Climbing Fails "Helmets Don't Rock"
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- Опубліковано 19 бер 2021
- Hey friends here are some close call for you this week. Pretty narly stuff going on but im happy to see more people are putting on their helmets. Let me know down below if these videos have changed your mind about using one more often. Hope you got a few laughs from this one and if you like what I am about hit the sub so we can get this content out there. Thanks again!
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Bet you all didn’t know climbing fails has it’s own Rescue chopper now! 😂
After reviewing the second clip in slow motion I have noticed what’s going on. She moves her left hand up which creates an optical illusion that slack is being payed out when paired with the incoming slack from the falling climber.
What I would normally expect is quick hands pulling that slack in and a fast right hand jerking up then down trying to get all that slack in. Instead her stroke is very short when managing the amount of slack she is dealing with which threw me off. Over all she did a good job keeping him on belay.
I literally laughed out loud😂
Sick intro, and the metal got me super hyped up hahaha 🤘🏻
Looks jankey as F, I’d totally ride in that!
Good analysis on our video! You're right, Maria was preparing to take in the extra slack dropping down from my fall above the last piece. My last .3 blew because I stepped on it while in flight, and the first nut popped with the angle of the rope. She was actually belaying with an Black Diamond Pilot.
Let me know if you want the whole video, on what was happening on the top half of the climb.
@@BossManNave That would be cool to see a in depth analysis.
''In climbing, if someone calls you out on your setups or technique, and you have no argument for it. You really should listen''
this is a life saving statement
Haha glad our video is blowing up (I’m Gavin, the guy climbing on the last video). Wear a helmet y’all! This was our first time climbing trad together and right after this moment I got a helmet and now wear it every time!
Haha at least you are a good sport about it. 🤙🏻
@@BetaClimbers thanks man, appreciate the insight about the situation
Good job man.
Is he still annoying you with the helmet?
@@batasgamer8511 I won’t stop till every man woman and child is wearing one to bed!
Helmet saved my life ice climbing. 3kg chunk of ice hit me in the head while belaying and just bounced off. Definitely would have ended me.
lmao the production on the intro was golden. As a former skateboarder where helmets were not cool i ended up getting multiple concussions, then i became an avid longboarder where helmets are everything. i love helmets. I
Cool video. I called a guy out for a set up once. I was very diplomatic about it, he had a chain of Quickdraws round a tree. I noticed that all their gear was new so just gently got talking to them asking if they had climbed there before. (Fortunately they were still getting their harnesses on) the guy said no this was their first time outdoors, I explained the problem with the setup and gave them a couple of slings to use instead. Showed them how to set up safely, Initially he pointed.out that the quickdraws are all rated but once I explained how that worked he totally understood. They were great about the whole thing and climbed with us all day and hopefully learned a bit too. Never hurts to point out errors.
The world needs more people like you! Right on 🤙🏻
New to outdoor climbing, why is a chain of quickdraws around a tree a bad idea? From an intuitive stand point I would never use quickdraws like that but what is the real problem with it? Is it the carabiner on carabiner connection?
@@samkelson7990 firstly carabiners are not ment to be cross loaded. There strength is in a downward pull, not bent over a radius. Secondly they aren’t lockers so they can easily unclip from one another. Carabiners seem to find a way to unclip themselves in mysterious ways. Also it’s is not an effective use of gear, so it’s just plain sloppy.
@@BetaClimbers Okay thanks for the reply, that makes sense. Even in the downward direction is it bad to have a carabiner on carabiner connection?
@@samkelson7990 you may have one carabiner face in and out instead of right and left. So it then becomes easier for one to unclip if pressed against the rock. So In some cases it’s okay and in others it is not best to try and avoid it. 🤙🏻
Had to pause a 0:24 to let you know, this is the most badass intro to anything I've ever seen in my life.
🤣
OK. but what is that intro? Love it.
Some additional points about that sloppy toprope anchor:
* That top tree was f*** dead (perhaps it never wore a helmet...). It looks like its interior might be quite chewed up by bugs already. This is waiting for falling.
