unless it is a video of oil being tested for how degraded it is. Maybe how clean or dirty it Looks, but not its degradation characters.
I’m definitely curious to see who makes the Motorcraft filters now! Wix is now owned by Mann+Hummel and I think they’re a German company so I hope they keep wix’s great filters the same!
Pretty impressive that filter is as clean as it is. I’m in the same boat as you with the 5k interval. I wonder if that grit you felt in the oil was actually the dirt from the outside of the filter
Looks real dirty, I use Mobile 1 High Mileage oil and I change it every 5 thousand miles on my 08 Highlander with 217,000 miles and running strong. Thanks for the video. 👍🏻
All those highway miles are great for the engine. I change the oil/filter early, every 3,800-4,200 miles on my 2018 Civic EXT. After 106,800 trouble-free miles, I’m very happy with my vehicle.
I would also look at the whole purple filter as a better than wicks XP filter option. I’ve seen a lot of analysis done on them, and they look superior.
I ran mobile one fully synthetic in a Ford I bought new in 95. I put 15k miles before oil changes. I only used Ford or mobile one filters. Over 128k miles i put on that truck Never had any issues.
I've sometimes noticed metal shavings from manufacturing on the threads of NEW oil filters like cheap Fram, and others. Anyone else seen this? But it hasn't concerned me that much because other than 1 new engine, all my other engines have been old or high mileage and I've always maintained proper level of oil and oil changes every 3-5k and never had a problem in 40 years.
I have non turbo Ford engines and always change the oil per the cars built in oil monitor. I always use full synthetic oil and a good quality oil filter. The engines seem to be in great condition and my oil consumption is very low. I lose less than a quart over the oil change life. Do you have any opinion on the accuracy of the cars oil monitor?
Used to have family friend was a pilot for Flying Tigers named Richard. Richard had a Dodge D50 pickup with a propane conversion, he would only add oil when needed, and changed just the filter, believe he used Redline which has been around since the late 70's 80's. He never changed the actual oil.
I was a long distance commuter (65 miles each way) for 30 years and found that 10,000 mile oil changes with synthetic worked fine. Since retiring I don't exceed 5,000 miles or one year.
My outback 2.5 does about 5000 miles a year. Short journeys less than 7 miles to 15 with a long 50 journey to do shopping about once a month. I use the tokyo roki filter and subaru label oil and its amazing how dark the oil goes and with a petrol smell now I'm doing short journeys compared to before I retired and did 40000 miles a year on long journeys at 60 mph. I change always at 5000 and with my diesels every 3000.
Had a 94 Saturn that I ran on Synthetic oil and Bosch filters from early on. Oil change every 10,000 kms. 320,000 + kms I traded it and the engine was still like new. No issues.
@@FordBossMe I agree. For that car it was 90% highway kms. If there would have been more city and stop and go the interval between changes would be much shorter.
I’ve been looking for an alternative fuel filter set for a 6.4 powerstroke, (motorcraft been out of stock locally) people on forums say Parker racor makes the motorcraft filters so I don’t know if it would be the same for oil filters
I've watched a lot of oil filter tear downs and I have noticed that the Mobil 1 filters I've been using for a few years look exactly like Purolators. I'd be surprised if they weren't made by them.
Several years ago mobile bought the hard driver oil filter and the hard driver oil filter was a much better oil filter than it was when Mobil 1 took it over. However, it's still a decent oil filter. It just is not a hard driver oil filter. When I first started using the hard driver oil filter I would change the oil when it started getting dirty. And that didn't happen in my vehicle until I had 9875 miles on it regularly. That was not long before I bought the vehicle that I started changing oil on every 10,000 miles, and I sold that vehicle with $265,000 miles on it and that 98 Dodge Caravan was still getting 31 and a half miles to the gallon on the freeway. And using about a quart of oil every 6000 miles. And yes I would use the Marvel Mystery Oil for about a week before I change the oil just to keep make sure that the inside of the engine was kept nice and clean. And Marvel Mystery Oil is a must for any engine that has oil passage problems or hydraulically activated valve lash Adjusters.
Wix makes very good filters as rated by Consumer Reports, they manufacture filters for many companies including NAPA and many others. I have a friend who works at their manufacturing plant in Gastonia NC.
Back in the mid 90s I worked at champ labs sister company (Airtex). At that time champ made the service oil filters for Motorcraft. (I've personally been inside the factory and saw it myself)
Bonjour, What you guys think of the utility of a magnet on the oil filter or on the oil pan , I ' ve been using this for awhile but couldn't do an oil analysis,I have the opportunity to do it on my next oil flush. Also using magnets on rear end and transmission of my RAM. Tigo Will be happy to share.
My 06 CVPI has 230k and runs great. It's had Mobile 1full synthetic since 96k and I change it every 7500. I don't have to add anything at 7500 however, I might if it were 15k just never took it that far. Miles are 70% highway. That's probably why this cars oil looked so good due to the highway miles.
Yesterday, I did my oil change and I feel OK doing it every 10,000 miles with Purolator L14615 oil filter with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil. I also use the fumoto valve to make changing oil the cleanest when I attach a tube to the valve right into the oil pan. Later today, I will change the gear oil, trans oil, and the power steering fluid which I've done religiously every 30,000 miles. My 2010 Subaru forester has 420138 miles on it.
Ok I hope this doesn’t sound like a stupid question, but I’d like to learn more. When doing an oil change, does the oil drain plug need to be replaced each time or it’s gasket? I thought I saw something online about doing that, but it doesn’t sound right to me. Also how often “should” you change the oil filter, time/mileage?
