Pre-Wire Walk Through of Our New Smart Home
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 вер 2022
- Welcome to our new smart home! Today we look at what items I added to our new construction build in 2022 to make it the smart home around.
CL3 16/2 Wire: geni.us/JEG6W
14/2 Speaker Wire: geni.us/URsWTQ
Cat 6: geni.us/FHoAh
Klein Stapler: geni.us/z2knX
SUBSCRIBE here, it's FREE! bit.ly/SubscribeTWB
Check out these products I use and have reviewed: www.amazon.com/shop/techwithb...
Tech With Brett is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.
Connect with me: techwithbrett.com/links/
#SmartHome #NewConstruction #SerenaShades #SmartLights #TechWithBrett - Наука та технологія
I'm super excited to build a new smart home from the ground up! Any ideas you have for me to try out?
Pls try JULLISON smart slim recessed lights. It’s awesome!
great timing! i recently got a home too and am in the same stage as you
I would recomend using ubiquiti and their cameras unif protect if you want cameras
Brett,
Oh my, such fun times. Great Job & Sooo many great ideas in your beautiful new home.
I enjoyed your video log because I've built two smart homes myself. Well done on CAT6 Everywhere, you'll never regret that! Also well done on outlets in closets... my designs have outlets in all closets & lights in the closet headers!
Just a few thoughts if it's not too late... the 1st suggestion is kind of EXPENSIVE but worth considering.
1. Check out the smart "SPAN Circuit Breaker Panels." I know it means swapping out the existing 2 panels. It's about $3500 each... so it may depend on things like your emergency back up power plan or if you'll ever have solar, battery energy storage,...
2. In the garage... Consider adding a 100amp Circuit Breaker Panel... for future growth. Triple the 20amp outlets. Add 1 more NMEA 14-50 EV outlet in another car bay.
3. I've used the Excellent Lutron lighting controls and LOVE them too. Consider the Pico remotes as an inexpensive way to create 3, 4, 5 way controls. It's a great way to save on some copper wiring too. My next home will use much less copper.
4. Music Everywhere is so important to us... Consider Sonos systems for distributed audio. We have Sonos shelves & alcoves in halls, bathrooms, kitchen... all you need is 110v outlets. The Sonos Port or AMP control our In-Ceiling Speakers & control larger amps like in garage, Rec. Room, & theater for general music. Our previous home had a very expensive distributed audio system ... Sonos in this home is better & far cheaper; freeing up funds for better theater equipment. It also can grow with your needs.
5. Well done on quad outlets at all Bed night stands. But as far as plug strips with surge protect go, perhaps not ... consider a whole house surge protection option at your Circuit Breaker room to protect entire home.
Our last 2 smart homes had multiple UPS's on everything from IT Closets & Electrical utility rooms to Offices & Audio equipment. The next home in design now will have Solar & a few Tesla "PowerWalls" ... aka a whole house UPS. lol! No more UPS Bricks Everywhere.
You'll also be glad you have all the photos & videos too. Well done!
Cheers,
Eric
@@TinLenStudios They are over priced. Reolink would do just fine.
Hey Congratulations, Brett. Have fun building your home. I know it’s going to be awesome.
If you have any switch boxes that only have the 2nd switch for a 3 way, make sure you run a regular constant hot power wire to it as well. If you ever want to go back and add a motion switch that just controls automations, you will need a constant hot.
Also, if you are going to carpet the stairs, find a pressure mat, and get that in place before the carpet goes down. This way if you have lights for the stairs, you can use it to turn the lights on and off when you go up and down the stairs. If you are doing z-wave, get a door contact sensor that has wire terminals on it, then cut the end off the pressure mat, and wire it to the door contact, and you can use it to trigger the lights.
It’s probably to late to do it at this point, but run an extra cat 6 to your TV locations, and anywhere you might want to have a screen for camera views. You can use an HDMI to ethernet box, you can have a system that runs the video, and then just HDMI out to each screen. Samething with cable TV boxes, you can have 1 cable box work on multiple TVs, so you don’t have to pay for extra boxes. That will only make sense if you have places where you will to watch the same channel in the same room.
Congrats Brett. Can’t wait to see how you finish it out.
