As an engineer and ex-teacher, I find your VDOs one of the best in YT. You gave clear and precise lessons that are so easy to understand, an example for other UA-camr to take note. Congratulations.
THE best tutorial for wiring DC electrics. Super easy to follow, just what you need to do AND WHY. The visuals are beautifully set out. Pitch perfect in every way. Thank You.
Yup, I would much rather have too much information then not enough. I've seen so many project videos on youtube where the presenter assumes you have a bunch of info you might not have.
Hey great great instructions, i have a rudimentary question. When i physically push the positive wire on the battery terminal into the Victron controller, the solar wattage coming in increases by up to 50%. I have reconnected, tightened, fiddled with this connection point but am alway left with the fact that if i apply pressure on the wire into the terminal, my solar power changes. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
I have experienced this same exact thing! When I pinch pressure on the wire running from my positive lead into the Victron my incoming wattage jumps up. Did you find anything regarding this?
I just fried both my solar chargers by not disconnecting the solar panels when I disconnected the battery and reconnected them. Apparently you should NEVER have the solar panels connected while battery is disconnected and reconnect the battery. Sounds like you are connecting the panel first, and then the battery... Maybe that works on Victron but on other brands that will fry our solar charger.
Hi Guys and thanks 4 a really great post that has finally helped me understand why that box is so important and in relation to the CC and SPs. I absolutely could not have done my electrical/solar without your channel. I’m a 56 year old solo nomad and your videos are really “THE BEST” content out there about this solar installation, the safe and quality way. Keep up the great work.
Hey brother,you a best teacher ,your video on solar disconnect is good,I interested in hooking batteries in series and parallel also POV in series and parallel
Thank you for all the knowledge you share! really appreciated! I've been wanting to build my own camper for a while and your videos give me so much more confidence! Regarding Wire lengths, is it best practice to keep the +ve & -ve wires the same length for each section in the build? or is that only useful in the connection from the Battery Bank to Inverter/charger?
Great video and so nice to see the lynx system being mentioned. a standalone video on the lynx would be handy for everybody. namely how the extra cost and fancy pcb are worthless without the VERY expensive lynx shunt so adding megafuse's to the 'power-in' lynx box and it does the same job albeit without the fuse blown LED's which wont work without the shunt anyway..... i used a 'power-in' as a fused busbar and it is great and so tidy!!
I messed around with some other brands when I was still learning and then I just purchased Victron. It is so robust and easy to use. It is the standard. PERIOD.
After seeing so many similar setups, I have a concern about the charge controller. Would a blown battery fuse cause damage to the charge controller? My mppt controller says to never connect solar before batteries, so a blown fuse would create this scenario. Is there a way to protect agaist this?
Victron charge controllers are rarely damaged when disconnected from battery power before solar. It can happen, but they are robust enough that it's very rare. I can't speak for all brands of charge controllers, though.
Most likely it will go fine as long as the solar cherger is booted up and not dead and then suddenly connected to battery while getting full blast from the solar panels at same time... I just fried both my 2 solar chargers that is always connected to panels by flipping the switch connecting them to the battery while they was dead and not booted up...
I remember you became an ambassador for Victron Energy awhile back, and I have two questions.. Which of your designs would be applicable for use in a 800-1000 sqft off-grid home? And or, do you have the name of someone within Victron that could provide design support?
Hey Nate Your videos are super informative and helpful. Thanks! I'm connecting a Victron MPPT Solar Controller 75 / 15 to portable solar panels (4 panels with 200 Watts) and my Battle Born lithium battery. The panels came with Anderson plus using 8 AWG wire and I cant "cleanly" fit the wire into the small opening on the controller so I want to use ferrules like you do. Can you tell me where to buy just a handful of that size? I see they're available on-line from a variety of sources but I don't need100++. I'd also be curious where you'd recommend attaching an Anderson plug to the outside of an RV (ours is a Ford E350 4X4) to give easy access and still protect it from the elements. Thanks
Your videos are great. I put together a small system that appears to function well. However I've encountered an issue that I have never seen mentioned in any ones videos. Most of my power tools, razor, blender some medical devices and rechargeable lighting does not appear to be usable! Standard 120v appliances do work fine. The problem is after a complete reading of the owners manual for my 1000w pure sine wave inverter I learned electrical devices using NiCad batteries will probably be damaged by the typical simple solar system.. So now that my rv has a basic solar system the only thing I can do with it is charge my phone.
Confirm the 100 | 30 doesn’t use one of those little green connector plugs like I see on the dc to dc chargers? I didn’t get a green plug in my box . Hoping I didn’t throw it out if it came with it. Didn’t see it here. 💪🏼
I have the same MPPT controller aboard my yacht, but having just wanted your video notice that I have not run a negative wire from the side screw back to the negative bus. Is it critical to do so?
So I have a set up using this MPPT, which while the system is off, is still pulling in a charge and therefore sends the Inverter into a Fault. We think maybe it's the Lynx Distributor that is malfunctioning... Once we turn the system on, we get a BMS disconnect Error (the solar can't find the BMS when the system is Off)... The rep where we bought it is not able to diagnose further. I'm hoping you've seen this error before and can help us.
Nate, appreciate your videos and wiring plans. I have a question about a solar isolator vs a battery switch. Apparently he isolator switch disconnects both + & - of the solar panel, while a battery switch disconnects only the +., but it still shuts off the current. The isolator is rather bulky compared to a battery switch. Why not use a battery switch instead?