I just use a Fumoto Oil Valve on all my vehicles. Sent one to Ford Boss Me and he liked it. Worth every penny if you do your own changes. I had a bad habit of forgetting to buy crush washers and would then have a small leak from too many uses of one and this solved that problem.
I bought a 15 dollar discount jug of m1 ep and I left it in a jeep 2.4 for a 6k mile winter run which is probably overkill on a non turbo but I want that jeep to run great at 200k miles not just good ....I do think a decent filter can go 10k esp if u change oil every 5k . I do not like the blanking fuel dilution, condensation and whatever else is swirling around in your engine in a long oci.
I'll stick with my normal 5,000 mile changes. My Tacoma and My Wife Hyundai XL SUV I don't do 5,000 miles in year on these two vehicles, so every 6 months I change it. But my Camry I average about 15,000 miles a year which I change the oil in my Camry every 5,000 miles. For my Toyota's I use TRD Oil filters and in my Hyundai Santa Fe XL I use the OEM filter. All of my driving is pretty much all highway, 65 to 75 MPH on the interstate too and from work. About 30 miles one way.
Noticed Mann-Hummel on the side, they're the filter manufacturer i think these days for some of the Motorcraft & Wix filters, brilliant products, OE supplier to Mercedes for the longest time. I swear by Mann-Hummel, even weighing a genuine Toyota filter vs the same from Mann-Hummel. It was almost 70g heavier !
Do you still recommend 5000 oil change interval on a ram 1500 5.7l now I go to work and its 21 miles everyday there and back 60 mph then only on weekends I go out of town thats 2 hrs and 21 mins away going 70 to 75 mph. I run amsoil signature serie with EAO11 filter.
As a kidder my old, 30 yr old racing buddies would change oil at 2000 to 3000 miles. Watching them check the dip stick was an education. A New pure white cloth. Set the engine 5 minutes. Slowly pull dip stick and wiping tube and stick all the way to top. Slowly aligning the dipstick and inserting fully. Then bringing it up and holding just above dots. Carefully moving into light, rocking and humming hmm hmm. Then feeling the texture after a good long sniff or three. More hmm, hmmz. Then nodding to us youngunz like sallrite. Then carefully guiding the stick back in fully. OCD is not genetic? May be catchy tho hoho!
I like to pull those filters apart. Get the media, stretch it out flat and let the oil drain so you can get a good look at it. See if anything is stuck in the media. It's not easy and you have to be careful. Lots of sheet metal around with sharp edges.
I don't have time for all that I have too much going on and too many people want things for me so that may be what you do but I don't have time for it I would have to start getting paid a lot more to be going out of my way like that for people
Many moons ago I switched to wix. Napa filters to be precise and recently went over to the platinum. Best filter you can buy. Or at least one of the best
Hey Rich I have a question unrelated to the video I have a 2006 f150 with a 4.2L and a P0340 trouble code camshaft position sensor, I tried to replace it and could not get it to budge even the slightest have you ever dealt with ones of these being stuck on? Corroded? And any tips on getting it out? I'd appreciate it.
Interesting video. Getting my oil change done tomorrow at the place were I work because I’m still on medical leave, normally I would do it myself. It was about 3400 miles since I personally did it last. I do synthetic oil changes only on the car.
I invested in a magnetic drain plug. I change the oil myself and there is almost nothing on the magnet. Of course there is a lot less iron in engines now.
Had an old GM 5.7 in my truck that never got oil changes after 100k miles, just topped it off with Mobile 1 syn because it leak so much . That thing was still running great at 500k when I sold it.
I change my oil when I can’t see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. Fifty five years doing it this way and never ever had an engine fail. Best oil is clean oil.
I change regular oil every 3000 miles, and synthetic every 4000 miles, I run amsoil and mobil 1. The filter looked good, oil analysis will tell the story of the life of the engine oil.
Posted an older one. Same commute but the 46 both ways since I didn't know the shortcut until later and a lot was during covid shutdowns so not needed to avoid traffic. Did the full 20k on Mobile One Annual Protection on that test though I pooched filling out that info on the form.
I definitely agree that 15k miles is definitely excessive. Presuming that it's mostly highway, that's pretty clean. I change my oil and filter(s) (fram tough guard and Castrol edge) every ~5k miles. The filter box states more miles between changes, but I'm weary on that regard. Ultimately, its a cheap service (Durango takes 7 quarts of oil, so not really, still a solid engine though :)) and my engines are pretty happy. :)
@@edwhitson9873 why? As long as you don't overstretch the miles per oil change, fram (and a good quality oil) will protect your engine as much as any other brand. I've been using fram filters (not the cheap cheap filter, but still) for over a decade and no harm has come out of it ('04 Durango w/ 175k miles, '03 galant w/ 200k miles, '05 Sebring w/ 151k miles, '98 grand am w/ 149k miles). :)
If the owner is really serious about understanding the oil he's using he should send a sample to one of the labs. They will tell him what condition the oil is at time of change. About its viscosity at that time, how much of it's additive package is left, and also what metals are present in the oil . Knowing what metals are present will help to determine if say the crank / rod bearings , rings etc are wearing .
I go 7500 miles before I change oil filter and oil, on my 7th gen Honda Accord on full synthetic. I have no engine problems although it does consume about 1 quart near the latter end of the oil change cycle.
Don't you think that if your car eats 1 quart of oil every 7500 miles, that you have a problem???? It's using oil... What does that tell you??? It is never going to get better...