Great video. As a tech for fiber ISP, only concern I have is the fiber home run. Not having a full conduit (Smurf tube) run from exterior to panel makes things a bit difficult on the house. Some companies only work on a fully fiber circuit, fiber fed directly into their router via SFP. With no conduit the tech would have to drill a penetration hole or run exterior line into attic to get to the panel, if possible.
Yeah that is a great idea. I might have to add one before we finish the basement.
Nice job, glad to see you took advantage of open walls before the drywall was installed! Happy Days!
This is a great opetunity too create your home internet just love it can’t wait too see the final instalation
I can just hear the workers now. “he wants what?” 😂.
Great video
I love your videos they are so inspirational, entertaining and you explain properly you deserve 150 million followers
Congratulations! Can’t wait to see the new smart home tour
When we built our house. Every wall got a coax (not in an area with good internet) and 2 cat 6 cables. Every TV got 3 cat 6 (hdmi over cat6 matrix). Every single outlet got a smirf tube (empty) running to the attic, my attic is about 16' tall so I never have to crawl to install stuff. Just walk down and pull new wires.
In the garage, living room, master, and patio all have speaker wire running. (stereo to most but LR is in wall and in ceiling surround).
Every corner of the house got 2-3 cat 6 for security cameras.
All cables run back to a closet. With a rack for every. But that being said building took 10 months. Moved in March and since then I have found stuff I would have changed.
My wife helped me run all the wires, saved a ton on cost.
After taking possession of the house. Went in an installed kasa wifi switches on everything.
Also forgot to mention that I added smirf tube to all corners of the house. (locations of cameras)
The reason I went 3 cat 6 to every TV.
1 hdmi over cat 6
1 because I knew my remote was going to need IR blaster in whatever room(seeing all my equipment is in the closet)
1 for internet to the TV for whatever it needs.
Also we build a shop next to the house. Did my own electrical (100 amp) and internet in the shop too.
absolutely loved this, thank you
Brett, thanks for sharing your home build with us. It certainly explains what you have been up to lately!
We just moved into our newly built home at the beginning of July and I did a lot of smart switches (WIFI dimmers) for dumb lights and then selectively installed lots of WIFI downlights in different places. I did a lot of the Cat 6 cabling myself and still have a bunch to terminate. I have my WIFI 6 Nighthawk router at the top of the 2nd floor and it is amazing how fast the Gigabit WIFI is throughout the house. I am going to use the 2 access points I still have to install for 2.4 Ghz devices to take overhead off of the Nighthawk. Additionally, I am planning on using the wired ethernet for streaming and PC devices in the house again to take overhead off of WIFI. The problem for me is all the time it takes!
Great work! It does take quite a bit of time. It will be so nice when it is all done.
Looking forward to seeing the finished house.
Hi Brett! Keep up with the great content! I also want to make my home a smart home!
Sick house bro! I’ve been doing roughs for 20 years. Love it!
It was a really interesting process. I didn't want to step on the electricians toes but I also wanted to get things done the right way. Ideally I would have even added more but time was limited.
What to fiber for 10GB connection, just playing. Man that’s house would be 2 million dollars or more here in San Diego… congratulations on your new purchase. Can’t wait to see the new studio as well..
10GB might be an option... I will be planning the studio for next year. Excited to have one back in the house!
I can't wait for videos in the new house!
Looks amazing. Looking forward to seeing the video on Serena Shades with the hard wiring.
Thank you for all the info, I hope you have thought of everything, I know things change after today, good luck 🤞🏾👍🏿
That's true, everyday there are more ideas and new things I could do.
For the big window, try a SmartWings shade! This was a fun video, thanks Brett!
Yup. That’s what I have across my entire house . I got them with solar panel instead. No need for all the wiring for shades.
For our house, instead of a smurf tube they put in an HDMI plate for each wall mounted TV at the bottom, along with a coax cable and ethernet, and for a couple of tvs they also installed the analog red white and yellow plug for my PS2. It looks a lot cleaner and you don't have to worry about wires getting tangled up in the tube. You would need an HDMI switch if you have multiple things running on it, but thats not a big deal.
They also added a Versabox to some of our tvs, which is basically a box you put behind the tv in the wall so you can hide all the wires, cable boxes, roku, etc. A little pricey but in the long run worth it, and you don't have things cluttering a media cabinet.
