please help me figure out whats going on i can use my dualsense in the ps5 menu but when i go on a game and its says press x to continue x doesn’t work on a game and on gamepad tester it shows L2 is being pressed down even when im not helppppo i have no warrenty😢
@@whodat4265 Watch a UA-cam video guide on how to take apart and clean the controller. While you're inside, check if there's any corrosion or other visible damage. Once all the buttons are cleaned out and thoroughly checked for damage, put the controller back together and test it again.
@@Box223 ok to took it apart and the trigger spring is fine and looks like the r2 side so the springs are good and theres no garbage like dust and stuff but still doesn’t work i tried also lifting the trigger hard and still nothing
It made me really happy to know youu haven't lost your passion. The best part of these types of videos is to here your excitement when you've fixed something you spent so much time on. I remember the ps4 you spent weeks trying to fix and not having much left in you to keep going, but at last you fixed it and were so happy. Always brings me good feelings watchung your videos, thank you.
The one thing i love about the mymatevince channel is the passion for fixing all and everything truly one of the most versatile repair channels on youtube
If you have a Dremel or other rotory tool, you should get some rubber bullet tips instead of the engraving tool. It will remove the solder mask, but isn't abrasive enough to take traces with it (under normal use). Either way, love the videos!
You keep saying you're not an expert/professional. But in doing what you're doing you're learning all the time and working towards that goal. I repair electronic devices, PCs, laptops and high-end comms equipment and have done for nearly 40 years. I think you're doing great and you have the right logical approach if not the experience yet. Love your videos, try not to cringe when I see you go about something "wrong". But that's how you learn. Keep going.
Fantastic Vince!!! Great stuff working that one out =D I would be tempted to go back to using a fibreglass pencil btw - that grinder is a wee bit aggresive lol! The fact that audio discs work, and games dont - my first thought is region, is it perhaps US or JPN? Alternatively some damage on the ribbon or its connection to the board?
Thanks Chris, great suggestions. Ribbon cable was checked for continuity off camera, well it was filmed but cut. It is testing ok despite the burning. Region is a great idea. I will find out how to check the region on these things. Maybe serial number will indicate that. Nice one 👍👍👍👍
Good shout Chris, I also thought Region, but looking back at the video it appears to be a VA9 revision board, so that's almost certainly PAL. Definitely will be worth looking at the ribbon, it did have some discolouration on one edge, so it's very possibly damaged...
@@StezStixFix Cheers Steve, ribbon cable tests OK for continuity. Shame about the region, but st least that means it might be fixable. I need to find out what chip is responsible for the security check and work from there I think. Maybe it is still linked to the corrosion 👍👍
@@Mymatevince I did a region mod on a Saturn a while back, it “might” be some help, although I had to follow two different guides to get it to work. I’ve got quite a few saturns in pieces, so if you need me to check for any spares you need, let me know and I’ll send them over if I have them 👍👍 Now time to watch the video 🥰
Another video, another comment at the top spoiling the outcome before it’s even been watched. No one’s fault but UA-cam, but there really should be a default way of stopping this for the video creators
Nice fix! Great find. Great when it's something simple like that and not an obscure chip! About the pots though for the CD drive, in any Disc based drive, never adjust the potentiometer by hand. These are tuned to the micro ohm and should be measured using your best possible multimeter or oscilloscope if you have one. The slightest tweak to them causes a huge change in resistance, enough to burn out the laser in some instances. That's why we call them "pot tweaks" :)
That the thing always use the Resistance mode to record the current value before tweaking the pot as the last thing anyone wants to do is tweaking it and not knowing what it was originally either too much or too little can kill the laser diode. Ideally the laser glass can be cloudy to the point where it could barely read the disc usually cleaning it with ipa and blow out the dust in behind the laser glass can help to a certain degree to get it working again as I done this method on phat ps2 had good success but the one that annoys me the most is the tilt screw on the drive closest to the back of the ps2 usually mark it with a blade but as it turned out the mechacon chip has a bug where it continued to kill the laser after too many time it attempted to read the disc there for ruining the chance of a laser replacement to make it work again. So the phat ps2 had to be softmodded/hardmodded to get around this problem
Nice fault finding and repair, still satisfying to watch faulty device coming back to life :) I wonder if the laser unit has some capacitors, maybe the corrosion to the motherboard came from there?
