As an owner of a WS3000, I wanted to make you aware of some issues that prevents it from being a more capable machine. First, the blade slot is too narrow for wide plane irons such as the no. 5 1/2 and no. 7. The manufacturer used to offer a wide blade attachment, but stop selling it for some unknown reason. There are only a couple of attachments available for other types of sharpening, such as lathe tools and knives. Second, you may not have noticed, but its design makes it difficult to make your own custom fixtures for it or to use it with other common fixtures. The equipped tool rest, for instance, has two rectangular mounting posts which insert into two opposing angled slots on the body of the machine. It would be difficult to fabricate a mounting posts to align with those slots. There are other attachment slots positioned around the rounded side of the body which have the same issue. It's as if they intentionally designed it to encourage buying their limited selection of attachments. BTW, for flattening chisels or blade on the WS3000, don't lift, but slide it off the disk to right.
Stumpy Nubs built a stand/holder/Tormek jig setup that makes the Work Sharp .... work! He updated it a year or two ago. I'd recommend any Work Sharp owner to check it out.
Interesting solution, I have a Tormek for bevels but its not useful for flattening backs of plane blades and chisels (which can take forever on diamond plates) or sharpening some delicate carving gouges due to the hollow grind. I was considering the Workshop but was discouraged about what people were saying here about that task with it. Does your solution minimize the marking issue with the WS3000? Does the pedal allow for a slow start?
I have CBN wheels on this machine. They work great. I use this for flattening the backs and getting the primary bevel up to 1200 grit. Then I do the rest by hand with Rob Cosman's method. Also, CBN wheels do not get the steel hot like sandpaper. I have 3 double sided wheels, so there is 6 different grits from 80, to 1200. There are so many different sharpening methods, so, it's whatever works for you.
I’ve burnt 3 of the European versions out & now have a USA version which is way better being a bit slower with what must be a stronger motor. I push the chisels on with the rubber disc cleaner instead of my fingers, I find I can move the chisel round easier with a bit more pressure
First off, I have never used a machine to sharpen anything so I won't comment on that, but I have always done it by hand. I have a set of diamond plates and a strop, also I have a set of water stones that I use occasionally. Yes it takes me more time to get the job done, but I get pretty good results. Also I've seen videos from other channels that have reviewed the same machine and they didn't show the problems that you had, which I thank you for, because I might have run out and got one and when the problems started I probably would have taken it back. Great video. Please keep the information coming!
I get you 100% about it taking longs but getting good results. I'm also the kinda nerd that likes sharpening so.... I don't care if it takes me a little longer haha That is exactly why I wanted to try one out! All these reviews make it seem like an amazing product but... what I'm hearing is that it's only good for in-between sharpening and bevels not backs so..... that's very limited for the $$ this costs :(
I have one that I use to sharpen all my chisels and plane irons and I love it. Mine came with the aluminum platform, which I use along with the veritas honing guide to sharpen my wider plane blades. I built the Stumpy Nubs Worksharp 3000 Upgrades station. I have the leather honing disc, which can be tricky to use. If the blade is not lifted off the strop properly, a sharp corner or edge of the blade can catch on the leather and send the chisel or blade flying out of your hand. This happened to my son-in-law, but thankfully he didn't get hurt.
@@BatCaveCreations I use both depending on how bad the blade is. I bought some 6-inch diamond coated flat lap discs in various grits from Amazon for about 10 dollars each. If I'm restoring a beat up hand plane blade or chisel, I will start with the 120 diamond disk. It grinds away metal fast without getting hot.
I got one today. I'd been debating it for a while. Two things stick out as negatives: 1) there are videos and reviews everywhere showing it being used with an attachment that was discontinued like 10 years ago. Even the manual that came with it shows diagrams of that attachment. And since the port on it only accepts up to 2" blades, it means I can't sharpen my jointer's irons except by freehand, which sort of defeats the purpose. 2) It's not good for regrinding bevels. I sat through 3 movies before I was done repairing the damage to an A2 blade, using an 80 grit disc. I ended up buying an attachment for my bench grinder so I can use it in the future. However, for periodic re-honing of chisels and
I came to the same conclusion as you in regards to the backs. I built the Stumpy version of the workstation and now only use it to regrind primary bevels. I use the Veritas Mark II jig and the top of the work table of the stumpy nubs cabinet. I replaced the stock sandpaper for Kingspor 5 inch PSA disks years ago as they last so much longer. In fact I just reground a couple of new chisels to 17 degrees using 120 grit in less than a minute each. Then did the rest on my stones. Simple and quick. Since they were already in the jig, went right to my 1000 diamond, then my 16000 shapton using the micro bevel adjustment. Flattening backs just easier on stones. Yup do it right once. I use the ruler trick on my plane irons so no need there.
