Nissan 300ZX Intake Plenum Install, Ignition Timing, USB Consult Cable Tuning: Restoration Part 7
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In this episode I finish my engine tune-up work and reinstall the valve covers and intake manifold plenum. I also continue the search for my engine hesitation issues by diagnosing the ECU with a USB Consult cable and a laptop, adjusting the throttle position sensor, and setting the timing with the crank angle sensor. After some engine smoking issues, I take the car on a test drive to see if my tune up helped performance.
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Your work both camera and mechanic wise, are criminally underrated. These uploads are amazing!
I appreciate it!
Dude I just binged all your Z32 content! Excellent work, love the progress! My only suggestion would be to have replace the caps on your VTC solenoids when you resealed your valve covers. The rubber caps typically melt and oil leaks from there too. Glad you got her running 100%!
Thanks! I'm super excited to have it back running at 100%. Good call on those solenoid caps, I'll definitely check that out
Man if you were in NC, I would bring my 1992 twin turbo to you for the same work. Great job.
Dude, just cruise it out! California is only a what, 3 day drive? 😂
@@noboltsleftbehind coast to coast man but wayyy too far.
Nice!. Thanks for the Thanksgiving content to watch 👍
7:52 I found the same pipe cleaner in my 94 TT crankcase vent tube lol
Interesting, I wonder if it was something from the factory then?
I really enjoy this series.
Nicely done
Can't wait for the race
Thank you for these videos, they are so informative! I just watched every one of your z32 vids, and it's awesome to see the car become better and better -- awesome job! I have a '95, and I might just have to get that usb scanner tool.
Thanks man! I definitely recommend the USB cable thing, it’s a good way to get accurate readings from the ECU. I just got the cheapest one I found on Amazon and it worked great!
Yes get one! You will not regret it, its so nice being able to check the sensors
“probably the most terrible spot to have a leak from” is exactly where coolant is coming from my Z right now
Uh oh... under the intake manifold??
Lol i got a leak down the back of the block, i can see it spraying onto my gearbox when at temp 🙄😅
Man brake cleaner works for everything
Awesome work. I need to finish up on my 300Z and hopefully be able to bring it to Z nationals this year.
Thanks! Z nationals? This is the first I’m hearing of this, I’ll have to check it out!
great video again must get one of those funnels, another tip to get all the air out of coolant system which you may have done but didn't mention it, is to cycle your heater core to on hot setting while car running and gets up to temp otherwise you could get air back into the system once you turn heater on if it wasn't done the first time. i don't have one of those tall funnels with a Rad cap, so i normally use the driveway gutter with my rear wheels down in the low part of the gutter to raise the front of car / radiator in height to get all the air bubble's out with the Rad cap off, topping it up at a fast idle so water pump pushes more flow pressure through the system.
Ooh now I Z how the Lady looks when the plenum and valve covers are removed. The plenum remunds me of a rib cage 😄 Nice work! Ive had my Z for 15yrs so addictive! 🤍🖤
Not sure why the nissan data scan wont let you see the data display (f1) but you can see just about everything from their all at once. Not trying to sound like a now it all but .44 on the TPS is perfect and dont forget to reset the closed throttle position it will help with the idle. Enjoying the content though, keep it up!👍
Thanks! Good to know my TPS is in range. I might not be seeing the whole display because I’m cheap and running the free version of the software, but luckily someone with an unused license hit me up so now I should be set (thanks Jared)!
You may have helped me solve my problem on my z that I haven't figured out for a couple months I'm going to try to mess with the cast angle sensor that you was hitting hopefully that does me right as well I'm going to do the coolant bypass too soon
Hopefully that works out for you, I know I tried just about everything else before finding that. When I adjusted mine I listened closely for detonation ping and didn’t hear anything, definitely something to look out for.
@@noboltsleftbehind thank you so much I will definitely be watching your videos and see where your z takes you
Hello, can someone please show the location of the vacuum hoses on video, I don't know how they work. Thank you.
Nice work!
Thanks!
I need some help with my 93 N/A. Not getting power to 3 of the ignition coils. Replaced coils, plugs, knock sensor and still runs like crap
Cool video brotha!!! Nice work!!
Wow super iam happy you got it 😅 🙏🏾💪🏾
Dude, me too. I struggled with that for a long time.
Conceptz wiki water bypass says just cap of the water nipples but I've seen a couple of video's where people join the nipple of one hard pipe to the nipple on the other, so that would effectively be bypassing the heater core?
Or did u just loop the nipple from one hard pipe back to the other nipple on the same hard pipe?
I have all this to do and have left the gearbox out to get better access from below to fit new metal water pipes i will cap each nipple off.
Also replacing VTC valves since they have started leaking the black goo.
Great video's, just confirming i have alot of work to do! Waiting on parts from Amayama and in the mean time just picked up a Veilside Evolution cat back exhaust I've given a good polish!
Thanks, good luck on your project! I just ran a loop between the two ports in the back that were leftover after deleting everything. Not sure if that's bypassing the heater core, I suppose it's just creating a small loop where there once was a big loop.
