Very nicely made, the only thing I would add or change is to replace the clear acrylic sheet with a hazy mat one, to cast softer light and to distribute the light more evenly.
I think I want to try this but with a panel in the shape of a ring. Always got frustrated when I'm working on something small and I couldn't get up close to it because my head was in the way of my lamp.
This would be useful for film or photo lighting too, you could switch LED panels from cool white lighting to warm amber tones. Or from a larger panel to a smaller more concentrated, fewer but brighter LEDs if you need to while working or something. This is definitely going on my Build list.
it would not be good for film or photography. LEDs have very poor color accuracy and unless you are using a very specific kind of LED, their color rendering is extremely poor.
This is one of the most insanely impressive things I've ever seen, wow. Is there anything you don't know how to build? You have incredible skills in so many areas. Unbelievable how good one can get at something with passion for it, and the brains and talent.
Enjoy the Scandinavian look to most of your projects, however where is your CNC for some these projects? Would have been neat for the arms and knobs. Keep up the great projects!
or you could get a pool noodle with a wire going through it and a torch jammed in the end of it XD in joking haha, this is a realy nice build i need one.
Nice build. The DIY mag safe connector is a cool addition, although indexing to avoid accidentally reversing the polarity would make a nice touch. Also, press the magnets, sharp blows to magnets can have detrimental effects on them. Again, cool build.
+Darbin Orvar Okey i have to "steal" that idea to my own projects! Just curious, what type of magnets these were and is there any special trick on soldering the wires on? Also have you tested that magnet connector wont cause amps to rise due possible poor connection (i mean its not like any standard connector and lose ones cause the connector just heat up if connection is poor) ?
Thanks for sharing, (please allow me to apologize for some of these Internet Cavemen that have lost touch with civility and respect for others).. I like the idea of the low cost wooden knobs, but worry that the bolt and fly nuts will loosen at random. I have toyed with the idea of building a larger scale articulated arm like this. I have not found a pivot joint I can put faith in (preferably something that doesn't require manually tightening, like something spring loaded/counter weighted/etc.). Any ideas/references?
+Jake Little You could use carriage bolts, which have a square section underneath the head that is inserted in the wood and prevents the bolt from rotating. You would still need to use the manually-tightened wood knobs though. Or just copy the design of a balanced-arm lamp ;)
I had similar thought. I've used a thumbscrew in a t-nut for a single joint articulated camera stand. It's easier to tighten but still loosens up when manipulated. I've yet to find a DIY friendly design that maintains friction without need for constant adjustment. I tried a slotted roll pin (aka tension or spring pin) in a nylon insert that I glued into the plywood. I think that approach might work, but I either needed a larger diameter pin or a different material than nylon.
Doug Reed Friction as the only load carrying/holding capacity works okay for a design of this scale, but if the design is scaled larger more weight is involved. With more weight the bolt must be stretched further to handle the load. The more stretch the bolt has the more it becomes susceptible to handling/vibration loosening with time. I was looking at building something like an 8-9ft (2.5+m) stand for use with a 4ft long LED photography light for larger scale product photography. I need something that can quickly be moved from the ceiling to the floor and everything in between, with one hand. Professional light stands are terrible for this, so I build everything myself :)
Only thing I'd add would be to have a piece of small dowel or even a piece of bamboo skewer sticking out of one half of the power coupler, and a corresponding hole on the other half to provide some polarity protection. Won't hurt the LED's, but I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy. Might also round the corners of the panel, I could see myself getting poked in the eye if not. Otherwise, a spectacular project and one I'm going to make. Always looking for good ways to make a better LED lamp.
I believe that would affect the ability to use it in a video because it looks bad to capture the partially lit LED's within the frame rate of the camera. Functionally, outside of making a pro quality DIY video, it probably wouldn't hurt. It's just more complicated when these are practically fully prewired, isn't it?
+szafran In general less current means less light, and unless you're off-grid on battery power the strips don't draw enough power to be any real concern. They do make PWM dimmers for LED strips that go inline on the power wire. eBay selection: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xled+strip+dimmer.TRS0&_nkw=led+strip+dimmer&_sacat=0
2 questions......1) what's the point of the magnetic plexi over the LEDs? 2) when soldering to those magnets, do they need to be those high power neodymium magnets? Thanks!