Hi, i have a question, i'm about to build a portable Victron station, in a box, ( hopefully a proper job, not a Blueankerflow) so a question about the ground, at 03:53, your diagram shows a connection to chassis ground, however i won't have a ground in my box build, so can i use the battery positive as chasis ground. Kit will probably be, Lifepo4, Lynx distributor, multiplus 12/1600, 100/50 mppt, shunt, BMS etc. Thanks.
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I would like to ask you and perhaps others hear about Ferrells,,,I have a 100/50 Victron smart charge controller one thing I have noticed is the wires Solar and Battery and Battery out etc. will pull out of their little wire sockets rather easily I’ve got them pretty good right now however I don’t have the upmost faith in them. I have seen you and others use ferrules for these charge controllers and I have heard others cry wolf and say not to use them,,,have you had good luck using ferrules??? I want a better way of securing my wires in the charge controller. please and thank you to everyone,,,by the way you make an excellent video here.👍
Great speaker, exelent in fact. Very thorough, very professional. I want a 12v system for my mobile off grid system with LifePo batteries. Where can l find you?
Great instruction, really precise and clear only I'm not using a lynx distributor so am I connecting it to my normal negative on my bus bar or fuse box negative??
Thanks for all the great info on your UA-cam channel. I have been looking for a 30amp mega fuse for the Victron lynx as they recommended for 100/30 dc to dv changer and 100/30 solar changer then I read your parts list and you used a 60amp fuse. Just trying to find the right info. Thanks
I don’t understand. I thought they did the same thing as far as shunt, but the lynx has the positive side whereas the smart shunt does not. Am I missing something?
The SmartShunt is a monitoring device. The Lynx Distributor is a power distribution device. I think this may help: ua-cam.com/play/PLmvhcyi4n0TUU8FUc6LE38TBkdSLjdw_5.html
I understand now. I’m installing in my class A and was planning to use my existing fuses instead of the lynx but after studying your drawings and videos I like the idea of using it. (Ordered from your site this morning) Thanks!
I have 200w on the top of my caravan and If my controller is big enough spec wise could I add a second panel in parallel? I’d like to run a wire straight from the controller to a plug so I can add a further panel on the ground when I’m away for longer periods, but wouldn’t use it all the time, just have it as plug and play.
Hey, I always hear about attaching to backer board, but specifically what kind? What is a good thickness and what type? I have a Renogy charger/inverter that is really quite heavy and nervous about mounting it. Thanks in advance
All of our wiring kits include screws for 3/4" Ply. I'd be concerned for anything thinner, specifically for inverter/chargers. Just a charge controller would probably be fine with 1/2", but I always use 3/4".
Hi thank you for your videos. I have a question. I have 2 48 volts batteries in series to make 96 volts and I have 2 victron. solar charger 48 volts can I wire them in series to get 96 volts and I only have 1 solar panel 400 watts. Thank you
So far nobody has said if you wire in series and have a positive and negative wire left. Does the positive wire left go into the positive hole of the charge controller etc or do you put them in like you did when you connected them in series. Positive in the negative and negative into positive holes of the charge controller.
Love your videos!! Could tell us why you “can” or “can not” connect 5 (all matching) panels in this configuration - 2 x 2 in series, with the 5th in parallel with the 2 series tied given a MPPT controller that will easily handle, amps/voltage of any configuration with these five panels. Say 5, 100 watt Renogy panels, and Victron 100/50 charge controller. NEED TO KNOW THE GROUND TRUTH! THANKS!!!
Amazing set of videos for wiring campervan solar, slowly starting to to feel that this isn't just doable, it might even be fun! One question though, what is the reason you wire the MPPT Battery Output to the Lynx Distributor instead of going direct to the battery? In my mind, it would save an extra outlet from the distributor, for the cost of some extra lenght of wiring.
What kind of ground do I need for my solar/rv system? I have my system laid out pretty much identical to the "Argosy Project". I have a 400ah battery bank, Multiplus 12/3000, Lynx Distributor, and 2 MPPT controllers. If I run my ground wire from my charge controllers, to my Multiplus, to my distributor, to a chassis ground is that all that is needed? Do I need to ground my solar panel frames? I have all my AC outlets wired up with a ground wire to the ground bus bar in my WFCO distribution panel. I also have my shore power connection running through a Hughes smart surge protector.
In classic physics, the earth of supposed to get rid of extra current that somehow gets out of the electrical wires and to a given system body like a metallic cover. So I'm wondering why you connected with the earth and negative/neutral together? Even in houses, the earth/ground has a special connection that is actually going to the ground via a copper rod. And that is not mixed with negative. Is it the is a difference between AC ans DC current?
Hi Nate, Great video... thankyou. I have a Victron Smartsolar MPPT 100/50. In the installation manual section 4.4, it states that the chassis grounding is for 30A model only. There is a chassis ground point provided on my MPPT 100/50. Should I ground my MPPT 100/50? Thanks
In my Toyota Coaster motorhome, do I need to wire in the ground screw of my Victron 100/30 smart controller (the same one as in your tutorial)? And if so, where? The Coaster runs on a 24V system for the engine and lights etc, and my solar array is 12V, (one 350 W panel, into a 400 Amp hour AGM lead acid battery bank) so I thought a 'chassis ground' (being 24V) would be out of the question. Any clues? Is it necessary? Or can I get by without the 'ground' connection? I heard you say that many campers are not grounded. It all looks so straightforward (in your vid, which is well shot and cut, right down to the rolling of the dice/screws, chuckle, in the previous vid) but I don't want to make a costly cockup by not wiring the 'ground' of my Victron in somewhere, if it really should be done.
