I Took Apart My DeLorean Engine & Found The "Valley Of Death!" What Would You Do Here?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Don’t miss your chance to get 15% off Carly! Click this link and my discount code “Legit23” will be automatically applied to your order (valid until November 15): bit.ly/Legit_C...
You can use Carly’s scanner and the free version of the app with any car that has an OBD2 port. Visit mycarly.com to check if advanced features, like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics, will work with your car. Some features are only available with their yearly license.
In this video, I take apart my DeLorean engine & found the "Valley of Death." This is disappointing to say the least. Let me know what you guys would do in this situation.
Try out my new Gigantic Dry Towel! You'll be able to dry your entire car in a couple of minutes! One swipe, and it's Dry!
bit.ly/3PBvU5T
Get 25% off MUDSLINGER spray and all Amsoil products, including their famous synthetic engine oil! Sign up as one of my preferred customers here! www.amsoil.com... Your first order pays for the membership!
Use Coupon Code LEGIT For 10% off Sonic Tools! bit.ly/3iNDtGU
Try a sample tool kit for only $60! bit.ly/3CSBqcB
Everything car-related I recommend from Amazon! amzn.to/2k606
I finished the DeLorean! Check this out! ua-cam.com/video/DsAxVt94sb8/v-deo.html
Okay, I don’t care how many movies it’s been in, that is a horribly designed engine
Trash the motor and put a cheap is250 motor in it
😂😂😂😂😂😂 the radiator pipes run below the whole car. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 fukn fanatics
@@somphothbsiratsamy3748 Look at me! Look at me! I'm the waterboy! Grrrrrr!
I watch a guy years take the valley and had a pro fill that up with new weld and it lasted forever he still has that car. You should of least super pressure cleaned the area and painted it with high temp to protect it from farther on.
A suggestion: while expensive, it might be pertinent to actually go and clean up ALL the corrosion in the valley and then coat it in a layer of Alodine like what would be done in aviation on aluminum, just as a peace of mind thing. You can't gain back the aluminum, but you can at least protect the aluminum you do have from corroding. Generally it's used for creating a surface for paint to stick to in airplanes but in your case, I'm wondering if a few coats of that won't hurt, and then some high temp engine paint in something a bit brighter so you can see any oil leakage in the future.
I bet you just watched Rebuild Rescue 45 minutes ago.
I was thinking of filling it with carbon fiber and resin
I was thinking even cheaper.. fill the valley bottom with JB Weld. It would bond to reinforce the material that is still there. Either way,if it is going to fail and there ain't anything you can do about it, run it until it gives...
@@DillysADV That was my thoughts too.
Could you coat the top of the valley of life (thinking positive) with something like JB weld? And yes you are right I am not a car guy.I change oil and do brakes that is all. And I enjoy your all your videos. Good luck!
Mix up about a half gallon of JB weld and give the whole valley a good coating to protect it.
Exactly what I'd be doing.
I thought the same too - I'm not sure if JB Weld could handle the thermal cycling though, it'll be pretty hot in there.
I wonder if thoroughly cleaning it with brake cleaner, then painting it with a heavy coat of high temperature BBQ/header paint might at least stop any future degradation.
Yes, my thoughts are similar, to at least stop the corrosion.
Had the same thought lol
I agree 100%! You cast a whole new block.
You should look into doing dry ice blasting for the entire underneath!! It’s way cleaner and does a great job.
The Ice guys charge a ton for their process. Imagine if some guy had a mobile unit so that the zillion
in- progress projects could get a bit cleaner during the project.
Clean it and paint it with an ablative zinc paint. If it breaks get it glass beaded and welded. You could probably have it reamed and sleeved (coat a tight fighting tube with epoxy and press it into the passage) and drill out the connecting oil passages
I was thinking J B weld , Worked 4 me on transmission line .
something like is what i was imagine before seeing it ... i think it can work if the damage is not terrible
I was thinking something similar
@@matthewcalifana488 I would typically go for araldite 2014 but same concept
@@matthewcalifana488 I heard Belzona is a good replacement for JB Weld.
I would consider using block fill to just fill in the valley up to just over the top of the oil passage. Block fill is designed to withstand a lot more pressure than this engine will ever see and would seal off the block from any outside material. Once cured the block fill would restore and increase any strength loss the engine block might have experienced. Just a thought.
LS conversion. would get things sorted. I would not keep that engine in there. make it run good then.
