2015-2021 Subaru WRX Clutch and Flywheel Install - Step by Step Tips & Tricks
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2021
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Outstanding video! Helped my son put a clutch in his 16 wrx watching this video and saving thousands. The tranny was tough to separate from the engine. Thanks for posting this
Appreciate the support, glad to help.
This is helping me so much right now, my clutch release bearing completely gave out on me yesterday while I was driving for instacart
Just did it by my self thanks for the help. One thing that helped was I used a strap to tilt the motor toward the car really helped with putting the transmission back on.
Towards the front or towards the rear?
Great vid , amazing work can’t believe you did this on the flat , I couldn’t even do this if I had a lift 😂
Very helpful! Especially the torque specifications for all the fasteners.
Getting ready to do this on the ground starting Thursday. Thanks for the video. 🤙
Good luck bro
Yo my boy and everyone else doing this if you noticed ur alignment being off after its cause the top bolt on the strut u remove is a camber bolt you should marl that and try to put it on the make orientation otherwise you may have differing cambers ofc if ur alignment was alrdy bad who cares but good info also little tip for the alignment pins on the tranny heat helps a million times over thwure different metals thus having different expansion rates couple heat cycles and some prying and it's much easier
Good to see it back up💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾!
I’m doing this right now. All I have to do is is put the trans back in place then everything else. Getting the trans off was a bit of a nightmare even with the help I had. Hopefully everything else goes smoothly 🤞🏽video really helped out a lot thanks!
Getting it lined up/back in was the worst part for me...
Nice details much appreciated! Thanks for the video!
hey man just appreciate you making this video i gotta do this soon before i leave to new york so i will say my transmission will be broken in by the time i get back. But this was definitely a great video to watch and learn from plus i see you're from ohio same as me and i got some buddies up in youngstown and canton who would probably love to meet other subie owners and learn from them.
Check out my car channel "92KBuilds" if you want to follow along- had to quit posting car stuff on this one. But there is a WRX playlist on this one with more videos of it and I have a few videos on the new car channel of it as well...
Best video intro ever!!
Even my 2007 OB is almost the same. Good job
Thanks
great video very help full
Great video!!
I have a fx350 clutch masters. Would that 55 foot pounds on the flywheel be applicable to my set up as well? Along with 15 foot pounds folllowed by 23 foot pounds for the pressure plate! Thanks man!!
I honestly have no clue man. Probably, but it would be best to contact the manufacturers for the parts and ask them to be 100% sure.
Don't forget the retention spring on the clutch fork.
Quick question what x clutch and ACT did you use I have a 2017 wrx?
A1/Stage1 Sprung organic clutch kit, Streetlight flywheel.
Do you have a lot of noise with the lightweight flywheel? Mine is very loud, but my clutch functions as it should. Not sure if it’s common.
No, no noise at all. It's as quiet as it was with the oem factory stuff...
Thanks for making this video, only thing I'd note is when trying to remove the transmission take out the map sensor, I damaged mine and cost me over 400 just for the sensor.. hopefully it saves someone else's ass in the future
Not sure how you did that, but thanks for the tip for the others performing this job...
@@BuckeyeBallistics I was hammering on a 2x4 to help remove the transmission which really a difference. But wasn't paying attention to what I was putting pressure on when I held the 2x4 in place. And just snapped my map in half
Tip: Clean up and put anti-seize on the transmission dowel pins. If you ever have to take the transmission out again you will thank me.
Great tip
FYI, that top bolt on the strut is your camber adjustment bolt.
I was seeing that and thought to my self that i will need an alignment when I'm done doing this
I've had a few comments on this. I haven't had any issues with alignment at all, car still drives straight and tires are wearing even. Just make sure it goes back together in the exact same orientation/spot as it came off if there is any worry, and it should be fine.
Over the years I've recieved similar comments here and there on other videos as well where I've unbolted/removed/replace suspension components and even tie rods, and I've literally never had a problem with the alignment afterward. Just put everything back in the same spot and you're golden. You can mark the components before removing, but I always just gauge it by the difference in metal color from where things were and where they weren't. I've always done this as a default, so that's probably why I didn't think to mention it in the video...
😂
What about a slight vibration ? And to be correct, there should be no sound coming from it after installation ?
No vibration, no weird sounds. It literally feels and sounds exactly like the stock setup did except clutch engaugement is sooner and more agressive (obviously) and the revs drop faster due to the lighter flywheel.
As a fairly newbie to car repairs, but an avid enthusiast, would you recommend I undertake this journey? I believe I watched your rotor replacement video for the same car, and had no problems with that personally. Still took me a whole day to do though hah! I have a Stage 2 2015 WRX, but this seems outside of my paygrade. I would love to learn though, I just don't want to mess anything up and/or not have a car for awhile while I take the time to understand!