Great explanation I have a victron 100/50 and 2 x350w solar panels, but only 1 on my caravan roof so far, the max watts it has gone to is only 190watts which I thought it would have been more, so I am going to put the second panel up is the victron big enough? and over 5 meters what size cable do I run to the controller from the panels, as the controller might not fit the diameter of the cable that is needed as I thought the controller handles 600 watts? thanks Wes
Hey, Wesley Blake! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array: ua-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/v-deo.html Alternatively, I have some of my most common solar array setups pre-built here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Is there any reason not to connect the equipment ground wire to the center stud on the negative bus bar like you did in this video if you're also connecting the equipment ground of the multiplus to that same center stud? Or is it better to go from the charge controller to the multiplus then to the center stud on the bus bar like you do in the wiring diagram, which you noted around 3:50 in the video. I ask because I have the charge controller right next to the Lynx just like you do in the video, so it would be a much shorter wire vs. going all the way to the multiplus first. Hopefully that made sense. Thanks!
Why do you feel that way? 60A fuse on a 30A charger that is wired with 105 degree rated 6 AWG wire rated to ~120 amps. Search: "How many Amps can Wire Handle - EXPLORIST.life"
nice video thanks! I have a question if you can help please, mega fuse minimum size is 60A i think, and 35-40 A recommended after the MPPT 30, do you provide appropriate fuse? Best thanks. Philippe
Sure! Here is a video that teaches you how to size wire: ua-cam.com/video/ki3WXVR48eM/v-deo.html For these charge controllers, though... just use the biggest size that will fit. That info can be found in the product data sheets.
Your videos are amazing. Thanks. How can I charge both my Lithium Ion house batteries AND my under the hood Lead Avid Battery with the same solar Panel. My RV sits most of the time, and when I use it, I have a much lower power draw than what your builds show (I still use propane to power the fridge, heater, hot water heater, and stove top.) So I have quite bit of excess Solar. Thanks
The 'proper' way to do it would be to use two separate arrays. Build a big and proper solar array for the house battery bank and then get a little 20W or so panel and dedicated charge controller for the starter battery. The starter battery doesn't need much to keep it topped off.
First of all I want to say you are the "go to guy" when it comes to solar systems and installing them. I love what you do and all the details you put into your videos. When anyone asks me about solar I send them to you. I have one question though, with your attention to detail, I'm wondering why you don't also insure your ground wire is NEC code compliant and in color or bare and not black. Here's the article in part;
Will the controller work with out the ground to the distributer ? I cant figure out why my solar is not charging the batterys and after looking that is the only wire missing,,
We have to go against manufacturers recommendations here since a 40A fuse is an 'in-between' fuse size and is not available as a simple inline ATC fuse nor a MEGA fuse for the Lynx Distributor. Since we are using 6 AWG Wire rated for 120A; we have to round up a bit to the next available fuse size from the manufacturers recommendation. You can shop our charge controller wiring kits here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charge-controller-wiring-kits/
6 AWG for this particular charge controller; but wire sizes for various charge controllers can be found near the bottom of this blog post: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit/
Great videos, thank you Nate. One question for you. Do you think its possible to use my Victron smartsolar mppt 100/30, both as a solar charger and also as a dc-to-dc charger, from my alternator? thanks again!
For sure! The solar wire will always be 10AWG for the ways I design solar arrays. The Battery side will be either 2ga, 6ga, or 10ga depending on the size of the charge controller. These should help: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks! Most of these kits seem to have the panels ran in series rather than parallel. Why do you recommend that besides lower amps? I’ve heard parallel is preferable for van solar. Thanks again!!
Nate, that's the way I originally had the Victron SmartSolar 100/15 connected but couldn't find a MEGA fuse small enough to protect the 10awg wires. Can you recommend the proper size fuse that will fit the Lynx terminal?
Hay Nate, when using mega fuses in the Lynx Distributor, how do I figure the size for my charge controller? I am using a GP-MPPT-PRO-60. I noted that you were using a 60 amp with the 100/30 controller. The Go Power is 150/60.
I have a question, I've had a victron 100/20 that recently purchased about a month ago. It was still connected to the battery and pv array. So I added more solar panels without discounting, the charge controller. Now the controller does not turn on and the fuse on the controller is still good. Do you think the solar panels could have shorted it out?
question from a solar newbie. I have a 17ft fiberglass sailboat 200watt solar panel 24v LiFePo4 60ah and Victron 100v 20amp charge controller, running my 24v trolling motor where do I run my ground to on a fiberglass boat? thankyou
I don't recommend using the 'load' terminals in 99% of cases. I just recommend powering the 12V fuse block from the Lynx Distributor and omitting the load terminals. I also don't have a good use for the Street Light function in a camper; but the user manual shows you how to connect this.
Great video thank you! I may be wrong but the way this wiring diagram is laid out if you turn off the main battery disconnect switch the solar panels and charge controller would be disconnected from the battery. My charge controller says that it should never be disconnected from the battery before disconnecting solar panels. It seems like it would be better to run the charge controller battery wires directly to the battery (on the battery side of the switch). That way you could never accidentally disconnect the charge controller from the battery with the PV still hooked up.
