I'd be sure to replace the timing chain, remaining guids and the oil pump. Just some simple insurance for the future. Very clean job, and great video. Can't wait for the next video!
I know this is already 4 years old, but I wanted to tell you and everyone else what sets this video apart. In most cases, you let us get a good look at the fasteners once they're removed. Some of us have had our engines apart for a couple of years, and need a little refresher course on which bolts go where. Thanks.
they put this same engine in the buick rainier. The manifold bolts were the hardest part of this. very bad angle, no room and two were already broken off before I started. These videos in full size trucks make the job look so much easier, lol
Dam im have that problem right now father got me the engine I needed for my truck an when I got home I noticed bolts broken in the exhaust manifold in the heads on both side at thr fat end by the wall I was like WTF POPS now I got to take them a shop to removed the bolts an got the heads worthless now
Thank you so much for doing this. It's the first time I'm doing this and I need all the help I can get. Few questions. When removing the big bolts on the cylinder heads, what was the sequence you used to remove them? What about the sequence on the little ones? If they got stuck, did you strike them? Do I have to change the ECU if I do the DOD delete? Right now it's looking like I'm going to replace everything back stock but new or remanufactured and then just put an OBDII disabler. This truck is going to be my little brother's daily driver but it can't have any check engine codes or he'll get in trouble with his army chain of command. Something about a POV inspection.
Looks like a lot of work I’m not sure I have time do to this with my 07 6.0, I was quoted with a lifter 7 failure 7200 worst case scenario once he gets all the way in. Now I’m driving a 2021🥶
excellent work and views now I see whats ahead of me on 2008 #4 is stuck and stays sticking so this guy here wants to replace one lifter might as well do one side. now that I see whats up hes already there Guess if they are ok no need but double work does not appeal to me. replace the ones that tend to collapse with other type to delete from happening now to find performance box to undo 4 and make 8 constantly..
Great video, I think I'll do this myself instead of taking it in, all thanks to this video! To do the DOD delete, is a new cam required, or can you just replace the lifters and call it good? Also, are the oil valley plugs required? If there's no oil passage in standard lifters, it seems like the oil will be blocked anyway...unless it will cause excessive pressure? Lastly, does the computer shut off fuel flow when it goes from a V8 to V4? If so, it seems like a DOD delete may need some software modifications too. Maybe avoiding the delete and just replacing the stock lifters is the best option for someone like me not trying to get fancy with it. Thanks in advance for the help.
I was going to do a delete but instead im currently just doing a top end rebuild and timing chain. You do need software and the dealer wont do it. Also a new cam is required when doing a delete. It really isnt necessary if you look at how many miles you get out of afm lifters.
It comes out around the same to do the delete with aftermarket cam, or go with original afm lifters and expect them to fail again at another 180k. You definitely don't need a dealer! If your lifters ain't broke yet.. someone with a computer and a tuning software can disable afm. It's not actually tuning your truck,.. more of a toggle on/off switch. I think its $80 and it'll save your afm lifters.
Thia video is great the only thing that would make it better would be if you told us what size the bolts youre taking off ended up being saves us from having to spend more time looking for the right socket or grabbing the wrong one and stripping a bolt cause you used one that fits but was not quite the right size
Yea, it's in my "ppv Tahoe " playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLDBTR9jvD3R2BZpZ68CPVV97AjBeZrObg.html After part 2 is installing valves and springs on the heads, then next is the first start and tuning..
I thought stuck lifters was caused by bad oil like taking too long between oil changes? I have a gmc 2007 5.3L and my lifter on cylinder 7 got stuck. I have them all out now and will replace all of them. What do you recommend to make sure my afm lifters dont do this again? Im gonna buy a new updated vlom as well. Thank you.