+Tanel E Probably not a concern for this project, but keep in mind that heat will destroy magnets. I would probably have placed the magnets next to some sort of conductive pad.
hai lin..i'm from indonesia...i also love making project from wood...can i send u some of my project fhoto...u give me inspiration to make stuff from wood...thanks...
Fantastic piece of work and useful. Loved the articulating arm design very much. Maybe you would like to design a groove and slot at the magnet power switch to avoid wrong polarity connection (just my own thinking )
What is the light output? How bright is it? Equivalent output light wattage? I am legally blind. I need a very bright light to read by. Can you buy the LED light strips in different brightness? Thank You
i do not understand why you used LEDs instead of a normal medium base mount with a replaceable light that is serviceable forever, rather than LEDs which cannot be replaced easily.
Hi Linn I'm having a big problem when I built this. My bolts and wing nuts couldn't hold the weight of the head of the lamp and so it kept falling down when I extend my lamp out too far, I tried springs but the all it really does is hold it in place and doesn't allow for a lot of flexibility, I was wondering if they're any solutions or advice you can give me thanks!
i am not sure how those joints can handle the weight at the same shape i want it to be in time. I would expect it to start failing against gravity every some mins. But if that happens to be the case placing rubber washers could help. Cool looking lamp overall. Need to build one and for sure I am going to make use of your idea while building mine, like the magnet connection. Thank you.
Do you find that the adhesive on the LED strips "lets go" when they get warm? I ask because my strips always seem to stop sticking after the LEDs have been on for a couple of hours. Dabs of hot-glue seems to hold much better and longer.
Cool and all, congrats but, isn't gonna speed up the process of demagnetize pass some current through them?, i mean, one side have positive, the other negative, and through that current you are passing or positive or negative in a constant way. I'm not electricity guy but, can somebody explain me if this is not this way, how it works then? i'm intrigued i mean, in the ones who bring electricity, not the ones who support the acrilic sheet
+Kevin Li The LEDs run off 12V which isn't enough to shock you as long as the power supply is working correctly or you lick the terminals... Of course, some Chinese power adapters are shockingly bad design and/or build quality. Same precautions apply as with phone chargers.
Is it hard to change out LED panels like you created if something burns out? Do you think there is a place for this kind of lighting for home over head lights in the kitchen, dining room or bedroom? What kind of fancy shapes would you make for wall or ceiling lights?
Wonderful how led's make such super lights for tiny work like soldering/de-soldering surface mount components & no risk of broken glass as happens with tungsten, fluorescent or halogen lamps, nor the massive heating of halogens.
I made something smilier I used alternating LED strips between worm and cold light and add a dimer to the 2 power feeds so you can adjust the light output nice build your wood work is grate mine I attached it to a old lamp stand not as nice I think I will mod mine with the magnets thanks for the share
Oh please don't get grumpy about a simple joke. I like Linn and her channel. She's absolutely brilliant in her woodworking and electrical stuff. It wasn't meant seriously, so let's not make this a big point...
This is a great design, I really like how freely it can move, but I find the electric job a bit unsafe: useing magnets to complete circuits sounds like a good idea, but if you have some metal leg from for examle some component you just cut, and it stics to the magnets, supplying the voltage, you will have a really bad short in the circuit. I dont get, why is it important for the front plexy to be easily removable. Why could yuo just use screws instead?
Apple has used a little more sophisticated magnetic connection for laptop power supplies for a long time. I think it's a cool idea. Secondly, it's a work space light. So the plexiglas is there to both prevent anything from making contact with the open LED wiring, and is easily removable to enable cleaning. Both of these aspects of the design should be obvious as being necessary to an experienced Maker.
+djAnakin The LEDC strips run off 12V DC, so a 12V DC adapter. How much current capacity it needs depends on the type of LED strip and how much of it you use. Some data could be gleaned here: www.ebay.com/itm/5M-300LED-SMD-3528-5050-5630-RGB-White-Flexible-Strip-Light-Remote-Power-Supply-/181929534674?var=&hash=item2a5bd864d2:m:m0scM64YX98bf-el_nc1P_w depending on LED type they use 2 or 5A supplies per 5m strip (300 LEDs), so 20-50mA/3-LED group
+Darbin Orvar The power requirements of this project are just glossed over. Using an on line calculator and some conservative numbers for super brite white leds, I'd estimate that 162 LEDs in this project would consume close to an amp. The 12 volt adaptor needs to be capable of driving that much current; many are not.
