Great video my brother has a mazda 6 and his turbo had gone. I followed your instructions all though i didn’t take the engine out due to having no lift. I just put the back wheels on some ramps and the front on some axle stands and followed your steps taking the subframe off first then the dpf then turbo, all accessible once the subframe is removed. working under the car it took around 1 and a 1/2 hours for the subframe about 45 min for the dpf and a hour for the turbo removal and roughly the same to replace. I also removed the front bumper and intercooler as it was full of oil. I also bought a autel mk808s at £450 to reset the dpf and do a regeneration. I also cleaned it while it was of the car but what I saved on labor it was well worth it. all in it cost around £1000 to repair including the autel thanks for the informative video 👍 I think if i had to do another I would just replace the two turbo cassettes and save even more money.
Well done mate, that is exactly what this channel is about. Trying to help each other out. You also sound like a very capable man on fixing cars 💪💪 I’d give you a job any day 🙂🙂
Was about to tackle this on the road where she's parked over Christmas. (Whistling like mad, unburnt fuel on idle and boost. Reeking, will do injector seals again), maybe chuck glow plugs and new pump / tensioner. This has convinced me to hire a ramp. Was already floating on it. And i love a shortcut that adds 9 hrs 😂
Thanks for it. I should have seen it before I replaced my zylinder head gasket....it was a nightmare to not remove the engine before I disassembled the engine. 😅
As always another great video Peter..I’d wholeheartedly agree dropping the engine is the way to go but I love pain, frustration, skint arms and a sore back so I pull everything up and out the top…but to loosen bolts and all associated services for the turbo you HAVE to get underneath..there is one if not two of those bolts that hold the turbo to the block that are a right………to get at when all is on the car..that car is now as good as new and the owner was smart to get everything done while you were at it. Also I pull the entire wiring loom connectors out so never disturb the security bolts on the ECU so you’d never know I was there 🥷🤫 The whole thing is efficiency of time which for me doesn’t matter, it’s an hour here and an hour there…
That is exactly what I am at Damien, time management & speed. In and out as fast as possible 💪💪 A fellow could leave the security cover off the ECU if desired too 🤔🤔
Brilliant video, very common problem with these 2.2's mine has blown few days ago and now in the garage but small turbo blown because of the rivet on the wastegate flap, hope it isnt oil related!
If only the flap/pin has broken just drive on and replace the turbo, it will be less expensive. Plan to do the strainer and injector washers at a later date 🤔🤔
peter i wasent expecting that you pulling out the engine like there there was no tomorrow well done my friend Absolute great job. And i dont think that oil pick up done the car any Justice. nice one peter
The injector washers leak that carbon blocks the strainer & causes most of the turbo failings. Crazy that 4 small washers could save so much hardship 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ Thanks Paddy 👍
My car is in with mazda for a replacement turbo same fault code P0101 due to the failure of the diverter flap rivet failing. luckily changed under warranty along with another carbon clean hoping for less issues this time. Cannot believe that carbon can build up so quickly on these engines especially with the motorway work mine gets. Great tutorial bet mazda dont do it this way!
Thanks Dave 🙏🙏 But watch out, the turbo flap generally on gives a P0299 underboost fault 🤔🤔 Make sure to ask them about the exhaust camshaft & hydraulic tappets 🙏🙏
so sat down with my cuppa, pressed play... first thing i tought was the crates are coming out.. hahahahaha... this sooting or carbon up of oil is something that ive seen kill a few now, i personally put it down to service shedules and the irish mentality of, the next lad will service it.... and if you mention an oil change at even 10k people scoff... anyways, another very handy video, and tidy and oem as usual peter...
Thank you so much for your videos! Very educational. I was hoping you might have seen my case before and can offer some insight? I have a 2016 Mazda 6 2.2 Automatic. Recently had a p0101 error come on as well as SCBS Forward malfunction while decelerating from high speed. Got my DPF remapped in Mullingar (wish I had've known about you guys first!) and now my SCBS errors aren't happening anymore. Now I'm feeling some occasional turbo lag when accelerating. In addition, when driving 30-50km/hr it kind of jolts a bit when slowing down. Hope you have time to consider my question. Dunno if I need to give up on this car or not.
Hi Nigel, P0101 is an air flow fault. There are 3 or 4 items that can cause this issue. 1. Intake manifold blocked 2. Exhaust camshaft worn 3. Hydraulic tappets underneath the camshaft worn/soft These are very common faults and quite expensive to resolve 😬😬
Another wonderful tutorial, unfortunately a bit tougher than the vacuum pump, which I managed myself thanks to your videos - this is a bit beyond my skillset/patience/tools available. Looks like I'll have to pay to get it done. How many hours labour should this take a reasonable garage to complete?
