Yamaha R7 try this before buying new suspension
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- Опубліковано 31 жов 2023
- Fork oil
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Front stand
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Rear stand
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Picks and awls
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Torque wrench
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Hex Key Kit
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Decent starter tool kit
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24mm 6 point socket
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Door trim tools
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Can’t go wrong with gear from REVZILLA
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Knee sliders for casual riding with good knee protection
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Alpinestars hoodie
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Brilliant video, so thoughtful of you to explain in the level of detail, just like so many others you’ve posted and many thanks 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! I really appreciate the comment, cheers
Thanks for posting this, Dave Moss has been telling me to do this everytime i see him. The stock fork oil weight is terrible.....
Yea man I can’t believe I didn’t do this sooner, what a huge difference
Great video, thanks for creating. On my to do list after new chain/sprockets 👍🏼
Thanks man, I need to do the chain/sprockets soon as well
Awesone video. I hope you get the result you wanted with this work. There is one thing I would like to point out. R7 has separated fork suspensions. The left one controls compression damping only. And right one controls rebound. so the wired bounce of the first fork you showed is not a problem.
Thank you! And the results were awesome, the bike feels so much better!
Awesome video Scout, as always great content and perfect work. Thanks for sharing and have a nice week buddy🤙
Thanks ck, It came out well… can’t wait to get it on the track this weekend
@ScoutsOut awesome looking forward to your review. Have a great time at the track. I'll be doing 3:16 COTA track day on Monday. I'll be in my R7. I can't wait.
Thanks Jerry, man I’d love to ride COTA! Have fun out there
Lol you beat me to it! Just been prepping for my own video. 😂 Nice vid.
Ohh dang, man it makes a big difference. If it isn’t enough I will put 15w in it but I think it’s going to be good with the 10
@@ScoutsOut yeah I was gonna go with the 10 first. Watching the video, I would imagine the left fork won’t represent the true effect as that only deals with compression, but interesting that you already noticed a difference on the push back on that leg too. Looking forward to your feedback after riding. 👍
Yea for sure I was thinking the same thing on the compression side as it was the most noticeable change, will see if the 10w was enough this weekend
Nice vid and rlly quality content!
Thanks bro, I really appreciate that
Awesome video. I'm sure you were limited on time, so the steering dampener will be for another video. Really interested in how the 10 weight fork oil works. I had a Ninja 300 and had the insides replaced and Gold Valve emulators installed. When I asked about the wight of the fork oil, they indicated using 15 weight oil. On that bike 15 weight oil worked very well. I'm not wanting to spend a whole ton of money on suspension for a new bike (yes, one can think of it as being cheap, but it is a new bike and the suspension is adjustable unlike the N300), so this is right up my alley. Keep up the great vids on the R7. 👍👍
Thanks Jerry, yea man the way the vid was going time wise and another comment asking me to test the bike without any ohlins upgrades on the track, I decided to save it for another vid. I was surprised how easy the job actually was, totally worth doing
@@ScoutsOut you made it look easy. 👍👍
Damn that stock set up oil is pogo stick action no wonder it was sketch, should feel way better 🤙
Haha yea bro I was thinking the same thing… it’s a damn pogo stick lol
Good vid, did you adjust the left fork Height to 7mm just like the right one?
Thank you, yes I did I put them both back to 7mm
Thanks for this great video!
Did the forkoil change yesterday. With your instructions I was fairly easy.
To the big question; How much did your settings change?
Would be great if you could share your settings for track. So I have a good point to start testing from.
With original forkoil I had one click out on rebound for street.
I am about 200 lbs with gear.
Thanks in advance!
Best Regards
Owe
Great weather for riding yesterday, but working all day on the R7. This week forecast for west coast Sweden say snow again....😢
Nice dude glad it helped, it was easier than it looked on vid for sure. I need to make a vid on the settings I’ve been using just sucks that I’m not a expert at suspension so I’m sure I would get destroyed in the comments but this is what I’ve done so far:
After oil change
-Front forks
I’m 2 click away in from maxing out rebound, I’m in the middle for compression
-rear shock
Maxed out the spring pressure with the spanner wrench and + one full turn on tension
As of now at the pace I’m riding I am no longer feeling the front get un-weighted in long corners with throttle on, I have not slid the front since either and I am 205 ish in gear. Hope this helps
Great big thanks!
Hey scout great video as always might look into doing this in the future, anyways Ive put crazy miles on my r7 since I've gotten mine kinda like you, I'm at 10,000 I think you said you're at 9,000. What do you suggest as far as maintenance. Obviously I've been doing oil changes, chain maintenance, and tire swap outs but what should I do as far as spark plugs "supposed to be replaced at 8,000", brake pads and fluid, fuel injection synchronization? So basically I'm trying to figure out if I need to go to the dealership and have them do like the 10,000 mile service or if I can manage everything by myself. I do not want to go back to the dealership tho as they charged me like crazy last spring for a 4,000 mile service, yes I've put on 6,000 miles in one summer. :) I'm also planning on going to the track next summer as well so I don't want to necessarily cut corners lol.
Thanks bro, I just finished the spark plugs, still editing it but that should be out soon. I’m going to do the sync soon and try and do a vid on that. As for the rest of it, I would say the most important thing to do is the white lithium grease on all the levers, pedals and shifter.
