when I first watched this video almost 12yrs ago, Eric had a couple hundred subs and now he's at 1.6mil subs.. well deserved! Thanks for all you do Eric and the detailed information you provide in all your videos, I'm currently watching it as a refresher.
I liked Eric's old original honest style in his vids I'd say it's why he's done so well. I remember one Christmas When I discovered Eric's vids I watched the entire back-log ,Now it's all about about product placement and cheap tools .this vid was made when he was a real working mech or had that feel of hand to mouth. How ever the fixing it forward vids are a step in the right direction
One thing that is also kinda important is you need your throttle at Full Open to get an accurate compression reading. This at least applies on my B Series Honda engine. 1) Engine should be warm for an accurate reading (I understand that the piston rings expand with heat?) 2) Full Open Throttle 3) It is also best is all spark plugs are removed before starting An additional note is that you can buy a remote starter switch to make the process way easier and allows you to watch the gauge closer.
Good video i might ad that if you have a gauge that has a air hose hookup you can use it to pressurize the cylinder and check for coolant leaks like a cracked head or bad head gasket by looking for bubbles in the radiator by taking off the cap.
@jdmsrv93 I take them all out, makes for more accurate readings in my opinion, that way the other cylinders are not trying to compress while your doing the test.
@Yobidefy Actually this test was done on a working engine and the readings on an engine of this kind of mileage is actually pretty typical in my experience.
Dont forget to have the throttle WIDE OPEN when performing a compression test to allow maximum air intake. If you have an electronic throttle, place key on engine off and block open the throttle pedal all the way to the floor before cranking. Also, perform a COLD engine compression test and a WARM compression test. Some engines misbehave only when cold or only when at operating temp. Dont bother with the wet compression test unless you have a large variation from specifications.
Hi Eric. I have a 1973 Ford F100 that is burning a little oil. I have had the valve seals replaced and the burning is still there. I have bought a compression tester and with the help of this video will do the test myself. I do not have an air compressor so I can't do a leak down. Thank you for posting this video and also doing it in an understandable and clear manner for the average person without the foul language that is featured in so many of these videos. Regards, Donald.
it's a good idea to precisely measure the equal amount of oil for each cylinder for a wet test. This way you won't have to worry about putting more or less oil and gettng wrong readings thus possibly making a really bad decision about the engine.
if you have low compression.... your pulling the engine so it doesnt matter... a wet compression test is to figure out if its rings or valves.. really doesnt matter how much atf you dump in the cylinders
Great job on the compression test lesson. Keeping it within common sense and not to technical. Thank you very much. Look forward to seeing more teaching videos. My subject vehicle is a 97 Nissan D21 Hardbody Pickup.
Some people would say yes, their argument being that a cold engine has better compression because the elements inside are cold and not expanded. So they recommend warming up the engine to get the metals to expand before checking compression to get a more "true" reading. I've never done a compression test so I can't give my opinion, but the logic seems reasonable.
Vincent Gutierrez I did mine warm and they all came out at 14.5 - 15 bar, this is in a 1996 Audi, I'll have to do one cold some day and a 'wet' test to see the difference.
Literally the best auto technician on UA-cam. Also, a damn good teacher. Having amazing knowledge of a subject is one thing but being able to spread that knowledge is something even better.
@@RedEyedJedi right, in his videos! Scotty has 50+ years experience working on internal combustion engines. If you can contact him, you will see that Scotty is just better and has probably seen every type of problem with an engine. Eric struggles to diagnose some of his problems with engines. Get in touch with Scotty via email and you will see that he is just more knowledgeable. Period.
@@RedEyedJedi also, does Eric ever author a book? Has Eric ever received an Emmy award for an automotive television show? Does he have an education including a Master’s degree? Get the fuck outta here or shut the fuck up.
“Best auto technician”. Lol he’s a tech! Not an ASE Certified Master Mechanic. Scotty holds many different credentials and is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic.
