I built my van about 4 years ago with 80/20. I used 1515 series for everything, I haven't had to tighten anything in 4 years, I didn't use lock tight. I was amazed how tight everything was when I built it and everything comes out square with 80/20!! There is a small learning curve but it's really simple!! I still have zero squeaks or rattles.
I designed my stealth camper using extruded aluminium for everything upper cabinets and all I have used some wood to slide into the slots in the aluminium.for facing doors and panels I used sheets made from a plastic faced on both sides with aluminium. Now 8 years of constant use. Still like new. I'm very thankful for a skilled builder for putting everything together. As I am becoming more infirm my needs have changes and I would like some alterations. The adaptability and re-usability of the aluminium will enable this . I'm thrilled to have found your website. And will follow your open minded, yet cautious approach
I believe what you are saying about weight for the way many people would construct cabinets, but not with this one guy. He takes cabinet construction to a new high with thin material that is glued everywhere and constructed in such a way that there is strategic reinforcement in the directions the thin wood could not stand up to stress like bending or twisting. It's amazing the knowledge and experience he has gained in building very light-weight cabinets this way. His UA-cam channel is called “Project of Science” and the tile of the video is called “Van Conversion Cabinets that are (actually) Lightweight and Maximize Storage”
Just about to convert a VW Crafter 4Motion and I have found that your channel is the most informative. Will definitely be using extruded aluminium for my build. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, very informative video, have not decided if I want to tackle a van conversion yet. I have experience with wooden boat building and other mechanical occupations but I am 79. I still enjoy seeing and hearing about how you go ahead and do your conversions.
I use 2020 series in my build. it's plenty strong, cheaper and lighter than 1010. For cabinet skins, I use 1/4" Baltic Birch. Doors and shelves, I used 3/8".
Good video. Another cabinet/enclosure framing material to consider is 3/4" steel tubing. Same weight per foot as 10 series 80/20, takes up less space (3/4" vs 1"), no restrictions on angles, and is significantly less expensive. On the downside, more labor/skill required to weld, steel can rust and should be painted, and making adjustments/changes is messy with the cutting/grinding required. If you don't already weld, it's a great excuse to buy a wire-feed welder and learn something new.
Thank you for creating what I think is the single most practical and complete end-2-end video on 80/20. I can't wait to watch your other videos, particularly regarding the uppers. I'd also very much appreciate your thoughts on wall framing and to what extent you use 80/20, if any, in the walls. Please continue to add such great content.
I'm purchasing a new Chevy Express cargo van for my business. I'd like a design that would allow me to make a simple set up to also use it for camping. I'm thinking 8020 for the wheel wells, them having removable rails I could slide a piece of plywood on for a mattress to sit on.
Was any thought put into where those long straight “spears” of aluminum would go in the event of a rear collision. I’m in the planning stages of a full size van, and am trying to design crumple zones to prevent the driver and passenger from being impaled in the event of a rear end collision.
Thinking ahead, especially with millions of 3rd world drivers flooding the USA. I got slammed in the rear a year ago, and when I pulled over, the driver just sped off. CHP just laughed and said this happens all the time now.
We do include toe kicks. We just raise the front bar about 4" off the floor. Then we make a small box out of wood, attach it to the floor 4" back from the front of the galley, and then attach a 1/4" panel to the box that matches the cabinets.
after a few months am i tightening up screws again to keep it from falling apart? thats my concerns i can always make wood weight less but this stuff looks fun and easy but again i dont want it to shake apart on me
Ok i don't know if I'm stupid or just missed it but you said you would a Say at the end what company you use for your aluminum and you didn't say the name. Or i missed every time i watched. So what is the name cause I don't see a link to the extruded aluminum down below. Thanks. Great information
Great video!! As a custom woodworker, I was planning on building all wood cabinets, because that's what I'm used to. But, you bring up some good points in favor of extruded aluminum. Question: do you use a material between the aluminum and van metal, to help prevent thermal transfer?
Love the content I just got my Sprinter Van and everything I would be doing is inspired by your videos. Would you refer me to any videos that you might have made where I can see the step by step on how you mount these frames into the wall of the van and the floor?