Great Video Vince! and great job on repairing those corroded tracks and VIA's. Would the fault with the disc drive have something to do those shorted pads? as that did look a little odd to me. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks Mick, I'm working on it again as I type. Just looking though some different options to try and work out what is going on. The blob is one of those options. Cheers 👍👍
23:15 it's always easier to remove enamel from magnet wire by starting at the cut end, because there's exposed copper there that will take the heat from your iron and burn off the enamel from the inside. I usually put a blob of solder on my iron, stick the end of the wire into it and slowly work it through, maybe adding flux if the solder starts to get lumpy. For something like this, I usually just strip a length of cheap 30 awg wire rather than bother trying to de-enamel magnet wire. For smaller sizes (34 or 38) I do use magnet wire because it's really all that's available.
Nice fix so far Vince, I did notice when you were working on the solder blob to the left about 8 o’clock from the solder blob there is TP95 & TP96 and C51 there looks like a long leg that could be shorted over from TP95 to C51 Thanks for the upload 😊
I see it Gary, that is from one of the crystals. The legs are a little long but they are not shorting. I've bent them over towards the left hand side just to make sure. Thanks for the suggestion mate 👍
Great video Vince. Watch your content here in Estonia 🇪🇪 I noticed some graphical scrambling when the console was booting. It may need a recap to be honest. I repaired a Japanese MK1 and the disc drive was really finicky until the recap, no issues once it was done Good luck with the next stage of the repair.
The disc protection is on the far outer edge of the disc on the Saturn, and a weak laser can struggle to read this edge. It's possible that you have a marginal unit that works on one machine but not the other. There are some pots on the PCB of the CD mech assembly and one of these controls the tracking - sometimes this can be brought into like making the discs work. If not, a modchip would likely fix the problem as that bypasses the protection. ETA although if a known good mech doesn't work then as others have said, it could be the region lock. Again a modchip (ahem) would help here 😁
I normally use a one stran of 16 gauge wire, then when put through the hole the solder will flow through the hole if you add a little flux and if it was multilayed you have more chance of joining the tracks in-between. I know this is only double sided but I find enabled wire for short distances is more trouble than it's worth.
Yes, maybe. Usually to protect the laser diode when working around It, It Is a good practice to short It out, since It Is very sensitive to static discharge and It could be dameged.
21:03 Hi Vince, was the trace below the letter F of FB9 any good, as looks like that may have been affected by the corrosion as well. Thought it might be worth a check. Cheers, Dan
Normally for top 3 issues with repairing old/new stuff is i've noticed.... 1 chips you can't buy. 2. track layers. 3. components like resisters and capacitors.
I have a Japanese Saturn that does the CD Player if I insert a game from a different region in it. You may want to double check that the board is a PAL board. Also, if you have a Sega Saturn Action Replay cartridge or Pseudo Kai cartridge you can boot games from other regions.
It could still be that solder blob across the 2 pins on the cable which you re-added, It could be the trace near the FB9 writing which was blackened underneath the solder mask.
Well spotted Mike, unfortunately for me that blackened trace is actually testing OK, I'm just working on the next video right now 👍👍👍 Cheers for the suggestions
@@Mymatevince no worries. Hope you get it sorted. My other concern was that some capacitors were replaced with incorrect values before you received it.
I had similar with a double layer motherboard, you were lucky, with the board I had, the corrosion had worked it's way between the layers and spread. A definite Vince no go With no signs of spillage or capacitor juice, this just might have been a dodgy board. Good video, can't wait for the follow up,
Great video! Glad you were able to fix it. I don’t know if you’ve already started in on the drive, but you might try an action replay or pseudo Saturn Kai cart if you have one. I have a Saturn that behaves similarly but launches games fine with the help of a psk cart.
Fairly interesting. I picked up a 2nd saturn, the white HST-3220 model...I knew when I bought it that it wasn't going to run, it DOES have power, but it won't broadcast anything, not even a black screen. I took the board out and it's super clean looking, no popped caps, nothing. I'm not even sure where to really begin since my tools are very limited, soldering iron, flux, wick, and a multi-reader that's about all I got in my arsenal. But my electrical knowledge is extremely weak, so dunno yet. Talked to a buddy of mine who's looking at a diagram of the saturn and he's gonna try and point some stuff out to me. The goal on this one was to restore it, but to put on a Fenrir ODE on it and put the working Saturn in a nice safe place so it doesn't burn out.
@Mymatevince Anytime, you have been doing this for many years Vince, and I love how you keep on trying, no matter what to fix items as most would get returned or go in the bin. They have a new lease of life, thanks to you. Keep up the great work, and love the content you provide to us. 👍
I feel the passion bit. You do something so long its so easy to lose the thrill. Probably why i have so many hobbies. I take a break, and when i get back the passion comes back. Just makes my life more expensive and my wife less pleased with all my hobbies lol.