You would think that a ppv tahoe wouldn't have that 4 cylinder mode bs on it, I have a civilian 2014 tahoe with a 5.3 in it but the first thing I did to it after the dual exhaust was get a programmer and removed the active fuel management, my wife hated when it would shut 4 holes and run like a honda!!!!......you'd be surprised the difference a tune and exhaust makes on one of these pigs......thing was a turd when we drove it off the lot in 2013 brand new, 7 yrs later with 45k mi it runs better than any other ls tahoe around here. .......moral of the story is.......delete or tune out the displacement on demand, it's booboo.......I used a handheld hypertech tuner to get rid of mine for warranty purposes only, if it was out of warranty and we didn't live in gay ass comiefornia I definitely would have deleted it at the cam and went bigger while I was in there..........and the 3 arm puller your using for the harmonic balancer is the best one to use on these engines hands down......I have the very same one works like a charm!!!
Do you know why cylinder #6 look like this? Was there any oil going inside the cylinder? I have caprice ppv 6.0 and cylinder #6 misfiring with white smoke from the exhaust and oily spark plug I did a compression test and all cylinders above 150 Psi, there is no lifters knocking sound and by using mini camera cylinder #6 in my car looks exactly like the one in your engine. Could it be bad lifter? Even if there is no knocking sound?
If its your first time, it might look intimidating tearing into your engine like this, but 2nd time around you'll be a pro. These engines are easy to work on.
@@GTsPerformance I got an 05 PPV tahoe with the famous 5.3 " lifter tick ". Seeing this video made me feel more confident in doing the job on my own now.
I hope someone can help me with my question, but I want to remove the heads on my 6.0 and from what I hear, I have to make sure that cylinder one is all the way up to start removing rocker arms and heads. Is this true? I want to remove heads on my car so I I can swap out the lifter by myself.
So are you implying that you can simply delete the dod lifters and just use standard lifters? If so I’m totally doing that. Save myself the worry of the collapsable lifters failing again.
Is it possible to replace just one side? Because my stuck lifter was in cylinder 1 (driver side). I'm wondering why the manifold wont drop low enough to get the head bolts behind it. I know you replaced both sides but can this be done on just one side? And if so, how do I drop it low enough to get to the head bolts without damaging it?
Remove the head bolts under the manifold, then the manifold bolts. The reason the manifolds isn't going down lower is because the driver and passenger are connected as a Y. If you can't get the space, try removing the bolts on the passenger side manifold so the whole exhaust can lower all together. And yes, it is possible to replace only the broken lifter. After everything is all put together, I recommend having someone with a tuning software Disable the DOD system so your lifters only function as regular lifters, and not go into 4 cyl. mode.. since that is when they fail.
@@GTsPerformance Ok. And should I use a jack or a support of some sort underneath the manifold to to prevent it from dropping to the ground? I'd assume doing this would make it easier to lift back in place.
Great video. Did you change parts for any good reason? I've done this job on Asian cars and it seems like trucks are way easier. I'm curious if you could've done the head gasket job and stopped, right? I think you did extra stuff to upgrade things, right? Man this looks less stressful than a small prius engine where you have to remove everything
Very informative video looking to trouble shoot a ticking when I press the accelerator not so audible when on lower speeds have a p219a code dealer said it was the injectors any thoughts
@@20tea it was the injectors I changed all 8 but I was driving around with a p0300 for about a year and mess up the catalytic . I cleaned all 4 sensors and still p0420
The converter in bank 1, driver side cat, may be partially plugged. May have loose material in there that on occasion that may prevent proper flow. You should either get a new cat or just run without them. May notice hesitation at higher speeds.
@@20tea I took it for a hard run just now for a good hour . Getting the rpms up high. And when i came back to go home the check engine was gone let’s see for how long . This literally just happened tonight . Last time I had the p0420,p0300 p050 p0219 code I took the truck for a long drive did 75 aggressive driving and the 420,219 was gone
Would a 5.3 v8 vortec in a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado crew cab short bed 1500 LS that have the calash hydraulic roller lifters or just All regular lifters
The 05 didn't come with the collapsible lifters, so you'll have all regular hydraulic roller lifters. GM started adding the "displacement on demand" (DOD) lifters on the 07+ engines
So how hard or dangerous to screw something up is a lifter swap for someone not really a mechanic. Cylinder 7 is misfiring on mine and my ass is too broke to pay someone else. Have the tools and the will just not the knowledge.