I agree removing the engine is the best way to go changing the turbo quicker and less chance of having any problems, changing in situ would be a living nightmare and probably double the time. 👍💯
Hi mate great video. Do you know is it possible to lift the engine out instead of lowering it or will the box have to be split first? Got a cx5 withe turbo seals away and pushing oil into exhaust
Hi Ewan, I actually never tried bringing them up but I think it is quite tight. Far tighter than going down the way. You could quite possibly replace it on jack stands once the subframe is removed, it just make life that little bit easier to remove it for me 🤔🤔🤔
Great video as always and thanks for posting all this useful information. Your efforts are much appreciated. I'm struggling to find a guide to remove the turbo flap housing without removing the turbo. Any chance you could do a walkthrough on how this can be achieved? This is a well known issue on these engines that can save owners a fortune if dealt with before the rivet fails.
That is a good idea. I must make a video on it. It can be quite a fiddly job & probably take around 4 hours to do. Lots of oil feed pipes to be removed etc. But I will do a video on it as soon as I can 👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Although it may take some time to remove the flap housing most of us would prefer to go down this route as we don't have the means to remove the turbo at home. A video showing this procedure would be a game changer. Thanks again for putting the effort to share this useful information with the world.
Hi Peter, still watching your channel with interst and keep maintaining my car the best I can. Still runs smoothly and no issue with it. However at 80k miles I kinda panic thinking that the wastegate flap may fail at any time leading to an expensive repair so I'm keeping an eye to your content hoping you're going to cover this topic in one of your great videos.
Yes absolutely, the injectors aren’t underneath the rocker cover anymore & the exhaust camshaft has been revised back in style similar to the old fashioned ones that didn’t wear
Hi. I have a Mazda 3 2014 2.2 and I have the exact same wooo sound at low rpms while accelerating. No fault codes, car runs very good (just cleaned admission and egr). Guess I'm in for a turbo replace or could be repaired too? Thank you very much!
Hi Peter, Thanks for sharing your work. My Mazda 6 2.2d is currently out of action while I’ve been sorting out a blocked DPF and restricted inlet manifold etc. As I replaced a faulty sensor, I discovered that the pipe you point out @18:45 is blocked on my vehicle. I really don’t want to remove the turbos if I can help it… Is it possible to remove / unblock the tube / banjo bolt without removing the turbos? Thanks, Josh
Hi Josh, yes it is possible to change the exhaust pressure pipe with removing the turbo. I will put in a link video below. But I would probably try to clean it first with some ‘ brake cleaner or paint thinner ‘ and a small steel wire. Because it is quite difficult to replace. The very best of luck with it though 🤞🤞🤞 You definitely need compressed air to clean the manifold & ports, let me how you get on too 👍👍
Hi Peter, I have been watching your videos on Mazda's for a while now, and they are great. Do you have any advice on what to do to remove the dpf for cleaning? Can the removal be done easily? Thanks, Paul
Hi Paul, thank you very much for watching my videos 🙏🙏 Removal of the dpf from the 2.2 Skyactive engine is relatively easy to do. But an on vehicle chemical clean is quite often enough to remove soot particulates. The big question you need to ask is why is the dpf blocked. The most common cause is the exhaust camshaft being worn, causing incomplete combustion & more soot particles than expected. Which in turn causes the Dpf to be overloaded with soot. Does that help in anyway??
Hi Peter, all those things are ok. Believe it or not the fuel injectors were shot at 83000 kilometers, and was causing the dpf regen every 40 kilometers, even though the car was doing long trips. Replaced the injectors and it has been behaving well doing a regen around 240 kilometers, and stopped the oil dilution too. I would like to clean the dpf though as a preventative measure.
Hi Peter. I have a Mazda 2.2 GJ 2014 and I have had a problem with the turbine for some time. The problem is manifested by the noise (howl) of the turbine above 3000RPM. It is most audible in third or fourth gear. The things recently done to the car include inspection of the vacuum hoses, replacement of the vacuum pump, and cleaning of the intake manifold. My mechanic indicates a failure of the turbine itself. There are no errors, the car accelerates normally. I see that you have a lot of knowledge about this engine model, tell me what else should be checked? Is it possible that the vacuum relay/valves are defective or turbine itself? 