Eric, I recently had my Dodge Durango, '06, 3.7 eng. Fuel pump and tank replaced as per the diagnosis of the Chrysler dealership. The so called failed fuel pump was only recently replaced last fall of 2014. Then after that, I left the dealership $1800 lighter in my wallet, only to see all my lights flashing on and off and all the bells associated with them, but the Vehicle running well. I finally got it home without incident and it still ran for a few days (still with the lights and bells active) until one morning, she just wouldn't turn over. So I had a local garage guy diag it and it indicated a PCM failure. $250 bucks later, it was replaced with the Codes supposedly already in place. But, you guessed it! Still, not turning over. The local garage did not have the proper machine to input the needed codes, so back to the local Dodge dealership which they claimed to have input the codes. But without success, then replaced all plugs, still no success..Then after all that they finally tell me my compressions are bad. I DONT BELEIVE THEM. If my compressions were bad, I don't think my engine would be running as smooth as it did, then all of a sudden die out! But I could be wrong, it does have alot of miles..I know you can't dianose on a blog. But now, she doesn't even turn or start, just makes this crazy electrical static noise when I try to turn it over. I still say it's either a bad code input or bad PCM!
frednich9603 The way we do it at school is by pulling the fuse or relay, whichever is easiest, for the fuel pump and pulling the plugs one at a time. However, since you need to pull all of them anyway to do a full test, I would go ahead and pull all of them at once and have it done unless you are concerned with confusing the firing order when you reinstall the spark plugs. I'm not a professional, but I've had several years of instruction and a small touch of experience. I'm not ETCG good, but I know some things lol. Hopefully this helps answer your question, and good luck
Very good job man! I'm restoring a trans am and with your help I am doing all of my own work. You speak well and explain things in great detail.......I wish all of my teachers in school were in depth. Thumbs up!! Subscribed!!
Wow years ago Eric was answering the comments a lot but just like everybody else he tends to ignore most of the comments or questions since he has over a million subs!!!
A couple points if anyone has a 2003-2008 350Z and possibly other cars- You should generally do it with a warm engine otherwise your readings will more than likely be low. Get some gloves, because the spark plugs will be hot. Then pull fuse #81, fuel pump fuse. Let engine idle until it dies then try to start again until your sure there's no fuel pressure left. Remove all coil pack and spark plugs. Disconnect coil pack connectors.(this will disable your ignition system). Cover the spark plug holes with clean rags so no dirt or debris gets in them. Put gauge in cylinders to be tested. Turn over engine about 5 seconds each. If there are any cylinder pressures that are low, squirt a little engine oil in the cylinder, if pressure is higher after oil is squirted in, this would indicate worn rings. You also have to be W.O.T. otherwise you will end with 15 lbs lower than the correct cylinder compression. If a cylinder is reading low pressure and the squirting oil trick doesn't raise the pressure, then you're looking at a valve problem. According to the FSM the reading should be 185PSI, minimum of 142PSI. There should be no more than 14 PSI difference between the highest and lowest cylinder. They also mention that if two or more cylinders are low and the oil squirt thing doesn't work then you could have a head gasket problem.
Wow I like the way you explained it! I recently had a compression test done on my 2000 Camry with 398 K miles. My mechanic told me that the compression rate was almost perfect and predicted at least another 100k. I didn't know what the hell he was talking about so I just nodded my head in agreement. LOL
@Catass2089 The spark plugs don't make the engine turn over the starter does and yes you would do this same thing on any engine it's just a matter of putting the gauge in to measure the compression.
Great video, Thanks. I just purchased a 1960 Chevy Impala with a 348ci. I'm having major issues with 4 cylinders oiling up and fouling plugs. I replaced the points and went with a hotter coil and Petronix I ignition. No change. The old coil was 55 years old! There's three cylinders next to each other on the drivers side and one on the passenger that are doing this. I'm thinking on the compression test next and removing the heads to check out the gaskets.
