I don't know if it was deliberate but I find it pleasing how the two lintel bricks at the top are resting equally on the pier below. Looks nice and strong 💪 I do agree with the other guy who said you should have fixed with clips though
This is exactly what I was looking for nice one, do you think tanking is essential for showers? I can't see the shower head install follow up to this?.. £10k for a new bathroom in London is pushing me to do this myself
Good tip with the pex as protection! PVC shower wall panels might be suitable behind your taps? The modern designs don’t look that bad and they obviously guarantee water-tightness.
You mean the depth of tiles on the wall to the side of the bath? Maybe, but with the window throwing everything out of whack it probably doesn't matter much in this case.
Could the shower not run from the side of the bath instead so window not in way? I guess it prob look more unusual and required way more plumbing and moving the bath..
I think it would look strange on the side. Also the ceiling slopes down above the bath because of the way the roof is so there's a bit less height there.
I would have suggested that the tap and shower end be spun around 180 to the other end. He did mention that his missus made the suggestion and the customer is always right. Even when they are not.
I've been using an angle grinder to recess my water piping, but the dust, how do you do it? maybe I'm doing something wrong but the dust is unbearable, it's like the Sahara during a sandstorm, perhaps I'll try dynamite next time, it's cleaner. Looks easy when you work, but the demolition tool, one I had was so heavy (BOSCH GSH 5 CE), I gave up on that as I would have wound up in the bedroom of the girl next door. I hired it, think the guy who served me thought I wanted to break into a bank.
Yep the dust is immense like the Sahara. I now use a multi tool with a mansonary bit, it's slower but far less dusty. I cut the shape out with it to the depth and then chisel it out out an ads drill. I'll have to do a video on it.
About 25mm, just enough to cover the pipe. You cannot chase out more than 1/3 of the brick depth as it will affect the walls strength. So no more than 33mm
I’ve got a scenario where I have tile work that I want to keep. Could I chase up the wall for the pipe work and cover the back of a shower enclosure in 6mm backer board and match the tiles? The board would be mechanically fixed to the brickwork behind the existing tiles. Would this look like a cowboy job?
Great video bud, this is gonna come in handy im installing one of these in a few weeks. Quick question could I use speedfit for the whole fit or would copper pipe be a better choice? Cheers 👍🏻
Hi, I'm no expert but if you have the same situation as mine then you wouldn't fit the pushfit elbows in the brick. As far as I am aware you can only channel out 1/3 of the brick depth (so 33mm) on a 100mm brick. And as it is buried in plaster a solder jointed copper pipe would probably be better than a pushfit anyway, just make sure copper is protected as the plaster will eventually eat through it.. If I had a stud partition wall behind the bath rather than a brick wall I would of done it all in PEX/speedfit. Good luck mate.
I've always wondered how plumbing (especially DWV) is installed in houses made of 100% brick. In the U.S our walls are hollow so wires and pipes can run through, but how can you run DWV pipes in brick walls (especially horizontally) . That's always been my question and I can't seem to find an answer.
A lot of the UK new build houses are made with some stud walls (like your hollow walls) so it would be the same as the US. But most of these old houses are brick and usually bathroom pipes are just surface mounted and boxed in with wood. I wouldn't want to chase out a long horizontal length, as I'm sure that would make a weak point in the wall, but I have seen some lead pipe in this house buried in the wall 10mm and then plastered over.
Hi , i have a question , why did you use copper pipe mix with plastic , instead use all plastic ? for me great looking job , i have to do bathroom myself looking for information tips and tricks , this video will help me a loot.
Hi good video, some great tips here. What mix did you use to plaster the pipes into place? Also are there any considerations for expansion and contraction? I'm just about to do a similar job but the wall is finished plaster and we will be tiling
I fixed it in place with bonding coat plaster and then used multi finish plaster over the top. The pipe has room to expand and contract inside the PEX pipe I put it in. You must put the pipe inside something to protect it as the plaster will eat away the copper pipe. Good luck with it. 👍
Why use a laser level just to mark a couple of lines on a wall that don't have to be perfectly straight? To get the laser level out and set it up would take far longer than just using a spirit level. If I was running pipes up the outside of the wall I would of used a laser level to make sure they were perfect, but not for pipes being buried in the wall.
Probably costs 50p of electric to do a soldered joint.Torch and mapp gas is cheap enough.That white plastic and fittings looks horrendous.Try and stick with the copper.