I was thinking something similar. Like clean the rusty parts and then cover it with new aluminium, let it cure. But your idea is probably more future proof.
Dry ice blaster would work great to clean things back to new under the car and in the engine compartment.
Emissions stuff from the 70s and 80s always fun and different. Why not paint the valley with JB weld. Never have a problem with corrosion when it's epoxy coated.
I'm 77. I've said every word you said many times over. But you still kept it civil. Great channel and keep up the good work. When I started wrenching, all you had to be able to do was set points and valves, and you were golden.
I agree with Mike. That level of corrosion is quite normal. I’ve seen plenty worse. My DeLorean engine was similar to that and by now most are likely like that. Doing a great job!
The engine valley is fine brother, i think the biggest thing is keeping all that junk out of that valley. Like any other kind of metal, wet dirt is really great at deteriorating it. I'd probably spray it with some fluid film at the very least to try and protect the aluminum for as long as possible. Anyway shes gonna be one nice set of wheels to enjoy yourself in.
Coolant on your hair? Does the DeLorean know you might become a hot-head?
Pro tip - forget about that metal pipe in the valley (not the Y pipe, the foot long one leading to the heater core). Just run a long silicone or rubber heater hose out of the valley. Eliminates 2 seams that could leak that are impossible to get to without removing the manifold again.
Good idea.
Dry ice blast, Cerakote, and as an additional safety measure add an easy to access zinc electrode from a boating supply store for sacrificial anode to absorb ions that you can routinely clean and replace to prevent any further corrosion. That should last well enough to prevent any further degradation.
Personally, on the valley issue, I would have definitely tried to clean it better to get the dirt off, not necessarily blend out any damage, just get as much of the dirt off as possible, then applied alodine and a primer, then corban 35.
^^^ This.
After a much better mechanical cleaning follow-up with Alumprep before alodine.
I think this and it may sound kinda junky but put some jb weld on it, at least that will keep any more dirt off the oil passage
I'd be careful with any coatings on the block. I spent probably 15 hours cleaning the block on a DeLorean and sealed it according to a forum post and the first time I had to remove the intake again, there was unavoidable fuel spills into the valley and all of the coating came right off. I did have a much much worse block than this one and anticipate having to replace it at some point so I used an aluminum epoxy on the worst looking bits and that is probably better than any coating. About hard as the other aluminum and really well bonded. Pointless? Maybe, but it was my friend's car and he wanted to experiment instead of proactively replacing the block.
Aluminium "Cancer" is worse than rust. It snakes its way into the ali and makes it friable.
Idk if you've already ordered them, but I highly suggest replacing the fuel injector lines. Also, if the engine goes, a common swap is the Eagle 3.0L PRV engine. Decent bit more power and easier to work on. Do the manual as well at the same time.
wonder how easy it would be to get a B280E from europe in there. keep it PRV for a nice bump to 170hp, and maybe some renautl 25 turbo manifolds from france and turbo that
You can re-anneal those copper washers. Just heat them until they just start to glow. Let them cool and clean with fine sand paper. Good to go. Annealing all copper seals was standard procedure on submarines.
Have you considered flooding the valley with high temp epoxy? The liquid epoxy would fill in all of the voids and be held in by them. And it'll resist heat while sealing it off from further damage, and prevent further deterioration? Not JB Weld, actual high temp epoxy. As long as the surface is prepped properly it would be an effective preventative. Just a thought to help that original engine last long into THE FUTURE!!!!
I once repaired the entire inside of a pot metal thermostat housing with JB Weld, and as far as I know, it's still going!
JB weld is stable up to 500 degrees F, The engine valley should never get close to that hot.
I have ported aluminum intakes and added aluminum to the outside to keep thickness. Tig welding works better but I only have used mig
Just depends on the normal operating temp of that surface. And as another person commented would be good to surgically clean and then alodine that aluminum.
I was thinking that. Something strong but still have some flex to it so it won't crack or seperate with the constant heat cycles. Just flood it on and let it fill in everything. If it was further gone or already starting to leak if it was mine I would try it. Not much to lose. Even in the shape it's in I would consider something like it that protects what he has left from getting worse as it seems under the best conditions it's a place where dirt and chemicals like to build up and not easy to clean. Having basically a clay shield over it the last 30 something years might have caused the damage you see but prevented far worse from getting to it.
I personally think you should clean the valley as best as you can, then coat it in Alodine.