Hello vince, over the summer holidays I want to get into this as a hobby, what do you recommend to get started in the basics of understanding the layout of a pcb and faultfinding. I have a basic understanding of electronics from my mechanical engineering course. And I’m ready to buy the appropriate equipment to get started. Thanks for your content 👍👍
Going from the switch killer to saturn slayer seems like a regression, but only in technology 😂. Well done! Looking forward to the next part. Suggestion: Check your 5vDC (I think) rail to the disk drive. Is it low? Does the DC voltage look dirty on an Oscope? Could indicate a bad filter cap. It may be a cause for why neither disk drive works in the Saturn as intended.
😂 Well I do feel like I am regressing in many aspects including my understanding of electronics! Good idea, I will check that out Shawn, nice one sir 👍👍
@mymatevince I had the issue of playing music but no game on my saturn. Sorted it by slightly adjusting the laser pot on the optical drive - only took a few minutes.
Sega Saturn is my favourite console. I’m 41 now but got this for Christmas on release. Great memory’s. Normally when the disc drive reads the audio tracks only it’s the laser. Can try adjusting the pot that’s directly on it. I’ve got spare replacement jvc lasers new in boxes as they don’t last long. Already replaced one on 1 of 2 of my consoles. Both model 2 versions
That doesn't explain why the drive works when swapped to another unit, as Vince implied. It shouldn't be the laser in that case, and likely something else on the motherboard.
Yes, I was going to suggest thin tinned-copper wire may be better here. You don't have the faff of trying to burn coating off, but you need to be careful of shorts.
the disc might be the wrong ' region ' as I have seen that on a working Saturn I used to own. It did not show an error, only audio on one disc, on another there was a splash screen for a different region disc. The other option is see if any working unit has the same ribbon cable to do a temporary swap in case there is other issues with the read head.
Good eye Vince! The corrosion inside the via was pretty RAD 😀and as suggested, try other games first before you do a deep dive why hat particular one isn't working.
Yes, it had such a nice colour, very vibrant 😂. Good call on the games, that is the only Saturn game I have at the mo, but I will buy another just in case it is working ok with others 👍👍👍
Did you check they are the same laser? Theres different variations and some will not work with other boards. I would clean the laser one more time witn some ISO and calibrate the pot little by little
Thanks AI, I'm working on this again now and that is the current conclusion I am coming to. I'm not finished yet, but I think the laser drive might have been swapped out 👍
It’s usually the heat sensitive PLL chip that causes the black screen issue and that custom chip cannot be replaced unless somebody make a replacement to bypass it. It’s a shame that nobody has done it yet. Or if your lucky maybe it’s bad traces, failed bios mod or bad caps or a bad psu. In your case replacing the JVC Optima 6 Laser or adjusting it should get it to play games again.
weak laser, although sometimes the spindle that holes the discs in can be pushed down too far and lifting it up slightly will help it out, likely just needs a new laser though.
There is a white pot on the disc drive. You need to turn it clockwise just a little bit and try again. There is a video on youtube that shows how to do it. You can find it searching "Sega Saturn not working. How to Replace the Laser", min (24 :57)
There are 2 pots on the disc drive that you have to adjust, the laser pot and the white pot on the board. You need a multimeter to adjust the resistance of the laser pot properly. You could start from 700ohm and then you can reduce the resistance by turning the pot until the laser reads the disc always. Then you can adjust the white pot manually to solve the issue of detecting the game as a audio cd, sometimes works. Check the video that I have mentioned before.
Loads of comments already, but I have seen something like this on the Sega CD . It was on incorrect region discs, is the region of the game different from the sega Saturn?
At 13:11 you can see the region jumpers which appear to be set correctly for Europe. You are trying a European disc right? The behavior you're seeing would be expected if you were trying a wrong region disc (it just recognizes as an audio CD, not a game). Could be that there's a broken connection in the region jumpers or maybe you have the wrong bios somehow?
The Main crystal clock and the CD drive crystal clock aren't "matching", this can cause those symptoms, maybe someone tried to change its video signal and only changed the X2 crystal, the crystal near the backup battery or the main crystal needs to be changed to so its frequencies will match. Source: Tried to convert a Pal-M Saturn to NTSC only Changing X1, no disc booted, took second crystal from donor Saturn, everything works. Check frequencies from working Saturn and compare with the faulty.
If you've put hours and hours in already, i understand the 'excitement' diminishes a bit. This Sega is a weird one, kinda curious! Almost looks like some region protection or smth, not playing the games but playing audio CDs just fine...