Best video ever. You are an excellent, logical teacher, Eric, and videography is some of the best. UA-cam = crystallized knowledge. My father, a mechanical assembler/mechanic asks me how I know this stuff. I tell him, "I am the Smart son..." Thanks again!
You're the man Eric. Thanks for your help, ive been watching your videos for years, and i appreciate how concise and informative your videos are, always containing your signature amount of dry humor. hahaha
mann!! seriously, i want to met you in person man!, you have helped me so much... ( btw: im going for automotive technology ) and even though i know what are you talking about, you helped me to get into the details more easily.. Thanks man!
When I do a compression test I always hook up a battery charger. All that cranking will drain down the battery and make the starter turn slower. Great video! Thanks.
Thank you, Eric..... I have seen your videos before, however some of the first ones we're too long for me.... So I didn't subscribed, but now I have. Just wanted to say thank you.
Hey thanks for the educational video my friend. Relevant to me right now because I'm having a new head put on my MINI Cooper S. Two very toasted valves, and my plugs looked even worse than what you had right there. Excited to be back on the road soon, with more knowledge thanks to you!
Check your firing order, either via a manual or just Google image search the make, model & year of the car, plus the phrase "firing order." When you get a result, make sure the image specifies which direction the engine is facing in the diagram, as in whether the cylinders are being counted from the front of the car or the back.
sparkplugs are so under rated these days, people relay too much on car diagnostics, when sparkplugs can basically tell 80% of the story:) nice video im glad i "found you";)
This was the point Eric the car guy realized he had 500 subs. He left his old job, started a new family, moved to a different continent or a planet altogether. Then realized they do not have cars over there, however his expertise came in handy in fixing moon buggies.
It's much better to remove them all when testing. It puts less stress on your starter since it is only compressing air in the cylinder with the tester and the engine cannot accidentally start up if it doesn't have any spark plugs in it.
What do you check next if you have good compression, spark and fuel on all cylinders, but there is one cylinder that does not fire no matter what. No check engine light either,
gotta feel good to look and see the 662,000 subscriber mark coming up. 500 was a proud moment now look, on your way to the gold play button, good job bud.I like all the videos
Didn't get a response on the forum, so I thought I'd post here too. Apart from the larger pressure that was ultimately achieved in the wet test what I also noticed was that the needle's jumps along the way to 160 were different too. And that got me thinking: are the numbers that are attained at these intermediate "stopping points" of the needle while the pressure builds to its ultimate value important? My thinking is that yes, they are. That is, how close the first pressure value is to the last/ultimate pressure value has meaning. So in other words, it isn't just the final pressure, it is how the cylinder gets there that has importance. I mean, if a cylinder has a low first pressure but builds to an acceptable final pressure that's one thing. But if that cylinder has a higher first pressure before building to an also-acceptable final pressure then that paints a different picture. So the question is: is this correct? And if so, how can you put a metric to gauge "how good" a cylinder is based on this data-progression or building of pressure during the test of a single cylinder? Maybe like first number is 50% of the final is ok? 30%?
Man thank you so much for that info about the pistons being offset and for explaining you how to always know where cylinder 1 is on a V shaped engine. I never knew about that one! Now I just have to figure out how to always know which is bank 1 vs bank 2. It seems like each manufacturer is different with that
you are a legend man. I've learned every thing about cars from you. Everything you say is actually correct and accurate unlike most youtube channels lmao
On Hondas and Acuras of this genre (B, D, H, F, series etc) all you need to do to shut off fuel and spark is pull the ECU fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. This fuse is labeled "Backup / Radio" Its easier than unplugging things in my opinion... Engine should be warmed up prior to doing the test. The throttle plate should be fully openend during cranking to allow air to flow freely into the cylinder.
just a couple of things I would like to mention, with a lot of non starters I had it was down to excessive fuel in the bores, due to excesvive cranking etc with low battery, that done 2 things, it soaked the plug in fuel so it wouldn't fire, and the Petrol/gas got into the bores and washed all the oil off the cylinders and lost the compression, I cleaned the plugs and put some oil down the bores which gave it a bit of compression and it started......Fred
A little bit of oil in the fuel constantly will help keep the cylinders and rings from wearing,not too much oil ,maybe about 1/ 4 ounce per gallon..Marvel oil is great and no worries about catalytic converts burning up..It is a great way way to break in a new engine also..
