When I was a young hunter in MT an old man who was my mentor suggested that I load and cap my revolvers, then add some light non-petroleum grease to the edge of the caps to seal it to the nipple. Not very much or I'd risk fouling the cap. Since that worked so well in the rain and snow, and that the guns were for defense only, I switched to fingernail polish as a sealant. I also employed this method on my Hawken 54 and Zouave 58. I never had a misfire, even after falling in a rushing creek. Of course, I used tallow or bore butter for extra sealing and fouling mitigation. The best thing a shooter can do is keep the revolver in the holster with the flap closed until it is absolutely required to draw it--or stay home by the fire when the weather is bad. :)
One thing I always enjoy from this channel is the commitment to results, not story. This isn't the first time you didn't get the result you were expecting/hoping for, yet you still post the videos. I very much appreciate the honesty there, it's something you don't get often on the internet.
Good experimental video. I'm French and I've read an old cap and ball instruction (1870 Franco-Prussian war, even though cartridge revolvers existed) for French soldiers stating they should put grease around the nipples in order to protect the cylinders from the rain and moisture in case of long period of loading without shooting.
The reasons the revolvers so often failed to fire is due to percussion caps being extremaly vulnerable to moisture. If you recapped the chambers after failure to fire I am confident they would go off most of the time. The Starr discharged first, second and sixth chambers. That is thanks to a top strap providing protection from water to these chambers. Colt is an open top design and thus percussion caps were not protected by anything. Old timers used to use a beeswax to seal the front and rear end of the cylinder. If applied properly, the beeswax provides almost 100% protection from moisture and thus guns weatherproofed this way are no less reliable than your average rimfire arm.
Here is an observation I came across; Colt put out a work in 1855 illustrating that the cones should be waxed on the sides, so that when the cones are capped, it will form a water tight seal with a properly fitted cap. Outstanding video. I really enjoyed it. Good to see a fellow Arizonan out doing this.
Still, historically the use of caps was a determining factor in the increasing weapon superiority of European forces fighting local tribes. It was noted by the East India units that cap modified muskets gave them the edge over the burmese tribes that had stalled them for many years on the Assam frontier. The old flintlock were more or less useless in the humid weather and definitively in the Monsoon season.
I have heard of beeswax on the chamber mouth and over the primers to keep revolvers loaded for extended periods. Such a practice may aid in waterproofing the primers until ready for use.
I expected both to do much better. The flintlock was a tremendous leap forward in reliability, which greatly contributed to the shift from pike and shot formations to firearms. Great content Karl, thank you.
Thank you for stressing proper projectile size and the fact that wads are a modern invention. Flintlock users did have some ideas back in the day, but good demonstration. Modern caps arent as thick as vintage caps either. Lubricated wads will contaminate the powder over time, typically from my experience inside of a couple of days. The lube will also contaminate the caps after a week or so from my experience as well. Flintlock rain protection involve things like beeswax on the stock shelf against the barrel to divert water, and a "cows knee" to cover the lock.
If you haven't tried black powder shooting you really need to. Shooting modern guns is fun, but black powder guns are probably even more so. They're not hard to load, shoot or maintain at all, but they are different than cartridge firearms which is why some people are intimidated.
Priceless for us who writes or play dnd, where those guns are! Thanks a lot, it's appreciated! Any chance for more videos oriented on those old guns in historical context and everyday reality of carrying and using them? You know, some basic 101 on how to write them realistically/realistically evaluate players actions...
I’ve had good success shooting my REM new model army in the rain when you push the Percussion caps deep onto the nipple with a wooden dowel. Forcing the priming compound to be flush with the flash hole
I thought Karl was on a dirt backroad at the end until patches of pavement with center stripes started showing up, terrible road conditions is an understatement!
On patches: at 6:20 the Colt instructions say to load "without wadding or patch." The normal way of interpreting an instruction like that is that some people were indeed using wadding or patches, and Colt wanted them to stop. So it's evidence of practice that differed from the official way of doing things. It seems it's irrelevant to the question of how reliable percussion revolvers were in the rain, but there it is.
Living here in Arizona as well, I've said for years I understand why various cultures did rain dances. There is times I can't even remember the last rain. Sometimes I want it so bad it hurts.
Every time I went to a pyrotechnic convention in Lake Havasu around Valentine's Day it rained cats and dogs at least once out of the 3-4 days we were there|!
I don't know how historical it was but I did see someone mention in an article that people would drip a bit of candle wax on the percussion cap to waterproof the gap.
16:00 I'd like to see Karl recap the chambers that didn't fire to is if that's the weak link... 19:37 reprimes flintlock, doesn't reprime/recap percussion... I am teh dissapoint. Still a good show and good info. thanks Karl
Did you try recapping the unfired charges? That would have verified that the powder was still good. Did you crimp the cap? I seem to remember being told that crimping the cap was important to keep water out, but that also may have been cap-and-ball apocrypha. I wonder if the top strap helps deflect the water a little, as well. Neat video.