Again, great video! When you were showing the black panels that you were using to cover the extruded aluminum for the plumbing box, what material were you using for that? I checked the materials list and couldn’t find what it might be? Also, I see that you are using black screws for a more finished look but how do you finish where two of the black panels meet? Maybe, I will see the answer when I watch your other videos?
Hi Jeff great video watching from the uk over here we can only really get 20mm x 20mm or it’s up to 30x30 would the 20x20 still be strong enough for everything apart from the bed?
I agree with another commenter, I'm always weighing up how will 'this or that' react in a crash. I'd rather metal bend than wood splintering off. This could be definitely incorporated into my van. I've configured my contents so that I'm using only the manufacturers pre-drilled holes with those specific van screw plugs.
Hi, one of my main concerns for building out a van is how it will hold up during a crash. The thought of heavy objects acting as missiles during a crash gives me the ebbie jebbies. 8020 seems to be the best way of mitigating the risks but I could be completely wrong, any thoughts?
@@Artmac375 hi, it’s a compromise either way I believe. The 80/20 is a stronger fixing I think mitigating the risk of it become a projectile but if it does come loose then it is likely more dangerous as a missile. My main reason thinking it is more safe is around securing heavy cargo like batteries but this is why I raised it as I’m not sure which is the best approach.
I think it’s fairly clear that Alu framing is stronger. However, it does use up more space, than just plywood. Especially in a Sprinter that is already narrow, losing 2”+ of width is a lot.
True, but you're only loosing it along the edges and corners where the framing is. The rest of the interior has the full volume extending to the wood panels. We often have components like water heaters, hoses, wiring, etc. extend all the way to the wood panels. Also, with no back on most of the cabinets, you gain space in the rear. We don't really find that you lose space with the aluminum framing.
@@thrivans Thanks for making such great video! I have a question regarding mounting 8020 cabinets - Do you mount the battery cabinet or the water tank to the floor, down to the van sheet metal, or nothing and only bolt them to the van's side wall with rivnuts? Thanks!
No. We believe a van needs to breathe. They are not made to be air tight. A good insulation material will moderate the moisture in a van, retaining the moisture when humidity is high and releasing it when the air is drier.
@@thrivans when someone asks about vapour barriers you know they've watched too many UA-cam videos on van building!! The best thing about 80/20 is you have a lot of area that is open and there's airflow.
It is called Hex Ply, or Riga Heksa. It is Baltic Birch with a phenolic resin laminate on both sides. We order it directly from the supplier, but you have to order a whole pallet. You could check with local lumber suppliers.
Hey Jeff - Apologies if I missed it in this video or in the others that you've published, but what size fasteners do you use on the extruded aluminum? Is it a 1/4 20 or 6 mm? Thanks!
@@thrivans My concern about bolting the Al directly to the body is the heattransfer in cold conditions. Doesn´t the 8020 get cold, what about condensation on the cold metal? And what about contact corrosion? Other builders put at least a layer of rubber in between or bolt the Alu into wooden beams, that are glued (or screwed) to the sheet metal of the car.
We do put a spacer between the aluminum and the wall of the van. We make these spacers on a 3D printer. When I spoke of a ground, I meant the bolt that goes through the aluminum and into the wall.
If you are using extrusion to make a frame you can use a thinner sheet so you make weight savings there. I can't see why you'd use the same thickness of sheet for panels that are not structural. Thats madness.
100%, the structural strength comes from the 80/20 box.. 12mm or less plywood would be perfectly fine to finish it out depending on panel span and what’s being stored inside the box.
The 8020 name has absolutely NOTHING to do with the size of the extrusion. It is a reference to the Pareto principle that 80% of the benefit comes from 20% of the work.
Sorry, but listening to you for half an hour, telling us about your aluminum frames with these advantages and some disadvantages is of absolutely no interest, to the extent that you do not show its implementation and its different methods of use. I'm skipping..!
I built my van about 4 years ago with 80/20. I used 1515 series for everything, I haven't had to tighten anything in 4 years, I didn't use lock tight. I was amazed how tight everything was when I built it and everything comes out square with 80/20!! There is a small learning curve but it's really simple!! I still have zero squeaks or rattles.
Hi.
By 15 series you metric (15mm) or imperial (1½ inch)?
Thanks in advance
@@TheShadowVortX1 1/2 inch
@@bjbhehir thanks!