@chamblizi I would fix the oil leak first and check the oil pressure with an analog gauge to see what pressure you really have, if the engine has noise AND low oil pressure it may be time for a rebuild or replacement.
I love this
"Today I hit 500 subscribers."
Today he has 1.5 million!
when I first watched this video almost 12yrs ago, Eric had a couple hundred subs and now he's at 1.6mil subs.. well deserved! Thanks for all you do Eric and the detailed information you provide in all your videos, I'm currently watching it as a refresher.
I liked Eric's old original honest style in his vids I'd say it's why he's done so well. I remember one Christmas When I discovered Eric's vids I watched the entire back-log ,Now it's all about about product placement and cheap tools .this vid was made when he was a real working mech or had that feel of hand to mouth. How ever the fixing it forward vids are a step in the right direction
It's crazy how I come back to use these old videos when he had 500 subs great guy
500 subscribers then, 500,000 now. We all appreciate you Eric!
Edit: 1.5M now
joeman543 and now 614k daym
+ROB ANDRETTI 676,238 and growing strong ...
+Adil Zaman 689,163
+josh mcbride 706,914.....
+joeman543 721,052 now :D
Lol im watching it now 2019 and he’s got 1.3M subscribers
1.4M
And me in 2020
1.8
@@lshooku well me mustve lost 400k
Right. Still helpful as hell though. 🤙
Thank you for saying “why” to do things. Soooo helpful.
One thing that is also kinda important is you need your throttle at Full Open to get an accurate compression reading. This at least applies on my B Series Honda engine.
1) Engine should be warm for an accurate reading (I understand that the piston rings expand with heat?)
2) Full Open Throttle
3) It is also best is all spark plugs are removed before starting
An additional note is that you can buy a remote starter switch to make the process way easier and allows you to watch the gauge closer.
Good video i might ad that if you have a gauge that has a air hose hookup you can use it to pressurize the cylinder and check for coolant leaks like a cracked head or bad head gasket by looking for bubbles in the radiator by taking off the cap.
Now your at 1.1 million and i'm one of them. Thank you Eric for what you do, it has been invaluable to many of us diy'ers.
@jdmsrv93 I take them all out, makes for more accurate readings in my opinion, that way the other cylinders are not trying to compress while your doing the test.
Actually my friend you’ve got something that money can’t buy you’ve got a very nice pleasant voice to listen to ! Jim .
@Yobidefy Actually this test was done on a working engine and the readings on an engine of this kind of mileage is actually pretty typical in my experience.
All the power-mech students in our school are using your videos to learn online, good job mate!
LOL 500, now you have 1.3 mil! Keep up the great work Eric. Keep en coming. I learn something new every time.
Congratulations Eric - you really have contributed to assisting me over the last few years to do work on all of my cars and my family's cars.
500 subs. Now you have over one million
12,000,000 right about now!
Dont forget to have the throttle WIDE OPEN when performing a compression test to allow maximum air intake. If you have an electronic throttle, place key on engine off and block open the throttle pedal all the way to the floor before cranking. Also, perform a COLD engine compression test and a WARM compression test. Some engines misbehave only when cold or only when at operating temp. Dont bother with the wet compression test unless you have a large variation from specifications.
@meganerchia Good eye, it was ATF. I just had an abundance of it so I put it in my oil can. ATF is oil with some additives and dye added.
Should you use a specific ATF for the wet test?
