I have a pencil graveyard full of the ones you showed Ron and since last year have been using the pencil from Pica and will not go backwards. They are fantastic. The inbuilt sharpener keeps it fresh and sharp.
I use the Pica pencil every day... My work requires a sharp pencil all the time... The fact that you can sharpen the leads yourself makes it perfect for me... The Pica leads tend to be hold up better than any others I have tried...
Hey Ron, you should give the pica dry a look. I'm a cabinet maker and on jobsites use it all the time, kept losing pencils from behind my ear all the time. Nice thing with the pica is they have holsters that can clip into pant pockets. Also have diffrent colours and hardness of leads. If you get the H hardness, it holds a fine point for a while and it's also fine line. The other party trick is the lead is soluble with water which is huge when working with white kitchens.
@@MistAtsiM I agree, but the holster really sold me, not haveing to thumble around trying to re clip the pencil on my pants, just drop it into the holder with a little push. I'm a little things kinda guy haha. Also try the H hardness lead, I'm going onto 6 months with the same lead. Holds that sharp point for ever and its a very faint line as well.
my husband has used pentel pencils for many yrs. in architecture and uses them in his woodworking. he uses 9mm leads for everything, the trick to maintaining a true point is to rotate as using. he says nothing can beat a pentel. forget the small diameter leads, us 9mm and you have it made.
Try the Pica Dry and you will never look back. I love 0.5mm, 0.7mm and 2mm pencils for drawings but switched completely to Pica Dry / Lyra Dry pencils for everything else.
Try: Staedtler Mars Technico 780C Leadholder. The push button is also a sharpener. You can use all the range of 7B to 7H as well as the usual HB. My fav for woodwork is 2B. You can also find different colours of leed, even white ones for dark woods. I use it as a first fix as well as second fix. I had one for over 5 years and replace it for exactly the same. Good luck!
I’ve had the same experience and have found that the lead in cheaper mechanical pencils are constantly breaking off. The nicer mechanical pencils click more precisely and doesn’t “click” out as much lead, which seems to support the lead better and prevents them from breaking off constantly as I pull them in and out of my tool pouch. Great video!
In my situation, using a .5mm pencil, I think I was breaking leads because the lead was too hard. I switched from an HB to a softer lead (2B or 4B) and now have less breakage. The line show up better on the surface too since the softness transfers more lead to the workpiece. Also, less coffee = less breakage!
I use hand drafting pencils. I went to school and took hand drafting classes. The key thing about the mechanical drafting pencils is the support for the lead at the tip in thin and even so when using a square or other tools it it easy to maintain the proper dimensions
I see someone beat me to the Pica pencil question. I bought the fat boy pencil several years ago after seeing it in one of your videos, I liked it a lot, until I tried a Pica. Worth checking into if you haven't yet.
I switched to the Sharpdraw fine line carpenter pencil three years ago and love 'em. They handle like an old fashioned carpenters pencil only they never need to be sharpened and the lead doesn't break. The best deals I've found are at Lowe's, buck fifty for the plastic body and four bucks for replacement leads. BTW the lead is carbon fiber reinforced and they truly never break. Because the lead is 0.8mm thick and 13mm wide it makes a consistent line every time just like a 0.7mm or 0.9mm mechanical pencil. They're sold all over the place so replacement leads are easy to come by.
Saw your video about the Fastcap FatBoy, went to your Amazon store and bought six, and some extra lead packs. Upon arrival I learned that some of the lead packs come with a generic version of the FatBoy. It has no erasure nor an internal lead sharpener. It's a bare-bone mechanical lead holder. If you ever revisit the topic of the FatBoy, thought you may consider including this. - That dark graphite lead is **dag-gone** messy! My right hand was entirely gray coated from just a brief time of handling one lead. The wet wipe I used to clean up became a 'gray wipe'. Although I see no likely projects involving dark hardwood, my upcoming timber frame projects in local cedar may need the use of the white leads. Hope to get some video of it being built on your Smart Bench.