I wish I would've seen your video before we wired our home, I probably would've gotten power to do smart shades instead of battery powered. I originally thought we wouldn't need them, but we did cordless shades and didn't realize how high up the windows went, so it needed to be powered.
Yeah I don't understand using a single gang junction box. Something like a Versa Box allows you to tuck in media streamer or conversion box right behind the TV. As far as Cat 6 to locations most builders are buying bulk boxed category cable. I'd recommend home owners looking to augment the builder installed stuff should look at bundled structured. A single pull can bring say 2 Cat6 cables, Quad Shield Series 6 (RG6) etc.
Good luck on planning what things put, how to design your home, and where to put things in the rooms. I’m very sure you will need it! :D
Very cool! I remember helping your brother run ethernet and empty conduit when he was building his house. Looks like youv'e taken it to the next level though, I'm excited to follow along for the ride.
I need to give him a shout-out for helping me with a lot of this! His house is next level, it certainly trumps my Smart Home.
Living the dream! (Love the power at each window).
I can't believe it is happening. I'm sure I could have done a million more things but I'm just happy I was able to get in before drywall was up.
oh hey the hook up i like your videos, maybe you could do a video on unifi protect cameras. you have helped me narrow down cams. Thank you for all you do
i think you thought of just about everything .....great video ..
So cool that u did a run through video before drywall seems like not many people do this kind of video
I'm glad I was able to get in there just in time.
Great video. Gave me a lot of ideas. One thing though. You're looking at the Smurf tubes in reverse. It's a lot easier going from the top down. Should just feed straight through.
Nice walkthrough, Brett. Imagine buying a house shell so you could make a very cool UA-cam video.
That Cat6 should last you until the fiber is the new thing.
Great video. I added a 6 conductor cable to the doggy door area and now I can control the doggie door with my voice. It uses a plunger to lock the door. Also your POE equipment will chew up a lot of power. You will need several circuits for the AV room for power. I have 3 circuits and had to balance them bc I was popping breakers. I also put in shakers for the theater room and needed to run speaker wire for each pair of shakers. If you haven't experienced them you are in for a treat. I didn't even go to the movie house to watch Top Gun because my theater room is better because of the shakers. I also added a controller for a drop down TV in the kitchen that is voice controlled. I can say "Hey Google turn on the kitchen TV" and it will drop down from inside the cabinet. You do not need to spend the extra money for Lutron shades. I made my own controllers they are voice controlled. My wife wanted to be able to turn on and off all the lights manually. So, I installed 5 tablets around the house and used an app called "ACTION TILES" to load every switch and outlet on a tablet. I found it remarkably easy to install and now she can dim any light in the house from the tablets. The tablets are charged by a cat 6 cable from the AV room. There is plenty of UA-cam information on this. No need to buy expensive Lutron for the lights. Every light in the house is voice controlled with Samsung smart things. Good luck with the build.
Love what you've done! What did you use instead of Lutron shades and switches? I'd love to save money but don't know if any others are as reliable.
When I moved into my grandparents old house i had a couple of my buddies go up in the attic and run flexible orange conduit to all the tv locations, I ran HDMI, and 2 Ethernet cables to each. I wish I would have ran coax as well. The extra cat 5 was a pull line if needed. Everything runs back into a closet where the networking equipment and TiVo's are located. We even ran cat 5 into the closet for the internet provider to use, and made sure to leave an extra in case of future upgrades. This was in 2017. Fiber internet just made it out here about 5 months ago, use the pull line to run the fiber from under the house right into the closet in no time. About 3 weeks ago I ran fiber from that same closet about 200ft out to my man cave and that pull line came in handy again. My advice put in that conduit from the attic to the room where all your equipment is going to be. Will save tons of time and money in the future. Looks like you got room for 3 inch pipe!
Great tip! I actually did a conduit run in my parents house like this to an entertainment closet. I probably should finish the video about that...
Congratulations!!! Great job getting everything the way you want it👍🏻….We moved a couple of years ago and did buy a new house, but drywall was up before I could get to it. Are you staying mainly Google with some Alexa or vice versa? Remember to keep the family in mind….non techies don’t like to tinker, they just want it to work🤣…..Excited to see future progress and the finished product…Thanks for shring and all the info to help us.
