▶Sponsor: Edit PDF with UPDF, Now 61% Discount: bit.ly/46P6hUW *Note: be quiet! 12M currently listed as "speculative" on PSU Cultist List was fully reviewed in October and appears to confirm A tier rating* What are you building? What PSU are you looking at? Tell your story in a new comment below!
I’m kinda with the guy above me 7800x3d and 4090 or 7900xtx I have a msi mpg a850gf do you think I could get away with keeping the psu without undervolting and should I undervolt (I know I’m fine with the 7900xtx but I’m concerned with the 4090 still making up my mine there).
I'm working on an AM5 Snow build with a Ryzen 5 7600, Sapphire Pure 7800XT, ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi R, 32GB (16x2) Teamgroup T-Force Delta Alpha R 6000Mcycles at 38CL
That's the way to educate people about hardware. You show knowledge, articles, explaining the core of the matter and then linking practical examples with real products. As always, great video Jason. Keep it up! A side note: I guess I will get the Focus GX 850 or the XPG Core Reactor 850 as next PSU for my new build. I'm so excited to get my hands on it lol
I've been building pc's for over 30 years. My advice for anyone new to it - never cheap out on a PSU. Buy a bit more than you think you'll need and you will not regret it. Luckily these days there are so many quality PSU's for reasonable prices.
@@bengonzales1182 yup, love seasonic PSU's. i have a 850w unit on my main rig now. my old pc is like 11 years old with a seasonic and never had a single power issue. still using as a file server and it's been the most stable pc ive ever built.
That Gamers Nexus Deep Dive Video about 80+ is awesome. Most inexperienced don't know this. Also the PSU-Cultist-List is pretty great. It shows greatness that you point to others who have dealt with such topics wonderfully and can be a great help to many beginners. That's one reason why I enjoy watching your channel after 30 years of building my own computers. Here I am always made aware of things that are obvious to me but a big mystery to beginners. Keep up the good work!
"No one should ever need more than 640 Kilowatts." - Bill Gates Ok, I'm obviously kidding. He actually never said that - nor the false quote I got the idea from about 640KB of RAM, either.
For PSUs I usually went with x 1.33 instead of x 1.5. This is because most PSUs from their instruction manual seem to most efficiently deliver power at about 75% of their full load. But last time I build was 5 years ago.
I didn't know about this list, so thanks for pointing me at it. Back in 2019 when I built my PC, I went with an EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2, which is still in A-tier on there. I actually had a scare with it, as my computer died last April, and just wouldn't boot. My friend brought his PSU over for me to test with it, and while his PSU only had two PCIe connectors and not 3, things spun up fine other than that, so we thought the PSU had died. So I RMAd my PSU to EVGA, and ordered one of the be quiet! ones as a replacement, thinking then I'd have the RMAd EVGA as a backup. Super nice unit, I did not like some of the pinouts on it, but the individually sleeved cables were nice. Either way, it wouldn't boot with that PSU either! I got to experimenting and figured out what had actually died was the third PCIe power connector on my Strix 3080. If it was plugged in, it wouldn't boot. Without it plugged in, it would, but it wouldn't POST as the GPU wasn't fully powered. So it turned out both PSUs were using overcurrent protection to keep the faulty GPU from breaking anything else. So I sent back the be quiet! unit to Amazon for a refund, RMAd my GPU to ASUS, and when I got a replacement PSU from EVGA, everything booted fine and has been going strong ever since. This was my second ever hardware failure, and oddly enough it was the GPU both times. The first was an ATI X1300, which died because I was a lazy college student and dust clogged up the fan until it overheated and died.
Just commenting to thank you for how simply and clearly you explain things. I really enjoy learning the *why* behind the parts I’m researching and you nail it every single video
This is simply amazing! So many tips and information, I felt like I was bombarded with knowledge. Like you get so many videos talking about CPUs and GPUs, but never the finer details like cables, which could be a huge issue if ignored.
I have a Sama 850w PSU and SAMA case. The Sama psu is fully modular, and so far works great. It's 80 plat rated (oops) but we will see. It's running a 5700x and a 3080 for a budget build I did for someone. I had no idea about the psu cultist, they go nuts over there. Next PSU on my personal and others will be to consult that list!
The problem I have with the cultist rankings and videos like this is they don't tell you enough in details. For example I want nothing more than the best 850w or 750w and nothing higher but all the A tier seem to be 1000 above, I get it that they're supposed to be more expensive hence better but what if I want the best of the lower wattage, nowhere to know that I guess
RTX3080 Max power consumption is 350 watts, 5700x is 144 watts. So you need 550 watts PSU. How the heck you bought 850 watts PSU?! 350+144=850? Jesus...
Awesome timing on this video. I've been working on a new computer for a bit now and the only thing I had left was a PSU and my GPU. I wouldn't have given the Super Flower unit a second look until your recommendation and I'm so glad I caught it on sale!
Super flower are a experienced PSU manufacturer. Most companies don't make their own PSUs they buy them from a manufacturer like super flower then rebrand it as their own product.
sometimes you can get A tier PSU and it will be also very budgety price option... here in EU BitFenix A rated units are often sold at very good prices, same goes for ADATA/XPG (ADATA XPG CORE REACTOR 850W is beast)
Hey Jason, regarding the SFX power supplies its worth noting that a lot of the ones you recommended are SFX-L and not SFX like the SF850L (L denoting that the power supply is slightly larger and therefore may not fit in certain cases, not the generation of PSU as an SF850 never existed unfortunately!)
@@_M.... there are! non-L PSU's are still essential in many sff builds, such as corsair's SF600 and SF750, as well as some offerings from Lian-Li, Silverstone, and Cooler Master
Got the Rm1000X Shift. Absolutely love it and it's A tier rated with a gold name on the cultist tier list. Just gotta make sure you have a compatible case
Got that one as well before knowing about the cultist list. Was very happy to see it was A tier. And yes, making sure the case is compatible is important. I had to mount it upside down until I got a new case with the full cutout for cable passthrough.
I've been a SeaSonic devotee since 2000 (when I could first find them locally available). They are the manufacturer for many brand names who just slap a sticker on their PSUs and hand out the warranties on these well designed and manufactured power supplies.
Really happy I found you thank you so much for your hardwork. Always hated bias seller's but your builds focus so much on price vs what you get and someone who works in the server industry only making 30k a year thank you so much!. I am subscribed for life!!!!
I just bought the "be quiet!" Pure Power 1200W ATX 3.0 PSU for my build two days ago. It'll be rocking a Gigabyte 4090 (that I'm about to leave and go pick up) and a i7-14700k on an MSI 7Z90 mobo. It may be overkill, but I think I made a good choice with my PSU! Like someone else just mentioned in another comment, I was recently just watching your 2022 PSU video on top of ALL your other videos and I just want to say THANK YOU for providing me/us with the best crash courses on everything related to building PCs! Seriously, your video formats are absolutely perfect and you are very well articulated. I can't recommend any other channel for people to first go to if they have PC questions. Thanks again!
1200w for games? LOOL 750w its enought on this spec with good power supply. and good power consumption. 1200w its waste power consumption than 750/850w when usage only 5%/10% wattage
I have a RM1000e right now and has atrocious coil whine when not running games and just on chrome/youtube. How is the mx1000 unit in that aspect with coil whine?
One really important aspect I recently discovered is cable compatibility. Only a handful of really popular PSU’s have good aftermarket options for cables. I unfortunately have a really nice PSU that has the several meters of bulky stiff cables about a dozen pigtails I don’t need. Cable management was nearly impossible.
I got the Thermaltake Toughpower PF3 1050W (80 plus platinum) for 58€!!!! There was an amazon price error and managed to grab it. It costs 200€+ atm here in europe. Using it rn for my new build that i got a month ago.
definitely a saving on power bills too. Running a rtx3070+ R7 3800x but did have an overkill PSU (thermaltake toughpower 750w 80+w.... changed to fractal 560w 80P+ and it shaves about 10% off the bill every month..some efficiency but some also better tuned on the power curve....setup should be about 300w base load...400w surge!) makes a big differece when in heavy use.
I have been building PCs since the CLONE days (81-82) and need to comment on the 80+ rating. THEY ARE MEANINGFUL about the electrical EFFICIENCY of the unit! It is like an SEER rating on Air Conditioners. Higher is BETTER, it means LESS Kwh consumed for the same power supplied. For the SAME INPUT power it tells what percentage of that is converted to USABLE power. Titanium means 90+%. Platinum, 80+%. Gold, 70+%. Silver, 60+%. Bronze, 50+%. Bronze is HALF the power to the computer compared to 90+. So that RATING is important. It is MORE MILES per every gallon or in this case less Kwh consumed for the same pc performance. That saves on the ELECTRIC BILL.
