when I first watched this video almost 12yrs ago, Eric had a couple hundred subs and now he's at 1.6mil subs.. well deserved! Thanks for all you do Eric and the detailed information you provide in all your videos, I'm currently watching it as a refresher.
I liked Eric's old original honest style in his vids I'd say it's why he's done so well. I remember one Christmas When I discovered Eric's vids I watched the entire back-log ,Now it's all about about product placement and cheap tools .this vid was made when he was a real working mech or had that feel of hand to mouth. How ever the fixing it forward vids are a step in the right direction
One thing that is also kinda important is you need your throttle at Full Open to get an accurate compression reading. This at least applies on my B Series Honda engine. 1) Engine should be warm for an accurate reading (I understand that the piston rings expand with heat?) 2) Full Open Throttle 3) It is also best is all spark plugs are removed before starting An additional note is that you can buy a remote starter switch to make the process way easier and allows you to watch the gauge closer.
@jdmsrv93 I take them all out, makes for more accurate readings in my opinion, that way the other cylinders are not trying to compress while your doing the test.
@Yobidefy Actually this test was done on a working engine and the readings on an engine of this kind of mileage is actually pretty typical in my experience.
Good video i might ad that if you have a gauge that has a air hose hookup you can use it to pressurize the cylinder and check for coolant leaks like a cracked head or bad head gasket by looking for bubbles in the radiator by taking off the cap.
Hi Eric. I have a 1973 Ford F100 that is burning a little oil. I have had the valve seals replaced and the burning is still there. I have bought a compression tester and with the help of this video will do the test myself. I do not have an air compressor so I can't do a leak down. Thank you for posting this video and also doing it in an understandable and clear manner for the average person without the foul language that is featured in so many of these videos. Regards, Donald.
Literally the best auto technician on UA-cam. Also, a damn good teacher. Having amazing knowledge of a subject is one thing but being able to spread that knowledge is something even better.
@@RedEyedJedi right, in his videos! Scotty has 50+ years experience working on internal combustion engines. If you can contact him, you will see that Scotty is just better and has probably seen every type of problem with an engine. Eric struggles to diagnose some of his problems with engines. Get in touch with Scotty via email and you will see that he is just more knowledgeable. Period.
@@RedEyedJedi also, does Eric ever author a book? Has Eric ever received an Emmy award for an automotive television show? Does he have an education including a Master’s degree? Get the fuck outta here or shut the fuck up.
“Best auto technician”. Lol he’s a tech! Not an ASE Certified Master Mechanic. Scotty holds many different credentials and is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic.
it's a good idea to precisely measure the equal amount of oil for each cylinder for a wet test. This way you won't have to worry about putting more or less oil and gettng wrong readings thus possibly making a really bad decision about the engine.
if you have low compression.... your pulling the engine so it doesnt matter... a wet compression test is to figure out if its rings or valves.. really doesnt matter how much atf you dump in the cylinders
Great job on the compression test lesson. Keeping it within common sense and not to technical. Thank you very much. Look forward to seeing more teaching videos. My subject vehicle is a 97 Nissan D21 Hardbody Pickup.
Dont forget to have the throttle WIDE OPEN when performing a compression test to allow maximum air intake. If you have an electronic throttle, place key on engine off and block open the throttle pedal all the way to the floor before cranking. Also, perform a COLD engine compression test and a WARM compression test. Some engines misbehave only when cold or only when at operating temp. Dont bother with the wet compression test unless you have a large variation from specifications.
Some people would say yes, their argument being that a cold engine has better compression because the elements inside are cold and not expanded. So they recommend warming up the engine to get the metals to expand before checking compression to get a more "true" reading. I've never done a compression test so I can't give my opinion, but the logic seems reasonable.
Vincent Gutierrez I did mine warm and they all came out at 14.5 - 15 bar, this is in a 1996 Audi, I'll have to do one cold some day and a 'wet' test to see the difference.
Eric, I recently had my Dodge Durango, '06, 3.7 eng. Fuel pump and tank replaced as per the diagnosis of the Chrysler dealership. The so called failed fuel pump was only recently replaced last fall of 2014. Then after that, I left the dealership $1800 lighter in my wallet, only to see all my lights flashing on and off and all the bells associated with them, but the Vehicle running well. I finally got it home without incident and it still ran for a few days (still with the lights and bells active) until one morning, she just wouldn't turn over. So I had a local garage guy diag it and it indicated a PCM failure. $250 bucks later, it was replaced with the Codes supposedly already in place. But, you guessed it! Still, not turning over. The local garage did not have the proper machine to input the needed codes, so back to the local Dodge dealership which they claimed to have input the codes. But without success, then replaced all plugs, still no success..Then after all that they finally tell me my compressions are bad. I DONT BELEIVE THEM. If my compressions were bad, I don't think my engine would be running as smooth as it did, then all of a sudden die out! But I could be wrong, it does have alot of miles..I know you can't dianose on a blog. But now, she doesn't even turn or start, just makes this crazy electrical static noise when I try to turn it over. I still say it's either a bad code input or bad PCM!