Sweet thank you for the fast reply! If I got the throttle synchronized last spring at 4,000 do you think it's something I need to do now that I'm at 10,000? Can't wait for the spark plugs video that's another thing off the list of getting done. Also I've seen you link a 3/8 torque wrench in most your videos, does the 3/8 u linked work for everything on the bike?@@ScoutsOut
no prob, technically by the manual the sync needs to be done every 4k which adds a lot of items to be verified to complete it which is crazy to include the valve check. I still haven't done it and am not really worried about it personally. I will prolly do it if the bike starts running bad or at the valve adjustment time period but do what you think is right. As for the torque wrench: from what I can see in the service manual there is nothing higher than the rear axle bolt and this torque wrench will do it. The issue would be going lower than 10ft lb, where a 1/4 torque wrench or a much more expensive one would come into play. which a quick search on amazon, gear wrench has one for a little cheaper that goes down to 7.4 and up to 99 which would be a little better and gear wrench makes good stuff as well. amzn.to/49P3Sw1
The left fork does not have rebound damping, only compression damping... only your right fork is rebound damping. Of course the pogoing is going to be normal in a compression damping fork only lol.
Yea…I figured that out. Either way, it sure helped me get to the rebound o needed
@@ScoutsOut I have the exact same bike and am a local fast rider here at Tail of the Dragon in Maryville, TN. My advice is get the Ohlins YA589 rear shock with correct spring for your weight. Change the rear sprocket to a 44, replace the chain to 110 link instead of 108- this will move the axle back 3/8 inch giving it the same wheelbase as an R1 of 55.3 inches giving it superb stability, also raise the fork tubes 5mm more than stock. This corrects geometry for Dunlop Q5 and Michelin Power Cup tires, the bike will handle phenominally like it's on rails.
Heya overacting, thanks for the thread about raising the fork tube and adding a 44T sprocket, 110 length of chain, this helps with stability, your the best!!!
@@stevenmorris9188 Glad to hear that bro! These bikes are way too twitchy with factory set up.
This may sound silly, but maybe you could answer this for me. I took my brand new Yamaha R7 into a shop to have the suspension dialed in, and I noticed after leaving that the two orange looking preload caps/bolt things (sorry, I think that is what they are called) were sort of scratched and dinged up. I know a tool and some form of pressure must be used to adjust them, but is there a way to perform such a task without damaging the finish of the orange looking preload cap/bolts? I know it sounds silly, and the scratches/dings are really not that noticeable, but I was not expecting the finish of the orange preload caps/bolts to be altered in that sense. I can understand if there is really no way around it, and that is just a part of the mechanical process, but I was curious what your opinion is. Thank you for your time and any potential feedback.
Hi Sam, sadly you do have to put a socket on them to adjust them which could scratch them up. I don’t know how bad then scratched them but If you use the proper size socket and take your time you can try and minimize damage
@@ScoutsOut Thank you for the quick response. The dings and scratches are not that noticeable while walking up to the Yamaha R7, but they become much more obvious once you are within arms length to turn it on. I really like the contrast and polished look of these two pieces, so I was caught off guard when the finish was noticeably altered. From what I gathered from your reply, It seems like the dings and scratches are really unavoidable when it comes to this particular adjustment, and it just comes with the territory which is understandable. It also seems like the potential of creating such dings and scratches can also be reduced and minimized when using the correct tool and approach. I do not know how easy these pieces are to replace or what the cost would entail to buy a new set, but would this observation of mine be something worth politely bringing up to the shop that did the work? Your insight is very helpful, and it will help me feel things out more. Thank you!
I do t think it’s worth bringing up as it is how they get adjusted, some mechanics pay more attention than others but even in this video I meet up my own top fork with a socket and it does bug me but it also does happen. The way I see it is the more time you vest into riding the bike the more we are going to realize and out ride the stick suspension which is going to push us to buying better inserts that will have better adjustability so at some point you will be replacing them. If you want to can send me a pic of them on my instagram and I’ll be able to better evaluate the damage and possibly give you a better response
@@ScoutsOut I see what you are saying. Yes, I am new to the motorcycle scene, and have nothing to compare how really worn or not worn the front fork caps look as of now. Maybe the mechanic who did the work on my motorcycle suspension did a great job in minimizing the scratches and dings in the grand scheme of it all, or maybe he could of handled it differently as mentioned, so there would be minimal to no signs of damage. I sent you a message on instagram, but it has been raining where I live, so I did not included photos at the moment. I am waiting for the sun to come out, so I can get good clear photos for you to view. I would really appreciate your opinion after seeing the photos.
@@samsterronieyou can put tape before you put the socket on if you’re doing it yourself
how many oz or cc came out
it was about 12.5oz's +/- 1 ounce, the left fork had a little more than a 1/2oz more than the right
Any feedback on this oil change? About to dive into doing mine soon.
Huge difference! I’m loving it, I try and make a vid for feedback soon
@@ScoutsOut Excellent! Yeah that would be good to hear, anything’s got to be better than the bounce test I was getting 😂
@@ScoutsOutwaiting on this!
Man it’s been a world of difference with the oil change and steering damper, I’ll try and make a vid soon
@@ScoutsOut that would be good to hear, I’ve only had two quick rides and I need to make adjustments, mine feels like the bike is now a bit stiff on the front and like it’s holding the bike on the rear wheel, but I’ve made some rebound changes and will test again. I also raised the forks up in the triple tree 10mm as well