There is a disconnect for the solar array so that it can be disconnected first and the Victron charge controllers won't be damaged if the battery gets turned off first. Its not best practice... but they will be fine.
this is the same question i have now trying to come up with a game plan for my tacoma camper build.. On boats they typically have solar charge controllers on “unswitched” distribution like you say so they can turn off house battery loads and still charge the battery bank. Typically anything on the charging side is unswitched and AC and DC loads are all switched. i have a Lynx bus bar but im probably gonna end up working the solar charge controller to a separate unswitched bus bar coming right off the battery. This will also be handy if i want to say charge with 120v AC from mains so i dont have to switch the battery to ON everytime.. Most likely will also have my enclosure fans run off this unswitched distribution as well.
Hmm depending who you're watching everybody hooks the stuff up differently some don't even use a bus bar they just go directly from the controller to the battery Bank inverter to the battery Bank
Just a lot of confusion just no consistency from one video to the next. I looked on your parts list I don't see a buzz bar listed do you have a link for that
There is indeed 100 different ways to do this stuff, but I’m always going to show the way I feel MOST correct. If you find a different way to do things, that’s fine, but you’ll need to do your own due diligence with that. Fused busbar: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/victron-lynx-distributor/?srsltid=AfmBOooniK_TQwc9nG1HtD6xPurgXawcMn9djCacRX8Dos6lmTgMUqFK
What exactly is a lynx distribution and why do I need it? I'm currently installing two 100 wat renogy panels to 4 AGM 12v batteries and then tie into the RV's fuse panel.
I am on a quest to find the torque specs when using ferrules. Most of the equipment that I am using has the torque specs for wire with large strands. But, I have not yet found the torque specs when using ferrules and fine stranded wire. Is there any kind of rule of thumb for tightening connections using ferrules?
Nate, great videos! In trying to figure out a size of charge controller , The calculators ask for Temp Coefficient of Pmax and temp Coefficient of VOC, but my solar panel does not show these. It's a Traina Solar systems TSM-230PA05. Peak Power 230W., PTC rating 208.9, Max power voltage 30 VMP, Max Current 7.78A, Open Circuit Voltage 37.0 VOC, Cell temp 77F, Normal Operating cell temp 116.6 F and max system V is 600 VDC . This is the info on my panel. Without the other two numbers for P Max and temp VOC I can't complete the calculators. Any help would be great understanding what size charge controller to go with would be great. Thanks!
You are the best, I would pay a decent amount of money for a series like this and you are providing it all for free. What a Legend, keep it up !
As an engineer and ex-teacher, I find your VDOs one of the best in YT. You gave clear and precise lessons that are so easy to understand, an example for other UA-camr to take note. Congratulations.
Great to hear!
THE best tutorial for wiring DC electrics. Super easy to follow, just what you need to do AND WHY. The visuals are beautifully set out. Pitch perfect in every way. Thank You.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
is there a reason the mppt ground is connected via the multiplus/inverter first? can I ground my mppt and multiplus both directly to the lynx?
My electrical diy efforts would have taken much longer and been far less effective without your help. Thanks for making such useful content.
Absolutely love that you go literally step by step for each and every connection. Makes it so easy to follow. Thank you!
Yup, I would much rather have too much information then not enough. I've seen so many project videos on youtube where the presenter assumes you have a bunch of info you might not have.
Absolutely brilliant instructional video. The detail in which you use is unmatched. Thanks again for doing such a detailed instructional video.
. What size wire did you use out of the controller into the lynx
What size fuses did you use
Are in the lynx distributor
Now this is how a DYI video should be done .. step by step perfect!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Your descriptive clarity separates you from the rest! Thank you, from across the pond.
Hey great great instructions, i have a rudimentary question. When i physically push the positive wire on the battery terminal into the Victron controller, the solar wattage coming in increases by up to 50%. I have reconnected, tightened, fiddled with this connection point but am alway left with the fact that if i apply pressure on the wire into the terminal, my solar power changes. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
I have experienced this same exact thing! When I pinch pressure on the wire running from my positive lead into the Victron my incoming wattage jumps up. Did you find anything regarding this?
I just fried both my solar chargers by not disconnecting the solar panels when I disconnected the battery and reconnected them. Apparently you should NEVER have the solar panels connected while battery is disconnected and reconnect the battery. Sounds like you are connecting the panel first, and then the battery... Maybe that works on Victron but on other brands that will fry our solar charger.
Every individual step verbalized and demonstrated: Excellent and Instructional. Thank you. I will trust your information.
I was just going to say. He is a very good teacher and has great content on his channel.
Thanks! I appreciate that. :)
Nate your videos are an excellent resource and exceptionally well done. Ferrules have changed my life....Thank you!
Hi Guys and thanks 4 a really great post that has finally helped me understand why that box is so important and in relation to the CC and SPs. I absolutely could not have done my electrical/solar without your channel. I’m a 56 year old solo nomad and your videos are really “THE BEST” content out there about this solar installation, the safe and quality way. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Very clean installation. Thanks for sharing your comprehensive knowledge and information.
Hey brother,you a best teacher ,your video on solar disconnect is good,I interested in hooking batteries in series and parallel also POV in series and parallel
Thank you for all the knowledge you share! really appreciated! I've been wanting to build my own camper for a while and your videos give me so much more confidence!
Regarding Wire lengths, is it best practice to keep the +ve & -ve wires the same length for each section in the build? or is that only useful in the connection from the Battery Bank to Inverter/charger?