@@Mymatevince The corrosion was strangely in the middle, roughly where the disk drive is. Even though the disk drive is working in the other console could there be a problem with the connector in that area, could something have leaked on it, then through to those traces? Could a capacitor in that area, related to the disk drive, have leaked on to those traces?
I buyed broken saturn, i repaired the power supply it was connected to 220v and is 110v, i see 9v 5v and 3v en the pin out, the disc sping and read but the screen is black and i can see 2 slim lines vertical at the right blue and red, any ideas?
I would love to be able to solder I have a gamegear that needs to be recapped and now my Corsair HS70 pro headset the USB port on it crumbled and needs replacing but I cant do it and its been my favourite headset ever so I ended up ordering a refurbished one to try and save some money.
I'm sure this was a common fault where it played audio instead of the games and usually meant the laser lens was gubbed. Sometimes a clean with rubbing alcohol would work but normally needed a new laser
Spoiler Saver
Thanks for watching
please help me figure out whats going on i can use my dualsense in the ps5 menu but when i go on a game and its says press x to continue x doesn’t work on a game and on gamepad tester it shows L2 is being pressed down even when im not helppppo i have no warrenty😢
@@whodat4265 Watch a UA-cam video guide on how to take apart and clean the controller. While you're inside, check if there's any corrosion or other visible damage. Once all the buttons are cleaned out and thoroughly checked for damage, put the controller back together and test it again.
@@Box223 ok to took it apart and the trigger spring is fine and looks like the r2 side so the springs are good and theres no garbage like dust and stuff but still doesn’t work i tried also lifting the trigger hard and still nothing
@@Box223 what i mean by still nothing is l2 is still being pressed without me touching it
@@Box223also i cleaned with 90% alcohol and q tips and blew for dust
It made me really happy to know youu haven't lost your passion. The best part of these types of videos is to here your excitement when you've fixed something you spent so much time on. I remember the ps4 you spent weeks trying to fix and not having much left in you to keep going, but at last you fixed it and were so happy. Always brings me good feelings watchung your videos, thank you.
Thanks Dan, I remember that PS4 very well 😂👍👍👍
Wich micro solderstation you use and hot air station greetz David
The one thing i love about the mymatevince channel is the passion for fixing all and everything truly one of the most versatile repair channels on youtube
If you have a Dremel or other rotory tool, you should get some rubber bullet tips instead of the engraving tool. It will remove the solder mask, but isn't abrasive enough to take traces with it (under normal use). Either way, love the videos!
Yeah the abrasive rubber tips are the correct thing to remove soldermask, ie, I was cringing at the damage from that metal tip.
Do you have a pn or link please cant find them
@@flibble666 No links allowed on YT. Goo search the name.
You keep saying you're not an expert/professional. But in doing what you're doing you're learning all the time and working towards that goal. I repair electronic devices, PCs, laptops and high-end comms equipment and have done for nearly 40 years. I think you're doing great and you have the right logical approach if not the experience yet. Love your videos, try not to cringe when I see you go about something "wrong". But that's how you learn. Keep going.
Fantastic Vince!!! Great stuff working that one out =D I would be tempted to go back to using a fibreglass pencil btw - that grinder is a wee bit aggresive lol! The fact that audio discs work, and games dont - my first thought is region, is it perhaps US or JPN? Alternatively some damage on the ribbon or its connection to the board?
Thanks Chris, great suggestions. Ribbon cable was checked for continuity off camera, well it was filmed but cut. It is testing ok despite the burning. Region is a great idea. I will find out how to check the region on these things. Maybe serial number will indicate that. Nice one 👍👍👍👍
Good shout Chris, I also thought Region, but looking back at the video it appears to be a VA9 revision board, so that's almost certainly PAL. Definitely will be worth looking at the ribbon, it did have some discolouration on one edge, so it's very possibly damaged...
@@StezStixFix Cheers Steve, ribbon cable tests OK for continuity. Shame about the region, but st least that means it might be fixable. I need to find out what chip is responsible for the security check and work from there I think. Maybe it is still linked to the corrosion 👍👍
@@Mymatevince I did a region mod on a Saturn a while back, it “might” be some help, although I had to follow two different guides to get it to work.
I’ve got quite a few saturns in pieces, so if you need me to check for any spares you need, let me know and I’ll send them over if I have them 👍👍
Now time to watch the video 🥰
Another video, another comment at the top spoiling the outcome before it’s even been watched. No one’s fault but UA-cam, but there really should be a default way of stopping this for the video creators
Nice fix! Great find. Great when it's something simple like that and not an obscure chip!