Don't know about different manufacturers with the Mobil filter but I can tell you the quality of them has definitely changed as of late. The media seems cheaper and the glue job is much sloppier than it used to be. Something definitely changed with them and not for the better
I just got home from buying a Napa Gold and I’m pretty disappointed. Upon opening the box I noticed that the filter is now made in China, the price has almost doubled and it appears the anti-drainback valve isn’t made of silicone anymore. Probably going to order a bunch of Fl-910s’ before this gets too out of hand.
So. I am the owner and also sent the Fumoto valve. I changed jobs starting Monday from that commute to a much shorter one and plan my next change at 10k. Basic maintenance I do like oil changes and filters but I farm out bigger stuff to a local Pep Boys except the big one of plugs and etc. I plan a BG with them next oil change and they will let me scope it when I do that. Great people there.
So there will be before and after on that. The Mobile One changes said 20k but I stuck with earlier change intervals from once I started after the first year of free changes and Mobil One said 15k miles.
So plan on more from me sending things!
Anyone want me to add in my used 2016 F250 6.7l with light use for weekends towing my boat? It was a fleet truck I got early in the pandemic at 115k or so. I do have an Edge III tuner on it but it is my toy I replaced my rusted out 2002 F250 7.3L with because rust was winning.
Wife was in shipping so anything is sent proper per regs. I do IT but love wrenching when I can and maybe later can add my 1993 MR2 engine swap project if they ever fix my bad shoulder neglected due to covid.
Email me and I'll give you my home address and you can send the stuff to the house and I could do the reviews from home
Long story short, I was doing 10k oil changes with full synthetic (mixed driving,pennzoil), and switched to 7500 after pulling valve covers after 250k and finding small amounts of sludge in the divots of the heads. 97f150 w/ 285k 4.6l
When you changed your oil, did you remove the filter and drain it or did you not remove the filter. If you did remove the filter did you do anything to the filter to clean it out?
@@jimstand filter was removed and drained by placing it in the oil catch pan upside down during the whole change. What was left is normal in a "drained" filter unless you cut it or put drain holes in it.
Otherwise every change gets a brand new filter that is rated to 20k miles.
@@FordBossMe i change oil/filter, every 3 months, regardless of miles,/ ks.. 351c. oil is a cheap mechanic. 351c is on lpg,only 12.1 comp. 302c heads. 14 yrs, still going. fast..bronco 82..
I’ll stick with my 3000-4000 mile oil change interval…..I like getting under the vehicle and doing visible check on things while doing oil change.
Hope you got a rabbit foot too
You doing right things, bro. I am change oil/filter 3000 miles, no more. After fifth changing put “flush” oil - cheap Quaker St. or Supertech semi-synt. 5w20 + Supertech Filter and wash engine. Immediately change oil and filter as I install usual.
That inspection is important too. Out here in Australia, I see too many cars with low blinker fluid, thus no blinker operation 🙂
I take a sample and look at viscosity and build up. My old 221,000 mile Nissan gets oil changed about every 2,000 miles for fresh additives. When my wife brought it into the marriage at 180,000 miles, chain was loud 🔊! Great oil changes, fresh additives, chain has quieted, and doing much better.
The main thing is knowing the driving conditions and the oil you use. It was rated to 20,000 miles and guaranteed for that with a Blackstone labs test confirming before that it was doing good. Mostly because I was doing well over 500 miles a week on the freeways and changing oil every month would be a bit extreme if I did 2k miles a month or even every month and a half. So I bought more expensive oil and a filter that cost twice as much but it was a guaranteed combo to last almost 7 times as long under the conditions I was driving. Considering the cost of gas and my job still being in person (military contractor) it was a significant savings.
Now, when I found the shorter back way that included 6 miles of dirt road I cute it to 15k out of caution and still was better than the traffic jam that would have me sitting when things here opened up again. I do plan on a test next change and will scope the engine as much as possible. I may have the dealer take a few pictures with the scope when they do plugs soon. It should be interesting to see the results.
We have a 95 Grand Cherokee with the 4.0. We got it with 40k on it in 2000. At the time my father did service work in the Maryland,DC, Virginia and West Virginia area. He put a ridiculous amount of mileage on it. We were doing 2/3 oil changes a month. When Mobil first debuted the 15k oil, we switched to that their M1-301 filter. Even with that we were changing the oil once a month and the filter every 7,500 and topping off. It has 400k on it now, has been retired from daily service, it doesn’t use 1qt every 5k and other than a valve cover gasket has never been apart. Last time I did a compression test was at 350k and it was still at 150psi across the board.
Hey neighbor! I live in Harpers Ferry.
😁👍🏼
@@kellyc2425 Maryland here, one hour from you
Wow! Amazing!!!
The AMC designed 4.0 straight six is one of the longest lasting, most reliable engines ever made.
Awesome
I personally think the cleanliness of this is due to the long trips per day at highway speed , with the engine getting to temperature and staying there.
Imagine sitting at highway speed with very little load. 15k highway is prob same as 5k heavy city.
The gritty you felt with gloves was the 6 miles of dirt roads 🙂
Been in auto repair since 69.and I have to say that Wix filters are by far the best I've seen. Highly recommend them. They are a little pricey but it's your car, you make the choice.
They're good, I like Mahle, Wix, some Mann. Fram? just NO!!!
Your presentations are some of the best on UA-cam. Even though we do not agree about oil change intervals. The fact you that you made this video for us your viewers. Shows that you are a true automotive enthusiast. Not just some guy wrenching down at the dealer. Your home owner videos are pretty good too!
Tyvm
These style videos are awesome. I found you on the ram marvel update. Keep them coming! Let's clean these engines up!