I think the key to not breaking the lead is having a pencil with a retractable sleeve at the tip instead of a fixed sleeve. You don’t have to extend the lead as far. I like GraphGear pencils
The Graph Gear pencils have great reviews & appear really well designed, BUT I'd be hesitant to put one in my vest with that long hypodermic needle on the end (I'd want a protective sleeve/holster for it). Looks like it would also function well for close quarters self defense. Don't mess with unassuming, nerdy looking architects armed with these pencils. ;o)
@@IAMSatisfied The Graphgear 1000's have the pocket clip that, when pressed, opens the clip to slide onto your shirt pocket, and also retracts the "hypodermic" part into the surrounding cone. This is also great when you are ready to use it again, click the end of the pencil and it is right back to where you had it before you retracted it - no need to advance the lead again. I love mine.
OHTO Super Promecha is what I use. The problem with lead breaking off is that typically too much comes out when you click. This pencil has an adjustment for how much lead comes out when you click the clicky. I use a 0.9 for regular stuff and 0.3 for precise cuts. Also, there isn't a more Japanese name for a pencil than Super Promecha!
Thanks for posting this, Ron. I bought a Fatboy from Fastcap a few years ago, and the eraser was loose and fell out & was lost the very first day (Paul Akers, are you reading this?), and my experience with using it was the same as yours, so it never was my go-to pencil. I like the fact the Tul has a blunt front end compared to the pointy, hypodermic style of so many pencils... those don't "play well" with cloth pencil sleeves on tool pouches & vests. Edit: Another commenter informed me that the GraphGear 1000 series has the design feature where the "hypodermic" sleeve that houses the lead retracts when the pocket clip is depressed, thereby making the end safely blunt.
I use Pentel PD349TA exclusively. They’re around $7 each but if you buy them in a 12-pack, you can get them for less than 43 each. Pentel quality means they hold up well over time and the 0.9mm lead doesn’t break - even when marking across coarse wood grain. Best of all, the lead advance button is near the tip so I don’t have to change my grip and change back again (and risk dropping it) just to click the lead advance button on the top. How many times have you dropped a pencil while doing just that? Seems like it always happens when I’ve got a tricky cut lined up and I’m holding it firmly with my left hand so I have to let go, bend down to pick up the pencil, then realign the cut again. IMHO, Pentel’s “Quicker Clicker” is a must-have for woodworkers.
carpenters pencil - rough sharpen with a knife to a flat (not round point) , then fine sharpen on abrasive ("sand") paper to a chisel edge i.e. wide, flat point as wafer slim as y'like. voila!
I use my knife and sharp thin awl if I want a fine line but u have to have a special place to put it so it's efficient. Will use pens if I do flooring, it's hard to see the pencil lines.
Has more to do with the Graphite scale... in general the darker the line (which is what we like for visual ID) the softer the "lead" and easier breaking, the harder (which is what we want for durability) the "lead" the lighter the line appears, which is what we Don't want because we can't see it as well... you'll have to find the right balance for your particular technique....ps: DAISO stores have cheap packs of varying hardness and darkness ratings, convenient for testing purposes.
You should take a look at Rite in the rains Mechanical pencil. I work in the electrical field and I use that pen only when I need to make precise cuts/holes for panels/ buttons. The trick I use to make the marking precise is that I put a small mark on the side that I need to cut. Cos with a line you've 3 ways to cut left/center/right of the line.
There are mechanical pencils that have various forms of shock absorber in them. I also have them in a lot of fatter lead sizes: .7, .9, and 1.3. There are also fatter ones, but they require a sharpener.
Excellent topic. I do use the carpenter's pencil for rough carpentry.. but noit if I want accuracy. Long time user of the PENTEL.. I'll try the TUL and compare. Also will try other's recommendations of the PICA.
Also something to consider is the lead hardness. Using a.9mm mechanical pencil w/ 2B or B lead works well with little force. Works very well with soft wood like cedar.
Hi Ron, you’ll want to stick to the .5 mm mechanical pencil as it is the perfect companion for those Incra T-Rules and similar devices. I’ve been using Rotring brand ever since engineering school.