Great video. One question. Doesn’t tightening a year later break the Loctite seal?
I designed my stealth camper using extruded aluminium for everything upper cabinets and all
I have used some wood to slide into the slots in the aluminium.for facing doors and panels I used sheets made from a plastic faced on both sides with aluminium. Now 8 years of constant use. Still like new.
I'm very thankful for a skilled builder for putting everything together.
As I am becoming more infirm my needs have changes and I would like some alterations. The adaptability and re-usability of the aluminium will enable this .
I'm thrilled to have found your website.
And will follow your open minded, yet cautious approach
I believe what you are saying about weight for the way many people would construct cabinets, but not with this one guy. He takes cabinet construction to a new high with thin material that is glued everywhere and constructed in such a way that there is strategic reinforcement in the directions the thin wood could not stand up to stress like bending or twisting. It's amazing the knowledge and experience he has gained in building very light-weight cabinets this way. His UA-cam channel is called “Project of Science” and the tile of the video is called “Van Conversion Cabinets that are (actually) Lightweight and Maximize Storage”
Thanks for the heads up on that channel, I'll check it out.
Just about to convert a VW Crafter 4Motion and I have found that your channel is the most informative. Will definitely be using extruded aluminium for my build. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome. Thank you, and good luck with your conversion.
Thank you, very informative video, have not decided if I want to tackle a van conversion yet. I have experience with wooden boat building and other mechanical occupations but I am 79. I still enjoy seeing and hearing about how you go ahead and do your conversions.
I use 2020 series in my build. it's plenty strong, cheaper and lighter than 1010. For cabinet skins, I use 1/4" Baltic Birch. Doors and shelves, I used 3/8".
Excellent explainer about wood vs extruded van build outs. Good philosophy on the two as well. 👍 Rock on 🙂.
Thanks, you too!
Best campervan building tips I seen to date! Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Great information with tech plus tools needed. Thank you.
Great Video. About to start on a 2024 Ford Transit HR EXT AWD.
Good luck!
Good video. Another cabinet/enclosure framing material to consider is 3/4" steel tubing. Same weight per foot as 10 series 80/20, takes up less space (3/4" vs 1"), no restrictions on angles, and is significantly less expensive. On the downside, more labor/skill required to weld, steel can rust and should be painted, and making adjustments/changes is messy with the cutting/grinding required. If you don't already weld, it's a great excuse to buy a wire-feed welder and learn something new.
Thanks for the info!
im building a tiny home and found this video at the RIGHT time
This is some of the best objective advise I have come across, thank you so much for putting this in excellent perspective.
Excellent primer on 8020. Many thanks from the UK
Thank you for creating what I think is the single most practical and complete end-2-end video on 80/20. I can't wait to watch your other videos, particularly regarding the uppers. I'd also very much appreciate your thoughts on wall framing and to what extent you use 80/20, if any, in the walls. Please continue to add such great content.
Would love to see how you make the bed from it.
I'm purchasing a new Chevy Express cargo van for my business. I'd like a design that would allow me to make a simple set up to also use it for camping.
I'm thinking 8020 for the wheel wells, them having removable rails I could slide a piece of plywood on for a mattress to sit on.
Playing some catch up of fave YT channels. Excellent as usual, Jeff! Thanks for sharing the tips and your expertise.
Thanks for watching!
You know the T-slots in these, how much load can they take before snapping out the profile or the T-nuts failing?
Thank you. Love you’re videos
Was any thought put into where those long straight “spears” of aluminum would go in the event of a rear collision. I’m in the planning stages of a full size van, and am trying to design crumple zones to prevent the driver and passenger from being impaled in the event of a rear end collision.
Thinking ahead, especially with millions of 3rd world drivers flooding the USA. I got slammed in the rear a year ago, and when I pulled over, the driver just sped off. CHP just laughed and said this happens all the time now.
Are you accepting projects? How do I get a quote? Awesome cool new Brightdrop Zevo 600. Can share specs.
This is awesome guidance! Do you include toe kicks in your cabinets? If so, what guidance do you have for making that design workable.