@travisssss28 it helps! Since I'm removing the heads and the camshaft.. that leaves the crank free to rotate, so technically, it doesn't matter. But, the harmonic balancer doesn't have a woodruff key, so it makes it difficult to rotate 🤷🏻♂️ still doable
You may get by, but the lifters may eat into the cam lobes. If you already installed it and it's good, you may be fine. If you still notice issues, then you may also want a new cam.
I enjoy watching techs like you who know their stuff and maintain a well organized area. Well done.
I'd be sure to replace the timing chain, remaining guids and the oil pump. Just some simple insurance for the future. Very clean job, and great video. Can't wait for the next video!
I know this is already 4 years old, but I wanted to tell you and everyone else what sets this video apart.
In most cases, you let us get a good look at the fasteners once they're removed. Some of us have had our engines apart for a couple of years, and need a little refresher course on which bolts go where. Thanks.
With power tools you cant get that same feeling when something's stuck or braking off. Kind of shocked the manifold bolts came right out
All that dust makes me think Texas AZ NM no salt.
they put this same engine in the buick rainier. The manifold bolts were the hardest part of this. very bad angle, no room and two were already broken off before I started. These videos in full size trucks make the job look so much easier, lol
Dam im have that problem right now father got me the engine I needed for my truck an when I got home I noticed bolts broken in the exhaust manifold in the heads on both side at thr fat end by the wall I was like WTF POPS now I got to take them a shop to removed the bolts an got the heads worthless now
Great video and still relevant 4 years later as Chevy kept on using the AFM type systems
Very professional, knowlegeable and clean. NO POWER TOOLS! You are awesome Bro. God bless you. Kenny from Brooklyn. I wish I lived in Texas!
Nice job presenting the video. I appreciate your explanation on what you are doing and why without bad language.
Executed very well. Nice and organized. Your halfway there GT. Finally broke in the shop.
Your presenting, annunciations and instructions are very clear, good job dude!
Good shit bro! Every time I watch you’re videos working on you’re Vehicles I get pumped to work on mine lol
Thanks for taking the time to film and edit this!!👌💪👌
Thank you so much for doing this. It's the first time I'm doing this and I need all the help I can get. Few questions.
When removing the big bolts on the cylinder heads, what was the sequence you used to remove them?
What about the sequence on the little ones?
If they got stuck, did you strike them?
Do I have to change the ECU if I do the DOD delete?
Right now it's looking like I'm going to replace everything back stock but new or remanufactured and then just put an OBDII disabler. This truck is going to be my little brother's daily driver but it can't have any check engine codes or he'll get in trouble with his army chain of command. Something about a POV inspection.
I'm liking the new font in the beginning of the video. That tear down was amazing.
Your making it look easy.
0:52 they all have the boxing 🥊 bell 🔔 sound each and every time accidentally hit the water pump with a tool. Anyone noticed that?🧐
Yes haha, makes me feel like I'm in a new round with my truck
Love the part where ya dropped the wrench! Lol felt your pain. Great job!
Looks like a lot of work I’m not sure I have time do to this with my 07 6.0, I was quoted with a lifter 7 failure 7200 worst case scenario once he gets all the way in. Now I’m driving a 2021🥶
Thanks for taking your time and showing all the steps and explaining your process, great video.
No broken exhaust bolts? Nobody is that lucky! Good job.
😁 Haha, surprised myself also
Right 😱
Would you happen to know the torque specs for reassembly? Great video by the way!
4:12 is what always happens when I work on my Tahoe fml lol
excellent work and views now I see whats ahead of me on 2008 #4 is stuck and stays sticking
so this guy here wants to replace one lifter might as well do one side. now that I see whats up hes already there
Guess if they are ok no need but double work does not appeal to me. replace the ones that tend to collapse with other type to delete from happening now to find performance box to undo 4 and make 8 constantly..