About the pots though for the CD drive, in any Disc based drive, never adjust the potentiometer by hand. These are tuned to the micro ohm and should be measured using your best possible multimeter or oscilloscope if you have one. The slightest tweak to them causes a huge change in resistance, enough to burn out the laser in some instances. That's why we call them "pot tweaks" :)
That the thing always use the Resistance mode to record the current value before tweaking the pot as the last thing anyone wants to do is tweaking it and not knowing what it was originally either too much or too little can kill the laser diode. Ideally the laser glass can be cloudy to the point where it could barely read the disc usually cleaning it with ipa and blow out the dust in behind the laser glass can help to a certain degree to get it working again as I done this method on phat ps2 had good success but the one that annoys me the most is the tilt screw on the drive closest to the back of the ps2 usually mark it with a blade but as it turned out the mechacon chip has a bug where it continued to kill the laser after too many time it attempted to read the disc there for ruining the chance of a laser replacement to make it work again. So the phat ps2 had to be softmodded/hardmodded to get around this problem
Agreed, I’ve just restored an “audiophile” model PS1 and the window for the laser working perfectly is impossibly small
Nice fault finding and repair, still satisfying to watch faulty device coming back to life :) I wonder if the laser unit has some capacitors, maybe the corrosion to the motherboard came from there?
Great Video Vince! and great job on repairing those corroded tracks and VIA's. Would the fault with the disc drive have something to do those shorted pads? as that did look a little odd to me. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks Mick, I'm working on it again as I type. Just looking though some different options to try and work out what is going on. The blob is one of those options. Cheers 👍👍
23:15 it's always easier to remove enamel from magnet wire by starting at the cut end, because there's exposed copper there that will take the heat from your iron and burn off the enamel from the inside. I usually put a blob of solder on my iron, stick the end of the wire into it and slowly work it through, maybe adding flux if the solder starts to get lumpy.
For something like this, I usually just strip a length of cheap 30 awg wire rather than bother trying to de-enamel magnet wire. For smaller sizes (34 or 38) I do use magnet wire because it's really all that's available.
27:08 it’s a bloody mess but you’re a legend for keeping it alive!
Nice fix so far Vince, I did notice when you were working on the solder blob to the left about 8 o’clock from the solder blob there is TP95 & TP96 and C51 there looks like a long leg that could be shorted over from TP95 to C51
Thanks for the upload 😊
I see it Gary, that is from one of the crystals. The legs are a little long but they are not shorting. I've bent them over towards the left hand side just to make sure. Thanks for the suggestion mate 👍
@@Mymatevince ok cool just a thought that’s all, well at least it’s doing more then it was when you got it 😊
@@wisher21uk Always up to hear suggestions Gary, makes me life easier 👌
@@Mymatevince so true the more eyes the better 😁
Great video Vince. Watch your content here in Estonia 🇪🇪
I noticed some graphical scrambling when the console was booting.
It may need a recap to be honest.
I repaired a Japanese MK1 and the disc drive was really finicky until the recap, no issues once it was done
Good luck with the next stage of the repair.
well done the fact that you spotted it what amazed me
such a change in skill level from your early years
Thanks Emma ♥
Nice Video. Great how you spotted that corrosion. Looking forward to the follow up.
Fantastic, the retro stuff is always a pleasure to watch, bring back the 1hr vids.
The disc protection is on the far outer edge of the disc on the Saturn, and a weak laser can struggle to read this edge. It's possible that you have a marginal unit that works on one machine but not the other. There are some pots on the PCB of the CD mech assembly and one of these controls the tracking - sometimes this can be brought into like making the discs work.
If not, a modchip would likely fix the problem as that bypasses the protection.
ETA although if a known good mech doesn't work then as others have said, it could be the region lock. Again a modchip (ahem) would help here 😁
Thanks for the tips Jason 👍👍👍
I normally use a one stran of 16 gauge wire, then when put through the hole the solder will flow through the hole if you add a little flux and if it was multilayed you have more chance of joining the tracks in-between. I know this is only double sided but I find enabled wire for short distances is more trouble than it's worth.
Thanks for the tips David 👍👍
Nice job Vince. Hope your leg feels better.
All good again now Pher, I must have just pulled a muscle or something 😂
maybe the solder blob bridge has something to do with it only playing audio from the discs???
Yeah I think that's exactly what it is
My thought too!
Yes!
Yes, maybe. Usually to protect the laser diode when working around It, It Is a good practice to short It out, since It Is very sensitive to static discharge and It could be dameged.