I love this!! Thank you so much for sharing and not making me feel crazy haha reviews of this machine are usually so positive I thought I was loosing it hahahha
@@BatCaveCreations it’s a good machine. I used it quite a bit early on to get sharp chisels, but as I learned more technique I just evolved. Use it for what it does well as I have it. Can’t remember last time I used my grinder. Maybe 4 years ago.
I've had a Worksharp 3000 for many years, I won it at a club raffle. I use it for bevels and honing, not for back flattening. I bought several diamond stones during COVID and I use them much more than the 3000 now. Still when I was starting out sharpening the 3000 was very good at getting chisels and plane blades ready for use.
Pretty much the assessment that I have of mine. The CBN wheels from Woodturner's Wonders are indeed quite nice, and they don't have the heating problems that the sandpaper and glass wheels have; let me assure you, the heating problems with those are annoying. Setting the bevel, not a big deal, but flattening the backs, ugh; dealing with the heat means that you're not making a ton of progress. Now, the leather stropping wheel, not bad at all in my opinion -- actually quick and reasonably easy to give a freehand touch-up on. That's what mine's set up for most of the time now.
Thank you for sharing!!! CBN deff the way to go with this. Also, thank you for sharing about the leather strop! Thay would be handy to have for in-between touch ups!
DEFINITELY build the coplanar stand for your Work Sharp 3000. There are videos for that all over YT. Consider buying the CBN wheels for it as well. Yes, they're pricey, but you'll never buy sandpaper again. I have not had the problem of marring the chisel lifting it off the wheel, but if you do, it might be a good idea to invest in a footswitch so you can lift the chisel after the wheel powers down.
Good video. I have one and its unplugged on my bench, which is where its been sitting for quite some time. My plan was to upgrade to the CBN wheels, but they were out of stock for a while. If i were to go back to using it, I would definitely upgrade to the CBN wheels. There was a site that was selling a set of 3 grits for around $150, but I'm not sure if they still are or not.
CBN wheels are the best way to go. They last a long time and are fast. You do have to be careful when flattening the backs of chisels as you explained. Easy to mess up. I’ve reverted to using the diamond plate and glass stones for flattening and the 3000 for doing the bevels.
i have the veritas version, you may remember it on your fb page. mine is the older model with the 1 inch belt sander on one side. i've never used a worksharp, but i use my veritas regularly. the finest grit i use is 9 micron..
I have a Work Sharp and built a platform that I use to grind/sharpen old Stanley plane blades (using the Veritas Mk II honing guide). While I do like the machine, I completely agree with your point on the expense of the sandpaper. I will be getting a set of CBN disks very soon from Wood Turners Wonders.
If I understood correctly, you used 120 sand paper for the back. It is, indeed, not forgiving at all, especially with power tool. But a good review, thanks :)
Lol I did! But it happened with all grits cus I worked my way up in grits. When I got to like the polishing grits wasn't as big of a deal! Thank you for pointing that out cus ppl need to know!!
Here you go! And they are on sale!! www.sharpeningsupplies.com/products/dmt-magna-disc-sharpening-kit?variant=48626826084654¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv7O0BhDwARIsAC0sjWNGXKXJ3nY9qyD6fuIf44xQ82ftu5pdUTyowlTj3DtdqYhkvwISjYMaAvE7EALw_wcB
You can watch the demo video for te diamond plates on DMT's website. You can only use one side of the glass. as they stick to a magnetic film, which is stuck to the glass plate. So, they aren't meant to work upside down, I think.
@@BatCaveCreations This video here is a bit of a Big, Sloppy Bl&%job to the system, but it does show that the DMT discs can be used upside down. ua-cam.com/video/CndPFQNmaJI/v-deo.html
As an owner of a WS3000, I wanted to make you aware of some issues that prevents it from being a more capable machine. First, the blade slot is too narrow for wide plane irons such as the no. 5 1/2 and no. 7. The manufacturer used to offer a wide blade attachment, but stop selling it for some unknown reason. There are only a couple of attachments available for other types of sharpening, such as lathe tools and knives.
Second, you may not have noticed, but its design makes it difficult to make your own custom fixtures for it or to use it with other common fixtures. The equipped tool rest, for instance, has two rectangular mounting posts which insert into two opposing angled slots on the body of the machine. It would be difficult to fabricate a mounting posts to align with those slots. There are other attachment slots positioned around the rounded side of the body which have the same issue. It's as if they intentionally designed it to encourage buying their limited selection of attachments.
BTW, for flattening chisels or blade on the WS3000, don't lift, but slide it off the disk to right.
Thank you!!! This is perfect!!
