Build permanent work benches for miter saw and roll Milwaukee mobile boxes under miter saw benches for storage. Roll them out when you need another work surface. Take advantage of their mobility in a small shop.
This definitely sounds like the best option for a small shop. You get a level miter table, and you keep the mobility and extra functional work bench space when you need it. In this scenario, all you need to worry about is the right-side gap between the bottom of the permanent bench and the top of the Milwaukee bench will be larger than the gap on the left-side. You may have to trim out the underside of the permanent bench to hide the gap difference, if you're even worried about that kind of thing.
Can you do a video for us newbie trim installers on what you use each guage for? 15ga for doors? 16 guage for base and casing? 18 for stain grade trim? what are your tricks for choosing the right guage?
Amazon sells spacekeeper casters that allow you to step on them, bringing the faster down when the bench needs to be moved. Otherwise they are lifted out of the way. It requires the bench to be mounted to a wood frame on the bottom. Not that expensive and they carry a ton of weight.
@@FinishCarpentryTV you could just cram some 4x4's + shims under the boxes to pick the casters up off the floor and level them out. Then if you need to move them you just jack up one end, pull the blocks out, etc.
I agree, one thing to consider is if it is a cutoff saw station you really don't want to have it move around and then have to re adjust everything back to specs such as level and tracks and tape measure
Instead of shimming the casters with washers - which will cause them to be unlevel if you move them - install leveling legs that will allow you to raise/lower heights, but gives you the flexibility of moving the cabinets by backing the legs off.
Make height adjustable table tops for the two units whereby you can raise, lower, or slope each independently. That will allow you to keep the mobility if necessary and adjust the tops to level regardless of slope. Love your humour
Anwenk Leveling Feet Heavy Duty Furniture Levelers Adjustable Table Leg Leveler w/Lock Nuts for Furniture,Table, Cabinets, Workbench,Shelving Units and More,Bla
Great video, but please help educate me. As I primarily work in a shop environment, 1) What would be the driving reason to have both the 15 and 16 gauge gun? 2) Besides the 15 gauge nail being thicker, in what applications would I use it over the 16?
You can’t underestimate good functionality in a small shop. It was smart of you to use tool storage boxes under the miter saw wings. Much more practical than miter stands. Good job. I’m liking your space so far. Pretty good. I’m still working on my shop after the new minimax slider. It’s been fun. Almost feeling like it’s a new shop again.
@@FinishCarpentryTV Thanks a lot. Its amazing how much a shop can get so messy before it gets better. When are you getting your saw by the way? I heard it was taking a year to get one these days.
Love your videos. i have been using air for years, framing, 16, and 18 ga. purchased a dewalt 18ga last year no complaints. now after reviewing several videos on milwaukee i am thinking about either the 15 or 16 ga but cannot make up my mind as i have never used or considered a 15ga. what and where would i need a 15 ga vs a 16 ga? thanks in advance
Maaaan Richard your too cool man been watching your videos for years and always loving them. Keep up the great work and content man👍 for another 100 years!
Build a level deck for both box’s to roll up on . Use 1/2 birch plywood and taper cut the framing. You should be able to roll the boxes on and off on the shallow end . Just put plenty of support under the plywood
I second this. build a level ground for the boxes that way you can still move them if you want, without the casters being off level or modified. Doesn't need to be very high, just high enough to fit the wood and the framing as well as account for the slant. Great idea.
Im equipped with the 18 straight trim gun and the 23 brad gun. Milwaukee 18 Fuel line is awesome. No more compressors !!!!! You can now listen to your radio all day long uninterrupted.
Build a permanent work bench and roll the tool boxes underneath, with a slopped floor and 8 wheels getting it perfectly flat will be difficult and then if you move it you’ll throw it all off. This way you’ll have the bench surface of the saw and then the added benches of the tool boxes if needed and when you don’t you can tuck them back under and out of the way.
I had a similar setup…rolling tool cart on either side of a window …slope problem. I built a torsion box “countertop” with triangle supports on either side of the window that in turn support the bridge that holds the saw. The countertop is high enough for me to park my rolling tool boxes underneath. Max flexibility.
