Building a SOLAR ROOF RACK (on your van) using 8020 extruded aluminum
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- A custom built roof rack on a Promaster van will better address your individual needs, rather than a store bought rack. I designed my rack to carry six 100 watt solar panels alongside two MaxAir fans and an air conditioner. I also left room for antennas for WiFi boosters and the like. And don't forget to subscribe for more innovative design ideas for your van build.
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#onahumbleroad
#customvanbuild - Авто та транспорт
The bolt, washer and the T-nut are all stainless. Since corrosion is localized at the contact point, the larger anodic surface area (anodized aluminum) as compared to the smaller cathodic surface area (ss washer and T-nut) will create a passive coexistence. Since the ss bolt threads are embedded in a like metal, ss T-nut, I don't anticipate any seizing.
What a timely video. I am currently designing my 80/20 roof rack for our van. I was concerned about the nuts and bolts but figured 80/20 used stainless. Guess not. Thanks George.
👍🏻🤓
George. Steel hardware = Loctite. SS hardware = Never Seize I like your rack but the profile bothers me a bit. Captures and holds water and solids. As an example,when hanging steel it was always toe down.
You’re Going to Get Dissimilar Metal Corrosion Between the Stainless Steel and Aluminum.
@@allenturin8847 Never knew about stainless seizing until working on a van. Crazy stuff. Still haven't figured out exactly which conditions cause it.
One builds, makes mistakes, undoes the work and corrects the mistakes. It's called life-long learning. Doesn't happen to those who no longer do stuff. Their learning curve flattens and life becomes dreary. Waiting for videos on the small van, Mr Humble Road !!!! My expectations are SO high.
Mini Me production will accelerate once I finish Sam's van.
When I'm not working with 80/20 I know I can stop by your channel and get my fill. Thanks George.
Any time!
Oh no. I have to change my hardware on my 8020 roof rack to stainless. Thanks for the tip. Enjoyed your video as always. Thanks George!
Yeah, seems counterintuitive that 80/20 would sell you this amazing weather-proof aluminum, and then throw in bolts that will rust out quickly. I guess 80/20 was traditionally always mostly for indoor use? Fortunately I discovered this issue on bolts under the van right before I started working on my roof rack. No huge disasters.
Always learning, modifying, and improving. The Humble Road mantra. ♥️
Everything happens for a reason 😊 If a pro can learn something new, and redo it, it’s an inspiration when it happens to us. All part of the customizing process. Great well built rack set up. Bravo!
I think anyone who has watched George for a while probably has the impression that he’s a solid, ethical guy. Well, here’s a perfect example of that.
@3:00 he says, “If I’d said ’no’ to them ... I’d have never learned about those rusty bolts and I would have had an issue here.” He didn’t say that his customer would have an issue long after the van was delivered - *HE* would have an issue. That’s a trustworthy custom van builder.
If I was in the market for a custom van and I lived in the US, I’d be on Humble Road’s waiting list.
Great work, George!
George. Who says you can’t work alone? As you grow your passion, knowledge, and business, I see a hoist in your future. You’re always thinking and I envision a few hoists in your future. 😀
I agree. I use a 4 post hoist to get under and a small forklift with a long flat platform to get out over and work on the entire roof.
I was thinking the same. A jib crane close to the door will be very useful for unloading stock and placing panels on roofs.
As my mama says, listen to that little voice. I was watching another UA-camr last week who had the same rust issues on their rack for the very same reason. Glad you can catch it before the van goes out the door.
Your attention to detail is amazing! I Love watching your videos.
Very tidy 👏🏻 I made my Ducato rack from 8020 but used the black 8020 and with black solar panels and a black Fiamma awning same model. It looks great and people don’t notice it especially at night while stealth camping in the city
I think it's a very good idea to use s/s fasteners on "any" outdoor assembly combined with Lanocote. This product is made with lanolin. That's the grease from sheeps wool. Excel. anti-corrosion, anti-seize, lubricant etc. Totally natural product that works! Especially, if you live near the sea. Comes in a spray can or as a pottle of grease.
