Bit of advise for some people, when you center the wall - dont always start with the edge of the tile at the center...you may end up with a tiny cut either side, work it out first and if needs be have the center of the tile at the center of the wall.
Suggest you set a length of wood as he did with the knowledge that you will end up cutting your bottom tiles to fit (gap below to be smaller than your tile height). That way if the floor varies from one end to the other, you can cut to suit. and won't know the difference
Start from the base and don't go all the way to the top. If you must go to the top, then start from top and make the cut at the base. The base is least noticeable and in most cases hidden by furniture. You will also need to check the angle of the sides with a long spirit level. A slanting will can throw a job completely out.
Its funny how you said at the start that "we are going to tile a wall just like this one" That scene was filmed after the job had already been completed. I wonder how many people noticed? The thing I like about your work, is that its clean. I end up with glue on clothes, hair and floor. Good job mate!
This guy is a wizard.... It takes me 20mins to work out how to comb the adhesive on to the wall without it dropping all over the place. By then its starting to dry... I need Tommy skills !!
Klik Date given up tiling now, she's probably bought a drill for 30 quid to dig holes in the lintels to put up curtains. I went to a job yesterday to refit her wobbly bath taps she epoxyed back on, lol.
good job Andy ,, you make it look quite straight forward ,, Tommy`s like most gaffers ,, he`s waved his hands about and disappeared ,, probably to the Golf club or the pub ,,or maybe both ,,,, cheers guys ,,good video ,, :-)
you are totally right, also ive noticed the technique of back buttering is better, because the way hes laying down the tiles, in my experience, leaves too much air trapped inside and not much adhesion, once dry, knock on the tiles with your fingers and youll notice several of them with air pockets, they fall after a few years
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are an amateur and don't want to race against the clock, you can paint the adhesive directly to your tiles as an alternative...
@missjunglette Was the wall always bowed? When the house was built the studs (vertical 2x4's that make up the structure) might of not been plumb behind the wall. Or when the shower was built they might of put in regular 1/2" drywall instead of cement board, which would absorb moisture and cause the wall to bow and be very uneven. If it is one of those two problems it is a easy fix to cut out the wall and replace with new cement board which will give you a nice flat surface. Hope this helps.
shouldn't the adheasive be spead so that the notches in the trowel create the notches on the wall with the adhesive vertically so that there wont be any sag if the tiles go on the horizontal notches?
That is true. I noticed he was saving on glue too. The trowel should be scraped at about 45 degree. the grooves are air channels for the trapped air to escape. otherwise it is too hard to push the tile down. It's all about angles and pressure. Same as plastering. Not how you spread it on but how you take it off.
Hi Guy,Im doing a shower stall, it has lite brown and tan speckle paint on the wall's. I wanna tile the stall in lite and med dark tile,, but im not sure the grout will stick to the paint in the stall?
He seems to have oversimplified the issue of how to place the vertical starting line. There are two possibilities: 1. Center a tile over a vertical line centered between the side walls. 2. Use the line centered between the two wall as the vertical starting line for your tiles. The choice of which approach to use depends on which one eliminates the need for small tiles on the ends.
@missjunglette Either level the wall with plaster (sometimes difficult), add plasterboard stood off from the wall, or get smaller tiles so the edge discontinuities aren't obvious. If you use plasterboard make sure it will take the weight of the tiles, you need to check the strength rating.
Thanks for posting this video. Could you please clarify how you know where to measure/drill the batten board? Also, does the measurement include all the spacers from the tiles below the board? Thanks!
What should I do to prep the wall if it's a little "messed up" by removing previous tiles? I will fill the few holes which appeared (due to highly bonded tiles) but the paper layer of the plasterboard is now peeling in most places and exposed. Does it need skimming?
nmg196 if the holes patches are not huge I would use the tile adhesive to patch them using a flat steel trowel give it a half day to set (or use fast setting adhesive) if you want to tile straight away
When installing tile underlayment. for a bathroom can I install just cement board or do I need to install both drywall and cement board.? or just drywall?
Why 420 from the floor? Assume its something to do with the tile size. The issue I have is the tiles are relatively small and rectangular (10cmx20cm) I know at least 1 of the walls skirting is NOT level so what would you recommend please?
Great video. With the inserted corner spacers, do you leave those in or do you ever remove those? I would think that they might leave a weak spot in the grout. Any opinions??
at around 8 mins into the video, the gentleman says clean off all the adhesive, this is especially important to keep the adhesive level in all areas as to avoid excess adhesive which could be troulblesome after
How do you know if the walls are running in or out if you only take on measurement? You have to take two measurements one at top and other at bottom and then adjust the centre accordingly.
looking for a video for bathroom floor tile but want a small splash of tile on wall where it meets the floor going round the room about 2 to 3 inch what is the prudent way to make the tiles meet in the joint possibly including the bottom of a standard tub
There was a large spot behind one of the tiles with NO mortar! Every bit of the tile should have mortar on the back or it can fall off eventually. Other than that it's informative.