Wow years ago Eric was answering the comments a lot but just like everybody else he tends to ignore most of the comments or questions since he has over a million subs!!!
Great video, Thanks. I just purchased a 1960 Chevy Impala with a 348ci. I'm having major issues with 4 cylinders oiling up and fouling plugs. I replaced the points and went with a hotter coil and Petronix I ignition. No change. The old coil was 55 years old! There's three cylinders next to each other on the drivers side and one on the passenger that are doing this. I'm thinking on the compression test next and removing the heads to check out the gaskets.
Best video ever. You are an excellent, logical teacher, Eric, and videography is some of the best. UA-cam = crystallized knowledge. My father, a mechanical assembler/mechanic asks me how I know this stuff. I tell him, "I am the Smart son..." Thanks again!
gotta feel good to look and see the 662,000 subscriber mark coming up. 500 was a proud moment now look, on your way to the gold play button, good job bud.I like all the videos
Hi, the wet reading on one of the cylinders is lower than dry reading..what could be the inference..? I have done dry & wet compression test on my VW Polo 1.2 TDI..the reading is lower in the wet test than the dry test on cylinder number 3..? Dry: 1 - 26.7 (Bar) 2 - 26.5 3 - 27.8 Wet: 1 - 27.6 2 - 26.7 3 - 26.3
Hey thanks for the educational video my friend. Relevant to me right now because I'm having a new head put on my MINI Cooper S. Two very toasted valves, and my plugs looked even worse than what you had right there. Excited to be back on the road soon, with more knowledge thanks to you!
When I do a compression test I always hook up a battery charger. All that cranking will drain down the battery and make the starter turn slower. Great video! Thanks.
frednich9603 The way we do it at school is by pulling the fuse or relay, whichever is easiest, for the fuel pump and pulling the plugs one at a time. However, since you need to pull all of them anyway to do a full test, I would go ahead and pull all of them at once and have it done unless you are concerned with confusing the firing order when you reinstall the spark plugs. I'm not a professional, but I've had several years of instruction and a small touch of experience. I'm not ETCG good, but I know some things lol. Hopefully this helps answer your question, and good luck
A couple points if anyone has a 2003-2008 350Z and possibly other cars- You should generally do it with a warm engine otherwise your readings will more than likely be low. Get some gloves, because the spark plugs will be hot. Then pull fuse #81, fuel pump fuse. Let engine idle until it dies then try to start again until your sure there's no fuel pressure left. Remove all coil pack and spark plugs. Disconnect coil pack connectors.(this will disable your ignition system). Cover the spark plug holes with clean rags so no dirt or debris gets in them. Put gauge in cylinders to be tested. Turn over engine about 5 seconds each. If there are any cylinder pressures that are low, squirt a little engine oil in the cylinder, if pressure is higher after oil is squirted in, this would indicate worn rings. You also have to be W.O.T. otherwise you will end with 15 lbs lower than the correct cylinder compression. If a cylinder is reading low pressure and the squirting oil trick doesn't raise the pressure, then you're looking at a valve problem. According to the FSM the reading should be 185PSI, minimum of 142PSI. There should be no more than 14 PSI difference between the highest and lowest cylinder. They also mention that if two or more cylinders are low and the oil squirt thing doesn't work then you could have a head gasket problem.
mann!! seriously, i want to met you in person man!, you have helped me so much... ( btw: im going for automotive technology ) and even though i know what are you talking about, you helped me to get into the details more easily.. Thanks man!
Hi ericthecarguy i ask you do i need hold wide open the throttle because i saw another video that this guy put the pliers to hold the throtle is neccesary??
Eric "the car guy", low compression leak down test appears to be in exhaust valves, (suspect timing chain is off ( if We were to take the roller fowlers out, (makes the valves seat) then run a compression test, would this not tell us if its heads, or timing? 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Check your firing order, either via a manual or just Google image search the make, model & year of the car, plus the phrase "firing order." When you get a result, make sure the image specifies which direction the engine is facing in the diagram, as in whether the cylinders are being counted from the front of the car or the back.
Well my Acura TL 2002 model compression test is at 210 dry (didn't do it wet or should I have?) from cylinder 1 to Cylinder 6 I'm surely happy about that . Thanks Eric
You're the man Eric. Thanks for your help, ive been watching your videos for years, and i appreciate how concise and informative your videos are, always containing your signature amount of dry humor. hahaha
@chamblizi I would fix the oil leak first and check the oil pressure with an analog gauge to see what pressure you really have, if the engine has noise AND low oil pressure it may be time for a rebuild or replacement.
Great video Eric. Newbie to motors here. I'm pondering purchasing a 1963 Graymarine 327c.i. 188hp V8 for a boat. It is the correct motor to make it original. The motor is not near me to visualize. Was thinking about asking the owner to complete a compression test. What else should I ask for?