I'm afraid you didn't add any security or guide to prevent the plus to be connected to the minus. Maybe adding a diode to the magnet system is a good idea.
Para quien pueda leerlo, recomiendo que instalen los leds sobre una placa de algún metal, para que disipen mejor el calor. De esta manera tendrán una larga vida útil.
+Edward Iglesias I like that as well, however I would be concerned about heat destroying the magnets. There probably isn't enough being generated in this design, but it is probably worth keeping in mind in general.
Darbin Orvar Awesome project.... Love your channel..... are those normal neodymium magnets ? ..... Can you share the purchasing link or details on the magnet
It's called "Vocal Fry," a self-induced condition where the person drops the vocal pitch at the end of words to an almost silent growling sound. Some people do it because it's trendy or they think it sounds "sexy." It can be very distracting to the listener. It's kind of an offshoot of "Valley Speak."
Very nicely made, the only thing I would add or change is to replace the clear acrylic sheet with a hazy mat one, to cast softer light and to distribute the light more evenly.
+XtrAMassivE I think that may be what she may have had in mind by making it attach magnetically. Good thought in any case.
Cool project, I always like lamps!
Yeah they are very... enlightening!
"I do declare" - Articulate Lamp
+Karan Trivedi LOL... so punny!
:D
I think I want to try this but with a panel in the shape of a ring. Always got frustrated when I'm working on something small and I couldn't get up close to it because my head was in the way of my lamp.
This would be useful for film or photo lighting too, you could switch LED panels from cool white lighting to warm amber tones.
Or from a larger panel to a smaller more concentrated, fewer but brighter LEDs if you need to while working or something. This is definitely going on my Build list.
it would not be good for film or photography. LEDs have very poor color accuracy and unless you are using a very specific kind of LED, their color rendering is extremely poor.
This is one of the most insanely impressive things I've ever seen, wow. Is there anything you don't know how to build? You have incredible skills in so many areas. Unbelievable how good one can get at something with passion for it, and the brains and talent.
Great project idea for your tinker corner! You will now be known as "Tinker Bell".. Lol.. Looking forward to your next project!
Estás si son mujeres, no como la luchona que tengo en casa.
# me hackiaron, amor.
cool build, linn! i love the magnet-powersupply solution-very clever!
+Laura Kampf Thanks Laura!
no heatsink for those led strips? or at least a metal backing?
Enjoy the Scandinavian look to most of your projects, however where is your CNC for some these projects? Would have been neat for the arms and knobs. Keep up the great projects!
Hermosa lampara y una mujer creativa y bonita.
Love it! that is a great project!
Very cool , great job,👍
or you could get a pool noodle with a wire going through it and a torch jammed in the end of it XD in joking haha, this is a realy nice build i need one.
Love it! Especially using the magnets to make the electrical connection. Very Apple MagSafesque. Well done, Linn.
Nice build. The DIY mag safe connector is a cool addition, although indexing to avoid accidentally reversing the polarity would make a nice touch. Also, press the magnets, sharp blows to magnets can have detrimental effects on them. Again, cool build.
+Harold Hayes III Good catch on "tapping" the magnets. Heat is also another concern.
Doug Reed
Not to worry (Flinch.....lol) The hammer head is a non Magnetic...Non Metallic.....and is Lemon Flavored.....lol ...again !
I couldn't catch the measurements and the drawing. Love this diy. The best among all similar videos.
Linn: I like the magnet connector, but you might have added a peg + slightly oversized hole on one side so that the couldn't be connected backwards.
+xKatjaxPurrsx Thanks, the way I solved that was to make like poles repel so that you cannot connect it any other way.
That's brilliant.
+Darbin Orvar Okey i have to "steal" that idea to my own projects! Just curious, what type of magnets these were and is there any special trick on soldering the wires on? Also have you tested that magnet connector wont cause amps to rise due possible poor connection (i mean its not like any standard connector and lose ones cause the connector just heat up if connection is poor) ?
I did not get why Linn did that till she pulled out the second panel.. and then it was like.. "Oohh, she is smart! ... and a touch of indecisive." :-)
Thanks for sharing, (please allow me to apologize for some of these Internet Cavemen that have lost touch with civility and respect for others).. I like the idea of the low cost wooden knobs, but worry that the bolt and fly nuts will loosen at random. I have toyed with the idea of building a larger scale articulated arm like this. I have not found a pivot joint I can put faith in (preferably something that doesn't require manually tightening, like something spring loaded/counter weighted/etc.). Any ideas/references?