Dollar store pencils!!! A pack of 24 for two bucks everybody talks about all these expensive 30 $40 pencils. it’s funny when they forget theirs or Have it stolen. And the ppl ask me to borrow one of mine
I’ll second the Pentel Sharp. I’ve been using them for 26 years going back to the fourth grade for everything from school work, drafting and architecture, sketching, cabinet making and even rough framing in a pinch.
Bought a 8 dollar pencil from Lowes. Worked great for about 5 minutes. Now the led will no longer come out. Emailed the company and they told me basically they would need to do an autopsy on it to see if they could replace it. Wont embarass the company but i will stick with carpenters pencil with a sharp point.
I haven't used one. My preference is not to sharpen the tip so I didn't look at any of the options that required sharpening. I like to have the lead diameter small enough to give me the crisp mark or line so one click keeps me moving.
Fair enough. I guess I’ve found the pica to be the happy medium between carpenters pencils (which I use for framing) and mechanical pencils which I find to be so fragile.
So, it’s come to this. It Sunday morning during the “lockdown” and there is a beautiful blanket of snow building outside, fireplace crackling inside, and I’m watching Ron Paulk review pencils. This nation is definitely on an extended pause. Who has time to storm the capital-we’re much too busy for that sort of shenanigans.
Framers could care less about accuracy. And that is proven by the fact that they use those outdated carpenter pencils. They use chalk lines as much as pencils. Trim guys and cabinet makers are the ones who need accuracy. And they can get accuracy with a #4 pencil or a ballpoint pen. (The Pilot brand is my choice) Why people think they have to go high tech for everything is beyond me.
I can get just as accurate with a flat carpenter's pencil as I can with a regular round or any mechanical pencil for that matter. It all depends on the sharpening. I was a framer for 15 years.
Your framing pencil Your sharpening it wrong. You are sharpening it like a regular pencil It needs to be sharpened like its shape. Flat and to a chisel shape at the end - not a pointy shape. The pencil sharpener for it is a time saver - but it sharpens it in the wrong shape. Chisel shape is the shape you want to achieve. That is why it is shaped the way it is. It will give a sharper line over rougher surfaces for a longer period of time then a round tip. I've looked at those sharpeners when they first came out and didn't buy one for the reasons above. A no brainer decision.
I have a pencil graveyard full of the ones you showed Ron and since last year have been using the pencil from Pica and will not go backwards. They are fantastic. The inbuilt sharpener keeps it fresh and sharp.
Very helpful comment thank you! I never heard of them and just looked them up and they look awesome!
I also use the Pentel GraphGear 1000, (.5) ... built like a tank, and have survived a few trips off a ladder to boot.
I use the Pica pencil every day... My work requires a sharp pencil all the time... The fact that you can sharpen the leads yourself makes it perfect for me... The Pica leads tend to be hold up better than any others I have tried...
Hey Ron, you should give the pica dry a look. I'm a cabinet maker and on jobsites use it all the time, kept losing pencils from behind my ear all the time. Nice thing with the pica is they have holsters that can clip into pant pockets. Also have diffrent colours and hardness of leads. If you get the H hardness, it holds a fine point for a while and it's also fine line. The other party trick is the lead is soluble with water which is huge when working with white kitchens.
Not a fan of having to sharpen lead. It's messy and annoying to keep that sharp point. Try the Staedtler Mechanical Pencil 1.3
@@MistAtsiM I agree, but the holster really sold me, not haveing to thumble around trying to re clip the pencil on my pants, just drop it into the holder with a little push. I'm a little things kinda guy haha. Also try the H hardness lead, I'm going onto 6 months with the same lead. Holds that sharp point for ever and its a very faint line as well.
my husband has used pentel pencils for many yrs. in architecture and uses them in his woodworking. he uses 9mm leads for everything, the trick to maintaining a true point is to rotate as using. he says nothing can beat a pentel. forget the small diameter leads, us 9mm and you have it made.
Try the Pica Dry and you will never look back. I love 0.5mm, 0.7mm and 2mm pencils for drawings but switched completely to Pica Dry / Lyra Dry pencils for everything else.