Shim between the butcher block tops a the tool cabinets. Sometimes the tops are even freestanding . But if the tops are screwed down just loosen and shim between
Countertops on a track that can be raised up over the window.. with or without the mitersaw. Tool boxes can still roll out and placed together in the middle for table saw that also lowers from the ceiling into place at the end of the boxes
Back 5 years ago, I got Ryobi 18 gauge nailer instead of Milwaukee. Then Milwaukee improved their 18 ga nailer. I decided to wait for my Ryobi to break. Never happened. Then I got Milwaukee 21 stud nailer. I couldn’t wait for them to improve their 15 ga. They did. And I got it a few weeks ago. It is a great nailer. Ok back to my Ryobi. Like many of my Ryobi, it never breaks and has been faithful despite so much abuse. So I am sticking with it till the bitter end.
I remember you said in a previous video you rarely use 16g compared to having a 15g and 18g, is that still true or do you have different experiences and use both now?
I had a similar problem i took off the casters and built a 2x4 platform and cut the studs in a wedge to make top of platform level or even 2x6 if you need hight
Where i live, the only place i can get milwaukee is home depot. They only carry the straight 16ga, not the angled. So i got the straight. I thought it would be hard to get into corners and stuff, but its actually quite good. Tons of power too.
Great video concerning the new finish nailers. But which one should you buy. The 15 or the 16 gauge? Which application is bette if you can only buy one of them? What is your opinion.
Depends....DO you want the cabinets to roll? Then you'd need to insert shims between the cabinet and casters. Not sure how the casters are attached but playing underneath the weight of the cabinets does not seem fun. Next question is...do you wish to continually clean under the cabinets? If that isn't a problem, then I'd try swapping casters for leveling feet. If you do not wish to keep cleaning, made them a platform to sit on and remove the casters. Obviously taper the lower edge of the platform to match the slope of the garage floor.
As usual awesome video. I went compressor free 2 yrs ago. I did have to use compressor just for the 15ga nail gun but everything else is Milwaukee. I used a crown stapler when I didn’t want to use compressor. I still have all power tools in the truck as back up.
My 2¢ - take the top off of the cabinets and shim them up then put them back on. Could maybe even use some of the grk door jamb screws somehow to adjust them later.
To make leveling those tool boxes way easier, invest in 2 of the Viking Arm. They make so many jobs easier. Just be careful of all the knock offs. They should be around $200 each. I know Massca products sells them and I think Home Depot is selling them now. Best money I have spent.
Looking forward to your miter station build. I picked up a couple of husky rolling boxes a few months back and started on mine. Just got busy and haven’t finished it yet. Also I guess because I just don’t know how I want to do it. I did end up pulling the wheels off my buses and building a level platform for them to sit on. Looking forward to your ideas
Tool boxes, take the casters off, build a platform or frame to your desired height and set the boxes into a catch rabbit on top and set a toe kick also. Just a thought young man. Congrats on the nailers and boxes.
To level the saw station,put deminishing shimmeson on floor floor fix plywood with upstanding and lock wheels in place when ply and shimmes are levelled
Remove casters and hang them on the wall leaving room to run a dust mop under as needed. Or do a simple search for heavy duty workbench leveling feet. You can leave the casters on and outboard mount the levelers.
I had a similar problem. I just built a platform that made the top level ad added the wheels (inset) under the platform. If the workspace is going to be fixed, just leave the wheels off. You can paint the platforms to match the cabinets.
Been waiting to see more about these guns before I pulled the trigger. After watching this, I’m definitely getting that 16 ga nailer. Nice and quiet, fast, precision shooting, just seems like they nailed it (no pun)
I would make elevated blocks for three of the sets of the caster wheels to keep your work stations level straight across. Mark the floor or wall where these blocks are placed in case you want to move your workstations around and be able to quickly put them level again.
Mannn we are living in the golden age for construction, renovations and carpentry. We have carbide tipped reciprocating saw blades that cut up cast iron radiators like butter! Battery powered everything (LED lights, tablesaws, mitre saw’s, grinders etc.) that last all day! PPE And and work gear is getting a lot better for the job site, keeping us warm in the winter, cool in the summer and safe all year long! Now if they can just give us some shop vac without a pleated filter! Something that has LEDs on the handle, remote control and also cleans the air when you want break! Dyson, Shark and Hoover etc. do a great job for the home vacuum cleaner, you don’t need bags or filters, but the jobsite is left behind! I hate shop vac with every fibre of me, but have to use them constantly.
My only problem was that I bought the first Milwaukee M18 nailers. They were the biggest pieces of trash. Milwaukee should have bought everyone of those pieces of 💩 back. This comment isn’t directed towards you but rather letting people know that Milwaukee makes crap also.