+Jake Little You could use carriage bolts, which have a square section underneath the head that is inserted in the wood and prevents the bolt from rotating. You would still need to use the manually-tightened wood knobs though. Or just copy the design of a balanced-arm lamp ;)
I had similar thought. I've used a thumbscrew in a t-nut for a single joint articulated camera stand. It's easier to tighten but still loosens up when manipulated. I've yet to find a DIY friendly design that maintains friction without need for constant adjustment. I tried a slotted roll pin (aka tension or spring pin) in a nylon insert that I glued into the plywood. I think that approach might work, but I either needed a larger diameter pin or a different material than nylon.
Doug Reed Friction as the only load carrying/holding capacity works okay for a design of this scale, but if the design is scaled larger more weight is involved. With more weight the bolt must be stretched further to handle the load. The more stretch the bolt has the more it becomes susceptible to handling/vibration loosening with time. I was looking at building something like an 8-9ft (2.5+m) stand for use with a 4ft long LED photography light for larger scale product photography. I need something that can quickly be moved from the ceiling to the floor and everything in between, with one hand. Professional light stands are terrible for this, so I build everything myself :)
Hello
It's a good job . You can add a frame to cover the space around the LED's.
It's just an idea.
Only thing I'd add would be to have a piece of small dowel or even a piece of bamboo skewer sticking out of one half of the power coupler, and a corresponding hole on the other half to provide some polarity protection. Won't hurt the LED's, but I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy. Might also round the corners of the panel, I could see myself getting poked in the eye if not. Otherwise, a spectacular project and one I'm going to make. Always looking for good ways to make a better LED lamp.
congratulations. nice project. I like it. a little advice; led lamp so heating. Therefore; you must use aluminium heatsink to behind.
I was thinking the same thing. Also, is this a DC only lamp? Did she mention a wall adapter/power supply and I missed it?
Very, very nice! Didn't you think about multiplexing due to less power consumption? What do you think?
I believe that would affect the ability to use it in a video because it looks bad to capture the partially lit LED's within the frame rate of the camera. Functionally, outside of making a pro quality DIY video, it probably wouldn't hurt. It's just more complicated when these are practically fully prewired, isn't it?
Yeah, for DIY video your version is better :) But beside that I think I'll make multiplexed one - we'll see. Thanks!
+szafran In general less current means less light, and unless you're off-grid on battery power the strips don't draw enough power to be any real concern.
They do make PWM dimmers for LED strips that go inline on the power wire. eBay selection: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xled+strip+dimmer.TRS0&_nkw=led+strip+dimmer&_sacat=0
2 questions......1) what's the point of the magnetic plexi over the LEDs? 2) when soldering to those magnets, do they need to be those high power neodymium magnets? Thanks!
Very informative! Awesome creativity. And your accent is subtle and ambiguous. unlike the annoying and caustic Richard Quest accent.
awesome project!! mad skills!
+Matt Diresta Thanks Matt!
Great idea with the magnet connectors!
+Tanel E Probably not a concern for this project, but keep in mind that heat will destroy magnets. I would probably have placed the magnets next to some sort of conductive pad.
A woman is able to force
I'd have been strongly tempted to extend the arms past the joints and add a counterweight
That would only be necessary if you had a spring articulated lamp, not a friction fit one.
hai lin..i'm from indonesia...i also love making project from wood...can i send u some of my project fhoto...u give me inspiration to make stuff from wood...thanks...
Fantastic piece of work and useful. Loved the articulating arm design very much. Maybe you would like to design a groove and slot at the magnet power switch to avoid wrong polarity connection (just my own thinking )
What is the light output? How bright is it? Equivalent output light wattage? I am legally blind. I need a very bright light to read by. Can you buy the LED light strips in different brightness? Thank You
i do not understand why you used LEDs instead of a normal medium base mount with a replaceable light that is serviceable forever, rather than LEDs which cannot be replaced easily.
Great light. Did you think of making the perspex frosted for a more diffused light?