Crimping the cap would have actually made it worse. Squashing the cap will bend it into an oval shape, making a tighter fit on 2 sides, but opening it up on the other 2, unless it's a proper crimp as you would a cartridge bullet, but I've never ever seen a percussion cap crimper that crimps as a reloading press would.
This is what I came to say, he should've tried recapping the chambers that didn't fire. I don't know if it would have changed much, but it's worth a shot. Makes me want to drag out my 1856 Navy and try this myself.
my theory about why the colt didn't function as well as the star is because the back of the cylinder is more covered by the frame. The back of the colts entire cylinder is pretty much exposed which lets the water into your caps.
This was great. Historical practicality. Often wondered about about the effects of rain. Much more real world than being dunked in a load of mud. Thanks for your work.
This was a very interesting video and experiment. It is hard to watch how casually you poured water on your guns, but the insight that it brought really gives a good perspective on how it was with these weapons back in the day.
I bought a .44 cal percussion colt replica, made by pietta, on a lark. It has since become one of my favorite guns to shoot. I've found 20 grains of pyrodex and a .454 cal ball to be both reasonably powerful and accurate, and not overly stressful to the brass frame. Great video
That is exactly what I expected, I remember the first time I took my BP revolvers to the range on a rainy day and figured they would perform as normal. They proved me wrong immediately. One thing I will say I changed out the caps at the range and every round fired perfectly right afterwards. If I left the caps on for any amount of time in the rain they would not ignite. Great video! I've never seen that test performed.
You definitely showed me how a percussion revolver seals. I always wondered about that issue. On your 2nd it actually fired all rounds because you fired one round before dousing with water. That is unless it has a 7 round chamber. Well done
THIS is why I love InRange & Karl - he had an hypothesis but his experiment proved it at least partially wrong. Yet he unashamedly posts the content as is rather than either faking it or just not posting the video at all. Fantastic (as ever) video.
This is interesting. I've loaded and fired my Remington revolving carbine in a hard rain, and had very little trouble with it. Out of 30 shots, I had 2 misfires. Both chambers fired after recapping.
One thing you always have to be careful with when dealing with historical sources. Sometimes when you have a document that says "Don't do X.", that's because people actually were. And the inverse of course.
And some advice from the gunmen of the day ......well, was not listened to. Even Wyatt Earp forgot his own advice. There was a minor incident he caused. He once advised a Eastern tenderfoot to only load five, with hammer resting on empty chamber. But during one faro game, HIS revolver somehow fell out , hit the floor and gun fired off a wild round, but no one was hit !
Another thing I remember hearing ( can’t recall where ) was that reloading your pistol every morning was common place . The thought being humidity would effect the guns reliability.
@@schottiey although it never made sense to me , because isn’t the powder and primers in the same humid air that gun is ? What about loading them in the cylinder makes that a thing ?
Wild Bill Hickok was rumored to reload his guns every morning. Saying that when I was re-enacting, we had blank charges, and would just re-cap our guns in the morning and toss our old caps in a pot of boiling water.
Just wanna say, given your message at the end of the video. I always appreciate these videos man. Your passion for history and weapons really shows, it's always a joy tuning into these!
that single shot pistol looks cool as hell, keep up the commitment to black powder Karl! I can only expect wheellock would have similar results, would be an interesting experiment! I would also imagine the spencer carbine would probably run worse in weathered conditions? Who knows
could some grease or beeswax help seal between the caps and the nipple or would the risk of clogging the fire hole be to great. Also mercury fulminate used to be the standard priming compound but these days potassium chlorate mixtures are more preferred and could have an effect on water resistance.
I don't think that modern primers use potassium chlorate either as it is corrosive. My understanding is that the most common early priming compounds were actually a mix of the two, trying to ballance out the pros and cons. I would be surprised if modern primers used either, as one is made from mercury and destabilises over time, whilst the other is corrosize. It is probably some safer, cleaner alternative.
@@commando552 fulminate of mercursy is as - or worse - corrosive than potassium chlorate. The misconcepton that you must clean a black powder arm instantly after firing is due to the use of fulminate of mercury as priming compound which indeed rusts the gun almost instantly. Remington advertises their caps as not corrosive so they must use something else. You can clean a black powder fouling up to 48hrs after firing with no permament damage to the gun. Under serious humidity minor surface rust may occur. In a dry envoirment no significant rust should appear up to 48 hrs from black powder fouling only.
@@franklinAll8735 It is from wikipedia so suspect as all hell, but to quote from there "Mercury fulminate has the distinct advantage over potassium chlorate of being non-corrosive, but it is known to weaken with time, by decomposing into its constituent elements." It doesn't really matter if one or both are corrosive, as the standard compound was a mix, comprising three parts potassium chlorate, two parts mercury fulminate, and normally one part powdered glass for extra friction. Only very early were caps pure Mercury fulminate (I think predating them being in a copper cup), so pretty much all historical use of caps and how you need to deal with their corrosive after effects will be in relation to the mixture above.