Years ago I worked for Wix at the time we made FOMOCO, NAPA, Volvo, Sears, and Wix. All the filters were the same except for the color, logo, and package. I still use Wix and NAPA filter because I know they are good even though they are not locally owned anymore. An oil change is a cheap maintenance item and is the life of an engiine so I stick to changing at 4K to 5K miles.
Quite the generalization and false. Premium NAPA and WIX XP are the same, others are likely run of the mill Wix. Big difference. WIX XP are seriously good filters thus the expense
I’m amazed at how good that filter looks! I think I would be very nervous going this long between oil changes! As the saying goes “oil is cheap and engines are expensive “ I think it needs a little updating “oil is relatively cheap “ still cheaper than a new engine! It’s still good to know that with good oil and a good filter it is possible to go that long between changes but I’m sticking with 5k changes good oil and filter. It’s just peace of mind for me. Thanks!
Yup that's my thinking as well. On some engines and driving conditions, oil may last longer, but I'm just doing mine 5k (4k on my m3 due to driving hard and e85) because at the end of the day, won't have to worry about the oil being broken down or diluted.
That is one heck of a can opener. 🙂🙂
Another great video.
I've owned my 2016 Nissan Altima and use 5w30 full synthetic with the Mobil extended performance filter. Change every 5,000 miles. I've used Mobil 1. Walmart tech, Castrol, and Penzoil full synthetic oils. I believe I watched your review and thoughts on the Penzoil. (I think you did a review on the Penzoil full syn.) High regards for that product. Now looking at the Wix XP filter that's the one I'm going with from here on out.
Thank you for the good video and great content on your channel!
Absolutely perfect video thank you for the content!
Man, it is nice of you to do this exam. Very interesting. Thanks. Wonder what that air filter looks like? When I drove the big rigs I could find out who makes what by contacting the trucker hauling the product. When they tell you they are hauling filter x and they picked them up a plant for filter w it told you something. One actually told me half I haul out are one color and the others are orange.
Thanks for the vid - love it. I've got a turbo vehicle, so I'm going to stick with my 6 mo/5k interval with a synthetic product. Even after just 5k the oil is pretty black already.
His driving habits work well with extended drain intervals .He’s racking up mileage quick so his engine hours per mile are low. He’s in Florida and running 36-46 miles at a clip so the oil gets good and hot so no condensation issues. He’s using good oil and a good filter.I’d like to seen an oil analysis of the oil especially the silicon ,tbn and fuel dilution . Keeping his air filter and intake tract maintenance up is the key to long engine life in his situation on 6 miles of dirt road a day.
John, I would also enjoy seeing an oil analysis on that engine oil.
You're exactly right. As important as clean oil and a good oil filter are, it's equally important, to keep the intake air clean. Don't skimp on the air filter! Avoid the use of 'performance' filters as well. In order to be low restriction, they don't filter as fine dust as a good OEM type filter.
@@flyntmyrick6291 Just posted an older one of 20k miles and no dirt roads since I discovered the shortcut later.
@@vincentrobinette1507 I have over 412k miles on my '97 Toyota 4 Runner. I used a K&N air filter on it after about the first year after I bought it. I had oil analysis done on it at different times. But each time the amount of silicon in it was well within the normal range. Sometimes I would leave the filter in for two years before cleaning it. The longest oil interval change intervals I did was 10k. That was done when I was commuting one way 25 miles each day to work. Right now it uses about 1/4 inch of oil based on the dipstick with a 5k miles interval.
@@Rhaspun The additional dirt that may get through a K&N is insignificant, as you have proven.
I use this same wix filter on my 99 chevy blazer 4.3....along with 100% synthetic oil (costco /kirkwood ). I am a retired truck driver, and most of the companies I have worked for over the 38 years used with filters on all the trucks and seemed to get maximum mileage and service regardless of engine. I will continue using wix filters until I can't drive anymore.
Very nicely made filter. It would be interesting to see the results if he sent a 15k used oil sample into Blackstone. Those Subaru 2.5l have the filter mounted on the very top of the engine... that's a crazy amount of dirt/sand for filter mounted so high. I would be changing my air filter every time I change the oil!
Just posted an older test done with 20k but no off road route. I hadn't found out that shortcut yet.
Everyone has their own preferences for maintenance. I have always changed my oil at 3k even with Mobil 1. Good channel for information like this.
That's wasteful.
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k No, it's a layer of protection since the oil changes are cheaper than a new motor.
@@SHOKona-wp4vr Good synthetic oil hasn't even reached it's peak performance at 3k, and oil analysis has demonstrated time and again that under 5k is just wasteful.
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Everyone does their own thing. I don't give a 💩about waste. I want to impact the younger generations as much as I can and do my part to leave them NOTHING. Weak a$$ snowflakes.
Send me the old oil, I'll use it for another 5k.
That oil and filter look pretty clean for a 15k OCI. Looks like this year Subaru does not have a direct injection fuel system. I would have liked to see an oil analysis report on the oil to see how well the oil holds up at this extended interval. Judging by the appearance of the oil and filter, it looks like this combination is doing its job. I wouldn't feel comfortable going that long between oil changes myself. As of late my driving habits are short trip with little highway travel.
I sent Blackstone a sample back about 2020 with the same combo and they said it was looking good and should last a few thousand more. I was not doing the dirt roads then so 50 miles each way and was using Annual Protection that said 20,000 miles but still done at 15,00k.
Found the email and posted the oil test done by them with info about that test.