This is very simple .. we have been doing it for 20 years in Nepal ... fantastic ...
Hero, was struggling to find a video of situation like my with bath up to the brick. Well informed 👍
Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful.
Omg thanks for that wooden Bratton fitting method - to keep the distance right
You are very welcome, I'm glad it's helped you 👍
iam glad you put isolating valves on the the shower and the bath cold and hot water supply great work enjoyed the video.
So glad I watched this before getting started. Thank you for a great video.
Really insightful. Thank you!
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it.
Great job iam going fit mind tomorrow .
This is perfect for my bath / shower situation. Thanks I've subbed and will watch more of your videos 👍
Just what iv been looking for, thanks for making it clear and in simple terms , defo subscribing to you 😊
Brilliant & well explained
Thank you
Thanks, that's really clear. Quality vid.
I'm glad it was a help to you. 👍
Great video mate thanks for posting. 👍
Thanks for the nice comment
Thanks interesting and very helpful.
Legend, thank you!
You're welcome.
Very good informative tips good for what I wanted to learn a pain with it being brick.Plus side is push fit plastic pipe fitting.
Thank you
Top tip use a hover under the grinder saves so much dust
Thank you for showing us. I've plastered the walls and am tiling, I needed to know how far to tile to then I can get the plumber in
I don't know if it was deliberate but I find it pleasing how the two lintel bricks at the top are resting equally on the pier below. Looks nice and strong 💪
I do agree with the other guy who said you should have fixed with clips though
This is exactly what I was looking for nice one, do you think tanking is essential for showers? I can't see the shower head install follow up to this?.. £10k for a new bathroom in London is pushing me to do this myself
Noticed window over hangs bath line how do you screen it?
Good tip with the pex as protection! PVC shower wall panels might be suitable behind your taps? The modern designs don’t look that bad and they obviously guarantee water-tightness.
Great but how you fitting the shower screen lol
Thanks for sharing.
Would you advise taking into account the tile depth when measuring the pipe centres?
Thanks a lot for sharing
You mean the depth of tiles on the wall to the side of the bath? Maybe, but with the window throwing everything out of whack it probably doesn't matter much in this case.
If you know the tiles you'll use it can be nice to adjust the pipe outlets so they come out on the centre of a tile rather than the edge
With my tub I went with a double outlet from a single tap. Get the temp right on the tub filler and switch it over to the hose and its a shower.
Unfortunatley the wife wants to keep the old bath taps so I had to run seperate pipes :)
@@LCWDIY we do love our women :)
Could the shower not run from the side of the bath instead so window not in way? I guess it prob look more unusual and required way more plumbing and moving the bath..
I think it would look strange on the side. Also the ceiling slopes down above the bath because of the way the roof is so there's a bit less height there.
How did you deal with protecting the window from the shower spray?
I would have suggested that the tap and shower end be spun around 180 to the other end. He did mention that his missus made the suggestion and the customer is always right. Even when they are not.
Pipes should be affixed using pipe clips
I've been using an angle grinder to recess my water piping, but the dust, how do you do it? maybe I'm doing something wrong but the dust is unbearable, it's like the Sahara during a sandstorm, perhaps I'll try dynamite next time, it's cleaner. Looks easy when you work, but the demolition tool, one I had was so heavy (BOSCH GSH 5 CE), I gave up on that as I would have wound up in the bedroom of the girl next door. I hired it, think the guy who served me thought I wanted to break into a bank.
Yep the dust is immense like the Sahara. I now use a multi tool with a mansonary bit, it's slower but far less dusty. I cut the shape out with it to the depth and then chisel it out out an ads drill. I'll have to do a video on it.
Hilarious to read - thanks 😂
Any chance of the pipes freezing in the U.K. using this method?
Hi great video, do you have any advise how I could do this with a false plaster board wall?
how deep is the chase please ? thank you
About 25mm, just enough to cover the pipe. You cannot chase out more than 1/3 of the brick depth as it will affect the walls strength. So no more than 33mm
Does the pipe work go directly to your combi boiler
It comes from the kitchen downstairs where it T's off to the boiler and kitchen sink.
I’ve got a scenario where I have tile work that I want to keep. Could I chase up the wall for the pipe work and cover the back of a shower enclosure in 6mm backer board and match the tiles? The board would be mechanically fixed to the brickwork behind the existing tiles. Would this look like a cowboy job?
