Well where as I Don't think the ultimate XRT is the best use of parts from them most of their cars are in line with what the rest of the industry is charging. Keep in mind that this build costs significantly more than what the ultimate XRT XRT will run you. It's a lot better car but it's also a lot more money.
@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj The stock Maxx spur isn't great. Neither is the stock mounting system. A GDS spur with a techno pinion will be your strongest bet. You could also looking to aftermarket motor mounts. It is a little annoying to have to do that but overall the max platform is one of the most durable ones available out of the box.
@@DoRC you could get a used xmaxx for about 5 to 6 hundred . And spend a thousand in upgrades and it'll destroy Traxxas ultimate version . And honestly the 5th scale arrma lineup is a better buy . You could take the extra 500 and buy extra tires or something .
Just a general question since I’ve been out of the hobby a while but is the hobby wing system better than the velineon or mamba options ? I used to run mamba in all of my older trucks. Just wondering why you swapped out with it being a brand new truck.
A lot of people don't like the Traxxas ESCs. I've never really had too much trouble with them but I would say hobby wings a bit better than them and then castles a bit better than hobby wing but of course Castle cost a lot more. Ultimately unless you feel an actual need to upgrade to from the stock system I would just leave it in there
The Max 5 5690 combo should get you over 50 miles an hour but I'm really not a top speed kind of person so might not be the best person to ask about those sorts of things.
I'm not sure but these things are massive on the XRT. I don't think the drivetrain could handle it on a Kraton, You have problems with the suspension bottoming out, probably have binding issues, I think the tires would weigh more than the car and some other stuff. I don't think it's a good idea.
@johanneswicklein4975 Well I do stuff that I wouldn't consider to be a good idea all the time. If you do want to try it I believe just bash it actually sells adapters that allows you to put these 24 mm hex wheels on 17 mm standard vehicles. Let me know how it goes :-)
Love your channel :) As a newbie to RC and an engineer, is there any chance you can make a list of parts for this upgrade(I also watched your followup vid) ? thanks :)
To be honest I don't really remember everything I put in it now but it was pretty much everything from the M2C catalog and then a few other bits and pieces.
Good Afternoon Do Rc . I pick up a xrt ultimate and i fill and can hear the mesh is not right with the pinion in spur gear can i remove the set pins and set the mesh my self ??
Yes you can. I'd recommend getting the motor mount screw washers that Traxxas sells as they help prevent dense forming in the plastic under the screws which can make fine adjustment difficult.
@carlosg3515 ah. That's just the stock whatever grease that Traxxas put in there. Really it doesn't matter what you use. Anything greasy will be fine. Gears in RC cars get so little use compared to gears in most other applications like automotive or industry that to be perfect last you probably don't need any grease at all but any bearing or other fairly thick grease will work fine
Definitely worth checking. I have had screws back out multiple times due to oil in the threads. It really does prevent the threadlock from working properly.
I've tried pit mats but I found I don't like them. Even magnetic ones will get me in trouble eventually because I have found that if the screws are all laid out all it takes is bumping the car wants to send them all flying all over the place. I'd rather have them in bags and get them out of the way.
As a guy used to smaller cars. Sometimes i forget how stupidly massive these cars are. Ill never buy one, but thanks to you and these thorough videos i feel like i do own one 😅
Great Video ! I just finished my New XRT Slider. Hobbywing 5690 1250kv and Max5, M2C Mount, M2C Bellcrank Kit, M2C ESC Max5 Mount, GPM Servo Mount and Diff Cup Braces, Garagelife Battery Trays, 2 ea. Gens Ace 4S 8000 Smart Lipo's, Futaba Sensors for my T4PM (Motor Temp, RPM's & Voltage), Mod 1.5 21/35 (as per your recommendation 👍🏻👍🏻) and 2 sets of 1/5 scale Desperado Beadlocks. 1 set of Rear Knobby Bow Ties (170mm x 80mm) and 1 set of Tarmac Busters (170mm x 80mm) along with the MadMax 1/5 Scale Wheel Adapters. Next up is the GPM Chassis Brace. I was in awe running it for the 1st time about a week ago. The power ! My 1st "Real" Electric R/C. Ive only had Gas/Nitro since the 70's with some cheap electrics along the way. Thanks again for your great videos !
Yeah man If this is your first real electric in the modern era you're definitely doing it big! Modern brushless systems are nothing like gas nitro or older electric systems. It's a totally different animal.
Awesome build!! If you are taking the wing off, I would love to see it with a truck body of some sort, it would look great with the larger tyres! Maybe a vintage style truck body, kind of Arrma Outcast style! :)
Yeah it's always fun to do a big project like this. A lot of this stuff really isn't necessary though. You can make a very functional basher for a lot less.
Use red or blue loctite on the motor shaft before your put the gear on. It’ll keep that pinion from working loose. It’ll take a little more work to get off later on (heat and gear puller) but it will stay put during hard use.
Yeah you can do that but I've actually had to cut gears off that were thread locked on before. Honestly as long as everything is clean and installed correctly you really shouldn't need to do that. The vast majority of pinions that come off do so because they weren't installed correctly.
If you want an even distribution of power from front to rear, replace the center diff fluid with 500,000 wt or heavier. The front tires won't balloon as much, and the truck will fly! Love the video!
These come from the factory with 20 million in the center differential. Running thinner fluid is just going to make the front tires balloon more as more energy will go to them. 500 k is actually really thin for these cars
@@robr3 Yeah the next step up is silicone ear plugs which I think are already in this car. It's just a lot of weight and a lot of power so they still do balloon some
They seem really good. They're actually quieter than I thought they would be and are very durable obviously. The only problem is that there aren't a lot of options for spur gears
I Really enjoyed this video 🔥 great info and straight to the point ! Have you seen the new VITAVON xrt/xmaxx diff locker ?Looks much different then anything else I’ve seen 🤔
Love the upgrades. I agree that if you upgrade all those heavier parts you have add a stronger moter and Servo. What I do see with a lot of these upgrades and more power, all that power gets lost cause the cars just wants to wheelie or flip all the time, which makes it uncontrollable to steer since your front wheels are hardly ever on the ground. Would be great if you could do a video on how to power up your car yet at the same time make your car get more traction especially the front wheels, so the power goes into the ground and jet the car fwds so you can actually drive it rather than wheelie and ballooning the tires? I recon lower profile belted tires might help, thicker oil in the diffs, maybe transfer more weight to the front of the car etc. Would be great to get your input on that. Thanks!
Unfortunately these cars are kind of already overpowered from the chassis standpoint from the factory so you're not going to be able to do a whole lot to keep the nose down. A longer lower car will have a lower center of gravity and a longer wheelbase makes it less likely to wheelie but ultimately you're going to run up against one of two problems. It's either going to want a wheelie or it's going to spin wheels. There's just too much power. The thicker the center differential fluid you put in the more likely it'll be to try to wheelie The thinner the center differential you put in the less likely it'll be to try to wheelie but the more likely it is you're going to turn the front tires into pizza cutters. Belted tires can help with the pizza cutter problem but It doesn't solve the traction problem. Ultimately the power to weight ratio on these vehicles is just astronomical and there really isn't any practical way to controllably get that much power to the ground without building something very specialized and that very specialized thing would likely not be very fun.