Great video and so nice to see the lynx system being mentioned. a standalone video on the lynx would be handy for everybody. namely how the extra cost and fancy pcb are worthless without the VERY expensive lynx shunt so adding megafuse's to the 'power-in' lynx box and it does the same job albeit without the fuse blown LED's which wont work without the shunt anyway.....
i used a 'power-in' as a fused busbar and it is great and so tidy!!
Ya, I have one and It's strangely handsome.
I messed around with some other brands when I was still learning and then I just purchased Victron. It is so robust and easy to use. It is the standard. PERIOD.
I really enjoy his videos, well-spoken and on details of all steps 😊
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
What are you now using for backer board?
Thanks 🇬🇧 thanks 🙏 without your Vlogs I would have struggled, keep up the good work, 🙏
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Shouldnt the tooth washer be between chasis and lug rather than between the springwasher and lug?
Is that 6awg from the distributor/battery to the mppt and 10awg from the mppt to the disconnect/solar array?
In this video, indeed it is!
@@EXPLORISTlife cool, thanks for the follow up!
So I can wire my charge controller to my blue seas 12 circuit fuse box then? Also why does the charge controller have two grounds?
I really like the way you teach.
Good job, doing what a common person would want to learn and know. You are just a baby Einstein!
Super solid, you couldn't have done anything here more perfectly so don't change anything in your methods 👌👌
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Another awesome video! You may be convincing me to go Victron🤔. I did my solar disconnect from your last video yesterday and it was easy ! Thank you!
After seeing so many similar setups, I have a concern about the charge controller. Would a blown battery fuse cause damage to the charge controller? My mppt controller says to never connect solar before batteries, so a blown fuse would create this scenario. Is there a way to protect agaist this?
Victron charge controllers are rarely damaged when disconnected from battery power before solar. It can happen, but they are robust enough that it's very rare. I can't speak for all brands of charge controllers, though.
Most likely it will go fine as long as the solar cherger is booted up and not dead and then suddenly connected to battery while getting full blast from the solar panels at same time... I just fried both my 2 solar chargers that is always connected to panels by flipping the switch connecting them to the battery while they was dead and not booted up...
Thank you so much, concise exact and very clear for DIY project
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Any plans on doing an Orion TR smart
I remember you became an ambassador for Victron Energy awhile back, and I have two questions..
Which of your designs would be applicable for use in a 800-1000 sqft off-grid home? And or, do you have the name of someone within Victron that could provide design support?
So clear and direct- awesome video Nate.
Hey Nate Your videos are super informative and helpful. Thanks! I'm connecting a Victron MPPT Solar Controller 75 / 15 to portable solar panels (4 panels with 200 Watts) and my Battle Born lithium battery. The panels came with Anderson plus using 8 AWG wire and I cant "cleanly" fit the wire into the small opening on the controller so I want to use ferrules like you do. Can you tell me where to buy just a handful of that size? I see they're available on-line from a variety of sources but I don't need100++.
I'd also be curious where you'd recommend attaching an Anderson plug to the outside of an RV (ours is a Ford E350 4X4) to give easy access and still protect it from the elements. Thanks
Your videos are great. I put together a small system that appears to function well. However I've encountered an issue that I have never seen mentioned in any ones videos. Most of my power tools, razor, blender some medical devices and rechargeable lighting does not appear to be usable! Standard 120v appliances do work fine. The problem is after a complete reading of the owners manual for my 1000w pure sine wave inverter I learned electrical devices using NiCad batteries will probably be damaged by the typical simple solar system.. So now that my rv has a basic solar system the only thing I can do with it is charge my phone.
They probably have high startup currents which the inverter can't provide
Confirm the 100 | 30 doesn’t use one of those little green connector plugs like I see on the dc to dc chargers? I didn’t get a green plug in my box . Hoping I didn’t throw it out if it came with it. Didn’t see it here. 💪🏼
What size mega fuse would you use for the 100 30 please? Also what size cable in mm? Many thanks 🙏
I have the same MPPT controller aboard my yacht, but having just wanted your video notice that I have not run a negative wire from the side screw back to the negative bus. Is it critical to do so?
Will this device allow alternator charging of a lifepo4 house battery? Plug vans starter battery into the box then the house battery into the box?
So I have a set up using this MPPT, which while the system is off, is still pulling in a charge and therefore sends the Inverter into a Fault. We think maybe it's the Lynx Distributor that is malfunctioning... Once we turn the system on, we get a BMS disconnect Error (the solar can't find the BMS when the system is Off)... The rep where we bought it is not able to diagnose further. I'm hoping you've seen this error before and can help us.
Nate, appreciate your videos and wiring plans. I have a question about a solar isolator vs a battery switch. Apparently he isolator switch disconnects both + & - of the solar panel, while a battery switch disconnects only the +., but it still shuts off the current. The isolator is rather bulky compared to a battery switch. Why not use a battery switch instead?
Hi, i have a question, i'm about to build a portable Victron station, in a box, ( hopefully a proper job, not a Blueankerflow) so a question about the ground, at 03:53, your diagram shows a connection to chassis ground, however i won't have a ground in my box build, so can i use the battery positive as chasis ground. Kit will probably be, Lifepo4, Lynx distributor, multiplus 12/1600, 100/50 mppt, shunt, BMS etc. Thanks.