I have had a few PSU die on me, but the one that is going the longest for me is the one that is highest on the tier list of my owned units, my old reliable EVGA Supernova from like 8ish years ago. And while I expect all PSU to eventually die, I prefer them not to take out the rest of my rig when they do, and at least last long enough in the system until the cpu/mobo becomes obsolete. So the first video I watched that sourced the tier list is very helpful, and one component I will always buy with proven ratings.
I did a lot of research before building my gaming (MSFS) rig two years ago, and decided on the EVGA 850 G6 Supernova. It's been a solid PSU. But as I've added components and upgraded others I've found that I've been seeing power draws over 720W at full load. So I just swapped in a new EVGA 1000 G7 to give the system a little more headroom. I'm convinced that many simmer's instability problems are due to 'cheaping out' on their PSU. Videos like this are very important, as they help guide folks as they design their systems.
Super Flower Leadex VII should be the #1 reccomendation overall. Its the cheapest and reasonable price for a Tier A PSU. Just bought the 850W version last week, cant find anything better than Leadex VII in terms of value tbh.
I agree. The 750w has been around 75 usd and it's a great value at that price. Has a great warranty and Super Flower isn't getting out of the psu space unless the whole company sinks unlike companies that dabble in everything, so you will more than likely have actual support fir the life of the psu.
By far the most knowledgeable person in the IT space, and you actually do your research to stay on top of whats actual. I do wish to comment on the be quiet 13 series. I have actually read quite some negative reviews on this unit..turns out The way the fan is designed it makes an annoying buzzing noise on low rpm and is quiet on higher rpms. Kind of ironic for a brand called be quiet that focuses on noise profile. I dont know if they fixed it but i would not buy that unit for its noise profile, despite being A Tier rated. 😅
Great video and great advice Jason. Can't stress enough how useless and actually misleading 80+ is. In fact, 80+ labels can actually be bought. If your "newly released" PSU is based on an already certified OEM model, you just pay a fee and get that same label without testing. Even if it has cheaper components (in case you told your OEM to save costs). So there are loads of "gold" off-brand units out there that wouldn't even meet 80+ white standards if tested. There is Cybenetics though, they actually test for everything. Their certification is trustworthy.
yeah lots of random PSU makers doing "gold" rated stuff that really isn't. if you have the money to spend on high end components,then absolutely get a good quality PSU to match. never had any issues with bequiet/EVGA/Corsair/Fractal design or seasonic.All of them very solid and will last you for ever. 80 plus gold (and over) really is the real deal on these.you WILL get what it says on the box. For a component that is used every bit as much as the cpu,it is totally worth paying the little bit extra for lower noise levels and better efficiency. as for power specs, go by theoretical power usage, and then multiply by 1.3. (rule of thirds is good 2/3 as base load and 1/3 as insurance), but is a bit hit and miss.you really want peak load to be hitting about 60-70 % of PSU rating..it will never get anywhere near that in real life, but you don't want to be having system idle at below 10% of PSU either as you're wasting energy. sweet zone for all work is 20-70%
Jason...thank you for sharing the important information about how power cable pinouts differ from one PSU to the next. I just learned about this on the MSFS forum, so when I upgraded from an EVGA 850 G6 to an EVGA 1000 G7, I emailed EVGA before swapping them out. The response was that the pinouts were the same for everything but the SATA cables, and they recommended that I use the ones that came with the G7. I wonder how many people have installed a new modular PSU, used all their existing cables, and damaged their computer. I would have done that without thinking about it. Who wants to reroute mainboard and VGA cables? Great video.
I used a SEASONIC PRIME Ultra 650W 80+ Platinum 140mm Compact ATX (SSR-650PD2) in my last PC build (late 2019, 1080p AMD 3700X system, 32gb, GTX1660Ti, Intel Enterprise SSD) & it is still going strong today 4 years later. The PC is turned on & running for 4-12 hours per day, pretty much every day.
I bough tthe the Corsair HXi 1200w PSU (had a rebate which came out cheaper than the 1000w version). Very quiet. I don't think I've ever heard the power supply once, even while rendering video. My fridge is louder.
I have no reason to be watching this video as I am not currently in the market for a PSU, but I love your videos Jason and always learn something, so here I am. I picked up the MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 Watt 80 Plus Gold ATX Fully Modular PSU back in August.
To those this may help, I just recently acquired an EVGA RTX-3080Ti FTW Ultra. It's TDP is said to be 320W. However, at some point EVGA adjusted the VBIOS so that it might actually pull up to 450W. I had no idea when I got it. My existing PSU was a Corsair HX850, which has served me excellently for 2 years. While using GPU-Z to monitor my GPU on a game, I saw it start rising to 420+ W, and BOOM - a shutdown. No parts were harmed, but I was pretty disappointed. Have a Corsair RM1200X Shift arriving today. Looking forward to letting the GPU spread its wings and fly. I've put a custom shroud on the GPU that allows case fans to be used. It's much quieter and has lower temps (5-10C). Will likely pull huge power to OC it.
Always save a backup of your factory VBIOS. With most newer enthusiast cards this is not such an issue as they have a dual bios switch (you can revert to factory by flicking a physical switch on the GPU). But cards like the old EVGA 30 series don't have this, so if you upgrade the firmware your SOL.
Just an additional important note regarding power transients. Not all PSU's - even good or premium PSU's - can handle the power transients you mentioned in your video. I have a three year old Seasonic Prime Titanium TX-1000 (it is a relabelled SSR-1000TR) and it cannot handle the power transients caused by some of my older games when there are wild swings in GPU load due to loading inventory screens, etc. on my RTX3090. The symptom is black screen and 100% fans on the GPU and sometimes the PSU will go into OCP mode and reset the PC. My friend with the exact same Seasonic model had the exact same issues on his PC using an RTX3080Ti. I feel a bit shitty as I was the person who recommended Seasonic to him. To resolve the issue I had to upgrade to a new BeQuiet Straight Power 12 1200W power supply which is ATX 3.0 complaint. Apparently Seasonic was sending out 24-pin replacement motherboard power cables to resolve the issue on their older Seasonic models for free but I don't know if this option is still available.
i actually got nervous seeing your video in my feed because its so detailed, im currently building a new pc piece by piece and i have accidentally selected one of the psu you reccomended, great video alot of information especially for people who aren't aware of the differences. legend
I recently got a SeaSonic PRIME 1300W Platinum and it started killing every motherboard it was connected to. It totally killed my new Z790 and messed up my old Z370. I now have to emergency buy a laptop just to make sure I have a working PC and have to replace the motherboard in my only two month old very high end build. My old PC isn't worth fixing and is now junk. My very old Corsair CX is around 12 years old and still works perfectly fine. So much for buying high end expensive power supplies. I need to stick to Corsair for PSUs. I have bad luck with SeaSonic.🙄
watching these videos are going to make me self conscious about the parts I picked. I got an EVGA Supernova GT 1000 for my current build but plan on picking up the 4090 or successor in the future, like an 5090 or whatever it'll be called. It was $138 during black friday and it seemed like a good deal. I bough it purely based on review ratings on the site (I know that is hit or miss) and using evga in the past. Though I've only really used CM, EVGA, Antec, in the past. I though to getting a seasonic this time around or a phantek amp. But the seasonics were around 250-300 price, and I couldn't find the phantek amp white in stock. this was for a white build and I ended up just buying white cable mods. Its not now that I realized I could have just spent a bit more on some other white psu's that I'm not familiar with and it would have been roughly the same since the psu + cable mod extensions made it roughly the same price as these higher end white units. I'm hoping the EVGA GT1000 supernova is decent.
Hi, can you make a video on RGB lighting and fan speeds? What motherboards support, with controller or without, how to daisy chain, software side control etc.
We have thought about doing that kind of video yes, but to be honest its so complicated to sum up I haven't had time to tackle it yet. Perhaps after the Black Friday rush (:
I bought a dirt cheap 650w no brand from a local store. It has been running for 12 years almost non-stop, without issues other than a fan that died this year and i replaced it and it's all good. It has been through a lot of power outages and unstable currents, but never failed and never damaged any of the hardware it powered. Also, do not trust the calculators and the "experts". Calculators and "experts" said that my GPU alone needs 450w and my entire PC at least 650. I bought a power consumption meter and it shows just above 250w at full load. So, don't waste your money on expensive PSUs. But, make sure that even the cheap PSU you're buying, has all the safety features it needs to protect the hardware. That's it. Everything else is just....bling to make you waste money.
I'm living life on the edge. I have an upgraded build that includes a Ryzen 7 7800X3D, XFX RX 6800 GPU, 2 sticks of Kingston Fury 8GB DDR5 RAM, a 512GB WD Black M.2 NVMe Win 11 boot drive, a secondary 2TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe, an older 6TB WD 5400 RPM backup drive, a "vintage" LG HD-DVD and BD-ROM combo drive that are all being powered by a 15-year-old Corsair HX750W Pro Series PSU!!! I also have an equally ancient Rosewill 1Kw PSU from an older build that is unused but was still going strong before dismantling THAT system. I'm really getting the impression that I should upgrade to a new PSU - either sticking with a new Corsair of the same rating or trying a BeQuiet unit. EDIT: If anyone is interested, Newegg has a PSU calculator where you select either your current components (minus any fans) or ones you might be considering for a new build and it will give you the cumulative wattage that they'll all need.
