Bit of advise for some people, when you center the wall - dont always start with the edge of the tile at the center...you may end up with a tiny cut either side, work it out first and if needs be have the center of the tile at the center of the wall.
Start from the base and don't go all the way to the top. If you must go to the top, then start from top and make the cut at the base. The base is least noticeable and in most cases hidden by furniture. You will also need to check the angle of the sides with a long spirit level. A slanting will can throw a job completely out.
Suggest you set a length of wood as he did with the knowledge that you will end up cutting your bottom tiles to fit (gap below to be smaller than your tile height). That way if the floor varies from one end to the other, you can cut to suit. and won't know the difference
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are an amateur and don't want to race against the clock, you can paint the adhesive directly to your tiles as an alternative...
He seems to have oversimplified the issue of how to place the vertical starting line. There are two possibilities: 1. Center a tile over a vertical line centered between the side walls. 2. Use the line centered between the two wall as the vertical starting line for your tiles. The choice of which approach to use depends on which one eliminates the need for small tiles on the ends.
Great video. With the inserted corner spacers, do you leave those in or do you ever remove those? I would think that they might leave a weak spot in the grout. Any opinions??
@missjunglette Either level the wall with plaster (sometimes difficult), add plasterboard stood off from the wall, or get smaller tiles so the edge discontinuities aren't obvious. If you use plasterboard make sure it will take the weight of the tiles, you need to check the strength rating.
This guy is a wizard.... It takes me 20mins to work out how to comb the adhesive on to the wall without it dropping all over the place. By then its starting to dry... I need Tommy skills !!
Thanks for posting this video. Could you please clarify how you know where to measure/drill the batten board? Also, does the measurement include all the spacers from the tiles below the board? Thanks!
Its funny how you said at the start that "we are going to tile a wall just like this one" That scene was filmed after the job had already been completed. I wonder how many people noticed? The thing I like about your work, is that its clean. I end up with glue on clothes, hair and floor. Good job mate!
What should I do to prep the wall if it's a little "messed up" by removing previous tiles? I will fill the few holes which appeared (due to highly bonded tiles) but the paper layer of the plasterboard is now peeling in most places and exposed. Does it need skimming?
nmg196 if the holes patches are not huge I would use the tile adhesive to patch them using a flat steel trowel give it a half day to set (or use fast setting adhesive) if you want to tile straight away
Klik Date given up tiling now, she's probably bought a drill for 30 quid to dig holes in the lintels to put up curtains. I went to a job yesterday to refit her wobbly bath taps she epoxyed back on, lol.
There was a large spot behind one of the tiles with NO mortar! Every bit of the tile should have mortar on the back or it can fall off eventually. Other than that it's informative.
you are totally right, also ive noticed the technique of back buttering is better, because the way hes laying down the tiles, in my experience, leaves too much air trapped inside and not much adhesion, once dry, knock on the tiles with your fingers and youll notice several of them with air pockets, they fall after a few years
good job Andy ,, you make it look quite straight forward ,, Tommy`s like most gaffers ,, he`s waved his hands about and disappeared ,, probably to the Golf club or the pub ,,or maybe both ,,,, cheers guys ,,good video ,, :-)
shouldn't the adheasive be spead so that the notches in the trowel create the notches on the wall with the adhesive vertically so that there wont be any sag if the tiles go on the horizontal notches?
That is true. I noticed he was saving on glue too. The trowel should be scraped at about 45 degree. the grooves are air channels for the trapped air to escape. otherwise it is too hard to push the tile down. It's all about angles and pressure. Same as plastering. Not how you spread it on but how you take it off.
@missjunglette Was the wall always bowed? When the house was built the studs (vertical 2x4's that make up the structure) might of not been plumb behind the wall. Or when the shower was built they might of put in regular 1/2" drywall instead of cement board, which would absorb moisture and cause the wall to bow and be very uneven. If it is one of those two problems it is a easy fix to cut out the wall and replace with new cement board which will give you a nice flat surface. Hope this helps.
How do you know if the walls are running in or out if you only take on measurement? You have to take two measurements one at top and other at bottom and then adjust the centre accordingly.
at around 8 mins into the video, the gentleman says clean off all the adhesive, this is especially important to keep the adhesive level in all areas as to avoid excess adhesive which could be troulblesome after
Why 420 from the floor? Assume its something to do with the tile size. The issue I have is the tiles are relatively small and rectangular (10cmx20cm) I know at least 1 of the walls skirting is NOT level so what would you recommend please?