@@campbellbuilt So true. The brand name and color scheme trade mark carrying their ass so hard to the Point that everyone would buy without watching some UA-cam reviews.
I would take the casters off and build bases like you would for a washer and dryer, that way you would solve the level problem and you could build it to the exact height you want it. Boom 💥
Big fan, love my 18ga. Wondering if you have specific uses for the 16ga. I have my eye on the 23ga, but just bought a festool sander so….maybe after new year lol.
Not sure how tall them boxes are and what height you like your side at but I would say if you wanted to get the wheels on then build a level platform and if that was higher then you like you can probably take wheels off and install on top or just fasten a ledger to the wall and hang the box's like cabinets. I would still leave ledger under there and then maybe get a 4x4 and scribe in 2 front legs on each box. Glad you went this route..all that money on the cut hub and leaving it in the shop seemed like a huge waste..plus I would want that on site. I was extremely happy for you guy's when you stopped cutting on your knees lol. Them milwaukee guns are awesome. I don't use a 16ga. I find myself pretty happy just running the other guns. I have the 15,18 & 23ga for trim and then the monster for small framing. I do all remodeling so we frame additions, even a few whole houses back in the day but when I'm framing all day I'm pulling out air and definitely when we are sheathing. The framing gun is awesome but crazy heavy so it's just for them small jobs or quick little task. It's crazy the power that 15ga has tho right? Can't wait to see your miter station set up brother..I'm sure it's gonna be awesome. Think it through b4 you start it tho lol. Sometimes I kick myself in the ass bc I get anxious and jump into something and then afterwards all the brilliant ideas start running through my head lol.
This may be a bit of a noob question, but when would you use each gauge? I use 18 for base and casing.. where are the 15 and 16 better for? Thank, love the channel.
Being 15 is slightly bigger than 16 do you think its worth buying both or just 1 over the other and when would you use each.... ive loved your channel since finding it!!!
In my garage I built a reverse sloped platform to make up the difference. Now all my cabinets and miter station are 💯 level. 17 feet by 23 inches. Growing from 1 inch to 2 1/2 inches. Now all set
@finish carpentry tv Are you switching to these from your DeWalt cordless nailers or just adding to the fleet. Curious if you disliked the DeWalt nailers. Thank you. Love you channel. Nice mix of detail how to videos and tool review/ demonstrations.
did you get rid of the paslodes the best way to level the tool boxs is to build a frame from 2x4 s and shim it level and bolt it to the floor. then put the boxs on top without the casters.
Is your idea the flexibility to move them out the way if needed. So no permanent structure for mitre saw. If the case then get some adjustable heavy duty feet mount them near each caster but making sure on the lowest setting the wheels are free so can still roll around. Other option level mounted work surface just above the stations on a drop leaf system so the worktop can be folded down if needed. But not sure on the work height if comfortable. Your figure it out you normally do 😉
Hello, could you explain the differences in use for the 18g,16g and 15g. Also if you where to buy only one to do multiple jobs which one would it be. Thanks.
You are tall enough. Cut a sheet of 3/4 ply in half length wise. Shim the plywood on the floor to make a level surface. Then you can roll the tool boxes onto the plywood without having to modify or adjust the tool boxes in any way.
Hey Buddy. What I would do is remove the caster bolts and add some that are a tad longer. Then go get a variety of front end shims from your local auto store. Jack up the end you need to raise and slide in some shims until you're at the right height. Shims are way easier than fumbling with washers off and on. When you get it just right, Just tighten up the bolts with the shims in place and you'll be gold. Rich
I got the Framing nailer...its a beast and heavy,Went with the Metabo 15 guage....its a champ too and nice and light...all my other cordless is Dewalt as well as my saws....
Sometimes the easiest method is the best method. Take the casters off the one rolling tool chest and shim them out with the heavy duty flat washers until each end of the chest is level with the other rolling tool chest. You’ll need to use different amounts depending which end of the rolling tool chest your leveling but that way both still mobile and everything is level and will play nicely with your intended miter set up. Cheers bud! Love the content
What do you typically use the 15 vs. the 16 on? I've always used the 16 for hanging doors, but those are generally hollow core. I'm a GC and work on multiple phases, when doing finish it's usually doors, windows and base for the nailers. Just wondering if a 15 makes more sense over a 16. Great content, thanks!