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I would like to ask you and perhaps others hear about Ferrells,,,I have a 100/50 Victron smart charge controller one thing I have noticed is the wires Solar and Battery and Battery out etc. will pull out of their little wire sockets rather easily I’ve got them pretty good right now however I don’t have the upmost faith in them. I have seen you and others use ferrules for these charge controllers and I have heard others cry wolf and say not to use them,,,have you had good luck using ferrules??? I want a better way of securing my wires in the charge controller. please and thank you to everyone,,,by the way you make an excellent video here.👍
In an off grid cabin set up would the ground terminal that you did first be connected to a rod hammered into the ground?
Could you please tell what size of mega fuse you need for this?
The fuse you put in was a 60 amp ??
Fuse size depends on component used. I think you'll find the component kits found at shop.explorist.life helpful
Should a breaker (overcurrent protection) be used anywhere in the chain before the mppt?
Great speaker, exelent in fact.
Very thorough, very professional.
I want a 12v system for my mobile off grid system with LifePo batteries.
Where can l find you?
Great instruction, really precise and clear only I'm not using a lynx distributor so am I connecting it to my normal negative on my bus bar or fuse box negative??
Is a lynx distributor ever used for a home system or a grid-tie system?
Thanks for all the great info on your UA-cam channel. I have been looking for a 30amp mega fuse for the Victron lynx as they recommended for 100/30 dc to dv changer and 100/30 solar changer then I read your parts list and you used a 60amp fuse. Just trying to find the right info. Thanks
hi did you have the right info now? i still asking me same question.. best thanks
What is the answer? MpPT 100/50 = 50 amp fuse ?
Do you have a video for those of us using the smart shunt rather than the distro box?
Those two devices should be used in conjunction.
I don’t understand. I thought they did the same thing as far as shunt, but the lynx has the positive side whereas the smart shunt does not. Am I missing something?
The SmartShunt is a monitoring device. The Lynx Distributor is a power distribution device. I think this may help: ua-cam.com/play/PLmvhcyi4n0TUU8FUc6LE38TBkdSLjdw_5.html
I understand now. I’m installing in my class A and was planning to use my existing fuses instead of the lynx but after studying your drawings and videos I like the idea of using it. (Ordered from your site this morning) Thanks!
Thnak you this will help me massively on my final install
I have 200w on the top of my caravan and If my controller is big enough spec wise could I add a second panel in parallel? I’d like to run a wire straight from the controller to a plug so I can add a further panel on the ground when I’m away for longer periods, but wouldn’t use it all the time, just have it as plug and play.
Great video. What are you using for substrate under the controller. Manual says non-flammable. Thanks
3/4" Plywood laminated with Coin Grip flooring is a good way to do it.
Oddly satisfying repetition like a dis book or meditation😘. Thank you! I’m making a cabinet for in my truck cab so all this is very useful!
Kid’s book. Sorry didn’t catch that typo.
Hey, I always hear about attaching to backer board, but specifically what kind? What is a good thickness and what type? I have a Renogy charger/inverter that is really quite heavy and nervous about mounting it. Thanks in advance
All of our wiring kits include screws for 3/4" Ply. I'd be concerned for anything thinner, specifically for inverter/chargers. Just a charge controller would probably be fine with 1/2", but I always use 3/4".
Hi thank you for your videos. I have a question. I have 2 48 volts batteries in series to make 96 volts and I have 2 victron. solar charger 48 volts can I wire them in series to get 96 volts and I only have 1 solar panel 400 watts. Thank you
Do you have a cerbo in this installation? I just added one and I can't seems to get the solar values displayed on the screen. Thanks in advance
So far nobody has said if you wire in series and have a positive and negative wire left. Does the positive wire left go into the positive hole of the charge controller etc or do you put them in like you did when you connected them in series. Positive in the negative and negative into positive holes of the charge controller.
YT search "EXPLORIST.life how to wire solar panels in series"
What size/gauge wire are you using for this?
You need to go on his wire sizing guide by entering amp and wire length run to find that out
Wish you added a shopping list for everything used in the description....
Its the first link in the description.
Love your videos!! Could tell us why you “can” or “can not” connect 5 (all matching) panels in this configuration - 2 x 2 in series, with the 5th in parallel with the 2 series tied given a MPPT controller that will easily handle, amps/voltage of any configuration with these five panels. Say 5, 100 watt Renogy panels, and Victron 100/50 charge controller. NEED TO KNOW THE GROUND TRUTH! THANKS!!!
Nope. Here's why: www.explorist.life/using-mismatched-solar-panel-sizes/
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you and hopefully I’ll make sense of it...
Amazing set of videos for wiring campervan solar, slowly starting to to feel that this isn't just doable, it might even be fun! One question though, what is the reason you wire the MPPT Battery Output to the Lynx Distributor instead of going direct to the battery? In my mind, it would save an extra outlet from the distributor, for the cost of some extra lenght of wiring.
What kind of ground do I need for my solar/rv system? I have my system laid out pretty much identical to the "Argosy Project". I have a 400ah battery bank, Multiplus 12/3000, Lynx Distributor, and 2 MPPT controllers. If I run my ground wire from my charge controllers, to my Multiplus, to my distributor, to a chassis ground is that all that is needed? Do I need to ground my solar panel frames? I have all my AC outlets wired up with a ground wire to the ground bus bar in my WFCO distribution panel. I also have my shore power connection running through a Hughes smart surge protector.
In classic physics, the earth of supposed to get rid of extra current that somehow gets out of the electrical wires and to a given system body like a metallic cover.