So let's say the surface area you are tiling is long height-wise. And you are tiling from the ground up so you can't use a 2x4 and you are using the same exact size tiles in the video. Do you want to tile a few rows and let it set for a day then tile a few more rows so the tiles won't move because of the weight?
Hi Guy,Im doing a shower stall, it has lite brown and tan speckle paint on the wall's. I wanna tile the stall in lite and med dark tile,, but im not sure the grout will stick to the paint in the stall?
When installing tile underlayment. for a bathroom can I install just cement board or do I need to install both drywall and cement board.? or just drywall?
Biggest problem in the UK is that joiners are jack of all trades and say they can tile. This just isn't true in the majority of cases. If you want someone to tile use a TILER. A tiler knows how to set out correctly, he is also competent in tanking/waterproofing. My joiner told me to just tile straight on the tilebacker..
cont.. - Always plan to have the biggest cut possible, where possible. Small cuts are ammature. If he'd started the centre of his first tile on the wall centre line, he'd have had another half a tile bigger on the cut at the end of the wall. - This guy has done a bit of tiling before but he is by no means a tiler
Isn't it better to have the cut tile at the bottom rather than on the top at it looks much better to have a full tile on the top? Can anybody elaborate on it?
Was that a grunt I heard at about 1 min 12 seconds? Its interesting while you work you hold your breathe and release air as you work in a grunt sound without even knowing you are doing it. Can you explain the type of adhesive you are using and the reason you started at a particular height. Were the tiles laid on drywall and if so do you need to find studs for fixing screws?
@feralferret ....because you're going to end up cutting the tiles no matter where you start. If you start from one side instead of the center it will look unbalanced! Everyone knows that you must start from the middle, genius.
So once your done with the wood that is holding up the tiles from sliding downwards, what do you do with the holes caused by the screws you drilled into the wall? Assuming you don't put any baseboards to cover it up.
Bit of advise for some people, when you center the wall - dont always start with the edge of the tile at the center...you may end up with a tiny cut either side, work it out first and if needs be have the center of the tile at the center of the wall.
This video was great. I was able to do entire bathroom on what I learned. Thank for putting it out for all to see.
You, sir, make this look easy. Thanks for the video!
great for any novice out there who's going tiling the first time ,clearly explained
Start from the base and don't go all the way to the top.
If you must go to the top, then start from top and make the cut at the base. The base is least noticeable and in most cases hidden by furniture.
You will also need to check the angle of the sides with a long spirit level. A slanting will can throw a job completely out.
Suggest you set a length of wood as he did with the knowledge that you will end up cutting your bottom tiles to fit (gap below to be smaller than your tile height). That way if the floor varies from one end to the other, you can cut to suit. and won't know the difference
Cheers guys, I followed your tips, and now my bathroom looks a treat!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are an amateur and don't want to race against the clock, you can paint the adhesive directly to your tiles as an alternative...
You make it look like the easiest, cleanest job ever!! Brilliant tutorial, thank you.
am going on a tiling job tomorrow thanks bro this help a lot...
Well Demonstrated and Excellent videos with a basic common tilling tools.
A step by step guide.
I think you should mention checking the wall for hidden electrical cables and pipes before screwing a support batten.
He seems to have oversimplified the issue of how to place the vertical starting line. There are two possibilities: 1. Center a tile over a vertical line centered between the side walls. 2. Use the line centered between the two wall as the vertical starting line for your tiles. The choice of which approach to use depends on which one eliminates the need for small tiles on the ends.
Great video. With the inserted corner spacers, do you leave those in or do you ever remove those? I would think that they might leave a weak spot in the grout. Any opinions??
@missjunglette Either level the wall with plaster (sometimes difficult), add plasterboard stood off from the wall, or get smaller tiles so the edge discontinuities aren't obvious. If you use plasterboard make sure it will take the weight of the tiles, you need to check the strength rating.
This guy is a wizard.... It takes me 20mins to work out how to comb the adhesive on to the wall without it dropping all over the place. By then its starting to dry... I need Tommy skills !!
Thanks for posting this video. Could you please clarify how you know where to measure/drill the batten board? Also, does the measurement include all the spacers from the tiles below the board? Thanks!