Thanks so much I was wondering how the lifter worked and the difference
Thanks for this bro, my truck is making a weird racketing noise followed by chirping and I think it might be a broken pushrod.
very informative.that part is almost donebon my 88 chevy 454 dulley.Gracias😜.learning as i go.
Great video, I think I'll do this myself instead of taking it in, all thanks to this video!
To do the DOD delete, is a new cam required, or can you just replace the lifters and call it good?
Also, are the oil valley plugs required? If there's no oil passage in standard lifters, it seems like the oil will be blocked anyway...unless it will cause excessive pressure? Lastly, does the computer shut off fuel flow when it goes from a V8 to V4? If so, it seems like a DOD delete may need some software modifications too.
Maybe avoiding the delete and just replacing the stock lifters is the best option for someone like me not trying to get fancy with it.
Thanks in advance for the help.
I was going to do a delete but instead im currently just doing a top end rebuild and timing chain. You do need software and the dealer wont do it. Also a new cam is required when doing a delete. It really isnt necessary if you look at how many miles you get out of afm lifters.
It comes out around the same to do the delete with aftermarket cam, or go with original afm lifters and expect them to fail again at another 180k.
You definitely don't need a dealer! If your lifters ain't broke yet.. someone with a computer and a tuning software can disable afm.
It's not actually tuning your truck,.. more of a toggle on/off switch. I think its $80 and it'll save your afm lifters.
Thia video is great the only thing that would make it better would be if you told us what size the bolts youre taking off ended up being saves us from having to spend more time looking for the right socket or grabbing the wrong one and stripping a bolt cause you used one that fits but was not quite the right size
You have a part 3 to this. Wanted to see the final install and the first start of engine to your fix
Yea, it's in my "ppv Tahoe " playlist
ua-cam.com/play/PLDBTR9jvD3R2BZpZ68CPVV97AjBeZrObg.html
After part 2 is installing valves and springs on the heads, then next is the first start and tuning..
Great job on info and step by step.
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!! Quick question I gotta take my heads off mine, do I have to take off the water pump and all that stuff to take them off?
If it's just the heads, then you don't have to remove the water pump.. but if you're trying to remove the camshaft, then yes
I thought stuck lifters was caused by bad oil like taking too long between oil changes? I have a gmc 2007 5.3L and my lifter on cylinder 7 got stuck. I have them all out now and will replace all of them. What do you recommend to make sure my afm lifters dont do this again? Im gonna buy a new updated vlom as well. Thank you.
You would think that a ppv tahoe wouldn't have that 4 cylinder mode bs on it, I have a civilian 2014 tahoe with a 5.3 in it but the first thing I did to it after the dual exhaust was get a programmer and removed the active fuel management, my wife hated when it would shut 4 holes and run like a honda!!!!......you'd be surprised the difference a tune and exhaust makes on one of these pigs......thing was a turd when we drove it off the lot in 2013 brand new, 7 yrs later with 45k mi it runs better than any other ls tahoe around here. .......moral of the story is.......delete or tune out the displacement on demand, it's booboo.......I used a handheld hypertech tuner to get rid of mine for warranty purposes only, if it was out of warranty and we didn't live in gay ass comiefornia I definitely would have deleted it at the cam and went bigger while I was in there..........and the 3 arm puller your using for the harmonic balancer is the best one to use on these engines hands down......I have the very same one works like a charm!!!
Aye bro when ever u install heads you don’t gotta check clearance right on the heads after you take them machine shop ??
Nice & clean engine tear down. On point. 👍
I learned a lot watching this. Thank you for sharing
I've never seen such a clean valley pan cover tbh
My 08 silverado had so much oil all over its cover glad I re did everything tho
I seriously need your help!! I need the same job done on my 2005 caddillac escalade.😞
😂
Aren’t you supposed to put all the push rods back where they were originally?