Hi Eric. I have a 1973 Ford F100 that is burning a little oil. I have had the valve seals replaced and the burning is still there. I have bought a compression tester and with the help of this video will do the test myself. I do not have an air compressor so I can't do a leak down. Thank you for posting this video and also doing it in an understandable and clear manner for the average person without the foul language that is featured in so many of these videos. Regards, Donald.
it's a good idea to precisely measure the equal amount of oil for each cylinder for a wet test. This way you won't have to worry about putting more or less oil and gettng wrong readings thus possibly making a really bad decision about the engine.
if you have low compression.... your pulling the engine so it doesnt matter... a wet compression test is to figure out if its rings or valves.. really doesnt matter how much atf you dump in the cylinders
@@Turboboob regular oil or thick stuff for the wet test?
@@mtrott101 5w30/10w30/atf, doesn’t matter. I’ve used it all with the same result.
@@mtrott101 wouldn't you use tge same oil your car takes?
This was fun to come back to - you talked about having 500 subs at the beginning, and now you're approaching 2 mil. Thanks for all the help Eric!
@miniwee3 Yes you need to be at WOT when doing the test.
One of the best info videos I've ever seen. To the point, and showed the diagnostics on how to perform them. Thanks bud.
You are a brilliant teacher! Keep up the good work
From 500 to 1.7 million subs in 10 years. Love and appreciate your channel sir.
lol 500 subscribers LOL. Watching this now and he has 778k.
839k
1,100,874 views
where
Mike Gillett 985k now lmao
1 mil niggas
A million. We're still watching Eric. All the way across the Atlantic in England. Keep it up mate.
dang 500 subscribers. Now you have over 650K.
+Glycerin 740k now
+BigDirtyBasterd 978k
+Mystickneon 759k now
+Peter Cas 782,976 now
23k subs in 1 months wow, thats arround 700 subs per day
~ 795 k :)
Can't fault this video, you seem to have covered everything. Just wish every mechanic was up to your standard. Many thanks.
Great job on the compression test lesson. Keeping it within common sense and not to technical. Thank you very much. Look forward to seeing more teaching videos. My subject vehicle is a 97 Nissan D21 Hardbody Pickup.
500 a little over 3 years ago. now he's at around 150,000. congratulations man!
Lol 500 subscriber mark. You're almost at 500,000 now!!
Going to do a compression test on my '71 MGBGT today for the first time. Thanks for the video.
lol 500 subs, now i see 1.2M
Just bought an RB20DET and started learning the mechanical ins and outs of a combustion engine. Thanks very much for these informative videos!
Great videos, love the detail on each one which is missing from a lot of similar mechanics!
Thanks :)
From 500 subscribers to 1.35million on 9/2019. Rock on ETCG 🤘
Shouldn't the engine be to operational temperature?
No mate.
bazthehandyman
Oh right, cool (excuse the pun), save on petrol. Cheers.
Some people would say yes, their argument being that a cold engine has better compression because the elements inside are cold and not expanded. So they recommend warming up the engine to get the metals to expand before checking compression to get a more "true" reading. I've never done a compression test so I can't give my opinion, but the logic seems reasonable.
Vincent Gutierrez I did mine warm and they all came out at 14.5 - 15 bar, this is in a 1996 Audi, I'll have to do one cold some day and a 'wet' test to see the difference.
That'd be great! I'm always down for some good science and crunching numbers to clear up car myths haha
Literally the best auto technician on UA-cam. Also, a damn good teacher. Having amazing knowledge of a subject is one thing but being able to spread that knowledge is something even better.
Scotty Kilmer.
@@WickedG5150 Scotty is also good but he's not as good as Eric if you actually watch his videos and the level of detail he goes into.
@@RedEyedJedi right, in his videos! Scotty has 50+ years experience working on internal combustion engines. If you can contact him, you will see that Scotty is just better and has probably seen every type of problem with an engine. Eric struggles to diagnose some of his problems with engines. Get in touch with Scotty via email and you will see that he is just more knowledgeable. Period.
@@RedEyedJedi also, does Eric ever author a book? Has Eric ever received an Emmy award for an automotive television show? Does he have an education including a Master’s degree?