Outstanding fixed loved the intricate work
Great video. I love relaxing and watching one of your repairs but that grinding gave me a little anxiety 😂😂
Nice fix Vince. Really interesting one that 👏
21:03 Hi Vince, was the trace below the letter F of FB9 any good, as looks like that may have been affected by the corrosion as well. Thought it might be worth a check.
Cheers, Dan
Thanks Dan, in this instance it is testing OK for continuity, but very well spotted. I didn't spot that trace at the time 👍👍
@My Mate VINCE No problem at all, was certainly worth a check. Hopefully you get to the bottom of the issue soon. 😊
Saved another from landfill. Bravo!
Normally for top 3 issues with repairing old/new stuff is i've noticed....
1 chips you can't buy.
2. track layers.
3. components like resisters and capacitors.
I have a Japanese Saturn that does the CD Player if I insert a game from a different region in it. You may want to double check that the board is a PAL board. Also, if you have a Sega Saturn Action Replay cartridge or Pseudo Kai cartridge you can boot games from other regions.
I’m waiting for the day Vince gets his reball station then I can list all my knackered PlayStation 3s 😂
It could still be that solder blob across the 2 pins on the cable which you re-added,
It could be the trace near the FB9 writing which was blackened underneath the solder mask.
Well spotted Mike, unfortunately for me that blackened trace is actually testing OK, I'm just working on the next video right now 👍👍👍 Cheers for the suggestions
@@Mymatevince no worries. Hope you get it sorted. My other concern was that some capacitors were replaced with incorrect values before you received it.
I had similar with a double layer motherboard, you were lucky, with the board I had, the corrosion had worked it's way between the layers and spread.
A definite Vince no go
With no signs of spillage or capacitor juice, this just might have been a dodgy board.
Good video, can't wait for the follow up,
Just working on it now MCW 👍👍👍
Great video! Glad you were able to fix it. I don’t know if you’ve already started in on the drive, but you might try an action replay or pseudo Saturn Kai cart if you have one. I have a Saturn that behaves similarly but launches games fine with the help of a psk cart.
Nice work.Congratulation!!!
Fairly interesting. I picked up a 2nd saturn, the white HST-3220 model...I knew when I bought it that it wasn't going to run, it DOES have power, but it won't broadcast anything, not even a black screen. I took the board out and it's super clean looking, no popped caps, nothing. I'm not even sure where to really begin since my tools are very limited, soldering iron, flux, wick, and a multi-reader that's about all I got in my arsenal. But my electrical knowledge is extremely weak, so dunno yet.
Talked to a buddy of mine who's looking at a diagram of the saturn and he's gonna try and point some stuff out to me. The goal on this one was to restore it, but to put on a Fenrir ODE on it and put the working Saturn in a nice safe place so it doesn't burn out.
Never had one of these, but a great try to repair video Vince. 👍
Thanks CLC 😎
@Mymatevince Anytime, you have been doing this for many years Vince, and I love how you keep on trying, no matter what to fix items as most would get returned or go in the bin. They have a new lease of life, thanks to you. Keep up the great work, and love the content you provide to us. 👍
@@CLC-1000 ♥♥
I missed you mate it s been a while since i ve watched any of your videos you make me smile like always glad you doing ok ❤
I feel the passion bit. You do something so long its so easy to lose the thrill. Probably why i have so many hobbies. I take a break, and when i get back the passion comes back. Just makes my life more expensive and my wife less pleased with all my hobbies lol.
Nice work, wire through Via!
Great progress! Fun fix so far.
I love the thumbnail Vince, or Saturn slayer. 😅
Thanks Jake, that took me 2 hours 😂😂 I'm glad you noticed 👍
You start to get your head around those sega's.
That Solder Bridge may be earthing the data stream..
APU I Dropped yo 👉👍👈
Hello vince, over the summer holidays I want to get into this as a hobby, what do you recommend to get started in the basics of understanding the layout of a pcb and faultfinding. I have a basic understanding of electronics from my mechanical engineering course. And I’m ready to buy the appropriate equipment to get started. Thanks for your content 👍👍
Good job Vince !!
Nice work vince 👍✅ what’s the little pcb grinder tool you use please ??
Going from the switch killer to saturn slayer seems like a regression, but only in technology 😂. Well done! Looking forward to the next part.
Suggestion: Check your 5vDC (I think) rail to the disk drive. Is it low? Does the DC voltage look dirty on an Oscope? Could indicate a bad filter cap. It may be a cause for why neither disk drive works in the Saturn as intended.
😂 Well I do feel like I am regressing in many aspects including my understanding of electronics!