I'd go as far as reinforcing all of the deeper pockets with aluminium weld, coat the whole thing in Alodine, then fill up the valley with JB-Weld to also make it slanted towards the front, so it could drip out of the valley, if there would be any more leaks.
that smoke is just the engine puking out the last of the crap that built up in the engine over those 30 years of sitting
@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue I didn't say anything about smoke tho.
Really shocked that you didn’t cover the intake ports before more tear down 😉
Clean the valley, use JB weld or similar epoxy to fill concerning areas. Lastly, apply a good engine paint to the valley to inhibit future corrosion.
I've used this method with outstanding results. Cleaning that valley I'd use a Dremel Tool with the extension shaft and a cup style wire brush, it's easy to control the pressure without gouging any more holes, gotta use a little finesse while doing this, and all the while using your shop vacuum sucking up any accumulated debris. Then follow up sealing up the valley with the many suggested materials from your viewers. BUT no more poking around in there with screwdrivers and other sharp metal tools!
So agree with your plan to go ahead and pressure wash the entire underside. It's the closest you can get to a full restoration without dismantling the entire car! Absolutely loving watching your progress!
NO! get rid of that pile of shit motor!!!
You should walnut blast the valley to clean up as much of the corrosion as possible, then put some anti-corrosion coating (Alodine?) and then fill the valley up to the webbing with JB Weld epoxy.
I totally agree with your thoughts. Seems to be a no brainier. Why did the experts not suggest this?
i concur, but suggest you look at products from Chesterton they offer epoxy metal putty which has alluminum particles that aid expansion contraction eqaulity ,which is what you required- eqaul exspanion is critical to maintain seal
Hire a. Welder and reinforced the valley.
You could very well burn a hole through that corrosion, also having no idea how thick it is. Probably not a good idea at this point…
i thought the same thing
What a great project. As always your optimism, determination and knowledge make these huge projects possible. It’s encouragement to everyone watching.
Every episode ends, almost as a cliffhanger! I so am looking forward to the next one! Great series, Alex!
Hijacking this comment to say you should swap in a supercharged 3800. bulletproof v6 thats not nearly as gutless
Looks like a prime candidate for treating with Devcon, give them a call I’ll guarantee they have a coating that will seal all that up and will also put some structural strength back into it.
Very interesting video, but I was scared some rust and crap might get into the intake ports. Best to cover those up when cleaning next to them.
For the AC you don't need to change to 134, just get the duracool or 12a refrigerant with an adapter for the fill connection. Don't have to change anything in the system. Works better than 134. My 71 buick riviera still had pressure in the original system so I was able to recharge and it works great.
I think that block can live for a long time. I would attack the corrosion on top and seal it with some anodizing coat or epoxy. Once sealed by epoxy it should not further detoriate; so not leaks today will mean no leaks for a long time. As usual you guys are doing a great job, thanks for the video!
May be worthwhile having a look into dry ice media blasting to clean it up properly, as for the block. I'd honestly have a go at either tig welding more material on top or brazing will be a good alternative to scrapping the block.
It’s crazy how glued to this series I am. I have no interest in deloreans but I love cars and the whole process you are going through
This writer agrees with your View.
Hey Alex, just a suggestion. Why you don’t use a dry ice machine and clean the underneath properly, no mess.? Pressure washer will do it yes but the results will not be the same plus the entire process and transformation is wonderful. 💪🏻👍🏻
I'm so pleased there are people on this planet who like doing this stuff. It looks like he'll on earth to me. By 5 minutes in I would have stripped something and lost something else. I would then not have the correct tool for something and then forget what went where. God bless you.
Man, this is awesome. I am so glad you are doing it right. It is a complete thrill when I hear - "Yup, that's getting replaced and yup that too and yeah we need to clean this all up"! Then I hear " I am going blast this bottom and powder coat this and replace this over hear"! This the best restoration video ever! Thx for sharing! One other note - wise to go ahead and order the engine - it's not if the engine will fail - it's going to fail!
The sensor that you find with the vaccum lines to the coolant pipe is for cold start high idle. They are connected to a diaphram valve.
In the interest of preserving such an iconic car, I would disassemble the entire engine and everything that goes with it.
I would clean the block, perhaps by dry ice blasting, and then look for a suitable coating such as Alodin (which is not really a coating but more of an etchant) as someone has already mentioned. This car deserves it!
I can’t believe you didn’t protect those open ports when you were digging and flipping dirt in the valley.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who winced seeing that
Oof I know. I was wincing while the cut off wheel sparks shot up around the open manifold ports. 😬
First thing l thought, bit amateur hour to be honest.