Hi, i have a question. Ok, if a car comes for repair with... some problem that requires cmpression check then the test will tell the condition of the cylinders in relation to each-other and if there's deviation... ok, actions are taken. BUT! You need new engine. You go to the scrapyard where cars may be sitting for a while, oil has dripped down in the pan, etc... And you go to a relatively 'new' to the scrapyard car (not the oldest one which has rusty cylinders from sitting already...ofc). And you can put a battery. And you remove the plugs to do a compression test. So here's the question - what should be the acceptable numbers for this compression test? Because - cold or not, hot or not - the engine must have certain compression to be healthy. What is that range lets say for 2L 4cyl 10to1 static compression engine. @EricTheCarGuy
Hi Eric, I recently purchased a 2013 vw jetta 1.4L Turbo Sedan from an auction here in Western Australia. It had a PO3O4 Code come up on my diagnostic tool. This indicated that Cyl 4 had a miss fire. I changed all the plugs and Coils. Still the slight miss was there. The car drives ok when driving round the streets here, but is rough on idle. I completed a compression test and the results are as follows.. Cyl 1 110 Cyl 2 110 Cyl 3 110 Cyl 4 83 There is no smoke from the car exhaust. It has only travelled 114,000 Klms and is in good condition. Question: If No. 4 fuel injector was open, or faulty, would this effect the Compression Test.? I find it hard to believe that the valves or piston would be suspect on such a low mileage vehicle. I also checked for air leaks and blew out the air filter. I also checked the Air Intake manifold and found a small amount of engine oil inside.? Not sure why it was there. Anyway i was going to purchase and fit a new Injector to No. 4 Cyl. Do you think it is worth doing given the results of the compression test? If you can help with any of the above i would be very greatful. Kind Regards
Why would the even side of my V6 engine I. E. 2,4,6 wear out spark plugs far worse than the odd side 1,3,5 and have misfires on cylinder 2 before and after replacing all plugs? Very loud exhaust noise at 2k rpm quieter above or below. I haven't tested compression yet. It's a 2006 impala 3.9L with 173k miles if that gives you any clues. Only code it shows is misfire on cylinder 2. Thanks for your helpful videos
Wow I like the way you explained it! I recently had a compression test done on my 2000 Camry with 398 K miles. My mechanic told me that the compression rate was almost perfect and predicted at least another 100k. I didn't know what the hell he was talking about so I just nodded my head in agreement. LOL
Thank you, Eric..... I have seen your videos before, however some of the first ones we're too long for me.... So I didn't subscribed, but now I have. Just wanted to say thank you.
On Hondas and Acuras of this genre (B, D, H, F, series etc) all you need to do to shut off fuel and spark is pull the ECU fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. This fuse is labeled "Backup / Radio" Its easier than unplugging things in my opinion... Engine should be warmed up prior to doing the test. The throttle plate should be fully openend during cranking to allow air to flow freely into the cylinder.
Real quick buddy , dry 100 wet 110 across . 5.9 dodge 225k miles is that too bad ? Trying to find cause of smoke on first acceleration. Just pulled plenum and intake for nothing. No visible failure in gasket
I have a question? Do you remove all the spark plugs at once to do the compression test? Or do you leave them and remove 1 followed by compression test than install back spark plug and follow up with the next cylinders?
Eric, I have watched and re-watched your compression test video. It was great, but it leaves me with 2 questions. 1. I want to do the test on a 1929 Graham-Paige 615. This is a 6 cylinder automobile with the spark plugs running along the top of the engine. My problem is that the plugs have a 22mm circumference and I have been unable (in 3 days of looking) to find a compression tester with that large of a fitting to screw into the plug holes. I am hoping that you might be able to tell me where I might find a test kit, or a gauge, of that size. (In the alternative, may I use the rubber-headed insert that comes with some of the test kits and, if so, how do I do that?) 2. Why do you perform a "dry" and a "wet" test? Thank you for your attention. Steve Lewis
@vatan1923 No but some have glow plugs that you can remove and do the test in the same way, with others you might be able to remove the injectors to insert the tool to do the test with the correct adapters.
I have a 7afe engine and from what I read the standard compression reading is 191 and the minimum is 142. But when I did a compression test, it was around 235 for all cylinders. Should I be worried?
sparkplugs are so under rated these days, people relay too much on car diagnostics, when sparkplugs can basically tell 80% of the story:) nice video im glad i "found you";)
i have 2010 Aveo engine type LXV the BOOK says that i need to remove crank sensor. The problem is you have remove starter to get to it. do you see way get around this? MEANING NOT DISCONNECT SENSOR THANK YOU
Helpful even after such a long time. My car is hesitant when accelerating. It even goes on to switching it self off when approaching a stop.i did these test and number one was very low compared to the other cylinders. This cylinder head, I just bought from salvage yard. What else should I look into?
Hi Eric, I hope I get lucky this time with a response from you. I have a '95 maxima. I did a cyl. head job. The cam followers got shuffled, and I put them back randomly. I was getting 125psi on all cyl.'s. I disengaged the camshafts and cyl. 2 tested at 165 psi after several attempts( why did it take more attempts to get to 165psi than in your video?) , so I rearranged the cam followers now I'm getting 125-150psi.