Good idea, I will check that out Shawn, nice one sir 👍👍
Going from the switch killer to saturn slayer haha best comment yet 😂🤣😛
@@Mymatevince you're not regressing, only joking 😂
@@HavingFunRepairs 😂
@mymatevince I had the issue of playing music but no game on my saturn. Sorted it by slightly adjusting the laser pot on the optical drive - only took a few minutes.
An OWON HDS242 sometimes can be had for less than 100 bucks. Highly recommended to have an oscilloscope for any advanced repair.
Please don't shorten your fixes, wire works was the most fun and I would like to watch you making each wire.
Sega Saturn is my favourite console. I’m 41 now but got this for Christmas on release. Great memory’s. Normally when the disc drive reads the audio tracks only it’s the laser. Can try adjusting the pot that’s directly on it. I’ve got spare replacement jvc lasers new in boxes as they don’t last long. Already replaced one on 1 of 2 of my consoles. Both model 2 versions
My favourite console too. I love Duke Nukem 3D on the Saturn, it's the best version I've ever played.
That doesn't explain why the drive works when swapped to another unit, as Vince implied. It shouldn't be the laser in that case, and likely something else on the motherboard.
@@Even-Steven motherboard getting limited power to the drive power section. Just a slight drop can cause the laser to be lazy.
Looking forward to the next vid!
yes yes yes!!! loved this console wish i still had 1 :( great vince as always mate
Thanks George 😎
Nice Fix Bro
Thanks Q 👍
If you want solder to flow into the via a bare copper wire is probably better.
Yes, I was going to suggest thin tinned-copper wire may be better here. You don't have the faff of trying to burn coating off, but you need to be careful of shorts.
Love the Saturn, great job :)
haven’t watched in forever but i’m back, how’s it been man?
I've been good thanks 👍👍👍
the disc might be the wrong ' region ' as I have seen that on a working Saturn I used to own. It did not show an error, only audio on one disc, on another there was a splash screen for a different region disc. The other option is see if any working unit has the same ribbon cable to do a temporary swap in case there is other issues with the read head.
Damm you grind Wild with the grinder. Be gentle - you are a destroyere with this grinder 😂
I know, I got a bit carried away 😂 Just seeing that corrosion dust ooze out of the vias willed me on to do more and more! 😂👍👍👍👍
Maybe it does play the games when you remove the solder from the bridged pins you found?
this really makes me want to learn how do repair sega saturns
Hey Vince I am Fayes son she told me about your YT I just subbed
Hi, thanks for subbing 👍 Say hello to your mum and dad from me.
Will do 👍
Good eye Vince! The corrosion inside the via was pretty RAD 😀and as suggested, try other games first before you do a deep dive why hat particular one isn't working.
Yes, it had such a nice colour, very vibrant 😂. Good call on the games, that is the only Saturn game I have at the mo, but I will buy another just in case it is working ok with others 👍👍👍
I knocked a few resistors off PS1 boards when attempting a Xstation mod, if you want you can do a video on them if I can send to you.
Did you check they are the same laser? Theres different variations and some will not work with other boards. I would clean the laser one more time witn some ISO and calibrate the pot little by little
Thanks AI, I'm working on this again now and that is the current conclusion I am coming to. I'm not finished yet, but I think the laser drive might have been swapped out 👍
My mark 1 Saturn had the same problem but it was just one corroded trace on one of the big square Sega chips. Very strange.
It’s usually the heat sensitive PLL chip that causes the black screen issue and that custom chip cannot be replaced unless somebody make a replacement to bypass it. It’s a shame that nobody has done it yet. Or if your lucky maybe it’s bad traces, failed bios mod or bad caps or a bad psu. In your case replacing the JVC Optima 6 Laser or adjusting it should get it to play games again.
weak laser, although sometimes the spindle that holes the discs in can be pushed down too far and lifting it up slightly will help it out, likely just needs a new laser though.
There is a white pot on the disc drive. You need to turn it clockwise just a little bit and try again. There is a video on youtube that shows how to do it. You can find it searching "Sega Saturn not working. How to Replace the Laser", min (24 :57)
There are 2 pots on the disc drive that you have to adjust, the laser pot and the white pot on the board. You need a multimeter to adjust the resistance of the laser pot properly. You could start from 700ohm and then you can reduce the resistance by turning the pot until the laser reads the disc always. Then you can adjust the white pot manually to solve the issue of detecting the game as a audio cd, sometimes works. Check the video that I have mentioned before.
Now you know that it works you should probably use some UV solder mask just to you know seal that up so it doesn't get wear and tear
great video, can you share the link to that grinding tool you used?