The family is always the first thought when I try to add something new. We have been mainly Google in the home but we might give Alexa a try.
In Europe you would build a big distribution box with KNX, put a green bus cable to all push buttons and sensors and be done with it.
Apart from programming everything of course…
Hi Brett. Thanks for the video! Must be exciting for y'all but exhausting at the same time. I would personally hard disagree RE: network wiring, but this is coming from someone who puts extra effort into keeping as much off the wifi as possible. Not for security, but just straight performance/reliability. If I were you, I would be running CAT6 everywhere and double as many as I thought I'd need.
Our house wasn't a new construction (ya lucky duck!) so I had someone run 2x to where each TV is, plus another 2x to my office. Turns out it wasn't enough! While everyone may have different feelings on a TV in the bedroom, my wife and I like to go in there outside of sleeping hours to get comfy and play games, listen to music, or just watch TV. Therefore, with a Roku/Apple TV/etc., game console(s) and the TV itself, my only choice was to add a network switch (not great for S.A.F.!) to connect them all via wire. However, I have moved to the TP-Link in-wall APs that have multiple NIC outputs, so that has worked in the meantime. In future, I'd do 1 electrical box for the AP, but run multiple network wires within the same cavity, so if I wanted to add another box for network wires, I could! :) Have a wonderful day, bud!
P.S. Great idea about the wires for the smart shades... oh and I never heard "Smurf tube" used as a term when talking about conduit! hehe That conduit is a great idea, and one I already would love to replicate in a new house, or when I get around to redoing my basement!
Awesome Video Brett! I have watched 4 times video to make all the notes!! 😀 And I have quick question? Now a days every one watching TV from app services! Having said that do we need coaxile cable every room where the TV to will be mounted?
Nice setup sir. I am one of the crazy ones who ran 3 Ethernet plus a fiber optic cable. My thinking was one is for internet (which will pay off if they ever add a gig nic on TV's), one for 4k video, and one for IR for remote back to the rack. The fiber will be for 8k feeds in the future. I did run some smurf too both as a drop down to media centers and I ran it all straight to the rack room. Also audio runs in every ceiling room for whole house audio. Needless to say I'm a nerd but love this stuff. Keep up on sharing the fun!
Every other pre-wire video I watched talked about whole house audio. I guess we just don't listen to music that much because it seemed like way too much to do. We already put a smart speaker in ever room so that will be the majority of what we listen to.
@@TechWithBrett Yeah it's not for everyone. My family is pretty obsessed with music so it made sense for us. My home builder wouldn't even run audio so I just had to do it all myself in the dark on a weekend haha. Talk about tight timing as you mentioned before the drywall went up. And while we are using cheap speakers now, as soon as I get the home theater processor and receivers with multiple channels going it'll all come together nicely.
Smart Branden!!
Brandon, that’s exactly how it should be done
As a wise man once said “ the most expensive cable is the one you never ran in prewire “
Thanks Brett 😊,
JaneLee - in Suburban Philadelphia
2/4/23
Thank you for wiring information. I' m wondering why signal cables are not put inside in guiding tube, like power cables? No plan to replace them?
Looks good. I just did almost exactly the same thing to our new house. Instead of low voltage to the windows though I have 120V outlets in the corners of all of them to provide more power (our windows are large so shades and blinds will be heavier than normal). I also have 120V outlets in the ceilings in all the room corners for sensors &/cameras. I had the wiring for the doorbell camera & a hookup for a control panel (tablet) next to the front door.
Not for "smarts" but I have a couple of floor mounted outlets behind where we're going to put one of our couches. We'll have a table behind it and the outlets will let us plug in lamps, rechargers, laptops, whatever right under the table without needing to have any cords crossing the floor. We also wired under the breakfast bar so we can have cup warmers or chargers right there.
I like your Smurf tubes. We used 2"PVC but the same purpose. We ended up with two breaker panels in the mechanical room. Way more circuits than typical 🙂
That's great! I was surprised that we ended up with 2 panels as well but they do look a bit smaller.
@@TechWithBrett LOL! We have one large one and another that looks about half that. Plus the cat6 panel. So much for downsizing 🙂
You can never have enough outlets.