I once bought Seasonic Gold and after 1 year it was shutting down my computer randomly. The warranty was useless because they test the power supply synthetically and not in a real PC. I put back my old and cheap Super Flower and the computer works fine to this day.
the corsairs are excellent sfx supplies for sure, but how much kit are you stuffing in a SFF build? if you are just running IGPU then the SF450 or bequiet 80+B 300's are the place to go.
Still using a 2017 Corsair CM750 lolol. It's old but it serves me well. I got a spare new one sealed, when amazon send me back in 2017 when I ordered my current one for free. Gonna use it in my upgrade later this year. Solid power supply.
You are the best person for newbies like me. I wanted to build a PC after 12 years and got so lost. Binged watched so many of your videos and now I feel like I am educated enough to make a decision. Thank you so much for your contribution to the community 🙏🏻
This is great to hear! Thanks so much for watching, you got this! So happy to help. Make sure to check out our How To Build a PC video when you're ready :)
I built a PC with a corsair rm1000w psu , tried to power it on and only the Ram lights up. Ended up taking it to PC repair to find out what’s wrong. They said it was a bad psu. Got a replacement psu and same exact thing happened. I don’t understand what’s wrong. Gonna try a lower watt and different brand I think.
Here is what I do to decide an appropriate wattage, use a PSU calculator to get estimated wattage. After that I take the estimated wattage and multiply it by 1.5. The reason I do this is in case I want add more things to the pc in the future or upgrade to a powerful GPU. In addition if one overclocks having a little extra wattage helps as well By doing this you ensure you get enough while allowing for futureproofness if I were to decide to add more components to it.
Also a very important rule Never cheap out on the PSU. Use the PSU tier list to guide. Never go below C tier. If possible I would try and get either a B or A tier PSU.
Still rocking my two Antec 750 watt PSUs for the last 10+ years in various builds (from a Phenom II 965, FX8350 to i9 CPUs, 970, 1080 and 3080 Nvidia cards, even two Radeon 6970s). I'm sure there's a few of us guilty of recycling PSUs in new bulids. I would definitely get something brand new if the system has more expensive components. I paid $35 and $50 for these PSUs originally.
I've replaced my Seasonic PSU two days ago, I also was running it with the Phenom II back then, switched to i7 3720 and later Ryzen 7 😊 Different cases and GPUs as well :) It always stayed with me 🥹 But now it had to go 🥺 It was still working but it was running for 13 years or so. I don't know if I should keep it bring it or bring it in the store for recycling? 🥺
I've just sent back my Seasonic PX 1300 watts Platinum back because of a loud fan turning on Hybrid Mode even at idle and got replaced it by a Seasonic TX 850 watts Titanium and MAN this is so much quieter and more efficient! Using a 4090 undervolted and a 5800X3D uv on -30 I wont draw more than 350-500 watts and most of time just 350-380 watts on average so the 850 watts PSU is just perfect for me! Thank you so much Seasonic! You're just awesome 👍🏼❤
Im kinda partial to the ThermalTake ToughPower GF1 units from the A Tier. They tend to be the cheapest A Tier units at any given power level when Im ready to buy and have served me very well.
Got any thoughts on the GF3 1200w? I ordered one for $130 after tax. I had been planning on buying a Super Flower Leadex 7 XG 1000w for roughly $185 after tax, but the price on the GF3 seemed too good to pass up...
I have a 20 yr old $100(that'd be $200 today) Roswell modular 80+bronze 80 watt PSU. Damn thing still runs and even still works for a modern mobo with more than the two usual connections. Sometimes you just can't beat over buying on computer parts that aren't dependent on Moore's Law.
I use cheap cooler Master that not certified with 80%, i use that from November 2010 to September 2019. This is Proof as long as its branded one, Just make sure PC wattage is low and we can use it more than 8 years. The reason why my PSU explode because i forgot to clean up my PC case that full of my cat fur...... My spec back then only use 250 watt. My PSU is 550watt that can produced 400 watt
For 20+ years, the three S's have been the tried and true brands. Super Flower, Seasonic, and Sparkle Power/FSP. You have to go by who built the power supply, not the company it was sold to for re-branding. 10 years ago, Corsair changed from CWT to Seasonic on their TX series power supplies, which was more for QA. When doing the research, use the UL labs tag to determine who made the internals. The RM's from Corsair are made by CWT, which is NOT a top-tier company.
This is my set up: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 Processor 7800X3D Fan: 6x 120mm CORSAIR iCUE LINK Cooling: CORSAIR iCUE LINK AIO Liquid CPU Cooler 360mm Radiator with QX120 RGB fans Storage: 4TB WD Black Memory: 32GB (16GBx2) DDR5/6000MHz Dual Channel Memory Motherboard: MSI MPG B650 Edge PSU: 1200Watts - ENERMAX REVOLUTION GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Founder's Edition Video Card Is the PSU compatible and good for this even though it is B-Tier on the pc cultist website?
Also, a FULL SINE WAVE UPS backup, signal conditioning unit to plug the PSU into HELPS the PSU provide consistent power AND frequency control that some PSUs cannot change.
Notice a number of reviews for the corsair RM750e have issues with the fan having a revving and coil whine sound, I'm going to need a new psu to get my next gpu next month and all I need is 750W, the be quiet one is $20 more but I don't really know if I'll get a unlucky one. More or less retiring the old 2070S and it's issues with randomly turning into a jet engine and going back to quiet have damaged me mentally. If anyone sees it, likely getting a 7800xt HH, that's enough performance for 1440p, no interest in RT or 4k and a 750w should leave me enough room to get a next step up model, I think when that happens I will have a full refresh anyway, 5-10 years on. The be quiet straight power 11 gold modular 750W is the other choice for 10-20 more.
You know, I just realized, I switched out Corsair modular PSUs, leaving the cables connected to the components and plugging the ending back into the new Corsair PSU. At least 3-4 times. When from 750w to 1000w, and I think again with another Corsair. Bad idea but no fires. All worked fine.
I just bought a be quiet 1200w 12m. It’s on the speculative a tier list on the cultist list. I was replacing a dell oem 1500w psu from an old Alienware system, because the fan was dying and would shake horribly. The be quite psu is amazing. It’s quite, and it’s very over rated for my system rn, and will work amazingly with a future gpu upgrade with the 12v connector. The only thing is the power cord for the psu is very short, so I had to put the unit with the fan facing up, plus the Area 51 case does not fit with the units fan facing down, only facing up, and it’s a very tight fit at that. However, the case is huge, and there is plenty of air for both the psu and graphics card because I have a fan blowing onto both of them.
- Sitting on a 750w psu that is 10+ years old -Just upgraded to 7800x3d - Picking parts in Pcpartspicker to see wattage out of curiousity - Multiply and see estimated number, 1000w - Starts to sweat prefusely....
Last year I bought a new ATX power supply for my desktop computer . I noticed that it was too light, the aluminium case was easily bendable , and it was Branded LG . I checked all over the internet for the reference of that power supply , and it appeared LG never manufactured my just bought power supply . So , it was a fake , but I decided to use it anyway . It switched my computer on perfectly , but after a few weeks of use , my computer started to switch of suddenly without blue screen . So , I removed the fake LG PSU , opened it , and find out it had blown capacitors . In less than 5 months of use , a brand new power supply got faulty . I will never buy cheap power supply again
Cheap and reviewed by trusted 3rd party sellers and sold by trusted retailers is fine. But cheap and unknown can be a bad combo. Sorry that happened to you.
Came back to watch this a second time before I made a decision. I'm in Spain and just bought a Seasonic Focus GX 850w for 105 euros and comes with a 10 year warranty. Thank you for the great insight!
All my life I was using only Corsair PSUs. And this time I decided to try Thermaltake PSU. It was a huge mistake. I've never ever heard such a noisy, coils whining, fan howling, hissing PSU before. One week of nightmare and I swapped it to Corsair CV. BTW really great, informative and useful video. Everything clear and fair. Thank you.
For the power draw estimations, I've found that different sites give vastly different estimates as well. I have the EXACT same system put together in pcpartpicker and in newegg system builder. One lists the power draw at 437W, and the other at 590W. Thats a MASSIVE difference once you factor in the 1.5x estimation.
neither of them are accurate, if they're close to accurate it's sheer luck. they literally just add up stated or alleged tdp/power figures given by manufacturers with zero testing or verification done.
The Newegg system builder seems to take the cushion into account, because the parts I put into their PSU calculator gives the same answer as their system builder.
