Pull your first stud to 15”3/4 then pull 16”. That way your 4’ sheet goods always land on the center of a stud, maximize your material use, less cutting.
@@pruddz6734 most beginners think that mate. Read fire safety rules to get more insight. Also the studs were close enough to be sturdy on their own, let alone with plates on both side.
Basically you’re 2x4 stud is 1.5 inches thick, and you want the center of it to be dead-on at 16 inches from the last stud. So, you either mark it at 15.25 or 16.75 (three quarters of an inch either direction), and put the edge of that stud on the mark, that way the center will be dead on at 16.
How much weight would you say a nonbearing wall can support? For example, if a client wants some heavy cabinets to be hung from the wall. If everyong is mounted into the studs, how many pounds can a nonbearing wall support?
Your supposed to mark every 15 and a quarter" . 16 on center, always. Boards these days arent true 2"/4" SO you will find if you mark it as a 2 by 4. None of your work will be on center. The reasom you go 15 and a quarter is 2/4s these days are 1.5"by 3.5". Half the width of the board is 1.5. Divide that in half(we just call it splitting the difference.) You take 0.75" from center is where your board will sit so you mark a quarter inch less than the red marks on your tape. Which are every 16"
Also don't mark every 16" or everything u do will b wrong. Its 16 on center, you make 3/4 back from where 16 would be. Everything's on center. Mark your boards on the ground like he shows. Build them on the ground nail them down use the nails to pivot the wall in place. Nail it off finish your walls. Have someone come behind and finish fastening ur wall and do the blocking while you move onto the next wall. 4 people is ideal for a team, 3 is doable if everyone's really good. Take advil one day then aleve so you liver doesn't die. Ur gonna hurt, and by the time you get strong enough for it not to hurt. You'll hurt yourself. It's how it goes.
If you're in a basement or something probably not but it's for fire retarding. It does add somd sturdiness, but the main purpose of blocking is to "block" any potential flames especially when the stud bay goes through multiple floors. Without them any flames would just have a couple 2x4s (the head/foot plate) to burn through and then boom got a 16+ foot chimmuhnee
No you don't you mark 3/4 less than where 16 would be. So 15 1/4, 31 1/4 and so on.... This way everything is on center. It's literally just as easy as marking 16, u just mark back 3/4" it takes no more time to do it right.
@@BasicallyNomads Nope. 15 1/4 to side of stud for proper 16OC layout. A 2x4 is 3/4 wide to the middle, thus giving 16OC. Then 31 1/4, 47 1/4, so on and so forth. Hate to be the guy who follows you with drywall or sheathing.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 think about what you’re saying. You don’t actually mark where the center is when you frame. That would take too long to line up. You measure where the side of the stud will fall and make an x to show which side the stud falls on. This makes them all automatically 16 inch on center. If the left side is all 16 from center then the centers must be as well lol
@@BasicallyNomads I don't know how else to explain this any clearer for you. You are 100% wrong. Go look up some videos on how to do it, I guess. Its 15 1/4 from the end for 16OC. I'm not talking about marking centers, these measurements are all to the side of the stud. 15 1/4 plus half the stud (3/4 to center of 1.5inch) is 16OC layout dude. You're wrong. You should take this as a learning opportunity instead of arguing with me because after you look it up, you're going to feel stupid, I guarantee it.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 I’ve done it.. and he doesn’t do it here.. because it’s a waste of time to measure 15 1/4 when instead you just pull your entire tape and mark every red 16 increment.
4 feet ... whose feet? my feet? my mom feet? my neighbors feet? some long dead kings feet? Need some proper value exchange (what i even understand), but otherwise, nice video. feet (or foot?).. lol ... funny americans (and their medival measures) 16 inch -> 40.64 cm 4 foot -> 121.92 cm
Useless video that gives incorrect information… Nice that you built a section of wall for your video that you will never use for anything and added useless, blocking at 4 feet that’s completely unnecessary and you don’t tell people how to lay out the wall properly… Mark your first stud from the outside edge at 15 1/4, and subtract three-quarter of an inch from your 16 inch measurement/red mark on your tape measure for each next stud… Or explain that you are taking your measurements from the inside of that first stud. Then when you get to 4 feet or 8 feet on your wall, your sheet goods, plywood or drywall… Will land in the center of the stud where they need to be… Then you have room for the next sheet and something to nail to… Nice that you’re trying to educate people but learn how to do it right first… or you probably know know how to do it right but figure out how to explain it to people that don’t work in Construction… lumber is expensive… And now you’re viewers need to buy a sawzall to fix their mistakes that you taught them
Pull your first stud to 15”3/4 then pull 16”. That way your 4’ sheet goods always land on the center of a stud, maximize your material use, less cutting.