A tiny bit of lard/lube over the primers makes a HUGE difference. -- Putting lard/lube over the primers AND over the ball, and you'll be able to submerge the gun entirely.
@@kevinwestermann1001 "A drop or two of wax, or a q-tip with Vaseline". on the capped nipple. Vaseline not as good except in cold. Another thing is bore grease and I carry a small tube of that. Most all Carl's misfires only clicked meaning the caps did not go off, you can hear the difference between a dud cap and wet/no powder load.
Your videos on black powder weapons have been extremely interesting and educational. It’s nice to get a feel for what life was REALLY like instead of how the movies and pop culture portray it. I hope there’s a lot more to come!!
I enjoy hunting with black powder revolvers and where I live is a very wet environment. One trick my grandfather taught me, was to use bore butter (or back in the day tallow), as a water repellant. Smear over the chambers and around the caps to prevent water from getting to the powder or priming compound. I have no idea if this is a documented method but it has been passed down in my family for a few generations. A leather holster goes a long way as well. Thanks for the video as always!
I think that the Starr’s “overhang” over the caps is simply protecting the caps…😶. Direct exposure to the rain over the caps is probably the decisive issue. 😶
I read that people who needed to carry cap and ball would coat the cylinder in wax or tallow to prevent water ingress. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I'm likewise surprised by this result. Would a different varietal of percussion cap make a difference? I'm not familiar with the ins and outs of percussion-cap firearms.
Not familiar with percussion caps, but oil and grease does not play well with primer compounds. In fact one of the primers I used to buy stated that to deactivate them drop them into oil. That was years ago, so maybe its still true maybe not.
Excellent test, thanks for doing it. At face value: “of course it won’t work” Upon pondering: the only access is the cylinder and the cap. Both are tight so, it SHOULD work. Reality: very surprising, now I’m wondering why it didn’t work.
seems the star with its large top strap might be helping protect against water ingress very cool, and yeah one would think the caps would be far better at protecting from water than seen. Good stuff and love seeing historical guns being experimented with to show how far the technology of slinging lead has come haha
Excellent video. I enjoy seeing experiments with unexpected results. This kind of result adds more knowledge than one that fits the hypothesis or predictions. Thanks!
Superb ! Excellent Video, one of best I've seen ! Very well done to demonstrate how weather fouled up percussion arms. Unique and well done . I learned something I can use for my own shooting AND writing, as I write Civil War and Old West historical novels ! I loved this ! (Staff Sgt. Nam combat vet, USMC/USAF/ARNG) THANK YOU ! Impressive !
Nice video. I like how you acknowledged your hypothesis was incorrect and just accepted it instead of trying to hide it or change the results. Love your videos Karl keep it up man.
Years ago I had an Italian reproduction 1860 Colt. My first day out on the range I experienced a “chain fire” incident involving the chamber next to the one being fired (my last two unfired loads in the cylinder). Another shooter at the range that day suggested that I use a small dab of Crisco shortening on top of the ball to help seal the load. This would both help prevent another chain fire incident and also help deter moisture intrusion from contaminating the black powder charge. This remedy seemed to work as it never chain fired again. I never tried to seal the caps with Crisco, though I think this probably would have been a smart precautionary measure to help increase the reliability of the weapon.
Carl absolutely love content like this never cease to amaze me the different things that you come up with to talk about and always always it very interesting even if it's something I don't really know much about or something that I never thought really would be interesting but you put things in words and describe stuff so well that instantly you have me hooked and I wish some of these segments were longer especially when you do the history ones when you go to towns of Old West and explain how important this town was because of these outlaws and all the Western stuff absolutely love it I can tell that you do too which makes the content you do want it that much more interesting thank you truly really really do appreciate all you do for this channel and a shout out to all the patreon to help too.
I have been shooting these for 20 years. I have had misfires in the rain, but only very slightly more than the odd misfires that happened dry. I once had my repro 1858 Remington in my hip out mountain hunting, fell through ice on a pond into water up to my shoulders. It must have been completely submerged for a minimum of 3 minutes. Once clear of the freezing water I pulled it not expecting much. It surprisingly emptied all 5 shots I had loaded without so much as a hang fire. I always made sure to have a good fit between nipple and cap. I also make sure to REALLY press the cap on with enough force to slightly expand the crimp around the outside of the cap perceptively. Your results may vary, but in wet conditions I can usually count on any of my revolvers to go off 5 out of 6 times. I may have to recap the one a 2-4 times, but the last has always gone off too. Just remember that they are PERCUSSION caps. Steady, firm pressure will not set them off unless defective. That being said, always point in a safe direction just in case, but they should only go off if struck. Now if I could just get my muzzle loading rifle to be that reliable…
This was a good few years back now, but on my Remington (which as a bit more of an enclosed nipple than the colts), I used to grease the cylinder as you've probably done before, then cap and grease around the cap. Just a ring, you still wanted the head of the cap exposed. It was messy, but pretty much guaranteed good ignition.
