I’ve routed the wires differently and put in pool noodle foam so it cushions it but this is a great point. Pinned your comment so others hopefully will see!
Great vid ! After running the xmaxx for many years & smashing the XRT since released, I have very little issues running stock setups. As soon as you start uping power, stuff brakes. That's just how it goes. Keep em stock & they run great !
Common sense RC now makes a Lectron Pro battery for the X-Maxx, Maxx, and XRT. It is a 10,000mah 100C 4s and it fits exactly like a Traxxas battery does.
I have 6 Xmaxx trucks and 4 xrt’s maintaining them over the past 8 months doing front and rear diffs and center diff in changing the fluid weight cause the factory sucks I can rebuild them now and once timed 3 hours 2 mins 3 Xmaxx trucks back to back once you know and have a good power screw driver it becomes very easy
The only thing I've broken so far on my XRT was the wing mount. I replaced it with a 3d printed mount from Ebay. After that, I did remove the ESC, TX AND RX, and tires for better performance and components. It's been very durable. I would buy one again! I actually like it better than my X-Maxx for a few reasons. Better body system mounting, better stock tires (even though I don't use them) etc. I have the K8S EXB and O8S. I've had to put a lot of money into those to make them durable. I wouldn't do that again. And they break more easily with badly jumps due to the extreme weight of the 8s Arrma trucks. With the stock motor I've had zero issues with the diffs in both my X-Maxx and XRT. I do chew up gears when I start putting higher gearing and the Max 5 and 1100kv 5687 motor. So I do some little upgrades to the diffs, and even with the stock ring gear and output drives, I have no issues. I have a video about that in my channel. Almost done a year now with zero issues with my diffs. I leave the center diff at 20 million personally. I strongly believe that when you almost lock up the center diff, that probably gives more shocked to your other components. Just my opinion.
I just bought the xrt and got the 9500 HRB they fix perfect 120c they are strong and were balanced perfectly and are that way. Just seen your channel. Second run servo locked up replaced it with traxxas upgraded metal gears wish I'd spent that money on a different one lol
I just sold my XRT the other week unfortunately. I had to wait 6 weeks for the Lower bulkhead to be back in stock. Then when I had it torn apart I realized I needed an upper. Also on back order. Luckily a hobby shop 2.5hrs from me had one in stock. 5hr round trip for a 5$ part. I can’t justify keeping it. Sucks cuz it was such a fun car when it wasn’t having issues.
These things look awesome and they seem to perform well too. My issue with it is the 1400$cad price and all the upgrades that you have to do to it to be reliable. So roughly 2k for a bulletproof rig, unsure if its worth it. Its funny, back in the nitro days everyone spent all their time tuning the engine, now we spend it braking everything else 🛠️ Good video man, thanks for the info.
I have over $3k in my XRT just to compare to my K8. I break something every time I run the XRT, when I run my K8 i rarely break stuff. (I have just under $2k in my K8.)
Your driving skills are pretty good and You say your not sending it to the moon, but that was a huge jump at the beginning of the video, it was bottoming pretty hard there.
Comparing my jumps to like rich duperbash or Talbot is why I say I’m not sending em to the moon. I finally just got this thing fixed after waitin 6 weeks for parts
Would u recommend the xrt? I have a K8s, several Arrma 6s’s, xmaxx and numerous other cars and like the idea of a larger scale that I can take off the ramps. The xmaxx is durable, but can’t rotate well and not as fun as the 6s arrmas with their quick rotational capabilities for flips. The K8s handles great and has loads of power (have an xlx2 and 800 2028 in it), but I don’t like jumping it much as it is a heavy truck as I’m sure u know. The xrt seems to have what I’m looking for in terms of large scale flipper. You think the xrt would work well. Better rotational capability compared to xmaxx?
I’ve sold my XRT since this video. It seems like after 20 battery packs they just start falling apart. But then again I was beating the snot out of that thing for UA-cam views and doing it in cold weather. For mild to medium bashing I think it would be a pretty solid choice man
I understand it taking a while to get to the center diff but the front and rear diff are very easy to get to. Takes like 20 minutes. Also, the HD gear you’re talking about I’m 99% sure is stock. Non HD is the old 6s running gear. Just verified: traxxas part 7792 is standard on Xmaxx and XRT 8s. HD is just referring to the fact it can handle 8s. Same for 7790 and 7791. Parts 7777,7778, and 7779 only for the original 6s Xmaxx. No; I don’t have a clue why they’re still making those old spec gears.
Nice vid and flipz!! Make sure when you change to 7.4volts you have a receiver that can take it or and external BEC or you’ll just fry your rx I tried it and my rx (receiver) blew!
