XC GXL Part 33
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- Опубліковано 24 чер 2024
- Getting there with Alice Springs centre Nate coming up and a stack of other commitments I'm trying to get as much done as possible This part see the centre console finished and we have a problem with the speedo with turned out to be a defective new cable
Cheers Blue
Hi Blue, I really enjoy your vids & they’ve been very helpful. I also have an XC Fairmont GXL 5.8. Cheers mate, Mark, Canberra
Cheers mate much appreciated 👍
Hi Blue Nice work on the XC it looks really good and is a credit to you doing so much of the work yourself . I also had issues with my speedo back in the day when I went from a 3 speed manual to a four speed manual in my Fairmont , there was small gear on the speedo cable inside the gearbox and there are different colours of these gears for different gear ratios. You've probably got it sorted out by now anyway .Cheers .
Cheers mate the issue was the new speedo cable that I fitted it wouldn’t insert into the speedo drive itself.
I ended up pulling the core out of the cable and filing down the square drive to fit into the speedo on the bench.
The car has 7K on it now and the speedo is 3 percent low, I changed the drive cog to suit the new wheels which are 15 inch up from the 14 inch in the videos
Thanks for your input
Blue
Ive had speedo problems before, and reinserting the cable all the way into the back pf the gauge got it working again. Question: Is that T5 box you're using the 6 cylinder variant ? as mine is out of an AU XR8 and i had to use an adaptor plate because of the input shaft length, which pushes the box back. (I haven't fitted it yet) I' will need to pull the console back a fair bit. You haven't had to do that, have you ?
G’day mate,
All ford T5’s pretty much the same internals some differences over the years like a reverse synchro were fitted yours will have one the one in the GXL doesn’t.
My gearbox cross member is modified to adapt to the T5 the guy I bought it off cut the mount point of one cross member and welded into another. If you have a look at the very first video there might be a shot of it that you can pause and get a look. That said the XC Ute currently under build is also getting a T5 and this time I have bought a kit from Dellow which has an adapter plate that looks like you bolt in I haven’t had a chance to get into it yet. You will have to cut out some more of the Turret to fit the T5 selector into the car. As for the input shaft they may have been different for the Windsor over the E/Barra but I’m not sure I know they fitted steel input shaft housings to mustangs in the states I was looking to fit one to reduce clutch bearing drag but went away from that idea and fitted a Mal Wood hydraulic throw bearing instead sorry I can’t remember which part of the series that’s in.
I hope that helps,
Cheers Blue
@@BluesShed Yeah the XR8 box input shaft is about 30 mm longer and the shifter is further back than the 6 position as well. It actually putsthe gearstick in a good posotion for me, but the console will be a big problem i think. i got the dellow adaptor plate & rear gearbox extension adaptor plate, i think mine is to be welded on the back of the X member. How have these 6 cylinder boxes held up behind the V8, broken one yet ?
@@BluesShed I bought a single rail at the same time ( about 10 years ago) but i have my doubts about whether it will hold up behind a warm Cleveland. At least it bolts straight up though !
@@Gokizzmass Mate I bought mine second hand in 2003 with the bell housing and mount from a gearbox repairer in St Mary’s He had it in an XD 6 cylinder. I have done numerous fun and safety days in Cairns with the car up till 2013 when I stared the rebuild NO Probs behind the 351 and don’t forget that the T5 were fitted to the BA XR6T. I can’t remember which parts I covered the rebuild of the T5 in but I go through the how to strengthen the T5 with the Billet cluster retaining plate. Look up Eric the Car guy on youtube he does a blow by blow on how to rebuild the T5 with the bloke who literally wrote the book and came up with the mod to strengthen the T5. Yours has the same internals as all ford T5s the chev versions had slip bearing’s in the early days apparently don’t quote me. If you’re not going over 400 Hp and dragging it as long as it’s internally good I see no probs. Also look at Carnage Turbo AU that that flogged down the strip numerous time with a stock T5 of unknown condition which didn’t break.
I hope this helps and be ware of getting advice from anyone who hasn’t actually done the job themselves
Cheers Blue
@@BluesShed Cheers Blue, i think you're referring to World Class & non- World Class models. The Oz fords were all the former from what I've read with the tapered roller bearing on the input shaft being the main noticeable difference. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the update Blue.
I think the assembly phase of the build is the most exciting. it really gives you the opportunity to go through each individual part, assess it, clean, fix and test before fitting it up.
I'm sure the car is amazing to drive and to look at. Can't wait for the final video.
Just a side note. I must say, I cringe each time I see you open the driver's door as you try to squeeze in where you try not to bump it on the lift post. I say to myself, "Be careful Blue" haha..
I'm considering installing a 2 post lift in my shed once it's finished and am considering the asymmetrical version just so it's able to give more clearance for the door to open. Even then, I'd still want to apply a pad of some kind to mitigate any clumsiness on my part.
What are your thoughts on Asymmetrical lifts Blue ?
Keep on trucking' mate.
Regards
Tony
LOL there is rubber bumpers on the posts mate no damage so far and I think that any hoist that you may but will have them fitted as standard.
2 things to think about the depth of you concrete must be 150MM I would drill first to find out the slab in my shed was supposed to be 150mm but wasn’t close we had 300mm deep reo’ed footings fitted 800mm x 800mm prior to installation. Also mine in a pain in the arse to use because it doesn’t automatically disengage the stay locks when it’s fully down so you have to manually release them to swing the arms into place.
We intend to move house within 2 years and I’ll be installing a 4 post as well as a 2 post. The new 4 post come with cradles that slide the length of the hoist and have hydraulic lift so you can lift the front or rear of the car off its wheels on the hoist.
Cheers Blue
@@BluesShed I must've missed the rubbers on the posts. Definitely need those. Even if they don't come with them, I'll add something anyway.
Regarding the slab. I made sure to tell the concreter to allow for the lift posts.
So, my slab had to be over engineered because there's a sewer line which runs diagonally across, so after it was concrete encased (10K down the hole later), the slab engineer called for piers and trench beams 300mm wide and minimum 400 deep. It's deeper on the left side for Bay 1 though.
So there's the one around the perimeter, one across the middle for the long side and two across the short side which in effect made 6 even squares.
I planned to pitch the hoist columns over the middle of the trench to the far left (Bay 1), the trench is around 600 deep but what I did was excavate around where the posts will be around 1 square metre over the trench, 100mm below what is a 150mm slab. So in essence they will have between 200 to 250mm of thickness beyond the trench to help take the loading better and also beefed up the steel reo too.
I did consider a four post lift initially, but it will take too much space, so a 2 post it will have to be.
My shed is 15.3m across, 9m deep and 3.6 wall height. I'm lucky to have a 1/4 acre block in Western Sydney where it fits nicely at the back. I had some resistance from Council, but they ended up approving it as a D.A. That took 7 months.
I'm almost finished putting the skeleton together. That took 5 and a half days and 90% done, then I move on to insulation, sheeting, roller doors, and the rest of the fit out.
I'm getting there buddy. It's been a rough journey to say the least and It's all me. I have a young Son who's 10.5 years old and he's not physically able to do the hard yakka stuff, but he has helped me measuring etc and putting down the base plates. Bless his heart. He tries to help but I know his limitations so I don't push him. If he was a few more years older he definitely would've come in handy.
Nobody else offered to help, so I'm a one man band instead. Doing the work of three men.
It's funny when there's work to be done, everybody is always busy...
What an era we live in hey ??
Cheers mate.