Hi Linn
I'm having a big problem when I built this. My bolts and wing nuts couldn't hold the weight of the head of the lamp and so it kept falling down when I extend my lamp out too far, I tried springs but the all it really does is hold it in place and doesn't allow for a lot of flexibility, I was wondering if they're any solutions or advice you can give me thanks!
i am not sure how those joints can handle the weight at the same shape i want it to be in time. I would expect it to start failing against gravity every some mins. But if that happens to be the case placing rubber washers could help. Cool looking lamp overall. Need to build one and for sure I am going to make use of your idea while building mine, like the magnet connection. Thank you.
very great and fantastek
Do you find that the adhesive on the LED strips "lets go" when they get warm? I ask because my strips always seem to stop sticking after the LEDs have been on for a couple of hours. Dabs of hot-glue seems to hold much better and longer.
Cool and all, congrats but, isn't gonna speed up the process of demagnetize pass some current through them?, i mean, one side have positive, the other negative, and through that current you are passing or positive or negative in a constant way.
I'm not electricity guy but, can somebody explain me if this is not this way, how it works then? i'm intrigued
i mean, in the ones who bring electricity, not the ones who support the acrilic sheet
How safe is the magnetic power connection ion? If you remove the light are the wires hot? Thanks
very nice tutorial, good job
I like it....thumbs up and brilliant idea with the magnets
Is the magnet wiring safe to touch when connected in an outlet? Will the current shock you?
+Kevin Li Good thought there. It would be a good idea to turn the lamp off before changing that component out.
+Kevin Li The LEDs run off 12V which isn't enough to shock you as long as the power supply is working correctly or you lick the terminals...
Of course, some Chinese power adapters are shockingly bad design and/or build quality. Same precautions apply as with phone chargers.
Interesting, in class I am building a led lamp so maybe I'll implement this.
Is it hard to change out LED panels like you created if something burns out? Do you think there is a place for this kind of lighting for home over head lights in the kitchen, dining room or bedroom? What kind of fancy shapes would you make for wall or ceiling lights?
I love it!!!! where is the template? :(
I am making this for my mic that weighs 3 kgs. Would it help if I add more joints? I have 1by0.5 inches wood strips.
I like to build things, but I never got into electronics. Now after watching this i HAVE to learn how to do that magnet magic.
Wonderful how led's make such super lights for tiny work like soldering/de-soldering surface mount components & no risk of broken glass as happens with tungsten, fluorescent or halogen lamps, nor the massive heating of halogens.
Super nice job! I sure do enjoy your projects and design solutions.
Sounds like you're from Sweden.
Do you work at Ikea?
I made something smilier I used alternating LED strips between worm and cold light and add a dimer to the 2 power feeds so you can adjust the light output nice build your wood work is grate mine I attached it to a old lamp stand not as nice I think I will mod mine with the magnets thanks for the share
How do you figure out the proper power supply if you want to use a wall adapter? She didn't seem to mention that part.
My kind of girl who knows her way around the shop.....great design idea. Time for a belt sander
Cool project. I'd not use so many joints though. The same effect can be achieved with three joints
A nut on the back of the bolt will draw that bolt head into the wood. Robots are really good at hindsight armchair quarterbacking.
Nice video but viewers are left guessing whether they wire it to an AC Plug, A DC USB, a A 24V DC wall plug adapter...
Jag var tvungen att kolla din blogg för att kolla att du var svenska.. Jättefin engelska men små saker avslöja dig allt ;) Älskade lampan! Jättefin!
what exactly is the point of being able to remove the glass panel so easily?
just doesnt make sense to me.. otherwise a nice little build..
Le quedó excelente, muy práctica y funcional, una mujer muy hermosa e inteligente
Do the magnets conduct electricity? or does this only work because of the metallic finish on rare earth magnets?
Very, very cool, Linn! You're becoming an electrical wizard! Love it. Troy
+secondwind75 Don't you mean electrical witch? Sorry Linn, couldn't help it! ;)
Oh please don't get grumpy about a simple joke. I like Linn and her channel. She's absolutely brilliant in her woodworking and electrical stuff. It wasn't meant seriously, so let's not make this a big point...
This is a great design, I really like how freely it can move, but I find the electric job a bit unsafe:
useing magnets to complete circuits sounds like a good idea, but if you have some metal leg from for examle some component you just cut, and it stics to the magnets, supplying the voltage, you will have a really bad short in the circuit.
I dont get, why is it important for the front plexy to be easily removable. Why could yuo just use screws instead?
Apple has used a little more sophisticated magnetic connection for laptop power supplies for a long time. I think it's a cool idea. Secondly, it's a work space light. So the plexiglas is there to both prevent anything from making contact with the open LED wiring, and is easily removable to enable cleaning. Both of these aspects of the design should be obvious as being necessary to an experienced Maker.