Stumpy Nubs built a stand/holder/Tormek jig setup that makes the Work Sharp .... work! He updated it a year or two ago. I'd recommend any Work Sharp owner to check it out.
I use a foot switch with my Work Sharp 3000. It allows me to start and stop with the chisel back flat on the disc.
I love that idea! Thank you for sharing!
Interesting solution, I have a Tormek for bevels but its not useful for flattening backs of plane blades and chisels (which can take forever on diamond plates) or sharpening some delicate carving gouges due to the hollow grind. I was considering the Workshop but was discouraged about what people were saying here about that task with it. Does your solution minimize the marking issue with the WS3000? Does the pedal allow for a slow start?
I have CBN wheels on this machine. They work great. I use this for flattening the backs and getting the primary bevel up to 1200 grit. Then I do the rest by hand with Rob Cosman's method. Also, CBN wheels do not get the steel hot like sandpaper. I have 3 double sided wheels, so there is 6 different grits from 80, to 1200. There are so many different sharpening methods, so, it's whatever works for you.
Thank you for sharing! Deff seems like CBN is the answer from what I'm hearing! And ur right 99% of woodworking is preference haha
I’ve burnt 3 of the European versions out & now have a USA version which is way better being a bit slower with what must be a stronger motor.
I push the chisels on with the rubber disc cleaner instead of my fingers, I find I can move the chisel round easier with a bit more pressure
Oooh that is a fantastic idea!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
First off, I have never used a machine to sharpen anything so I won't comment on that, but I have always done it by hand. I have a set of diamond plates and a strop, also I have a set of water stones that I use occasionally. Yes it takes me more time to get the job done, but I get pretty good results.
Also I've seen videos from other channels that have reviewed the same machine and they didn't show the problems that you had, which I thank you for, because I might have run out and got one and when the problems started I probably would have taken it back.
Great video. Please keep the information coming!
I get you 100% about it taking longs but getting good results. I'm also the kinda nerd that likes sharpening so.... I don't care if it takes me a little longer haha
That is exactly why I wanted to try one out! All these reviews make it seem like an amazing product but... what I'm hearing is that it's only good for in-between sharpening and bevels not backs so..... that's very limited for the $$ this costs :(
I have one that I use to sharpen all my chisels and plane irons and I love it. Mine came with the aluminum platform, which I use along with the veritas honing guide to sharpen my wider plane blades. I built the Stumpy Nubs Worksharp 3000 Upgrades station. I have the leather honing disc, which can be tricky to use. If the blade is not lifted off the strop properly, a sharp corner or edge of the blade can catch on the leather and send the chisel or blade flying out of your hand. This happened to my son-in-law, but thankfully he didn't get hurt.
Ah great point on the leather disk!! Thank you for sharing!
Do you use sand paper or diamond plates?
@@BatCaveCreations I use both depending on how bad the blade is. I bought some 6-inch diamond coated flat lap discs in various grits from Amazon for about 10 dollars each. If I'm restoring a beat up hand plane blade or chisel, I will start with the 120 diamond disk. It grinds away metal fast without getting hot.
Thank you for sharing!! Do you have a link to those diamond disks? I couldn't find them :(
I got one today. I'd been debating it for a while. Two things stick out as negatives: 1) there are videos and reviews everywhere showing it being used with an attachment that was discontinued like 10 years ago. Even the manual that came with it shows diagrams of that attachment. And since the port on it only accepts up to 2" blades, it means I can't sharpen my jointer's irons except by freehand, which sort of defeats the purpose. 2) It's not good for regrinding bevels. I sat through 3 movies before I was done repairing the damage to an A2 blade, using an 80 grit disc. I ended up buying an attachment for my bench grinder so I can use it in the future. However, for periodic re-honing of chisels and
This is awesome! Thank you!!!
I came to the same conclusion as you in regards to the backs. I built the Stumpy version of the workstation and now only use it to regrind primary bevels. I use the Veritas Mark II jig and the top of the work table of the stumpy nubs cabinet. I replaced the stock sandpaper for Kingspor 5 inch PSA disks years ago as they last so much longer. In fact I just reground a couple of new chisels to 17 degrees using 120 grit in less than a minute each. Then did the rest on my stones. Simple and quick. Since they were already in the jig, went right to my 1000 diamond, then my 16000 shapton using the micro bevel adjustment. Flattening backs just easier on stones. Yup do it right once. I use the ruler trick on my plane irons so no need there.
I love this!! Thank you so much for sharing and not making me feel crazy haha reviews of this machine are usually so positive I thought I was loosing it hahahha
@@BatCaveCreations it’s a good machine. I used it quite a bit early on to get sharp chisels, but as I learned more technique I just evolved. Use it for what it does well as I have it. Can’t remember last time I used my grinder. Maybe 4 years ago.