Try: Staedtler Mars Technico 780C Leadholder.
The push button is also a sharpener.
You can use all the range of 7B to 7H as well as the usual HB. My fav for woodwork is 2B. You can also find different colours of leed, even white ones for dark woods.
I use it as a first fix as well as second fix. I had one for over 5 years and replace it for exactly the same.
Good luck!
I’ve had the same experience and have found that the lead in cheaper mechanical pencils are constantly breaking off. The nicer mechanical pencils click more precisely and doesn’t “click” out as much lead, which seems to support the lead better and prevents them from breaking off constantly as I pull them in and out of my tool pouch. Great video!
I agree with other commenters, the pica is such a great tool
Every one of those pencils he threw all landed perfectly into 20mm holes drilled on 96mm centers
Rite in the rain. For finish. Pica marker for framing they are incredibly accurate and durable
In my situation, using a .5mm pencil, I think I was breaking leads because the lead was too hard. I switched from an HB to a softer lead (2B or 4B) and now have less breakage. The line show up better on the surface too since the softness transfers more lead to the workpiece. Also, less coffee = less breakage!
Ron,
I've been using the same Pentel 0.9 for the past 15 years from framing to finish work.
I use hand drafting pencils. I went to school and took hand drafting classes. The key thing about the mechanical drafting pencils is the support for the lead at the tip in thin and even so when using a square or other tools it it easy to maintain the proper dimensions
Morning Ron I have been using tul pencil for several years and I really like them
It's fun to see what others are using. The Paper Mate Sharpwriter #2 (.7) has been my go-to for the last six months or so ;)
I just bought a Rotring 800 and will never go back. I haven’t broke a .7 led in a month.
Have you tried the Pica pencils?
I really like the pica too.
I see someone beat me to the Pica pencil question. I bought the fat boy pencil several years ago after seeing it in one of your videos, I liked it a lot, until I tried a Pica. Worth checking into if you haven't yet.
I switched to the Sharpdraw fine line carpenter pencil three years ago and love 'em. They handle like an old fashioned carpenters pencil only they never need to be sharpened and the lead doesn't break. The best deals I've found are at Lowe's, buck fifty for the plastic body and four bucks for replacement leads. BTW the lead is carbon fiber reinforced and they truly never break. Because the lead is 0.8mm thick and 13mm wide it makes a consistent line every time just like a 0.7mm or 0.9mm mechanical pencil. They're sold all over the place so replacement leads are easy to come by.
Saw your video about the Fastcap FatBoy, went to your Amazon store and bought six, and some extra lead packs.
Upon arrival I learned that some of the lead packs come with a generic version of the FatBoy.
It has no erasure nor an internal lead sharpener.
It's a bare-bone mechanical lead holder.
If you ever revisit the topic of the FatBoy, thought you may consider including this.
-
That dark graphite lead is **dag-gone** messy!
My right hand was entirely gray coated from just a brief time of handling one lead.
The wet wipe I used to clean up became a 'gray wipe'.
Although I see no likely projects involving dark hardwood, my upcoming timber frame projects in local cedar may need the use of the white leads.
Hope to get some video of it being built on your Smart Bench.
the Zebra Delguard .5 has a nose that slides up on the lead if you push it to hard so the lead doesn't break
I think the key to not breaking the lead is having a pencil with a retractable sleeve at the tip instead of a fixed sleeve. You don’t have to extend the lead as far. I like GraphGear pencils
The Graph Gear pencils have great reviews & appear really well designed, BUT I'd be hesitant to put one in my vest with that long hypodermic needle on the end (I'd want a protective sleeve/holster for it). Looks like it would also function well for close quarters self defense. Don't mess with unassuming, nerdy looking architects armed with these pencils. ;o)
@@IAMSatisfied The Graphgear 1000's have the pocket clip that, when pressed, opens the clip to slide onto your shirt pocket, and also retracts the "hypodermic" part into the surrounding cone. This is also great when you are ready to use it again, click the end of the pencil and it is right back to where you had it before you retracted it - no need to advance the lead again. I love mine.