@TeeWeeQcKsteel Compression testing is just a start, if you really want to know where the leak is a leak down is the way to go. I believe I referred to that in the video and I believe I've posted a link in the description to it. Thanks for the comment.
What do you check next if you have good compression, spark and fuel on all cylinders, but there is one cylinder that does not fire no matter what. No check engine light either,
Is it normal for the compression to bleed out after you stop cranking. I cranked my v8 and it went to 150 psi, then once I was done cranking it went down to 0 in about 15 seconds. It’s an old engine. Trying to get it to start up. I got fuel, air, and spark. So far all my cylinders are around 150psi. Ig it’s timing 😔
Thank you for the video. I have a stupid question here. I am looking at doing a engine compression test for 1996 Jeep Cherokee. I had drained the oil and taken out the radiator and serpentine belt (in thinking it was head gasket but now it might be rear main seal oil leak) So I would like to do a compression check. I was going to put some oil in maybe 3-4 liters). Can I get away with 3-4 liters of oil (6 liters normally) if I'm turning the engine with the starter 5 count/ times each cylinder as you show (5x6 cylinders)x2(dry and wet)=60 times of cranking with starter.
Looks like normal wear on piston rings one and two, and heavily worn rings on pistons three and four. The white haze you refer to usually indicates a lean condition (too little fuel in the mixture or too much air/vacuum leak).
2002 Mercedes C32 question at first start up I get a p0303 mostly after secondary airpump turns off now that it's cold..warmer weather it's accompanied by p0300 but I think the p0303 is naturally causing the p0300 multiple cylinder misfire...I replaced all plugs and swapped 3 time the coil pack between 1-3 and 6 with spark wires also. I changed fuel filter incase regulator bad...when car acts up misfire I turn off then on and car fine and no codes reappear. Driving car I don't feel any power loss even at WOT...do you think it might be compression? cats on cylinder 3 side? maybe faulty fuel injector?
![How To Perform a Compression Test - [EASY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3VmmL0YAO14/mqdefault.jpg)
when I first watched this video almost 12yrs ago, Eric had a couple hundred subs and now he's at 1.6mil subs.. well deserved! Thanks for all you do Eric and the detailed information you provide in all your videos, I'm currently watching it as a refresher.
I love this
"Today I hit 500 subscribers."
Today he has 1.5 million!
500 subscribers then, 500,000 now. We all appreciate you Eric!
Edit: 1.5M now
joeman543 and now 614k daym
+ROB ANDRETTI 676,238 and growing strong ...
+Adil Zaman 689,163
+josh mcbride 706,914.....
+joeman543 721,052 now :D
Lol im watching it now 2019 and he’s got 1.3M subscribers
1.4M
And me in 2020
1.8
@@lshooku well me mustve lost 400k
Right. Still helpful as hell though. 🤙
I liked Eric's old original honest style in his vids I'd say it's why he's done so well. I remember one Christmas When I discovered Eric's vids I watched the entire back-log ,Now it's all about about product placement and cheap tools .this vid was made when he was a real working mech or had that feel of hand to mouth. How ever the fixing it forward vids are a step in the right direction
All the power-mech students in our school are using your videos to learn online, good job mate!
It's crazy how I come back to use these old videos when he had 500 subs great guy
One thing that is also kinda important is you need your throttle at Full Open to get an accurate compression reading. This at least applies on my B Series Honda engine.
1) Engine should be warm for an accurate reading (I understand that the piston rings expand with heat?)
2) Full Open Throttle
3) It is also best is all spark plugs are removed before starting
An additional note is that you can buy a remote starter switch to make the process way easier and allows you to watch the gauge closer.
@jdmsrv93 I take them all out, makes for more accurate readings in my opinion, that way the other cylinders are not trying to compress while your doing the test.
oh Eric, youve been helping me for 14 years. look how far youve come from 500 subscribers to 1.81million. Good on ya bud
@Yobidefy Actually this test was done on a working engine and the readings on an engine of this kind of mileage is actually pretty typical in my experience.
Actually my friend you’ve got something that money can’t buy you’ve got a very nice pleasant voice to listen to ! Jim .
Good video i might ad that if you have a gauge that has a air hose hookup you can use it to pressurize the cylinder and check for coolant leaks like a cracked head or bad head gasket by looking for bubbles in the radiator by taking off the cap.
This was fun to come back to - you talked about having 500 subs at the beginning, and now you're approaching 2 mil. Thanks for all the help Eric!
Thank you for saying “why” to do things. Soooo helpful.
Now your at 1.1 million and i'm one of them. Thank you Eric for what you do, it has been invaluable to many of us diy'ers.
LOL 500, now you have 1.3 mil! Keep up the great work Eric. Keep en coming. I learn something new every time.
Hi Eric. I have a 1973 Ford F100 that is burning a little oil. I have had the valve seals replaced and the burning is still there. I have bought a compression tester and with the help of this video will do the test myself. I do not have an air compressor so I can't do a leak down. Thank you for posting this video and also doing it in an understandable and clear manner for the average person without the foul language that is featured in so many of these videos. Regards, Donald.