@@emilepieters1189 Not much. Front wheel drive kind of sucks for off-roading. Under acceleration the center of gravity shifts backwards and so you'd end up with a whole lot of wheel spin and not much else.
Theoretically sure about the set screws but those have a point and stamp the shaft , z2 small better than one in this instance , nice truck the xrt of course all the goodies , m2 racing is the snap on in rc parts
Right but the purpose of a set screw is to force the shaft against the side of the gear. If you just have two opposing set screws the only contact between the shaft and the gear will be just at those two little points which isn't enough to hold the gear in place. That's why the vast vast majority of times when you see two set screws they are 90° apart not 180° apart. 180° opposing set screw is really only happen when someone doesn't know what they're doing. That's also evident in this case because they way way under sized the set screw.
I built almost identical I did a professional pass brushless steel gear servo 56-80kg treal arms gps hub axles treal steering cover vitavon steering assembly m2c racing chassis brace motor esc mount gpm adapter for servo monitor treal as well as treal side skirts hobbywing brushless max6-g2 1650kv and stuck at hearing. Just ordered vitavon cush drive shaft cause the gears slides 1 mm up and 1mm out off the cush drive. Never did anything to diffs got output drive rings aluminum caps all black it's a heck of a rig my fist build in September. I put 1700$ into it way better than the ultimate xrt. Good job you made me feel like I finally did it all right. I love it. Now for mod #2 gears
@DoRC can you recommend anything to take the wiggle away from my cush drive shaft? So I can keep my 1.5 I'm happy with where I am. Just 50$ runs eating gears if I tilt on grass or hit to hard. It's moves enough to explode the pinnion or monkey metal gear. I do not waste any $$$ on those types of metal anymore.
@DoRC I just want speed runs I want a fast xrt. Pls help me out I have about 1750$+ into the black edition I'll show anytime. I have some gems to make some videos with. I'll set up a simple set. My shop is not to be on camera. 😂 I GTA clean I have so many projects. I didn't realize what I built until you did it's twin seriously
Hello I currently bought my first XRT but I not having seen this video before went ahead and bought the ultimate, but now I’m realizing I might have to upgrade some of those upgrades… after I break them of course, any way you can give a quick list of just the important stuff I would need already bought the M2c chassis brace and hinge pins….. by the way I’m really enjoying your content.
Glad you're enjoying. To be honest I would recommend just going out and having fun with the truck and then upgrading things as they break. Everybody's bashing style is going to be different and subsequently what people need to upgrade will often also be different.
i added lead eight to the front of my traxxas rustler to help keep the front wheels ob the ground took tire weight and melted them on the stove ans used a match box to mold it in
That might work with something small but you'd have to add an awful lot of weight to the front of this to keep the nose down. There's a ton of power here and a lot of rotational inertia with the big tires. Not saying it's not doable but I'm not sure it would be practical. That added weight is also going to be additional strain on the drivetrain etc. Personally I mostly do stunting and flips and stuff so it doesn't really bother me.
M2C is the best out there, not sure about those tires, I got Proline Masher X belted tires, if I recall they are lighter than stock. The car is so fast don’t worry about air control, it be fine.
Yeah depending on how much power you have and what you're trying to do belted tires can be okay for air control. I like to do things like quadruple backflips so I like non-belted tires :-)
I think everything that I put on this vehicle I would consider upgrades. There are definitely some things that aren't but I tried to leave those off of this project. Of course you don't need all of these things to have a good vehicle but I think all of these are definitely upgrades. Which parts would you not consider to be upgrades?
The mod 2 gearing are the most impressive gear to date on a RC. I think you sould put the 2 set screw, the pinion gear have a D shape and really tight no play inside. On my X-Maxx I install 2 set screw on the 8mm shaft with round hole in pinion gear and never have problem :)
It really depends on where the two set screws are. Most gears you see will have two set screws 90° from each other. That works fine as it still pushes the gear against the shaft. If the set screws are 180° apart from each other essentially all you're doing is pushing one set screw against the other. This means that the only contact being made between the gear and the shaft will be those two sets screw points. Remember even a half a thousandth of an inch of gap means that the two aren't touching and aren't interacting with each other. The problem in this case is that the set screw is just too small. It does not have enough force to hold the gear on. The set screw was still thread locked in place on mine. It didn't come loose.
What you can do for not to ooose your engine tandwheel is grinding a bit a hole in the motor axle where comes the screw in. I have do that also whit my X Maxx engine axle! And make a house round your tandwheels so if there comes a little stone between it the tands are not broking. I do that whit all my rc cars if there are open tandwheels!
I appreciate the tip but in this case the grub screw was just too small for the application. I don't think anything would work other than just getting a larger grub screw. I modified the gear to take a larger one and it's been fine.
@@DoRC All right! I have seen the ather video whit the more screws in it. But make a house round your tandwheels i do it whitb thin alu plates and double side tape and ather strong tape.
I'm not sure I want to add it up. Probably around $1,500 an upgrades total. Subtract a couple hundred bucks you can get back from selling the stock parts and add in the cost of the car you're probably at around $2,200.
Yeah that's the way it goes sometimes. A decent basher doesn't need to cost you that much though. This was an all-out build. Check out my video where I compare build or buy ultimate for a more reasonable setup.
Put blue lock tight on the motor shaft and the set screw use a good hex tool like the red dynamite to tighten the screw SUPER SUPER TIGHT. Let lock tight dry for two or three days. Put hard ear plugs in to the center diff. If you go back to mod 1 gears, tekno gears use bigger than normal set screws and are Very good.
I put red thread locker on the set screw and let it set for 24 hours. It doesn't matter it's too small. Not interested in putting thread locker on the shaft because I want to be able to get the gear off. I've had nightmares when other people thread locked shafts in the past. This teeny tiny set screw is just too small. I think I have a fix though stay tuned :-) I am going to earplug the center differential. I just wanted to see how it handled with the stock fluid in it first. Thanks for watching!
@@DoRC yeah I know what you mean that's why I use blue lock tight it works and you can still get the gear off later if you really need to. I keep away from red .
Looks like tiny blip of the throttle makes it flip way to much power could have left it stock with just servo and gpm hinge pins and hardened gears and had just as much fun for a fraction of all the crap you threw at it but I'm sure you didn't pay for many of those upgrades so have fun 😊
@bretallsop1862 It's that same ability to blip the throttle and flip that allows you to do quadruple backflips and other ridiculous stunts though. You are absolutely right though You could leave the truck stock or just with a few upgrades and have plenty of fun with it. The point of this upgrade process was to go all out though and I think I did a good job with that :-) If you want a more reasonable upgrade path check out my ultimate buy versus build video. I lay out what I think is a pretty good setup on a budget. Thanks for watching!