Have you used the older version of the Milwaukee finish nailer? I didn’t like it and I want to get the new version but I’m not sure if it’s worth it. My main complaint with the old one was toe nailing anything or sometimes it was inconsistent. Thanks for the videos and the feed back.
I'm gonna run my 16 ga paslode till it's trash, but I'm definitely fed up with the maintenance, gas cartridge, and the depth adjustment isn't consistent, my DeWalt 18 ga is meh. Still waiting on M18 Tracksaw. I will definitely buy asap. I have the M18 framing nailer with extended mag, I love it.
Looking to buy the 15g nailer for installing 3/4in oak - face nailing and toe nailing the tongue when I can't get in there with the big pneumatic stapler. If it can fire through that thick ash, it shouldn't have a problem with the oak.
I’ve used the older Milwaukee guns and found that you can’t limp wrist when shooting or the nails don’t set. The brad worked the best IMO. I’ve had better results with the DEWALT.
I would do a toe kick but still allow for the move ability of the chests. Build a a ramp inside where it locks down and doesn’t move. Almost like a lock inside the toe kick. When you pull the lock out you can move the chests out. You still wanna stay mobile I am assuming because you bought those.
I just ordered two of the 52" mobile workstations (after seeing this) because I think the clamping ability of the raised worktop will be excellent along with my miter saw. I may even router in some t-tracks.
I am curious, when using the Milwaukee m18 finish nailers, how are the nail holes? Hopefully they are not larger than the nail heads. And how do the nailers do when firing at an angle?
Build permanent work benches for miter saw and roll Milwaukee mobile boxes under miter saw benches for storage. Roll them out when you need another work surface. Take advantage of their mobility in a small shop.
Perfect. I think this is absolutely the best advise given. Makes really good sense. I know I would be glad at some point later on.
My thoughts exactly. I would perhaps even mount the miter saw bench to the wall and then indeed make these boxes slide just under the bench.
This definitely sounds like the best option for a small shop. You get a level miter table, and you keep the mobility and extra functional work bench space when you need it. In this scenario, all you need to worry about is the right-side gap between the bottom of the permanent bench and the top of the Milwaukee bench will be larger than the gap on the left-side. You may have to trim out the underside of the permanent bench to hide the gap difference, if you're even worried about that kind of thing.
@@paulkruse1219 if only he knew someone that could do trim work😂
I was thinking the same thing it's either that, replace the casters with adjustables
Can you do a video for us newbie trim installers on what you use each guage for? 15ga for doors? 16 guage for base and casing? 18 for stain grade trim? what are your tricks for choosing the right guage?
If your willing to leave the toolboxes where they are you could take the casters off and put them on wood toe kick frames.
Amazon sells spacekeeper casters that allow you to step on them, bringing the faster down when the bench needs to be moved. Otherwise they are lifted out of the way. It requires the bench to be mounted to a wood frame on the bottom. Not that expensive and they carry a ton of weight.
@@FinishCarpentryTV you could just cram some 4x4's + shims under the boxes to pick the casters up off the floor and level them out. Then if you need to move them you just jack up one end, pull the blocks out, etc.
I agree, one thing to consider is if it is a cutoff saw station you really don't want to have it move around and then have to re adjust everything back to specs such as level and tracks and tape measure
This.
Instead of shimming the casters with washers - which will cause them to be unlevel if you move them - install leveling legs that will allow you to raise/lower heights, but gives you the flexibility of moving the cabinets by backing the legs off.
+1 I like this idea too
Me too. Viking arms do this but are expensive
+2. Plus leveling legs will make the carts rock solid.
Leveling legs all the way
Make height adjustable table tops for the two units whereby you can raise, lower, or slope each independently. That will allow you to keep the mobility if necessary and adjust the tops to level regardless of slope.
Love your humour
Anwenk Leveling Feet Heavy Duty Furniture Levelers Adjustable Table Leg Leveler w/Lock Nuts for Furniture,Table, Cabinets, Workbench,Shelving Units and More,Bla
Wow, your channel has grown nicely over last year or two. Good for you. You deserve it!
Great video, but please help educate me. As I primarily work in a shop environment, 1) What would be the driving reason to have both the 15 and 16 gauge gun? 2) Besides the 15 gauge nail being thicker, in what applications would I use it over the 16?