I managed to snag a Be Quiet! 1200W Straight Power 12 PSU for only $189.99, so I snapped it up immediately. They seem to be a really good brand, and the PSU itself is by far the quietest I have ever owned. I have yet to hear it lol
I am building a new pc for entry level 3d animations and video editing and gaming as well I am thinking to build with 13500 + RTX 3060(12GB) I wanna future proof as much components as i can because i will upgrade my setup after 3 years with RTX 4070 or 4080 (not water cooler though just normal 2 Fan GPU) may be so should i buy regular 750W 80+ gold psu or an ATX 3.0 psu right now
i thought jason just did build guides while explaining some basic stuff, but he also recommends we check out other channels like gamers nexus for indepth explanations?! dude is an absolute GOAT
Was like "my power supply should be fine" until all thr parts arrived and my old psu didn't have enough 6+2 pins for my new graphics card. But to be fair from what I've read they last about 10 years and it was about that time. I also cheaped out when I bought it way back then
Great video, very comprehensive. PSU pricing in the uk is a little funky, often there is only £5-£10 difference between 750w and 850w units (£5 difference with the Be quiet one you recommend). If the difference is this little then always worth considering the 850w unit if budget allows, as it gives a little extra headroom for future gpu changes.
unfortunately that's the same thinking like 20 years ago, (just take 100W more and you will be save). If it's from the same crappy brand, it makes no difference, besides it will just use more power
I realy hate to see PSUs with 12VHPWR connectors as general recommendation. Yes its ok if you have RTX 4000 series GPU, but there are two caveats: 1) 12VHPWR connector still have same burn issues and this happening on both PSU and GPU side and now being replaced by new 12V-2x6 standart, which unfortunately need new GPU and new PSU. 2) What about PC's with Intel/AMD or older Nvidia GPUs? Because of included 12VHPWR connector they are cutting on PCI-E and EPS connector. Be Quiet Pure Power 12M is with just single PCI-e and single EPS cable makes it incompatible/unusable if you have multiple PCI-e devices or even single GPU with 3x8pin PCI-e. I am probably going to upgrade whole PC 2-3 times and changing GPU 3-5 times before even considering replacing PSU. And btw MSI PSUs getting issues with being noicy with high pitched whine similar to high power GPUs.
I just ordered the components for my pc. All new parts. Ryzen 5 3600, rx 6600, 16 gb 3200mhz cl16,asus prime b550m a, a550bn c tier psu, deepcool cc360 case. 1tb kingston pcie 4.0 ssd. All for 560 dollars. I could not get this price to performance without you, Pc Builder! My love and respect for you from Romania!
The crucial point for me when it comes to power supplies is whether you use a “closed” or an “open” (glass) housing. If you use a closed case, choose a branded power supply (does it now meet the Gold/Palatinum specification at 103% or 115%; who cares?) that meets your requirements. Topic settled. An open case is something completely different. This is about aesthetics, i.e. about the cables - I'm not up to date with 2023, but a few years ago there was only one brand manufacturer that included directly sleeved cables.
Just wanna say thank you to you for this video. I just had my cheapo PSU (that I bought out of necessity due to my limited budget a year ago) eat up 1 HDD and 2 NVMe SSD. Thankfully the MSI MAG A550BN is available for very cheap and the distributor on my land is also very supportive. Beyond that specific point, the video is also very informative, telling us a real lot of what we need to know about the parts.
I bought a 600W power-supply/midi-tower combo locally in Santiago de los Caballeros for $36 (DOP1800). It is a very special power supply with the following connectors 24 pins; 4 pins; 2 Sata plugs and 2 Molex Plugs :) I use a Ryzen APU of 65W; 16GB DDR4; B450 motherboard ($60); 512GB nvme SSD and a 2TB HDD with a 128GB sata-SSD as cache for the HDD. That special power supply is protected by a 1200W Avtek Surge Protector. To be honest the power supply died after 4 years of 24/7 operation, so I bought a new one, but the price was now $24 (150%). The Avtek is needed due to 2 to 20 power fails per week.
For my son's gaming PC in Thailand, with Intel i7 11700KF and AMD Radeon 6800 XT, I skimped on the PSU and went with a local Thai brand, Chinese made, 750W modular PSU.. I didn't know about the PSU cultist list, so I have no idea how good or bad this PSU is... according to a Thai tech UA-camr - Zolkorn - it's much better than what he expected when he tested it to the utmost. He said this PSU is made in respectable PSU factory (I think it was FSP). Just in case I undervolted both CPU and GPU. Total power draw when gaming is probably not above 400+ watt. So far no problems, see if it holds up a couple of years.
9:09 haha, i was gonna say earlier i got a Mid Tower that can not use beyond SFX-L... LOL, no ATX. Now I check the PSU list as you suggested and the one I been considering is at the very top of the A Tier! Only thing I have not decided is to get either 850 or 1000 W because I havent fully decided if I should get 1 or 2 GPU for my upcoming build after 20+ years.
This is someone that has a lot of experience that doesn't pit fall into being an elitist and it's really great to see. I really appreciate the non-bias, here's information and do what you will with it mindset. This video was really informative. I haven't had to purchase a PSU or really any pc parts since coffee lake and this video reminded me about things I forgot to think about. I really appreciate this content and I really hope you're around 5-7 years later when I want to upgrade again.
This couldn't have come at a better time!! My PSU is starting to go haywire and I just rewatched the 2022 video....When the student is ready, the teacher appears...
Hey Jason. First of all. Thank you so much for your content and information. It's worth gold like we use to say in my language. I always pick a be quiet! psu.
▶Sponsor: Edit PDF with UPDF, Now 61% Discount: bit.ly/46P6hUW
*Note: be quiet! 12M currently listed as "speculative" on PSU Cultist List was fully reviewed in October and appears to confirm A tier rating*
What are you building? What PSU are you looking at? Tell your story in a new comment below!
I’m kinda with the guy above me 7800x3d and 4090 or 7900xtx I have a msi mpg a850gf do you think I could get away with keeping the psu without undervolting and should I undervolt (I know I’m fine with the 7900xtx but I’m concerned with the 4090 still making up my mine there).
The cultist page is not loading :c
I'm working on an AM5 Snow build with a Ryzen 5 7600, Sapphire Pure 7800XT, ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi R, 32GB (16x2) Teamgroup T-Force Delta Alpha R 6000Mcycles at 38CL
@@-ixNay- if in the US go with the MSI X670E Tomahawk. It was 300 now it's only 260.
@@graysun1929 you're fine with if you go 7900XTX, but if you go 4090 you'd want a higher watt one.
That's the way to educate people about hardware. You show knowledge, articles, explaining the core of the matter and then linking practical examples with real products. As always, great video Jason. Keep it up!
A side note: I guess I will get the Focus GX 850 or the XPG Core Reactor 850 as next PSU for my new build. I'm so excited to get my hands on it lol
Thank you! Really appreciate that
I've been building pc's for over 30 years. My advice for anyone new to it - never cheap out on a PSU. Buy a bit more than you think you'll need and you will not regret it. Luckily these days there are so many quality PSU's for reasonable prices.
Best advice you could possibly give someone.
Yes, there's lots of good deals! Thanks for sharing the advice and tuning in, too!
fuck. I bought a used $20 psu 😂
Seasonic is my favorite, 12 year warranty on their "Prime" units.
@@bengonzales1182 yup, love seasonic PSU's. i have a 850w unit on my main rig now. my old pc is like 11 years old with a seasonic and never had a single power issue. still using as a file server and it's been the most stable pc ive ever built.
That Gamers Nexus Deep Dive Video about 80+ is awesome. Most inexperienced don't know this. Also the PSU-Cultist-List is pretty great. It shows greatness that you point to others who have dealt with such topics wonderfully and can be a great help to many beginners.
That's one reason why I enjoy watching your channel after 30 years of building my own computers. Here I am always made aware of things that are obvious to me but a big mystery to beginners. Keep up the good work!
Was it Aris that came up with the new "80+" rating system? Corsair has adopted it on their website at least
He's quickly taking away my views from LTT.
@@Karldin83 Aris does the Cybenetics PSU test ratings for both power and sound.
In reality the average person can walk into a Best Buy and walk out with a decent power supply with minimum issues.
link pls
the human eye can't even see more than 240 watts
Is this meme or something? Because wattage is electric
@@boboboy8189 wow you are a genius
😂😂
@@thelionman97 his genius scares me
"No one should ever need more than 640 Kilowatts." - Bill Gates
Ok, I'm obviously kidding. He actually never said that - nor the false quote I got the idea from about 640KB of RAM, either.
For PSUs I usually went with x 1.33 instead of x 1.5. This is because most PSUs from their instruction manual seem to most efficiently deliver power at about 75% of their full load. But last time I build was 5 years ago.