Hi Guys ! Thanks for a brilliant video which has now given me the confidence to tackle my bathroom. keep 'em coming guys ! Regards . . . Eddie.
Its funny how you said at the start that "we are going to tile a wall just like this one"
That scene was filmed after the job had already been completed. I wonder how many people noticed?
The thing I like about your work, is that its clean. I end up with glue on clothes, hair and floor.
Good job mate!
How about a demo where the plasterer has left the walls with more bumps than a roller fucking coaster?
thanks that a perfect demonstration, the demonstrator is very skilful as a tiler and a presenter, message come across successfully.
What should I do to prep the wall if it's a little "messed up" by removing previous tiles? I will fill the few holes which appeared (due to highly bonded tiles) but the paper layer of the plasterboard is now peeling in most places and exposed. Does it need skimming?
nmg196 if the holes patches are not huge I would use the tile adhesive to patch them using a flat steel trowel give it a half day to set (or use fast setting adhesive) if you want to tile straight away
Who needs scool when ya got youtube :D
+Ravel Viirsalu :)
You do when you can't spell "SCHOOL" properly!
You don't think that was planned....take a hint haha
This video has given me the knowledge to have a go!!Thanks
+mandy harkins Your welcome Mandy. Good luck
Klik Date given up tiling now, she's probably bought a drill for 30 quid to dig holes in the lintels to put up curtains. I went to a job yesterday to refit her wobbly bath taps she epoxyed back on, lol.
I quickly becoming a fan. Like your instructional video's.
+Ready Temp Brilliant nice to hear it
+Ready Temp definitely.
excellenet video mate, made it look very simple and straight forward, thanks, i feel i can do this
Andy, I love your videos.
Brilliant! Question... Other than tiling adhesive, what other can i use? Tq.
There was a large spot behind one of the tiles with NO mortar! Every bit of the tile should have mortar on the back or it can fall off eventually. Other than that it's informative.
you are totally right, also ive noticed the technique of back buttering is better, because the way hes laying down the tiles, in my experience, leaves too much air trapped inside and not much adhesion, once dry, knock on the tiles with your fingers and youll notice several of them with air pockets, they fall after a few years
good job Andy ,, you make it look quite straight forward ,, Tommy`s like most gaffers ,, he`s waved his hands about and disappeared ,, probably to the Golf club or the pub ,,or maybe both ,,,, cheers guys ,,good video ,, :-)
shouldn't the adheasive be spead so that the notches in the trowel create the notches on the wall with the adhesive vertically so that there wont be any sag if the tiles go on the horizontal notches?
This is fantastic information. Thanks for the upload.
Hello Do u A have suggestion for a painted surface. do i need to apply backer wood first?
That is true. I noticed he was saving on glue too. The trowel should be scraped at about 45 degree. the grooves are air channels for the trapped air to escape. otherwise it is too hard to push the tile down. It's all about angles and pressure. Same as plastering. Not how you spread it on but how you take it off.
I very very like the ts .ok but I can't understand which cements using because I am in KSA
I.cant wait to try tiling the bathroom ....something unique ...thought the video was very helpful...
Thank you very much for making this video.
@missjunglette Was the wall always bowed? When the house was built the studs (vertical 2x4's that make up the structure) might of not been plumb behind the wall. Or when the shower was built they might of put in regular 1/2" drywall instead of cement board, which would absorb moisture and cause the wall to bow and be very uneven. If it is one of those two problems it is a easy fix to cut out the wall and replace with new cement board which will give you a nice flat surface. Hope this helps.
That tile cutter is excellent, quick, and looks easy to use. How much is it?
what do you do about skirting boards do you tile to floor ,or skirting board hope this makes sense
How do you know if the walls are running in or out if you only take on measurement? You have to take two measurements one at top and other at bottom and then adjust the centre accordingly.
very interested video with lesson well learnt on how to tile a wall.
thank you for the tips and sharing them with everyone
at around 8 mins into the video, the gentleman says clean off all the adhesive, this is especially important to keep the adhesive level in all areas as to avoid excess adhesive which could be troulblesome after
..wow so quick :) thank you my dear :) now I can that :) thankssssssssssssss ..greetings from Germany :Sophia
Why 420 from the floor? Assume its something to do with the tile size. The issue I have is the tiles are relatively small and rectangular (10cmx20cm)
I know at least 1 of the walls skirting is NOT level so what would you recommend please?
you make it look so easy
isnt it better if you have the same cuts on the top and the bottom. better meaning, more aesthetically appealing
You make it look so easy. Thank you.