@@jsabados Thanks, Jim, that's a pretty nifty design feature... I'll have to get one and test drive it... thank you for the heads-up!
@@jsabados I just received my order of a 7mm GraphGear and a 9mm GraphGear and that retractable tip is nice.
@@Grumpyneanderthal Yeah, the older I get, I find the .9mm is much easier to see!
OHTO Super Promecha is what I use. The problem with lead breaking off is that typically too much comes out when you click. This pencil has an adjustment for how much lead comes out when you click the clicky. I use a 0.9 for regular stuff and 0.3 for precise cuts. Also, there isn't a more Japanese name for a pencil than Super Promecha!
Thanks for posting this, Ron. I bought a Fatboy from Fastcap a few years ago, and the eraser was loose and fell out & was lost the very first day (Paul Akers, are you reading this?), and my experience with using it was the same as yours, so it never was my go-to pencil. I like the fact the Tul has a blunt front end compared to the pointy, hypodermic style of so many pencils... those don't "play well" with cloth pencil sleeves on tool pouches & vests.
Edit: Another commenter informed me that the GraphGear 1000 series has the design feature where the "hypodermic" sleeve that houses the lead retracts when the pocket clip is depressed, thereby making the end safely blunt.
Have you ever tried pentel graph gear 1000 .3 .5 .7 & .9 I love mine
I use Pentel PD349TA exclusively. They’re around $7 each but if you buy them in a 12-pack, you can get them for less than 43 each. Pentel quality means they hold up well over time and the 0.9mm lead doesn’t break - even when marking across coarse wood grain. Best of all, the lead advance button is near the tip so I don’t have to change my grip and change back again (and risk dropping it) just to click the lead advance button on the top. How many times have you dropped a pencil while doing just that? Seems like it always happens when I’ve got a tricky cut lined up and I’m holding it firmly with my left hand so I have to let go, bend down to pick up the pencil, then realign the cut again. IMHO, Pentel’s “Quicker Clicker” is a must-have for woodworkers.
carpenters pencil - rough sharpen with a knife to a flat (not round point) , then fine sharpen on abrasive ("sand") paper to a chisel edge i.e. wide, flat point as wafer slim as y'like. voila!
Exactly, and you can have it as rough or fine as you demand or need.
I use my knife and sharp thin awl if I want a fine line but u have to have a special place to put it so it's efficient. Will use pens if I do flooring, it's hard to see the pencil lines.
I came expecting to hear about Pica
Has more to do with the Graphite scale... in general the darker the line (which is what we like for visual ID) the softer the "lead" and easier breaking, the harder (which is what we want for durability) the "lead" the lighter the line appears, which is what we Don't want because we can't see it as well... you'll have to find the right balance for your particular technique....ps: DAISO stores have cheap packs of varying hardness and darkness ratings, convenient for testing purposes.
You should take a look at Rite in the rains Mechanical pencil.
I work in the electrical field and I use that pen only when I need to make precise cuts/holes for panels/ buttons. The trick I use to make the marking precise is that I put a small mark on the side that I need to cut. Cos with a line you've 3 ways to cut left/center/right of the line.
I have mechanical pencils by pica,hultafors and a pencil and market set message by tracer and they are the best thing since sliced bread! 🙂
There are mechanical pencils that have various forms of shock absorber in them. I also have them in a lot of fatter lead sizes: .7, .9, and 1.3. There are also fatter ones, but they require a sharpener.
Obviously these are personal preference, however I have found my go-to hultafors. Built-in sharpener, different color leads, holster.
I've been using Staedtler Mechanical Pencil 1.3. Works incredibly good. Try it out see if you like it. It won't disappoint
Excellent topic. I do use the carpenter's pencil for rough carpentry.. but noit if I want accuracy. Long time user of the PENTEL.. I'll try the TUL and compare. Also will try other's recommendations of the PICA.
Also something to consider is the lead hardness. Using a.9mm mechanical pencil w/ 2B or B lead works well with little force. Works very well with soft wood like cedar.
I use Exacto knives for close up work. Good video...