A touch of gulf wax sealing the caps and the cylinders works a treat. I use a bit of gulf wax on top of the ball and also a bit in each priming cap. Never had a failure. Even my .454 single shot boot gun w a folding that gets carried everyday strapped onto my boot and I have never had a single issue with a misfire. Also I use CCI #11 caps. Never a single misfire
When experiments don’t do what you expect, that’s when you learn stuff.
These result totally show how they ended up with those huge flap holsters.
If you properly seal the chambers and nipples wth beeswax, these guns are as reliable as rimfire ammunition.
@@franklinAll8735 Respectfully, How would one seal the nipple end? thx in advance.
@@Curtislow2 you lather the cap in wax or grease once it's seated to keep water off
@@moomeansmooable That was how I suspected it was done. But would the wax have detrimental affect on subsequent reloading?
@@moomeansmooable I could see the detonation of the cap blowing off most of the wax,regarding reloads.
When I was a young hunter in MT an old man who was my mentor suggested that I load and cap my revolvers, then add some light non-petroleum grease to the edge of the caps to seal it to the nipple. Not very much or I'd risk fouling the cap. Since that worked so well in the rain and snow, and that the guns were for defense only, I switched to fingernail polish as a sealant. I also employed this method on my Hawken 54 and Zouave 58. I never had a misfire, even after falling in a rushing creek. Of course, I used tallow or bore butter for extra sealing and fouling mitigation. The best thing a shooter can do is keep the revolver in the holster with the flap closed until it is absolutely required to draw it--or stay home by the fire when the weather is bad. :)
Would greasing the ball also improve water resistance?
@@twistedyogert Yes or maybe some kind of sealant that's not too slick. Still want that compression.
Small pistol primers inside a small piece of pvc tubing on my remington new model army is very reliable with the rain.
I was just wondering why no one’s ever mentioned sealing the caps with grease or something! Thank you!
Will the bore butter melt in hot weather?
0:53 "I cant call the rain down on command here, in Arizona"
Arizona is the only state in US protected from Karl' weather magic CONFIRMED
Well... technically it's just his word... He still could, but chose to lie about it...
Also, note that he only said he couldn't call the RAIN down. Didn't rule out fire, lightning, tornados, frogs etc
@@stoicshield HE'S TOO POWERFUL, HE CAN'T BE CONTAINED.
he is lulling us into a false sense of security. we are being taken for fools.
Meanwhile in the UK "Rain? Just wait till after lunch..."
One thing I always enjoy from this channel is the commitment to results, not story. This isn't the first time you didn't get the result you were expecting/hoping for, yet you still post the videos. I very much appreciate the honesty there, it's something you don't get often on the internet.
i concur
I like how he says, i am expecting this but when he isnt correct, he will own it. As a scientist, this happens alot but the results are the results
Ahhhh! true science.
the content i wanted but didn’t know i needed. thanks karl!
Agreed. Karl talks about stuff ignored by almost anyone else.
Indeed!
When you're crafting black powder SMGs to kill super mutants and deathclaws you'll thank him even more
I think you got that backwards
K keep me posted
Good experimental video. I'm French and I've read an old cap and ball instruction (1870 Franco-Prussian war, even though cartridge revolvers existed) for French soldiers stating they should put grease around the nipples in order to protect the cylinders from the rain and moisture in case of long period of loading without shooting.
The reasons the revolvers so often failed to fire is due to percussion caps being extremaly vulnerable to moisture. If you recapped the chambers after failure to fire I am confident they would go off most of the time.
The Starr discharged first, second and sixth chambers. That is thanks to a top strap providing protection from water to these chambers. Colt is an open top design and thus percussion caps were not protected by anything.
Old timers used to use a beeswax to seal the front and rear end of the cylinder. If applied properly, the beeswax provides almost 100% protection from moisture and thus guns weatherproofed this way are no less reliable than your average rimfire arm.
Would be interested to see the beeswax in practice.
@@Prowbar here: watch?v=NEGdt9KXcbI
Bear grease or bees wax to seal caps and chambers.....
The modern solution is Crisco....use it as patch lube also.....🤠
@@spaceman624 Yes Animal fat was used usauly bear fat but it did tend to get ranchid.
@@robertfoote3255 Crisco works if it isn't to hot and humid it tends to get runny .
Here is an observation I came across; Colt put out a work in 1855 illustrating that the cones should be waxed on the sides, so that when the cones are capped, it will form a water tight seal with a properly fitted cap. Outstanding video. I really enjoyed it. Good to see a fellow Arizonan out doing this.
The mud test has evolved into the much more civilized water test.