Man I just did my center and rear diff and it was a nightmare. So much easier on the arrma rigs!! Glad I did it though because ear plugs in the center woke the truck up so much it's redonkulous. I had to lower the punch after 🤣 Awesome jumps bro!
Why E6000 glue? Is that a known glue that works well around RC ridgid glass filled plastic parts? Nylon or carbon composites? Never seen this glue referenced, and curious if it is the goto glue for rc enthusiasts?
Interesting, I wouldn’t have guessed the e6000 would hold up as a tire wheel glue. I hate gluing tires with reg tire glue as it dries so fast and inevitably don’t get a part of the bead seated before it dries.
It’s essentially like a welded differential. Power is not going to transfer more to one side of the differential it’ll be a 50/50 split. As with the stock 20M fluid you get more power bleed to the front. Which is better for racing and handling. But plugs is better for wheelies and backflips
I started to hear seal sing i want to fly like a ........ I wouldnt zip tie or tape battery connectors . Wire will have to break if battery pops out. Got to be 100% sure your batteries cant come out if your doing that.
The only thing I hated on my x maxx is that the center diff isn’t even in the center but buried in the rear of the car and a pain in the butt to Get too
@@midwestern_rc I know I switched to the kraton 8s a while back got it 12s now but it’s night and day especially after u do it 2 or 3 times it’s like brainless lol
I have been in this hobby for over thirty years. I currently have about 300 different models, from many brands. At the time, I had a few Traxxas and due to the poor quality of these, I decided to stop buying them. Of course I also got rid of them and I have no intention of buying a single "Crapxxas" in my life. The batteries are a disaster, the chargers are tragic comedy, and the customer service is rude and ignorant. In general, the entire Traxxas experience is based on aftermarket parts. Their models leave a lot to be desired in terms of materials, toughness and, above all, electronics. They are the Apple equivalent of the RC: They give less for much more.
I can’t disagree with you man. I was so disappointed when I found out the front bulkhead was cracked and the part isn’t in stock until later this month
@Linh Nguyen Arrma all day better. Faster, better ESC, better motor, better servo, cheaper. All you need to do is add support to the aluminum body, and that's all you need to be 100 times better than that over price piece of plastic.
@@midwestern_rcyou agree with him? C’mon, you like Traxxas enough to own the X-MAXX and then drop another $1,000.00 on the XRT. Cracking the bulkhead, especially when having some altitude with a good amount of forward inertia isn’t all that shocking, especially in those colder/cooler temps.
Great video, man, but that thing is way overpriced for what you get. All the electronics on it are junk, plus the shocks belong on a cheap Chinese rc car. Durable, sure, but that's all you get. Spend 1k on a truck that you will be changing all electronics in no time. Sorry, but not worth 1k. $500 to $600, maybe.
To be fair most RC cars are overpriced but the company has to make a profit. And I think Traxxas is most overpriced due to the marketing that they do. It’s well reflected in the price. The XRT has been down for a month now though since filming this. I’m dreading replacing the front lower bulkhead since these are a nightmare to work on
The battery wires should always be toward the rear. That way, in a front end collision, you're not bashing into all the internal wiring in the pack.
I’ve routed the wires differently and put in pool noodle foam so it cushions it but this is a great point. Pinned your comment so others hopefully will see!
Great vid ! After running the xmaxx for many years & smashing the XRT since released, I have very little issues running stock setups. As soon as you start uping power, stuff brakes. That's just how it goes. Keep em stock & they run great !
Common sense RC now makes a Lectron Pro battery for the X-Maxx, Maxx, and XRT. It is a 10,000mah 100C 4s and it fits exactly like a Traxxas battery does.
Those are nice specs
I have 6 Xmaxx trucks and 4 xrt’s maintaining them over the past 8 months doing front and rear diffs and center diff in changing the fluid weight cause the factory sucks I can rebuild them now and once timed 3 hours 2 mins 3 Xmaxx trucks back to back once you know and have a good power screw driver it becomes very easy
The only thing I've broken so far on my XRT was the wing mount. I replaced it with a 3d printed mount from Ebay. After that, I did remove the ESC, TX AND RX, and tires for better performance and components. It's been very durable. I would buy one again! I actually like it better than my X-Maxx for a few reasons. Better body system mounting, better stock tires (even though I don't use them) etc. I have the K8S EXB and O8S. I've had to put a lot of money into those to make them durable. I wouldn't do that again. And they break more easily with badly jumps due to the extreme weight of the 8s Arrma trucks. With the stock motor I've had zero issues with the diffs in both my X-Maxx and XRT. I do chew up gears when I start putting higher gearing and the Max 5 and 1100kv 5687 motor. So I do some little upgrades to the diffs, and even with the stock ring gear and output drives, I have no issues. I have a video about that in my channel. Almost done a year now with zero issues with my diffs. I leave the center diff at 20 million personally. I strongly believe that when you almost lock up the center diff, that probably gives more shocked to your other components. Just my opinion.
