I've not seen any part less reliable than those universal fuel pumps. If yours is still working that's great, but I'd have gone back in with one of Mikuni's vacuum fuel pumps.
....errr.... the idea of the vacuum pulse fuel pump is to close the fuel supply when the bike is not running, to prevent the carbs overflowing. You could simply have bridged your broken pump to achieve the same result as you have now, as your electric pump is always running. It would be better to replace the pulse pump with a similar one. KTM (and others) uses those and they are readily available. Good luck ✌
The idea of the vakuum-pulse is to close the fuel supply? Sorry, but that is wrong. The bike has a vakuum controlled fuel-valve, which closes the fuel supply, and a vakuum pump, whose function is to supply fuel to the carbs, as the tank at almost empty has a lower level than the float chambers. I do intend to change the pump back to a pulse type, as I have found one on Wish. The vakuum type has one big disadvantage over the electrical though. If you run out of fuel, it can be difficult to get the air out. Chain-saws have a priming pump, the Suzuki hasn`t.
@@elchapulin2434 I know and understand the fuel valve. The exact function of the the pulse pump escaped me, until now. I assumed it was a redundant shut off to the primary fuel valve. Thanks for explaining. 👍
@@elchapulin2434 The electrical one has a big advantage too....😁 it can break down. A non working vacuum pump will leave you with at least one cilinder running, as you proved. By the way, that was some awesome troubleshooting you did there though. Hats off ✌
I have the same bike 2000 model I have same issue but mine does it when bike is cold I have ridden before and it cuts in and out or sometimes it doesn't do it at all do u reccomend doing same as what u done as I changed plugs and it was good for a day ?! Plz help me if possible
No, it is a KKMoon after-market speedometer or a Ninja. I had to build the lower housing from fiber-glass and a stainless-steel bracket. The KKMoon has a tank-gauge, but no lamps for "tank empty", "tank very empty" and Oil-pressure. So I placed two yellow and one red lamps on the bracket. I also changed the water-temperature control-switch to a temperature feeler (standard car-part), to make the temperature gauge work.
I used a 10 dollar electric fuel pump from e-bay. However, the ticking annoyed me. This year I found a cheap aftermarket membrane-pump which I installed instead. One more thing: Look at the needle-valve seat in both carburetors. It has a fine filter that gets plugged up with polymerized "biofuel" over time. This year both my filters were plugged up. I bought a Carburetor-repair set, that contained new seats, needles and filters.
Can u send details on new pump and the carby kit u bought I love my bike and want it to run like it should it's great when both cylinders are working mines 20 years old but It's great for daily commute
@@lukeallen5042 The electrical fuel pump was a HEP 02-A universal fuel-pump from ebay. I later changed to a vakuum-pump found on Wish.com with the following text: Durable Motorcycle Vacuum Fuel Pump, Sturdy Vacuum Fuel Pump, High Reliability for Motorcycle Scooter Gy6 50Cc-250Cc It looks like the original, but I had to build a new bracket and re-route the vakuum and fuel hoses. The carb-repair set was this: www.ebay.de/itm/185299565818 Should be available on ebay in your country too.
You mean the oscilloscope-wires? Look at the video 1:02. Connect to the ignition-control-box in the tail of the bike. The white wire goes to the rear-cylinder coil, black/yellow to the front coil, black/white is ground.
Hai bro... Need your help if i accidently spray the injector cleaner to fuel injector without starting it. Now it can start. What do i need to do about it?
The rear cylinder on my 2008 SV650 doesn’t run during a cold start. It will only run on both cylinders after it reaches normal operating temperature. The spark plugs are new and the coils work
Take ur time and check if u get current to the spark plug, check if u get fuel at all times in the rear cylinder,or better yet,get ur bike to a good mechanic
It is a KKMoon speedometer for a Ninja. I had to build the lower housing from fiber-glass and a stainless-steel bracket. The KKMoon has a tank-gauge, but no lamps for "tank empty", "tank very empty" and Oil-pressure as on my 99 SV650 has. So I placed two yellow and one red lamps on the bracket. I also changed the water-temperature control-switch to a temperature feeler (standard car-part), to make the temperature gauge work.
This was a joy to watch. :)
Cool song in the backround.
Little honda gx270 engine use similar pump...they commonly used for gokarts...
I've not seen any part less reliable than those universal fuel pumps. If yours is still working that's great, but I'd have gone back in with one of Mikuni's vacuum fuel pumps.
additive fuel injector carburator cleaner
....errr.... the idea of the vacuum pulse fuel pump is to close the fuel supply when the bike is not running, to prevent the carbs overflowing.
