Good diy. I'm gonna give you a few tips to help you 😎. When working with small parts, its good to use a fast curing epoxy. I use the 4:1 epoxy kit from composite envisions. Set time in 75° room temp is 20 mins. And cure time is 2 hrs. So i can recoat parts within 20mins and within 2 hrs its ready to sand. Don't waste time, get the right chemicals for the job. Nobody really wants to wait days for this type of stuff. Easier to knock it out within hours. Before you start, sand the parts with 120 grit. If its metal, use 80 grit. I recommend using air tools. Get a good air orbital sander. And a angle grinder with controlled speeds that you can attach hook and loop sandpaper to. Its good for small parts and tight corners. Don't paint the part black. Instead, use black pigment in your epoxy mixture for your base coat. Lay it on thin, and when its tacky, apply your fabric. Laying carbon on a painted surface can create delamination over time. The carbon will eventually lift from the part. So only use black pigmented epoxy. After you've layed your fabric, apply 3 layers of epoxy. Apply your 1st coat, let it tack, lay a 2nd, let it tack, then lay a 3rd. This will give you good coverage and enough dept to safely sand your part without breaking into your fabric. In between applying your fabric, use a heat gun or torch to raise any air bubbles withing the carbon. The heat will also help level out the epoxy. Which makes it easier to flatten then part during sanding. After the part has cured, sand with 120 grit. Flatten as much of the surface as possible. But don't try to level out more than you should to flatten out low spots. Instead, use a red scotchbrite pad for the low spots. Scuff the whole part with the scotchbrite pad. When you're done sanding, blow the part off with compressed air it possible, and clean the part with wax and grease remover. Dry off the part with a blue shop paper towel. When you're done properly cleaning the part. Apply another 3 layers of epoxy. Use your heat gun or torch in between coats again. After cure, its up to you to determine if the part is ready for clear coat, or needs a 3rd round of epoxy layers. Sometimes a 3rd round is needed. Especially if there are alot of fine curvatures and edges that can't retain high epoxy build up. Just apply another 2-3 thin coats of epoxy. After cure, sand the part with 320 grit to perfectly flatten the part. 320 is coarse enough to level out the epoxy without leaving heavy scratches. Follow up with a 400 grit wet. Wet sanding with 400 will remove any visible scratches left from the 320 grit and smoothen the part out. 400 is the best grit to use before clear coating the part. Clean it off with wax and grease remover again to get it ready for paint. I use shopline clear, with a medium reducer and activator. Apply at least 3 coats of clear and let it cure. If you're using what I'm using, its dry in an hour and ready for wetsand. If you don't have a medium or fast cure mixture, you can always add a few drops of accelerator. You can pick some up at any ppg store. This will speed up the cure process. Wetsand with either 1000 or 1500 to rid any orange peal or airborne contaminants. Then finish with 2000. Cut with a 3M compound, use the orange 3M foam cutting pad. And flow up with a polishing glaze. Use the blue 3M perfect it pad. If you follow these instructions properly, your part will be a showroom class finish. And can ve completed within a day. If i can do it, you can do it. Hope this helps you. @karbonkingdom on IG/FB
Hey man. Try instead of using the spray adhesive. Try a light brush coat of resin let sit about 30 mins after tacky put on your chop strand then vacuum with a draw method and pull resin to the edges.
I thought that what he was doing with every part of the bike. But if I'm not mistaken, in one of the last videos, didn't he just over lay the cut carbon? I'll have to go back and refresh the OLD memory lol. But I don't think he made molds of EVERY piece of the bike and actually created new FULLY carbon parts. Which ok, it's cool. If all you're trying to do is create a LOOK, then good job. But I feel like just laying carbon over plastic panels to get a look is also ADDING weight. Idk!!!??? Fuck!!! Either way, shit DOES look pretty sick yo. Can't wait to see it completed with stickers and color. I would DEFINITELY ride this mofo👊✊ 🤘
@@twistn-grips yeah he was staring out to where he was going to make molds and make the fairings completely from carbon, but he was running short on time and just skinned the tail. Yes just skinning the plastics would add weight, but probably not more than a couple pounds over the entire bike so not much. Also full carbon fairings wouldn't honestly shed enough weight to notice unless you are a professional moto gp rider.
Ok, so I commented before watching the video. I now know that this is to achieve a certain look and not REALLY concerned about the added weight. Not sure just how much that will end up, but would like to at the end of this. I mean it's carbon fiber you're adding, it CAN'T BE all that much!? Right??? Looks dope AF tho.