As A Person who just started 2 yrs ago ..i went off what looks better to me & if it breaks are parts widely available to get it fixed & customer service… Thats How I ended with traxxas.. as far as cost go they all expensive to me 😆🤷🏾♂️.. picture me lookin to by a sledge or xrt for 3-400 & the price is $600 -1000 no matter what brand i pick ..i guess ppl want to play with rc’s right out the box and nothing ever breaks😂😂if they sold u the upgrades already on the car that hold up the longest that we all are currently buying an XRt & Xmaxx would cost $2500-3000 out the store 3700 with batteries & chargers..now how many ppl would like to pay that Tab & its still going to break when u bash it eventually ! .. 4 small aluminum shock caps was $50 ..i felt a lil violated 😆but i know what i got into & if im going to complain about the cost of anything i might as well get out of the rc game..find the best set up for longevity & u can slow down on spending money but u are never going to stop spending in this game
RC's definitely are expensive and Traxxas parts are actually cheaper than many but their initial buy-in is more. Overall they make good stuff though! Glad you're enjoying the hobby :-)
I’ve looked at some of the M2C shock caps for a traxxas 1/10 scale but $80 for shock caps, I’m sure they are nice but for the price I could get an shock set for the same price for me it’s kinda hard to jump on the m2c wagon.
I don't think they make parts for 1/10 Traxxas cars. That basing said their parts aren't cheap but neither is small batch CNC machining in the US. The shocks you can get for $80 were almost certainly made in China where production costs are probably half. Of course your cost is the most important thing but they do make good stuff.
@@DoRCM2C makes parts for the Oversized 1/10th scale Maxx, he's talking about the shock emoltion kit. Remember the shock caps are NOT JUST CAPS, there emoltion style that has no bladder (Bladderless) so that makes for less rebound especially if used with the M2C pistons. Other aftermarket cheap caps are ok, but 90% of the time the cheaper ones are not Bladderless emoltion style.... It's not just strength, it's a functional performance upgrade😎👍 Good video, those Trenchers are not the best for the XRT as they Ballon way too much, curious as to what you put in the center diff? Shouldn't be anything less than a million, I'd go 20m or Earplugs 90%/1m mix is 😍😎👍 with some Arrma Backflips
@@3SonsRC oh yeah. I don't know why but I always think about the 3S cars when I think 1/10 scale Traxxas And yeah their shock caps are more than just replacement shock caps And I believe that kit comes with shock pistons as well. I think tire choice is a really personal thing. Trenchers are my favorite because they do balloon. I mostly do stunts and jumps when I'm bashing so the more air control I have the better. Definitely not for everyone though. The XRT comes from the factory with 20 million in the center differential though I will be ear plugging it. I just wanted to see what it was like with the stock fluid. I usually earplug everything right away and I was curious how this would handle without it. Of course you're plugging will reduce the front tires ballooning but it's going to increase the tendency for it to wheelie which it was already trying to do so I'm not sure it'll make it go any faster :-) different tires of course would be better for that but I don't really care about top speed.
I don’t know how they say the center diff are torque biased tho they are just regular differential to my knowledge or do they have some lsd plates inside?
I've wanted to see a Traxxas 8S in person for the 3 years I've been doing this. Definitely want to see if an xmaxx can truly hold up to my bashing, which I seriously doubt. Xmaxx and XRT have been interesting, but out of my budget and no local stores to even check em out.
@DoRC city streets and parks. Basically, it's a skate park without the jumps. Always obstacles or holes to avoid. Thankfully I haven't hit a homeless person yet, almost hit a person sleeping under a tree this past summer, came within an inch of his head at high speed with a tlr typhon.
@@Macgyver46 Yeah you definitely have to watch out for other people. I've hit myself enough times to know that you can absolutely kill somebody even with a 1/8 scale vehicle if you hit some just right.
@DoRC that typhon broke 4 bones in my foot wearing combat boots when I first got it. Only people I've almost hit(besides myself) have always been homeless hiding under or behind stuff. I avoid going to those parks when the homeless camp out now, last thing I want is anyone thinking I did it on purpose.
I am at a loss here. Until you thicken up that cush drive fluid, it will diff out even with stock Traxxas drivetrain. Mod 2 gearing? Besides the novelty, why? HR, Vitavon, and tons of others make a great set of 1.5s. The servo, the steering, the hinge pins, and the drive cups I get. And don't feel bad about the shock caps. I too have a set of Maxx caps that I bought for one of my Xs. My Max does eat axles, but never shock caps.
Yeah I definitely need to put some thicker fluid in the center differential. I just wanted to see how it behaved without it and it already wants to wheelie pretty quickly so it's going to be a balancing act. The mod two gearing was definitely just to see what it was all about. Mod 1.5 is perfectly sufficient. I also got them on AliExpress for like 30 bucks so it wasn't a huge investment. Every time I do one of these builds I like to get a few parts that I'm not already comfortable with just to expand my horizons. The gears were one of those.
@@DoRC I honestly thought it would not be as powerful as it is. My XRT King is on a Max5/800 geared 35/34 Mod 1.5 on 8s. It will pull the tires at any throttle but after going 20 mil on the cush drive it doesn't balloon the fronts much at all. The money is in the diff housings. Losing the plastic housings is the best mod ever. And when you call the steering links a mechanical fuse, you make me proud. Are you listening TRAXXAS? Everybody I know that bought Ultimates are now running stock plastics because they broke he aluminum junk they put on them.
If you're serious my email address is in the about section of the channel. You have to look at it on desktop in order to see it though. Maybe we can work something out for a video :-)
This is actually my first XRT and now that I've experienced it I'll be selling my xmax. I like how it handles better but even more I like how much easier it is to work on. Everything's not buried down in the chassis like it is on the X-Max.
So I really like the way you make your video in some regards. Good lighting, you try to explain things, give some tips about lots of stuff. But how are you going to claim your building a true ultimate basher using random Amazon parts you admit you don’t know how well they’ll work, using wheels that are very impractical for the truck, over gearing the motor that is going to make it super hot and surely burn it out. You’re on the right track in some areas but leading your viewers wildly astray in others.
I specified in the video that I used the Amazon parts as an experiment. And advised not to do it. Gears were an experiment as well. Tires are a personal choice. I like the trenchers. Gearing seems to be fine though it is pretty aggressive. It's the only option offered in the mod2. Temps were reasonable. But again gearing is a personal choice. Ultimately what I consider to the be perfect setup with differ from what someone else might. Thanks for watching!
Well first the size of the vehicle is going to have a large bearing on how much it cost. This is a big car so it's going to cost more than smaller cars. Second though you really don't need to do all of these upgrades. This was kind of an ultimate crazy upgrade project. You can get away with a lot less. Check out my video where I compare the buying an ultimate versus building one. The upgrades in that video would cost a lot less and are more reasonable build.