@miniwee3 Yes you need to be at WOT when doing the test.
A million. We're still watching Eric. All the way across the Atlantic in England. Keep it up mate.
@meganerchia Good eye, it was ATF. I just had an abundance of it so I put it in my oil can. ATF is oil with some additives and dye added.
Should you use a specific ATF for the wet test?
Literally the best auto technician on UA-cam. Also, a damn good teacher. Having amazing knowledge of a subject is one thing but being able to spread that knowledge is something even better.
Scotty Kilmer.
@@WickedG5150 Scotty is also good but he's not as good as Eric if you actually watch his videos and the level of detail he goes into.
@@RedEyedJedi right, in his videos! Scotty has 50+ years experience working on internal combustion engines. If you can contact him, you will see that Scotty is just better and has probably seen every type of problem with an engine. Eric struggles to diagnose some of his problems with engines. Get in touch with Scotty via email and you will see that he is just more knowledgeable. Period.
@@RedEyedJedi also, does Eric ever author a book? Has Eric ever received an Emmy award for an automotive television show? Does he have an education including a Master’s degree?
Get the fuck outta here or shut the fuck up.
“Best auto technician”. Lol he’s a tech! Not an ASE Certified Master Mechanic. Scotty holds many different credentials and is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic.
it's a good idea to precisely measure the equal amount of oil for each cylinder for a wet test. This way you won't have to worry about putting more or less oil and gettng wrong readings thus possibly making a really bad decision about the engine.
if you have low compression.... your pulling the engine so it doesnt matter... a wet compression test is to figure out if its rings or valves.. really doesnt matter how much atf you dump in the cylinders
@@Turboboob regular oil or thick stuff for the wet test?
@@mtrott101 5w30/10w30/atf, doesn’t matter. I’ve used it all with the same result.
@@mtrott101 wouldn't you use tge same oil your car takes?
Congratulations Eric - you really have contributed to assisting me over the last few years to do work on all of my cars and my family's cars.
500 subs. Now you have over one million
12,000,000 right about now!
1.52m subs now and back then you was happy from 500. Eric i love you bro, seriously.
You are a brilliant teacher! Keep up the good work
From 500 to 1.7 million subs in 10 years. Love and appreciate your channel sir.
lol 500 subscribers LOL. Watching this now and he has 778k.
839k
1,100,874 views
where
Mike Gillett 985k now lmao
1 mil niggas
One of the best info videos I've ever seen. To the point, and showed the diagnostics on how to perform them. Thanks bud.
dang 500 subscribers. Now you have over 650K.
+Glycerin 740k now
+BigDirtyBasterd 978k
+Mystickneon 759k now
+Peter Cas 782,976 now
23k subs in 1 months wow, thats arround 700 subs per day
~ 795 k :)
500 a little over 3 years ago. now he's at around 150,000. congratulations man!
Great job on the compression test lesson. Keeping it within common sense and not to technical. Thank you very much. Look forward to seeing more teaching videos. My subject vehicle is a 97 Nissan D21 Hardbody Pickup.
Dont forget to have the throttle WIDE OPEN when performing a compression test to allow maximum air intake. If you have an electronic throttle, place key on engine off and block open the throttle pedal all the way to the floor before cranking. Also, perform a COLD engine compression test and a WARM compression test. Some engines misbehave only when cold or only when at operating temp. Dont bother with the wet compression test unless you have a large variation from specifications.
Shouldn't the engine be to operational temperature?
No mate.
bazthehandyman
Oh right, cool (excuse the pun), save on petrol. Cheers.
Some people would say yes, their argument being that a cold engine has better compression because the elements inside are cold and not expanded. So they recommend warming up the engine to get the metals to expand before checking compression to get a more "true" reading. I've never done a compression test so I can't give my opinion, but the logic seems reasonable.
Vincent Gutierrez I did mine warm and they all came out at 14.5 - 15 bar, this is in a 1996 Audi, I'll have to do one cold some day and a 'wet' test to see the difference.
That'd be great! I'm always down for some good science and crunching numbers to clear up car myths haha
Can't fault this video, you seem to have covered everything. Just wish every mechanic was up to your standard. Many thanks.
I wish you could work on my Honda
He makes these videos so you can work on your own honda
Eric, I recently had my Dodge Durango, '06, 3.7 eng. Fuel pump and tank replaced as per the diagnosis of the Chrysler dealership. The so called failed fuel pump was only recently replaced last fall of 2014. Then after that, I left the dealership $1800 lighter in my wallet, only to see all my lights flashing on and off and all the bells associated with them, but the Vehicle running well. I finally got it home without incident and it still ran for a few days (still with the lights and bells active) until one morning, she just wouldn't turn over. So I had a local garage guy diag it and it indicated a PCM failure. $250 bucks later, it was replaced with the Codes supposedly already in place. But, you guessed it! Still, not turning over. The local garage did not have the proper machine to input the needed codes, so back to the local Dodge dealership which they claimed to have input the codes. But without success, then replaced all plugs, still no success..Then after all that they finally tell me my compressions are bad. I DONT BELEIVE THEM. If my compressions were bad, I don't think my engine would be running as smooth as it did, then all of a sudden die out! But I could be wrong, it does have alot of miles..I know you can't dianose on a blog. But now, she doesn't even turn or start, just makes this crazy electrical static noise when I try to turn it over. I still say it's either a bad code input or bad PCM!
