Complete brake job on a 1980 Mercedes Benz 450SL
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Some brake videos say easy peasy just changing the pads, but you should install new disks as well. On these classic cars new hoses are also a good idea, as is checking the wheel bearings. This is an example of using speed bleeders to make it a simple one-man two-minute job. No, I have no connections with whoever makes these bleeders, they are just very convenient. Good luck to all who do this job as the Mercedes blue thread lock compound is a high torque challenge. Here are the contents by approximate time in minutes:seconds.
0:20 - Pads only, simple job
1:18 - Parts list
1:42 - Front brake removal
2:25 - Unbolting the front disc
4:07 - Check and grease front bearings
6:06 - Front left and right and hose replacement
9:26 - Speed bleed front
10:47 - Rear brakes
12:19 - Pulling rear disk
15:25 - Rear swaybar link
15:50 - Rear brake assembly
17:20 - Rear hose replacement
18:07 - Speed bleed rear
21:00 - 200 mile test
Many thanks Ken for all your videos. I just acquired a 1980 SLC and most bits need changing so your videos have been a goldmine, much clearer than the old Mec manuals. I changed the front bearings , one was still an original SKF, made in W Germany, the right side was probably changed at some point, TIM KIN bearings but surprisingly made in France. Also used your video for the subframe mounts, will use it for the cuppler and rear brakes. At only 80 k miles not sure I will need to do the timing chain but we’ll see.
Any thanks a lot for all your most useful videos and tips. Be well and keep wrenching.
Great video. This man knows his machine! It gave me the motivation to change my front bearings, grease, pads, calipers and brake fluid.
Excellent work and wearing a white long sleeved shirt certainly adds an extra bit of class to the excersise.
Great video...well-paced and your workmanship tells a lot about you...You deserve "Honorary Neurotic German" status
i wish i could bring my 1973 450SL to you. great videos
Pretty good video three ERRORS that because they affect how brakes work are consequential could cause brake failure and you to crash if the brakes fail to work....#1. ONLY USE the PROPER GREASE to lube the caliper to pad slide areas. DO NOT USE WHEEL BEARING GREASE FOR THE CALIPER SLIDES ETC. WHEEL BEARING GREASE WILL ATTACK THE RUBBER COMPONENTS OF THE CALIPER AND SWELL THEM UP/RUIN THEM. Additionally the heat from braking will BAKE the wheel bearing grease and make it rock hard and keep the pad from sliding eventually......#2..Also there IS a procedure to adjust the wheel bearings the manual has that procedure.... SEE THE INCLUDED LINKS.... for the special lubricant for the slide areas and the other link to show how to properly adjust the run out for the front wheel bearings.
#3. When FOOT BLEEDING the brakes, be sure NOT TO BOTTOM OUT THE BRAKE PEDAL.....DONT LET the brake pedal GO ALL THE WAY TO TOUCH THE FLOOR. The master cylinder will be ruined if you push its seals past the machined area where they ride into the unmachined area of the bore the seals for the master cylinder are housed in. Its unfortunately very easy to Push the brake pedal to far toward the floor when FOOT bleeding. When the pedal travels too far, the internal master cylinder seals will slide past the smooth machined area they are supposed to be in and instead travel past that smooth area onto the unmachined and rough area of the bore. The seals if rubbed on this unmachined area will then have tiny abrasions in the seals that may cause the pressure not to hold or in technical terms "by pass".. If you cant attach a power bleeder which is the best way to bleed the brakes (check the manual for the proper pressure to use with the power bleeder unit.... memory says its 10psi), In absence of a power bleeder, A trick to keep the brake pedal from traveling to far in pedal bleeding is to put a book that is about an inch and a half thick between the floorboard and the brake pedal so the pedal cant travel too far. The travel area for those seals under normal use is really not very far of an area and the machined area is only just longer than that. Be careful bleeding the brakes using the foot method.
Links:
Brake slide lube..... www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj1_amFwMz4AhVcPa0GHZpqAUwYABAKGgJwdg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_2tX3vzRlJJjU13o0goBAR4qBGyCQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi2qaCFwMz4AhV2EEQIHRCKCAoQ9aACKAB6BAgBEGU&adurl=
How to adjust the front wheel bearing run out. PLEASE READ MY COMMENTS for THAT VIDEO...... ua-cam.com/video/cC56YOBYFKo/v-deo.html
Perfection of a instructional video!
Great video, great tutorial, and good jokes at the end. Thanks so much for sharing.
Excellent video
Great!!! Leaves nothing uncovered.............
Help! After replacing grease & regreasing wheel bearings on wheel spindle I'm having a difficult time getting the hub tapped on. I know it shld fit but I've tried for a hour. I even tried the one from the other side. It will not tap in no matter what i do. I'm afraid to get aggressive. Is this normal? Love your videos
You do good work; I'm the same. I cannot find the speed bleeders. Where did you purchase them?
speedbleeders.com
unhelpful. i need to see how you take apart hub