I tried to be clear in the video but in case I wasn't the Amazon parts were mostly just me experimenting. I recommended in the video not to use those and to use higher quality known parts instead. I've done a lot of these upgrades and I like to experiment so sometimes I throw some random stuff in there for myself but it's definitely not something I would recommend most people do.
@DoRC dang youtube made me this you just uploaded this video 😆 I was like wow a part 2...ya in interested on how they will handle as I'm running the badlands on my lcg xmaxx they are great but I do love the trencher
You cannot simultaneously say 'upgrade the motor' and 'sell the stock motor.' Who are supposed to sell the motor to? Why should they buy the stock motor while you suggest somebody else to buy something else? Shouldn't the person that is thinking about buying a stock motor just buy the upgrade? Basically - Should we rob Peter to pay Paul?
Not sure I follow your logic here. It's not like you're forcing the stock motor on someone. There are plenty of people that are perfectly happy with the stock electronics and who will buy them to replace theirs if they break or to have spares. I want more power but not everybody else does. I think it makes a lot more sense to pass the stock electronics onto someone who wants them while making a little bit of money in the process rather than just throwing them in the landfill which I think is what you're suggesting?
He didn't say sell it for retail price or what the upgraded motor he put in cost. Lots of people are happy to buy a stock takeoff at a discounted price. How do you think kit breakers make money..
Yeah I saw them. I'm kind of over Traxxas servos. I still feel like you can get more for the money with a different brand. The power Hobby 760 is an incredible servo and it's cheaper than the 600
@@OGPAPERBOY77 I've never actually had to warranty out a reefs so I haven't experienced their customer service. I only used this one because I got it used at a very good price. Normally I would put a power hobby 760 in here. That's what's in my X-Max and it is taken absolute hell for almost 2 years now with no issues.
All you people all you do is talking about the same old shit i don't care or you can spend three thousand dollars and get aluminum upgrade from your favorite anthromarket company for traxxas XRT or traxxas X Maxx so i don't think 1.500 is a lot of money 3.300 now that's a lot of money let me explain we're money you can buy traxxas XRT ULTIMATE and traxxas X MAXX ULTIMATE so there you go boss thanks for the update and stay safe
Money wasted on that garbage you could learn to fly planes witch belong high in the air. You can do loops , turns, Fly inverted. That a surface rc. Not real scientific guy are ya.
You're definitely right about flying planes. Not only have I been flying RC airplanes since I was 8 I also grew up on a private airport and have spent many hours flying full size airplanes. That being said just because you can do something with one toy doesn't mean you don't want to do it with another :-) I think that we should all enjoy the hobby how it best puts a smile on our face and maybe not necessarily try to dictate how others play with their toy cars. Thanks for watching!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Why do you not have more subs, by far one of the best RC youtubers out there right now!. Really enjoy this content bro
Thanks man I really appreciate it!
will the mmx 8s work with the stock motor?
Yes though you may need to get motor extension wires as the stock motor wires are very short
@@DoRC thanks, I am getting an xmaxx soon and want to upgrade the esc with a castle one. (your my new favourite rc yt channel)
@WowoodogPlays glad you enjoy!
Damn that's a lot! Love the fact that you stay positive when you run into an issue. I really enjoy your videos.
No point in getting down about it. It's all part of the hobby :-) thanks for watching!
@@DoRC Absolutely! Great attitude! Wish some of the others could be like that.
@@benlandrum75 takes all kinds :-)
@@DoRC True.
Can you post a parts list and were to get things?
Thanks
In this case it's pretty much by everything from M2C for the car and then add in your choice of electronics :-)
Now that im not new to the hobby anymore , i see why people dont like traxxas . They straight rip us off . Great video .
Well where as I Don't think the ultimate XRT is the best use of parts from them most of their cars are in line with what the rest of the industry is charging. Keep in mind that this build costs significantly more than what the ultimate XRT XRT will run you. It's a lot better car but it's also a lot more money.
@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj What have you found unreliable about it?
@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj The stock Maxx spur isn't great. Neither is the stock mounting system. A GDS spur with a techno pinion will be your strongest bet. You could also looking to aftermarket motor mounts. It is a little annoying to have to do that but overall the max platform is one of the most durable ones available out of the box.
@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj my Maxx v2 is my bad luck truck . It breaks everytime. All my other trucks survive
@@DoRC you could get a used xmaxx for about 5 to 6 hundred . And spend a thousand in upgrades and it'll destroy Traxxas ultimate version . And honestly the 5th scale arrma lineup is a better buy . You could take the extra 500 and buy extra tires or something .
And now I would like a XRT. You made that one look so fun.
I really enjoy it. I've definitely come to appreciate it over the X-Maxx
Really enjoy your channel and style mate! Keep it up.
Thanks man Glad you enjoy!
What is the reason for trenchers on the XRT?
Love big tires and love stunts. Trenchers are the best for both. They aren't for everyone though.
Just a general question since I’ve been out of the hobby a while but is the hobby wing system better than the velineon or mamba options ? I used to run mamba in all of my older trucks. Just wondering why you swapped out with it being a brand new truck.
A lot of people don't like the Traxxas ESCs. I've never really had too much trouble with them but I would say hobby wings a bit better than them and then castles a bit better than hobby wing but of course Castle cost a lot more. Ultimately unless you feel an actual need to upgrade to from the stock system I would just leave it in there
What motor and esc do you recommend that makes it faster than 50mph? I really want to make my xrt ultimate fast.
The Max 5 5690 combo should get you over 50 miles an hour but I'm really not a top speed kind of person so might not be the best person to ask about those sorts of things.
Is it possible to fit those tires on a Kraton 6s with an adapter or will they bind somewhere?
I'm not sure but these things are massive on the XRT. I don't think the drivetrain could handle it on a Kraton, You have problems with the suspension bottoming out, probably have binding issues, I think the tires would weigh more than the car and some other stuff. I don't think it's a good idea.
@@DoRC " I dont think that's an good idea" from the guy who jumps his cars over 10 feet high is quite a statement😅
Thanks for your feedback!
@johanneswicklein4975 Well I do stuff that I wouldn't consider to be a good idea all the time. If you do want to try it I believe just bash it actually sells adapters that allows you to put these 24 mm hex wheels on 17 mm standard vehicles. Let me know how it goes :-)
Love your channel :) As a newbie to RC and an engineer, is there any chance you can make a list of parts for this upgrade(I also watched your followup vid) ? thanks :)
To be honest I don't really remember everything I put in it now but it was pretty much everything from the M2C catalog and then a few other bits and pieces.
Good Afternoon Do Rc . I pick up a xrt ultimate and i fill and can hear the mesh is not right with the pinion in spur gear can i remove the set pins and set the mesh my self ??
Yes you can. I'd recommend getting the motor mount screw washers that Traxxas sells as they help prevent dense forming in the plastic under the screws which can make fine adjustment difficult.
What's the differential lube you used?!