Lol I was watching your 2022 PSU video yesterday and you come up with this today.
haha! It was time (:
Bruh, i also watched his 2022 PSU video yesterday xD
Same!
Same bro i spent the night searching a psu for my msi 2080ti gaming x trio
Same here lmao
I didn't know about this list, so thanks for pointing me at it. Back in 2019 when I built my PC, I went with an EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2, which is still in A-tier on there. I actually had a scare with it, as my computer died last April, and just wouldn't boot.
My friend brought his PSU over for me to test with it, and while his PSU only had two PCIe connectors and not 3, things spun up fine other than that, so we thought the PSU had died. So I RMAd my PSU to EVGA, and ordered one of the be quiet! ones as a replacement, thinking then I'd have the RMAd EVGA as a backup. Super nice unit, I did not like some of the pinouts on it, but the individually sleeved cables were nice. Either way, it wouldn't boot with that PSU either! I got to experimenting and figured out what had actually died was the third PCIe power connector on my Strix 3080. If it was plugged in, it wouldn't boot. Without it plugged in, it would, but it wouldn't POST as the GPU wasn't fully powered. So it turned out both PSUs were using overcurrent protection to keep the faulty GPU from breaking anything else.
So I sent back the be quiet! unit to Amazon for a refund, RMAd my GPU to ASUS, and when I got a replacement PSU from EVGA, everything booted fine and has been going strong ever since.
This was my second ever hardware failure, and oddly enough it was the GPU both times. The first was an ATI X1300, which died because I was a lazy college student and dust clogged up the fan until it overheated and died.
Same happened to me with the same power supply.
Just commenting to thank you for how simply and clearly you explain things. I really enjoy learning the *why* behind the parts I’m researching and you nail it every single video
Thanks so much for the feedback! That’s great to know. So glad it’s helpful
This is simply amazing! So many tips and information, I felt like I was bombarded with knowledge.
Like you get so many videos talking about CPUs and GPUs, but never the finer details like cables, which could be a huge issue if ignored.
Thank you!
Best thing about that Lian Li SFX PSU is that even though it’s not ATX 3.0, it comes with a 12VHPWR connector adapter.
I don't want to use an adapter as I want the actual cable and connections.
I can’t stand the stupid name. Lian-Li, come on.
@@niemoikein4330 cry about it 😂
@@niemoikein4330 It's not Lian-Li nomenclature, it's NVIDIA's. Every PSU vendor uses it with their ATX 3.0 power supply offerings.
I like how Jason still refer or provide other sources of other YT Videos. No heavy competition and just provide education for building PC. Thank you!
You're very welcome! Gotta help the PC-building community all around :)
I have a Sama 850w PSU and SAMA case. The Sama psu is fully modular, and so far works great. It's 80 plat rated (oops) but we will see. It's running a 5700x and a 3080 for a budget build I did for someone. I had no idea about the psu cultist, they go nuts over there. Next PSU on my personal and others will be to consult that list!
The problem I have with the cultist rankings and videos like this is they don't tell you enough in details. For example I want nothing more than the best 850w or 750w and nothing higher but all the A tier seem to be 1000 above, I get it that they're supposed to be more expensive hence better but what if I want the best of the lower wattage, nowhere to know that I guess
RTX3080 Max power consumption is 350 watts, 5700x is 144 watts. So you need 550 watts PSU. How the heck you bought 850 watts PSU?! 350+144=850? Jesus...
Yesterday I decided on the Seasonic FOCUS GX-750 for my build. Glad to see my choice being also one of your recommendations :)
How is it so far? and what gpu u have bud
Awesome timing on this video. I've been working on a new computer for a bit now and the only thing I had left was a PSU and my GPU. I wouldn't have given the Super Flower unit a second look until your recommendation and I'm so glad I caught it on sale!
Super flower are a experienced PSU manufacturer. Most companies don't make their own PSUs they buy them from a manufacturer like super flower then rebrand it as their own product.
Super Flower is an amazing PSU
Well that worked out well! Happy to hear it, thanks for watching!
sometimes you can get A tier PSU and it will be also very budgety price option... here in EU BitFenix A rated units are often sold at very good prices, same goes for ADATA/XPG (ADATA XPG CORE REACTOR 850W is beast)
Hey Jason, regarding the SFX power supplies its worth noting that a lot of the ones you recommended are SFX-L and not SFX like the SF850L (L denoting that the power supply is slightly larger and therefore may not fit in certain cases, not the generation of PSU as an SF850 never existed unfortunately!)
Reminds me of those huge E-ATX motherbaords; if you miss that E prefix, you won't fit that big, expensive part into your case
@@_M.... there are! non-L PSU's are still essential in many sff builds, such as corsair's SF600 and SF750, as well as some offerings from Lian-Li, Silverstone, and Cooler Master
Got the Rm1000X Shift. Absolutely love it and it's A tier rated with a gold name on the cultist tier list. Just gotta make sure you have a compatible case
Got that one as well before knowing about the cultist list. Was very happy to see it was A tier. And yes, making sure the case is compatible is important. I had to mount it upside down until I got a new case with the full cutout for cable passthrough.
Is it noisy?
I've been a SeaSonic devotee since 2000 (when I could first find them locally available). They are the manufacturer for many brand names who just slap a sticker on their PSUs and hand out the warranties on these well designed and manufactured power supplies.
The best of the best PSUs of the whole world! 👍🏼✅
Had 3 of them, one doa other two coil whine , fuck seasonic
Really happy I found you thank you so much for your hardwork. Always hated bias seller's but your builds focus so much on price vs what you get and someone who works in the server industry only making 30k a year thank you so much!. I am subscribed for life!!!!
So glad its helpful and thank you for the sub!
I just bought the "be quiet!" Pure Power 1200W ATX 3.0 PSU for my build two days ago. It'll be rocking a Gigabyte 4090 (that I'm about to leave and go pick up) and a i7-14700k on an MSI 7Z90 mobo. It may be overkill, but I think I made a good choice with my PSU! Like someone else just mentioned in another comment, I was recently just watching your 2022 PSU video on top of ALL your other videos and I just want to say THANK YOU for providing me/us with the best crash courses on everything related to building PCs! Seriously, your video formats are absolutely perfect and you are very well articulated. I can't recommend any other channel for people to first go to if they have PC questions. Thanks again!
1200w for games? LOOL 750w its enought on this spec with good power supply. and good power consumption. 1200w its waste power consumption than 750/850w when usage only 5%/10% wattage
Corsair psu’s for the win. My 2007 HX620W is still in use today. Hasn’t skipped a beat. Now I’m running a Corsair mx1000w in my new build
I have a RM1000e right now and has atrocious coil whine when not running games and just on chrome/youtube. How is the mx1000 unit in that aspect with coil whine?
13:32 Peter Griffin is going to have a real problem with you recomnending a MEG PSU.... 😀
Thanks for watching! Peter Griffin: Who is Meg? :D
One really important aspect I recently discovered is cable compatibility. Only a handful of really popular PSU’s have good aftermarket options for cables. I unfortunately have a really nice PSU that has the several meters of bulky stiff cables about a dozen pigtails I don’t need. Cable management was nearly impossible.
I got the Thermaltake Toughpower PF3 1050W (80 plus platinum) for 58€!!!! There was an amazon price error and managed to grab it. It costs 200€+ atm here in europe. Using it rn for my new build that i got a month ago.
Nice!
yeah i got fractal design ion 2+ platinum £60( half price) too good to miss. No regrets there it's a fantastic unit.
definitely a saving on power bills too.
Running a rtx3070+ R7 3800x but did have an overkill PSU (thermaltake toughpower 750w 80+w.... changed to fractal 560w 80P+ and it shaves about 10% off the bill every month..some efficiency but some also better tuned on the power curve....setup should be about 300w base load...400w surge!) makes a big differece when in heavy use.
I have been building PCs since the CLONE days (81-82) and need to comment on the 80+ rating.
THEY ARE MEANINGFUL about the electrical EFFICIENCY of the unit!
It is like an SEER rating on Air Conditioners. Higher is BETTER, it means LESS Kwh consumed for the same power supplied.
For the SAME INPUT power it tells what percentage of that is converted to USABLE power.
Titanium means 90+%. Platinum, 80+%. Gold, 70+%. Silver, 60+%. Bronze, 50+%. Bronze is HALF the power to the computer compared to 90+.
So that RATING is important. It is MORE MILES per every gallon or in this case less Kwh consumed for the same pc performance.
That saves on the ELECTRIC BILL.
I have had a few PSU die on me, but the one that is going the longest for me is the one that is highest on the tier list of my owned units, my old reliable EVGA Supernova from like 8ish years ago. And while I expect all PSU to eventually die, I prefer them not to take out the rest of my rig when they do, and at least last long enough in the system until the cpu/mobo becomes obsolete. So the first video I watched that sourced the tier list is very helpful, and one component I will always buy with proven ratings.