Hi Guys,
In Germany we only change our oil once or twice a year. I have seen this for short trip cars and long trip cars. I personally have never lost a car due to engine failure, just rust. I think the additive package might be different? The oil costs much more than the US and is either full synthetic or hydro cracked. I have never seen Dyno oil used in cars. It is a very interesting topic.
Thanks for doing this kind of stuff👍
I’ve heard about this.
My brother moved to England and they did oil changes once a year as well and he took my US made Toyota with him.
It still runs great now with 300k miles. He put about 100k miles while there and I think he mentioned the oil was much more refined. Maybe you’d be able to confirm that?
The best oil is still cheaper than a new engine. I run 5w-40 Castrol EDGE in my 2017 Elantra Sport.
I'll be changing at 4k intervals, or twice a year, because it's about 70/30 City/Hwy driving. I changed it last time at like 3500 miles in 6 1/2 months.
@@tx4runner459 Fwiw, intil recently the fuel was more refined in Europe (less sulfur) which translated to less contamination of the oil ... or allows oil with different additive packages that don't get used up the same way as US engine oil.
I agree with you that the design of drainback valve is superior.
The filter may look good, but I wonder what the flow rate would be through the medium. I've seen several filter that looked good but were plugged up and wouldn't let anything through. If you ever get a chance look at some used oil under a microscope you would be surprised how much metal is in it. It's tiny pieces but it is there.
Cool idea for a video. I'm glad you recorded it. This is all I use in my vehicles since 2007. I used to use Royal Purple but it got much too expensive. My changes are nowhere close to 15k intervals though 😳
It would be interesting to see a spectroscopic oil analysis of his oil. I have done this with Amsoil Signature Series oil on about five different vehicles. All of them were run between 85,000 and 110,000 miles. I never had any engine problems with any of the vehicles. ( Chevys and Fords) By looking through the fill caps in the valve covers there were no evidence of any sludge or even a coating of tan varnish. I never added any oil in any of them between changes and none were ever more than a half quart low on the dipstick. I sent two filters to another filter examining technician who posts on you tube. His followers criticized my 15,000 mile filter because it contained a minimal amount of black sludge within the fibers of the Amsoil filter. The other filter that I sent had only about 5,000 miles on it and was very clean. It actually could have ran at least another 5,000 miles, but I always replace oil filters when the oil is changed. I enjoy your videos and look forward to your technical expertise.
Some engines are easy on oil, some are very harsh. My Wife's 2.0L Ecoboost is pretty black at 4K. My old Taurus with the Vulcan V6 with over 300k on the clock would look great at 15,000 miles. The body was rusted out so I wanted it to die.
I totally agree with you about some engines are harder on oil. But it really goes harder than that. As in the case of your wife's Ecoboost. Turbo engines of any kind, require a different driving technique. Turbo engines need the oil and the turbo to be relatively cool when shut down. Otherwise the oil cokes up and gums everything up. The 3.0L Ecodiesel has had a rash of main bearing failures. Where gummed up oil prevents oil flow to the main bearings. I have an Ecodiesel in a '16 Ram 1500 4wd, with 163k miles that is just fine. I typically drove it 800 miles a week the first 4 years. 95% of those miles were highway. 10k oil changes like the owners msnual says. Gets Penzoil 5w30 Euro L, 5w40 Rotella, or 5w40 Mobil 1 Turbo truck, or a blend of any of the 3. Depending on what I have on hand.
I have hardly driven it for the past 2 years. Due to 2 recalls that cautioned against driving it. Those recalls have been fixed. The 2020 Dodge Durango 3.6L does not have a turbo. And the Penzoil Ultimate oil looks very clean at 10k miles when it gets changed. 74k total miles so far.
Turbos definitely stress/cook the oil compared to a non turbo engine
With the dirt road driving I would almost be more worried about the air filter than the oil filter but I guess it is holding up.
I have a 2021 Ford F-350 with the 7.3 gasser that gets about 2500 miles a month on it (I am paying for all of the Exxon kids to go to college, I know). After a couple of 2K initial oil changes, I am changing it every 4 to 6K miles but consistently finding the same oil now is a big problem. Started with Valvoline full synthetic because no Motorcraft in stock in the area, now no Valvoline but the last change was Motorcraft because it was back. Always run Motorcraft filters. Besides the first change the oil always looks almost new despite towing 15 to 20K pounds about 15% of the time. Should I break down and try to order a couple of cases of one oil to stay consistent and which one should I use (they both are about the same price). Not married to either of those oils but they seem to be the easiest to find other than the Costco synthetic. If the farm tractors did not require 15-40 I would just order a drum of the Shell T-6 full synthetic all engine oil, but the truck wants lighter oil. Any thoughts?
Awesome tool u have there for cutting the filter open. I always wondered what an oil filter looked like inside. Thanks for sharing.
My experience...In 2010, I bought a used 2005 Ford E250 van with the original 5.4 liter engine and 345,000 mi. I had no exact record of the previous oil change history. The van was being used for contracted emergency freight pick and delivery from state to state. I used it for the same purpose, which was mainly highway driving. Often, I would get oil changes at Walmart and mainly used Mobil One Extended 15K oil and filter to cut down on the need for oil changes since I might drive 55-65K miles a year. I drove this van for another 5 years for work and kept it after retiring . I finally sold it in late 2018 with 725,000 miles and no major engine repairs. The engine was still running well. Often, I did need to add oil between oil changes...maybe 1-2 quarts as the engine got older. And yes, I did sometimes mix regular Mobil synthetic or other synthetic brands. This oil change schedule worked for me. It might need to be adjusted for more stop and go driving. But the Ford 5.4 liter was one of their best, I think.