The only reason you will get a howl or whine from one of the turbos is due to either the turbo shaft being worn and the turbines rubbing off the turbo body or the turbine blades being damaged for some reason. So yes unfortunately you will most likely need to replace the complete turbo charger 😬😬😬😬 It is quite a big job
Watched this twice love ya videis .... i personally changed the exhaust sensor but p2262 still came up with limp (tirbo kit was done ) i attempted the pipe myself but at the time had no long reach spanners for heat shield ..garage in the end done it i was pissed off as they should've checked it when turbo was done. Again said it was clear (gave them new 1 to fit ) bollocks aa id trued cleaning . Lots if soot plus comoressed air didnt foow through it .....p2262 not cone on since ........after a regen turbo feels great but im thinking my injectors (3 of) are worn as i get more frequent regens . Read that bad combustion can cause more regens . As ive said recently, i repoaced glow plugs (cylinder 2 was reluctant but sorted ) ......ill drop sump when its a bit warmer /dryer ........but have you personally changed egr coolers a lot ? I truly believe mine may be failing . Heaters get hot . Ive flushed system twice . New thermostat condensor belt and coolant sensor regassed ..ill try the dye trick again to see if i can find a leak . Ive got pressure when cold . Hg was reppaced under 2 yeads ago ..coolant occasionally rises in expansion tank ..ty and happy new year buddy
@kennedysgarage3281 I had it reppaced under 2 years ago ..I've read egr coolers give the same symptoms..the car pulls well ..oil is fine . The garage who done the hg had head pressure tested /skimmed didn't say whether the gasket was actually bad ..I hear occasionally whine noises which cam really onky be an egr noise say the flap ir another part of egr as there's 2 .........there's def moisture at tail
@kennedysgarage3281 oh god not good mate ..I'm aware a partially blocked dof can cause coolant issues ......its not all the time but pressure is always there of late ..really frustrating having spent so much on the thing ........egr's alone can cause overheating so maybe another check of its cleanliness it would (if bad again or not working correctly say staying closed/open etc can cause more frequent regens . .....I don't doubt you're right as you've done your fair share of car fixes ..the main egr on the front is 270 new ..easy reppacement.......I hear a groan noise which seemed to go away but returned . Amd it sounds like it's from thar area ..but only when driving mostly at lower speeds where egrs often operate ..ty for the reply ..mate
@kennedysgarage3281 I'm.hoping to get a tidy diagnostic tool.so9n which will give me live data . I do get a smell of tunes at tail which can also indicate a running rich scenario..I.e. egr maf etc ty again let you know ok
Did you reuse the old gaskets?I have this repare coming up using an refurbished turbo,but i dont know if i have to order new gasket or reuse the old ones.
@@user-df9lm3cy2m I use the old gaskets all the time, so no gaskets needed. It can be done in 8 hours if you are familiar with it & move fast. I’d give 10 for a little leeway 😉👍👍👍
Hi peter, ive a cx5 that i replaced the turbo on because it broke the low pressure tutbo actutar and wrecked the fins with a fully reconditioned turbo from a reputable company 2 months. It has now broke the actutar agsin and wrecked the fins again. Everything was washed out and i did retrieve the broke bolt of the old actutar after repacing it the 1st time round.The turbo company is standing over it but have you seen this before in a short space of time.
I actually have seen this with the bolt or screw on pin. It was replaced to avoid it falling off or breaking but only created the issue 4 weeks later 😬😬 Anyone that knows these turbos will always put a spot of weld on the pin and not to stop it from loosening. Are the turbo company removing it too or do you have to do that 🤔
The answer is not as straightforward as that. P2262 is boost pressure not detected, that could be caused by the intake/MAP sensor being blocked. At least that is the most common cause. So check that 1st and let me know how you go 🤞🤞
Hello, we have a 2013 Mazda 6 2.2 diesel which we took in for a service a few weeks ago to the Mazda dealership. They said it had no oomph up hills (we hadn't experienced that) and now they say the turbo is seized, and needs a new one plus exhaust camshafts, new injectors etc. First quote was was £7,700 and reduced to £5,700 after we argued about it. This car only has 60k miles on it and we have owned it for 2.5 years. We are nowhere near your garage sadly. Googling seems to say this is a common problem with this engine...! What do you think we should do?
Hi Julia, the exhaust camshafts do wear but mostly after 80k miles or 130k kms. I assume you have the car back and still driving it when you had no prior symptoms?? I would possibly look for a second opinion, the turbos do also fail on them but you should be getting lots of warning lights & P0299 underboost fault. I would drive it for a day or two, then get a ‘complete system code scan’ by an independent garage. Just for information. Don’t replace the injectors they don’t fail too often 🤔🤔🤔 Hopefully this might help a little 🤞
Thanks for getting back to me - much appreciated. No warning lights whatsoever before this. The Mazda dealership garage took the injector pipes and seals off, said they would need to ft new new ones (£300) so we told them to put the old pipes back on (with new seals as they had thrown the others away). We are bemused by the whole thing and shocked by the cost too. Will get some independent advice. Thank you!
Hi mate I’m in the middle of putting all the pipes back on to my turbo of my cx5 2.2 skyactive and I’ve hit a bit of a snag 🤦♂️. There is one of the big banjo bolts with a smaller hole than all the rest any idea where this one goes mate. Thanks 👍
@@ewanreynolds8163 the can be quite a bit involved in turbo replacement on these, you could spend an hour or more swoping pipes on the bench. Well done for figuring it out Ewan & happy new year mate 🍻🍻
@@kennedysgarage3281 Mate I spent most of the day cleaning all the pipes before refitting them due to oil contamination 🤦♂️. Happy new year to you aswell mate and thanks for the videos 👍
Hi Shaun, it will cost anywhere from €2000 to €3000 depending on the shops hourly rate. Engine out is the easiest and best approach. Also confirm what caused the failure before you replace it 😉👍👍👍
The 2.2 diesel skyactive has a few common issues, carbon build up at intake, exhaust cam shaft worn, carbon build up blocks oil pickup due to injector washers and oil pump chain :-( sadly I learnt all this the hard way, but Peter sorted me out. The ONLY garage I'd trust to resolve these issues. Other than that, there a lovely car 🙂
@@irelandshane1984 I started reading this comment and was thinking this guy really knows his stuff 🤔🤔 Then I realised you were down with me 😱😂😂 Thanks Shane 🙏🙏
@@irelandshane1984 yeah that's what I meant , thanks Do you know if they resolved most of these issues with their Diesel engines for late 2018? models?