Awesome video! Really detailed..... Hey what's the rough price of this kit you're using for the install please? Thanks!
When you lowered the oil pan to get to the oil pump bolt what exactly did you loosen down there?
I see now how I can take off the heads Now thanks for the videos its a freaking big help !
Thank you. Best explanation I have seen!
how lucky, your exhaust manifold bolts weren't all broken
Did you have to purge the Freon to take out the AC condenser and radiator to remove the cam ?
Some power tools would make your job so much faster and easier on you specially if your on flat rate
Great video, very informative, can't wait for the next video 👍
Wow what a great video. Thanks for sharing.
Love how easy Chevy trucks are to work on. What year is it?
This is a 2007
Do you know why cylinder #6 look like this? Was there any oil going inside the cylinder?
I have caprice ppv 6.0 and cylinder #6 misfiring with white smoke from the exhaust and oily spark plug I did a compression test and all cylinders above 150 Psi, there is no lifters knocking sound and by using mini camera cylinder #6 in my car looks exactly like the one in your engine.
Could it be bad lifter? Even if there is no knocking sound?
Really appreciate the break down, something I will have to do in the future!
If its your first time, it might look intimidating tearing into your engine like this, but 2nd time around you'll be a pro. These engines are easy to work on.
@@GTsPerformance I got an 05 PPV tahoe with the famous 5.3 " lifter tick ". Seeing this video made me feel more confident in doing the job on my own now.
Subbed. Nice work. Haven't checked your videos yet but hopefully more LS type stuff coming. 🤙
If your swapping out the heads do you recommend removing the pushrods first?
Clean work!
Very nice work learned a lot thanks
Where can i find part 1 ? I have to do this exact thing to my 13 tahoe and this will be a big help and guide!
ua-cam.com/video/8Ns5ly6wZIQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Vr0rovYC1xdbZg-k
Hope it helps 👍
Hey bro just subscribed to your channel
I’m a technician from SA
like the music you play during your montage vids
When I take off heads….. I always think they are heavier than they are too…
Thanks...this is same problem I have in mine...u r pretty good at explaining..
😊
Great job cuz. Awesome videos. Keep it up. 👍🏼
Thank you for the video
Great Video, Much needed, Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
@GTsPerformance very Helpful, your the Man, wishing you many blessings
quick question do you have to remove the head bolts in sequence like you did ???
How do you get the manifolds away from the cylinder head bolts?
Where are yuo ? I need a job like this.
Will a impact generate enough force for the head bolts dont think im strong enough
Thanks for the Great video. It helps to see it done before I do it .
Yea, I'm a visual learner myself. The job might look intimidating, but it's much simpler. 👍
I hope someone can help me with my question, but I want to remove the heads on my 6.0 and from what I hear, I have to make sure that cylinder one is all the way up to start removing rocker arms and heads. Is this true? I want to remove heads on my car so I I can swap out the lifter by myself.
So are you implying that you can simply delete the dod lifters and just use standard lifters? If so I’m totally doing that. Save myself the worry of the collapsable lifters failing again.
Think you’ll have to replace cam shaft as well possible a couple other parts there too
Great video man!!!! Thank you!!!
What is the part called on the drivers side head on the back part of it? The black arm looking thing
Hi. God bless you. What is the warranty for this lifters
Is it possible to replace just one side? Because my stuck lifter was in cylinder 1 (driver side). I'm wondering why the manifold wont drop low enough to get the head bolts behind it. I know you replaced both sides but can this be done on just one side? And if so, how do I drop it low enough to get to the head bolts without damaging it?
Remove the head bolts under the manifold, then the manifold bolts. The reason the manifolds isn't going down lower is because the driver and passenger are connected as a Y. If you can't get the space, try removing the bolts on the passenger side manifold so the whole exhaust can lower all together.