Loads of comments already, but I have seen something like this on the Sega CD . It was on incorrect region discs, is the region of the game different from the sega Saturn?
I've always loved the sega Saturn but I hate the grey buttons on the mark 2 version it could either be the solder bridge or a region lock
At 13:11 you can see the region jumpers which appear to be set correctly for Europe. You are trying a European disc right? The behavior you're seeing would be expected if you were trying a wrong region disc (it just recognizes as an audio CD, not a game). Could be that there's a broken connection in the region jumpers or maybe you have the wrong bios somehow?
how do you do to get all this trafic to your channel ? or may be you were just lucky with youtube !!! sorry for my curious question .....
I've been doing it since 2014 so I have built up a following over all the years. It is much harder to start now, not impossible, but much harder 👍
The trace that runs under the FB9 print to the left of were you were working looks like it could be bad
Just to make sure, it's probably is correct but is it in the right region? Is it a PAL Saturn with a PAL game?
The Main crystal clock and the CD drive crystal clock aren't "matching", this can cause those symptoms, maybe someone tried to change its video signal and only changed the X2 crystal, the crystal near the backup battery or the main crystal needs to be changed to so its frequencies will match. Source: Tried to convert a Pal-M Saturn to NTSC only Changing X1, no disc booted, took second crystal from donor Saturn, everything works. Check frequencies from working Saturn and compare with the faulty.
Vince 0 Mosquito 1. *shakes fist*
😂👍
One thing you could do with a SATURN: Get a NTSC-J one and mod the PSU to 230VAC with integrating a 230-> 110V Transformer internally :D :D
Or just get a psu replacement, you get modern ones quite cheap.
Should tried removing solder bridge after you got the image to work
If you've put hours and hours in already, i understand the 'excitement' diminishes a bit. This Sega is a weird one, kinda curious!
Almost looks like some region protection or smth, not playing the games but playing audio CDs just fine...
Really strange. Hopefully we will have an answer after the next video 👍👍
@@Mymatevince The corrosion was strangely in the middle, roughly where the disk drive is. Even though the disk drive is working in the other console could there be a problem with the connector in that area, could something have leaked on it, then through to those traces? Could a capacitor in that area, related to the disk drive, have leaked on to those traces?
@@Charlie_Crown Maybe Charlie, I will give it a good check out in the next video, cheers for the suggestion 👍👍
@@Mymatevince just can't help but think there's a connection there, one problem causing another 👍
Use a fiber glass pencil instead of grinding the board.. it's a lot less destructive
You still don't have a Fenrir ODE?
Those are worth the Money, got one for my SATURN too.
That solder bridge was that on the disc control wires?
Turns out it is ground to ground, but I will cover that in the next video 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince no harm then lol, look forward to it
What about that blob connecting 2 pins on the cable going to the disk, could that be causing that maybe?
Have you tried removing the solder bridge again to see if that was the disc problem as you said it went to the cd drive
The Switch Killer is no more.
I NOW DUB THEE....
THE SATURRRN SLLLAYYYYERRRR!
It wouldn’t be to do with the solder bridge you found on the board would it to do with the disk drive?
I wonder if it has a lockout chip that checks for genuine games a broken trace on the lockout chip means it possibly wouldn't play games?
Did you get rid of the solder blob on the disc connector?
That will be in the 2nd video Geremia 👍
Screaming on the screen: Remove that soldier bridge on the CD connector.
If it were me I'd have another go at that solder bridge. I really don't think that's supposed to be that way.
Really intresting
The blob is in the pics on Wikipedia
I buyed broken saturn, i repaired the power supply it was connected to 220v and is 110v, i see 9v 5v and 3v en the pin out, the disc sping and read but the screen is black and i can see 2 slim lines vertical at the right blue and red, any ideas?
I would love to be able to solder I have a gamegear that needs to be recapped and now my Corsair HS70 pro headset the USB port on it crumbled and needs replacing but I cant do it and its been my favourite headset ever so I ended up ordering a refurbished one to try and save some money.
The coin cell battery is OK .... *drops battery*, was OK.
Could it be that it’s region locked and your game isn’t the right region for it?
I'm sure this was a common fault where it played audio instead of the games and usually meant the laser lens was gubbed. Sometimes a clean with rubbing alcohol would work but normally needed a new laser
It works fine in the other one though, so it's not the laser.
He took a great deal of time to explain that the 'laser' works in another saturn.
it worked in the other saturn, so not this time.
Less fixing more dusting Vincey boy 1:00
😂 I got my feather duster out earlier today for the revisit video 😂
@@Mymatevince hahaha legend