Hi i have throtle body fault code p2118:00-27pedal position fault P0222:00-AF and sensor reference voltage B circuit low P0652:00-AF last one is U401:00-8A invalid data received from ECM/PCM car dont have power ??? I did chains camshaft and rockers and still can find problem help
@@Amelias_luvz Is there any chance that you left the throttle body down low on the intake manifold unplugged while working on it 🤔🤔🤔 I have done this myself 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
I think that stupid thing in behind the wing liner has something to do with regenerative braking has a coil that chargers up during braking havnt clue how it work thing under the wing that looks like a bomb 😂
@@kennedysgarage3281 if only they put more energy into making a good engine. Instead of but shit braking systems. Any ways its makes for interesting videos 😂
It is generally the same issue on these engines. Option 1. Injector washers leak, carbon builds up under the rocker cover & blocks the oil strainer Option 2. Simple mechanical failure of the biturbo change over flap pin. This can damage damage the smaller high pressure turbine. This is what happened in my cause. Very common failure item 😉 Happy new year 🎉🎉
@@TrailVapor no, nothing fancy like that. Compression leaking up by the side of the injectors builds up ‘tar’ like carbon between the cylinder head & the rocker cover. Then this carbon gets mixed with the oil that is being pumped up around the camshaft. Then causes the strainer to get blocked, hence a reduction in oil pressure for the turbo & bearings etc. Make sense??
@@kennedysgarage3281 ah: so copper washer seals to head then rocker cover has seals higher up injector body. Thank you (spraying soapy water around injector can't indicate copper washer leak then!)
That's exactly why I would never ever purchased any car with a turbo system, they tend to blow out veryyy easily... Screw both turbo and they cheap engine
The 2.2D Skyactive engine was a freakin disaster from 2012 to 2018, both 150 and 175hp versions with 2 turbos,2 egr valves,poor design of the exhaust cam,i mean wtf was in their minds to conceive such a crappy engine. As a mechanic and also as an ex customer i am very disappointed with this engine.
Great video my brother has a mazda 6 and his turbo had gone. I followed your instructions all though i didn’t take the engine out due to having no lift. I just put the back wheels on some ramps and the front on some axle stands and followed your steps taking the subframe off first then the dpf then turbo, all accessible once the subframe is removed. working under the car it took around 1 and a 1/2 hours for the subframe about 45 min for the dpf and a hour for the turbo removal and roughly the same to replace. I also removed the front bumper and intercooler as it was full of oil. I also bought a autel mk808s at £450 to reset the dpf and do a regeneration. I also cleaned it while it was of the car but what I saved on labor it was well worth it. all in it cost around £1000 to repair including the autel thanks for the informative video 👍 I think if i had to do another I would just replace the two turbo cassettes and save even more money.
Well done mate, that is exactly what this channel is about. Trying to help each other out. You also sound like a very capable man on fixing cars 💪💪
I’d give you a job any day 🙂🙂
Was about to tackle this on the road where she's parked over Christmas. (Whistling like mad, unburnt fuel on idle and boost. Reeking, will do injector seals again), maybe chuck glow plugs and new pump / tensioner.
This has convinced me to hire a ramp. Was already floating on it. And i love a shortcut that adds 9 hrs 😂
Always great content on the quickest way to do the job Peter 👏🏽 👌
People do some suffering with trying to do these in situ but I’m just getting too old for that kinda messing 😂😂
Cheers Peter 🙏🙏
Excellent much awaited video Peter..thank you very much
Hopefully it helps 🤞🤞
I have been a mobile mechanic for a couple of years and I forgot how useful the lift is to drop out the engine and box. Cheers Matt
These Mazda’s are are great, nothing to snag on when the subframe is removed Matt. Cheers mate 🙏🙏
Great walkthrough Peter , Thanks for sharing .... ..
It Might help someday 🤞🤞👍
Thanks for it.
I should have seen it before I replaced my zylinder head gasket....it was a nightmare to not remove the engine before I disassembled the engine. 😅
As always another great video Peter..I’d wholeheartedly agree dropping the engine is the way to go but I love pain, frustration, skint arms and a sore back so I pull everything up and out the top…but to loosen bolts and all associated services for the turbo you HAVE to get underneath..there is one if not two of those bolts that hold the turbo to the block that are a right………to get at when all is on the car..that car is now as good as new and the owner was smart to get everything done while you were at it. Also I pull the entire wiring loom connectors out so never disturb the security bolts on the ECU so you’d never know I was there 🥷🤫 The whole thing is efficiency of time which for me doesn’t matter, it’s an hour here and an hour there…
That is exactly what I am at Damien, time management & speed. In and out as fast as possible 💪💪
A fellow could leave the security cover off the ECU if desired too 🤔🤔
Did you pulled it out from the top without dropping subframe
@@krzysiekp9753 I drop the subframe off first & then drop the engine and gearbox down. It is quite easy to do
Brilliant video, very common problem with these 2.2's mine has blown few days ago and now in the garage but small turbo blown because of the rivet on the wastegate flap, hope it isnt oil related!