Can you give me a timestamp so I don't have to watch the whole video? I don't remember what I used off the top of my head
@2:30ish
@carlosg3515 ah. That's just the stock whatever grease that Traxxas put in there. Really it doesn't matter what you use. Anything greasy will be fine. Gears in RC cars get so little use compared to gears in most other applications like automotive or industry that to be perfect last you probably don't need any grease at all but any bearing or other fairly thick grease will work fine
@@DoRC thanks for the info!
Love watching this kind of video, great job, keep ‘em coming 👍🏻
Thanks man I enjoyed making it! Appreciate you hanging out :-)
1:42 you’re crazy 😂
:)
i wish i could subscribe more than once to let you know how hard you work in your videos!!! Many thanks!!
Thanks man. I appreciate it. I'm not sure most people realize exactly how much work goes into a video like this. It's a lot.
yeah i can tell, but the outcome of your editing is sick!@@DoRC
@Traxxas129 Thanks Glad you enjoy!
Nice upgrades! Probably don’t need the Mod 2 gears, never seen those before on a XRT or Xmaxx 👍
Yeah the mod two gears are definitely not necessary. Mod 1.5 works just fine.
awesome build. but now in worried on my build cause i used cnc diff cups and i overfilled the diff and some diff fluid got in the the threads.
Definitely worth checking. I have had screws back out multiple times due to oil in the threads. It really does prevent the threadlock from working properly.
The cow rc table pit mats that are magnetic are sweet because they are dry erase too so you can label what screws are what. Baggies work too tho nice!
I've tried pit mats but I found I don't like them. Even magnetic ones will get me in trouble eventually because I have found that if the screws are all laid out all it takes is bumping the car wants to send them all flying all over the place. I'd rather have them in bags and get them out of the way.
does any one know about using shoe goo glue inside the body to keep it from shattering works real well
Yup:)
ua-cam.com/video/V-7B4Qj8XtU/v-deo.html
Another banger!!!!!!!! You need 1 million subs!!! Quality of video is A1!!!!
Thanks man I appreciate it :-)
Greetings my friend from Greece. One help we drilled for ventilation the rc tires with a belt. thanks. Very good video. Keep going.
Yes these tires are vented!
As a guy used to smaller cars. Sometimes i forget how stupidly massive these cars are. Ill never buy one, but thanks to you and these thorough videos i feel like i do own one 😅
Glad you're able to live vicariously through me and yes they are massive!
Hey how much would you charge if I wanted to buy this car from you
I actually built this to be One of my personal rigs but I could put one together for you though it probably wouldn't be cheap.
Great Video ! I just finished my New XRT Slider. Hobbywing 5690 1250kv and Max5, M2C Mount, M2C Bellcrank Kit, M2C ESC Max5 Mount, GPM Servo Mount and Diff Cup Braces, Garagelife Battery Trays, 2 ea. Gens Ace 4S 8000 Smart Lipo's, Futaba Sensors for my T4PM (Motor Temp, RPM's & Voltage), Mod 1.5 21/35 (as per your recommendation 👍🏻👍🏻) and 2 sets of 1/5 scale Desperado Beadlocks. 1 set of Rear Knobby Bow Ties (170mm x 80mm) and 1 set of Tarmac Busters (170mm x 80mm) along with the MadMax 1/5 Scale Wheel Adapters. Next up is the GPM Chassis Brace. I was in awe running it for the 1st time about a week ago. The power ! My 1st "Real" Electric R/C. Ive only had Gas/Nitro since the 70's with some cheap electrics along the way. Thanks again for your great videos !
Yeah man If this is your first real electric in the modern era you're definitely doing it big! Modern brushless systems are nothing like gas nitro or older electric systems. It's a totally different animal.
Awesome build!! If you are taking the wing off, I would love to see it with a truck body of some sort, it would look great with the larger tyres! Maybe a vintage style truck body, kind of Arrma Outcast style! :)
That's definitely something I'm thinking about doing
Thanks for another great video
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching!
Always liking a do RC video 👍. Thanks
Thanks for watching Glad you enjoyed!
Amazing! I’m just getting into RC and I bought and XRT last summer. I want to start doing some upgrades now I think I’m ready 😂
Glad you enjoyed :-)
NICE work.. when’s the stream coming? I just hit 200 I know but baby steps 😊
Awesome man congrats. The stream is coming it's just finding time to sit down and do it.
Nice Build
Thanks and thanks for watching!
When you dumped out all those M2C parts I was jealous. Lol.
Yeah it's always fun to do a big project like this. A lot of this stuff really isn't necessary though. You can make a very functional basher for a lot less.
Love the M2C upgrades forrrrr sureeeee,God bless u my friend 🙏
Same here. Highest quality stuff in the industry!
Pinion needs a bigger grub tap out for a bigger screw .
Yep That's what I ended up doing.
Use red or blue loctite on the motor shaft before your put the gear on. It’ll keep that pinion from working loose. It’ll take a little more work to get off later on (heat and gear puller) but it will stay put during hard use.
Yeah you can do that but I've actually had to cut gears off that were thread locked on before. Honestly as long as everything is clean and installed correctly you really shouldn't need to do that. The vast majority of pinions that come off do so because they weren't installed correctly.
is that booster stadium? im from ocala too. glad to be supporting a local channel!
Maybe:)
That truck just went from 1500 to 4K real quick 😂
Yeah this is a pretty ridiculous build but it was fun!
If you want an even distribution of power from front to rear, replace the center diff fluid with 500,000 wt or heavier. The front tires won't balloon as much, and the truck will fly! Love the video!
These come from the factory with 20 million in the center differential. Running thinner fluid is just going to make the front tires balloon more as more energy will go to them. 500 k is actually really thin for these cars
@@DoRC performance made it seem otherwise. 🤣 Keep up the great work!
@@robr3 Yeah the next step up is silicone ear plugs which I think are already in this car. It's just a lot of weight and a lot of power so they still do balloon some
😂😂😂I've never seen mod2 gears before, they literally made me laugh out loud 😂😂
Crazy big
They seem really good. They're actually quieter than I thought they would be and are very durable obviously. The only problem is that there aren't a lot of options for spur gears
I Really enjoyed this video 🔥 great info and straight to the point ! Have you seen the new VITAVON xrt/xmaxx diff locker ?Looks much different then anything else I’ve seen 🤔
I have. Interesting design and it would definitely absorb some force but not sure exactly how effective it would be
Love the upgrades. I agree that if you upgrade all those heavier parts you have add a stronger moter and Servo. What I do see with a lot of these upgrades and more power, all that power gets lost cause the cars just wants to wheelie or flip all the time, which makes it uncontrollable to steer since your front wheels are hardly ever on the ground. Would be great if you could do a video on how to power up your car yet at the same time make your car get more traction especially the front wheels, so the power goes into the ground and jet the car fwds so you can actually drive it rather than wheelie and ballooning the tires? I recon lower profile belted tires might help, thicker oil in the diffs, maybe transfer more weight to the front of the car etc. Would be great to get your input on that. Thanks!