Lol 500 subscriber mark. You're almost at 500,000 now!!
Just bought an RB20DET and started learning the mechanical ins and outs of a combustion engine. Thanks very much for these informative videos!
Great videos, love the detail on each one which is missing from a lot of similar mechanics!
Thanks :)
Wow years ago Eric was answering the comments a lot but just like everybody else he tends to ignore most of the comments or questions since he has over a million subs!!!
lol 500 subs, now i see 1.2M
Great video, Thanks. I just purchased a 1960 Chevy Impala with a 348ci. I'm having major issues with 4 cylinders oiling up and fouling plugs. I replaced the points and went with a hotter coil and Petronix I ignition. No change. The old coil was 55 years old! There's three cylinders next to each other on the drivers side and one on the passenger that are doing this. I'm thinking on the compression test next and removing the heads to check out the gaskets.
Engine compression test Perfectly described and totally understood! Thank you Eric, now can help me understand my freakin wife?
Just get a new one, not worth fixing it.
Best video ever. You are an excellent, logical teacher, Eric, and videography is some of the best. UA-cam = crystallized knowledge. My father, a mechanical assembler/mechanic asks me how I know this stuff. I tell him, "I am the Smart son..." Thanks again!
lol 500 subs eh? Think you're a little past that now.
this was in his old shop, from when he began his channel :) just a fyi
gotta feel good to look and see the 662,000 subscriber mark coming up. 500 was a proud moment now look, on your way to the gold play button, good job bud.I like all the videos
914,052 from 500 to almost a million, he made it.. lol
Hi, the wet reading on one of the cylinders is lower than dry reading..what could be the inference..?
I have done dry & wet compression test on my VW Polo 1.2 TDI..the reading is lower in the wet test than the dry test on cylinder number 3..?
Dry:
1 - 26.7 (Bar)
2 - 26.5
3 - 27.8
Wet:
1 - 27.6
2 - 26.7
3 - 26.3
How many of the people watching this are subaru guys? -_-
Dan_Vallush I'm a 4g63 guy..lol
Dan_Vallush I'm an rx7 guy
Celica life
Dan_Vallush zoom zoom
Subaru +1
From 500 subscribers to 1.35million on 9/2019. Rock on ETCG 🤘
Hey thanks for the educational video my friend. Relevant to me right now because I'm having a new head put on my MINI Cooper S. Two very toasted valves, and my plugs looked even worse than what you had right there. Excited to be back on the road soon, with more knowledge thanks to you!
When I do a compression test I always hook up a battery charger. All that cranking will drain down the battery and make the starter turn slower. Great video! Thanks.
frednich9603 The way we do it at school is by pulling the fuse or relay, whichever is easiest, for the fuel pump and pulling the plugs one at a time. However, since you need to pull all of them anyway to do a full test, I would go ahead and pull all of them at once and have it done unless you are concerned with confusing the firing order when you reinstall the spark plugs. I'm not a professional, but I've had several years of instruction and a small touch of experience. I'm not ETCG good, but I know some things lol. Hopefully this helps answer your question, and good luck
A couple points if anyone has a 2003-2008 350Z and possibly other cars- You should generally do it with a warm engine otherwise your readings will more than likely be low. Get some gloves, because the spark plugs will be hot. Then pull fuse #81, fuel pump fuse. Let engine idle until it dies then try to start again until your sure there's no fuel pressure left.
Remove all coil pack and spark plugs. Disconnect coil pack connectors.(this will disable your ignition system). Cover the spark plug holes with clean rags so no dirt or debris gets in them. Put gauge in cylinders to be tested. Turn over engine about 5 seconds each. If there are any cylinder pressures that are low, squirt a little engine oil in the cylinder, if pressure is higher after oil is squirted in, this would indicate worn rings. You also have to be W.O.T. otherwise you will end with 15 lbs lower than the correct cylinder compression. If a cylinder is reading low pressure and the squirting oil trick doesn't raise the pressure, then you're looking at a valve problem.
According to the FSM the reading should be 185PSI, minimum of 142PSI. There should be no more than 14 PSI difference between the highest and lowest cylinder. They also mention that if two or more cylinders are low and the oil squirt thing doesn't work then you could have a head gasket problem.
mann!! seriously, i want to met you in person man!, you have helped me so much... ( btw: im going for automotive technology ) and even though i know what are you talking about, you helped me to get into the details more easily..
Thanks man!
Hi ericthecarguy i ask you do i need hold wide open the throttle because i saw another video
that this guy put the pliers to hold the throtle is neccesary??