If only the flap/pin has broken just drive on and replace the turbo, it will be less expensive. Plan to do the strainer and injector washers at a later date 🤔🤔
Good to see the process 👍🏼 Thanks
You are more than welcome Dave & thank you for watching & commenting 🙏🙏
peter i wasent expecting that you pulling out the engine like there there was no tomorrow well done my friend Absolute great job. And i dont think that oil pick up done the car any Justice. nice one peter
The injector washers leak that carbon blocks the strainer & causes most of the turbo failings. Crazy that 4 small washers could save so much hardship 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Thanks Paddy 👍
Finally the frigging mileage for your videos, thank you
😂😂😂😂 you must love knowing the mileage
Brilliant video again Peter,very useful for us mere mortals 😊thanks for sharing 👌👍
It might help on that Mazda if it comes in Richard 😂😂😂
Although your probably thinking, don’t come in - don’t come in - don’t come in 🤞🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 yep it definitely will Peter plus no doubt about 10 phone calls😁
@@richardmcwhirter9396 a man of your calibre needs very little assistance or advice 💪💪💪
My car is in with mazda for a replacement turbo same fault code P0101 due to the failure of the diverter flap rivet failing. luckily changed under warranty along with another carbon clean hoping for less issues this time. Cannot believe that carbon can build up so quickly on these engines especially with the motorway work mine gets. Great tutorial bet mazda dont do it this way!
Thanks Dave 🙏🙏
But watch out, the turbo flap generally on gives a P0299 underboost fault 🤔🤔
Make sure to ask them about the exhaust camshaft & hydraulic tappets 🙏🙏
so sat down with my cuppa, pressed play... first thing i tought was the crates are coming out.. hahahahaha... this sooting or carbon up of oil is something that ive seen kill a few now, i personally put it down to service shedules and the irish mentality of, the next lad will service it.... and if you mention an oil change at even 10k people scoff... anyways, another very handy video, and tidy and oem as usual peter...
The weekend video & a cuppa. Nothing wrong with that Lar 🙏🙏👍
If you don’t have the facilities to drop the engine, you can do it in place with the subframe off. Much easier with the engine out though!
This is what I find, it just saves holding your arms over your head for 2 hours or so 😂😂😂😂
Thank you so much for your videos! Very educational. I was hoping you might have seen my case before and can offer some insight?
I have a 2016 Mazda 6 2.2 Automatic. Recently had a p0101 error come on as well as SCBS Forward malfunction while decelerating from high speed. Got my DPF remapped in Mullingar (wish I had've known about you guys first!) and now my SCBS errors aren't happening anymore.
Now I'm feeling some occasional turbo lag when accelerating. In addition, when driving 30-50km/hr it kind of jolts a bit when slowing down.
Hope you have time to consider my question. Dunno if I need to give up on this car or not.
Hi Nigel, P0101 is an air flow fault. There are 3 or 4 items that can cause this issue.
1. Intake manifold blocked
2. Exhaust camshaft worn
3. Hydraulic tappets underneath the camshaft worn/soft
These are very common faults and quite expensive to resolve 😬😬
Another wonderful tutorial, unfortunately a bit tougher than the vacuum pump, which I managed myself thanks to your videos - this is a bit beyond my skillset/patience/tools available.
Looks like I'll have to pay to get it done.
How many hours labour should this take a reasonable garage to complete?
Around 10 to 12 all going well
I agree removing the engine is the best way to go changing the turbo quicker and less chance of having any problems, changing in situ would be a living nightmare and probably double the time. 👍💯
A fellow would have some pain in his arms and neck after 8 hrs of that 😂😂😂
Cheers John 🙏🙏
But it is possible to change it without removing an whole engine
@@krzysiekp9753 yes but near impossible. You will do lots of cursing 🤬 🤬🤬
@@kennedysgarage3281 just did it not that bad but have to remove wipers etc and is coming out easy 3h to get it out thru the top
@@krzysiekp9753 well done, hats off to you. Lots of fiddly bolts in there 💪💪
Could you also possibly make a video on how to correctly torque down the fuel injectors after replacing the washers?
This would be a great tutorial 👍
Yeah agree, that would be great.
I will do that on my next one 👍👍👍
Hi mate great video.
Do you know is it possible to lift the engine out instead of lowering it or will the box have to be split first? Got a cx5 withe turbo seals away and pushing oil into exhaust
Hi Ewan, I actually never tried bringing them up but I think it is quite tight. Far tighter than going down the way.
You could quite possibly replace it on jack stands once the subframe is removed, it just make life that little bit easier to remove it for me 🤔🤔🤔
Great video as always and thanks for posting all this useful information. Your efforts are much appreciated. I'm struggling to find a guide to remove the turbo flap housing without removing the turbo. Any chance you could do a walkthrough on how this can be achieved? This is a well known issue on these engines that can save owners a fortune if dealt with before the rivet fails.
That is a good idea. I must make a video on it. It can be quite a fiddly job & probably take around 4 hours to do. Lots of oil feed pipes to be removed etc.