Came here for these comments, I was horrified watching the grinder sparks going everywhere with the ports open and the vacuum poking around!
If Alex is thinking of replacing the engine then it doesn't matter
One of the best series to date! I opt for running the engine till it dies and doing some sort of engine swap. You can’t have this being one of the slowest vehicles in your fleet.
I agree. A DeLorean custom engine would be cool.
I disagree. The value of this car is not in how fast it will go. It will _never_ be a fast car. It's value is the original condition it is in. An engine swap will instantly cut the resale value in half.
just keep the old engine if he ever decides to sell, he said he is keeping it forever so who cares about resale, Enjoy the car Alex!@@douglasburnside
Dude you are a legend. Love this channel love your work. You can even feel the emotion through the screen. Incredible, watch every Saturday for the past year pissed I didn’t find ya sooner!
The only bad thing about these videos is they end! Seriously I could watch you work on this car all damn day. 3 hour videos plz!
I've used POR15 Engine Enamel on snowmobile engines to keep them from deteriorating. 10 years with no issues. Good up to 350F. Lots of salty roads in IL where I would ride my snowmobiles. Cheap at $32.00 and would cover an entire small engine.
I'm loving these DeLorean restoration videos. Great Job Alex! 👍
This has to be the greatest Delorean Restoration series on UA-cam ever!!!!!!!!! You are doing a fantastic job on this car. I really can see this Delorean worth six figures easy when your completed. 😎🇨🇦
Ask a radiator rebuild company about liquid metal. I had similar corrosion on a 1940s tank radiator - they were able to build up the metal and replace some of the lost material. It would probably work for the valley there as well.
You should definitely check out dry ice blasting. It makes literally everything look brand new.
Regarding the valley of death. I would coat it with something. Perhaps epoxy. I think it would fill in the rough areas, seal and protect it from future corrosion. I've used it for restoring old motorcycle-tanks. Also I notice someone suggested Alodine. I'm not familiar with it, but I would look into it as well. Fun videos. Thx. Barry :-)
Wouldn’t it potentially be better to dry ice blast the underside of the car ? Looking better every time I see it. ❤
That would be real cool. Stay tuned!
Sounds amazing. My nerdy kind of treatment/show of love.🤓
The viewing of REAL work in a step by step jurney of discovery is pritty special. Thanks.
Wonder if it would work to just pour the whole valley full of some super strong epoxy so that it will seal? There is also corrosion inhibitors in the airplane world that might keep what is there and make sure it doesn’t get worse. Alodine might be a good option.
You should look into doing “cold spray aluminum” for that engine block, I think this is a good application.
Owned a 1976 Volkswagen Scirocco for 18 years, having tracked down and modified everything on the car including the CIS or Constant Injection System had a huge experience with learning everything I could about CIS, was used on alot of VW's Porsche and Audi from the early 70s through the 1980's when it works correctly, it can deliver breath taking performance and can support Turbo charging as well.
I would clean the thing as thoroughly as possible and use JB weld epoxy, I would apply a coat to all the pitting then use a high temp epoxy paint to apply a protective coating to everything except were there are threads.
If you replace the engine, please dont put in another delorean engine. Its a car ahead of its time, it deserves an engine from current time
Go EV!
I'm not a DeLorean fan, but I am a fan of your workmanship and how your so detailed oriented that's why I watch. My love is the 87 GN ,I'm a first owner of one .
For the a/c system . It uses r12, if you convert to 134a, your gonna have to install an extra fan to keep it cooler with a temp activated switch. Because ure going from basicly mineral oil to gas. It has a diffrent way to exchange heat. For the engin top end, i would just leave it, engines that old look that way. But is always a good practice to have a extra engine aroung if there is a mishap in the future. Just rebuild the new new doner engine and wrap it with plastic and set it aside.
kind of new here but i respect the amount of work that goes in to your videos.. thank you sir!
Why don’t you coat the valley with some type of sealant and maybe fill with an epoxy or silicone to prevent further deterioration.
We use a product called Alodine that attaches to aluminum and acts like an anodized coating.
Good luck, great content!!!!
Tim
Old school fix is in order. Us old timers fixed cracks in blocks with a product called liquid glass in the day. I am sure they have even better stuff now. Just clean it as best you can (cleaner the better), and pour it in. Seal the corrosion with a barrier and stop it from worsening. You will have a nice layer of protection on top. This fix lasted for many years on an already cracked block. Should last forever on one that isn't leaking yet. It's like POR-15 for your engine!