I don't think it'd be possible to make the gas tank entirely from carbon. The resin wouldn't last long having gasoline sitting in it, let alone any ethanol content would easily dissolve the resin.
@@twistn-grips yeah definitely will look cool. Heck most people who buy carbon pieces to put on their show stopper aren't really doing so for weight savings anyways.
I, personally, am ALL ABOUT the matte look. I think matte would look SICK AF with some nice shinny red and silver stickers!!! 😲 bish would be BAAADDD!!!
Hey man so I came across another video Simone else did on some car parts. You can use peel ply paper to help keep the carbon flat and then once it hardens and you peel it back the waviness is minimal just for future reference!
Have to ask, why not make a 2 or 3 part mold of that piece and produce a proper carbon/chopped carbon replica? Must have added 3 pounds of resin to that tank. If it's just for looks, wrap it or paint it.
Did you take the cap off the vaccum pump before or during the bagging also I think some chopped kevlar would look good mixed in with carbon and my vote is polished
Hey I have interior trim pieces on my BMW 335i, most people wrap them but I don’t like the finish. Do you know if it’s possible to lay the fiber or must I make a cast and then lay the fiber?
this is fucking stupid. You could just buys some carbon stickers and it wouldent ruin the oem tank and pannels. Its not lighter its heavier, non of these parts needed to be stiffer, R.I.C.E!!!!!
Good diy. I'm gonna give you a few tips to help you 😎.
When working with small parts, its good to use a fast curing epoxy. I use the 4:1 epoxy kit from composite envisions. Set time in 75° room temp is 20 mins. And cure time is 2 hrs. So i can recoat parts within 20mins and within 2 hrs its ready to sand. Don't waste time, get the right chemicals for the job. Nobody really wants to wait days for this type of stuff. Easier to knock it out within hours.
Before you start, sand the parts with 120 grit. If its metal, use 80 grit. I recommend using air tools. Get a good air orbital sander. And a angle grinder with controlled speeds that you can attach hook and loop sandpaper to. Its good for small parts and tight corners.
Don't paint the part black. Instead, use black pigment in your epoxy mixture for your base coat. Lay it on thin, and when its tacky, apply your fabric. Laying carbon on a painted surface can create delamination over time. The carbon will eventually lift from the part. So only use black pigmented epoxy.
After you've layed your fabric, apply 3 layers of epoxy. Apply your 1st coat, let it tack, lay a 2nd, let it tack, then lay a 3rd. This will give you good coverage and enough dept to safely sand your part without breaking into your fabric.
In between applying your fabric, use a heat gun or torch to raise any air bubbles withing the carbon. The heat will also help level out the epoxy. Which makes it easier to flatten then part during sanding.
After the part has cured, sand with 120 grit. Flatten as much of the surface as possible. But don't try to level out more than you should to flatten out low spots. Instead, use a red scotchbrite pad for the low spots. Scuff the whole part with the scotchbrite pad.
When you're done sanding, blow the part off with compressed air it possible, and clean the part with wax and grease remover. Dry off the part with a blue shop paper towel.
When you're done properly cleaning the part. Apply another 3 layers of epoxy. Use your heat gun or torch in between coats again.
After cure, its up to you to determine if the part is ready for clear coat, or needs a 3rd round of epoxy layers. Sometimes a 3rd round is needed. Especially if there are alot of fine curvatures and edges that can't retain high epoxy build up. Just apply another 2-3 thin coats of epoxy.
After cure, sand the part with 320 grit to perfectly flatten the part. 320 is coarse enough to level out the epoxy without leaving heavy scratches. Follow up with a 400 grit wet. Wet sanding with 400 will remove any visible scratches left from the 320 grit and smoothen the part out. 400 is the best grit to use before clear coating the part.
Clean it off with wax and grease remover again to get it ready for paint.
I use shopline clear, with a medium reducer and activator. Apply at least 3 coats of clear and let it cure. If you're using what I'm using, its dry in an hour and ready for wetsand. If you don't have a medium or fast cure mixture, you can always add a few drops of accelerator. You can pick some up at any ppg store. This will speed up the cure process.
Wetsand with either 1000 or 1500 to rid any orange peal or airborne contaminants. Then finish with 2000.
Cut with a 3M compound, use the orange 3M foam cutting pad. And flow up with a polishing glaze. Use the blue 3M perfect it pad.
If you follow these instructions properly, your part will be a showroom class finish. And can ve completed within a day. If i can do it, you can do it.