Eric "the car guy",
low compression
leak down test appears to be in exhaust valves,
(suspect timing chain is off (
if We were to take the roller fowlers out, (makes the valves seat)
then run a compression test, would this not tell us if its heads, or timing?
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Check your firing order, either via a manual or just Google image search the make, model & year of the car, plus the phrase "firing order." When you get a result, make sure the image specifies which direction the engine is facing in the diagram, as in whether the cylinders are being counted from the front of the car or the back.
Started the video with 500 subscribers. Now you have 1.65 million 👏🏽👏🏽
@spiritwolf391 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
Love the opening comment. Hit the 500 subscriber mark. Weeelll, you must be doin' something right. It's 1.66M now. Well done.
Well my Acura TL 2002 model compression test is at 210 dry (didn't do it wet or should I have?) from cylinder 1 to Cylinder 6 I'm surely happy about that . Thanks Eric
hes got 1.4 Million subs. He ain't answering no questions. Hes a RICH BOY!
You're the man Eric. Thanks for your help, ive been watching your videos for years, and i appreciate how concise and informative your videos are, always containing your signature amount of dry humor. hahaha
Going to do a compression test on my '71 MGBGT today for the first time. Thanks for the video.
Hi..Eric i just want to say your videos are a great help for a DIY man like me...thanks for all your help and the videos help me out alot..!!!!
500 Subscribers. Now you're almost to 500,000. I'm number 448,448. Thanks for all the great info. A real lifesaver & Hero to any DIY'er.
@chamblizi I would fix the oil leak first and check the oil pressure with an analog gauge to see what pressure you really have, if the engine has noise AND low oil pressure it may be time for a rebuild or replacement.
Hey Eric! In the future, say around 5/30/2015 you will have 612,720 subscribers and have lost some weight! Congratulations! You've taught me a lot
Great video Eric. Newbie to motors here. I'm pondering purchasing a 1963 Graymarine 327c.i. 188hp V8 for a boat. It is the correct motor to make it original. The motor is not near me to visualize. Was thinking about asking the owner to complete a compression test. What else should I ask for?
Hi, i have a question. Ok, if a car comes for repair with... some problem that requires cmpression check then the test will tell the condition of the cylinders in relation to each-other and if there's deviation... ok, actions are taken. BUT! You need new engine. You go to the scrapyard where cars may be sitting for a while, oil has dripped down in the pan, etc... And you go to a relatively 'new' to the scrapyard car (not the oldest one which has rusty cylinders from sitting already...ofc). And you can put a battery. And you remove the plugs to do a compression test. So here's the question - what should be the acceptable numbers for this compression test? Because - cold or not, hot or not - the engine must have certain compression to be healthy. What is that range lets say for 2L 4cyl 10to1 static compression engine. @EricTheCarGuy
Hi Eric,
I recently purchased a 2013 vw jetta 1.4L Turbo Sedan from an auction here in Western Australia.
It had a PO3O4 Code come up on my diagnostic tool.
This indicated that Cyl 4 had a miss fire.
I changed all the plugs and Coils.
Still the slight miss was there.
The car drives ok when driving round the streets here, but is rough on idle.
I completed a compression test and the results are as follows..
Cyl 1 110 Cyl 2 110 Cyl 3 110 Cyl 4 83
There is no smoke from the car exhaust.
It has only travelled 114,000 Klms and is in good condition.
Question:
If No. 4 fuel injector was open, or faulty, would this effect the Compression Test.?
I find it hard to believe that the valves or piston would be suspect on such a low mileage vehicle.
I also checked for air leaks and blew out the air filter.
I also checked the Air Intake manifold and found a small amount of engine oil inside.? Not sure why it was there.
Anyway
i was going to purchase and fit a new Injector to No. 4 Cyl. Do you
think it is worth doing given the results of the compression test?
If you can help with any of the above i would be very greatful.
Kind Regards
Great Video! I have a 2004 toyota Tacoma 2.7L with a P1072 will not go away, only have a Zurich R11 scanner has live data what to look for?
Why would the even side of my V6 engine I. E. 2,4,6 wear out spark plugs far worse than the odd side 1,3,5 and have misfires on cylinder 2 before and after replacing all plugs? Very loud exhaust noise at 2k rpm quieter above or below. I haven't tested compression yet. It's a 2006 impala 3.9L with 173k miles if that gives you any clues. Only code it shows is misfire on cylinder 2. Thanks for your helpful videos
You explain things very well. I'm grateful as this is very rare on youtube.
This is by far the best information that I have found, easy to understand, thank you.
Wow I like the way you explained it! I recently had a compression test done on my 2000 Camry with 398 K miles. My mechanic told me that the compression rate was almost perfect and predicted at least another 100k. I didn't know what the hell he was talking about so I just nodded my head in agreement. LOL
Thank you, Eric..... I have seen your videos before, however some of the first ones we're too long for me.... So I didn't subscribed, but now I have. Just wanted to say thank you.