Never thought I'd see Hubert Cumberdale, a real boy, here on Inrange
@@tastychunks I get around
ok, now I wanna see mud-testing for blackpowder firearms... thanks
Next month: Will an M1 Garand function after being Mesquite smoked?
Hubert Cumberdale is that you?
Karl, you're falling on my head like a memory; falling on my head like a new emotion.
he can't call down the rain on command in Arizona.
in Ohio it usually works though.
We see the sun almost three times a year!
I live in Arizona and I seem to be able to cause rain by washing my car.
I find that setting up a campsite will almost always call down the rain.
@@jr416de Yea, that and washing my car :-).
Still, historically the use of caps was a determining factor in the increasing weapon superiority of European forces fighting local tribes. It was noted by the East India units that cap modified muskets gave them the edge over the burmese tribes that had stalled them for many years on the Assam frontier. The old flintlock were more or less useless in the humid weather and definitively in the Monsoon season.
Always love InRange black powder content!
I have heard of beeswax on the chamber mouth and over the primers to keep revolvers loaded for extended periods. Such a practice may aid in waterproofing the primers until ready for use.
Would love to see that experiment next! Does this hearsay have merit, or is it assumption and intuition.
I see you are a man of culture with the Eurythmics lyrics. ;)
I am extremely cultured.
@@InrangeTv like a finely aged milk
@@hermatred572 that was a really cheesy joke...
@@gavindavies793 I’ll give a curdesy laugh
@@octopussmasher2694 yoghurt a great sense of humour
I expected both to do much better. The flintlock was a tremendous leap forward in reliability, which greatly contributed to the shift from pike and shot formations to firearms.
Great content Karl, thank you.
Thank you for stressing proper projectile size and the fact that wads are a modern invention. Flintlock users did have some ideas back in the day, but good demonstration.
Modern caps arent as thick as vintage caps either. Lubricated wads will contaminate the powder over time, typically from my experience inside of a couple of days. The lube will also contaminate the caps after a week or so from my experience as well.
Flintlock rain protection involve things like beeswax on the stock shelf against the barrel to divert water, and a "cows knee" to cover the lock.
The more I watch this black powder content, the more accessible and interesting it seems. Thanks Karl!
If you haven't tried black powder shooting you really need to. Shooting modern guns is fun, but black powder guns are probably even more so. They're not hard to load, shoot or maintain at all, but they are different than cartridge firearms which is why some people are intimidated.
Priceless for us who writes or play dnd, where those guns are! Thanks a lot, it's appreciated! Any chance for more videos oriented on those old guns in historical context and everyday reality of carrying and using them? You know, some basic 101 on how to write them realistically/realistically evaluate players actions...
I’ve had good success shooting my REM new model army in the rain when you push the Percussion caps deep onto the nipple with a wooden dowel. Forcing the priming compound to be flush with the flash hole
now I'm singing the eurythmics all day
Yeah, me too 😅
Here comes Karls watering can again
Falling on my pistol like a misery….
I'm not sure it would make a difference. But something to bear in mind is that original period caps were more volatile than new "safety" caps.
I thought Karl was on a dirt backroad at the end until patches of pavement with center stripes started showing up, terrible road conditions is an understatement!
On patches: at 6:20 the Colt instructions say to load "without wadding or patch." The normal way of interpreting an instruction like that is that some people were indeed using wadding or patches, and Colt wanted them to stop. So it's evidence of practice that differed from the official way of doing things. It seems it's irrelevant to the question of how reliable percussion revolvers were in the rain, but there it is.
Karl’s out here answering the questions I didn’t know I even had yet.
I love this kind of historical experimentation. Thanks Karl!
Living here in Arizona as well, I've said for years I understand why various cultures did rain dances. There is times I can't even remember the last rain. Sometimes I want it so bad it hurts.
Opposite down here in the swamp. We need an anti-rain dance!
Oregon here. We miss the rain bad right now, too.
@@m0nkEz Just take a magic watering can above your head.
Every time I went to a pyrotechnic convention in Lake Havasu around Valentine's Day it rained cats and dogs at least once out of the 3-4 days we were there|!
My town's weather ranges from 5°F to 104°F (in the last four years that is) and not raining for three weeks to 4 days of consecutive raining.
An interesting one for UK shooters for sure. Percussion revolvers are common here, and unfortunately so is the rain!
Agreed
I don't know how historical it was but I did see someone mention in an article that people would drip a bit of candle wax on the percussion cap to waterproof the gap.
16:00 I'd like to see Karl recap the chambers that didn't fire to is if that's the weak link...
19:37 reprimes flintlock, doesn't reprime/recap percussion... I am teh dissapoint.
Still a good show and good info. thanks Karl
Did you try recapping the unfired charges? That would have verified that the powder was still good. Did you crimp the cap? I seem to remember being told that crimping the cap was important to keep water out, but that also may have been cap-and-ball apocrypha.