I did a lot of research before building my gaming (MSFS) rig two years ago, and decided on the EVGA 850 G6 Supernova. It's been a solid PSU. But as I've added components and upgraded others I've found that I've been seeing power draws over 720W at full load. So I just swapped in a new EVGA 1000 G7 to give the system a little more headroom. I'm convinced that many simmer's instability problems are due to 'cheaping out' on their PSU. Videos like this are very important, as they help guide folks as they design their systems.
@@eracer1111would you say that the G7 is worth getting? I’m making a new build and debating on a few power supplies and that is one of them.
The worst is when you spend extra for a modular psu and it STILL has daisy chained pcie cables!
Super Flower Leadex VII should be the #1 reccomendation overall. Its the cheapest and reasonable price for a Tier A PSU. Just bought the 850W version last week, cant find anything better than Leadex VII in terms of value tbh.
I agree. The 750w has been around 75 usd and it's a great value at that price. Has a great warranty and Super Flower isn't getting out of the psu space unless the whole company sinks unlike companies that dabble in everything, so you will more than likely have actual support fir the life of the psu.
By far the most knowledgeable person in the IT space, and you actually do your research to stay on top of whats actual. I do wish to comment on the be quiet 13 series. I have actually read quite some negative reviews on this unit..turns out The way the fan is designed it makes an annoying buzzing noise on low rpm and is quiet on higher rpms. Kind of ironic for a brand called be quiet that focuses on noise profile. I dont know if they fixed it but i would not buy that unit for its noise profile, despite being A Tier rated. 😅
Love the content Jason!!! Keep up the great work!!!!
Thank you! Hope you enjoy!
Extremely detailed guide! It's a pleasure to see you mention us; truly an honor.
Thank you very much! Happy to :) Thanks for tuning in.
Great video and great advice Jason. Can't stress enough how useless and actually misleading 80+ is.
In fact, 80+ labels can actually be bought. If your "newly released" PSU is based on an already certified OEM model, you just pay a fee and get that same label without testing. Even if it has cheaper components (in case you told your OEM to save costs). So there are loads of "gold" off-brand units out there that wouldn't even meet 80+ white standards if tested.
There is Cybenetics though, they actually test for everything. Their certification is trustworthy.
yeah lots of random PSU makers doing "gold" rated stuff that really isn't.
if you have the money to spend on high end components,then absolutely get a good quality PSU to match.
never had any issues with bequiet/EVGA/Corsair/Fractal design or seasonic.All of them very solid and will last you for ever.
80 plus gold (and over) really is the real deal on these.you WILL get what it says on the box.
For a component that is used every bit as much as the cpu,it is totally worth paying the little bit extra for lower noise levels and better efficiency.
as for power specs, go by theoretical power usage, and then multiply by 1.3.
(rule of thirds is good 2/3 as base load and 1/3 as insurance), but is a bit hit and miss.you really want peak load to be hitting about 60-70 % of PSU rating..it will never get anywhere near that in real life, but you don't want to be having system idle at below 10% of PSU either as you're wasting energy. sweet zone for all work is 20-70%
Thanks so much, glad you appreciated it! Happy to spread some learning :)
Jason...thank you for sharing the important information about how power cable pinouts differ from one PSU to the next. I just learned about this on the MSFS forum, so when I upgraded from an EVGA 850 G6 to an EVGA 1000 G7, I emailed EVGA before swapping them out. The response was that the pinouts were the same for everything but the SATA cables, and they recommended that I use the ones that came with the G7. I wonder how many people have installed a new modular PSU, used all their existing cables, and damaged their computer. I would have done that without thinking about it. Who wants to reroute mainboard and VGA cables?
Great video.
I used a SEASONIC PRIME Ultra 650W 80+ Platinum 140mm Compact ATX (SSR-650PD2) in my last PC build (late 2019, 1080p AMD 3700X system, 32gb, GTX1660Ti, Intel Enterprise SSD) & it is still going strong today 4 years later. The PC is turned on & running for 4-12 hours per day, pretty much every day.
I bough tthe the Corsair HXi 1200w PSU (had a rebate which came out cheaper than the 1000w version). Very quiet. I don't think I've ever heard the power supply once, even while rendering video. My fridge is louder.
I have no reason to be watching this video as I am not currently in the market for a PSU, but I love your videos Jason and always learn something, so here I am. I picked up the MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 Watt 80 Plus Gold ATX Fully Modular PSU back in August.
As well as educational, I find Jason's videos entertaining.
Glad you're enjoying it anyway! Thanks for watching.
Love to hear it, thanks! Happy you're enjoying all the content.
To those this may help, I just recently acquired an EVGA RTX-3080Ti FTW Ultra. It's TDP is said to be 320W. However, at some point EVGA adjusted the VBIOS so that it might actually pull up to 450W. I had no idea when I got it. My existing PSU was a Corsair HX850, which has served me excellently for 2 years. While using GPU-Z to monitor my GPU on a game, I saw it start rising to 420+ W, and BOOM - a shutdown. No parts were harmed, but I was pretty disappointed.
Have a Corsair RM1200X Shift arriving today. Looking forward to letting the GPU spread its wings and fly.
I've put a custom shroud on the GPU that allows case fans to be used. It's much quieter and has lower temps (5-10C). Will likely pull huge power to OC it.
Always save a backup of your factory VBIOS. With most newer enthusiast cards this is not such an issue as they have a dual bios switch (you can revert to factory by flicking a physical switch on the GPU). But cards like the old EVGA 30 series don't have this, so if you upgrade the firmware your SOL.
Just an additional important note regarding power transients. Not all PSU's - even good or premium PSU's - can handle the power transients you mentioned in your video. I have a three year old Seasonic Prime Titanium TX-1000 (it is a relabelled SSR-1000TR) and it cannot handle the power transients caused by some of my older games when there are wild swings in GPU load due to loading inventory screens, etc. on my RTX3090. The symptom is black screen and 100% fans on the GPU and sometimes the PSU will go into OCP mode and reset the PC. My friend with the exact same Seasonic model had the exact same issues on his PC using an RTX3080Ti. I feel a bit shitty as I was the person who recommended Seasonic to him.
To resolve the issue I had to upgrade to a new BeQuiet Straight Power 12 1200W power supply which is ATX 3.0 complaint. Apparently Seasonic was sending out 24-pin replacement motherboard power cables to resolve the issue on their older Seasonic models for free but I don't know if this option is still available.
I bought the Straight Power 12 1000 Watts two days ago 😊
Thanks for your videos I was able to build my first PC 3 days ago and I'm loving it. Greetings from Bolivia
That's great, congrats on your first build!! And saludos from the States!
i actually got nervous seeing your video in my feed because its so detailed, im currently building a new pc piece by piece and i have accidentally selected one of the psu you reccomended, great video alot of information especially for people who aren't aware of the differences. legend
Glad to help!
I recently got a SeaSonic PRIME 1300W Platinum and it started killing every motherboard it was connected to. It totally killed my new Z790 and messed up my old Z370. I now have to emergency buy a laptop just to make sure I have a working PC and have to replace the motherboard in my only two month old very high end build. My old PC isn't worth fixing and is now junk. My very old Corsair CX is around 12 years old and still works perfectly fine. So much for buying high end expensive power supplies. I need to stick to Corsair for PSUs. I have bad luck with SeaSonic.🙄
Yikes!
watching these videos are going to make me self conscious about the parts I picked. I got an EVGA Supernova GT 1000 for my current build but plan on picking up the 4090 or successor in the future, like an 5090 or whatever it'll be called. It was $138 during black friday and it seemed like a good deal. I bough it purely based on review ratings on the site (I know that is hit or miss) and using evga in the past. Though I've only really used CM, EVGA, Antec, in the past. I though to getting a seasonic this time around or a phantek amp. But the seasonics were around 250-300 price, and I couldn't find the phantek amp white in stock.
this was for a white build and I ended up just buying white cable mods.
Its not now that I realized I could have just spent a bit more on some other white psu's that I'm not familiar with and it would have been roughly the same since the psu + cable mod extensions made it roughly the same price as these higher end white units.
I'm hoping the EVGA GT1000 supernova is decent.
I just bought a white Phanteks AMP V2 for my 7900xtx build and got it installed yesterday thanks to a previous video of yours 💪
Hi, can you make a video on RGB lighting and fan speeds? What motherboards support, with controller or without, how to daisy chain, software side control etc.
We have thought about doing that kind of video yes, but to be honest its so complicated to sum up I haven't had time to tackle it yet. Perhaps after the Black Friday rush (:
I bought a dirt cheap 650w no brand from a local store. It has been running for 12 years almost non-stop, without issues other than a fan that died this year and i replaced it and it's all good. It has been through a lot of power outages and unstable currents, but never failed and never damaged any of the hardware it powered.