Great video bud, this is gonna come in handy im installing one of these in a few weeks. Quick question could I use speedfit for the whole fit or would copper pipe be a better choice?
Cheers 👍🏻
Hi, I'm no expert but if you have the same situation as mine then you wouldn't fit the pushfit elbows in the brick. As far as I am aware you can only channel out 1/3 of the brick depth (so 33mm) on a 100mm brick. And as it is buried in plaster a solder jointed copper pipe would probably be better than a pushfit anyway, just make sure copper is protected as the plaster will eventually eat through it.. If I had a stud partition wall behind the bath rather than a brick wall I would of done it all in PEX/speedfit. Good luck mate.
@@LCWDIY Right, copper it is then. Cheers fella, thank you for the quick response. 👍🏻
I've always wondered how plumbing (especially DWV) is installed in houses made of 100% brick. In the U.S our walls are hollow so wires and pipes can run through, but how can you run DWV pipes in brick walls (especially horizontally) . That's always been my question and I can't seem to find an answer.
A lot of the UK new build houses are made with some stud walls (like your hollow walls) so it would be the same as the US. But most of these old houses are brick and usually bathroom pipes are just surface mounted and boxed in with wood. I wouldn't want to chase out a long horizontal length, as I'm sure that would make a weak point in the wall, but I have seen some lead pipe in this house buried in the wall 10mm and then plastered over.
What's the actual bonding coat you filled it all in with?
Hi I just used British Gypsum Thistle Bonding Coat then covered with their multi finish plaster.
Hi , i have a question , why did you use copper pipe mix with plastic , instead use all plastic ? for me great looking job , i have to do bathroom myself looking for information tips and tricks , this video will help me a loot.
Copper is more sturdier to fix the mixer tap to and the 90 degree bend connections for plastic would never fit in the wall properly.
We've done the same but we have leaks grr
Hi good video, some great tips here. What mix did you use to plaster the pipes into place? Also are there any considerations for expansion and contraction? I'm just about to do a similar job but the wall is finished plaster and we will be tiling
I fixed it in place with bonding coat plaster and then used multi finish plaster over the top. The pipe has room to expand and contract inside the PEX pipe I put it in. You must put the pipe inside something to protect it as the plaster will eat away the copper pipe. Good luck with it. 👍
@@LCWDIY many thanks for the advice. I will have to use gaffer tape as not enough depth for a pvc conduit sleeve.
@@timstewart1416 Gaffer tape apparently has metal in it that will react with the copper, so shouldn’t be used. Denzo taoe is the thing to use.
Good job but should have spun the bath round the other way you are limited on a shower curtain that way round
very good well i thought it could be done the plumber told me no you need a hidden wall
Tell me, please. You do not use laser level. Why? Using it is more convenient to work.
Why use a laser level just to mark a couple of lines on a wall that don't have to be perfectly straight? To get the laser level out and set it up would take far longer than just using a spirit level. If I was running pipes up the outside of the wall I would of used a laser level to make sure they were perfect, but not for pipes being buried in the wall.
@@LCWDIY :)
In Russia, we always use the laser level, and our customers are very strict.
@@LCWDIY In another video, you mount a heating radiator and also without a laser level. :)
@@Своимируками-г4ц Do you sell laser levels by any chance?
Wonder how they built structures before lasers.were invented!?
Any freeze issues ?
No, none at all, the walls don't get that cold.
LCW DIY thank you. Your job came out nice. I like your channel
In the UK it’d be OK i believe, but other parts of the world you wouldn’t do channelling on an outside wall.
With copper pipe do you need to cover the pipe before adding bond coat?
Yes you do. I covered mine with thick gaffer tape. If you don't cover them the plaster will slowly eat through the copper.
Thanks but you could of just used a shower tap. 😂👍🚿
Probably costs 50p of electric to do a soldered joint.Torch and mapp gas is cheap enough.That white plastic and fittings looks horrendous.Try and stick with the copper.
Unless you're gonna spend 50 minutes going flat out with a 2kW heat gun, how is a joint going to cost 50 pence of electric?
it looks danger..he is breaking the brick wall which is a structural wall
The regs say you can cut 1/3 into the brick which is what that is. There is no danger.
Who's here because they have a shower in the basement