The vacuum lines going to the coolant manifold is part of a switch that opens/closes a vacuum line based on the engine temperature. They were commonly used for emissions stuff on the early Motronic cars.
This one may have limited vacuum advance on the distributor until the car warmed up, hence the D marking.
What would you guys do? Run it until it blows up, replace the engine or ????
Replace with original motor
Blow it up then replace!
I would run until it goes bad
Go see Mr Wynne for a NOS replacement / rebuild.
LS swap with a Porsche transmission. Or EV and do all lighting with Led and panels with screens, so you came back to the future it
They used to have carbs, 1 quadruple for the 4 front cylinders and 1 double for the 2 back cylinders.
The engine is the one from the Alpine A 310 V6, One of the uses of the PRV (Peugeot - Renault - Volvo V6).
Those carbs were a pain in the but to tune.
Might want to use a dry ice blaster to clean the valley. Also the rest of the engine, while you're at it. Would look close to new with minimal erosion. 😉
Yes . Excellent advice
Really excited for more restoration footage! Continued success to you!
That three pipe vacuum valve on the coolant hose is a wax operated two way vacuum switch , probably part of the warm up regulator system on what looks like K jetronic injection
Have you considered to fill the Valley of Death with something like Devcon or similar ?? That would add years to the life I'm sure ;). Other option could be flame sprayed or arc sprayed aluminium.
💯, he doesn’t even consider any potential measures to extend the life of the block, I thought of a couple of epoxy type coatings, Devon, JB weld, AW Chesterton also may have some suitable products.
I totally believe you're going to have this done well before Halloween. You're WAY too in love with this project and it's awesome to watch! Can't wait to see this on whatever spooky display you come up with!
You could lay down something like jbweld or high temp paint acrose the vally and add your own drain hose to reduce further contact and pooling on the aluminum block
I used to repair/rebuild air valves for semi trucks as a business. All of my customers preferred my valves over factory, not only for price but they lasted longer. Because we painted them with a good epoxy paint. These things hung out in all of the elements and a good coat of paint for protection was key. Clean up the block real good, shoot it with a good coat of paint and make sure you run it long enough to dry itself after getting wet. You should be good honestly.
I think, you need to search for a company that does "laser deposition welding". After proper research, and practicing on a ruined delorean part, they could laser weld layers on your "valley of death" out of metal powder or metal wire. It might be very well possible, but probably the most expensive approach, and an adventure for itself, i guess.
I was thinking of those old machines that were basically a paint gun filled with metal powder hooked to a blow torch, this is an even better idea, less "over spray"
Spray Welding......!
You should clean the aluminum in the valley really well and fill it with a good quality epoxy. Consider chemical cleaning and epoxy primer first, and something like 3M DP-420. It will outlast the engine. I've used it to repair engine blocks in the past and worked great.
Its astonishing to see how they improvised when they build the car. The rubber mats held with zip ties - hilarious.
The thing is, it lasted. I bet anything made today won’t be around after 40 years.
@@mattus1gig Well, in general, cars from the 80s and earlier were pretty terrible compared to those today. The DeLorian is a exception because it is partly made of stainless steel - and was parked in a shed for over 30 years.
Could you clean it really well and use some sort of epoxy to seal and protect that area? Also, an LS swap in these are pretty cool!
Agreed, kind of like what the Honda guys use to fill around the outside of the cylinder walls
I would use Devcon F aluminum epoxy. It pours thick and will seal and protect that aluminum underneath and once it sets, it's basically solid aluminum.
LS will wreck that transaxle.
Ls would defeat the point no
I would also fill the valley with hardblok or jbweld to prevent further corrosion and keep things from cracking
One step at a time. Not having worked on a DeLorean or the PRV V6, you seem to be doing one helluva job on it. Restorations are always full of surprises, with the necessity to have deep pockets.
I think your idea of getting a "new" motor makes sense.
Good Luck, and I'm enjoying this series (as I do with each one).
LS swap time
I have weighed the pros and cons of your statement and I have found no cons sir. You win
That’s what I’m saying
Get a Peugeot 24 valve V6. Should fit right in.
I don't know what GM used on some automatic transmission cases in the late '70s, but it looked like a grey epoxy, about 1/4 inch thick, it was used to treat a leaky case, and I came that way from the factory. That hard epoxy would fill any pores in the aluminum and it was a self-leveling type.