Can you recommend the finish nail brand you use regularly? 15, 16 and 18 GA. Thanks!
You can’t underestimate good functionality in a small shop. It was smart of you to use tool storage boxes under the miter saw wings. Much more practical than miter stands. Good job. I’m liking your space so far. Pretty good. I’m still working on my shop after the new minimax slider. It’s been fun. Almost feeling like it’s a new shop again.
@@FinishCarpentryTV Thanks a lot. Its amazing how much a shop can get so messy before it gets better. When are you getting your saw by the way? I heard it was taking a year to get one these days.
Man I love my battery nail guns. Especially the 16 gauge and 23 gauge. Haven’t had a compressor on site forever. It’s nice.
Love your videos. i have been using air for years, framing, 16, and 18 ga. purchased a dewalt 18ga last year no complaints. now after reviewing several videos on milwaukee i am thinking about either the 15 or 16 ga but cannot make up my mind as i have never used or considered a 15ga. what and where would i need a 15 ga vs a 16 ga?
thanks in advance
I would take the caster's off and use threaded adjustable feet for the new rolling box man
Maaaan Richard your too cool man been watching your videos for years and always loving them. Keep up the great work and content man👍 for another 100 years!
Good video very informative, I just returned a 18 gauge , I needed a 15 gauge at least, now I know..thanks
When would you use the 16 versus the 15 I have a 15
Build a level deck for both box’s to roll up on . Use 1/2 birch plywood and taper cut the framing. You should be able to roll the boxes on and off on the shallow end . Just put plenty of support under the plywood
I second this. build a level ground for the boxes that way you can still move them if you want, without the casters being off level or modified. Doesn't need to be very high, just high enough to fit the wood and the framing as well as account for the slant. Great idea.
I’ve been airless for 6 months with the 18g and the 23g. Both are dreams and neither have a had a jam yet. Not once. Milwaukee rocks
What is the different reason to use 16 gauge or 15 thank you
1 gauge lol
but seriously, I was wondering why he would need both of them..
Im equipped with the 18 straight trim gun and the 23 brad gun. Milwaukee 18 Fuel line is awesome. No more compressors !!!!! You can now listen to your radio all day long uninterrupted.
Build a permanent work bench and roll the tool boxes underneath, with a slopped floor and 8 wheels getting it perfectly flat will be difficult and then if you move it you’ll throw it all off. This way you’ll have the bench surface of the saw and then the added benches of the tool boxes if needed and when you don’t you can tuck them back under and out of the way.
I had a similar setup…rolling tool cart on either side of a window …slope problem. I built a torsion box “countertop” with triangle supports on either side of the window that in turn support the bridge that holds the saw. The countertop is high enough for me to park my rolling tool boxes underneath. Max flexibility.
Shim between the butcher block tops a the tool cabinets. Sometimes the tops are even freestanding . But if the tops are screwed down just loosen and shim between
I have the 18 and love it .I'm going out today to get 16 angled. Was nervous until I saw this thanks for the video.
That zero ramp up time just sold me on those nail guns.
Countertops on a track that can be raised up over the window.. with or without the mitersaw. Tool boxes can still roll out and placed together in the middle for table saw that also lowers from the ceiling into place at the end of the boxes
Love my 15 and the framing nailer. Highly recommend the M12 23 gauge pin nailer!!
I just ordered the pin nailer over BF, hoping it runs as good as the bigger guns seem to!
Thank you, I am done reparing my pas load 16 gauge and off to order this one, your test was complete and very clear
Back 5 years ago, I got Ryobi 18 gauge nailer instead of Milwaukee. Then Milwaukee improved their 18 ga nailer. I decided to wait for my Ryobi to break. Never happened. Then I got Milwaukee 21 stud nailer. I couldn’t wait for them to improve their 15 ga. They did. And I got it a few weeks ago. It is a great nailer.
Ok back to my Ryobi. Like many of my Ryobi, it never breaks and has been faithful despite so much abuse. So I am sticking with it till the bitter end.
Congrats on your new toys. Enjoy them mightily.
I remember you said in a previous video you rarely use 16g compared to having a 15g and 18g, is that still true or do you have different experiences and use both now?
I would like to see you explained what 1 will you use the Brad Naylor 18 16 and 15 and 15 what they each get used for
👍🏻🍻🍺🎁🎄
Love my 18 gauge, but my older gen 1 16 gauge is not up to scratch. PLEASE tell Milwaukee to get them over to Australia!