15 1/4!? the right idea
I love how you answer the whys as you go along... I always wonder why when learning something new
He didn't answer the why's, which are important. Why blocking for example?
He didn't answer the why's, blocking is for example is for? Fire safety.
@@2greenifyit’s to add stability to the wall mate not fire safety
@@pruddz6734 most beginners think that mate. Read fire safety rules to get more insight. Also the studs were close enough to be sturdy on their own, let alone with plates on both side.
@@2greenify you’ve said enough for me to know you aren’t very experienced, definitely isnt sturdy enough
When i pull layout i go back 3/4 of an inch from every 16 mark so 16 is dead center
As a newbie I have to ask if can you explain this further or clearer?
Basically you’re 2x4 stud is 1.5 inches thick, and you want the center of it to be dead-on at 16 inches from the last stud. So, you either mark it at 15.25 or 16.75 (three quarters of an inch either direction), and put the edge of that stud on the mark, that way the center will be dead on at 16.
😮WOW!! I spent 6weeks in training to learn that.#Good info. #Vids over courses #Straight to it
I have that same nailgun. Fantastic.
😝
Wow, this was so clearly explained and shown
This was easy thank you! For someone who can’t math, this was simple.
Why did I think this was Zak Bagans 😂.. jokes aside this was very helpful!!
How much weight would you say a nonbearing wall can support? For example, if a client wants some heavy cabinets to be hung from the wall. If everyong is mounted into the studs, how many pounds can a nonbearing wall support?
Awesome!
Awesome guide ty
Took way longer than 52 seconds to build that wall. The clock starts when you first touch the tape measure.
I’d like to see framing with a window, door and OSB board
Walking backwards while framing and marking the side of the plate
Try framing walking forward you don't trip and I'm my opinion it's more efficient
That looked like it took more than 52 seconds 👀
Your supposed to mark every 15 and a quarter" .
16 on center, always.
Boards these days arent true 2"/4" SO you will find if you mark it as a 2 by 4. None of your work will be on center.
The reasom you go 15 and a quarter is 2/4s these days are 1.5"by 3.5".
Half the width of the board is 1.5. Divide that in half(we just call it splitting the difference.) You take 0.75" from center is where your board will sit so you mark a quarter inch less than the red marks on your tape. Which are every 16"
Easy when you aren’t adding it into a house. How would you jam that into place in somewhere with 8’ ceilings?
Tips for someone who just started framing?
Work hard and be prepare for back pain, shoulder and hard work haha
Also don't mark every 16" or everything u do will b wrong. Its 16 on center, you make 3/4 back from where 16 would be. Everything's on center.
Mark your boards on the ground like he shows. Build them on the ground nail them down use the nails to pivot the wall in place. Nail it off finish your walls. Have someone come behind and finish fastening ur wall and do the blocking while you move onto the next wall.
4 people is ideal for a team, 3 is doable if everyone's really good.
Take advil one day then aleve so you liver doesn't die. Ur gonna hurt, and by the time you get strong enough for it not to hurt. You'll hurt yourself. It's how it goes.
@@RealName-ox9tkdamn sounds like youve done this for a long time. Carpenters dont get paid enough
Don’t shoot yourself with the nail gun, best tip I can give
@@patburns600 speaking truth there brother
I am doing a basement. Do you have detailed videos.
For all of you complaining he said he’s gonna show how to do it never said he’ll show you why, can’t hold your too long in a yt short buds.
That is called 3/4 said ahead otherwise known as quarterback layout 15 and a quarter for 16 on Center when hooking on...
And there's also other layouts 24 and go for rat runs past the first-layout and go etc...
Definitely understand layout...
IS BLOCKING ALSO A STAGGERED STUD TECHNIQUE AS WELL
Do you know about the black diamonds
Is the blocking necessary for a wall of say 8’6”?