This was an important vlog for me today George. I had decided on 8020 for my roof rack. I real wanted the Rhino roof rack system but it’s so expensive. Message to self; Stainless bolts, washers and T-nuts for roof rack. Cheers from Canader eh!
Glad I could help
So great that you make the rack neat, light, durable.
Your shop also (still) looks great, neat, well organized.
Thank you Rudy! But my shop is in bad shape! We moved in, dropped everything and went right back to work. When Sam's van is finished, then! Totally organize, add time saving features and clean up! Can't wait!
I had the same 3 month rusting issue on a roof rack I built on our sprinter as well from the 80/20 hardware. Had to replace it all and it was a headache! Good catch early on!
So jealous of Defining Adventure. I met Eric & Jen through another couple and their youtube channel. Nice people. Look forward to running into them on the road one day in our vans.
Also, great vid here. i have to make a custom roof rack for my van and was wanting to use 80/20, but wasn't quite sure the process. This vid helped a lot. Unfortunately, I've still got to make supports inside the van along the ceiling for the rack because it'll be a fiberglass roof I'm working with.
I have the same rolling scaffolding. But I used heavy ratchet straps crossed in X pattern to stiffen really makes a difference in stable feel.
It was divine intervention. AMEN 🙏
Thank You, great save to switch out bolts, im keeping on list
I love how universal the 8020 system is
3:40 Yep! Just whistle it in place, love it!
Have a great labor day and put your feet up!!👍👍
I would add a layer of Lanocote paste between the SS bolt and aluminum brackets. If they drive during winter or in seaside areas salt will get up there.
This van will live primarily in the deserts of the southwest. And with the "annual tighten up", any degradation can be addressed.
@@HumbleRoad cheers! I should have known you know what you are doing!
If you're particular about black fasteners, McMaster-Carr carries a series of 18-8 pan head stainless steel bolts that are coated with black oxide. You can easily find 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 that will work on 80/20 hardware, either Philips or hex drive.
I keep visualizing you doing a Ford for me, I love how this one's going. You are definitely sharing the vortex. Good job on catching this future nightmare. 👏
Nice. Clean, adjustable and rugged.
Dissimilar metal issues solved. Smart man
Hi George
Enjoyed your Rack Build Video !!
Thanks !!
I did an 80/20 roof deck with manual moving solar panels so I could use the deck. I used 12ft lengths of 40 x 120 on the sides and 40x80 across with decking all bolted with stainless
would like to see some pics of that
I have a question, setting up my first can build. Do you use the 80/20 10x10 or 15x15? Is 10x10 ok for interior/exterior, or is it to small for anything? TIA
well I did a 8020 rack with my nea320w solar... fit 2x and 2 sets on my roof.... now like you show... one person to lift is easy with those smaller ones... but omg bigger ones are harder.... omg thanks for the video.... shows that My system will work well....:) on my 03 workhorse... just got my batterys in too... :) thanks for the great video.... would love to sit and talk shop some day.... but can't wait to see what comes next... :)
George, I suggest bolting your solar panels to your 80/20 rails, then mount the rails to your roof rack using connections tall enough to go over your AC and Roof Vent. One flat Solar Array of eight or more 2' panels depending on van length. Make the Solar Panels the highest point on the van, no shade from other components disrupts the panels, and it provides shade to the roof. Mine works perfectly! I can do 80 mph and the solar panels are stable. Elevate the Solar array to accommodate the maximum amount of panels. You mentioned in a previous video you want more panels. It works!
does wind lead to excessive noise? just curious?
@@curtjohnson8309 I bolted four 100 Watt Renogy Solar Panels to Super Strut's ( Available at Home Depot and Lowe's ). I bolted the Super Strut's to the Roof Rack. No noise, and it provides shade to the roof.
“Gardian angel! …. there’s probably 2 or 3 of them watching after me…”. Belly laugh goodness! Thnx
I am always so impressed with he quality of your builds.