Love the content, mate!
I had a similar problem i took off the casters and built a 2x4 platform and cut the studs in a wedge to make top of platform level or even 2x6 if you need hight
Where i live, the only place i can get milwaukee is home depot. They only carry the straight 16ga, not the angled. So i got the straight. I thought it would be hard to get into corners and stuff, but its actually quite good. Tons of power too.
Try and retro fit the wheels themselves with adjustable rolling wheels.
Great video concerning the new finish nailers. But which one should you buy. The 15 or the 16 gauge? Which application is bette if you can only buy one of them? What is your opinion.
I'm waiting on answers too
I love my 18ga version. You’re making props for Enter the Dragon remake!!
Depends....DO you want the cabinets to roll? Then you'd need to insert shims between the cabinet and casters. Not sure how the casters are attached but playing underneath the weight of the cabinets does not seem fun. Next question is...do you wish to continually clean under the cabinets? If that isn't a problem, then I'd try swapping casters for leveling feet. If you do not wish to keep cleaning, made them a platform to sit on and remove the casters. Obviously taper the lower edge of the platform to match the slope of the garage floor.
As usual awesome video. I went compressor free 2 yrs ago. I did have to use compressor just for the 15ga nail gun but everything else is Milwaukee. I used a crown stapler when I didn’t want to use compressor. I still have all power tools in the truck as back up.
My 2¢ - take the top off of the cabinets and shim them up then put them back on. Could maybe even use some of the grk door jamb screws somehow to adjust them later.
Can you give a little explanation on what you'd use each of these guns for? Such a similarly sized nail, is it really necessary to have both?
My 18g has saved me so much time and effort. Love these tools
To make leveling those tool boxes way easier, invest in 2 of the Viking Arm. They make so many jobs easier. Just be careful of all the knock offs. They should be around $200 each. I know Massca products sells them and I think Home Depot is selling them now. Best money I have spent.
I've already got the framer and 18g nailer and was wondering which one of these wold be the one to get?
I really like the new DeWaukee finish nailers you've got there!
Looking forward to your miter station build. I picked up a couple of husky rolling boxes a few months back and started on mine. Just got busy and haven’t finished it yet. Also I guess because I just don’t know how I want to do it. I did end up pulling the wheels off my buses and building a level platform for them to sit on. Looking forward to your ideas
No whistle of approval? I'm shocked! Great video, thanks Richard!
For trimming houses, cordless 18ga or pneumatic with compressor? I vote cordless, all day every day
Laser level the wall and take measurements, apply washers as needed. Boom!
(I’m not experienced)
Tool boxes, take the casters off, build a platform or frame to your desired height and set the boxes into a catch rabbit on top and set a toe kick also. Just a thought young man. Congrats on the nailers and boxes.
To level the saw station,put deminishing shimmeson on floor floor fix plywood with upstanding and lock wheels in place when ply and shimmes are levelled
Remove casters and hang them on the wall leaving room to run a dust mop under as needed. Or do a simple search for heavy duty workbench leveling feet. You can leave the casters on and outboard mount the levelers.
I had a similar problem. I just built a platform that made the top level ad added the wheels (inset) under the platform. If the workspace is going to be fixed, just leave the wheels off. You can paint the platforms to match the cabinets.
Been waiting to see more about these guns before I pulled the trigger. After watching this, I’m definitely getting that 16 ga nailer. Nice and quiet, fast, precision shooting, just seems like they nailed it (no pun)
I would make elevated blocks for three of the sets of the caster wheels to keep your work stations level straight across. Mark the floor or wall where these blocks are placed in case you want to move your workstations around and be able to quickly put them level again.
Mannn we are living in the golden age for construction, renovations and carpentry. We have carbide tipped reciprocating saw blades that cut up cast iron radiators like butter! Battery powered everything (LED lights, tablesaws, mitre saw’s, grinders etc.) that last all day! PPE And and work gear is getting a lot better for the job site, keeping us warm in the winter, cool in the summer and safe all year long!
Now if they can just give us some shop vac without a pleated filter! Something that has LEDs on the handle, remote control and also cleans the air when you want break! Dyson, Shark and Hoover etc. do a great job for the home vacuum cleaner, you don’t need bags or filters, but the jobsite is left behind! I hate shop vac with every fibre of me, but have to use them constantly.
My only complaint about these guns is that they didn't come out until well after I bought the dewalt ones.