Unfortunately these cars are kind of already overpowered from the chassis standpoint from the factory so you're not going to be able to do a whole lot to keep the nose down. A longer lower car will have a lower center of gravity and a longer wheelbase makes it less likely to wheelie but ultimately you're going to run up against one of two problems. It's either going to want a wheelie or it's going to spin wheels. There's just too much power.
The thicker the center differential fluid you put in the more likely it'll be to try to wheelie The thinner the center differential you put in the less likely it'll be to try to wheelie but the more likely it is you're going to turn the front tires into pizza cutters.
Belted tires can help with the pizza cutter problem but It doesn't solve the traction problem.
Ultimately the power to weight ratio on these vehicles is just astronomical and there really isn't any practical way to controllably get that much power to the ground without building something very specialized and that very specialized thing would likely not be very fun.
What would happen if one makes a XRT, Kraton, Talion, Big Rock etc that is Front wheel drive?
@@emilepieters1189 Not much. Front wheel drive kind of sucks for off-roading. Under acceleration the center of gravity shifts backwards and so you'd end up with a whole lot of wheel spin and not much else.
Those differential bearings are massive compared to the ones on Arrmas. Nice
Yeah the differential bearings definitely are not a weak point on this platform.
Theoretically sure about the set screws but those have a point and stamp the shaft , z2 small better than one in this instance , nice truck the xrt of course all the goodies , m2 racing is the snap on in rc parts
Right but the purpose of a set screw is to force the shaft against the side of the gear. If you just have two opposing set screws the only contact between the shaft and the gear will be just at those two little points which isn't enough to hold the gear in place. That's why the vast vast majority of times when you see two set screws they are 90° apart not 180° apart. 180° opposing set screw is really only happen when someone doesn't know what they're doing. That's also evident in this case because they way way under sized the set screw.
i hope you will hit 20k subs soon the parts must have cost a lot
Yeah it's definitely not cheap. I expect to hit 20K in the next week or so
I built almost identical I did a professional pass brushless steel gear servo 56-80kg treal arms gps hub axles treal steering cover vitavon steering assembly m2c racing chassis brace motor esc mount gpm adapter for servo monitor treal as well as treal side skirts hobbywing brushless max6-g2 1650kv and stuck at hearing. Just ordered vitavon cush drive shaft cause the gears slides 1 mm up and 1mm out off the cush drive. Never did anything to diffs got output drive rings aluminum caps all black it's a heck of a rig my fist build in September. I put 1700$ into it way better than the ultimate xrt. Good job you made me feel like I finally did it all right. I love it. Now for mod #2 gears
Nice! I don't think the mod two gears are necessary but they certainly are cool :-)
@DoRC can you recommend anything to take the wiggle away from my cush drive shaft? So I can keep my 1.5 I'm happy with where I am. Just 50$ runs eating gears if I tilt on grass or hit to hard. It's moves enough to explode the pinnion or monkey metal gear. I do not waste any $$$ on those types of metal anymore.
@DoRC I just want speed runs I want a fast xrt. Pls help me out I have about 1750$+ into the black edition I'll show anytime. I have some gems to make some videos with. I'll set up a simple set. My shop is not to be on camera. 😂 I GTA clean I have so many projects. I didn't realize what I built until you did it's twin seriously
Hello I currently bought my first XRT but I not having seen this video before went ahead and bought the ultimate, but now I’m realizing I might have to upgrade some of those upgrades… after I break them of course, any way you can give a quick list of just the important stuff I would need already bought the M2c chassis brace and hinge pins….. by the way I’m really enjoying your content.
Glad you're enjoying. To be honest I would recommend just going out and having fun with the truck and then upgrading things as they break. Everybody's bashing style is going to be different and subsequently what people need to upgrade will often also be different.
Kenny downs fb?
That's me :-)
i added lead eight to the front of my traxxas rustler to help keep the front wheels ob the ground took tire weight and melted them on the stove ans used a match box to mold it in
That might work with something small but you'd have to add an awful lot of weight to the front of this to keep the nose down. There's a ton of power here and a lot of rotational inertia with the big tires. Not saying it's not doable but I'm not sure it would be practical. That added weight is also going to be additional strain on the drivetrain etc. Personally I mostly do stunting and flips and stuff so it doesn't really bother me.
M2C is the best out there, not sure about those tires, I got Proline Masher X belted tires, if I recall they are lighter than stock. The car is so fast don’t worry about air control, it be fine.
Yeah depending on how much power you have and what you're trying to do belted tires can be okay for air control. I like to do things like quadruple backflips so I like non-belted tires :-)
That gear was actually pretty quiet. Too bad it would not stay on. But hell yea bring on another video with more upgrades.
Already underway :-) stay tuned!
They are "modifications" that are not necessarily "upgrades."
I think everything that I put on this vehicle I would consider upgrades. There are definitely some things that aren't but I tried to leave those off of this project. Of course you don't need all of these things to have a good vehicle but I think all of these are definitely upgrades. Which parts would you not consider to be upgrades?
The mod 2 gearing are the most impressive gear to date on a RC. I think you sould put the 2 set screw, the pinion gear have a D shape and really tight no play inside. On my X-Maxx I install 2 set screw on the 8mm shaft with round hole in pinion gear and never have problem :)
It really depends on where the two set screws are. Most gears you see will have two set screws 90° from each other. That works fine as it still pushes the gear against the shaft. If the set screws are 180° apart from each other essentially all you're doing is pushing one set screw against the other. This means that the only contact being made between the gear and the shaft will be those two sets screw points. Remember even a half a thousandth of an inch of gap means that the two aren't touching and aren't interacting with each other. The problem in this case is that the set screw is just too small. It does not have enough force to hold the gear on. The set screw was still thread locked in place on mine. It didn't come loose.
What you can do for not to ooose your engine tandwheel is grinding a bit a hole in the motor axle where comes the screw in. I have do that also whit my X Maxx engine axle! And make a house round your tandwheels so if there comes a little stone between it the tands are not broking. I do that whit all my rc cars if there are open tandwheels!
I appreciate the tip but in this case the grub screw was just too small for the application. I don't think anything would work other than just getting a larger grub screw. I modified the gear to take a larger one and it's been fine.
@@DoRC All right! I have seen the ather video whit the more screws in it. But make a house round your tandwheels i do it whitb thin alu plates and double side tape and ather strong tape.
How much did all that cost lol
I'm not sure I want to add it up. Probably around $1,500 an upgrades total. Subtract a couple hundred bucks you can get back from selling the stock parts and add in the cost of the car you're probably at around $2,200.
Wow more then the rc alone lol
Yeah that's the way it goes sometimes. A decent basher doesn't need to cost you that much though. This was an all-out build. Check out my video where I compare build or buy ultimate for a more reasonable setup.
I love your videos I get alot of good information ty so much
Nice! Subbed
Thanks!