Hey George, thanks for the shoutout! I’m one of your guardian angels (although we are a team of seven, not four). We had a team meeting about that roof rack a couple of days before. At first, we thought it might be a good life lesson to let you fail on that one but then we all decided that it wouldn’t just affect you but all those UA-cam followers, who will make the same mistake. Anyway, keep up the good work George. Try not to keep us so busy-we can only do so much and would love to get a day off once in a while. Oh, sorry making you stub your toe the other day. That was a little guardian angel humor. We all had a good laugh up here!
😊❤️
Love the waltz music, vienese. Blessing the viewers stopped in to save the rack installation. Beautifull synchronization.
Make it where a second layer of panels can slide out and can be used as shade as well as more power!
Samantha. I had the same idea. Lower panels which slide out like an awning and can be angled up and down for the best sun angle. Maybe with an adjustable leg. Then a top layer which can tilt up with a motor. 2KW panels - easy.
@@ecoworrier yep
Boy, that was some masterful ladder-climbing technique. 😂🤣😂
🤣
Very inspiring one day i might build ONE
I see you managed to set up a bit of a scaffolding.
Here is not me saying you are old, but with age, we all struggle with easily getting up and down such straight scaffoldings.
Wouldn't it make sense to build one that fit the whole length of the biggest car and have it standing in one area, so whenever you need to work on the roof, you park the van next to that scaffolding?
Another thing, when working in heights, consider your safety and maybe connect a stair to the scaffolding, so you don't have to climb up the ladder.
It will also make it easier on you to bring things up and down. 🙂
Very clever design...
Nice video, roof racks have always seemed a bit confusing…good morning all!
Sweet, we got a shoutout (This is Eric and Jen)! Glad we could help. I’m going to switch ours out too! It was serendipity that we were allowed to visit. It was mutually beneficial.
always something of interest to think about
You should just put bleachers in the shop and let people buy tickets. No need to spend time with them, just put out a schedule and if you build it, they will come.
😀
Could mount a solar water tank on the other side. Cool build!
I've always been against using regular steel hardware in outside/wet conditions. Even zinc or galvanized or other 'anti rust' just doesn't stand up to the rigor. Use stainless A4 or AT grade or go for titanium hardware.
BTW I hope you also used stainless nuts and washers, not just bolts.
All stainless.
Really cool 👍🏼
I've about got all my stuff together to start my roof rack for my solar panels but I've thought long and hard about this because a rv roof isn't enough square feet to have enough solar to run everything all the time. Soooo I decided I'm gonna double stack my roof rack. The bottom will be stationary and the top ones will have actuators. So when I set my rv up, I'll push a button and engage the actuators and they'll fold out. So I'll have 6,400 watts of solar which is perfect. Can't ever have to much power 😂
Always captivating! You are the 8020 Master!
I always use stainless steel nuts, bolts, screws etc where ever possible inside and outside, stops any future potential rust problems.
I used stainless as well (M8) on my Transit.
Use the solar panels as an extending/tilking awning... Slide them off the roof, tilt down, boom. No need for an awning.
And then get fancy and have the tilt be via a computer controlled acme screw that can follow the sun when you're trying to maximize power generation. :-)
As stated before, ALWAYS use stainless on anything outside. Nuts and washers to. Ideally, lockouts with never seize on the threads. Blind holes should get a drop of blue loctite.
PS. with the solar panels covering the whole roof and even shades it to keep the heat off.
Yes!
Have you done your stacked (multi layered) solar system as of yet? Carpe diem and thanks
Hope that your stainless steel parts are AISI 316 otherwise with AISI 304 you get contact corrosion between stainless steel and aluminum.
Thanks!
Now I am concerned about stainless fasteners their shear strength is crap.15 yrs ago stainless was all the rage in the building/construction industry. They strip they snap they are not structural. A better solution will be AQC through galvanized ceramic coated fasteners. Just ordered my 80/20 catalog starting a build this fall. Nice roof rack Sir.
See my response @robertwayne
Have you ever given any thought to designing a solar panel slide-out system? Stack them on top of each other while traveling but when parked you could slide them out from each other. Save room and give you twice as much charging power. Instead of 400 watt, you could have 800 in the same area when stored.