* The rope around that tree was put mid-trunk putting quite some additional lever on the already breaking trunk. If you REALLY NEED to use a dead tree as anchor point put the rope close to the bottom... (or better: go home again and wait for a day where you can come with a friend to lead-climb the route)
* The sling zig-zagged around two sharp-looking edges.
* The second anchor was connected mid-way with a quick draw. If you really need to use a karabiner use a screwgate (better two with opposing openings.)
* Both anchor slings bent unprotected around the (sharp?) corner. Throw your rope bag in between to prevent slings/rope rubbing directly on rock.
There are just SO MANY possible points of failure. This guy really asks for trouble...
This!☝🏻
I just figured out what that biner is to the left it’s a nut placement. So it looks like he backs that up with a dead tree lol 😂
@@BetaClimbers I thought he was using it to tie into so he could hang over the edge to finish the setup.
Looks like there is a third point; The quickdraw "half way" of on the "dead tree anchor point" looks as if it's connected to a nut which you can see the head of when the camera person is panning over to the second anchor point. It's quite interesting to see how they're doin some thing correct, like three anchor points, the angles seem descent but then the gear they're using. Baffled.
Lets be honest though, its a top rope anchor. It's never going to see much force. Two trees (maybe one dead? But honestly dunno how you can spot that with the 10 pixels at your disposal) and a nut. It's likely pretty bomber even if it looks a mess. The 'Want me to teach you how not to die' was an overreaction, and mega douchey.
Sweet vid dude
🤙🏻
The last clip actually made some people I know re-think their stance on wearing helmets.
They think they're a good idea now.
Love it. I climbed for years in the 80's and 90's, no helmet. By the grace of god, no head injury. Getting back into climbing just for fun, I definitely wear a helmet now - older, wiser, yada yada. As my brother said to me recently observing people at a local cliff, "It's nice that helmets are cool now."
I use to never ride my bike with a helmet until I got a road bike and starting going over 10 mph. Only takes one fall to knock some sense into you.
I love his immediate reaction: "and that's why we wear helmets" instead of "holy ******* ****".
I wish these videos were longer. Such good content
These just keep getting better and better.
Love the chopper.
I've had people drop carabiners and pro on me while I was just walking up to the base of a climb! If there are already people climbing at a popular wall, put your helmet on before you even walk up to it and start climbing/belaying.
Digging the background music. Continues to be UA-cam’s best underground climbing channel
I love how you reiterate using a helmet, you have really sunk that in for me dude. Keep going strong. 🤘💯
I was just about to send the gavin clip, its so good
I havent climbed in 2 years...your videos are giving me the itch again. This time though, helmet 24/7!
You can take it for for sleep
Something else with the long sling clip. They were attached to a dead tree! Take a fall on that and you could have a log coming over the cliff too.
Hell Yeah That Intro got me PUMPED AF
ROFL that intro tho. WHY ARE YOU RUNNING vibes
That TR anchor looked a lot like it was at Devils Lake. There's a few great mountain project threads on sketchy Devils Lake toprope anchors. You see them almost daily in the summer.
Hey fellow Wisco climber ✌️
Dude this was the funniest edit😂
Seeing videos like these I don't know if i ever want to go outdoors. I have only climbed indoors and i would love to try "real" rock climbing but it is scary...
Helmets on counts for skiing as well! I went skiing and fell on a jump. Ended up hitting my face with my knee and i'm extremely happy i had a helmet on. I would probably have been knocked out and jumped on if I didn't have that helmet.
Keep up the good work bro.
🤙🏻
Another fantastic video, as always.
My one disagreement is about yelling "Rock!" when you drop something. I've developed a cowering reflex when I hear that or hear rocks skipping down - I reflexively look down instead of up, try to crouch a little, put an arm around my head if I'm stupid enough not to be wearing a helmet, maybe move to cover if it's really close by. Getting the warning is helpful, I think. No disagreement on anything else in this video though. Thanks again!
Yeah I agree with your disagreement. Lol my point is it’s really situational. What size rock are we talking about a man killer or a ouchy bobo. And who am I climbing with some one I know won’t look up but dive out of the way? Some times it’s doesn’t matter because wind may carry your voice and “rock” might sound like. “Hey look at me”. So it’s best to have your belayer have a mind set of watch out below!