We do include toe kicks. We just raise the front bar about 4" off the floor. Then we make a small box out of wood, attach it to the floor 4" back from the front of the galley, and then attach a 1/4" panel to the box that matches the cabinets.
after a few months am i tightening up screws again to keep it from falling apart? thats my concerns i can always make wood weight less but this stuff looks fun and easy but again i dont want it to shake apart on me
Ok i don't know if I'm stupid or just missed it but you said you would a
Say at the end what company you use for your aluminum and you didn't say the name. Or i missed every time i watched. So what is the name cause I don't see a link to the extruded aluminum down below. Thanks. Great information
The link is in our google sheet. Link in description.
Thank you for the video. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!! As a custom woodworker, I was planning on building all wood cabinets, because that's what I'm used to. But, you bring up some good points in favor of extruded aluminum. Question: do you use a material between the aluminum and van metal, to help prevent thermal transfer?
Thanks. Yes. I make spacers on a 3D printer that go between the aluminum and the walls of the van. You can use composite shims or even 1/4” plywood.
@@thrivans Thanks
Love the content I just got my Sprinter Van and everything I would be doing is inspired by your videos. Would you refer me to any videos that you might have made where I can see the step by step on how you mount these frames into the wall of the van and the floor?
Thanks for viewing our channel. We currently don’t have any videos on how to secure the cabinets to the van, but we’ll try to do one soon.
great videos.
Again, great video! When you were showing the black panels that you were using to cover the extruded aluminum for the plumbing box, what material were you using for that? I checked the materials list and couldn’t find what it might be? Also, I see that you are using black screws for a more finished look but how do you finish where two of the black panels meet? Maybe, I will see the answer when I watch your other videos?
The wood is called Hex Ply. We buy it from a local supplier. We cover the edges with angle aluminum.
Hi Jeff great video watching from the uk over here we can only really get 20mm x 20mm or it’s up to 30x30 would the 20x20 still be strong enough for everything apart from the bed?
I don't have experience with these, but I would imagine that the 20mm would be fine as long as it's not supporting a lot of weight.
I liked your video. Very interesting information.
You said that you would link to a bunch of stuff in the description but I cant seem to find it. Anyone know what company he is using for his aluminum?
There's a link to a Google sheet. All of our products are listed there.
I agree with another commenter, I'm always weighing up how will 'this or that' react in a crash. I'd rather metal bend than wood splintering off. This could be definitely incorporated into my van. I've configured my contents so that I'm using only the manufacturers pre-drilled holes with those specific van screw plugs.
Agreed!
How is the sound deadening of extruded aluminum VS wood? I wonder if it rattles more. Thank! Great video
I don't notice a difference. No rattles with aluminum if installed properly.
Why not use lego, titanium, or dwarven mithril for your carcases?
How are they mounted to the van?
Hi, one of my main concerns for building out a van is how it will hold up during a crash. The thought of heavy objects acting as missiles during a crash gives me the ebbie jebbies. 8020 seems to be the best way of mitigating the risks but I could be completely wrong, any thoughts?
Yes. I totally agree. Although I don’t have crash data, having constructed using both methods the aluminum is much stronger.
@@thrivans hi, thanks for the response.
I wonder if that aluminum would become a spear during the crash
@@Artmac375 hi, it’s a compromise either way I believe. The 80/20 is a stronger fixing I think mitigating the risk of it become a projectile but if it does come loose then it is likely more dangerous as a missile. My main reason thinking it is more safe is around securing heavy cargo like batteries but this is why I raised it as I’m not sure which is the best approach.
Excellent video, thank you!
Can your panels be set into the grooves of the 8020?
What is the term for 8020 rails that don’t have grooves in all four sides?
Bi-slot or tri-slot.
I have been checking out your videos, good stuff. Do you consult on a Ram Promaster?
I have not worked on a Promaster, so if you have questions specific to that van, I’m probably not the best person to ask.
@@thrivans Thanks, you have some awesome how to videos. Will use them as a reference. Thx
He said a couple times that he would link his supplier in the description. I don't see it, maybe I missed it, but can anybody help out?
It's in a google sheet with all of our build materials. Link is in the description.
Great video thx. What is the plywood called with the black face on it that has the small dimples ?
Hexply
I think it’s fairly clear that Alu framing is stronger. However, it does use up more space, than just plywood. Especially in a Sprinter that is already narrow, losing 2”+ of width is a lot.