But I will do a video on it as soon as I can 👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Although it may take some time to remove the flap housing most of us would prefer to go down this route as we don't have the means to remove the turbo at home. A video showing this procedure would be a game changer. Thanks again for putting the effort to share this useful information with the world.
@@vrabievalentin4071 keep an eye out for it 😉👍👍👍
Hi Peter, still watching your channel with interst and keep maintaining my car the best I can. Still runs smoothly and no issue with it. However at 80k miles I kinda panic thinking that the wastegate flap may fail at any time leading to an expensive repair so I'm keeping an eye to your content hoping you're going to cover this topic in one of your great videos.
@@vrabievalentin4071 it is really tight and tricky to record but I will do a video on it soon 🙏🙏
Great video as always, do you think the late 2018 Mazda 6 2.2D is more reliable than the 2017 version?
Yes absolutely, the injectors aren’t underneath the rocker cover anymore & the exhaust camshaft has been revised back in style similar to the old fashioned ones that didn’t wear
Appreciate your insight greatly@@kennedysgarage3281
Hi Peter, quick question is, how mach time you spend for take out and put it back? Thank you
Going well, you could do it in around 8 hours
Hi. I have a Mazda 3 2014 2.2 and I have the exact same wooo sound at low rpms while accelerating. No fault codes, car runs very good (just cleaned admission and egr). Guess I'm in for a turbo replace or could be repaired too? Thank you very much!
If it’s making that wooo sound but driving ok, then the blades on the small turbo most likely got damaged at some stage. It might be ok for a while 🤞🤞
Hi Peter,
Thanks for sharing your work. My Mazda 6 2.2d is currently out of action while I’ve been sorting out a blocked DPF and restricted inlet manifold etc. As I replaced a faulty sensor, I discovered that the pipe you point out @18:45 is blocked on my vehicle. I really don’t want to remove the turbos if I can help it… Is it possible to remove / unblock the tube / banjo bolt without removing the turbos? Thanks,
Josh
Hi Josh, yes it is possible to change the exhaust pressure pipe with removing the turbo. I will put in a link video below. But I would probably try to clean it first with some ‘ brake cleaner or paint thinner ‘ and a small steel wire. Because it is quite difficult to replace. The very best of luck with it though 🤞🤞🤞
You definitely need compressed air to clean the manifold & ports, let me how you get on too 👍👍
Mazda 6 reduced power fault finding
ua-cam.com/video/P1hHacaWdSY/v-deo.html
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thank you so much.
Great video, where are you based, im in carlow myself. my car has the same issue as this and will need it done.
I’m in Waterford, sorry for the delayed response. Hopefully you got sorted 🤞🤞
Hi Peter, I have been watching your videos on Mazda's for a while now, and they are great. Do you have any advice on what to do to remove the dpf for cleaning? Can the removal be done easily? Thanks, Paul
Hi Paul, thank you very much for watching my videos 🙏🙏
Removal of the dpf from the 2.2 Skyactive engine is relatively easy to do. But an on vehicle chemical clean is quite often enough to remove soot particulates.
The big question you need to ask is why is the dpf blocked.
The most common cause is the exhaust camshaft being worn, causing incomplete combustion & more soot particles than expected. Which in turn causes the Dpf to be overloaded with soot. Does that help in anyway??
Hi Peter, all those things are ok. Believe it or not the fuel injectors were shot at 83000 kilometers, and was causing the dpf regen every 40 kilometers, even though the car was doing long trips. Replaced the injectors and it has been behaving well doing a regen around 240 kilometers, and stopped the oil dilution too. I would like to clean the dpf though as a preventative measure.
Hi Peter. I have a Mazda 2.2 GJ 2014 and I have had a problem with the turbine for some time. The problem is manifested by the noise (howl) of the turbine above 3000RPM. It is most audible in third or fourth gear. The things recently done to the car include inspection of the vacuum hoses, replacement of the vacuum pump, and cleaning of the intake manifold. My mechanic indicates a failure of the turbine itself. There are no errors, the car accelerates normally. I see that you have a lot of knowledge about this engine model, tell me what else should be checked? Is it possible that the vacuum relay/valves are defective or turbine itself?

The only reason you will get a howl or whine from one of the turbos is due to either the turbo shaft being worn and the turbines rubbing off the turbo body or the turbine blades being damaged for some reason.
