There are four black caps on the back of the door that pop off of the screws in the Door. Pull those four screws and the panel is freed to lift off the bottom track it sets in and set aside.
Is the combination authorization on the circuit board in the keypad, and that controls the lock? If so, a burglar could bring his own keypad, remove your keypad, open it and disconnect the wire, then plug the wire into his own keypad, enter his own code, and the keypad will unlock the safe....if the authorization to unlock the safe all happens in the keypad. I'm curious to find out if that is how that keypad works.
It was not actually the keypad it was the internal locking mechanism that would not release and was going bad. After 10 to 15 some times more we could get it to open. It was something that needed to be replaced in case of emergency at night with predictors breaking into the hen house or an intruder we needed to get in the safe right away. It was just very annoying because every single time we got in there it was multiple times on the keypad.
Should have had a locksmith out there so he could tell you the lock you put in will eventually fail and lock you out. That same lock is the most drilled open lock because of failure of any safe sold. You need to trash that lock and get a name brand like Amsec, S&G or kaba. You will have to tape more holes for them to mount as these cheap safes don’t take universal lock pattern so they can put these cheap locks in them. Before cannon and Winchester used the same lock pattern as any other safe so they can put any lock dial/electronic until they needed to cut cost. They cut cost all around and Winchester and cannon are the most drilled safes out there because of these locks failing.
The lock and the new pad was provided under warranty. I will run it as I couldn't afford a Smith to come out or a different lock. It's working fine now with multiple openings. I was unaware of the better brands. Thanks for the advice on the lock brands.
That's not good, get a hold of Winchester customer service to start the process. Key pad is not hard to replace, but it still sucks getting it set up and it's not working. Make sure you're battery is fresh. It's inside the slide door at the bottom of the pad itself.
@glizzgaup it’s you’re 🥴 and obviously mommy doesn’t love you enough and daddy left huh? Fake lambo picture with a fossil watch on and no money for a locksmith…classic useless teenager
There are four black caps on the back of the door that pop off of the screws in the Door. Pull those four screws and the panel is freed to lift off the bottom track it sets in and set aside.
Is the combination authorization on the circuit board in the keypad, and that controls the lock? If so, a burglar could bring his own keypad, remove your keypad, open it and disconnect the wire, then plug the wire into his own keypad, enter his own code, and the keypad will unlock the safe....if the authorization to unlock the safe all happens in the keypad. I'm curious to find out if that is how that keypad works.
Access code is stored in the lock mechanism. The keypad is just a keypad.
@@Tiny19812003 - Thank you.
How did you get the door open if the keypad failed?
It was not actually the keypad it was the internal locking mechanism that would not release and was going bad. After 10 to 15 some times more we could get it to open. It was something that needed to be replaced in case of emergency at night with predictors breaking into the hen house or an intruder we needed to get in the safe right away. It was just very annoying because every single time we got in there it was multiple times on the keypad.
Most of the time the lock does fail and you have to have drilled open. The lock he installed is also going to fail.
Should have had a locksmith out there so he could tell you the lock you put in will eventually fail and lock you out. That same lock is the most drilled open lock because of failure of any safe sold. You need to trash that lock and get a name brand like Amsec, S&G or kaba. You will have to tape more holes for them to mount as these cheap safes don’t take universal lock pattern so they can put these cheap locks in them. Before cannon and Winchester used the same lock pattern as any other safe so they can put any lock dial/electronic until they needed to cut cost. They cut cost all around and Winchester and cannon are the most drilled safes out there because of these locks failing.
The lock and the new pad was provided under warranty. I will run it as I couldn't afford a Smith to come out or a different lock. It's working fine now with multiple openings. I was unaware of the better brands. Thanks for the advice on the lock brands.
MY SAFE IS TS-26 BRAND NEW JUS GOT IT OUT THE BOX AND IN THE HOUSE AND KEY PAD DONT WORK 🤬😡
That's not good, get a hold of Winchester customer service to start the process. Key pad is not hard to replace, but it still sucks getting it set up and it's not working. Make sure you're battery is fresh. It's inside the slide door at the bottom of the pad itself.
@@lovethehuntOutdoors YES I DID ALL THAT. SENT THEM MY RECEIPT WAITING TO HEAR BACK. THANK YOU 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
@@johnmiller4553 Did they get back to you? I just sent them all my info the other day.
@@ronkempf3103 Ya They Sent Me New Key Pad 🤙🤙
Barely any has that safe and keypad your no help
Dumb af complaining because you have a different safe
Thank you, I can only work on what I have.
@glizzgaup it’s you’re 🥴 and obviously mommy doesn’t love you enough and daddy left huh? Fake lambo picture with a fossil watch on and no money for a locksmith…classic useless teenager