What was the point in starting in the centre of the wall? And why 420 from the floor?
+Kathryn Love He starts in the centre to end up with even cuts at each end.
As for the 420 off the floor... I missed that too !
+J-L B Thx!
+Kathryn Love Agreed with why the 420mm from the floor ? i need answers Tommy fast
+Kathryn Love i would imagine it would be to imitate a bath or work top height
+Kathryn Love The 420 would of been just a rough guideline for this demonstration
brilliant! many thanks! fast, skillful, very clear.
What is the wall surface on which the tiles are adhering ? Standard wallboard....Sheetrock?
So let's say the surface area you are tiling is long height-wise.
And you are tiling from the ground up so you can't use a 2x4 and you are using the same exact size tiles in the video.
Do you want to tile a few rows and let it set for a day then tile a few more rows so the tiles won't move because of the weight?
excellent video for dummies like me
How much is a good tile cutter?
As me mate from the old country says,,, "well done fellas"!
Thumbs up From Australia
thankful to find this video very helpful.
It's very easy. I think I can do it!!!
Hi Guy,Im doing a shower stall,
it has lite brown and tan speckle paint on the wall's.
I wanna tile the stall in lite and med dark tile,,
but im not sure the grout will stick to the paint in the stall?
enjoyed the video very simple thank you
When installing tile underlayment. for a bathroom can I install just cement board or do I need to install both drywall and cement board.? or just drywall?
Very useful Andy and Tom me old mates. Thanks.
shame you didnt do corners and windows. clearest instruction yet!
nice tile cutter
Biggest problem in the UK is that joiners are jack of all trades and say they can tile. This just isn't true in the majority of cases. If you want someone to tile use a TILER. A tiler knows how to set out correctly, he is also competent in tanking/waterproofing. My joiner told me to just tile straight on the tilebacker..
How do you know the tiles are straight/flush?
at what point did you remove all the rest of the spacers ?
THIS IS HELPFUL FOR SURE
Good video, well done
Nice Vid but why not start from the top so no cut tiles at eye level and also why 20cm from the ground
Thanks if any one can tell me !!!
Nice one tommy love it I wish I could do same thing like that
The most thing I want to know that. Thank you for your video.
Great Tips on Tiling
Great video. Thank you!
Good Video, well explained.
brilliant vid. cant wait to get cracking. cheers.
+Jacky Tuoro Good luck :)
Great video. Can't get the tools from you as I live in the US.
awesome ..well done Tommy
great video!
I'm going to try this one day, I'll let u know how I do lol
No question the video is great---- its got different dimension too.
overnight is best,by the way,not mentioned here is to check behind the wall where any screws are going for electricity and/or water.
thank u so much
man u r amazing ... such beauty u have created !!
very useful thanks
this video is great,thank you tommy
that was very useful thanks
Thank you for this video. I tried to open the links but the pages are unavalable.
+MsBrutus64 Thank you for your continued support keep your eyes peeled for new videos coming soon please re try using www.tommysyard.com Many thanks
smashing job LADS !!!
really enjoyed your video
cont..
- Always plan to have the biggest cut possible, where possible. Small cuts are ammature. If he'd started the centre of his first tile on the wall centre line, he'd have had another half a tile bigger on the cut at the end of the wall.
- This guy has done a bit of tiling before but he is by no means a tiler
Great video!!!
Really nice, thanks
great video! thanks a lot
can you tile straight onto plasterboard ?
Excellent!
Isn't it better to have the cut tile at the bottom rather than on the top at it looks much better to have a full tile on the top? Can anybody elaborate on it?
Was that a grunt I heard at about 1 min 12 seconds? Its interesting while you work you hold your breathe and release air as you work in a grunt sound without even knowing you are doing it. Can you explain the type of adhesive you are using and the reason you started at a particular height. Were the tiles laid on drywall and if so do you need to find studs for fixing screws?
@feralferret ....because you're going to end up cutting the tiles no matter where you start. If you start from one side instead of the center it will look unbalanced! Everyone knows that you must start from the middle, genius.
So once your done with the wood that is holding up the tiles from sliding downwards, what do you do with the holes caused by the screws you drilled into the wall? Assuming you don't put any baseboards to cover it up.
+Jean-Luc S
Your bottom row of tiles will cover the screw holes.