@@bcargnel thank you!! Great advice!
I've had a Worksharp 3000 for many years, I won it at a club raffle. I use it for bevels and honing, not for back flattening. I bought several diamond stones during COVID and I use them much more than the 3000 now. Still when I was starting out sharpening the 3000 was very good at getting chisels and plane blades ready for use.
Thank you for sharing! It helps others see more opinions!
Pretty much the assessment that I have of mine. The CBN wheels from Woodturner's Wonders are indeed quite nice, and they don't have the heating problems that the sandpaper and glass wheels have; let me assure you, the heating problems with those are annoying. Setting the bevel, not a big deal, but flattening the backs, ugh; dealing with the heat means that you're not making a ton of progress. Now, the leather stropping wheel, not bad at all in my opinion -- actually quick and reasonably easy to give a freehand touch-up on. That's what mine's set up for most of the time now.
Thank you for sharing!!! CBN deff the way to go with this. Also, thank you for sharing about the leather strop! Thay would be handy to have for in-between touch ups!
DEFINITELY build the coplanar stand for your Work Sharp 3000. There are videos for that all over YT. Consider buying the CBN wheels for it as well. Yes, they're pricey, but you'll never buy sandpaper again. I have not had the problem of marring the chisel lifting it off the wheel, but if you do, it might be a good idea to invest in a footswitch so you can lift the chisel after the wheel powers down.
Good video. I have one and its unplugged on my bench, which is where its been sitting for quite some time. My plan was to upgrade to the CBN wheels, but they were out of stock for a while. If i were to go back to using it, I would definitely upgrade to the CBN wheels. There was a site that was selling a set of 3 grits for around $150, but I'm not sure if they still are or not.
Thank you!!
That's $$ for the CBN but maybe that's normal for this lol in that price range I'd get CBN for my bench grinder lol
The 3-wheel set of CBN wheels are back in stock.
CBN wheels are the best way to go. They last a long time and are fast. You do have to be careful when flattening the backs of chisels as you explained. Easy to mess up. I’ve reverted to using the diamond plate and glass stones for flattening and the 3000 for doing the bevels.
Thank you for sharing! I am hearing thats the general consensus, don't use for backs but use for bevels lol
i have the veritas version, you may remember it on your fb page. mine is the older model with the 1 inch belt sander on one side. i've never used a worksharp, but i use my veritas regularly. the finest grit i use is 9 micron..
I love that veritas model never used it but love the idea!!! Hope to find one in the wild some day lol
Issue solved in a day? Amazing customer service! Nice to see.
100% agree!!!! Super rare!
I have a Work Sharp and built a platform that I use to grind/sharpen old Stanley plane blades (using the Veritas Mk II honing guide). While I do like the machine, I completely agree with your point on the expense of the sandpaper. I will be getting a set of CBN disks very soon from Wood Turners Wonders.
Deff smart using the MK II with this!
I always forget to mention CBN :( hahaha
Can you use the Cubitron adhesive disks from Taytools with the Work Sharp? Just curious....
Ooh I have no idea :( I'm sorry!
I had that one for awhile, couldn't get used to it and felt like I was always changing paper
If I understood correctly, you used 120 sand paper for the back. It is, indeed, not forgiving at all, especially with power tool. But a good review, thanks :)
Lol I did! But it happened with all grits cus I worked my way up in grits. When I got to like the polishing grits wasn't as big of a deal! Thank you for pointing that out cus ppl need to know!!
Worksharp has A-1 customer service.
Where do I get the diamond plates PLEASE???
Here you go! And they are on sale!!
www.sharpeningsupplies.com/products/dmt-magna-disc-sharpening-kit?variant=48626826084654¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv7O0BhDwARIsAC0sjWNGXKXJ3nY9qyD6fuIf44xQ82ftu5pdUTyowlTj3DtdqYhkvwISjYMaAvE7EALw_wcB
Thanks@@BatCaveCreations
Anytime!
You can watch the demo video for te diamond plates on DMT's website. You can only use one side of the glass. as they stick to a magnetic film, which is stuck to the glass plate. So, they aren't meant to work upside down, I think.
Ah ok thank you letting me know! Didn't realize that!
@@BatCaveCreations This video here is a bit of a Big, Sloppy Bl&%job to the system, but it does show that the DMT discs can be used upside down.
ua-cam.com/video/CndPFQNmaJI/v-deo.html
Thank you! Sorry YT was hiding replys from us but they are back now! :D
“All that glitters is not gold”.
The dream is a Tormek with diamond wheels. Some day....
Dude! YES but its so unrealistic to me due to the price alone lol I'd get a new bandsaw before that system 😅
@@BatCaveCreations saaaaaame