Hope this helps you.
@karbonkingdom on IG/FB
CHICO'S CHANNEL nice tips man
Glossy would be badass. Matte looks good, but probably too subtle for people to notice. Glossy would definitely pop and catch peoples attention.
Hey man. Try instead of using the spray adhesive. Try a light brush coat of resin let sit about 30 mins after tacky put on your chop strand then vacuum with a draw method and pull resin to the edges.
Modified 504 I commented this exactly on his last video.. guess he doesn’t think it’ll work.
What do you mean draw method and pull resin to the edges? Can you link a video showing what you’re talking about
I like that gloss look hopefully when I start doing that I can get it to look similar
i really hope u make a legit full carbon fibre fuel tank n not just lay carbon..but well its still nice to see in matte version..
I thought that what he was doing with every part of the bike. But if I'm not mistaken, in one of the last videos, didn't he just over lay the cut carbon? I'll have to go back and refresh the OLD memory lol. But I don't think he made molds of EVERY piece of the bike and actually created new FULLY carbon parts. Which ok, it's cool. If all you're trying to do is create a LOOK, then good job. But I feel like just laying carbon over plastic panels to get a look is also ADDING weight. Idk!!!??? Fuck!!! Either way, shit DOES look pretty sick yo. Can't wait to see it completed with stickers and color. I would DEFINITELY ride this mofo👊✊
🤘
@@twistn-grips yeah he was staring out to where he was going to make molds and make the fairings completely from carbon, but he was running short on time and just skinned the tail. Yes just skinning the plastics would add weight, but probably not more than a couple pounds over the entire bike so not much. Also full carbon fairings wouldn't honestly shed enough weight to notice unless you are a professional moto gp rider.
Ok, so I commented before watching the video. I now know that this is to achieve a certain look and not REALLY concerned about the added weight. Not sure just how much that will end up, but would like to at the end of this. I mean it's carbon fiber you're adding, it CAN'T BE all that much!? Right??? Looks dope AF tho.
I don't think it'd be possible to make the gas tank entirely from carbon. The resin wouldn't last long having gasoline sitting in it, let alone any ethanol content would easily dissolve the resin.
@@twistn-grips yeah definitely will look cool. Heck most people who buy carbon pieces to put on their show stopper aren't really doing so for weight savings anyways.
I, personally, am ALL ABOUT the matte look. I think matte would look SICK AF with some nice shinny red and silver stickers!!! 😲 bish would be BAAADDD!!!
Thanks 🙏 man
Hey man so I came across another video Simone else did on some car parts.
You can use peel ply paper to help keep the carbon flat and then once it hardens and you peel it back the waviness is minimal just for future reference!
Awesome work! I've wanted to try this since forged carbon started showing on on lamborghinis.
Gloss with mat decal stuff or mat with gloss decal stuff (flames skulls dildos what ever decal you fancy)
Good thinking!
i prefer gloss carbon 🤩
How much epoxy did you use for the tank?
Have to ask, why not make a 2 or 3 part mold of that piece and produce a proper carbon/chopped carbon replica? Must have added 3 pounds of resin to that tank.
If it's just for looks, wrap it or paint it.
Did you take the cap off the vaccum pump before or during the bagging also I think some chopped kevlar would look good mixed in with carbon and my vote is polished
It looks awsome 🤤
Whats the link for the pump that he sent you?
Hey I have interior trim pieces on my BMW 335i, most people wrap them but I don’t like the finish. Do you know if it’s possible to lay the fiber or must I make a cast and then lay the fiber?
How much chopped carbon fiber did you use on your tank? I want to do the same for my cb350.
Would you do this to my vintage cafe racer tank?
you use 3m 77 industrial or multipurpose
As Nicholas said. Matte with gloss decals or the other way around. 😀😍
Where did you get the vacuum pump/tank setup at? That's cheap!
Hi pro I want to buy gas tank carbobfiber for CB300r,. Do you make this item?
Won't the epoxy turn yellow within a year or two?
Where do you get your resin and other products?
I vote gloss.
Matte 100%
Matte would look good
Whats the white sheet you put on there?
Breather cloth
Needs more pink 😝
Matte........
Obviously GLOSS, Any kind of carbon fiber should always be glossy.
You have an Instagram man? I would like to show you my project and see yours!
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
this is fucking stupid. You could just buys some carbon stickers and it wouldent ruin the oem tank and pannels. Its not lighter its heavier, non of these parts needed to be stiffer, R.I.C.E!!!!!