Get the fuck outta here or shut the fuck up.
“Best auto technician”. Lol he’s a tech! Not an ASE Certified Master Mechanic. Scotty holds many different credentials and is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic.
Engine compression test Perfectly described and totally understood! Thank you Eric, now can help me understand my freakin wife?
Just get a new one, not worth fixing it.
Eric, I recently had my Dodge Durango, '06, 3.7 eng. Fuel pump and tank replaced as per the diagnosis of the Chrysler dealership. The so called failed fuel pump was only recently replaced last fall of 2014. Then after that, I left the dealership $1800 lighter in my wallet, only to see all my lights flashing on and off and all the bells associated with them, but the Vehicle running well. I finally got it home without incident and it still ran for a few days (still with the lights and bells active) until one morning, she just wouldn't turn over. So I had a local garage guy diag it and it indicated a PCM failure. $250 bucks later, it was replaced with the Codes supposedly already in place. But, you guessed it! Still, not turning over. The local garage did not have the proper machine to input the needed codes, so back to the local Dodge dealership which they claimed to have input the codes. But without success, then replaced all plugs, still no success..Then after all that they finally tell me my compressions are bad. I DONT BELEIVE THEM. If my compressions were bad, I don't think my engine would be running as smooth as it did, then all of a sudden die out! But I could be wrong, it does have alot of miles..I know you can't dianose on a blog. But now, she doesn't even turn or start, just makes this crazy electrical static noise when I try to turn it over. I still say it's either a bad code input or bad PCM!
I wish you could work on my Honda
He makes these videos so you can work on your own honda
1.52m subs now and back then you was happy from 500. Eric i love you bro, seriously.
lol 500 subs eh? Think you're a little past that now.
this was in his old shop, from when he began his channel :) just a fyi
@1972JasonRS It's not often knock sensors go bad, you might want to check the wiring or the electrical connections one or both could be damaged.
914,052 from 500 to almost a million, he made it.. lol
Hey Eric! In the future, say around 5/30/2015 you will have 612,720 subscribers and have lost some weight! Congratulations! You've taught me a lot
How many of the people watching this are subaru guys? -_-
Dan_Vallush I'm a 4g63 guy..lol
Dan_Vallush I'm an rx7 guy
Celica life
Dan_Vallush zoom zoom
Subaru +1
@Mypringles Yea often the basic mechanical function of the engine is overlooked when dealing with performance issues. Good luck.
frednich9603 The way we do it at school is by pulling the fuse or relay, whichever is easiest, for the fuel pump and pulling the plugs one at a time. However, since you need to pull all of them anyway to do a full test, I would go ahead and pull all of them at once and have it done unless you are concerned with confusing the firing order when you reinstall the spark plugs. I'm not a professional, but I've had several years of instruction and a small touch of experience. I'm not ETCG good, but I know some things lol. Hopefully this helps answer your question, and good luck
Very good job man! I'm restoring a trans am and with your help I am doing all of my own work. You speak well and explain things in great detail.......I wish all of my teachers in school were in depth. Thumbs up!! Subscribed!!
Wow years ago Eric was answering the comments a lot but just like everybody else he tends to ignore most of the comments or questions since he has over a million subs!!!
You explain things very well. I'm grateful as this is very rare on youtube.
A couple points if anyone has a 2003-2008 350Z and possibly other cars- You should generally do it with a warm engine otherwise your readings will more than likely be low. Get some gloves, because the spark plugs will be hot. Then pull fuse #81, fuel pump fuse. Let engine idle until it dies then try to start again until your sure there's no fuel pressure left.
Remove all coil pack and spark plugs. Disconnect coil pack connectors.(this will disable your ignition system). Cover the spark plug holes with clean rags so no dirt or debris gets in them. Put gauge in cylinders to be tested. Turn over engine about 5 seconds each. If there are any cylinder pressures that are low, squirt a little engine oil in the cylinder, if pressure is higher after oil is squirted in, this would indicate worn rings. You also have to be W.O.T. otherwise you will end with 15 lbs lower than the correct cylinder compression. If a cylinder is reading low pressure and the squirting oil trick doesn't raise the pressure, then you're looking at a valve problem.