I wonder if the top strap helps deflect the water a little, as well. Neat video.
to a degree it does, but I too wish he'd recapped the percussions.
I was hoping he'd try new caps as well. Maybe if he notices this comment, he'll try that in the future.
Crimping the cap would have actually made it worse. Squashing the cap will bend it into an oval shape, making a tighter fit on 2 sides, but opening it up on the other 2, unless it's a proper crimp as you would a cartridge bullet, but I've never ever seen a percussion cap crimper that crimps as a reloading press would.
I expect the slixx nipple with the hole in the side of it probably also doesn't help much for keeping water out.
This is what I came to say, he should've tried recapping the chambers that didn't fire. I don't know if it would have changed much, but it's worth a shot. Makes me want to drag out my 1856 Navy and try this myself.
Also expected the cap and balls to do better than they did, but also an awesome side note on the holsters of the day. Very cool as always.
Hey Carl, just wanted to say that I love the content and I love your outfits even more.
my theory about why the colt didn't function as well as the star is because the back of the cylinder is more covered by the frame. The back of the colts entire cylinder is pretty much exposed which lets the water into your caps.
This was great. Historical practicality. Often wondered about about the effects of rain. Much more real world than being dunked in a load of mud. Thanks for your work.
This was a very interesting video and experiment. It is hard to watch how casually you poured water on your guns, but the insight that it brought really gives a good perspective on how it was with these weapons back in the day.
Flintlocks prepared for battle were occasionally made water-resistant on ships by adding a tiny bit of wax onto the frizzen edge after loading.
I bought a .44 cal percussion colt replica, made by pietta, on a lark. It has since become one of my favorite guns to shoot. I've found 20 grains of pyrodex and a .454 cal ball to be both reasonably powerful and accurate, and not overly stressful to the brass frame. Great video
So, what you're saying is that the documentation about the use of wadding in percussion revolvers is really patchy?
Very good. Go reward yourself with a (grease) cookie
Wadd'ya say? ò_Ó
That is exactly what I expected, I remember the first time I took my BP revolvers to the range on a rainy day and figured they would perform as normal. They proved me wrong immediately. One thing I will say I changed out the caps at the range and every round fired perfectly right afterwards. If I left the caps on for any amount of time in the rain they would not ignite. Great video! I've never seen that test performed.
You definitely showed me how a percussion revolver seals. I always wondered about that issue.
On your 2nd it actually fired all rounds because you fired one round before dousing with water. That is unless it has a 7 round chamber. Well done
THIS is why I love InRange & Karl - he had an hypothesis but his experiment proved it at least partially wrong. Yet he unashamedly posts the content as is rather than either faking it or just not posting the video at all. Fantastic (as ever) video.
This is interesting. I've loaded and fired my Remington revolving carbine in a hard rain, and had very little trouble with it. Out of 30 shots, I had 2 misfires. Both chambers fired after recapping.
I appreciate the amount of work and non biased views Karl has in his videos. It makes this content worth watching
One thing you always have to be careful with when dealing with historical sources. Sometimes when you have a document that says "Don't do X.", that's because people actually were. And the inverse of course.
And some advice from the gunmen of the day ......well, was not listened to. Even Wyatt Earp forgot his own advice. There was a minor incident he caused. He once advised a Eastern tenderfoot to only load five, with hammer resting on empty chamber. But during one faro game, HIS revolver somehow fell out , hit the floor and gun fired off a wild round, but no one was hit !
"Here comes the rain again. Falling on my head like a memory"
back in the old days it wasnt uncommon to seal bp revolvers chambers with bees wax or a thin patch with some tallow over it for weather proofing
I think for people in wet conditions it should work.
Well, from someone in the area around Catalina, I am loving the rain this year. Even if it is a bit more humid. Cheers!
Another thing I remember hearing ( can’t recall where ) was that reloading your pistol every morning was common place . The thought being humidity would effect the guns reliability.
I've heard that too
@@schottiey although it never made sense to me , because isn’t the powder and primers in the same humid air that gun is ? What about loading them in the cylinder makes that a thing ?
Wild Bill Hickok was rumored to reload his guns every morning. Saying that when I was re-enacting, we had blank charges, and would just re-cap our guns in the morning and toss our old caps in a pot of boiling water.
Fire them first
Just wanna say, given your message at the end of the video. I always appreciate these videos man. Your passion for history and weapons really shows, it's always a joy tuning into these!
That last shot was hilarious. Flintlocks are just such a wild beast.
that single shot pistol looks cool as hell, keep up the commitment to black powder Karl!
I can only expect wheellock would have similar results, would be an interesting experiment! I would also imagine the spencer carbine would probably run worse in weathered conditions? Who knows
could some grease or beeswax help seal between the caps and the nipple or would the risk of clogging the fire hole be to great.
Also mercury fulminate used to be the standard priming compound but these days potassium chlorate mixtures are more preferred and could have an effect on water resistance.
beeswax will resolve the weather-induced reliability issues with these guns indeed.