@@noboltsleftbehind sounds like you did it right, I considered doing a loop on each hard pipe as might be better for flushing than dead ending with caps.
Other videos definitely show them connecting the heater core inlet to outlet in bypass videos, it would screw up the pressure going into the heater core I'd say too.
I couldn't see your connections in the clip hence asking.
While doing my rear main seal a small water hose decided to start dripping coolant while gearbox was out so decided to do plenum pull wil box out to hopefully make a little easier.
O2 sensors are good thing to replace if you haven't, on your laptop program check to see if your sensors constantly go up and down, then they are fine, if they hardly move they need replacing.
@@sabertown1653 similar thing happened to me, once I starting taking things apart I found a bunch of little things that needed fixing. Good call on the O2 sensors, I meant to replace them but didn't get around to it. I'll give them a check through the consult.
I just went with a JWT ecm
I also have a factory ecm sent off and reworked with a eprom
But jwt is just right
Good to know, I actually found a guy selling a '95 JWT ecm here locally, I was considering buying it. Did you see a decent bump in power when you installed yours?
@@noboltsleftbehind 10 to rear wheels- mustang dyno
But mostly rear seat feel
Overall I believe it was worth the money but that’s been 16yrs ago
I’ve rebuilt the engine and did all the n/a upgrades since then
Only big thing I’ve done is
P&P the heads myself
Reground cams
I just got the trans put in Sunday
The 5sp swap
Just have to get a drive shaft
And test pipes
So I know it will be night n day being 5speed now
I’m org owner also
1990 n/a 2+2 azure blue
I would go stand alone if you just want to play around
Maybe MS Squirt
@@Itawolfib that’s awesome to have owned that thing for so long. Congrats on the manual swap, it definitely increased the fun factor after I did mine.
@@noboltsleftbehind it did sit on Jack stands in the back of my fathers shop for 12 of those years Bc of deployment and has now sat for 2yrs in my home garage till I saw you start and it lit a fire in me last few weeks
So thank you
And yes I’m in the dog house with all my buying as of late
She will get over it thou
Z has been in my life 2 yrs longer lol
Nice work man.
Thanks!
The same tube on my car had the same little pipe cleaner i was very confused and removed it
That’s interesting, you’re not the only one to say that. It must be there from the factory.
Are you near Oxnard? Would love to meet up with you and have you give my car a look using that software. My car has sputter problems while at low rpm. I have new injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel damper and boost controller on hand ready to be installed, just waiting on my schedule to open to work on it
No, sorry I’m a few hours south in the LA area. I bought that thing for around $30 on Amazon though and used the free version of the software. Well worth the price.
so i had to reseal my valve exhaust covers, i placed rtv on the surface and the covers and used zpec bolts, but wanted to replace the new bolts with the oems bolts back on after i sealed it a day later. if i remove those bolts and replace them should i reseal the covers again?
If it was me I’d try and replace them one by one and hope the seal isn’t broken.
@@noboltsleftbehind kinda tried removing the cover. Very difficult. I'll definitely feel more comfortable just resealing it after I remove the screws and replaced
What is the software your using called?
Nissan DataScan
@@noboltsleftbehind thank you
why didnt you delete the egr
I need it to pass smog tests here in California
You would easily pass smog without EGR...so long as the inspector is not a Z32 expert lol
@@VNCTHE1 I don’t know man, smog tests are pretty strict here in Los Angeles county. I’d be worried about NOx emissions.
Why keep the EGR? Why!!!
To pass California emissions tests 👍
Did you just get the cable and no licensed DataScan 1 software? Just curious because your selection screen looked like it wasn't offering all of the options that typically come with a fully unlocked version. If you plan on keeping the factory ECU for a while, I'd really suggest getting the activated version as it will give you a slew of additional options like disabling certain engine cylinders either through shutting down the fuel injector or coil pack. When I was running my chipped ECU, it still worked with the DataScan software and helped diagnose a lot of issues I had to occasionally deal with. Since I am now running a Haltech and literally have no need for the DataScan software anymore, I'd be willing to toss my info at you so you can activate yours if you'd like. I messaged you via Instagram. I literally have no need for it anymore so it would be better off being used by someone who needed it.
Also, the PTU wire for checking the ignition timing is kind of iffy sometimes, so I'd be mindful of that. Did you use just the sensor wire (thicker black wire) on the coil pack wiring for cylinder one when checking your timing? That way has always worked for me in the past and even now with the R35 coils I am currently running, but I had to upgrade to the $100+ timing light when I went to the smart coils. Was just wondering as it almost sounded like you used the 3 wires total.
Yes, that is just using the unlicensed free version of DataScan. I'll absolutely take your license if you don't need it, thanks! I'll message you back on Instagram. I'd love to get in there and mess with settings some more.
I was using just that black coil wire for testing the timing, though I have a cheap timing light so that might be part of the problem. I also heard getting a short spark plug wire and connecting it between the coil pack and spark plug works better, I may try that.
I need it