WOW... goes to show the use case matters huge. Stop and go driving is severe as compared to just steady freeway operation.
Waoo 725k on 5.43v that the proof of oil change is the key for this engine I change my oil every 4k whit mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 but now i switch to pennzoil platinum full synthetic 5w30 because is cheaper for my situation right now the engine is still quite
I have a 2006 Buick lacrosse with 273000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3 to 4000 miles. When you check the oil it's still has a clear golden color. I love your tests.... But hate longer oil change intervals!
I use the same wix xp filters on my fleet trucks. They seem to be pretty good.
excellent video, looks like the wix filter is doing a good job.
2003 Ford E250 van. 4.2 V6. Rolled it off the lot going on 20 years ago. After break in 500 miles changed with regular oil. Then 1500 change regular oil. Went 2500 then switched to mobile 1 changed every 5 to 6 g. At 100 g started getting lifter noise and started adding Lucas heavy duty oil conditioner. Noise went away van has 377000 miles. Hard miles. I'm a tile Contractor and always carrying weight. Original transmission too. I flush every 50000. Do your maintenance and they last
The Wix XP has excellent construction it's just a shame it only has 50% efficiency at 20 microns.
I think the 6.2L cooler "leak" I have is on the filter side and due to oil changes. There is also some dirt coating on the cooler lines. It currently has a Fram tough guard. I honestly can't say it is immaculate inside under the filler cap, but not horrible. I think the PO went by the computer OCI. It says 40% left now. I am going to put some seafoam before the next change. Next to fix is the tailgate latch. It came with an expensive roll cover, no fun opening it locked. I used an electrician snake.
That is a good looking combination - very good oil, well-maintained engine and an excellent filter. The oil doesn't appear to have degraded beyond its useful life.
It's OK oil and it's not anything to brag about but just OK at best
I don't mean to poke, but there is no way you can tell how degraded oil is by watching a video unless it is a video of oil being tested for how degraded it is. Maybe how clean or dirty it Looks, but not its degradation characters.
Good oil, filter and highway miles are allowing him to get lucky. I would still change it much sooner. 🙂🐶
I’m definitely curious to see who makes the Motorcraft filters now! Wix is now owned by Mann+Hummel and I think they’re a German company so I hope they keep wix’s great filters the same!
Pretty impressive that filter is as clean as it is. I’m in the same boat as you with the 5k interval. I wonder if that grit you felt in the oil was actually the dirt from the outside of the filter
It could have been either I don't know I didn't put very much thought into it
Looks real dirty, I use Mobile 1 High Mileage oil and I change it every 5 thousand miles on my 08 Highlander with 217,000 miles and running strong. Thanks for the video. 👍🏻
All those highway miles are great for the engine.
I change the oil/filter early, every 3,800-4,200 miles on my 2018 Civic EXT. After 106,800 trouble-free miles, I’m very happy with my vehicle.
I would also look at the whole purple filter as a better than wicks XP filter option. I’ve seen a lot of analysis done on them, and they look superior.
I ran mobile one fully synthetic in a Ford I bought new in 95. I put 15k miles before oil changes. I only used Ford or mobile one filters. Over 128k miles i put on that truck Never had any issues.
I've sometimes noticed metal shavings from manufacturing on the threads of NEW oil filters like cheap Fram, and others. Anyone else seen this? But it hasn't concerned me that much because other than 1 new engine, all my other engines have been old or high mileage and I've always maintained proper level of oil and oil changes every 3-5k and never had a problem in 40 years.
Any of these filters jow are cheap, I've seen crap from all makes and types of filters over the last year
It's not even a Fram only thing
I have non turbo Ford engines and always change the oil per the cars built in oil monitor. I always use full synthetic oil and a good quality oil filter. The engines seem to be in great condition and my oil consumption is very low. I lose less than a quart over the oil change life. Do you have any opinion on the accuracy of the cars oil monitor?
Used to have family friend was a pilot for Flying Tigers named Richard. Richard had a Dodge D50 pickup with a propane conversion, he would only add oil when needed, and changed just the filter, believe he used Redline which has been around since the late 70's 80's. He never changed the actual oil.
Wix xp is my go to filter, I also use Pennzoil platinum. I still retain a 5000 mile interval.
Thats one solid filter.Unfortunately not available here in Australia.
I was a long distance commuter (65 miles each way) for 30 years and found that 10,000 mile oil changes with synthetic worked fine. Since retiring I don't exceed 5,000 miles or one year.
My outback 2.5 does about 5000 miles a year. Short journeys less than 7 miles to 15 with a long 50 journey to do shopping about once a month. I use the tokyo roki filter and subaru label oil and its amazing how dark the oil goes and with a petrol smell now I'm doing short journeys compared to before I retired and did 40000 miles a year on long journeys at 60 mph. I change always at 5000 and with my diesels every 3000.
That WIX XP is a solid filter for sure.
Had a 94 Saturn that I ran on Synthetic oil and Bosch filters from early on. Oil change every 10,000 kms. 320,000 + kms I traded it and the engine was still like new. No issues.
Brian remember this just because I can doesn't mean I should it's not always the brightest way to approach things
@@FordBossMe I agree. For that car it was 90% highway kms. If there would have been more city and stop and go the interval between changes would be much shorter.