Also, do not trust the calculators and the "experts". Calculators and "experts" said that my GPU alone needs 450w and my entire PC at least 650. I bought a power consumption meter and it shows just above 250w at full load.
So, don't waste your money on expensive PSUs. But, make sure that even the cheap PSU you're buying, has all the safety features it needs to protect the hardware. That's it. Everything else is just....bling to make you waste money.
I'm living life on the edge. I have an upgraded build that includes a Ryzen 7 7800X3D, XFX RX 6800 GPU, 2 sticks of Kingston Fury 8GB DDR5 RAM, a 512GB WD Black M.2 NVMe Win 11 boot drive, a secondary 2TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe, an older 6TB WD 5400 RPM backup drive, a "vintage" LG HD-DVD and BD-ROM combo drive that are all being powered by a 15-year-old Corsair HX750W Pro Series PSU!!! I also have an equally ancient Rosewill 1Kw PSU from an older build that is unused but was still going strong before dismantling THAT system. I'm really getting the impression that I should upgrade to a new PSU - either sticking with a new Corsair of the same rating or trying a BeQuiet unit.
EDIT: If anyone is interested, Newegg has a PSU calculator where you select either your current components (minus any fans) or ones you might be considering for a new build and it will give you the cumulative wattage that they'll all need.
I once bought Seasonic Gold and after 1 year it was shutting down my computer randomly. The warranty was useless because they test the power supply synthetically and not in a real PC. I put back my old and cheap Super Flower and the computer works fine to this day.
The Corsair SF750 is THE gold standard for ITX builds… I don’t know why you would not mention this
the corsairs are excellent sfx supplies for sure, but how much kit are you stuffing in a SFF build?
if you are just running IGPU then the SF450 or bequiet 80+B 300's are the place to go.
You forgot to mention which units don't come with cables so they can charge you $60 more.
I’m new to building pc and this guy is explaining everything in details🙏🏿 Protect him at all cost!!!
My build last Christmas had the Corsair RM1000e (tier A on Cultist) to power a 16 GB RX6800XT card, never had any issues with it at all.
Still using a 2017 Corsair CM750 lolol. It's old but it serves me well. I got a spare new one sealed, when amazon send me back in 2017 when I ordered my current one for free. Gonna use it in my upgrade later this year. Solid power supply.
You are the best person for newbies like me. I wanted to build a PC after 12 years and got so lost. Binged watched so many of your videos and now I feel like I am educated enough to make a decision. Thank you so much for your contribution to the community 🙏🏻
This is great to hear! Thanks so much for watching, you got this! So happy to help. Make sure to check out our How To Build a PC video when you're ready :)
All these power supplies are over priced. People just need a 500W for like $50.00.
I built a PC with a corsair rm1000w psu , tried to power it on and only the Ram lights up. Ended up taking it to PC repair to find out what’s wrong. They said it was a bad psu. Got a replacement psu and same exact thing happened. I don’t understand what’s wrong. Gonna try a lower watt and different brand I think.
Here is what I do to decide an appropriate wattage, use a PSU calculator to get estimated wattage. After that I take the estimated wattage and multiply it by 1.5. The reason I do this is in case I want add more things to the pc in the future or upgrade to a powerful GPU. In addition if one overclocks having a little extra wattage helps as well
By doing this you ensure you get enough while allowing for futureproofness if I were to decide to add more components to it.
Also a very important rule Never cheap out on the PSU. Use the PSU tier list to guide. Never go below C tier. If possible I would try and get either a B or A tier PSU.
Still rocking my two Antec 750 watt PSUs for the last 10+ years in various builds (from a Phenom II 965, FX8350 to i9 CPUs, 970, 1080 and 3080 Nvidia cards, even two Radeon 6970s). I'm sure there's a few of us guilty of recycling PSUs in new bulids. I would definitely get something brand new if the system has more expensive components. I paid $35 and $50 for these PSUs originally.
I've replaced my Seasonic PSU two days ago, I also was running it with the Phenom II back then, switched to i7 3720 and later Ryzen 7 😊 Different cases and GPUs as well :) It always stayed with me 🥹 But now it had to go 🥺 It was still working but it was running for 13 years or so. I don't know if I should keep it bring it or bring it in the store for recycling? 🥺
I've just sent back my Seasonic PX 1300 watts Platinum back because of a loud fan turning on Hybrid Mode even at idle and got replaced it by a Seasonic TX 850 watts Titanium and MAN this is so much quieter and more efficient!
Using a 4090 undervolted and a 5800X3D uv on -30 I wont draw more than 350-500 watts and most of time just 350-380 watts on average so the 850 watts PSU is just perfect for me!
Thank you so much Seasonic! You're just awesome 👍🏼❤
Im kinda partial to the ThermalTake ToughPower GF1 units from the A Tier. They tend to be the cheapest A Tier units at any given power level when Im ready to buy and have served me very well.
Got any thoughts on the GF3 1200w? I ordered one for $130 after tax. I had been planning on buying a Super Flower Leadex 7 XG 1000w for roughly $185 after tax, but the price on the GF3 seemed too good to pass up...
I have a 20 yr old $100(that'd be $200 today) Roswell modular 80+bronze 80 watt PSU. Damn thing still runs and even still works for a modern mobo with more than the two usual connections.
Sometimes you just can't beat over buying on computer parts that aren't dependent on Moore's Law.
I use cheap cooler Master that not certified with 80%, i use that from November 2010 to September 2019. This is Proof as long as its branded one, Just make sure PC wattage is low and we can use it more than 8 years. The reason why my PSU explode because i forgot to clean up my PC case that full of my cat fur......
My spec back then only use 250 watt. My PSU is 550watt that can produced 400 watt
For 20+ years, the three S's have been the tried and true brands. Super Flower, Seasonic, and Sparkle Power/FSP. You have to go by who built the power supply, not the company it was sold to for re-branding. 10 years ago, Corsair changed from CWT to Seasonic on their TX series power supplies, which was more for QA. When doing the research, use the UL labs tag to determine who made the internals. The RM's from Corsair are made by CWT, which is NOT a top-tier company.
This is my set up:
CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 Processor 7800X3D
Fan: 6x 120mm CORSAIR iCUE LINK
Cooling: CORSAIR iCUE LINK AIO Liquid CPU Cooler 360mm Radiator with QX120 RGB fans
Storage: 4TB WD Black
Memory: 32GB (16GBx2) DDR5/6000MHz Dual Channel Memory
Motherboard: MSI MPG B650 Edge
PSU: 1200Watts - ENERMAX REVOLUTION
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Founder's Edition Video Card
Is the PSU compatible and good for this even though it is B-Tier on the pc cultist website?
Keep it up jason!!! Can you do a video showcasing PC builds for creator use?
So glad you are enjoying! Check out our Best GPU/CPU Combo 2023 video, we go over the adjustments I would make for production/creator pcs!
Also, a FULL SINE WAVE UPS backup, signal conditioning unit to plug the PSU into HELPS the PSU provide consistent power AND frequency control that some PSUs cannot change.
Very useful. I have 10 year old Corsair HX 750 and works well.
Question is will it still support todays high end cards like RX 7900 XT(X) or similar?
I'm feeling pretty good. I just got the rm1000e a couple weeks ago, and now here it is as the thumbnail. Very happy with it.
Fractal ion 2s are crazy good too. Fractal's really killing it lately whatever they're putting out.
Notice a number of reviews for the corsair RM750e have issues with the fan having a revving and coil whine sound, I'm going to need a new psu to get my next gpu next month and all I need is 750W, the be quiet one is $20 more but I don't really know if I'll get a unlucky one.
More or less retiring the old 2070S and it's issues with randomly turning into a jet engine and going back to quiet have damaged me mentally.
If anyone sees it, likely getting a 7800xt HH, that's enough performance for 1440p, no interest in RT or 4k and a 750w should leave me enough room to get a next step up model, I think when that happens I will have a full refresh anyway, 5-10 years on.
The be quiet straight power 11 gold modular 750W is the other choice for 10-20 more.
i was watching your 2022 psu video literally last night. ur timing is incredible
You know, I just realized, I switched out Corsair modular PSUs, leaving the cables connected to the components and plugging the ending back into the new Corsair PSU. At least 3-4 times. When from 750w to 1000w, and I think again with another Corsair. Bad idea but no fires. All worked fine.
I like the Thermaltake GF1 850 Snow, A tier rated on the PSU Cultist List
I just bought a be quiet 1200w 12m. It’s on the speculative a tier list on the cultist list. I was replacing a dell oem 1500w psu from an old Alienware system, because the fan was dying and would shake horribly. The be quite psu is amazing. It’s quite, and it’s very over rated for my system rn, and will work amazingly with a future gpu upgrade with the 12v connector. The only thing is the power cord for the psu is very short, so I had to put the unit with the fan facing up, plus the Area 51 case does not fit with the units fan facing down, only facing up, and it’s a very tight fit at that. However, the case is huge, and there is plenty of air for both the psu and graphics card because I have a fan blowing onto both of them.