So yes unfortunately you will most likely need to replace the complete turbo charger 😬😬😬😬
It is quite a big job
Watched this twice love ya videis .... i personally changed the exhaust sensor but p2262 still came up with limp (tirbo kit was done ) i attempted the pipe myself but at the time had no long reach spanners for heat shield ..garage in the end done it i was pissed off as they should've checked it when turbo was done. Again said it was clear (gave them new 1 to fit ) bollocks aa id trued cleaning . Lots if soot plus comoressed air didnt foow through it .....p2262 not cone on since ........after a regen turbo feels great but im thinking my injectors (3 of) are worn as i get more frequent regens . Read that bad combustion can cause more regens . As ive said recently, i repoaced glow plugs (cylinder 2 was reluctant but sorted ) ......ill drop sump when its a bit warmer /dryer ........but have you personally changed egr coolers a lot ? I truly believe mine may be failing . Heaters get hot . Ive flushed system twice . New thermostat condensor belt and coolant sensor regassed ..ill try the dye trick again to see if i can find a leak . Ive got pressure when cold . Hg was reppaced under 2 yeads ago ..coolant occasionally rises in expansion tank ..ty and happy new year buddy
Hopefully the cylinder head gasket isn’t gone 🤞🤞🤞
That is a big undertaking 😬😬😬
@kennedysgarage3281 I had it reppaced under 2 years ago ..I've read egr coolers give the same symptoms..the car pulls well ..oil is fine . The garage who done the hg had head pressure tested /skimmed didn't say whether the gasket was actually bad ..I hear occasionally whine noises which cam really onky be an egr noise say the flap ir another part of egr as there's 2 .........there's def moisture at tail
@@kevinhancock4064 unfortunately Kevin I have never seen an egr cooler fail in one of these 😩😩😩
@kennedysgarage3281 oh god not good mate ..I'm aware a partially blocked dof can cause coolant issues ......its not all the time but pressure is always there of late ..really frustrating having spent so much on the thing ........egr's alone can cause overheating so maybe another check of its cleanliness it would (if bad again or not working correctly say staying closed/open etc can cause more frequent regens . .....I don't doubt you're right as you've done your fair share of car fixes ..the main egr on the front is 270 new ..easy reppacement.......I hear a groan noise which seemed to go away but returned . Amd it sounds like it's from thar area ..but only when driving mostly at lower speeds where egrs often operate ..ty for the reply ..mate
@kennedysgarage3281 I'm.hoping to get a tidy diagnostic tool.so9n which will give me live data . I do get a smell of tunes at tail which can also indicate a running rich scenario..I.e. egr maf etc ty again let you know ok
Did you reuse the old gaskets?I have this repare coming up using an refurbished turbo,but i dont know if i have to order new gasket or reuse the old ones.
The shop are ment to use 8 hours replasing the turbo and DPF,but is that realistic?
@@user-df9lm3cy2m I use the old gaskets all the time, so no gaskets needed.
It can be done in 8 hours if you are familiar with it & move fast. I’d give 10 for a little leeway 😉👍👍👍
Hi peter, ive a cx5 that i replaced the turbo on because it broke the low pressure tutbo actutar and wrecked the fins with a fully reconditioned turbo from a reputable company 2 months. It has now broke the actutar agsin and wrecked the fins again. Everything was washed out and i did retrieve the broke bolt of the old actutar after repacing it the 1st time round.The turbo company is standing over it but have you seen this before in a short space of time.
I actually have seen this with the bolt or screw on pin. It was replaced to avoid it falling off or breaking but only created the issue 4 weeks later 😬😬
Anyone that knows these turbos will always put a spot of weld on the pin and not to stop it from loosening.
Are the turbo company removing it too or do you have to do that 🤔
Hi mate p2262 fault with a lot of exhaust smoke after 2000 revs and engine light on? Is this the turbo?
The answer is not as straightforward as that. P2262 is boost pressure not detected, that could be caused by the intake/MAP sensor being blocked. At least that is the most common cause. So check that 1st and let me know how you go 🤞🤞
Hello, we have a 2013 Mazda 6 2.2 diesel which we took in for a service a few weeks ago to the Mazda dealership. They said it had no oomph up hills (we hadn't experienced that) and now they say the turbo is seized, and needs a new one plus exhaust camshafts, new injectors etc. First quote was was £7,700 and reduced to £5,700 after we argued about it. This car only has 60k miles on it and we have owned it for 2.5 years. We are nowhere near your garage sadly. Googling seems to say this is a common problem with this engine...! What do you think we should do?
Hi Julia, the exhaust camshafts do wear but mostly after 80k miles or 130k kms. I assume you have the car back and still driving it when you had no prior symptoms??
I would possibly look for a second opinion, the turbos do also fail on them but you should be getting lots of warning lights & P0299 underboost fault.
I would drive it for a day or two, then get a ‘complete system code scan’ by an independent garage. Just for information.
Don’t replace the injectors they don’t fail too often 🤔🤔🤔
Hopefully this might help a little 🤞
Thanks for getting back to me - much appreciated. No warning lights whatsoever before this. The Mazda dealership garage took the injector pipes and seals off, said they would need to ft new new ones (£300) so we told them to put the old pipes back on (with new seals as they had thrown the others away). We are bemused by the whole thing and shocked by the cost too. Will get some independent advice. Thank you!
@@juliabrundell8161 the very best of luck with it & let me know if you need any more information 😉👍👍
Hi could you tell me is it possible to remove dpf on mazda 6 2.2 skyactiv without dropping subframe
Yes. Removing the Dpf is possible. Slightly tight but possible 👍
Can you show me please the vacuum hoses how they go back on the turbo I think I put them wrong and is coming up with code p2263 thank you
I will do a video on that as soon as I can 😉👍👍
What sort of price are you looking at for a full swap then? I’m imagining in the reason of €2,000?