What I don't understand is why you would pay anyone to run all your low voltage, ethernet & security wires. That does not require a license and saves you a bundle.
My #1 tip would be to go buy a ton of inch & a half sheetrock screws or deck screws and fasten your subfloor to the joists. This will drastically reduce creaks and squeaks in the future.
#2 tip, put blocking anywhere you think towel bars, toilet paper, grab bars, & mirrors will be located.
Similar to what you mentioned, when studs are exposed take some reference measurements but mark you studs/blocking with a sharpie marker and then take pics.
Those are great tips! I was planning to go in and do all the low voltage, but it was a bit tricky with timing. The builder didn't want me to do anything before the inspection was complete and then being unsure of when drywall was going to hit, I played it safe and had them do it. With all the wire and hardware they ended up using it didn't cost too much more for them to put it in, and they had to deal with all the frustrations of doing it. 😆
Fabulous Video Brett.
Seems like an Ambitious undertaking for having some Dreams actually coming true.
Congratulations and The Very Best to You and your Family with your Brand New Smart Home 🏘️.
😊,
JaneLee - in Suburban Philadelphia
9/3/22
Going to Share this with my Son who is an
Electrician 🙂
Hey buddy where do u buy the smurf tube and boxes tube connect to. Very inforamative video. Thanks
Sick! I'm ready for the house warming party!
Great video Brett . I love seeing such pre-wiring video to get some ideas . Why you did not considered the Cat 8 Ethernet cable for future proofing ? You also did not show your basement Media room ? Are you going to use Projector & Speaker systems in the basement ?
I feel like Cat 6 is plenty for normal house usage. The basement media room will eventually happen when we finish that next year. I will need to start planning that soon. I will probably tech it out a bit more.
@rajan I was thinking the same. I have 1Gb down and you only get the full speed with Cat 8
Awesome opportunity and awesome video. Great tips and love the small dose of reality at the end that each power and network drop costs money. What’s the plastic wrap over some of the walls? Permanent?
That is a vapor barrier on the exterior walls. Standard on all homes around here.
The under cabinet light was a head turner for me. For the undercabinet lights, I just had them install an outliet far up the cabinet and then installed a LED light skirt on my cabinet to conceal the outlet and outlets on the toe kick of of all my cabinets then I can use LED strip with wifi instead. I'll rather use LED strips like Nanoleaf. I have it in my current house and it works perfectly so I'll be continuing with it.
Great walkthrough Brett. Did you consider cat7 for better electrical shielding. I did my property refurb with cat7 throughout and it worked out a treat...
I certainly could have but decided on Cat 6 as it should be plenty for standard usage in the house. In the basement it might be different when I finish it as I plan to tech it out a bit more.
really nice Brett.- only thing is the way they have hooked the cat6 to the wall . when you want to replace does, it will be hell. Never know what will happen. and you need to replace one . other then that thats a great new house :D
Luckily I do have attic access so if I ever do need to do that I can use part of the old lines to pull new ones through but I think these will have a pretty good lifetime.
I couldn't tell from your video how deep your electrical boxes are for switches. One lesson I learned when replacing standard switches with smart switches is that I wished my electrical boxes were deeper.
They are just standard but that would have been a great choice to make them deeper. By the time we talked to the electricians they had most the boxes up.
Thx for this video, framing continues next week for us. And I’m doing all the wiring for 4K distributed video & audio & smart home. Question on your LED strips in the kitchen. How does that tie into the light switch? I bought into the Lurton eco system myself for my last house & i removed all of my light switches & fan controls before I sold the house. I’m sort of familiar with electrical, where one leg goes to the light itself. I’m confused b/c I was thinking the CL-3 was more of a low voltage cable but does it go into the same electrical box as the high voltage? What I’m asking is when you press the on button, is the cl3 wired to the same switch with high voltage?
I didn't wire it but after double checking this is how it is setup. At the light switch that is where the 120v comes in. It then carries power to a transformer in the blue outlet/low voltage box, it then converts it to 12v for the low voltage wiring. Talking with the electricians they said I will be able to put a dimmer on the light switch so I can add a smart switch dimmer there.