On Hondas and Acuras of this genre (B, D, H, F, series etc) all you need to do to shut off fuel and spark is pull the ECU fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. This fuse is labeled "Backup / Radio" Its easier than unplugging things in my opinion...
Engine should be warmed up prior to doing the test.
The throttle plate should be fully openend during cranking to allow air to flow freely into the cylinder.
Real quick buddy , dry 100 wet 110 across . 5.9 dodge 225k miles is that too bad ? Trying to find cause of smoke on first acceleration. Just pulled plenum and intake for nothing. No visible failure in gasket
I have a question? Do you remove all the spark plugs at once to do the compression test? Or do you leave them and remove 1 followed by compression test than install back spark plug and follow up with the next cylinders?
Eric,
I have watched and re-watched your compression test video. It was great, but it leaves me with 2 questions.
1. I want to do the test on a 1929 Graham-Paige 615. This is a 6 cylinder automobile with the spark plugs running along the top of the engine. My problem is that the plugs have a 22mm circumference and I have been unable (in 3 days of looking) to find a compression tester with that large of a fitting to screw into the plug holes. I am hoping that you might be able to tell me where I might find a test kit, or a gauge, of that size. (In the alternative, may I use the rubber-headed insert that comes with some of the test kits and, if so, how do I do that?)
2. Why do you perform a "dry" and a "wet" test?
Thank you for your attention.
Steve Lewis
@vatan1923 No but some have glow plugs that you can remove and do the test in the same way, with others you might be able to remove the injectors to insert the tool to do the test with the correct adapters.
I have a 7afe engine and from what I read the standard compression reading is 191 and the minimum is 142. But when I did a compression test, it was around 235 for all cylinders. Should I be worried?
sparkplugs are so under rated these days, people relay too much on car diagnostics, when sparkplugs can basically tell 80% of the story:) nice video im glad i "found you";)
i have 2010 Aveo engine type LXV the BOOK says that i need to remove crank sensor. The problem is you have remove starter to get to it. do you see way get around this? MEANING NOT DISCONNECT SENSOR
THANK YOU
If all car mechanics would be half as useful/clear/polite as Eric is here, the world would become better place
Helpful even after such a long time. My car is hesitant when accelerating. It even goes on to switching it self off when approaching a stop.i did these test and number one was very low compared to the other cylinders.
This cylinder head, I just bought from salvage yard. What else should I look into?
This UA-cam channel has come a long way. 1.53M subscribers now.
Hi Eric, I hope I get lucky this time with a response from you.
I have a '95 maxima. I did a cyl. head job. The cam followers got shuffled, and I put them back randomly. I was getting 125psi on all cyl.'s. I disengaged the camshafts and cyl. 2 tested at 165 psi after several attempts( why did it take more attempts to get to 165psi than in your video?) , so I rearranged the cam followers now I'm getting 125-150psi.
@TeeWeeQcKsteel Compression testing is just a start, if you really want to know where the leak is a leak down is the way to go. I believe I referred to that in the video and I believe I've posted a link in the description to it. Thanks for the comment.
Simple , direct with optional ideas of what could be. Thanks it removed all them complicated or not enough info. Thanks again Jim
What do you check next if you have good compression, spark and fuel on all cylinders, but there is one cylinder that does not fire no matter what. No check engine light either,
Is it normal for the compression to bleed out after you stop cranking. I cranked my v8 and it went to 150 psi, then once I was done cranking it went down to 0 in about 15 seconds. It’s an old engine. Trying to get it to start up. I got fuel, air, and spark. So far all my cylinders are around 150psi. Ig it’s timing 😔
Thank you for the video. I have a stupid question here. I am looking at doing a engine compression test for 1996 Jeep Cherokee. I had drained the oil and taken out the radiator and serpentine belt (in thinking it was head gasket but now it might be rear main seal oil leak) So I would like to do a compression check. I was going to put some oil in maybe 3-4 liters). Can I get away with 3-4 liters of oil (6 liters normally) if I'm turning the engine with the starter 5 count/ times each cylinder as you show (5x6 cylinders)x2(dry and wet)=60 times of cranking with starter.
Thanks Eric , for your lesson on how to use a compressor tester in wet and dry and explain it on details and organized. I work the same way as you do.
Looks like normal wear on piston rings one and two, and heavily worn rings on pistons three and four.
The white haze you refer to usually indicates a lean condition (too little fuel in the mixture or too much air/vacuum leak).
2002 Mercedes C32 question at first start up I get a p0303 mostly after secondary airpump turns off now that it's cold..warmer weather it's accompanied by p0300 but I think the p0303 is naturally causing the p0300 multiple cylinder misfire...I replaced all plugs and swapped 3 time the coil pack between 1-3 and 6 with spark wires also. I changed fuel filter incase regulator bad...when car acts up misfire I turn off then on and car fine and no codes reappear. Driving car I don't feel any power loss even at WOT...do you think it might be compression? cats on cylinder 3 side? maybe faulty fuel injector?
Great help, Thank You. My Saab 2001 9.5 Aero reads 185-215-215-185. Bad or good?
Once again Thank You.