4:38, classic devils lake top rope setup, check out devils lake cluster f*** on mountain project if you ever want to see some bad top rope anchors
Seeing al these climbing fail videos made me never climb without a helmet again! Even when indoor lead climbing, if I place my foot wrong I wouldn't smack my bare head into the wall when falling
4:35 is at Devil's Lake Wisconsin. Some guys I climb with took that video and anchors like that are way to common at the lake.
Dude your intros are amazing
Who needs netflix when you have BetaClimbers
YES BRO love the intro!!!!!! 😂
I love helmets!
Any chance you could do a full beginner essentials series. Knots to know, gear you need, how to find bolted or top rope routes in your area, how to set up a top rope, etc?
Yeah I can do that! 🤙🏻
My heroes in the Gunks were John Bragg, John Stannard, Henry Barber, et. al. None of them wore helmets (and most only used a 2" swami). I followed their dictum for many years. Since climbing Yosemite walls and having kids, I always wear a helmet these days, even while top roping Ken's Crack... seriously.
At work we yell "Headache!" or if we think it's going to hit them if they move we yell "Stand!" or "Stand still!"
That’s a good policy to have. We had a new guy at work and when we yelled rock. Because a rock was falling he got up and ran towards the rock thinking we where just calling for him. The rock hit the roof and bounced twenty feet up in the air. This is why morning took box talks are important. And everyone knows the policies. Unfortunately rock climbers don’t use radios typically so a yell some times can mean anything if the wind is blowing. Some times takes a lot of yelling back and forth till you get the message across. Be safe out there 🤙🏻
That top rope anchor was one of the most terrifying things I've ever seen in my life. I can't understand the mindset that led to its creation.
@@georgestone8099 The "S" in SERENA stands for "simple". This is not at all simple.
I saw the second clip on instagram, and the belayer explained that they were actually taking out slack. I thought the same thing when I watched the video but for some reason the way falls adds a lot of slack in the system which makes it look like they're adding slack.Watch carefully and you can see them take as quick as they can.
Nice 😁
Yeehaw for helmets!
that carabiner at 7:02 looks like it was holding two ends of a sling together
YES
climbing with gri gri should be the only idea
Can you try a harness from Wish?
Thank you, man! 👍
🤙🏻
So, question... I am learning Trad. Been placing gear as close at I can, basically adding up to a heavy rack. How far run out can I place on normal size (.5-3)? Can I, with a solid placements, go 10 feet above or...?
You are entering the realm of opinions I think. Here is my opinion. It’s all depend because your best safety tool is your skill and climbing ability. Apparently if you are super skilled you can climb 2500 feet with out placing any gear. (Just ask Alex). Here is what I do if I’m going to go for a run out, I make sure that the pieces I place before the run out are bomber.
Some climbs ask more from you and are usually rated as such. G rated climbs will allow a lot of placements and R rated climbs you will Barely find any. So the a mount of gear you need to place some times assumes your own ability risk assessment.
Generally At the beginning of the climb is where you want your most gear, the rope is shorter which means less stretch and obviously you are closer to hit the ground. Things change when you add ledges ect. So I guess what I’m saying is there is no definite answer you just know when you know. And that why climbing with some one experienced is super important because they know more.
@@BetaClimbers I appreciate it, thank you.
Nice intro!
Ok, every time I see these top rope setups getting flack I try to think what I would have done.
I would probably have used the same crack with nut, and the same tree on the right and leave it at that. I would have used a static line instead of slings and a rope bag at the cliff edge to remove some abrasion.
I may have used the dead tree to have something to tie into while building the anchor. There is no way I am getting out there without some protection and sometimes you have to take what you can get.
The biggest problem I actually see with the anchor is not the daisy-chained slings, 7kN is plenty for a top rope and probably more than most trad placements anyway. But instead the sharp stones the slings are rubbing against. Spend a few hours working grinding those slings and they might fail.
that last kid would have been dead 100% without the helmet...gg
He always talks about sewing it up and just using a bunch of pieces, but cams are like $60 each. That stuff adds up. I usually place three nuts, and I repel to get the first one and back up over and over again, placing the last one first until I’m at the top 😂
#lead-rope-minimal-solo
Love it man! “I rock-climb”- the amount of stupidity that is found in climbing is daunting.