Thanks for sharing that!
I just want to see you throw the pencils again.
Hi Ron,
you’ll want to stick to the .5 mm mechanical pencil as it is the perfect companion for those Incra T-Rules and similar devices. I’ve been using Rotring brand ever since engineering school.
The Best pencil is a sharp pencil does not matter which one lol
Especially if that’s the only pencil you have
Dollar store pencils!!!
A pack of 24 for two bucks
everybody talks about all these expensive 30 $40 pencils. it’s funny when they forget theirs or Have it stolen. And the ppl ask me to borrow one of mine
I’ll second the Pentel Sharp. I’ve been using them for 26 years going back to the fourth grade for everything from school work, drafting and architecture, sketching, cabinet making and even rough framing in a pinch.
Give the Rockler Cabinetmaker's Pencil Set a try. The back end is a sharpener and it works great.....😎
I had one, its a bit fragile/cheaply made. It's still a Cool pencil though.
Bought a 8 dollar pencil from Lowes. Worked great for about 5 minutes. Now the led will no longer come out. Emailed the company and they told me basically they would need to do an autopsy on it to see if they could replace it. Wont embarass the company but i will stick with carpenters pencil with a sharp point.
Got a 24 pack of 0.9mm BIC mechanical pencils for $6. Not great for fine marks but works awesome for framing and such
Thanks.
The Fat Boy is great to shade a face you are sanding or jointing to make sure you're getting it all or sanding evenly.
To me, doing fine finish work requires pitching the pencil altogether. My go to is the Hock marking knife,,,,,
Thanks for the info
What do you think of the Pica pencil?
I haven't used one. My preference is not to sharpen the tip so I didn't look at any of the options that required sharpening. I like to have the lead diameter small enough to give me the crisp mark or line so one click keeps me moving.
Fair enough. I guess I’ve found the pica to be the happy medium between carpenters pencils (which I use for framing) and mechanical pencils which I find to be so fragile.
I am sure that you are not going to waste your disregard pencils
Ron I did not see these on your Amazon store?
amzn.to/3tdm2lL
@@TheSmartWoodshop thanks for the video. Got them ordered
Ron got my pencils off your link. They are awesome and thank you for the recommendation!
Also, if "they" can land a "man" on Mars, then why can't "they" make a stronger .5????? inquiring minds want to know... :)
So, it’s come to this. It Sunday morning during the “lockdown” and there is a beautiful blanket of snow building outside, fireplace crackling inside, and I’m watching Ron Paulk review pencils. This nation is definitely on an extended pause. Who has time to storm the capital-we’re much too busy for that sort of shenanigans.
I use pental .7 mechanical, tried .5 but it breaks to easily.
I have also used pentel foe years. I use the .7 mostly but sometimes use the .5 but it does break easier.
They make better pencils mechanical that is just your choice and they have built in sharpening on them as well .
Framers could care less about accuracy. And that is proven by the fact that they use those outdated carpenter pencils. They use chalk lines as much as pencils. Trim guys and cabinet makers are the ones who need accuracy. And they can get accuracy with a #4 pencil or a ballpoint pen. (The Pilot brand is my choice) Why people think they have to go high tech for everything is beyond me.
I can get just as accurate with a flat carpenter's pencil as I can with a regular round or any mechanical pencil for that matter. It all depends on the sharpening. I was a framer for 15 years.
I use an OLFA knife, its flex keeps it tight to the straight edge & you can score to avoid tearout. 2 birds, 1 stone
now go back to pick up those pencils :)
Your framing pencil
Your sharpening it wrong. You are sharpening it like a regular pencil
It needs to be sharpened like its shape. Flat and to a chisel shape at the end - not a pointy shape.
The pencil sharpener for it is a time saver - but it sharpens it in the wrong shape.
Chisel shape is the shape you want to achieve. That is why it is shaped the way it is.
It will give a sharper line over rougher surfaces for a longer period of time then a round tip.
I've looked at those sharpeners when they first came out and didn't buy one for the reasons above. A no brainer decision.
nice. I just stole my daughter's pencils for my work. oh well.