Bit of advise for some people, when you center the wall - dont always start with the edge of the tile at the center...you may end up with a tiny cut either side, work it out first and if needs be have the center of the tile at the center of the wall.
This video was great. I was able to do entire bathroom on what I learned. Thank for putting it out for all to see.
You, sir, make this look easy. Thanks for the video!
great for any novice out there who's going tiling the first time ,clearly explained
Cheers guys, I followed your tips, and now my bathroom looks a treat!
Suggest you set a length of wood as he did with the knowledge that you will end up cutting your bottom tiles to fit (gap below to be smaller than your tile height). That way if the floor varies from one end to the other, you can cut to suit. and won't know the difference
Start from the base and don't go all the way to the top.
If you must go to the top, then start from top and make the cut at the base. The base is least noticeable and in most cases hidden by furniture.
You will also need to check the angle of the sides with a long spirit level. A slanting will can throw a job completely out.
You make it look like the easiest, cleanest job ever!! Brilliant tutorial, thank you.
As me mate from the old country says,,, "well done fellas"!
Thumbs up From Australia
Well Demonstrated and Excellent videos with a basic common tilling tools.
A step by step guide.
thanks that a perfect demonstration, the demonstrator is very skilful as a tiler and a presenter, message come across successfully.
Its funny how you said at the start that "we are going to tile a wall just like this one"
That scene was filmed after the job had already been completed. I wonder how many people noticed?
The thing I like about your work, is that its clean. I end up with glue on clothes, hair and floor.
Good job mate!
This guy is a wizard.... It takes me 20mins to work out how to comb the adhesive on to the wall without it dropping all over the place. By then its starting to dry... I need Tommy skills !!
Andy, I love your videos.
am going on a tiling job tomorrow thanks bro this help a lot...
Thank you very much for making this video.
This video has given me the knowledge to have a go!!Thanks
+mandy harkins Your welcome Mandy. Good luck
Klik Date given up tiling now, she's probably bought a drill for 30 quid to dig holes in the lintels to put up curtains. I went to a job yesterday to refit her wobbly bath taps she epoxyed back on, lol.
good job Andy ,, you make it look quite straight forward ,, Tommy`s like most gaffers ,, he`s waved his hands about and disappeared ,, probably to the Golf club or the pub ,,or maybe both ,,,, cheers guys ,,good video ,, :-)
Hi Guys ! Thanks for a brilliant video which has now given me the confidence to tackle my bathroom. keep 'em coming guys ! Regards . . . Eddie.
I quickly becoming a fan. Like your instructional video's.
+Ready Temp Brilliant nice to hear it
+Ready Temp definitely.
you are totally right, also ive noticed the technique of back buttering is better, because the way hes laying down the tiles, in my experience, leaves too much air trapped inside and not much adhesion, once dry, knock on the tiles with your fingers and youll notice several of them with air pockets, they fall after a few years
excellenet video mate, made it look very simple and straight forward, thanks, i feel i can do this
You make it look so easy. Thank you.
enjoyed the video very simple thank you
what do you do about skirting boards do you tile to floor ,or skirting board hope this makes sense
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are an amateur and don't want to race against the clock, you can paint the adhesive directly to your tiles as an alternative...
Great video. Thank you!
This is fantastic information. Thanks for the upload.
@missjunglette Was the wall always bowed? When the house was built the studs (vertical 2x4's that make up the structure) might of not been plumb behind the wall. Or when the shower was built they might of put in regular 1/2" drywall instead of cement board, which would absorb moisture and cause the wall to bow and be very uneven. If it is one of those two problems it is a easy fix to cut out the wall and replace with new cement board which will give you a nice flat surface. Hope this helps.
thank you for the tips and sharing them with everyone
shouldn't the adheasive be spead so that the notches in the trowel create the notches on the wall with the adhesive vertically so that there wont be any sag if the tiles go on the horizontal notches?
..wow so quick :) thank you my dear :) now I can that :) thankssssssssssssss ..greetings from Germany :Sophia
thankful to find this video very helpful.
very interested video with lesson well learnt on how to tile a wall.
I very very like the ts .ok but I can't understand which cements using because I am in KSA
That is true. I noticed he was saving on glue too. The trowel should be scraped at about 45 degree. the grooves are air channels for the trapped air to escape. otherwise it is too hard to push the tile down. It's all about angles and pressure. Same as plastering. Not how you spread it on but how you take it off.
THIS IS HELPFUL FOR SURE
you make it look so easy
Good video, well done
I.cant wait to try tiling the bathroom ....something unique ...thought the video was very helpful...
brilliant! many thanks! fast, skillful, very clear.