I don't think that modern primers use potassium chlorate either as it is corrosive. My understanding is that the most common early priming compounds were actually a mix of the two, trying to ballance out the pros and cons. I would be surprised if modern primers used either, as one is made from mercury and destabilises over time, whilst the other is corrosize. It is probably some safer, cleaner alternative.
@@commando552 fulminate of mercursy is as - or worse - corrosive than potassium chlorate. The misconcepton that you must clean a black powder arm instantly after firing is due to the use of fulminate of mercury as priming compound which indeed rusts the gun almost instantly. Remington advertises their caps as not corrosive so they must use something else. You can clean a black powder fouling up to 48hrs after firing with no permament damage to the gun. Under serious humidity minor surface rust may occur. In a dry envoirment no significant rust should appear up to 48 hrs from black powder fouling only.
@@franklinAll8735 It is from wikipedia so suspect as all hell, but to quote from there "Mercury fulminate has the distinct advantage over potassium chlorate of being non-corrosive, but it is known to weaken with time, by decomposing into its constituent elements." It doesn't really matter if one or both are corrosive, as the standard compound was a mix, comprising three parts potassium chlorate, two parts mercury fulminate, and normally one part powdered glass for extra friction. Only very early were caps pure Mercury fulminate (I think predating them being in a copper cup), so pretty much all historical use of caps and how you need to deal with their corrosive after effects will be in relation to the mixture above.
I believe lead styphnate is used as a priming mixture nowadays, including caps.
Got to Ft. Huachuca for my AIT back in June and the change from pure dry desert to lush mountains is insane.
I would like to see re-capping the failed cylinders after you realized the caps are the issue. Still, very interesting, good info!
A tiny bit of lard/lube over the primers makes a HUGE difference.
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Putting lard/lube over the primers AND over the ball, and you'll be able to submerge the gun entirely.
true. watch?v=NEGdt9KXcbI
They used varnish on the nipples and lard over the ball.
Absolutely, that’s what I do with mine when I go camping
@@peterlenihan5712 I've gone modern, I use clear nail polish.
I was going to suggest the same thing lol
I deer hunt with a .50 percussion. A drop or two of wax, or a q-tip with Vaseline worked well for me in WI rain.
And what was applied to the gun? :P
@@kevinwestermann1001 "A drop or two of wax, or a q-tip with Vaseline". on the capped nipple. Vaseline not as good except in cold. Another thing is bore grease and I carry a small tube of that. Most all Carl's misfires only clicked meaning the caps did not go off, you can hear the difference between a dud cap and wet/no powder load.
I was always a bit curious about this, and the results surprised me. Cool stuff.
"Here comes the rain again."
Great, now I'm gong to have that song stuck in my head :p
As the owner of a percussion revolver and resident of the Puget sound region, this is a welcome video.
Your videos on black powder weapons have been extremely interesting and educational. It’s nice to get a feel for what life was REALLY like instead of how the movies and pop culture portray it. I hope there’s a lot more to come!!
I enjoy hunting with black powder revolvers and where I live is a very wet environment. One trick my grandfather taught me, was to use bore butter (or back in the day tallow), as a water repellant. Smear over the chambers and around the caps to prevent water from getting to the powder or priming compound. I have no idea if this is a documented method but it has been passed down in my family for a few generations. A leather holster goes a long way as well. Thanks for the video as always!
It would be interesting to try this experiment with different brands of caps.
CCI#11 Magnum caps work nearly perfect !
Awesome video man, thanks fot taking the time to try this one out!
I think that the Starr’s “overhang” over the caps is simply protecting the caps…😶. Direct exposure to the rain over the caps is probably the decisive issue. 😶
Ive been talking about getting myself a percussion cap revolver and this really gets me excited to get one!
14:35 got some Paul Harrell vibes when Karl said "However, why not try it?"
I am very glad you were willing to experiment like this... because I sure didn't want to...
I use beeswax to seal my frizzen while flintlock hunting. Would probably work on a percussion cap. But I assume it would be tricky to get right.
Pressing a small amount lard into the cracks would be my first thought....
I've always wanted the answer to this question. Thank you for settling this in my mind!
I feel like there's some kind of capillary action going on with the caps. Just kind of sucks the water straight to the primer.
I read that people who needed to carry cap and ball would coat the cylinder in wax or tallow to prevent water ingress. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Karl "everything is green and lush"
Me in Northern Ireland "LOL at desert man"
The sound the flintlock made at the end of the video is my new favorite thing
It would have been interesting to see if just replacing the cap would make it fire.
I can see you were surprised by your results in a negative way and you kept going, i admire it.
I'm likewise surprised by this result. Would a different varietal of percussion cap make a difference? I'm not familiar with the ins and outs of percussion-cap firearms.
Not familiar with percussion caps, but oil and grease does not play well with primer compounds. In fact one of the primers I used to buy stated that to deactivate them drop them into oil.
