I have become a B&W photographer for two reasons 1) get back to my roots (started with B&W film and darkroom) and 2) I don't really like were many photographers are going with color (extreme depth of field, extreme dynamic range, etc.) and I am looking for something to help set me apart from the masses. I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Take care
Well explained. There are of course ' mono ' sensors available for Leicas, but the most use of mono sensors are actually in special cameras for what is called Narrow Band long Exposure Deep Space Imaging. These sensors are peltier cooled to -20 C~ -30C to reduce the thermal noise generated by the sensor during long hours of imaging. There is also another way of obtaining a mono image from a DSLR and that is by removing the colour filter array ( CFA ) or the Bayer Matrix as its widely known. This is a specialised procedure and those who have carried it out at home have succeeded in destroying quite a lot of expensive DSLRs, but it is doable. I have carried this procedure on two of my old Canon 350ds ( I was nervous wreck by the end of it and never again ), and presently I have a Nikon 5100 that has had its CFA removed. I occasionally use it for 'creative' full spectrum BW photography ( I no longer do deep space imaging, sadly ) . The removal of the CFA also means the removal what is known as the Micro Lensing layer which concentrates the light on to the photosites. So, what is gained in sensitivity in removing the IR, AA, and the CFA filters, is somewhat lost due to the removal of microlensing. BTW, I do not recommend a DIY job of removing the CFA under any circumstances. You are most likely to destroy the sensor and the camera with it.
Awesome! Can't wait to see what you come up with in IR. One suggestion, you can get some really good effects with a polarizer in IR. I have found that most of the photos I like the best from IR will be wide angle and include interesting sky's. Also anything with water. I've tried doing the R/B red/blue color swap and other effects but I just don't care for the look. I much prefer a B&W look with IR. Plus you don't have to worry about the dreaded hot spot if you shoot in B&W. For sure you are going to have a lot of new things to learn.
I shoot 80% B&W and 20% color. Nine times out of ten, B&W images are more interesting to me. It becomes more about shape, form, lighting, texture, etc... The color greats like Saul Leiter, Eggleston, Ernst Hass, Fred Herzog, etc... all had something very specific to say with their use of color. Unlike modern weenies, who as you mention, use color because it is "The Default."
Adrian, do you ever shoot raw + jpeg? I'm curious if you're editing ALL your images, the 'keepers' for your portfolio/prints AND the ones that are just for sharing on social media. Or do you ever post jpgs out of camera? I always shoot raw+jpeg, mostly because I tend to mix in family shooting with hobby shooting. I edit almost all of my hobby work, but spend way more time on stuff I intend to print. The Fuji XT-3 and XT-4 have really good controls for custom film simulations (a bit like what you were wishing Sony had) and you can do a lot to reproduce a given 'look' in camera. I've started playing with these settings trying to find a balance between an in-camera style I like that I can rely on for social posing, and still edit my better raw images for portfolio or printing.
I don't, only RAW. I do edit all my images, those that are part of my work, this is. When I shoot family, friends and other everyday stuff, I use jpeg only. I have a custom setting on my camera so it's easy to switch back and forth. I don't edit those jpegs. I love the film emulations on the Fuji cameras, my wife only shoots jpegs with hers because they look great out of the camera. I just like to have a little bit more of control, otherwise I'd be shooting jpeg as well.
@@aows Makes sense, and that's about what I do now. But I've noticed that my (non family) work splits along two lines, more important work that will go into a portfolio or get printed, and stuff I just want to share on IG or Twitter. I'm finding I give the social media-only stuff a pretty consistent base look that I can accomplish with some customization of the Fuji sim settings. So I'm basically putting that 'look' into the camera to edit on the fly. If you or your wife want to get creative with those Fuji settings, there are some great 'recipes' for custom looks here: fujixweekly.com/fujifilm-x-trans-iv-recipes/ I've modified a few of these for my own tastes and will probably tweak them a little more. The built in Fuji sims re great too, but you can really push those cameras to do a lot more if you do a little tweaking! Cheers.
Oh that looks awesome! To be honest, I don't know how much you can customize those film simulations on the X100T, that's the Fuji we got. But I will give it a try :) Thank you!
Before raw editing I gave up on B+W digital conversions because you always ended up with a lot of banding and other ugly artifacts after converting it. So jpeg conversions are no-go.
it would be great if you had a video on understanding how to edit with a tonal curve and what the point of adjusting things like brightness or contrast or highlights & shadows when I believe you can do it all on the tonal curve. I also shoot in b&w but also wrapping my head around this stuff..
B&W (over colour) shows definition far more than that of colour because it highlights shadows sharper and much more precisely. It also aids in enhancing character - especially in a persons face. NOTHING wrong with showing in colour but it doesn't come near the capabilities of showing the "Story" in a wrinkle on a man/woman's face of 90 years of age than that of the natural shadow casting of B&W film.
So well presented. You managed to describe exactly why I prefer to shoot black + white, both digital and film, in only 8:22.
I have become a B&W photographer for two reasons 1) get back to my roots (started with B&W film and darkroom) and 2) I don't really like were many photographers are going with color (extreme depth of field, extreme dynamic range, etc.) and I am looking for something to help set me apart from the masses. I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Take care
I have come full circle as well. Just purchased off EBay a F3 and a F100 both loaded with B&W film.