Do you have more info on your sound system set up? We are at the point to put in our electrical on our new addition
Great VIdeo, what driver did you end up using for the kitchen LED strips? Is it dimmable, any recommendations?
Yes the driver is dimmable. I have a Diva Smart Switch on it and it works pretty goof. This is what the electricians used: LED Lightstrip Transformer imgur.com/a/LDArcg5
What was floor level in the master bedroom? Was that a robot vacuum opening? It was trimmed out in aluminum, lower left from the outlet you talked about.
That is just a return air for the HVAC system. It would be really cool to have a hidden door somewhere for a robot.
Have you considered installing a Control4 smart home system? I have seen a lot of new builds with systems like that.
I have thought about it but barely had time to get this stuff in. Maybe down that road I will look it do it. I have considered doing a Ra3 for lighting but we'll see.
@@TechWithBrett With the current wiring that you have you could easily do a Control4 install in the future, which is the great thing about prewiring CAT6 to all those locations :)
I'm more of a fan of home assistant so I wasn't tied to an automation installer adapting all my automation needs given they change over time. I was pretty amazed to find it integrated with all my existing stuff on the first try so haven't looked back since.
Hey Bret. all right i have a question. you have been living in your new house for a while. when do we get a new house tour. I am very curious what you have created for new function.
You can never have to many outlets Brett- if you think 2 is enough you probably need 4, that is what I did when I built and still wish I had more in some of the rooms. Did not hear you talk about it but are you also pre-wiring for a alarm system? I would highly recommend it- you can have all the sensors embedded in the doors and windows along with a siren, motion sensor and a control panel (if you want or just use a app), then use something like Konnected to run it and then control it with Smart things, Home Assistant, etc.
Maybe I did add them all and just didn't want to show... Door sensors is something I debated over but just ran out of time. Great feedback!
I felt the same way and went more extreme than most and even I ran short not factoring in door sensors and sirens and some window wires for shades after feeling shell shock from the price of the house as it was configured but overall I'm still pretty happy with it and my rack room is chalked full of work I need to do to get it all online still. My builder was pretty picky at what they would do too and often told me I'd need to add outlets to ceilings if I ran RJ 45s there which seemed odd but they weren't happy with my non-standard suggestions lol.
Awesome ideas! But only two access points in the whole house?
The home isn't very wide or long so I probably will just have one per level, didn't mention the basement because we won't finish that for awhile.
For your LED lights under the kitchen cabinets, what is your power source? Are you using a transformer that’s plugged directly into a switched outlet? Are those LEDs somehow dimmable? Are the 3 16/2 cables connected to the same power source?
Thanks!
Yes. So from the light switch the lines go to a box where the transformer is where all the 16/2 cables go to. Then they are tied in through the Transformer. And yes the LED lines are dimmable. I have them connected to a Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer. Here are some more details: imgur.com/a/LDArcg5
Great video. One question, did you have any concerns regarding the Smurf tube proximity to the fire place flu?
Everything seemed like it was fine. I would do my best to make sure they are not touch.
What is the term for the box that the CAT6A are housed in?
Damn. Wish I was able to turn you on to a true low voltage lighting system. For your next build check out ATX LED… amazing stuff. No need for running 120 above standard electrical outlets.
Doing the full surround system in the bedroom was an interesting choice. Why did you choose to do that in the bedroom vs the family room? Also have your electrician wire in a whole house surge suppressor to your electrical service panel. Are you going to install smart lawn irrigation? Congrats on the new home!
The one request my wife had was that we don't put a TV in the family room above the fireplace. I have it wired in case we ever do in the future, but the TV would also be way too high above the fireplace. I did the bedroom as sort of my backup surround location as I do plan to have our main "theater room" in the basement.
@@TechWithBrett Our house came with in-wall speakers in the master bedroom. Having a 5.1 system in there is totally overkill but I dont hate it! Also, the master bath has an in-ceiling speaker which is really nice to have. Its wired to zone 2 of the master bedroom receiver.
I've seen people strongly suggest adding wood between studs in places where TV's & towel bars will be mounted.
Oh that is a great idea!
Why did you run the coax? Only to support cable tv? Any other downsides to leaving it out?