According to the FSM the reading should be 185PSI, minimum of 142PSI. There should be no more than 14 PSI difference between the highest and lowest cylinder. They also mention that if two or more cylinders are low and the oil squirt thing doesn't work then you could have a head gasket problem.
Wow I like the way you explained it! I recently had a compression test done on my 2000 Camry with 398 K miles. My mechanic told me that the compression rate was almost perfect and predicted at least another 100k. I didn't know what the hell he was talking about so I just nodded my head in agreement. LOL
Hi..Eric i just want to say your videos are a great help for a DIY man like me...thanks for all your help and the videos help me out alot..!!!!
Thank you for this! I recently bought an integra so it was perfect that you also used an integra in this
@Catass2089 The spark plugs don't make the engine turn over the starter does and yes you would do this same thing on any engine it's just a matter of putting the gauge in to measure the compression.
@PabloMessier Yes if the spark plug does not seal the opening to the cylinder properly it can cause compression loss.
Thanks Eric , for your lesson on how to use a compressor tester in wet and dry and explain it on details and organized. I work the same way as you do.
Started the video with 500 subscribers. Now you have 1.65 million 👏🏽👏🏽
Great video, Thanks. I just purchased a 1960 Chevy Impala with a 348ci. I'm having major issues with 4 cylinders oiling up and fouling plugs. I replaced the points and went with a hotter coil and Petronix I ignition. No change. The old coil was 55 years old! There's three cylinders next to each other on the drivers side and one on the passenger that are doing this. I'm thinking on the compression test next and removing the heads to check out the gaskets.
Best video ever. You are an excellent, logical teacher, Eric, and videography is some of the best. UA-cam = crystallized knowledge. My father, a mechanical assembler/mechanic asks me how I know this stuff. I tell him, "I am the Smart son..." Thanks again!
You're the man Eric. Thanks for your help, ive been watching your videos for years, and i appreciate how concise and informative your videos are, always containing your signature amount of dry humor. hahaha
mann!! seriously, i want to met you in person man!, you have helped me so much... ( btw: im going for automotive technology ) and even though i know what are you talking about, you helped me to get into the details more easily..
Thanks man!
does it matter if the engines hot or cold?
When I do a compression test I always hook up a battery charger. All that cranking will drain down the battery and make the starter turn slower. Great video! Thanks.
This UA-cam channel has come a long way. 1.53M subscribers now.
Thank you, Eric..... I have seen your videos before, however some of the first ones we're too long for me.... So I didn't subscribed, but now I have. Just wanted to say thank you.
Hey thanks for the educational video my friend. Relevant to me right now because I'm having a new head put on my MINI Cooper S. Two very toasted valves, and my plugs looked even worse than what you had right there. Excited to be back on the road soon, with more knowledge thanks to you!
This is by far the best information that I have found, easy to understand, thank you.
i like how this guy explains stuff. straight forward no bullshit and correct
Oh, boy 500 subs! Today is 1.3M. Greeting from 2019, 9 years later.
Simple , direct with optional ideas of what could be. Thanks it removed all them complicated or not enough info. Thanks again Jim
If all car mechanics would be half as useful/clear/polite as Eric is here, the world would become better place
Check your firing order, either via a manual or just Google image search the make, model & year of the car, plus the phrase "firing order." When you get a result, make sure the image specifies which direction the engine is facing in the diagram, as in whether the cylinders are being counted from the front of the car or the back.
Thanks dude. Your video helped me 11 years later.
Great video! Im doing some last minute revision before my engines test at school.
sparkplugs are so under rated these days, people relay too much on car diagnostics, when sparkplugs can basically tell 80% of the story:) nice video im glad i "found you";)
Nice here in 2021 and you're at 1.57M subs congrats and thank you this is timeless information
This was the point Eric the car guy realized he had 500 subs.