I've not been successful in figuring out what the benefit (if any) of having to many sections in the arm.
Lyn, what is the power source?
+djAnakin The LEDC strips run off 12V DC, so a 12V DC adapter. How much current capacity it needs depends on the type of LED strip and how much of it you use.
Some data could be gleaned here: www.ebay.com/itm/5M-300LED-SMD-3528-5050-5630-RGB-White-Flexible-Strip-Light-Remote-Power-Supply-/181929534674?var=&hash=item2a5bd864d2:m:m0scM64YX98bf-el_nc1P_w
depending on LED type they use 2 or 5A supplies per 5m strip (300 LEDs), so 20-50mA/3-LED group
+djAnakin These are 12 volt leds so I used a 12 volt adapter.
+Darbin Orvar The power requirements of this project are just glossed over. Using an on line calculator and some conservative numbers for super brite white leds, I'd estimate that 162 LEDs in this project would consume close to an amp. The 12 volt adaptor needs to be capable of driving that much current; many are not.
Darbin Orvar brilliant project. got to build this for my self will look brill in my tinker corner. just wondering what thickness of plywood you used ?
I'm afraid you didn't add any security or guide to prevent the plus to be connected to the minus. Maybe adding a diode to the magnet system is a good idea.
Para quien pueda leerlo, recomiendo que instalen los leds sobre una placa de algún metal, para que disipen mejor el calor. De esta manera tendrán una larga vida útil.
First dislike for no reason
asshole.
👎👎👎 Oh! yes, Oh! yes, idiot.
+Max Kurd Dislikes are inevitable on YT. If you look at the ratio of likes/dislikes though, it aint bad at all. =)
+mickenoss ok 🌚
+Majin Snake but I'm not KKK group
oh I love it
where are those small tiny projects on battery clip, radios, 3d printers
I would have used cool white cob chip LEDs rather than led strips
I have my Smart phone, But I don't have a Smart Girl like her yet!
Why are there so many joints when ~3 would have done the same job? Looks?
+snowclones Maybe for length/distance.
super cool
Have you tried the TS100 soldering iron ?
Love the idea of magnets as conductors.
+Edward Iglesias I like that as well, however I would be concerned about heat destroying the magnets. There probably isn't enough being generated in this design, but it is probably worth keeping in mind in general.
cool video but I wanted to see her change out the light panel for another one
You... I like you.
Very nice lamp and workshop.
I like how you update your intro to include parts from new videos. 👍
Very nice. Where can I purchase a spool a LED's like you have
For goodness sake, drop the blade guide/guard on that band saw!
No clue why I watched that...
I have question can you use batteries ore you have to use direct current ?
What temperature color is the LED strip you were using?
Fun project, I love the use of magnets for the interchangeable protective sheets and lighting panels.
+Live Free and DIY Thanks Lew!
Darbin Orvar Awesome project.... Love your channel..... are those normal neodymium magnets ? ..... Can you share the purchasing link or details on the magnet
Great job, Linn. Love the full articulation, a lot of the store bought task lamps always seem to never go to that *one* position, grrr.
come si permettono di mettere dei "non mi piace"?? sei bravissima Lynn... complimenti
i have great remix ideas for shis concept - sänks for sharing :)
nice build! I would suggest placing the leds with a certain offset... not in straight rows/columns, for better light uniformity
+Francesco Bianchi The great thing about her design is the "lens" cover is magnetic and can be easily changed out depending on light requirements.
Did u screw the base in place pivoted or something?
Also, what is your electrical input on that lamp?
you could also make a microphone arm like that...
This is exactly what I was looking for!
Muy lindo... pero no entendí nada de lo que hablaste.
Hermosa me gustan las mujeres así 😉😉😉😉😉🥰🥰🥰
can someone tell me what type of magnet was used
Thx
accept my 1000s likes. Nicely explained
Beautifull woman and lamp. Do you want more?
good work esa si es una mujer XD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love her accent
It's called "Vocal Fry," a self-induced condition where the person drops the vocal pitch at the end of words to an almost silent growling sound. Some people do it because it's trendy or they think it sounds "sexy." It can be very distracting to the listener. It's kind of an offshoot of "Valley Speak."
A little banging.. strip light? Keep it PG!