You could use stainless steel drawer glides for corrosion resistance to pull-out and slide-in and locking system for when out or in.
As an added feature they could serve double duty as a shade and rain block when located over the slider door. Just food for thought. Haven't seen anyone else do this.
Yep, already seeing light surface rust on my t-nuts on top of my transit. I can reach them pretty easily and since they were a BEAR to install, I think I'll wait on replacing them. One huge pain in the rear is that as you slide a t-nut with a bolt installed along the 80/20 channel, they want to spin counterclockwise and UNSCREW themselves mid-roof...UGH! Huge pain to keep them from 'running' out and landing on the roof under the solar panels. That's why I'm waiting for a bit...good times.
A Hand Rail along Two Side (1 Long, 1 Short) of the Top of that Scaffold might be a good idea?
Even the tiniest bit of shade that falls over just a tiny part of one panel will dramatically cut energy production. A single leaf can destroy the output, and a railing that might shade the panels would be a poor idea based on that alone. Even that air conditioning housing kind of dictates that the van needs to be parked side-on to the sun so it doesn't shade the panels.
@@extectic My Comment is reference the Scaffold erected alongside the Van being used during Construction and has nothing to do with Solar Array.
lol right when the first shots started I literally thought, "what kind of bolts is he using on those rails?"
Depends where you’re at but I would always use stainless on exterior hardware. Stainless will still rust and corrode just not as fast. What you want is the nitride treated hardware it won’t fail. I would also powder coat those rails because aluminum will oxidize over time. If you’re by the coast a lot you’re gonna have rust quick on any vehicle though.
8020 is anodized. You cannot powder coat over anodized aluminum. It would have to be stripped off. Not practical.
@@HumbleRoad I’m not sure mine is, I know the black is but the silver ones I buy which are really 20/20 but same thing are not. Unless it’s silver. I have a lathe and a mill station made from them and I have all kinds of discoloration. Maybe from the chemicals and oils. Idk. What do you think about using the Raptor paint for exterior protection?
Raptor paint is heavy!
Hello, just a Little question. What’s size aluminium profile ? 30 x 30 ? Thanks so much for all. Very good job !!! From New-Caledonia
10series
Hey, i saw the work bench behind the one you were working on is sitting on top of what looks like legs that fills away like a beach chair. What brand are those legs?
Those are KREG tables
OK you are getting closer for what I’ve been trying to tell people for 10 years now. Take that solar rack go up even higher covering the top of the air conditioner, turn the panels longways and hinge on one side and put an air dam on the front to keep air from lifting panels up. The hinge is so you can get up on the roof and do maintenance you can even put hydraulic struts on it to hold him up out of the way. I hope somebody can use it someday. Because you can get solar the whole length of your roof.Or you can combined it like I seen that one van to where they slide out from underneath each other also.
Agreed
Have you ever mounted a 4-way camera system to an 8020 roof rack? I can't find any resources for mounting them.
I would make my own brackets.
This was a very informative video, thanks! I noticed that the AC unit is installed in the front and the Maxxair Fan in the rear on the roof. We are doing our own build, and are discussing the pros and cons of the placement of both units. Do you have a preference?
There are two Max Air fans in this build. The AC is as far away from the bed as the chassis would allow. The owner does not want the AC noise too close to him while he sleeps.
It would be so nice if you would include links to the individual products you recommend on the various stages. Thank you...
Brian, my livelihood is building vans. I have spent countless hours researching the products and materials I use. The information I provide in my videos is quite generous, but beyond that, I still need to make a living, can't give away the farm! I hope you understand.
Great job, thanks for the video. I wanted to get more into 80/20 and I look at it as an adult Tinker Toy. Since you've built this Solar Energy kit for a vehicle roof have you made one for a hybrid car to recharge the battery?
I charge my car when I get home as I have solar on our roof and it will get me to work. What I was thinking of doing is designing a detachable solar kit that I could attach to the roof when I get to work and remove it when I get home.. This will allow me to charge my car while I'm at work.
Has anyone done this?
Whenever there is a connection between steel and aluminum galvanic corrosion happens. The only way to stop this from happening is to stop contact between the two dissimilar metals. You may plasticize bolts or nuts. Loctite is also helpful.