My only problem was that I bought the first Milwaukee M18 nailers. They were the biggest pieces of trash. Milwaukee should have bought everyone of those pieces of 💩 back. This comment isn’t directed towards you but rather letting people know that Milwaukee makes crap also.
@@campbellbuilt So true. The brand name and color scheme trade mark carrying their ass so hard to the Point that everyone would buy without watching some UA-cam reviews.
Have the new 18 ga and it's amazing. Bought the framer 2 weeks ago and it's amazing. Can't wait to get my hands in the 15 ga and m12 pinner
Not going to get the 16gauge?
No I've never used a 16ga. I bought the pinner and it's amazing. I will get the 15ga also but I don't feel the need for 16 ga
Build a 3 or 4 inch high level platform down that wall to set the milwaukee tool boxes on, that way whatever you have on that wall will be level
I would take the casters off and build bases like you would for a washer and dryer, that way you would solve the level problem and you could build it to the exact height you want it. Boom 💥
Big fan, love my 18ga. Wondering if you have specific uses for the 16ga. I have my eye on the 23ga, but just bought a festool sander so….maybe after new year lol.
Use a floor jack to pick up the tool box and get it where you need to them shim it up.
Not sure how tall them boxes are and what height you like your side at but I would say if you wanted to get the wheels on then build a level platform and if that was higher then you like you can probably take wheels off and install on top or just fasten a ledger to the wall and hang the box's like cabinets. I would still leave ledger under there and then maybe get a 4x4 and scribe in 2 front legs on each box. Glad you went this route..all that money on the cut hub and leaving it in the shop seemed like a huge waste..plus I would want that on site. I was extremely happy for you guy's when you stopped cutting on your knees lol. Them milwaukee guns are awesome. I don't use a 16ga. I find myself pretty happy just running the other guns. I have the 15,18 & 23ga for trim and then the monster for small framing. I do all remodeling so we frame additions, even a few whole houses back in the day but when I'm framing all day I'm pulling out air and definitely when we are sheathing. The framing gun is awesome but crazy heavy so it's just for them small jobs or quick little task. It's crazy the power that 15ga has tho right? Can't wait to see your miter station set up brother..I'm sure it's gonna be awesome. Think it through b4 you start it tho lol. Sometimes I kick myself in the ass bc I get anxious and jump into something and then afterwards all the brilliant ideas start running through my head lol.
This may be a bit of a noob question, but when would you use each gauge? I use 18 for base and casing.. where are the 15 and 16 better for?
Thank, love the channel.
15 ga good for face nailing hardwood and stair treads and siding
Being 15 is slightly bigger than 16 do you think its worth buying both or just 1 over the other and when would you use each.... ive loved your channel since finding it!!!
I ordered the 15g a couple weeks ago the gen 1 had some negative reviews now I'm pumped!!!
If you can only get one, which one would you get? Can the 15 Guage do trim and crown?
In my garage I built a reverse sloped platform to make up the difference. Now all my cabinets and miter station are 💯 level. 17 feet by 23 inches. Growing from 1 inch to 2 1/2 inches. Now all set
Ditch the casters on the tool boxes. Then you can either level the boxes or level the top you put across the boxes.
@finish carpentry tv
Are you switching to these from your DeWalt cordless nailers or just adding to the fleet. Curious if you disliked the DeWalt nailers. Thank you. Love you channel. Nice mix of detail how to videos and tool review/ demonstrations.
did you get rid of the paslodes
the best way to level the tool boxs is to build a frame from 2x4 s and shim it level and bolt it to the floor. then put the boxs on top without the casters.
Is your idea the flexibility to move them out the way if needed. So no permanent structure for mitre saw.
If the case then get some adjustable heavy duty feet mount them near each caster but making sure on the lowest setting the wheels are free so can still roll around.
Other option level mounted work surface just above the stations on a drop leaf system so the worktop can be folded down if needed. But not sure on the work height if comfortable. Your figure it out you normally do 😉
Hello, could you explain the differences in use for the 18g,16g and 15g. Also if you where to buy only one to do multiple jobs which one would it be. Thanks.
15 and 18. Skip the 16.
15 for door installs. 18 for basically anything else, base, casing etc. It's the most versatile nailer size.
You are tall enough. Cut a sheet of 3/4 ply in half length wise. Shim the plywood on the floor to make a level surface. Then you can roll the tool boxes onto the plywood without having to modify or adjust the tool boxes in any way.