The builders ran that by default. I plan on never using it but I know many people that still use it for traditional cable. You could leave it out but might be nice to have a few in the home at main tv locations.
hi there! so we are rebuilding a 1980s building into 4 lux apts for mid- term rentals for govt contractors. We want to pre wire the building so the cable company does NOT come in later and mess up our apts. However, they (xfinity is our only choice) refuse to even discuss it. Any suggestions ? we are both BC-A contractors and owners on the job.
You forgot the bathrooms .. overall nice and smart work 👍
Any smart bathroom device recommendations?
I think you will need a coax cable for the subwoofer but most importantly, why are the ethernet cables going to two different places in the same room?
I forgot to mention I did swap out that cable to RCA for that. I found out a subwoofer needs to have a shieded cable. Are you asking about in the bedroom? I ran 2 behind the TV but I could also pull the out on the bottom behind an entertainment center if I needed to for a game console. Or I can use of the for audio back to the receiver in the basement.
Hi Brett, do you think you will consider PV Panels on your roof?
I hadn't thought that far ahead. Roof is a bit odd but I might consider it down the road.
Hi Brett,
Next to garage door why do we need POE CAT6 cable? Can we not install power outlet?😊
POE was cheaper to add than an outlet and many times you might have a bad Wifi signal outside so POE can give your decive a dedicated 1GB connection for data as well. That being said, I would have liked to add more outlets up and around the soffits of the home just in case I want some.
I took out my phone and coax cables long time ago just have Ethernet wiring two in each room
IMO, i would have put in a 2" conduit from floor to floor. For future wiring. I would have also put in a small rack cabinet or bracket at the top of the house for all the cat6 to go to, then ran 2 cat6 & a fiber to the main location. Having a switch at each floor leave for expansion later in the future.
Great ideas.
@@TechWithBrett Now you know what i used to do for a living :)
Hey Jason, that sounds interesting! If they all run to the top of the house, how would that all run into the main room in the basement? - David
@@FWIWealthManagement run the conduit to middle of house into a media box that you can use as a central point, or run one large one down to main area of house.
I always put 4" Smurfs between floors, you have done none and that is a very easy run you showed perfect places to make those runs! I always put TWO CAT 6 to every CAT location - CAT is relatively cheap - it's all about labor. You have half CAT locations I would - either side of master bed, every wall of other rooms, the place you will do charging in the kitchen, garage. Quick look tells me you need a minimum of 4 AP's (not the two you are doing). Another thing I am doing nowadays is Toe-Kick LED strips in Kitchens - either with daylight sensor or even 24/7. I also only run 18g for LED lighting CL3 is really Not thick enough for DC in my experience. Garage needs a whole lot more outlets - even if you are not going to be woodworking or gearheading. The termination box you have in the basement is VERY undersized, even for what you had brought down. I could go on and on but think you have missed your window as I thin drywall coming in tomorrow. I wish you the best!
Yeah drywall is already up but I love all the recommendations! I do have basement access still so I have the potential to add a few more runs.
Also try a new smart vacuum
Why is there OSB on the walls in the bedrooms? For sound proofing?
They only do that for outside walls here.
As an ISP technician i've always wondered why people never run proper entrance wires into their network rooms before the drywall is up when you have a specific location the modem needs to be.
If you're planning on having fiber installed at the house, you really should get an electrician or your ISP to run that fiber directly into your network closet.
That is one thing I certainly didn't think about and the electricians ran most of the cables... so that really didn't help much. I have routed the cables to a better wall location but some are short now. I should have planned ahead.
@@TechWithBrett Yeah i've seen this countless times and the home owners wish they heard that information before they placed drywall.
@13:07 in your bedroom what is that rectangular hole in the wall right at floor height that goes through the bedroom wall into your bathroom?
It is an air return.
@3:15 is your roof truss snapped in 2 and stuck back together?
It is just how they are built on longer gaps.
Should have put all the network cables and coax cable into conduits.....they will be phased out.....
Can you do a Daily board on samsung tablets in the next vid?
Did builder allow you to run your on cables? did you negotiate this or just sneaked in and ran wires before they put up the dry wall?
The GC was a little skeptical about me doing it so I did pay to have the electricians do the majority of it and then when they were done and the Inspection was done the GC said I could go in and add more but to be careful where I drilled. Building a good relationship with them could help and maybe a pre plan of what you are going to do.