Did you use Locktite on your bolt threads, or would it be better to use lock washer?
I use Locktite blue
George..I have been following you for past 2 years... great work...and u r an inspiration...but bro..I can feel u getting old ...so please add someone to help you out...take care
Thank you Jan. I think...
George - thanks for this video - curious question - what solar panels are you using in this build?
316 ss is marine grade, you must use something on the threads, locktite or anti-seez, stainless screws with the same stainless nuts have a tendency for galling.
Every thread gets blue lock tight
Got links where you purchased your 8020s and the L brackets that hold it to the van?
Direct from 8020
My biggest concern would be noise whistle or hum.
Stay tuned
Holy moly, that's a clean looking rooftop. Is it feasible to mount different sized (smaller?) solar panels in-between?
There is only a slight bit of room left for a smaller panel. However, while it has been done, I don't like to mix panels.
I shouldered a 75 pd Dometic up a ladder to my high roof transit.
One of the more unsafe things I’ve done.
fist bump
Hi, great job. You have inspired me to make my own. Can you confirm the size of 80/20 you used. I will also be attaching an awning. Thanks.
Are use both 10 series and 15 series depending on load
So, will changing to stainless help? Ever heard of galvanic corrosion? Two metals in contact will corrode: the highest on the galvanic scale will be fine but at the expense of the lower one. Originally the normal steel hardware was corroded away by the aluminium. By using stainless you will now corrode away your 80/20. Take it from a guy that has owned several aluminium landrovers…..
Working alone, I know how you feel, I am building my own home alone, a long story.
I've watched this 3 times and I still am not sure. Are the panels affixed only on the shorter sides, with bolts to the cross bars, or are they also affixed on the long outer edges? I saw you mention the angle and the drilling on the sides, but i cant see where the long edge is affixed on this rack? I am making a rack and my panels are wider than the track. Wondering if I can just affix the short sides of the panels and maybe a beam down the middle.
Thank you! My mom and I are the biggest fans!
All panels have a 1.25 aluminum angle along each long side. The angle is then bolted to the 8020 crossmembers on the roof.
I’m interested to understand why the panels and awning are mounted so high above the roof and not much lower and closer?
The air gap under the panels will keep the roof cooler. All the Land Rovers and Land Cruisers in Africa have a double roof for that very reason.
I just got my shipment of 8020 for my Ford Transit a couple of days ago and haven't pinned down a good, flat roof to rack mount so I can attach an awning. The one you used looked nice; will you share where you got those?
These racks are custom built in my shop.
Naive (?) question, but won’t the anodized layer on the 80-20 rapidly oxidize in this extreme outdoor use? Obviously it won’t rust, but corroded, pitted aluminum will weaken the structure and look bad..
Could those bars hold a rooftop tent and 2 people?
I’d have to test that…
Hi, is that a 6' scaffold? I'm doing a similar project but with strut channel stuff instead of 8020, but the position you get on your scaffold looks perfect for what I want to do.
Yes- Home Depot
You've maybe not b seen it but Thule do a smartclamp system for the Promaster.
Yes, very elegant, but it is proprietary. My build philosophy leans toward customization. A "one off" bespoke original.
hi where can i buy those unaka the black you show thanks
Would be nice without bridgeplates. Here in Germany we can order lengths until 6m of 8020.
Make sure whoever finds your crumbled, unconscious body on the floor under whatever you were hoisting up the ladder, uploads the video so we can all yell, "FOR G.D'S SAKE, GEORGE!!" lol
BTW, how does 80/20 rust? Isn't 80/20 aluminum? My aluminum Grumman canoe has been sitting outside since I bought it in 2000. ???
What series of 8020 did you use here? 4040? 15? Thanks and great video
10 series
Where did you get the roof mounting brackets? We are installing an 8020 roof rack as well
Unaka
Anybody have any good tips on roof brackets for Ford transit that accommodate the 3% pitch of the roof where mounting plate sits? I want to build my own rack but the roof mount cleats are the hardest thing. Thanks in advance (hopefully;)
Not sure if this comment will get removed again, but the folks at Flatline Van Co may sell a roof bracket. They have a complete roof rack system, and their quality is top notch, not sure if they just sell components, never hurts to ask!