And yes, it is possible to replace only the broken lifter. After everything is all put together, I recommend having someone with a tuning software Disable the DOD system so your lifters only function as regular lifters, and not go into 4 cyl. mode.. since that is when they fail.
@@GTsPerformance Ok. And should I use a jack or a support of some sort underneath the manifold to to prevent it from dropping to the ground? I'd assume doing this would make it easier to lift back in place.
@@StanOnDemand Yes, use support or exhaust will be dangling from o2 harness. Don't ask how I know.
my truck needs that repair, can you do it for me?
CANT BELIEVE GM SCREWED THOSE MOTORS UP SO BAD.....DAM
Great video thank you 🙏🏽
great job in explaining things.
How did you get you exhaust manafold on the passanger side to drop like that and have that much clearance?
Just remove the driver manifold and it will move
Great vid...😎 👍 👊
Good job good vid🤙👍👍👍
Great video. Did you change parts for any good reason? I've done this job on Asian cars and it seems like trucks are way easier. I'm curious if you could've done the head gasket job and stopped, right? I think you did extra stuff to upgrade things, right? Man this looks less stressful than a small prius engine where you have to remove everything
What did you stick inside the crank bolt to remove that harmonic balancer with that tool
For real I’m at a work stoppage trying to get my harmonic balancer out. It looks like the Chrysler 3 arm puller.
Yes, I used Chrysler puller, and a long hex bit socket
What is the torque specs and sequence for the VOLM
made it look really easy..looking forward to the conclusion vid
Great vid man
Thanks 😎
Nice vid. Thanks.
Very informative video looking to trouble shoot a ticking when I press the accelerator not so audible when on lower speeds have a p219a code dealer said it was the injectors any thoughts
Was it injectors or lifters?
@@20tea it was the injectors I changed all 8 but I was driving around with a p0300 for about a year and mess up the catalytic . I cleaned all 4 sensors and still p0420
The converter in bank 1, driver side cat, may be partially plugged. May have loose material in there that on occasion that may prevent proper flow. You should either get a new cat or just run without them. May notice hesitation at higher speeds.
@@20tea I took it for a hard run just now for a good hour . Getting the rpms up high. And when i came back to go home the check engine was gone let’s see for how long . This literally just happened tonight . Last time I had the p0420,p0300 p050 p0219 code I took the truck for a long drive did 75 aggressive driving and the 420,219 was gone
Would a 5.3 v8 vortec in a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado crew cab short bed 1500 LS that have the calash hydraulic roller lifters or just All regular lifters
The 05 didn't come with the collapsible lifters, so you'll have all regular hydraulic roller lifters. GM started adding the "displacement on demand" (DOD) lifters on the 07+ engines
So how hard or dangerous to screw something up is a lifter swap for someone not really a mechanic. Cylinder 7 is misfiring on mine and my ass is too broke to pay someone else. Have the tools and the will just not the knowledge.
Good shit my boi
so do you have to have it top dead center before pulling the heads off?? anyone know?
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Good technicians
IN THIS VIDEO DO YOU HAVE TO BE AT TDC TO START REMOVAL PROCESS?
@travisssss28 it helps!
Since I'm removing the heads and the camshaft.. that leaves the crank free to rotate, so technically, it doesn't matter.
But, the harmonic balancer doesn't have a woodruff key, so it makes it difficult to rotate 🤷🏻♂️ still doable
Thank you
Excelente amigo gracias tengo que aser lo a mi camioneta
Hi, do you have to remove timing belt too, to pull the cylinder head? Thanks
Es todo viejonon
What's the name the little line on side heads
Where did you buy the kit?
Quick question can I just replace the lifters or do I have to replace cam and everything?
You may get by, but the lifters may eat into the cam lobes. If you already installed it and it's good, you may be fine. If you still notice issues, then you may also want a new cam.
Hey what's the kit from Texas speed and performance you used
I used a stage 2 .550 low lift with 212/218 duration.. and I think it was 112lsa, not certain on that
Quedé clarito con los comentarios 👍