So I'm wondering why you connected with the earth and negative/neutral together?
Even in houses, the earth/ground has a special connection that is actually going to the ground via a copper rod. And that is not mixed with negative.
Is it the is a difference between AC ans DC current?
Hi Nate, Great video... thankyou. I have a Victron Smartsolar MPPT 100/50. In the installation manual section 4.4, it states that the chassis grounding is for 30A model only. There is a chassis ground point provided on my MPPT 100/50. Should I ground my MPPT 100/50? Thanks
Yep!
In my Toyota Coaster motorhome, do I need to wire in the ground screw of my Victron 100/30 smart controller (the same one as in your tutorial)? And if so, where? The Coaster runs on a 24V system for the engine and lights etc, and my solar array is 12V, (one 350 W panel, into a 400 Amp hour AGM lead acid battery bank) so I thought a 'chassis ground' (being 24V) would be out of the question. Any clues? Is it necessary? Or can I get by without the 'ground' connection? I heard you say that many campers are not grounded.
It all looks so straightforward (in your vid, which is well shot and cut, right down to the rolling of the dice/screws, chuckle, in the previous vid) but I don't want to make a costly cockup by not wiring the 'ground' of my Victron in somewhere, if it really should be done.
Great explanation I have a victron 100/50 and 2 x350w solar panels, but only 1 on my caravan roof so far, the max watts it has gone to is only 190watts which I thought it would have been more, so I am going to put the second panel up is the victron big enough? and over 5 meters what size cable do I run to the controller from the panels, as the controller might not fit the diameter of the cable that is needed as I thought the controller handles 600 watts? thanks Wes
Hey, Wesley Blake! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array: ua-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/v-deo.html
Alternatively, I have some of my most common solar array setups pre-built here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Is there any reason not to connect the equipment ground wire to the center stud on the negative bus bar like you did in this video if you're also connecting the equipment ground of the multiplus to that same center stud? Or is it better to go from the charge controller to the multiplus then to the center stud on the bus bar like you do in the wiring diagram, which you noted around 3:50 in the video. I ask because I have the charge controller right next to the Lynx just like you do in the video, so it would be a much shorter wire vs. going all the way to the multiplus first. Hopefully that made sense. Thanks!
Electrically, that's fine. It just won't fit, though.
Was that a 60A Mega fuse? Is that sufficient to protect the system? It seems way oversized?
Why do you feel that way? 60A fuse on a 30A charger that is wired with 105 degree rated 6 AWG wire rated to ~120 amps.
Search: "How many Amps can Wire Handle - EXPLORIST.life"
@@EXPLORISTlife is the fuse always to strictly protect the wire only, or should it also provide some protection to the device?
nice video thanks! I have a question if you can help please, mega fuse minimum size is 60A i think, and 35-40 A recommended after the MPPT 30, do you provide appropriate fuse? Best thanks. Philippe
Great video! Can the SmartSolar charter controller (MPPT 100 | 39) be use to charge 2 24V Dakota Lithium batteries at the same time?
Can you do a video about sizing wire from the battery bank to the charger?
Sure! Here is a video that teaches you how to size wire: ua-cam.com/video/ki3WXVR48eM/v-deo.html
For these charge controllers, though... just use the biggest size that will fit. That info can be found in the product data sheets.
Your videos are amazing. Thanks. How can I charge both my Lithium Ion house batteries AND my under the hood Lead Avid Battery with the same solar Panel. My RV sits most of the time, and when I use it, I have a much lower power draw than what your builds show (I still use propane to power the fridge, heater, hot water heater, and stove top.) So I have quite bit of excess Solar. Thanks
The 'proper' way to do it would be to use two separate arrays. Build a big and proper solar array for the house battery bank and then get a little 20W or so panel and dedicated charge controller for the starter battery. The starter battery doesn't need much to keep it topped off.
First of all I want to say you are the "go to guy" when it comes to solar systems and installing them. I love what you do and all the details you put into your videos. When anyone asks me about solar I send them to you. I have one question though, with your attention to detail, I'm wondering why you don't also insure your ground wire is NEC code compliant and in color or bare and not black. Here's the article in part;
Will the controller work with out the ground to the distributer ? I cant figure out why my solar is not charging the batterys and after looking that is the only wire missing,,
Is it okay to use a 60A fuse as you have even-though the manual says maximum battery fuse rating of 40A for the 100/30 MPPT
We have to go against manufacturers recommendations here since a 40A fuse is an 'in-between' fuse size and is not available as a simple inline ATC fuse nor a MEGA fuse for the Lynx Distributor. Since we are using 6 AWG Wire rated for 120A; we have to round up a bit to the next available fuse size from the manufacturers recommendation. You can shop our charge controller wiring kits here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charge-controller-wiring-kits/
Great video what gauge wire did you use from controller to battery please
6 AWG for this particular charge controller; but wire sizes for various charge controllers can be found near the bottom of this blog post: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit/
can you connect the positive and negative directly to the battery bank?
Yes as long as proper fusing and shunt placement is used. Using a Lynx Distributor is the easiest and cleanest way to accomplish this.
Great videos, thank you Nate. One question for you. Do you think its possible to use my Victron smartsolar mppt 100/30, both as a solar charger and also as a dc-to-dc charger, from my alternator? thanks again!
It would be super helpful if you said what wire gauges you were using for each run too!!