True, but you're only loosing it along the edges and corners where the framing is. The rest of the interior has the full volume extending to the wood panels. We often have components like water heaters, hoses, wiring, etc. extend all the way to the wood panels. Also, with no back on most of the cabinets, you gain space in the rear. We don't really find that you lose space with the aluminum framing.
what flooring do you use? is that vinyl plank or full sheet? TIA.
They are planks. We use Aquaguard from Floor and Decor. Best LVP flooring we've found.
@@thrivans Thanks for making such great video! I have a question regarding mounting 8020 cabinets - Do you mount the battery cabinet or the water tank to the floor, down to the van sheet metal, or nothing and only bolt them to the van's side wall with rivnuts? Thanks!
@@thrivans thank you!!
Not really a comment more of a question. Do you install a vapour barrier on the walls etc?
No. We believe a van needs to breathe. They are not made to be air tight. A good insulation material will moderate the moisture in a van, retaining the moisture when humidity is high and releasing it when the air is drier.
@@thrivans when someone asks about vapour barriers you know they've watched too many UA-cam videos on van building!! The best thing about 80/20 is you have a lot of area that is open and there's airflow.
Absolutely!
Swivel Head Micro - search that if your looking for the wrench
I can't find the 8020 company you suggested, here in the comments!
The link is under "Extruded Aluminum".
@@thrivans found it, Thank You!
where can you purchase the black hex board panels, you're using for your utility cabinets? Is this birch plywood with a laminate covering material?
It is called Hex Ply, or Riga Heksa. It is Baltic Birch with a phenolic resin laminate on both sides. We order it directly from the supplier, but you have to order a whole pallet. You could check with local lumber suppliers.
@@thrivans Thank you for responding! I'm very impressed with your channel, work and help to DIY'ers.
Hey Jeff - Apologies if I missed it in this video or in the others that you've published, but what size fasteners do you use on the extruded aluminum? Is it a 1/4 20 or 6 mm? Thanks!
Not sure which fasteners you’re asking about. The ones for the brackets? Those are all 1/4” for 10 series aluminum.
@@thrivans 👍 that's what I meant; is 10 series usually constructed using 1/4-20 rather than m6 unless there's a compelling reason to go with metric?
Do you ground the aluminum? I only see it done rarely, is it necessary and if so when and where?
We don’t ground the aluminum specifically, but it is bolted to the metal walls of the van, creating a ground.
@@thrivans My concern about bolting the Al directly to the body is the heattransfer in cold conditions. Doesn´t the 8020 get cold, what about condensation on the cold metal? And what about contact corrosion? Other builders put at least a layer of rubber in between or bolt the Alu into wooden beams, that are glued (or screwed) to the sheet metal of the car.
@@thrivans Thanks so much for your reply!
We do put a spacer between the aluminum and the wall of the van. We make these spacers on a 3D printer. When I spoke of a ground, I meant the bolt that goes through the aluminum and into the wall.
We should start calling them "extrusions". Much easier to say than "extruded aluminum" every time 🙂.
Do you use loctite blue or red?ok you answered it later in the video!😂
…I’m just filling your Chat for you!😂 lol
how about foamlite panels?
Haven’t tried those.
If you are using extrusion to make a frame you can use a thinner sheet so you make weight savings there. I can't see why you'd use the same thickness of sheet for panels that are not structural. Thats madness.
Great 101 👍🏼
Thank you 👍
I never understood the idea of building a cabinet using 80/20 then cover it with 19mm birch plywood...
Same logic as a concrete building having metal rebar inside.
100%, the structural strength comes from the 80/20 box.. 12mm or less plywood would be perfectly fine to finish it out depending on panel span and what’s being stored inside the box.
Metal is better. Aluminum and acrylic are far more durable and lightweight than most wood.
The 8020 name has absolutely NOTHING to do with the size of the extrusion. It is a reference to the Pareto principle that 80% of the benefit comes from 20% of the work.
Con: 8020 is Very expensive!
Sorry, but listening to you for half an hour, telling us about your aluminum frames with these advantages and some disadvantages is of absolutely no interest, to the extent that you do not show its implementation and its different methods of use. I'm skipping..!