Put blue lock tight on the motor shaft and the set screw use a good hex tool like the red dynamite to tighten the screw SUPER SUPER TIGHT. Let lock tight dry for two or three days. Put hard ear plugs in to the center diff. If you go back to mod 1 gears, tekno gears use bigger than normal set screws and are Very good.
I put red thread locker on the set screw and let it set for 24 hours. It doesn't matter it's too small. Not interested in putting thread locker on the shaft because I want to be able to get the gear off. I've had nightmares when other people thread locked shafts in the past.
This teeny tiny set screw is just too small. I think I have a fix though stay tuned :-)
I am going to earplug the center differential. I just wanted to see how it handled with the stock fluid in it first. Thanks for watching!
@@DoRC yeah I know what you mean that's why I use blue lock tight it works and you can still get the gear off later if you really need to. I keep away from red .
@@oahupc4688 makes sense though I still don't want to glue the gear on. It's just really not the right way to do it.
Looks like tiny blip of the throttle makes it flip way to much power could have left it stock with just servo and gpm hinge pins and hardened gears and had just as much fun for a fraction of all the crap you threw at it but I'm sure you didn't pay for many of those upgrades so have fun 😊
@bretallsop1862 It's that same ability to blip the throttle and flip that allows you to do quadruple backflips and other ridiculous stunts though.
You are absolutely right though You could leave the truck stock or just with a few upgrades and have plenty of fun with it. The point of this upgrade process was to go all out though and I think I did a good job with that :-) If you want a more reasonable upgrade path check out my ultimate buy versus build video. I lay out what I think is a pretty good setup on a budget. Thanks for watching!
i have a redcat caldera and it has 2 spd tranny with nitro engine it dont try to wheely all the time infact non at all
Yeah it's kind of hard to get a nitro to wheely. They just don't have enough power.
I was about to buy those gears from Amazon. Because the gear sizes wouldn’t fit my Maxx 1/10 I had to get the mod 1
20 /50.
Mod one is fine for the max. These are overkill even for the X-Maxx
As A Person who just started 2 yrs ago ..i went off what looks better to me & if it breaks are parts widely available to get it fixed & customer service… Thats How I ended with traxxas.. as far as cost go they all expensive to me 😆🤷🏾♂️.. picture me lookin to by a sledge or xrt for 3-400 & the price is $600 -1000 no matter what brand i pick ..i guess ppl want to play with rc’s right out the box and nothing ever breaks😂😂if they sold u the upgrades already on the car that hold up the longest that we all are currently buying an XRt & Xmaxx would cost $2500-3000 out the store 3700 with batteries & chargers..now how many ppl would like to pay that Tab & its still going to break when u bash it eventually ! .. 4 small aluminum shock caps was $50 ..i felt a lil violated 😆but i know what i got into & if im going to complain about the cost of anything i might as well get out of the rc game..find the best set up for longevity & u can slow down on spending money but u are never going to stop spending in this game
RC's definitely are expensive and Traxxas parts are actually cheaper than many but their initial buy-in is more. Overall they make good stuff though! Glad you're enjoying the hobby :-)
@@DoRC i definitely enjoy your channel keep bashing & Building 💯
@@BenjiiJackson Will do! I've got another sweet build coming soon.
I’ve looked at some of the M2C shock caps for a traxxas 1/10 scale but $80 for shock caps, I’m sure they are nice but for the price I could get an shock set for the same price for me it’s kinda hard to jump on the m2c wagon.
I don't think they make parts for 1/10 Traxxas cars. That basing said their parts aren't cheap but neither is small batch CNC machining in the US. The shocks you can get for $80 were almost certainly made in China where production costs are probably half. Of course your cost is the most important thing but they do make good stuff.
@@DoRCM2C makes parts for the Oversized 1/10th scale Maxx, he's talking about the shock emoltion kit.
Remember the shock caps are NOT JUST CAPS, there emoltion style that has no bladder (Bladderless) so that makes for less rebound especially if used with the M2C pistons. Other aftermarket cheap caps are ok, but 90% of the time the cheaper ones are not Bladderless emoltion style.... It's not just strength, it's a functional performance upgrade😎👍
Good video, those Trenchers are not the best for the XRT as they Ballon way too much, curious as to what you put in the center diff? Shouldn't be anything less than a million, I'd go 20m or Earplugs 90%/1m mix is 😍😎👍 with some Arrma Backflips
@@3SonsRC oh yeah. I don't know why but I always think about the 3S cars when I think 1/10 scale Traxxas And yeah their shock caps are more than just replacement shock caps And I believe that kit comes with shock pistons as well.
I think tire choice is a really personal thing. Trenchers are my favorite because they do balloon. I mostly do stunts and jumps when I'm bashing so the more air control I have the better. Definitely not for everyone though.
The XRT comes from the factory with 20 million in the center differential though I will be ear plugging it. I just wanted to see what it was like with the stock fluid. I usually earplug everything right away and I was curious how this would handle without it. Of course you're plugging will reduce the front tires ballooning but it's going to increase the tendency for it to wheelie which it was already trying to do so I'm not sure it'll make it go any faster :-) different tires of course would be better for that but I don't really care about top speed.
I don’t know how they say the center diff are torque biased tho they are just regular differential to my knowledge or do they have some lsd plates inside?
@@IsaacSchultz-lz8jc no LSD plates at all, it's just marketing lingo
I've wanted to see a Traxxas 8S in person for the 3 years I've been doing this. Definitely want to see if an xmaxx can truly hold up to my bashing, which I seriously doubt. Xmaxx and XRT have been interesting, but out of my budget and no local stores to even check em out.
They're definitely big trucks. Not really sure how you bash but properly equipped they can take a beating.
@DoRC city streets and parks. Basically, it's a skate park without the jumps. Always obstacles or holes to avoid. Thankfully I haven't hit a homeless person yet, almost hit a person sleeping under a tree this past summer, came within an inch of his head at high speed with a tlr typhon.
@@Macgyver46 Yeah you definitely have to watch out for other people. I've hit myself enough times to know that you can absolutely kill somebody even with a 1/8 scale vehicle if you hit some just right.
@DoRC that typhon broke 4 bones in my foot wearing combat boots when I first got it. Only people I've almost hit(besides myself) have always been homeless hiding under or behind stuff. I avoid going to those parks when the homeless camp out now, last thing I want is anyone thinking I did it on purpose.
@@Macgyver46 Yep always got to be careful :-) have fun out there!
I am at a loss here. Until you thicken up that cush drive fluid, it will diff out even with stock Traxxas drivetrain. Mod 2 gearing? Besides the novelty, why? HR, Vitavon, and tons of others make a great set of 1.5s. The servo, the steering, the hinge pins, and the drive cups I get. And don't feel bad about the shock caps. I too have a set of Maxx caps that I bought for one of my Xs. My Max does eat axles, but never shock caps.
Yeah I definitely need to put some thicker fluid in the center differential. I just wanted to see how it behaved without it and it already wants to wheelie pretty quickly so it's going to be a balancing act.