Cool I’m interested in your infrared experience coming soon
Great job!
A great video as always. Thanks for the tips on post processing.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. I've been trying to improve my bnw photography skills.
Loved this! I've been using my Ricoh GR III in high contrast mode almost exclusively as I try to view light differently.
Well explained. There are of course ' mono ' sensors available for Leicas, but the most use of mono sensors are actually in special cameras for what is called Narrow Band long Exposure Deep Space Imaging. These sensors are peltier cooled to -20 C~ -30C to reduce the thermal noise generated by the sensor during long hours of imaging. There is also another way of obtaining a mono image from a DSLR and that is by removing the colour filter array ( CFA ) or the Bayer Matrix as its widely known. This is a specialised procedure and those who have carried it out at home have succeeded in destroying quite a lot of expensive DSLRs, but it is doable. I have carried this procedure on two of my old Canon 350ds ( I was nervous wreck by the end of it and never again ), and presently I have a Nikon 5100 that has had its CFA removed. I occasionally use it for 'creative' full spectrum BW photography ( I no longer do deep space imaging, sadly ) . The removal of the CFA also means the removal what is known as the Micro Lensing layer which concentrates the light on to the photosites. So, what is gained in sensitivity in removing the IR, AA, and the CFA filters, is somewhat lost due to the removal of microlensing. BTW, I do not recommend a DIY job of removing the CFA under any circumstances. You are most likely to destroy the sensor and the camera with it.
Thanks for sharing your approach and methods !!!
Awesome! Can't wait to see what you come up with in IR. One suggestion, you can get some really good effects with a polarizer in IR. I have found that most of the photos I like the best from IR will be wide angle and include interesting sky's. Also anything with water.
I've tried doing the R/B red/blue color swap and other effects but I just don't care for the look. I much prefer a B&W look with IR. Plus you don't have to worry about the dreaded hot spot if you shoot in B&W.
For sure you are going to have a lot of new things to learn.
I shoot 80% B&W and 20% color. Nine times out of ten, B&W images are more interesting to me. It becomes more about shape, form, lighting, texture, etc... The color greats like Saul Leiter, Eggleston, Ernst Hass, Fred Herzog, etc... all had something very specific to say with their use of color. Unlike modern weenies, who as you mention, use color because it is "The Default."
Excelente video y muy emocionante tu fotografía!!! Y muchas gracias por permitir la traducción al español.
Black and white, when???? ALWAYS!! 😅 LOL. Black and white is always best.
Adrian, do you ever shoot raw + jpeg? I'm curious if you're editing ALL your images, the 'keepers' for your portfolio/prints AND the ones that are just for sharing on social media. Or do you ever post jpgs out of camera? I always shoot raw+jpeg, mostly because I tend to mix in family shooting with hobby shooting. I edit almost all of my hobby work, but spend way more time on stuff I intend to print. The Fuji XT-3 and XT-4 have really good controls for custom film simulations (a bit like what you were wishing Sony had) and you can do a lot to reproduce a given 'look' in camera. I've started playing with these settings trying to find a balance between an in-camera style I like that I can rely on for social posing, and still edit my better raw images for portfolio or printing.
I don't, only RAW. I do edit all my images, those that are part of my work, this is. When I shoot family, friends and other everyday stuff, I use jpeg only. I have a custom setting on my camera so it's easy to switch back and forth. I don't edit those jpegs. I love the film emulations on the Fuji cameras, my wife only shoots jpegs with hers because they look great out of the camera. I just like to have a little bit more of control, otherwise I'd be shooting jpeg as well.
@@aows Makes sense, and that's about what I do now. But I've noticed that my (non family) work splits along two lines, more important work that will go into a portfolio or get printed, and stuff I just want to share on IG or Twitter. I'm finding I give the social media-only stuff a pretty consistent base look that I can accomplish with some customization of the Fuji sim settings. So I'm basically putting that 'look' into the camera to edit on the fly. If you or your wife want to get creative with those Fuji settings, there are some great 'recipes' for custom looks here: fujixweekly.com/fujifilm-x-trans-iv-recipes/ I've modified a few of these for my own tastes and will probably tweak them a little more. The built in Fuji sims re great too, but you can really push those cameras to do a lot more if you do a little tweaking! Cheers.
Oh that looks awesome! To be honest, I don't know how much you can customize those film simulations on the X100T, that's the Fuji we got. But I will give it a try :) Thank you!
Before raw editing I gave up on B+W digital conversions because you always ended up with a lot of banding and other ugly artifacts after converting it. So jpeg conversions are no-go.
it would be great if you had a video on understanding how to edit with a tonal curve and what the point of adjusting things like brightness or contrast or highlights & shadows when I believe you can do it all on the tonal curve. I also shoot in b&w but also wrapping my head around this stuff..
100% with you there on b&w it does take years and its not that easy, its funny isn't it that colour is very important fir a black and white edit
B&W (over colour) shows definition far more than that of colour because it highlights shadows sharper and much more precisely. It also aids in enhancing character - especially in a persons face. NOTHING wrong with showing in colour but it doesn't come near the capabilities of showing the "Story" in a wrinkle on a man/woman's face of 90 years of age than that of the natural shadow casting of B&W film.
You should have shot this video in black and white as well.