You are pretty exact at that, but it is wise to pinpoint these for failure first. ( ie. Is the oil strainer blocked??? )
Hi mate I’m in the middle of putting all the pipes back on to my turbo of my cx5 2.2 skyactive and I’ve hit a bit of a snag 🤦♂️.
There is one of the big banjo bolts with a smaller hole than all the rest any idea where this one goes mate.
Thanks 👍
Worked it out from my photos mate the banjo bolt with the small hole has a red dot marked on the head of the bolt
@@ewanreynolds8163 the can be quite a bit involved in turbo replacement on these, you could spend an hour or more swoping pipes on the bench. Well done for figuring it out Ewan & happy new year mate 🍻🍻
@@kennedysgarage3281
Mate I spent most of the day cleaning all the pipes before refitting them due to oil contamination 🤦♂️.
Happy new year to you aswell mate and thanks for the videos 👍
@@ewanreynolds8163 🙏🙏
Whats the cost of getting this done? I have the same car with the same issues
Hi Shaun, it will cost anywhere from €2000 to €3000 depending on the shops hourly rate. Engine out is the easiest and best approach. Also confirm what caused the failure before you replace it 😉👍👍👍
Are these cars very common or are they just not a good car? After seeing a good few of them on the channel.
The 2.2 diesel skyactive has a few common issues, carbon build up at intake, exhaust cam shaft worn, carbon build up blocks oil pickup due to injector washers and oil pump chain :-( sadly I learnt all this the hard way, but Peter sorted me out. The ONLY garage I'd trust to resolve these issues. Other than that, there a lovely car 🙂
@@irelandshane1984 I started reading this comment and was thinking this guy really knows his stuff 🤔🤔
Then I realised you were down with me 😱😂😂
Thanks Shane 🙏🙏
crazy, what year was this? @@irelandshane1984
@@torypryce do you mean what year is the car? its 2016.
@@irelandshane1984 yeah that's what I meant , thanks
Do you know if they resolved most of these issues with their Diesel engines for late 2018? models?
Hi i have throtle body fault code p2118:00-27pedal position fault P0222:00-AF and sensor reference voltage B circuit low P0652:00-AF last one is U401:00-8A invalid data received from ECM/PCM car dont have power ??? I did chains camshaft and rockers and still can find problem help
Did injectors seals aswell
@@Amelias_luvz Is there any chance that you left the throttle body down low on the intake manifold unplugged while working on it 🤔🤔🤔
I have done this myself 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
I have just had this exact issue on my one and it was the exhaust pressure sensor causing it single hose one easy to access from the top
@@zackjoblin6965 hey Zack, that exhaust pressure sensor fails very often & the pipe leading to it blocks quite often too 😉😉
where was the turbo from please?
I use a couple of suppliers, Turbos direct or Driveshaft services are good 😉👍👍
I think that stupid thing in behind the wing liner has something to do with regenerative braking has a coil that chargers up during braking havnt clue how it work thing under the wing that looks like a bomb 😂
Oooh, I know nothing about it either but it sounds good🤔🤔
All to do with this ‘i-stop’ interesting, thanks Eoghan 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 if only they put more energy into making a good engine. Instead of but shit braking systems. Any ways its makes for interesting videos 😂
Why did the turbo fail, insufficient oil changes?
It is generally the same issue on these engines.
Option 1. Injector washers leak, carbon builds up under the rocker cover & blocks the oil strainer
Option 2. Simple mechanical failure of the biturbo change over flap pin. This can damage damage the smaller high pressure turbine. This is what happened in my cause.
Very common failure item 😉
Happy new year 🎉🎉
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for taking time to reply. So leak causes rich running then incomplete combustion then carbon deposits
@@TrailVapor no, nothing fancy like that. Compression leaking up by the side of the injectors builds up ‘tar’ like carbon between the cylinder head & the rocker cover. Then this carbon gets mixed with the oil that is being pumped up around the camshaft. Then causes the strainer to get blocked, hence a reduction in oil pressure for the turbo & bearings etc.
Make sense??
@@kennedysgarage3281 ah: so copper washer seals to head then rocker cover has seals higher up injector body. Thank you (spraying soapy water around injector can't indicate copper washer leak then!)
@@kennedysgarage3281 how do we preempt injector copper washer failure, is there a DTC?
Sir You are mazda specialist in 😅
My garage has now become like a Mazda dealership 💪💪🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 ok sir👏👌
@@lovepreetsinghhanjra1997 thanks Lovepreet 🙏🙏
That's exactly why I would never ever purchased any car with a turbo system, they tend to blow out veryyy easily... Screw both turbo and they cheap engine
It is hard to find an engine without a turbocharger nowadays 😬😬😬
The 2.2D Skyactive engine was a freakin disaster from 2012 to 2018, both 150 and 175hp versions with 2 turbos,2 egr valves,poor design of the exhaust cam,i mean wtf was in their minds to conceive such a crappy engine.
As a mechanic and also as an ex customer i am very disappointed with this engine.
The whole damn engine should be replaced. Mazda make terrible diesels.
I’m actually getting great success with these engines. They are expensive to get right but I am getting around a 90 to 95 percent first time fix 🤔🤔