Hey Buddy. What I would do is remove the caster bolts and add some that are a tad longer. Then go get a variety of front end shims from your local auto store. Jack up the end you need to raise and slide in some shims until you're at the right height. Shims are way easier than fumbling with washers off and on. When you get it just right, Just tighten up the bolts with the shims in place and you'll be gold.
Rich
I got the Framing nailer...its a beast and heavy,Went with the Metabo 15 guage....its a champ too and nice and light...all my other cordless is Dewalt as well as my saws....
That’s exactly what I have the M18 framing and the Metabo 15g finish , both are excellent
What’s the difference of the 15 & 16 gauge? -
Sometimes the easiest method is the best method. Take the casters off the one rolling tool chest and shim them out with the heavy duty flat washers until each end of the chest is level with the other rolling tool chest. You’ll need to use different amounts depending which end of the rolling tool chest your leveling but that way both still mobile and everything is level and will play nicely with your intended miter set up. Cheers bud! Love the content
If you were to get one would you get the 15 for more strength? Love the channel. And excited to start you podcast today
so if you only could get one which one would it be?
What do you typically use the 15 vs. the 16 on? I've always used the 16 for hanging doors, but those are generally hollow core. I'm a GC and work on multiple phases, when doing finish it's usually doors, windows and base for the nailers. Just wondering if a 15 makes more sense over a 16. Great content, thanks!
I’m wondering the same thing.
I always use the 15 on interior doors. If its solid I screw and nail the hinge side. 16 for base and case.
15 for doors. 18 for trim.
Eviction Carpentry this is what I’ve usually done. Really I don’t think I knew there even was a 16g.
Have you used the older version of the Milwaukee finish nailer? I didn’t like it and I want to get the new version but I’m not sure if it’s worth it. My main complaint with the old one was toe nailing anything or sometimes it was inconsistent. Thanks for the videos and the feed back.
i'm looking into getting one for doing some tongue and groove boards and moldings and get into doing some cabinet work.
I love my 16 ga nailer..and the 20 degrees gets me right in the corner
Will the boxes and the saw insert fit across the back wall ? Your garage should be level from side to side.
Use wheel coasters that protect your carpet and cut out ply wood or rubber liner the same shape and glue them together ! Hopefully you get the idea 💡
I'm gonna run my 16 ga paslode till it's trash, but I'm definitely fed up with the maintenance, gas cartridge, and the depth adjustment isn't consistent, my DeWalt 18 ga is meh. Still waiting on M18 Tracksaw. I will definitely buy asap. I have the M18 framing nailer with extended mag, I love it.
I’m wondering if you could use the 16 for trim and quarter round instead of buying the 18 as well???
My favorite nail gun fo woodworking is my cordless pin nailer. It’s just as good as using CA glue
Have you thought about leveling casters. I know northern tool has them but it really depends on the bolt pattern of existing casters.
Looking to buy the 15g nailer for installing 3/4in oak - face nailing and toe nailing the tongue when I can't get in there with the big pneumatic stapler. If it can fire through that thick ash, it shouldn't have a problem with the oak.
What would you use the 15 gage for? Is it to big for trim?
I’ve used the older Milwaukee guns and found that you can’t limp wrist when shooting or the nails don’t set. The brad worked the best IMO. I’ve had better results with the DEWALT.
I love my 15g nailer. Never let me down. Consistent drives. Never had a jam or misfire. Can’t go wrong. Preferred over my pneumatic Bostitch
I would do a toe kick but still allow for the move ability of the chests. Build a a ramp inside where it locks down and doesn’t move. Almost like a lock inside the toe kick. When you pull the lock out you can move the chests out. You still wanna stay mobile I am assuming because you bought those.
Take the casters off put a piece of wood to shim it up (use your table saw for it) and put the casters back up! Or see if you can raise the top
I just ordered two of the 52" mobile workstations (after seeing this) because I think the clamping ability of the raised worktop will be excellent along with my miter saw. I may even router in some t-tracks.
I am curious, when using the Milwaukee m18 finish nailers, how are the nail holes? Hopefully they are not larger than the nail heads. And how do the nailers do when firing at an angle?
Nice post! Noob question... why use 15ga or 16 ga and visa versa? Thanks
I think you will really like them. 3.0ahHO battery will work great and last all day.