I started doing brakes and spark plugs when I was a teenager, which is regular maintenance. My first real "repair" (which I was terrified to do) was replacing a radiator. That went really well and was easier than I thought, so that gave me some confidence.
Then when I was 19, my Z28 overheated and blew the head gaskets and warped the heads. I was making $6/hr part time and couldn't afford the $3000 the shop quoted, so I decided I had no choice but to do it myself even though I had no knowledge of tearing down the top end of an engine.
So, I bought a Haines repair manual and slowly over an entire month, tore down and rebuilt the top end of the Camaro which included having the heads milled because they were warped.
I was terrified when I went to start it up for the first time after repair, that I probably did something wrong and it would blow up or something. But to my surprise, it fired right up and ran better than ever.
My point is, I started out doing minor maintenance and that was as far as my confidence level went until I pushed myself. Tearing down and reassembling an engine however, is advanced stuff and requires meticulous attention to detail for it to go right- so does a clutch job. But after I did it, that's when I realized I could do about anything (because everything went well), and I have been doing my own work ever since (I am self taught).
But whether you should undertake a clutch job as a "newbie" as you stated, is a question only you can answer. I had the drive and motivation and interest in it and refused to be defeated, refused to fail or give up. Other than that, I really had no clue what I was doing.
It's a little easier these days because now you can watch youtube videos like this one where people can show you in vivid detail everything that you need to do- I had a few black and white pictures to go by in a book with a very lacking description within of what to do, and zero "what not to do" details.
However, with that being said, I would say if it takes you all day to do brakes, that you're probably not ready to attempt something like this. Getting the transmission out was pretty easy, but getting it lined back up properly took me several hours and really frustrated me- and that's with my knowledge and mental picture of exactly what every part looks like, does, and how they mesh together. It was such a pain, that I vowed I wouldn't do it again without a hydraulic car lift and a 6ft tall transmission jack/hoist/lift like they use in the shops (having the car 6ft in the air and having the trans lift would make it much easier).
But, as I said, that question isn't for me to answer. This is an advanced level repair that is a real pain without access to everything that a shop has, and everything has to be installed correctly or the car won't move, or worse- you'll ruin the new parts. But that doesn't mean you can't do it if you put your mind to it...
@@BuckeyeBallistics Thanks for the advice! I decided to undertake the journey so if I run into problems and can't get any help elsewhere I'll write you a comment hah! I ended up buying the xclutch organic as well, and streetlite flywheel. Recently backed into a concrete pillar additionally, so I yanked off the rear bumper cover and I am going to replace that and the tail lights. 2 grand for all the parts, but at least I won't pay another 2 in labor. Still have to get the new bumper cover painted though... youch!
@@vanv How did it go man?
@@michaelchurch2076 Funny you ask man, I'm mid working on it right now. I'm about 90% done... this video and others are great and in depth. I did use a lift, and that had been tremendously helpful. Be warned though. It isn't easy. Especially getting the transmission out, and back in. The rest isn't too bad, it has taken a few days to complete
@@michaelchurch2076 also parts are all on backorder right now due to a shortage so be aware of that
The oval bolt on the suspension controls alignment. If you didn't mark them, you should get the car aligned. Otherwise good video. All that crawling around under the car has me wondering how much an engine hoist would cost, though
Still drives straight. Usually you can see where the bolts were without marking them...
If that car is under 100K you are beating tf out of it 😂 great video cheers mate!
Had just hit 90k when I had to change it because it started slipping. We bought it used with 50k on it, so hard to tell how it was driven prior to us. That being said, I do drive the crap out of my cars...
I brought a 2016 Subaru sti with 57k and it needs a clutch already.
Crow's foot on a torque wrench works for the driveshaft nuts.
I don't think that would give an accurate torque read though like a socket. They even say extensions can affect the read...
Thats some fly ass sketchers.
😁
I just changed my transmission fluid 2 months ago. Is it necessary to drain the tranny fluid? Does it piss out fluid just from taking the axles out?
I honestly can't remember how I handled that, but the answer to your question would have definately been covered in the video... so you skipped the wrong part bro lol.
@@BuckeyeBallistics hahha your probably right 😂
I just bought a 2015 plate version. Its on the original clutch with 83k miles.
The clutch feels very high, is that normal? Goes into gears ok etc but feel like its easy to ride the clutch too much when pulling off.
I did experience whilst driving 70mph in 6th gear the revs all of a sudden going up as if i was reving it with clutch in but pretty sure it wasn’t. Unless i lent on it briefly without realising. Anyway if i were to replace the clutch is it normally done as per your video or could it be full engine out job?