That was years ago, so maybe its still true maybe not.
@@chuckaddison5134 use beeswax, it works.
Excellent test, thanks for doing it.
At face value: “of course it won’t work”
Upon pondering: the only access is the cylinder and the cap. Both are tight so, it SHOULD work.
Reality: very surprising, now I’m wondering why it didn’t work.
One thing that helped back in those days was the holster with the flap that covers over the hammer and cylinder nipples and caps.
seems the star with its large top strap might be helping protect against water ingress
very cool, and yeah one would think the caps would be far better at protecting from water than seen.
Good stuff and love seeing historical guns being experimented with to show how far the technology of slinging lead has come haha
Excellent video. I enjoy seeing experiments with unexpected results. This kind of result adds more knowledge than one that fits the hypothesis or predictions. Thanks!
Its crazy my roads look a lot like that after this weeks rain as well. Great video, was really glad there were no hang fires
Superb ! Excellent Video, one of best I've seen ! Very well done to demonstrate how weather fouled up percussion arms. Unique and well done . I learned something I can use for my own shooting AND writing, as I write Civil War and Old West historical novels ! I loved this ! (Staff Sgt. Nam combat vet, USMC/USAF/ARNG) THANK YOU ! Impressive !
Nice video. I like how you acknowledged your hypothesis was incorrect and just accepted it instead of trying to hide it or change the results. Love your videos Karl keep it up man.
Years ago I had an Italian reproduction 1860 Colt. My first day out on the range I experienced a “chain fire” incident involving the chamber next to the one being fired (my last two unfired loads in the cylinder). Another shooter at the range that day suggested that I use a small dab of Crisco shortening on top of the ball to help seal the load. This would both help prevent another chain fire incident and also help deter moisture intrusion from contaminating the black powder charge. This remedy seemed to work as it never chain fired again. I never tried to seal the caps with Crisco, though I think this probably would have been a smart precautionary measure to help increase the reliability of the weapon.
I remember capandball channel doing a similar experiment a few years ago, it's worth a rewatch.
Awesome test! I need to try this with my 1860 colt and hoping I can do it in the natural rain.
Excellent video. Like you said, I haven't seen anything like this anywhere.
Yet another good argument for a top strap - it's a little awning for your caps
Carl absolutely love content like this never cease to amaze me the different things that you come up with to talk about and always always it very interesting even if it's something I don't really know much about or something that I never thought really would be interesting but you put things in words and describe stuff so well that instantly you have me hooked and I wish some of these segments were longer especially when you do the history ones when you go to towns of Old West and explain how important this town was because of these outlaws and all the Western stuff absolutely love it I can tell that you do too which makes the content you do want it that much more interesting thank you truly really really do appreciate all you do for this channel and a shout out to all the patreon to help too.
Awesome video sir! Thank you. I've always wondered about the ability of muzzleloaders to operate in rainy conditions. Very interesting results.
I have been shooting these for 20 years. I have had misfires in the rain, but only very slightly more than the odd misfires that happened dry. I once had my repro 1858 Remington in my hip out mountain hunting, fell through ice on a pond into water up to my shoulders. It must have been completely submerged for a minimum of 3 minutes. Once clear of the freezing water I pulled it not expecting much. It surprisingly emptied all 5 shots I had loaded without so much as a hang fire.
I always made sure to have a good fit between nipple and cap. I also make sure to REALLY press the cap on with enough force to slightly expand the crimp around the outside of the cap perceptively. Your results may vary, but in wet conditions I can usually count on any of my revolvers to go off 5 out of 6 times. I may have to recap the one a 2-4 times, but the last has always gone off too.
Just remember that they are PERCUSSION caps. Steady, firm pressure will not set them off unless defective. That being said, always point in a safe direction just in case, but they should only go off if struck.
Now if I could just get my muzzle loading rifle to be that reliable…
This was a good few years back now, but on my Remington (which as a bit more of an enclosed nipple than the colts), I used to grease the cylinder as you've probably done before, then cap and grease around the cap. Just a ring, you still wanted the head of the cap exposed. It was messy, but pretty much guaranteed good ignition.
As a black powder enthusiast and a long time desert dweller I appreciate this video.
Thanks Karl! great experiment. I thought the caps would seal better also.
I always enjoy the black powder content. It's also nice to see I'm not the only one who uses a pistol flask as a priming flask.
Loved the ending. Great video Karl. Thank you
Very cool results! Did not expect the puff on the flintlock though.
A lovely bit of history, thanks from sunny England.
A touch of gulf wax sealing the caps and the cylinders works a treat. I use a bit of gulf wax on top of the ball and also a bit in each priming cap. Never had a failure. Even my .454 single shot boot gun w a folding that gets carried everyday strapped onto my boot and I have never had a single issue with a misfire. Also I use CCI #11 caps. Never a single misfire