A lot of highway driving, 5000km oil change for me, short trips and horrible winter days in Canada here
I’ve been looking for an alternative fuel filter set for a 6.4 powerstroke, (motorcraft been out of stock locally) people on forums say Parker racor makes the motorcraft filters so I don’t know if it would be the same for oil filters
If ever you can do a video on VP 5W-30 and Castrol GTX 5W 30 I would love to see it what would be the difference
I've watched a lot of oil filter tear downs and I have noticed that the Mobil 1 filters I've been using for a few years look exactly like Purolators. I'd be surprised if they weren't made by them.
Several years ago mobile bought the hard driver oil filter and the hard driver oil filter was a much better oil filter than it was when Mobil 1 took it over. However, it's still a decent oil filter. It just is not a hard driver oil filter. When I first started using the hard driver oil filter I would change the oil when it started getting dirty. And that didn't happen in my vehicle until I had 9875 miles on it regularly. That was not long before I bought the vehicle that I started changing oil on every 10,000 miles, and I sold that vehicle with $265,000 miles on it and that 98 Dodge Caravan was still getting 31 and a half miles to the gallon on the freeway. And using about a quart of oil every 6000 miles. And yes I would use the Marvel Mystery Oil for about a week before I change the oil just to keep make sure that the inside of the engine was kept nice and clean. And Marvel Mystery Oil is a must for any engine that has oil passage problems or hydraulically activated valve lash Adjusters.
Very useful video with this guy requesting it. But also the analysis and 15,000 with the right oil filter. Maybe it’s not bad.
I kinda enjoy doing it. Good to know we can go over without having too much harm
Wix makes very good filters as rated by Consumer Reports, they manufacture filters for many companies including NAPA and many others. I have a friend who works at their manufacturing plant in Gastonia NC.
To EASILY CUT FILTERS OPEN I use a " panel cutter " on my air hammer. Does not leave any metal particles.....
Wix makes the Ford factory filters and the amsoil filters Purolator makes the Motorcraft filters and Mobil 1 filters
I'd try higher intervals on my 3800 series 2, but the 5.4 3v gets like 3-4k intervals lol. Oil is cheap enough that I like to change it often.
5.4 needs it changed
Good morning sir hope y'all have a wonderful Monday 😮
Back in the mid 90s I worked at champ labs sister company (Airtex). At that time champ made the service oil filters for Motorcraft. (I've personally been inside the factory and saw it myself)
Yeah I remember back then it was champ labs but hasn't been for years
What about other cars, like Toyota or Honda, is it ok to change 1 in 1 or 2 yrs, city driving using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?
Bonjour,
What you guys think of the utility of a magnet on the oil filter or on the oil pan , I ' ve been using this for awhile but couldn't do an oil analysis,I have the opportunity to do it on my next oil flush.
Also using magnets on rear end and transmission of my RAM.
Tigo
Will be happy to share.
I don't think it's a bad idea
My 06 CVPI has 230k and runs great. It's had Mobile 1full synthetic since 96k and I change it every 7500. I don't have to add anything at 7500 however, I might if it were 15k just never took it that far. Miles are 70% highway. That's probably why this cars oil looked so good due to the highway miles.
Well those 4.6 fords are well known for their reliability anyway.
Yesterday, I did my oil change and I feel OK doing it every 10,000 miles with Purolator L14615 oil filter with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil. I also use the fumoto valve to make changing oil the cleanest when I attach a tube to the valve right into the oil pan. Later today, I will change the gear oil, trans oil, and the power steering fluid which I've done religiously every 30,000 miles. My 2010 Subaru forester has 420138 miles on it.
5k max for me
@@FordBossMe Good words to live by!
exactly what I do except easy 7500 miles
@@FordBossMe complete waste on most engines with Blackstone
Ok I hope this doesn’t sound like a stupid question, but I’d like to learn more. When doing an oil change, does the oil drain plug need to be replaced each time or it’s gasket? I thought I saw something online about doing that, but it doesn’t sound right to me. Also how often “should” you change the oil filter, time/mileage?
Not unless it's damaged there is no reason to replace
I just use a Fumoto Oil Valve on all my vehicles. Sent one to Ford Boss Me and he liked it. Worth every penny if you do your own changes. I had a bad habit of forgetting to buy crush washers and would then have a small leak from too many uses of one and this solved that problem.
I bought a 15 dollar discount jug of m1 ep and I left it in a jeep 2.4 for a 6k mile winter run which is probably overkill on a non turbo but I want that jeep to run great at 200k miles not just good ....I do think a decent filter can go 10k esp if u change oil every 5k . I do not like the blanking fuel dilution, condensation and whatever else is swirling around in your engine in a long oci.
I'll stick with my normal 5,000 mile changes. My Tacoma and My Wife Hyundai XL SUV I don't do 5,000 miles in year on these two vehicles, so every 6 months I change it. But my Camry I average about 15,000 miles a year which I change the oil in my Camry every 5,000 miles. For my Toyota's I use TRD Oil filters and in my Hyundai Santa Fe XL I use the OEM filter. All of my driving is pretty much all highway, 65 to 75 MPH on the interstate too and from work. About 30 miles one way.
Noticed Mann-Hummel on the side, they're the filter manufacturer i think these days for some of the Motorcraft & Wix filters, brilliant products, OE supplier to Mercedes for the longest time. I swear by Mann-Hummel, even weighing a genuine Toyota filter vs the same from Mann-Hummel. It was almost 70g heavier !
Do you still recommend 5000 oil change interval on a ram 1500 5.7l now I go to work and its 21 miles everyday there and back 60 mph then only on weekends I go out of town thats 2 hrs and 21 mins away going 70 to 75 mph. I run amsoil signature serie with EAO11 filter.