@@TechWithBrett Thanks Brett. I really appreciate your quick response. All I need is a few ethernet drops but $500 each is like day light robbery. what about the outlets you added are those covered by sheetrock and you finished those after closing on the house? if its not the part of electrical plan, wont anyone notice the extra unfinished outlets? sorry I am just trying find the best way to deal with this when time comes. TIA
We were able to do a pre walk-through with the electricians and chose where we wanted to pay extra for outlets. I may have added a few extra the night before drywall went up 🤫. I am super glad I did because while it is possible to add outlets later, it is way cheaper and easier to do it before the drywall is up.
Do you think a wireless smart home system will be a better choice?
For existing homes it is really the only option. If you have the chance to wire before hand it can save you some headaches and possibly lots of batteries depending on what you want in your smart home.
How much is each Lutron panel
The wire going to your sliding door could be used for a hard wired contact sensor. Wired sensors are also nice on entry doors as you never have to change batteries. I noticed that you didn't show any wiring for a home security system. It's a good idea to keep that private and not to show it on UA-cam.
Great job. The EV outlet really needs to be 60 amp not 50. And the Netwerk patch panel is going to need to be triple the size. Otherwise looks awesome
Right not I'm not positive what that actually is. Since the cable is there I assume we can just change that at the breaker? I definitely need to be looking for a bigger patch panel. I was surprised they even provided something.
@@TechWithBrett Depends on the gauge of wire that was used to run the EV circuit. Six gauge would be for 60 amp and 8 gauge for 50 amp. So if you have a six gauge wire then you can change your breaker otherwise do not. 50 amp is good for many vehicles but a new Tesla would be best with 60 amp service and set the vehicle to 48 A draw. You really shouldn’t draw 48A from a 50amp service as you should leave 20% reserve at all times. Electric Vehicles are only getting bigger and bigger battery packs all the time so if you don’t plan to get a vehicle for a few years better to have a larger service put in before hand. Best of luck.
my builder only offered 50 amp unfortunately so we made do with that but my outside external panel has a few spots open for running something higher which just happens to sit outside my garage so it shouldn't be too big of a pain to add more.
Can someone explain the difference between POE and a CAT cable?
There is no difference. PoE comes from the network switch with stronger power supply sending standards based energy over you basic category cable. So really there is no PoE cable rather PoE can be used safely on Category 5e and up.
I'd double up on the cat6 if not more
Wow all wood....something new for me...our buildings are all bricks.
Man, I wish I was building my house again. No toe kick lighting in the kitchen and bathrooms?
I didn't think that far ahead but that would certainly be doable! You still love yours?
🧡
Why the Smurf tube?
Is the home complete? when are you doing a home tour?
The home is complete! I'm working on adding more items before we do the full tour.
@@TechWithBrett nice! Can't wait to see how it turned out. we are doing a new build at the moment. My builder is allowing me to run my low voltage wiring so I was hoping to grab ideas off yours. Debating if ceiling speaker wiring are worth it - Sonos has come a long way. Hows your ceiling speakers in your bed room?
Who was your builder?
Why would you not do Poe lighting?
Never heard of that...
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I hope you have still photos & video of each room for future reference or next owner. Kudos to your dad. Hunter Douglass has motorized vertical blinds I want
How many sq ft your home is
Congrats, that house will be a house of the future. 🤔 Looks like about 3,000-3500sqf.
It is going to take some work but I can't wait!
your power strip does not add surge protection fyi
I would have wired all the windows for contact sensors so you don't have to use battery powered contact sensors for security.
I debated on this but in the end ran out of time but wish I had. I have seen some newer sensors that are lasting up to a year so I'll have to try those out.
@@TechWithBrett If I had a pick between wired contact sensors and wired blinds I would have went with wired blinds too.
@@donnycasey6613 That's my biggest regret is not adding some outlets or wires into my great room windows for smart shades. If you do an outlet you can get both though. I'll figure out a way somehow to wire them, it's just going to be a gnarly job routing wires from the two outlets below the windows around and drilling through 5 studs while doing that 16' up. The basement though is all decked out with outlets in the window seams so it will be getting automated first.
I love you