If you haven’t read The Freedom of the Hills, you probably shouldn’t be climbing. If you have to question wether or not to wear a helmet, you probably shouldn’t be climbing either.
I agree with your message about wearing a helmet, but a helmet doesn’t protect against stupidity. Be safe. If you don’t know how to do something before you do it, there is this thing called learning - not trial by error.
Looks like autumn at the red.
with the first clip, i think the problem was that he used metal placements. for sandstone thats a bad idea. in saxony in germany metal and chalk is forbidden. chalk attacks sandstoneand metal placements just breack the stone by hard impacts. we use only knots (monkey fist) and well layed slings. for bigger cracks also old shool hard rubber wedges. its a very dodgy style to climb in, at specialy that on sandstone you have very often the situation that you dont find good ankerpoints for several meter. sometimes you end up with 8 or ten meter with no placement. so you have to be very confident in your ankers.
If the cam or nut is deep enough or the placement is good it will work perfectly fine. I am quite sure that webbing knots must be pushed much deeper to work
As always, Brilliant video! the intro gave me a chuckle. At 6:15 - 6:30 it looks like the 'peculiar' quick draw is clipped to a nut and another girth hitched sling... ignorance is bliss... right?
Lol yeah it’s a nut placement backed up by a dead tree
bueno, como siempre, y muy impresionante
The belayer panicked. That's it I reckon.
clip at 3:26 starting. did the belayer get a finger caught? at the end he doesnt grab the rope with his free hand below the device, he grabs his hand and seems to be in pain?
6:44 there's a nut in the crack that the slings also run through that's attached with the biner
The one around 4:15 ... what kinda rope were they using? It looks like spider web?
The second fail could have been prevented by giving a soft catch on the TR whip. It would have drastically reduced the momentum of the swing. Most people just think to hard take on a TR fall, and sometimes it's critical to give a soft catch to reduce a huge swing. If there's a lot of rope out, giving a soft catch can actually mean lowering the climber as they fall.
out of curiosity, what did you mean by the, if she was using a grigri she could have took her hands off ? also i was always under the impression using a grigri for trad climbing isn't the best idea.
I always try and use a grigri, they cam and bite down on the rope. You shouldn’t ever let go of the break line but God forbid your belayer got knocked out some how (by falling rock maybe) a grigri would cam down and hold to rope for them. What the grigri doesn’t seem to do very well is proved a soft catch by allowing rope to slip this is again because it automatically bites down. Also you can’t rappel off a double line.
GriGri is fine for trad when using a single rope. If you're doing trad with twin ropes or half ropes then it's not going to work.
@@marinakyriacou6525 i thought it had a tendency to pull the gear out ?
@@dadbod4038 I think it depends a lot on the belayer and even the Grigri itself. For instance I've climbed with quite a few experienced trad climbers who swear by the OG Grigri for trad. Personally I don't use one trad but I've been belayed with one on both lead trad and seconding and both were fine but again, OG Grigri lol
Have you thought of doing abseiling fails or something similar
2:26 the bottom protection got ripped out so hard
That can happen if the belayer is belaying to far at an angle or somtimes it just mean the piece wasn’ ment for that direction of pull. Some time you climb down and clean the first few pieces to lessen drag and get equipment back ect.
@@BetaClimbers good to know. would that likely damage the piece?
*it getting ripped out
@@colerut7912 yeah depends the force applied to it. Could just be a nut pulled up instead of down. I wouldn’t question it still whip. Unless it was noticeably damaged. Prob all you would get is a bent wire.
... Gav? Where are you? Oh... Gav...
2:38 that belayer is taking in? make for a hard catch but presumably trying to avoid groundfall? Respect to Tim at 7:27, he is prepared for both rockfall and darkness with his headtorch :)
How did you afford the helicopter?
🤫
I liked this video before it even started cause of dudes intro
I wanna buy some merchandise but me and my roommates are waiting for a bomber shirt
I made one already then Removed it lol thought it wasn’t a good shirt to bring to an airport
#helmetgang
Any views on wearing a helmet for bouldering?