If you're in a basement or something probably not but it's for fire retarding. It does add somd sturdiness, but the main purpose of blocking is to "block" any potential flames especially when the stud bay goes through multiple floors. Without them any flames would just have a couple 2x4s (the head/foot plate) to burn through and then boom got a 16+ foot chimmuhnee
If you want to meet code, yes
Forgot to mention lay studs crown down.
What do you do an weird numbered wall? Depending on which side you measure from they won’t be 16 on center?
You pick a side to have a shorter span
No you don't you mark 3/4 less than where 16 would be.
So 15 1/4, 31 1/4 and so on....
This way everything is on center. It's literally just as easy as marking 16, u just mark back 3/4" it takes no more time to do it right.
What about for window or door cutouta
…15 1/4 for the first stud after the end if you’re not adding a California corner…. THEN every 16”. You just taught people to be 1.5” off center…
No pt for the concrete to framing connection?
What tools?
How do you frame a 14’ wall
What was the purpose of your blocking I am new to framing thanks!
so the walls are more stable, it is not much support in the diagonal angle. support so the walls keeps the structure, and for the roof basically.
@@milo_1234 so putting those blocks in gives the wall more structure
What is the length of the blocks
What brand are those moc toes?
Zak Bagens 👻
😊
These guys should realize that novice aren't watching
I want that nail gun😅
Its a great one!!!
@@grantmaurybuilds what brand of nail gun?
@@alejandromiranda8489milwaukee cordlees framing nailer.
Just get bigger biceps using it. Ungodly heavy!!
Your channel please
When you say stud. do you mean a lesbian? lol
Except that youd mark 15 1/4 from the end....to get 16OC....not add a stud and then go 16. Lol
Negative.. you measure 16 off the end and that will give you side of your stud. That would make the sides (as well as the centers) 16 inches apart.
@@BasicallyNomads Nope. 15 1/4 to side of stud for proper 16OC layout. A 2x4 is 3/4 wide to the middle, thus giving 16OC.
Then 31 1/4, 47 1/4, so on and so forth.
Hate to be the guy who follows you with drywall or sheathing.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 think about what you’re saying. You don’t actually mark where the center is when you frame. That would take too long to line up. You measure where the side of the stud will fall and make an x to show which side the stud falls on. This makes them all automatically 16 inch on center. If the left side is all 16 from center then the centers must be as well lol
@@BasicallyNomads I don't know how else to explain this any clearer for you. You are 100% wrong. Go look up some videos on how to do it, I guess.
Its 15 1/4 from the end for 16OC. I'm not talking about marking centers, these measurements are all to the side of the stud.
15 1/4 plus half the stud (3/4 to center of 1.5inch) is 16OC layout dude. You're wrong.
You should take this as a learning opportunity instead of arguing with me because after you look it up, you're going to feel stupid, I guarantee it.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 I’ve done it.. and he doesn’t do it here.. because it’s a waste of time to measure 15 1/4 when instead you just pull your entire tape and mark every red 16 increment.
How bit to frame 😂
Wrong layout 😂
4 feet ... whose feet? my feet? my mom feet? my neighbors feet? some long dead kings feet?
Need some proper value exchange (what i even understand), but otherwise, nice video.
feet (or foot?).. lol ... funny americans (and their medival measures)
16 inch -> 40.64 cm
4 foot -> 121.92 cm
Why you guys using wood and not metal?
Good God, look at that leg tattoo. Scary. What went wrong?
I feel bad for people who have full leg tattoos. It must be hard to create an entire wardrobe around wearing shorts 365 days a year.
Useless video that gives incorrect information… Nice that you built a section of wall for your video that you will never use for anything and added useless, blocking at 4 feet that’s completely unnecessary and you don’t tell people how to lay out the wall properly… Mark your first stud from the outside edge at 15 1/4, and subtract three-quarter of an inch from your 16 inch measurement/red mark on your tape measure for each next stud… Or explain that you are taking your measurements from the inside of that first stud. Then when you get to 4 feet or 8 feet on your wall, your sheet goods, plywood or drywall… Will land in the center of the stud where they need to be… Then you have room for the next sheet and something to nail to… Nice that you’re trying to educate people but learn how to do it right first… or you probably know know how to do it right but figure out how to explain it to people that don’t work in Construction…
lumber is expensive… And now you’re viewers need to buy a sawzall to fix their mistakes that you taught them