Thanks for sharing!
- Sitting on a 750w psu that is 10+ years old
-Just upgraded to 7800x3d
- Picking parts in Pcpartspicker to see wattage out of curiousity
- Multiply and see estimated number, 1000w
- Starts to sweat prefusely....
Last year I bought a new ATX power supply for my desktop computer . I noticed that it was too light, the aluminium case was easily bendable , and it was Branded LG . I checked all over the internet for the reference of that power supply , and it appeared LG never manufactured my just bought power supply . So , it was a fake , but I decided to use it anyway . It switched my computer on perfectly , but after a few weeks of use , my computer started to switch of suddenly without blue screen . So , I removed the fake LG PSU , opened it , and find out it had blown capacitors . In less than 5 months of use , a brand new power supply got faulty . I will never buy cheap power supply again
Cheap and reviewed by trusted 3rd party sellers and sold by trusted retailers is fine. But cheap and unknown can be a bad combo. Sorry that happened to you.
Came back to watch this a second time before I made a decision. I'm in Spain and just bought a Seasonic Focus GX 850w for 105 euros and comes with a 10 year warranty. Thank you for the great insight!
So happy we could help! Thanks so much for watching! :)
All my life I was using only Corsair PSUs. And this time I decided to try Thermaltake PSU. It was a huge mistake. I've never ever heard such a noisy, coils whining, fan howling, hissing PSU before. One week of nightmare and I swapped it to Corsair CV.
BTW really great, informative and useful video. Everything clear and fair. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for sharing!
For the power draw estimations, I've found that different sites give vastly different estimates as well.
I have the EXACT same system put together in pcpartpicker and in newegg system builder. One lists the power draw at 437W, and the other at 590W. Thats a MASSIVE difference once you factor in the 1.5x estimation.
neither of them are accurate, if they're close to accurate it's sheer luck. they literally just add up stated or alleged tdp/power figures given by manufacturers with zero testing or verification done.
The Newegg system builder seems to take the cushion into account, because the parts I put into their PSU calculator gives the same answer as their system builder.
I managed to snag a Be Quiet! 1200W Straight Power 12 PSU for only $189.99, so I snapped it up immediately. They seem to be a really good brand, and the PSU itself is by far the quietest I have ever owned. I have yet to hear it lol
I am building a new pc for entry level 3d animations and video editing and gaming as well
I am thinking to build with 13500 + RTX 3060(12GB)
I wanna future proof as much components as i can because i will upgrade my setup after 3 years with RTX 4070 or 4080 (not water cooler though just normal 2 Fan GPU) may be so should i buy regular 750W 80+ gold psu or an ATX 3.0 psu right now
ok, that UPDF sponsor is actually cool!! i have been looking for something like that!!
edit: it's 45$?!!! and has a subscription? naaaaaah fam 😭😭😭😭
It was pretty cool when I was checking it out!
i thought jason just did build guides while explaining some basic stuff, but he also recommends we check out other channels like gamers nexus for indepth explanations?! dude is an absolute GOAT
So glad its helpful! And for sure people should also check out the other fabulous channels out there like Gamers Nexus and Hardware Unboxed. (:
Was like "my power supply should be fine" until all thr parts arrived and my old psu didn't have enough 6+2 pins for my new graphics card. But to be fair from what I've read they last about 10 years and it was about that time. I also cheaped out when I bought it way back then
Great video, very comprehensive. PSU pricing in the uk is a little funky, often there is only £5-£10 difference between 750w and 850w units (£5 difference with the Be quiet one you recommend). If the difference is this little then always worth considering the 850w unit if budget allows, as it gives a little extra headroom for future gpu changes.
unfortunately that's the same thinking like 20 years ago, (just take 100W more and you will be save). If it's from the same crappy brand, it makes no difference, besides it will just use more power
Cheers for the video, picking out parts is simple enough for most of them, but choosing a PSU got complicated recently
It can be tricky for sure! Glad to help!
I am still using a Seasonic 80+ gold 550w psu that i bought in 2010. it was 2x the cost of others at the time but totally worth it!
I realy hate to see PSUs with 12VHPWR connectors as general recommendation. Yes its ok if you have RTX 4000 series GPU, but there are two caveats:
1) 12VHPWR connector still have same burn issues and this happening on both PSU and GPU side and now being replaced by new 12V-2x6 standart, which unfortunately need new GPU and new PSU.
2) What about PC's with Intel/AMD or older Nvidia GPUs? Because of included 12VHPWR connector they are cutting on PCI-E and EPS connector. Be Quiet Pure Power 12M is with just single PCI-e and single EPS cable makes it incompatible/unusable if you have multiple PCI-e devices or even single GPU with 3x8pin PCI-e.
I am probably going to upgrade whole PC 2-3 times and changing GPU 3-5 times before even considering replacing PSU.
And btw MSI PSUs getting issues with being noicy with high pitched whine similar to high power GPUs.
I just ordered the components for my pc. All new parts. Ryzen 5 3600, rx 6600, 16 gb 3200mhz cl16,asus prime b550m a, a550bn c tier psu, deepcool cc360 case. 1tb kingston pcie 4.0 ssd. All for 560 dollars. I could not get this price to performance without you, Pc Builder! My love and respect for you from Romania!
The crucial point for me when it comes to power supplies is whether you use a “closed” or an “open” (glass) housing. If you use a closed case, choose a branded power supply (does it now meet the Gold/Palatinum specification at 103% or 115%; who cares?) that meets your requirements. Topic settled.
An open case is something completely different. This is about aesthetics, i.e. about the cables - I'm not up to date with 2023, but a few years ago there was only one brand manufacturer that included directly sleeved cables.
just got msi meg 1300W psu. i can finally have another little trinket to look at on my hardware monitor -- output wattage and weekly power consumption
Very informative video and I got a slight dopamine hit when I saw my PSU choice in A list section.
Great to hear!
Just wanna say thank you to you for this video. I just had my cheapo PSU (that I bought out of necessity due to my limited budget a year ago) eat up 1 HDD and 2 NVMe SSD. Thankfully the MSI MAG A550BN is available for very cheap and the distributor on my land is also very supportive. Beyond that specific point, the video is also very informative, telling us a real lot of what we need to know about the parts.
Greetings from Texas👋 loving the recent content. I'm building another pc soon and these videos are making my life so much easier😳
Hi there, love to hear it! Good luck with your next build :)
Glad i picked up the RM1000X shift series for my new MB
I bought a 600W power-supply/midi-tower combo locally in Santiago de los Caballeros for $36 (DOP1800). It is a very special power supply with the following connectors 24 pins; 4 pins; 2 Sata plugs and 2 Molex Plugs :) I use a Ryzen APU of 65W; 16GB DDR4; B450 motherboard ($60); 512GB nvme SSD and a 2TB HDD with a 128GB sata-SSD as cache for the HDD. That special power supply is protected by a 1200W Avtek Surge Protector. To be honest the power supply died after 4 years of 24/7 operation, so I bought a new one, but the price was now $24 (150%). The Avtek is needed due to 2 to 20 power fails per week.
For my son's gaming PC in Thailand, with Intel i7 11700KF and AMD Radeon 6800 XT, I skimped on the PSU and went with a local Thai brand, Chinese made, 750W modular PSU.. I didn't know about the PSU cultist list, so I have no idea how good or bad this PSU is... according to a Thai tech UA-camr - Zolkorn - it's much better than what he expected when he tested it to the utmost. He said this PSU is made in respectable PSU factory (I think it was FSP). Just in case I undervolted both CPU and GPU. Total power draw when gaming is probably not above 400+ watt. So far no problems, see if it holds up a couple of years.
9:09 haha, i was gonna say earlier i got a Mid Tower that can not use beyond SFX-L... LOL, no ATX. Now I check the PSU list as you suggested and the one I been considering is at the very top of the A Tier! Only thing I have not decided is to get either 850 or 1000 W because I havent fully decided if I should get 1 or 2 GPU for my upcoming build after 20+ years.
This is someone that has a lot of experience that doesn't pit fall into being an elitist and it's really great to see. I really appreciate the non-bias, here's information and do what you will with it mindset. This video was really informative. I haven't had to purchase a PSU or really any pc parts since coffee lake and this video reminded me about things I forgot to think about. I really appreciate this content and I really hope you're around 5-7 years later when I want to upgrade again.
Thanks so much for the feedback! So glad you're enjoying the content.
This couldn't have come at a better time!! My PSU is starting to go haywire and I just rewatched the 2022 video....When the student is ready, the teacher appears...
Hey Jason.
First of all.
Thank you so much for your content and information.
It's worth gold like we use to say in my language.
I always pick a be quiet! psu.
My pleasure! Thank you for watching