You could simply have bridged your broken pump to achieve the same result as you have now, as your electric pump is always running.
It would be better to replace the pulse pump with a similar one. KTM (and others) uses those and they are readily available.
Good luck ✌
The idea of the vakuum-pulse is to close the fuel supply? Sorry, but that is wrong. The bike has a vakuum controlled fuel-valve, which closes the fuel supply, and a vakuum pump, whose function is to supply fuel to the carbs, as the tank at almost empty has a lower level than the float chambers.
I do intend to change the pump back to a pulse type, as I have found one on Wish.
The vakuum type has one big disadvantage over the electrical though. If you run out of fuel, it can be difficult to get the air out. Chain-saws have a priming pump, the Suzuki hasn`t.
@@elchapulin2434 I know and understand the fuel valve. The exact function of the the pulse pump escaped me, until now. I assumed it was a redundant shut off to the primary fuel valve. Thanks for explaining. 👍
@@elchapulin2434 The electrical one has a big advantage too....😁 it can break down. A non working vacuum pump will leave you with at least one cilinder running, as you proved.
By the way, that was some awesome troubleshooting you did there though. Hats off ✌
I have the same bike 2000 model I have same issue but mine does it when bike is cold I have ridden before and it cuts in and out or sometimes it doesn't do it at all do u reccomend doing same as what u done as I changed plugs and it was good for a day ?! Plz help me if possible
Check the drainholes, if they are plugged they could cause dirt and water to build up
Good Job
…..BADASS!!!
Is it original dash?
No, it is a KKMoon after-market speedometer or a Ninja. I had to build the lower housing from fiber-glass and a stainless-steel bracket. The KKMoon has a tank-gauge, but no lamps for "tank empty", "tank very empty" and Oil-pressure. So I placed two yellow and one red lamps on the bracket. I also changed the water-temperature control-switch to a temperature feeler (standard car-part), to make the temperature gauge work.
Did the bike vibrate more than usual on one cylinder? Thanks
Not really, the mechanical movements are still the same. But it feels sluggish and rough and sounds bad.
Having this same problem exactly. What fuel pump did you use?
I used a 10 dollar electric fuel pump from e-bay. However, the ticking annoyed me. This year I found a cheap aftermarket membrane-pump which I installed instead.
One more thing: Look at the needle-valve seat in both carburetors. It has a fine filter that gets plugged up with polymerized "biofuel" over time. This year both my filters were plugged up. I bought a Carburetor-repair set, that contained new seats, needles and filters.
Can u send details on new pump and the carby kit u bought I love my bike and want it to run like it should it's great when both cylinders are working mines 20 years old but It's great for daily commute
@@lukeallen5042 The electrical fuel pump was a HEP 02-A universal fuel-pump from ebay.
I later changed to a vakuum-pump found on Wish.com with the following text:
Durable Motorcycle Vacuum Fuel Pump, Sturdy Vacuum Fuel Pump, High Reliability for Motorcycle Scooter Gy6 50Cc-250Cc
It looks like the original, but I had to build a new bracket and re-route the vakuum and fuel hoses.
The carb-repair set was this:
www.ebay.de/itm/185299565818
Should be available on ebay in your country too.
are you able to do a quick video of how your rerouted the vac a fuell hoses?@@elchapulin2434
How did you connect your wires and to what?
You mean the oscilloscope-wires? Look at the video 1:02. Connect to the ignition-control-box in the tail of the bike. The white wire goes to the rear-cylinder coil, black/yellow to the front coil, black/white is ground.
Hai bro... Need your help if i accidently spray the injector cleaner to fuel injector without starting it. Now it can start. What do i need to do about it?
The rear cylinder on my 2008 SV650 doesn’t run during a cold start. It will only run on both cylinders after it reaches normal operating temperature. The spark plugs are new and the coils work
Chech if the drainholes are plugged
Take ur time and check if u get current to the spark plug, check if u get fuel at all times in the rear cylinder,or better yet,get ur bike to a good mechanic
Can you tell me what speedometer that is? I’m having such a hard time finding one for my SV!
It is a KKMoon speedometer for a Ninja. I had to build the lower housing from fiber-glass and a stainless-steel bracket. The KKMoon has a tank-gauge, but no lamps for "tank empty", "tank very empty" and Oil-pressure as on my 99 SV650 has. So I placed two yellow and one red lamps on the bracket. I also changed the water-temperature control-switch to a temperature feeler (standard car-part), to make the temperature gauge work.