As a kidder my old, 30 yr old racing buddies would change oil at 2000 to 3000 miles. Watching them check the dip stick was an education. A New pure white cloth. Set the engine 5 minutes. Slowly pull dip stick and wiping tube and stick all the way to top. Slowly aligning the dipstick and inserting fully. Then bringing it up and holding just above dots. Carefully moving into light, rocking and humming hmm hmm. Then feeling the texture after a good long sniff or three. More hmm, hmmz. Then nodding to us youngunz like sallrite. Then carefully guiding the stick back in fully. OCD is not genetic? May be catchy tho hoho!
I like to pull those filters apart. Get the media, stretch it out flat and let the oil drain so you can get a good look at it. See if anything is stuck in the media. It's not easy and you have to be careful. Lots of sheet metal around with sharp edges.
I don't have time for all that I have too much going on and too many people want things for me so that may be what you do but I don't have time for it I would have to start getting paid a lot more to be going out of my way like that for people
Many moons ago I switched to wix. Napa filters to be precise and recently went over to the platinum. Best filter you can buy. Or at least one of the best
Somehow this info makes me happy! Audi recommends a 15,000 mile oil change
Hey Rich I have a question unrelated to the video I have a 2006 f150 with a 4.2L and a P0340 trouble code camshaft position sensor, I tried to replace it and could not get it to budge even the slightest have you ever dealt with ones of these being stuck on? Corroded? And any tips on getting it out? I'd appreciate it.
I can ask questions at the shop....I have never worked on them really
Yeah I'm at a loss I don't want to have to cut it off or fool with the synchronizer
Interesting video. Getting my oil change done tomorrow at the place were I work because I’m still on medical leave, normally I would do it myself. It was about 3400 miles since I personally did it last. I do synthetic oil changes only on the car.
I invested in a magnetic drain plug. I change the oil myself and there is almost nothing on the magnet. Of course there is a lot less iron in engines now.
Good video bro
Had an old GM 5.7 in my truck that never got oil changes after 100k miles, just topped it off with Mobile 1 syn because it leak so much . That thing was still running great at 500k when I sold it.
yo ford boss...can you give an update on that safety recall on the new explorers and the subframe with the bolt issue Safety Recall 22S27
I change my oil when I can’t see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. Fifty five years doing it this way and never ever had an engine fail. Best oil is clean oil.
I change regular oil every 3000 miles, and synthetic every 4000 miles, I run amsoil and mobil 1. The filter looked good, oil analysis will tell the story of the life of the engine oil.
Wix makes srt filters also
Purolator makes the Ford/Motorcraft oil filters.
That vehicles oil looks very good but for me 15k intervals changes is a little to much. I don't go over 5 k on my car.
It's way over Subaru's 6k maximum oil change interval, but if it works good for him.
Boy would be cool to see the Blackstone report on that oil.
Posted an older one. Same commute but the 46 both ways since I didn't know the shortcut until later and a lot was during covid shutdowns so not needed to avoid traffic. Did the full 20k on Mobile One Annual Protection on that test though I pooched filling out that info on the form.
I definitely agree that 15k miles is definitely excessive. Presuming that it's mostly highway, that's pretty clean. I change my oil and filter(s) (fram tough guard and Castrol edge) every ~5k miles. The filter box states more miles between changes, but I'm weary on that regard. Ultimately, its a cheap service (Durango takes 7 quarts of oil, so not really, still a solid engine though :)) and my engines are pretty happy. :)
Quit buying fram
@@edwhitson9873 why? As long as you don't overstretch the miles per oil change, fram (and a good quality oil) will protect your engine as much as any other brand. I've been using fram filters (not the cheap cheap filter, but still) for over a decade and no harm has come out of it ('04 Durango w/ 175k miles, '03 galant w/ 200k miles, '05 Sebring w/ 151k miles, '98 grand am w/ 149k miles). :)
If the owner is really serious about understanding the oil he's using he should send a sample to one of the labs. They will tell him what condition the oil is at time of change. About its viscosity at that time, how much of it's additive package is left, and also what metals are present in the oil . Knowing what metals are present will help to determine if say the crank / rod bearings , rings etc are wearing .
Well this we know Dave lol
He wanted a visual bud
I run lots of oil analysis through a lab
But the lab doesn't show everythig
Just posted an older test from the first time I did a long interval change to see if it would be worth it. 20k on that sample.
Owner posted above that he does this and it comes back saying all is well.
Champion Labs manufactures Mobil 1 oil filters as well as Amsoil and Fram
Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator
I go 7500 miles before I change oil filter and oil, on my 7th gen Honda Accord on full synthetic. I have no engine problems although it does consume about 1 quart near the latter end of the oil change cycle.
Don't you think that if your car eats 1 quart of oil every 7500 miles, that you have a problem???? It's using oil... What does that tell you??? It is never going to get better...
What type of Mobil is it?
Don't know about different manufacturers with the Mobil filter but I can tell you the quality of them has definitely changed as of late. The media seems cheaper and the glue job is much sloppier than it used to be. Something definitely changed with them and not for the better
I find zero changes. Nice and heavy and Blackstone says its great
I just got home from buying a Napa Gold and I’m pretty disappointed. Upon opening the box I noticed that the filter is now made in China, the price has almost doubled and it appears the anti-drainback valve isn’t made of silicone anymore. Probably going to order a bunch of Fl-910s’ before this gets too out of hand.
Doesn't champ make WIX filters?
I'll do an oil change every 5k to 6k miles, today's oil can handle a bit more but 15k is overkill
5k max
I replaced the oil drain plug with a valve & with that oil changes are so easy I don't even need to wear gloves.
Same here