Hi Guy,Im doing a shower stall,
it has lite brown and tan speckle paint on the wall's.
I wanna tile the stall in lite and med dark tile,,
but im not sure the grout will stick to the paint in the stall?
Brilliant! Question... Other than tiling adhesive, what other can i use? Tq.
He seems to have oversimplified the issue of how to place the vertical starting line. There are two possibilities: 1. Center a tile over a vertical line centered between the side walls. 2. Use the line centered between the two wall as the vertical starting line for your tiles. The choice of which approach to use depends on which one eliminates the need for small tiles on the ends.
@missjunglette Either level the wall with plaster (sometimes difficult), add plasterboard stood off from the wall, or get smaller tiles so the edge discontinuities aren't obvious. If you use plasterboard make sure it will take the weight of the tiles, you need to check the strength rating.
Great Tips on Tiling
Thanks for posting this video. Could you please clarify how you know where to measure/drill the batten board? Also, does the measurement include all the spacers from the tiles below the board? Thanks!
very useful thanks
Good Video, well explained.
this video is great,thank you tommy
great video!
I think you should mention checking the wall for hidden electrical cables and pipes before screwing a support batten.
What should I do to prep the wall if it's a little "messed up" by removing previous tiles? I will fill the few holes which appeared (due to highly bonded tiles) but the paper layer of the plasterboard is now peeling in most places and exposed. Does it need skimming?
nmg196 if the holes patches are not huge I would use the tile adhesive to patch them using a flat steel trowel give it a half day to set (or use fast setting adhesive) if you want to tile straight away
awesome ..well done Tommy
really enjoyed your video
When installing tile underlayment. for a bathroom can I install just cement board or do I need to install both drywall and cement board.? or just drywall?
Hello Do u A have suggestion for a painted surface. do i need to apply backer wood first?
Very useful Andy and Tom me old mates. Thanks.
Why 420 from the floor? Assume its something to do with the tile size. The issue I have is the tiles are relatively small and rectangular (10cmx20cm)
I know at least 1 of the walls skirting is NOT level so what would you recommend please?
Nice one tommy love it I wish I could do same thing like that
that was very useful thanks
Really nice, thanks
The most thing I want to know that. Thank you for your video.
brilliant vid. cant wait to get cracking. cheers.
+Jacky Tuoro Good luck :)
great video! thanks a lot
Great video. With the inserted corner spacers, do you leave those in or do you ever remove those? I would think that they might leave a weak spot in the grout. Any opinions??
can you tile straight onto plasterboard ?
Excellent!
What is the wall surface on which the tiles are adhering ? Standard wallboard....Sheetrock?
at around 8 mins into the video, the gentleman says clean off all the adhesive, this is especially important to keep the adhesive level in all areas as to avoid excess adhesive which could be troulblesome after
How do you know if the walls are running in or out if you only take on measurement? You have to take two measurements one at top and other at bottom and then adjust the centre accordingly.
That tile cutter is excellent, quick, and looks easy to use. How much is it?
It's very easy. I think I can do it!!!
sir please explain about cement selection
what is the best way to make sure that all the tiles are level on the wall so as not to have any lips between the two tiles.
thx great upload + good work
Can that adhesive be near a wood borning stove...????
thanks for the video.
thanks very helpfull tommy
wonderful.
thanks that was very informative.
at what point did you remove all the rest of the spacers ?
looking for a video for bathroom floor tile but want a small splash of tile on wall where it meets the floor going round the room about 2 to 3 inch what is the prudent way to make the tiles meet in the joint possibly including the bottom of a standard tub
What brand of tile score saw is that?
thank you very much.
thank you !! this was v helpful!!!
Great vid!
Great vid!! Thank you!!
nice tile cutter
Great video. Can't get the tools from you as I live in the US.
Nice job buddy. i like it.
+lsgtr. Thanks :)
What was the point in starting in the centre of the wall? And why 420 from the floor?
+Kathryn Love He starts in the centre to end up with even cuts at each end.
As for the 420 off the floor... I missed that too !
+J-L B Thx!
+Kathryn Love Agreed with why the 420mm from the floor ? i need answers Tommy fast
+Kathryn Love i would imagine it would be to imitate a bath or work top height
+Kathryn Love The 420 would of been just a rough guideline for this demonstration
excellent video for dummies like me
What was the name ceramic Cutter?
There was a large spot behind one of the tiles with NO mortar! Every bit of the tile should have mortar on the back or it can fall off eventually. Other than that it's informative.
Nice Vid but why not start from the top so no cut tiles at eye level and also why 20cm from the ground
Thanks if any one can tell me !!!
thank you great video!
thanks very nice...
No question the video is great---- its got different dimension too.
it was great lesson tnx