Have fun waiting 6 weeks for parts to come in stock when the XRT breaks. I’m about to sell mine
Great video! Always love a good bash video!
More to come!
Awesome video brother🤙🏻
Thanks man 🤝
that area is awesome!! great video! subbed!! upvoted!!!
Awesome thank you!
Dude that area looks awesome!! I live in Royal Oak is it anywhere close to there? Killer video as well!
I just bought the xrt and got the 9500 HRB they fix perfect 120c they are strong and were balanced perfectly and are that way. Just seen your channel. Second run servo locked up replaced it with traxxas upgraded metal gears wish I'd spent that money on a different one lol
I just sold my XRT the other week unfortunately. I had to wait 6 weeks for the Lower bulkhead to be back in stock. Then when I had it torn apart I realized I needed an upper. Also on back order. Luckily a hobby shop 2.5hrs from me had one in stock. 5hr round trip for a 5$ part. I can’t justify keeping it. Sucks cuz it was such a fun car when it wasn’t having issues.
These things look awesome and they seem to perform well too. My issue with it is the 1400$cad price and all the upgrades that you have to do to it to be reliable. So roughly 2k for a bulletproof rig, unsure if its worth it.
Its funny, back in the nitro days everyone spent all their time tuning the engine, now we spend it braking everything else 🛠️
Good video man, thanks for the info.
Jeeeze I didn’t know prices were that much worse in Canada wow.
I have over $3k in my XRT just to compare to my K8.
I break something every time I run the XRT, when I run my K8 i rarely break stuff. (I have just under $2k in my K8.)
You can fit hoovo 4s 120c 10000mah in the XRT. That’s what I use.
Your driving skills are pretty good and You say your not sending it to the moon, but that was a huge jump at the beginning of the video, it was
bottoming pretty hard there.
Comparing my jumps to like rich duperbash or Talbot is why I say I’m not sending em to the moon. I finally just got this thing fixed after waitin 6 weeks for parts
@@midwestern_rc low earth orbit then
Running hot like mine did with max6 and stock motor. Switched to castle XLX2 1100kv and down went the temps and up went the insanity..!
That’s a wiiiiild set up for an XRT 🤝
Nice rig man
Thanks 👍
The SMC 9500 mAh will fit in the Xmaxx without modification but you will battery tray straps for them to to fit in the Xrt
Good to know 🤝
My next rc purchase. Xrt
You’re going to love it man
Would u recommend the xrt? I have a K8s, several Arrma 6s’s, xmaxx and numerous other cars and like the idea of a larger scale that I can take off the ramps. The xmaxx is durable, but can’t rotate well and not as fun as the 6s arrmas with their quick rotational capabilities for flips. The K8s handles great and has loads of power (have an xlx2 and 800 2028 in it), but I don’t like jumping it much as it is a heavy truck as I’m sure u know. The xrt seems to have what I’m looking for in terms of large scale flipper. You think the xrt would work well. Better rotational capability compared to xmaxx?
I’ve sold my XRT since this video. It seems like after 20 battery packs they just start falling apart. But then again I was beating the snot out of that thing for UA-cam views and doing it in cold weather. For mild to medium bashing I think it would be a pretty solid choice man
I understand it taking a while to get to the center diff but the front and rear diff are very easy to get to. Takes like 20 minutes. Also, the HD gear you’re talking about I’m 99% sure is stock. Non HD is the old 6s running gear. Just verified: traxxas part 7792 is standard on Xmaxx and XRT 8s. HD is just referring to the fact it can handle 8s. Same for 7790 and 7791. Parts 7777,7778, and 7779 only for the original 6s Xmaxx. No; I don’t have a clue why they’re still making those old spec gears.
Nice vid and flipz!! Make sure when you change to 7.4volts you have a receiver that can take it or and external BEC or you’ll just fry your rx
I tried it and my rx (receiver) blew!
Ohhh good call I didn’t know that! Would a spektrum system work?
I just need to get a steering bell crank and I can start my chassis swap on xmaxx
Nice. Yeah I can’t find anywhere with a front bulkhead in stock
@@midwestern_rc I was going to order m2c but you need an existing xrt bellcrank so I'm waiting on vitavon
Man I just did my center and rear diff and it was a nightmare. So much easier on the arrma rigs!! Glad I did it though because ear plugs in the center woke the truck up so much it's redonkulous. I had to lower the punch after 🤣 Awesome jumps bro!