Sounds like you need a clutch- test that 6th gear @70mph thing and see if you can get it to do it again without touching the clutch pedal. Some people do in fact change it by pulling the engine, but I didn't have an engine hoist to do it that way.
@@BuckeyeBallistics took it out again an its defo reving higher when accelerating around 60/70mph and not touching clutch.
Only seems to happen in S or S# mode. Not the standard I mode.
Just had a clutch n flywheel priced up. With installation am being quoted £1960 ish (with VAT). That sound right?
£1960 - That is $2350 USD. Here they charge around $1500 USD to change the clutch, or $900 to $1000 USD if you supply your own parts. So without knowing how much parts cost in your country and how much the average labor rate is for a shop to charge per hour- it's hard to say, but that sounds too high to me. Don't be afraid to check a few different places for a better price...
What are all the tools needed for this job? I wanna make sure i have everything before i start. Tia
I can't rember all the tools I used from over a year ago lol. My best advice is to watch the video and take notes. Generally I'll say what I'm using in the video when I use it...
Hey man after you did the install did you have to bleed the system?
If I didn't do it in the video then no.
Just finished the whole install, only question is my engagement point js super high up in the pedal. Is that something that can just rake a while to go to normal?
No, that's not normal. If you did everything correctly, then it sounds like you got the wrong clutch or flywheel in there.
@@BuckeyeBallisticsI adjusted the pedal and it now engages in the perfect spot. 1st is still a little wonky but it feels really good other than that
That is still odd though because I never had to adjust my pedal...
Does the reluctor plate need to be specifically placed I seen the Letter B on it and then the spaces on the side of the plate that don’t have teeth on it… I basically did everything right accordingly but had misfires
And when I let go of the clutch the car would turn off
I covered that in the video...
Question ? Had clutch changed via shop and now clutch feels really stiff. Is it supposed to feel like that or ? I have a 2017 wrx, a buddy of mine has a 2016 wrx and his clutch feels light and soft. It’s literally night and day difference, any thoughts ? Anything would help would be great, thanks in advance
Well, how many miles were on it and was it replaced with a factory/oem type clutch? If it's an upgrade, usually strong clutch kits have tighter springs (the pressure plate) for a tighter grip, thus making a stiffer pedal.
@@BuckeyeBallistics changed at 34,000 due to previous owner. Just oem not upgrade, clutch pedal is really stiff and clutch feels like it sticks before going into gear
I'd be taking it back to that shop. If it feels like it sticks before going into gear, then something is off. And when I changed this one, the pedal wasn't any stiffer, so maybe that answers your question- though I did always think this car had a slightly heavy clutch pedal compared to some other cars I've driven...
Are higher rpm’s for going into 1st normal after doing this job? I also upgraded to a stage 1 clutch, just getting used to it
Not sure what you mean by that? If you install a lighter flywheel it will be harder to get going from a stop. If the new clutch bites better/quicker it could cause sorta the same thing, which I suppose could cause you to rev the car slightly higher to get going if you can't drag the clutch the same as the old one. Is that what you mean?
@@BuckeyeBallistics yes exactly that, also got a lighter fly wheel so makes sense. Thanks man, I was just so used to my last clutch feels like I’m learning how to drive stick again haha.
How many days did it take you to do this by yourself?
I just worked on it a few hours each day, taking my time and triple checking everything beginning to end (plus recording over an hour of footage). 4-5 hours per day, 3 days total. But nearly 3 hours of that was trying to get the dang thing lined up right (most important part). Experienced shops do it in 6-8 hours...
Great job. I was going to do myself, but decided to pay. $1800 in my area. Exedy stage 1 clutch kit with new seals. At a subaru only shop. Would have been slightly cheaper if done at a subie dealership.
We couldn't afford $900 of labor so I did it myself lol.
if you're paying more than a Subaru dealership would charger then your simply ignorant...... or slightly uneducated.
Damn my dealership told me like $2400 bucks for a new OEM clutch and install
@@OvernightCrew I just went to the dealer today 439$ for new clutch &bearings plus a resurface of my flywheel I don't know how much the installation will be now I am scared
@@SuperStatch installation is going to be a good grand if not more.
Did you have any trouble with the transmission getting onto the engine?
Yes- pretty sure I covered that in the video with some tips and tricks...
I’m doing the exact same thing with my 21’ WRX. But on my end, the transmission will not sit flushed with the motor. There’s about a 1/4” gap and the bolts are stupid tight.
You have to get the angle just right- I hope by now you have watched all of the video. Took me 3 hours to get mine lined up and I was extremely frustrated and noodle-armed afterwards. I swore I'd never do it again without a proper lift and transmission stand because it was such a nightmare to get it lined up properly...