Are you Bouldering under a cliff? If not you shouldn’t be worried about rock fall and if you have spotters they should help you from hitting your head as well as your mats. Lol
You didn’t wear a helmet climbing out 😂😂
#mistopportunity
$25 dollars a sling?!? Who is ripping you off?
I don’t know why I watch these. I don’t even climb.
At 2:27 she's pulling in the slack not letting it out. Slack appeared in the system first and then she tried pulling it in as he fell. Looks like he he went to clip and then fell.
Looks like a bit of an optically illusion I don’t see her yanking in the slack her very short hand movement does look like it pulling in slack like you said I guess just don’t enough. Looks like a job for a hyper taker lol jk
@@BetaClimbers yeah the shadow from the rope makes it hard to see. If they don't start wearing helmets they might need to become hypertakers lol
How I see it: Belayer had PERFECT slack, just a slight bend in the rope. Climber realised he won't do the clip and let the rope go. The gear was put in a straight line so the rope completely dropped through and gave the belayer a TON of slack, which he tried to pull in, but then the climber already was on its way down. You have to watch the very first seconds of the clip, not the part you showed repeatedly.
Just one comment: 25 dollars for a sling? Is it made from unicorn hair? I've never paid that much
I've recently met and climbed with the guy that got hit in the head. 16 year old offwidth enthusiast 😂
Too many people are only going to know how to belay with a grigri, and we lose some of the craft.
Well we could prob say the same for the body belay I rarely see that one used.
@@BetaClimbers Different I think, bc when you become proficient belaying with an atc (or 8, etc) you learn/understand better what's happening, and how to deal with situations. I need to know my belayer understands that taking your hand off the brake line is not an option, whether it breaks your nose by swinging in to the rock, ,or wrecks your thumb holding the fall, the belayer is responsible for us not dying. The grigri is an upgrade, sooooo much better when you know WTF you're doing, and yet at the same time infinitely worse when you don't. Without experience, it can be an accident waiting to happen.
The body belay and ATC are basically identical, we've just changed what/where the energy is dissipated. The grigri is different. It's the brake. Am I learning dynamic belaying? I guess you could, I just think it's impoirtant to learn how to catch a fall. Then you can move on to the gear that makes it easier.
I'm just saying I much prefer a belay from someone who is comfortable using an ATC over someone who has only ever used a grigri. Unless it's toproped, in which case I will teach you how to use a grigri in 90 seconds, and then you can belay me.
@@ripapa6355 that’s a good argument, had a guy tell me they “outlaw’d” using a 8 where he is from ...That I didn’t get that.
@@BetaClimbers Dude, (I hope I can call you dude) this is why you're the best. Question, have you ever lead with a belayer who has only ever belayed with a grigri? Would you let someone belay you who told you they've only ever used a grigri?
@@ripapa6355 I don’t count I’m nuts lol I let noobies belay me all the time haha I can predict exactly what A noob is going to do or better yet not do lol. But no I wouldn’t let them belay me on somthing I need to count of them for with anything less than a grigri. Atc takes some skill I’m pretty sure a dog that’s heavy enough can belay me on a Grigri.
what was that "use a grigri and you can let go to protect your head" stuff? One does NEVER EVER* let go of the rope in the braking hand unless the climber is back on the ground again. (*terms and conditions apply that are too complex for novice climbers).
Where are the alphaclimbers!
Those anchors were sketch as f$#%!!! Its reasons such as that why Im a bit weary about swapping ropes/ routes with other people while while TR'ing. If i didnt see their anchors.... Ehhhhh. Yea.
Helmets
Wear a helmet, GAVIN
Clip number 2 look like example of extremely badly executed "dynamic belay", where you let bit more rope into system when catching fall if you have long distances between pieces/pieces are not quite solid or you want to mitigate pendulum/avoid ledge. But in this case execution is poor (you have to brake with control, not pull rope out of device) and you have to be really aware of height of fall.
Ahhh that’s must have been what it was. An attempt to dynamically belay. Yeah you need to catch first then allow slippage.