Awesome setup! I want to build the same for our Ducato. Can you specify what the measurements are of these panels? I have to try and get the same in europe.!
Every time the wife gets frisky, in the back of my head I'm thinking "let weight be your co-pilot". Just never say it out loud. I'm 72 y/o, I'm doing fine, thank you.
😆
I didn't think you were meant to use Stainless Steel with aluminium?
Yep! its called Galvanic Corrosion. Maybe this doesn't apply to 80/20?
@@robertwayne3567 had a critical issue in a teardrop camper build I did 12 years ago… huge problem even beginning to separate screws, bolts and plates due to corrosion. The covered teardrop hinge I used on the kitchen reacted badly with the fasteners and sheared, didn’t notice till too late.
great video, as always! One question, are you considering the corrosion that occurs between dissimilar metals? You WILL get corrosion between the aluminum and the stainless steel unless they are not in physically touching each other. Less of an issue/concern in invisible areas, but you may want to consider using plastic spacers/washers wherever you don't want visible corrosion after a few months.
The bolt, washer and the T-nut are all stainless. Since corrosion is localized at the contact point, the larger anodic surface area (aluminum) as compared to the smaller cathodic surface area (ss washer and T-nut) will create a passive coexistence. Since the ss bolt threads are embedded in a like metal, ss T-nut, I don't anticipate any seizing.
@@HumbleRoad OK! FWIW, I know you will cover it in a future video IF any problem develops. This is part of what I admire about you and your work. Love your builds.
@Chris Hopefully. But Ford also hoped there would be no issues with their stainless valve stems on their Alcoa clone coated aluminum wheels on their Super Duty trucks, and there's been a lot of corrosion issues reported by unhappy owners.
@Chris Believe me, I know. I'm living in a commercial built RV while traveling around the country (since 2017). My question to George was because I know how fastidious he is about cosmetics, design, build integrity, etc. 99% of people will not care less.
Correct, Chris.
Hi George always impressed with your attention to detail so I was sadly surprised to see the dodgy way you loaded the panels into the roof, thought with all your gadgetry that you would have used a winder lift or at least an assistant. 😜
No worries
I had the same thing happen to my 80/20 bolts... a few of them rusted in a matter of months. It wasn't all of them though which I found odd. Maybe the coating had a defect on some? I was just trying to figure out what size/length SS to get. which size did you use?
5/16-18
@@HumbleRoad thanks!
@@HumbleRoad Damn it, all in inches..pitty only americans understand that shit...
@@arcenciel2968 some Americans need to use both imperial and metric, I have to take m to feet and Kg the pounds all the time. You still have some places drive on the left and others drive on the right. You have miles per hour in the same place with Kg. We just learn to live with each other’s differences. You need to understand until recently the ease of international information wasn’t as easy to get. Now for your soo hard conversation that you don’t need because in other countries extruded “aluminum” is sold in metric, not in imperial. 5/16 is about 8mm and -18 is how we measure pitch, but how we do it is rotation per inch or 25 mm, so the screw rotates 18 times per inch or 25 mm. So for you just get a 8 mm bolt and match the pitch to the 8 mm hardware.
@@marinefoxalpha4499 I understand, all this is fine. However, metric applies to all the world (with very few exceptions). Propeller pitch and tube diameter comes to mind as these exceptions. For the rest, the majority, its only metric. It makes no sense to anyone in the world, except perhaps to old people in the commonwealth countries which used the imperial system before they too converted to metric. The only country left with this old imperial system is the usa. I bet when the Chinese take over as the no 1 economy (whether we like it or not), the us will understand that their measuring “language” will be obsolete. It is to the advantage of americans to start getting used to it ...the earlier the better. I personally refuse to even discuss imperial, if a producer doesn’t talk metric I just move to the next one who does. This debate (imp vs metric)is not even up for discussion anymore. Good day.