Why do you have to take the wheels off and axles out to drop the transmission?
Because the axles go into the transmission because it's all wheel drive brother...
@@BuckeyeBallistics Oh, right. I feel dumb now. I have heard it is easier to pull the engine to do a clutch replacement than to drop the transmission. Do you know where I can find a guide to do a replacement by going in from the engine bay?
No but I know there is a video or two and I'm sure there is a writeup or two on some WRX forums out there...
I'm about to swap the clutch on my 16 Impreza...pretty sure I'm gonna pull the engine. Seems to be a lot simpler.
Might be the better option if you don't have a lift- but I didn't have an engine hoist either lol so I didn't have that option.
@@BuckeyeBallistics Yeah, I don't have one either...or a transmission jack. So I figure I'm gonna have to add one or the other to my tool collection. The way the manual suggests, you practically have to take the whole car apart. Just seems a more direct approach to the task to just simply pull the engine, replace the parts and pop it back in.
Might be
Why do u turn the pulley? When u instal clucth?
To spin the flywheel/clutch assembly in order to get the splines to line up on the transmission shaft.
What kit did you buy??
XClutch Organic Stage 1 clutch kit, ACT Streetlite flywheel. Keep in mind the lighter flywheel makes it harder to take off from a stop, but it allows for fastsr shifts and faster acceleration due to the lighter weight...
Yup
Are gonna get your hands on a 2022 wrx?
We were talking about getting the new STI when it comes out, but we'll probably just turn this one into a monster instead with the money we save not buying it. We're going stage 2 at a minimum, probably further. I really want the new Z car also when it comes out (Nissan). If my channel blows up by next year I'll get both 😁 (dreamin lol).
@@BuckeyeBallistics Yessir💪 Your on your way to 20,000! I’ll be here while you head towards the top👍
Thanks, appreciate that man.
Anyone know what clutch kit he used? Might’ve missed it.
Hi there, it's me in the video. It was an ACT Streetlite flywheel with a XClutch organic clutch kit. The clutch kit is a mild upgrade, a little more bite/strength than stock. The flywheel is lighter and spins up faster which helps with acceleration and quicker shifts with less rev hang, but it's a little more tricky taking off from a stop (this is common for a lightweight flywheel).
@@BuckeyeBallistics thank you!
Welcome
OMG these throwout bearings
I bought the Exedy kit for my Impreza. Clutch disc and pressure plate...made in Japan. Pilot bearing and release bearing...made in China. That crap throwout bearing is the reason I have to replace my clutch.
Was thinking of doing my own but this seems like a nightmare
I mean, having to pull a transmission out of a car for service is a serious repair and is certainly on the upper scale on the difficulty meter. It doesn't get much more involved than this- pro level shit right here lol. That's why the labor charge alone is usually 1000 bucks... I will say however that it'd be much easier with a car lift and a 6ft transmission jack/cradle.
Replaced my clutch, flywheel disc, throwback bearing… my car won’t move. Starts no problem. When I put in gear, release clutch pedal, car keeps running and doesn’t stall. Any ideas???
Incorrect parts, parts not installed correctly, forgot to hook something back up. During removal and install, every new part should have been compared to the old parts comming out to confirm they are the same. The wrong flywheel or pressure plate (as only 1 example), could cause this issue due to a narrower diameter or different offset, thus not allowing the clutch to engage. The wrong throw out bearing could cause this also, etc.
Parts not installed correctly could cause a similar issue with components not being able to mesh together, like putting the throwout bearing on backwards (some cars), improper shift fork install, or the clutch components/shaft not being aligned properly and thus on a bind and not making contact with one another.
Then of course forgetting to hook something back up, or up correctly could cause an issue. It sucks, but you're probably goung to have to do it over again. We've put another 15k on the car since this install and haven't had any issues, so everything was shown and done correctly (not that I doubt my abilities, but you might).
My best advise is to study all of this video without skipping it, and carefully follow along with it step by step and triple check everything and make sure everything is the same demensions as what you took off or what I took off/installed. Good luck, and let me know what you find. I'll do what I can to help, but I already said and showed everything in this video in much detail...
bleed your clutch
You had no help just like I’ll have no help. Wish we could have helped each other. Anyway thanks for the video. Looks like a pain in the ass.
Watching this and doing it right now. But omg it's a bitch trying to get the intercooler off
Good luck with the install. Make sure you triple check everything...
i tried this and dropped the gearbox on me
You should have got an automatic I don't know why everyone thinks manual WRX is the way to go
🤣🤣🤣🤣 NO