Exactly. She should've just jumped up a bit as he fell if she's trying for dynamic belay. Letting out more rope just makes it worse. Better to not do it all than to do it badly.
Putting extra slack in the system will only increase fall factor.
@@gimmepowder Yep, it does. But better to have slightly higher FF than crushed ankles on ledge. It's always highly situational and belayer must be aware of all hazards and respond accordingly. I could make profound argument when to use this technique but I'm too lazy to do so in my free time :)
@@Fatal1t Not sure how more slack is going to prevent hitting a ledge. Slack is by definition in the system prior to a fall. Jumping with the catch, timed right, or letting some rope slip through the belay device, to slow the deceleration, are not the same as preemptively putting extra slack in the system.
What’s with the dude chasing the rabbit? 4:58
Inside joke....I go down “rabbit holes” aka rants some times lol 😂
I see way too many people on pornhub without helmets
Why does climber 2 get away without a helmet comment?
I wear my helmet to bed...
I stopped pointing out shady stuff, I got tired of the shit I got when I do, so we just move on to another spot
Are you on Facebook
at 2:30 she wasn't paying out rack, the rope is falling since that dude was running out. Aren't you a experienced climber ?
What confused me was the rate of slack intake her take strokes are very small. It made a bit of an optical illusion for me viewing it the first time, I have slowed it down and you are correct. Others thought she was trying to create some kind of soft catch by incorrectly paying slack out so I’m not the only one that got tricked by that one. 😂
Please... For your sake and for all of us
using a gri gri does NOT mean you can "take your hands off to protect your face"
None of these assisted brake devices are designed for you to take your hand off the brake line. You can either find that in Petzl's user manual for the GriGri, or from talking to climbers who know what they're talking about
Hold on to your climber
Yes my point was if you did so happen to take your hand off by accident or as in the case to maybe protect your teeth from getting knocked out or pass out from a heart attack the grigri would hold. Not like in the case with an ATC would but yes always keep your hand on the break line.
That's the great thing about assisted brake devices. In case we accidentally let go of the rope, they add a layer of safety.
But at 2:57 in this video you make the classic scary comment of (paraphrasing to generalize) "The GriGri is great because you can let go of the rope to use your hands for other things".
@@ryanclancey5792 no I did not say you can take your hands off to do other things. I said she could have takin her hand off to protect her face. This is why having a grigri is a good idea.
ok, I'm sorry. I must be completely misunderstanding.
"I did not say you can take your hands off..."
"I said she could have takin her hand off..."
I'm sure I must be missing something here....
It's possible that you just phrased it in an odd way.
Maybe you meant:
"If she had accidentally taken her hands off the rope out of a gut instinct to protect her face, then a GriGri would add a high chance of auto-locking the rope and save her mistake."
whatever the case, I'm not trying to attack you directly for saying something I disagree with.
I'm speaking up because this is a very common belief about GriGris and other assisted braking devices, by people who don't carefully read the manufacturer's operation instructions.
I feel it's my responsibility as a climber to speak up anytime I hear something so commonly believed and generally dangerous.
with ANY belay device, we can achieve "hands-free" lockdown with just a quick knot. And there are a million different ways to do it.
Don't rely on friction in an open system for life support, close that system with a nice secure knot
i get that’s it’s short for carabiner, but you probably shouldn’t just be saying “beaner”
Is that your trigger word?
@@codyk.8104 nope, i’m just not a racist lmao
Discord was terrible
mine in particular or just Discord in general?
It's actually called the "helmet paradox" I think and there has been research done on the psychology of it. When kids learn to ride bikes without helmets they become more easily able to mitigate risks, whereas kids who wear helmets from the start just learn to land on there heads. So they actually take more risks.
Like most of my approaches in life, I tend to take the middle ground. I'm not a climber these days (fused spine and ankle, work related) but I still BASE jump and if I see meadow then I'll forego the helmet. If it's Moab and the LZ is sketch then I'm wearing a helmet.
With that said; I was doing some scrambling in limestone caves a couple of days ago and I can't see a reason not to wear helmets in anything to do around rocks.
I love helmets!