Pour a sheet of hot lead on it like they do for chimneys. It would be an insulator and add thickness and fill in the pores. Just a thought. Otherwise. Have a welder that specializes in aluminum look at it and get his opinion. He might have options that others aren't aware of.
Has anyone missed this but 1M subscribers, WELL DONE Alex.
Thanks!!
@@LegitStreetCarsgo to eastwood and pick up some glyptal red. Its a coating you brush on and it will seal the aluminum and add some stability to it, not to mention it will make it a burnt red color and shiny smooth. They use it to coat inside heads to make the oil move without any restrictions.
I swa one of these just a while ago in my home town, followed it for a short distance. Literally everyone stopped, pointed and waved at the guy. So cool, wouldn't want to own one, but still very cool.
Here are all the other DeLorean videos in one place! Abandoned Delorean Rescue!: ua-cam.com/play/PLCPhBTbpYs4IyNoPoSMYDRQZFmq5T6Jb2.html
Awesome
When trying to show height in video or photo, use a light source not concurrent with the lens, ie, at an angle to the camera. If using video, move the light to accentuate the valleys.
I feel like your DeLorean is an ACTUAL time machine.... because you took us back in time and this car should be good for many years into the future.
I used to work at a shop where we took in deloreans and got them running up in mass , I didn’t enjoy it then and watching you do it I don’t think I would enjoy it now either. I am having fun watching you go through everything I did with these things though.
1000hp DeLorean?😂
The outtakes at the end are a great adddition to the videos!
The aluminum valley problem is caused by corrosion from the outside on the top surface. I think some sort of coating, maybe an epoxy sealer for aluminum, would give some added protection from outside elements. Maybe JB Weld has something that might work. I would definitely clean it up more and use some kind of coating.
I've used JBWeld on motorcycle engines and it still holds 25 years later.
Alex i did plumbing for 8 years and learned that it was much easier to use a nut runner to use on hose clamp nuts then a screwdriver.
My thoughts on a "repair" walnut blast the casting, then pour a heat resistant 2 part epoxy in to the casting waffle pattern. may be use an adhesion promoter first. its not gonna necessarily make it stronger, but its gonna prevent any further corrosion.
Got to agree with some of the comments on here, clean up the aluminium then over coat the valley area with any of numerous epoxy compounds like JB or Devcon.
Clean it and use Alvin's lab metal. Use lab metal thinner to reduce it and brush it on. Stuff is amazing. Used it to repair worn through cast iron industrial gear box. Held up to oil pressure for at least 15 years and going.
Use Sprayway glass cleaner on the Valley. It will liquify the remaining crusty dried coolant and you can then rinse it out or vacuum it. It will prevent further corrosion.
I'd suggest coating it in a marine epoxy paint. Stuff is self levelling, supposed to resist water/humidity intrusion, and should help keep the block from corroding further.
You should have covered the Valley of death (upper engine block) with solder (it covers evrything and prevent's future rust) after that is colled down , painted with zinc can-spray , and a protective ruber(like the soundproof you used inside or fiberglass) - Then remount evrything. They use solder/welding to fix broken iron on old engine-blocks on vintage cars here in Europe.(they even use solder on futureproof-ing the body floor of the chassis on vintage cars.)
I would clean the valley and pour in a high temp expoxy and fill up the casting trays and holes and install a diy made metal plate over top and bolt into the block with a gasket and paint a rust inhibitor over top and just run it. For an old car like this its never gonna matter if its a weekender, if it was a daily i would consider a spare engine only after running it into the ground.
you could try taking a page out of the M156 manifold repair book and put a good layer of high heat epoxy weld over all of the valley? Would help provide some structure and protection for the time being...
Probably a good idea to cover your intake. Runners with some tape while doing something like this.
I agree to clean the valley real well, maybe put jb weld in the divots and seal it real well.
In Australia in the late 80s my Dads Volvo 264 gle had the 'valley of death' explode.
I remember this huge cloud of oil and coolant vapour just envelope the car as we were driving.
His car was only about 10yrs old. 🇦🇺
Clean that valley even better, then acid etch it so its super clean bare metal, and then skim coat it in JB weld, paying special attention to getting all the very pitted areas well filled in. Once dried you could sand and paint which would the seal the entire valley against further exposure to standing moisture.
You may want to explore Evans Waterless Coolant. It may solve all your corrosion issues or at least stop any additional corrosion.
Chem clean and fill the valley with aluminium dust and epoxy this bonding will reinforce the area and prevent further corrosion.