The mod two gearing was definitely just to see what it was all about. Mod 1.5 is perfectly sufficient. I also got them on AliExpress for like 30 bucks so it wasn't a huge investment. Every time I do one of these builds I like to get a few parts that I'm not already comfortable with just to expand my horizons. The gears were one of those.
@@DoRC I honestly thought it would not be as powerful as it is. My XRT King is on a Max5/800 geared 35/34 Mod 1.5 on 8s. It will pull the tires at any throttle but after going 20 mil on the cush drive it doesn't balloon the fronts much at all. The money is in the diff housings. Losing the plastic housings is the best mod ever. And when you call the steering links a mechanical fuse, you make me proud. Are you listening TRAXXAS? Everybody I know that bought Ultimates are now running stock plastics because they broke he aluminum junk they put on them.
@AndrewSury Yep every single time I've put metal steering links on something I've regretted it.
Always amazing
Thanks man Glad you enjoyed!
rad video!!! i need a xmaxx built by do rc plz!!!
If you're serious my email address is in the about section of the channel. You have to look at it on desktop in order to see it though. Maybe we can work something out for a video :-)
@@DoRC very serious I'll email you when I get off work as I only have my phone right now. Thanks for the response
@@kiloknox sounds good!
Yes pls update more I’m waiting for a reason to like this truck
I'll have an update video out soon :-)
One day ill have a xrt or xmaxx id prefer the xrt i love how it looks
This is actually my first XRT and now that I've experienced it I'll be selling my xmax. I like how it handles better but even more I like how much easier it is to work on. Everything's not buried down in the chassis like it is on the X-Max.
Excellent video🫡
Thanks!
Need ear plugs in that center diff
Agreed. I just wanted to see what the stock fluid would be like.
You don't have to do any of these things to make it reliable mind a beast out of the box only broke the wing mount
Absolutely. Most of this stuff is not necessary. The buy or build video I did shows a much more reasonable set of modifications that I would do.
So I really like the way you make your video in some regards. Good lighting, you try to explain things, give some tips about lots of stuff. But how are you going to claim your building a true ultimate basher using random Amazon parts you admit you don’t know how well they’ll work, using wheels that are very impractical for the truck, over gearing the motor that is going to make it super hot and surely burn it out. You’re on the right track in some areas but leading your viewers wildly astray in others.
I specified in the video that I used the Amazon parts as an experiment. And advised not to do it. Gears were an experiment as well.
Tires are a personal choice. I like the trenchers. Gearing seems to be fine though it is pretty aggressive. It's the only option offered in the mod2. Temps were reasonable. But again gearing is a personal choice.
Ultimately what I consider to the be perfect setup with differ from what someone else might. Thanks for watching!
AWESOME build! sexy af! great presentation! get some saga gears and SEND IT!!
Yeah I'm going to try and modify this pinion but mod two is definitely not necessary:)
But it would be nice if I could buy such an expensive game!
The game is definitely expensive! Thanks for watching :-)
@@DoRC I thanx!
:)
Why woud tou spend $1000+ for a RC that need to be upgraded to perform decently? I just dont get it at that price point
Well first the size of the vehicle is going to have a large bearing on how much it cost. This is a big car so it's going to cost more than smaller cars. Second though you really don't need to do all of these upgrades. This was kind of an ultimate crazy upgrade project. You can get away with a lot less. Check out my video where I compare the buying an ultimate versus building one. The upgrades in that video would cost a lot less and are more reasonable build.
Sorry brother you had until saying Amazon, nothing Ultimate off Amazon...
I tried to be clear in the video but in case I wasn't the Amazon parts were mostly just me experimenting. I recommended in the video not to use those and to use higher quality known parts instead.
I've done a lot of these upgrades and I like to experiment so sometimes I throw some random stuff in there for myself but it's definitely not something I would recommend most people do.
you see the new trenchers
Yes I have them pre-ordered.
@DoRC dang youtube made me this you just uploaded this video 😆 I was like wow a part 2...ya in interested on how they will handle as I'm running the badlands on my lcg xmaxx they are great but I do love the trencher
@@onemansvideos2134 agreed. I run the MX43 trenchers on my XRT and I'm hoping these will be a little less stress on the drive train.
You cannot simultaneously say 'upgrade the motor' and 'sell the stock motor.' Who are supposed to sell the motor to? Why should they buy the stock motor while you suggest somebody else to buy something else? Shouldn't the person that is thinking about buying a stock motor just buy the upgrade?
Basically - Should we rob Peter to pay Paul?
Not sure I follow your logic here. It's not like you're forcing the stock motor on someone. There are plenty of people that are perfectly happy with the stock electronics and who will buy them to replace theirs if they break or to have spares.
I want more power but not everybody else does. I think it makes a lot more sense to pass the stock electronics onto someone who wants them while making a little bit of money in the process rather than just throwing them in the landfill which I think is what you're suggesting?
He didn't say sell it for retail price or what the upgraded motor he put in cost. Lots of people are happy to buy a stock takeoff at a discounted price. How do you think kit breakers make money..
Niiice! Im currently building my Ultimate XMaxx
Check out the new 600 Traxxas Servo its a beast!
Yeah I saw them. I'm kind of over Traxxas servos. I still feel like you can get more for the money with a different brand. The power Hobby 760 is an incredible servo and it's cheaper than the 600
@@DoRC I hear you im over servos period i had bad luck with Reefs and his poor customer service and had cheap amazon servos outlast his
@@OGPAPERBOY77 I've never actually had to warranty out a reefs so I haven't experienced their customer service. I only used this one because I got it used at a very good price. Normally I would put a power hobby 760 in here. That's what's in my X-Max and it is taken absolute hell for almost 2 years now with no issues.
@@DoRC niiice We’ll see how long this 600 lasts 🤙
@OGPAPERBOY77 Yeah let me know how it goes!
Don't you trash those original parts and send them to my address. 😇
I never do. I always resell the stock parts to recoup a little bit of the upgrade cost.
All you people all you do is talking about the same old shit i don't care or you can spend three thousand dollars and get aluminum upgrade from your favorite anthromarket company for traxxas XRT or traxxas X Maxx so i don't think 1.500 is a lot of money 3.300 now that's a lot of money let me explain we're money you can buy traxxas XRT ULTIMATE and traxxas X MAXX ULTIMATE so there you go boss thanks for the update and stay safe
Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback :-)
Money wasted on that garbage you could learn to fly planes witch belong high in the air. You can do loops , turns, Fly inverted. That a surface rc. Not real scientific guy are ya.
You're definitely right about flying planes. Not only have I been flying RC airplanes since I was 8 I also grew up on a private airport and have spent many hours flying full size airplanes.
That being said just because you can do something with one toy doesn't mean you don't want to do it with another :-)
I think that we should all enjoy the hobby how it best puts a smile on our face and maybe not necessarily try to dictate how others play with their toy cars. Thanks for watching!