For sure! The solar wire will always be 10AWG for the ways I design solar arrays. The Battery side will be either 2ga, 6ga, or 10ga depending on the size of the charge controller. These should help: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks! Most of these kits seem to have the panels ran in series rather than parallel. Why do you recommend that besides lower amps? I’ve heard parallel is preferable for van solar. Thanks again!!
What do you use for a backer board?
3/4" ply w/ rubber flooring laminated to it.
are those Ferrules round or square before you crimp them?
Round.
Nate, that's the way I originally had the Victron SmartSolar 100/15 connected but couldn't find a MEGA fuse small enough to protect the 10awg wires. Can you recommend the proper size fuse that will fit the Lynx terminal?
Hay Nate, when using mega fuses in the Lynx Distributor, how do I figure the size for my charge controller? I am using a GP-MPPT-PRO-60. I noted that you were using a 60 amp with the 100/30 controller. The Go Power is 150/60.
Sure! This video will teach you how to size fuses: ua-cam.com/video/5y-yDMEgV70/v-deo.html
I have a question, I've had a victron 100/20 that recently purchased about a month ago. It was still connected to the battery and pv array. So I added more solar panels without discounting, the charge controller. Now the controller does not turn on and the fuse on the controller is still good. Do you think the solar panels could have shorted it out?
question from a solar newbie.
I have a 17ft fiberglass sailboat 200watt solar panel 24v LiFePo4 60ah and Victron 100v 20amp charge controller, running my 24v trolling motor where do I run my ground to on a fiberglass boat? thankyou
Thank you so much! These videos are very informative and easy to understand! Totally helped understand what I'm doing!
Where do you connect your load with this controller? Could you make a video with The full connection and The Street Light function working? Thx! 🙂
I don't recommend using the 'load' terminals in 99% of cases. I just recommend powering the 12V fuse block from the Lynx Distributor and omitting the load terminals. I also don't have a good use for the Street Light function in a camper; but the user manual shows you how to connect this.
Great video thank you! I may be wrong but the way this wiring diagram is laid out if you turn off the main battery disconnect switch the solar panels and charge controller would be disconnected from the battery. My charge controller says that it should never be disconnected from the battery before disconnecting solar panels. It seems like it would be better to run the charge controller battery wires directly to the battery (on the battery side of the switch). That way you could never accidentally disconnect the charge controller from the battery with the PV still hooked up.
There is a disconnect for the solar array so that it can be disconnected first and the Victron charge controllers won't be damaged if the battery gets turned off first. Its not best practice... but they will be fine.
this is the same question i have now trying to come up with a game plan for my tacoma camper build.. On boats they typically have solar charge controllers on “unswitched” distribution like you say so they can turn off house battery loads and still charge the battery bank. Typically anything on the charging side is unswitched and AC and DC loads are all switched. i have a Lynx bus bar but im probably gonna end up working the solar charge controller to a separate unswitched bus bar coming right off the battery. This will also be handy if i want to say charge with 120v AC from mains so i dont have to switch the battery to ON everytime.. Most likely will also have my enclosure fans run off this unswitched distribution as well.
I don't have buzz bar can I just connect inverter and controler to battery bank and solar panels with some inline fuses?
Why not get a busbar/lynx distributor so you can follow along and do it properly?
Hmm depending who you're watching everybody hooks the stuff up differently some don't even use a bus bar they just go directly from the controller to the battery Bank inverter to the battery Bank
Just a lot of confusion just no consistency from one video to the next.
I looked on your parts list I don't see a buzz bar listed do you have a link for that
Thank you.
There is indeed 100 different ways to do this stuff, but I’m always going to show the way I feel MOST correct.
If you find a different way to do things, that’s fine, but you’ll need to do your own due diligence with that.
Fused busbar: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/victron-lynx-distributor/?srsltid=AfmBOooniK_TQwc9nG1HtD6xPurgXawcMn9djCacRX8Dos6lmTgMUqFK
What size Ferules did you use? I have a 100/20 and can't find anything to fit it.
What exactly is a lynx distribution and why do I need it? I'm currently installing two 100 wat renogy panels to 4 AGM 12v batteries and then tie into the RV's fuse panel.
Where is the best place to buy victors products?
I am on a quest to find the torque specs when using ferrules. Most of the equipment that I am using has the torque specs for wire with large strands. But, I have not yet found the torque specs when using ferrules and fine stranded wire. Is there any kind of rule of thumb for tightening connections using ferrules?
The torque spec doesn't change from ferrule to not unless otherwise specified.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you. I am worried about breaking the place where the connection is by over tightening.
Understood. We are happy to install for you to put your mind at ease: shop.explorist.life/about-our-services/
Does anything have to be grounded (attached) to the actual van itself? I hear conflicting information
Hello Katrina where are you from?
Great video and explanation, thanks
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
What's the difference between the Lynx power in 1000 and Lynx distributor 1000 DC? Thanks
Nate, great videos! In trying to figure out a size of charge controller , The calculators ask for Temp Coefficient of Pmax and temp Coefficient of VOC, but my solar panel does not show these. It's a Traina Solar systems TSM-230PA05. Peak Power 230W., PTC rating 208.9, Max power voltage 30 VMP, Max Current 7.78A, Open Circuit Voltage 37.0 VOC, Cell temp 77F, Normal Operating cell temp 116.6 F and max system V is 600 VDC . This is the info on my panel. Without the other two numbers for P Max and temp VOC I can't complete the calculators. Any help would be great understanding what size charge controller to go with would be great. Thanks!