Hell yeah earplugs make it so much more fun! And yeah 1000% not fun. Hopefully I can get away with maintenance once a year lol
Why E6000 glue? Is that a known glue that works well around RC ridgid glass filled plastic parts? Nylon or carbon composites?
Never seen this glue referenced, and curious if it is the goto glue for rc enthusiasts?
Works great. I even use it as tire glue now and they never come unglued
Interesting, I wouldn’t have guessed the e6000 would hold up as a tire wheel glue. I hate gluing tires with reg tire glue as it dries so fast and inevitably don’t get a part of the bead seated before it dries.
What letters do you have your motor mount for a 22/50 gears?
I
Explain ear plugs... do they melt into really thick silicone or what? I'm new and so confused by that lol
It’s essentially like a welded differential. Power is not going to transfer more to one side of the differential it’ll be a 50/50 split. As with the stock 20M fluid you get more power bleed to the front. Which is better for racing and handling. But plugs is better for wheelies and backflips
Nice big jumps 🦘 like Butter 🧈
Zeee 9000 mah fit perfect
Right on
I started to hear seal sing i want to fly like a ........
I wouldnt zip tie or tape battery connectors . Wire will have to break if battery pops out. Got to be 100% sure your batteries cant come out if your doing that.
Damn I didn’t think of that. Pinned the comment so others can see. Good point 🤝
Power hobby 4s 9000 mah battery’s fit perfect in the battery tray
Ah there we go
@@midwestern_rc they are really good batteries I have a set I use in my xrt
Zeee 9000 also
Also worth noting that traxxas receivers can’t handle anything above 6V
What’s the difference between the stock servo vs the upgraded?
Stock servo is weak and has plastic gears that will break very quickly
@@midwestern_rc thanks for the QUICK replay wow
The only thing I hated on my x maxx is that the center diff isn’t even in the center but buried in the rear of the car and a pain in the butt to
Get too
Yeah such a pain to get to. Even more frustrating after dealing with how easy Arrma 8S cars are
@@midwestern_rc I know I switched to the kraton 8s a while back got it 12s now but it’s night and day especially after u do it 2 or 3 times it’s like brainless lol
@5:55 XRT Bash Friendly
🤝🫡
Zee 9000mah packs fix in an xmaxx without mods
Right on 🤝
Zeee 10,000mAh batteries fit.
SupraX
🤝
I have been in this hobby for over thirty years. I currently have about 300 different models, from many brands. At the time, I had a few Traxxas and due to the poor quality of these, I decided to stop buying them. Of course I also got rid of them and I have no intention of buying a single "Crapxxas" in my life. The batteries are a disaster, the chargers are tragic comedy, and the customer service is rude and ignorant. In general, the entire Traxxas experience is based on aftermarket parts. Their models leave a lot to be desired in terms of materials, toughness and, above all, electronics. They are the Apple equivalent of the RC: They give less for much more.
I can’t disagree with you man. I was so disappointed when I found out the front bulkhead was cracked and the part isn’t in stock until later this month
What's better at this scale? Arrma losi 😅
@Linh Nguyen Arrma all day better. Faster, better ESC, better motor, better servo, cheaper. All you need to do is add support to the aluminum body, and that's all you need to be 100 times better than that over price piece of plastic.
@@linh811yup! Arrma and Losi Break a LOT less!
Ask me how I know…
@@midwestern_rcyou agree with him? C’mon, you like Traxxas enough to own the X-MAXX and then drop another $1,000.00 on the XRT. Cracking the bulkhead, especially when having some altitude with a good amount of forward inertia isn’t all that shocking, especially in those colder/cooler temps.
Great video, man, but that thing is way overpriced for what you get. All the electronics on it are junk, plus the shocks belong on a cheap Chinese rc car. Durable, sure, but that's all you get. Spend 1k on a truck that you will be changing all electronics in no time. Sorry, but not worth 1k. $500 to $600, maybe.
Spot on! In some cases, Chinese companies are the better value.
MJX is growing fast.
To be fair most RC cars are overpriced but the company has to make a profit. And I think Traxxas is most overpriced due to the marketing that they do. It’s well reflected in the price. The XRT has been down for a month now though since filming this. I’m dreading replacing the front lower bulkhead since these are a nightmare to work on
Not impressed bub sorry 😊
Okay 😊
So 1,000 for roller vehicle 300 hobbywing combo and 300 in upgrades . And pinion problems not worth it
Not a cheap hobby man.