He left his old job, started a new family, moved to a different continent or a planet altogether. Then realized they do not have cars over there, however his expertise came in handy in fixing moon buggies.
about to inspect a boat tomorrow, thanks for the insight!
Hey. Can I do this test. Compression test. One cylinder at a time. Remove one plug at a time replace back in after test & so on?
It's much better to remove them all when testing. It puts less stress on your starter since it is only compressing air in the cylinder with the tester and the engine cannot accidentally start up if it doesn't have any spark plugs in it.
What do you check next if you have good compression, spark and fuel on all cylinders, but there is one cylinder that does not fire no matter what. No check engine light either,
Watching this in 2020 and Eric has gone from 500 subscribers to 1.44 million since he posted this.
Great video. I think it's worth noting that the engine should be warmed up before performing the test.
gotta feel good to look and see the 662,000 subscriber mark coming up. 500 was a proud moment now look, on your way to the gold play button, good job bud.I like all the videos
Didn't get a response on the forum, so I thought I'd post here too. Apart from the larger pressure that was ultimately achieved in the wet test what I also noticed was that the needle's jumps along the way to 160 were different too. And that got me thinking: are the numbers that are attained at these intermediate "stopping points" of the needle while the pressure builds to its ultimate value important? My thinking is that yes, they are. That is, how close the first pressure value is to the last/ultimate pressure value has meaning. So in other words, it isn't just the final pressure, it is how the cylinder gets there that has importance. I mean, if a cylinder has a low first pressure but builds to an acceptable final pressure that's one thing. But if that cylinder has a higher first pressure before building to an also-acceptable final pressure then that paints a different picture.
So the question is: is this correct? And if so, how can you put a metric to gauge "how good" a cylinder is based on this data-progression or building of pressure during the test of a single cylinder? Maybe like first number is 50% of the final is ok? 30%?
Wish u were local to me so you'll b my go to guy for all my service needs...I enjoy watching all your videos
this is one of the most educational videos ive ever seen
Thank you. Obviously I haven't seen all your videos, but I can't recall hearing you swearing/cussing and I appreciate that.
Very nice breakdown Eric. Learned a lot from it and will apply the same steps in my shop. You earned another subscriber.
Man thank you so much for that info about the pistons being offset and for explaining you how to always know where cylinder 1 is on a V shaped engine. I never knew about that one! Now I just have to figure out how to always know which is bank 1 vs bank 2. It seems like each manufacturer is different with that
you are a legend man. I've learned every thing about cars from you. Everything you say is actually correct and accurate unlike most youtube channels lmao
On Hondas and Acuras of this genre (B, D, H, F, series etc) all you need to do to shut off fuel and spark is pull the ECU fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. This fuse is labeled "Backup / Radio" Its easier than unplugging things in my opinion...
Engine should be warmed up prior to doing the test.
The throttle plate should be fully openend during cranking to allow air to flow freely into the cylinder.
just a couple of things I would like to mention, with a lot of non starters I had it was down to excessive fuel in the bores, due to excesvive cranking etc with low battery, that done 2 things, it soaked the plug in fuel so it wouldn't fire, and the Petrol/gas got into the bores and washed all the oil off the cylinders and lost the compression, I cleaned the plugs and put some oil down the bores which gave it a bit of compression and it started......Fred
A little bit of oil in the fuel constantly will help keep the cylinders and rings from wearing,not too much oil ,maybe about 1/ 4 ounce per gallon..Marvel oil is great and no worries about catalytic converts burning up..It is a great way way to break in a new engine also..
@chamblizi I would fix the oil leak first and check the oil pressure with an analog gauge to see what pressure you really have, if the engine has noise AND low oil pressure it may be time for a rebuild or replacement.
i learn so much watch all ur vids.. yes all. im addicted to engines and mechanical devices.. thanx for all the info bud.